Support NeoGAF

[clav]

Thanks guys, I have a .edu address, is that all I need?

For the free copy, you will need to contact the school's administrator who manages the MSDNAA account licenses for your particular school. From there, you will be given account credentials to access Microsoft's website that will give you a product key and ISO to download.

As for the paid copy, all you need is a .edu address. Be sure to select "Download only" copy for the cheaper price. Kind of a shame the $30 promotion wasn't kept.

Because this is the upgrade copy, you will be required to do either of the following of your choice after the full installation:

1. Edit registry to activate.
2. Double install to activate.

If you choose to edit the registry, you'll need to do the following: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_use_your_windows_7_upgrade_disk_fresh_pc?page=0,1

If you choose to double install, just insert the upgrade DVD again and run the installer from Windows as an "Upgrade."

 

[Branson]

For the free copy, you will need to contact the school's administrator who manages the MSDNAA account licenses for your particular school. From there, you will be given account credentials to access Microsoft's website that will give you a product key and ISO to download.

As for the paid copy, all you need is a .edu address.

Because this is the upgrade copy, you will be required to do either of the following of your choice after the full installation:

1. Edit registry to activate.
2. Double install to activate.

If you choose to edit the registry, you'll need to do the following: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_use_your_windows_7_upgrade_disk_fresh_pc?page=0,1

If you choose to double install, just insert the upgrade DVD again and run the installer from Windows as an "Upgrade."

Alright thanks, my new pc parts come here monday so thats when I'm going to get it all installed.

 

[Hero_of_the_Day]

For the free copy, you will need to contact the school's administrator who manages the MSDNAA account licenses for your particular school. From there, you will be given account credentials to access Microsoft's website that will give you a product key and ISO to download.

As for the paid copy, all you need is a .edu address. Be sure to select "Download only" copy for the cheaper price. Kind of a shame the $30 promotion wasn't kept.

Because this is the upgrade copy, you will be required to do either of the following of your choice after the full installation:

1. Edit registry to activate.
2. Double install to activate.

If you choose to edit the registry, you'll need to do the following: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_use_your_windows_7_upgrade_disk_fresh_pc?page=0,1

If you choose to double install, just insert the upgrade DVD again and run the installer from Windows as an "Upgrade."

It will also just ask you to put in a disk right? Like you can do a clean install with the upgrade disk and it will just ask you to put in an old version at one point to verify, right? So if you have a copy of 98 or XP around, you can just pop it in for two seconds and be good to go.

 

[catapult37]

You should attempt to overclock it at a lower multiplier. Try 4.0 instead at a lower voltage and see if it will boot.

Following your advice, I was able to step it up to 4.4. Which is not bad. But 4.5+ either fails to boot or crashes when Windows loads. What could cause my machine (which did run consistently for months at 4.7) to suddenly behave this way?

 

[mhayze]

I have an i7 960 processor that I got a WHILE back for really cheap. I was thinking of building a PC either with that or a brand new i7 processor.

Should I sell this one and get an i7 2500k/2600k or should I just keep it and build a PC with this processor? Also should I just build a PC with this processor and then wait until the newer i7s come out?

My budget is about $700-$1000 give or take a few hundred. I'm looking to play most games as high as possible @ 1080p with AA. I don't need advanced motherboard features that I probably won't ever use, but I'd like a good motherboard regardless. I have an Antec Sonata 3 case I could use since it comes with a 500 (or is it 550?) watt power supply (if that is sufficient). Just looking to finally retire my e8400 and 8800GT that I built in early 2008.

Thanks for all help given.

If you're going to buy a motherboard, that's a tough call - if you already own an LGA 1366 mobo that will run an i7 960, they are pretty nice with the extra memory slots (IMHO). The problem is that both are almost obsolete now as far as new purchases go (not to say that either is 'obsolete' for current owners), with Sandy Bridge E and Ivy Bridge replacements, respectively. Maybe if you can get a cheap, good used 1366 mobo from a reputable seller like on hardforum or ebay, that may be an option, otherwise for a mid / low end price, I would probably sell the 960 and go Sandy Bridge or wait for the Ivy Bridge processors.

 

[Branson]

Ok so I download this windows and put it on a disk right? Put the disk in once I get my pc all set up and ready to install windows?

 

[clav]

Ok so I download this windows and put it on a disk right? Put the disk in once I get my pc all set up and ready to install windows?

You'll have to describe the copy you receive as I know when the discount program started, Windows handed out the DVD in files, and you had to recreate the disk.

I think Microsoft distributes the copies now as ISOs, which does make the process easier.

----------------

If it's an ISO file, then you can use this tool to help you put it on a blank DVD or 4GB (or larger) USB Stick.

http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool

After you made the disk, yes you put it in the computer to setup Windows.

It will also just ask you to put in a disk right? Like you can do a clean install with the upgrade disk and it will just ask you to put in an old version at one point to verify, right? So if you have a copy of 98 or XP around, you can just pop it in for two seconds and be good to go.

No more verification as I think that was the thing of the past with Windows 98/2000/ME/XP upgrade installations. When you boot the disk up from DVD on cold boot, the "Upgrade" option will be gone. You can only upgrade from a Vista or 7 environment.

Otherwise, no matter what Windows Vista or 7 disk you own, all of them can full install any version of Windows Vista/7.

 

[Hawk269]

I only do low to medium gaming on machine, as in, I'd rather play console with my 65" tv...,but with this new build I could hook it up to my TV as well. Hmm. Time to do somet thinking in the graphics department.

The best thing I did was hook up my new rig to my 55" Sony 3d TV. With a wireless keyboard and moust, plus a 360 controller for the PC, it is like gaming on consoles in the future!!! Nothing beats Witcher 2 at 60fps in 1080p with the highest AA and all the fancy settings on a big screen TV playing from a comfy sofa with Dolby Digital blasting from my Entertainment system!

If you have the means to do it, do it!

 

[Branson]

You'll have to describe the copy you receive as I know when the discount program started, Windows handed out the DVD in files, and you had to recreate the disk.

I think Microsoft distributes the copies now as ISOs, which does make the process easier.

----------------

If it's an ISO file, then you can use this tool to help you put it on a blank DVD or 4GB (or larger) USB Stick.

http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/html/pbPage.Help_Win7_usbdvd_dwnTool

After you made the disk, yes you put it in the computer to setup Windows





No more verification as I think that was the thing of the past with Windows 98/2000/ME/XP upgrade installations. When you boot the disk up from DVD on cold boot, the "Upgrade" option will be gone. You can only upgrade from a Vista or 7 environment.

Otherwise, no matter what Windows Vista or 7 disk you own, all of them can full install any version of Windows Vista/7.

I'm currently downloading the 3.1 gb ISO. I have a Vista boot disk could I just use that and install Vista then upgrade that to windows 7 on the bare SSD drive?


edit 2. I guess i could do the double install. I dont really know how to do that but it seems simple...

 

[Smokey]

Just wanna chime in here and say that the Seasonic platinum 1000w PSU has been great to me so far. No coil whine. No crashes or anything with my CPU and GPU OC'd. Right now I just have the motherboard OC the 2600k for me 4.4ghz, but eventually I need to do it on my own and see where it can get me. After my experience with my P8P67 Pro I kind of feel like don't touch what ain't broke, so who knows when I'll get around to doing that.

Overall feels good to just play PC games again (i.e. Battlefield 3). You don't realize how much you miss the performance of PC games compared to the consoles until it's gone.

 

[Deus Ex Machina]

Sanwa's Mini-Keyboard with Gamepad

Japanese company Sanwa Supply probably wondered that if mini-keyboards are going to resemble those from smartphones and PDAs, why make them boxy, why not curvy and ergonomic. It came up with the SKB-WL16BK, a wireless mini-keyboard with a 2-axis joystick that can double up as a tracking device. It would make for a nice input-device for HTPCs, on which human-interaction is far limited compared to on desktop PCs.

The SKB-WL16BK gives you a QWERTY keypad with 76 keys, multimedia keys, a D-pad that doubles up as the keyboard's arrow keys, a 2-axis thumb-stick, and two triggers that double up as left-right clicks. The main unit measures D145 x W90 x H28 mm , weighing 168 g (including two AA batteries). It communicates to the PC over 2.4 GHz radio band. On sale, the SKB-WL16BK from Sanwa Supply is priced at 13,440 JPY (about US $174.3).

http://translate.google.com/transla...ml&hl=en&safe=off&biw=1920&bih=888&prmd=imvns

 

[dani_dc]

For the free copy, you will need to contact the school's administrator who manages the MSDNAA account licenses for your particular school. From there, you will be given account credentials to access Microsoft's website that will give you a product key and ISO to download.

As for the paid copy, all you need is a .edu address. Be sure to select "Download only" copy for the cheaper price. Kind of a shame the $30 promotion wasn't kept.

Because this is the upgrade copy, you will be required to do either of the following of your choice after the full installation:

1. Edit registry to activate.
2. Double install to activate.

If you choose to edit the registry, you'll need to do the following: http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_use_your_windows_7_upgrade_disk_fresh_pc?page=0,1

If you choose to double install, just insert the upgrade DVD again and run the installer from Windows as an "Upgrade."

I simply did a clean install and manually activated it after the install was done instead of during it.

Basically Option one mentioned there.

 

[Piercedveil]

You guys ever use TigerDirect? They have free shipping on so much stuff and are beating NewEgg's prices on the stuff I'm looking at.

 

[larvi]

You guys ever use TigerDirect? They have free shipping on so much stuff and are beating NewEgg's prices on the stuff I'm looking at.

Yep, they've been around since mail order days and I've used them for quite a few things over the years and never had an issue. That's who bought out Circuit city as well.

 

[Hazaro]

You guys ever use TigerDirect? They have free shipping on so much stuff and are beating NewEgg's prices on the stuff I'm looking at.

Twice. Both times horrible experiences with financial verification, then delayed shipment.
I know their customer service is poor as well. I should not have to get transferred 4 times and wait 2 hours on the phone.

 

[Tabris]

Hey guys, I got a quick question and I'm not sure if this thread is for it. The OP told me to post in the Race Your PC Thread but that seems to be more of a brag / experienced thread and only for serious builds and I'm a novice to this with a cheap build. I need to know what the recommended settings would be for the following setup for overclocking it slightly on stock cooling (2 system fans and stock heatsink/fan for CPU)

CPU: AMD A6-3500 APU W/ AMD Radeon 65XX HD GFX Triple Core Processor Socket FM1 2.1GHZ 3MB 65W Retail Box $89.99
Memory: Kingston HyperX KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 XMP Dual Channel Memory Kit $43.49
Motherboard: Gigabyte A75M-UD2H mATX AMD FM1 A75 2PCI-E16 1PCI-E1 1PCI DDR3 HDMI DVI SATA3 USB 3.0 $94.99
Hard Drive: Kingston SSDNow V200 64GB 2.5IN SATA3 Solid State Disk Flash Drive $83.99
Power Supply: Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus 500W ATX 12V V2.3 Silent Power Supply 20/24PIN 120MM $44.99

The motherboard is apparently very good at overclocking and all I really want to get out of it is getting my memory FSB from 1333mhz the MB defaults at to the 1600mhz the memory runs at by default but I have no clue what voltages or CPU FSB to set it to and whether I need to adjust any of the APU settings either after that.

If anyone has any kind of advice, it would be much appreciated. Even if it's just directing me to a website that explains what to set these settings to for this motherboard (I could not find a "recommended overclocking settings" for this motherboard anywhere on google)

 

[clav]

You guys ever use TigerDirect? They have free shipping on so much stuff and are beating NewEgg's prices on the stuff I'm looking at.

Not often. Their warehouse is in Illinois, so they're kinda like a Newegg of the Midwest with slightly below customer service.

I think it's good enough to use.

 

[Hazaro]

If anyone has any kind of advice, it would be much appreciated. Even if it's just directing me to a website that explains what to set these settings to for this motherboard (I could not find a "recommended overclocking settings" for this motherboard anywhere on google)

You'd get more specific help in the bench thread since more people are more familiar there.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...ws/45050-amd-a6-3650-llano-apu-review-22.html

Something like that, use 1.40V or below imo, get 3.2+ out of it, search A6 or A4 or A8 overclocking.

Not often. Their warehouse is in Illinois, so they're kinda like a Newegg of the Midwest with slightly below customer service.

I think it's good enough to use.

If you want something faster and you don't want to pay state tax up front yeah. They will ship you a product and you can buy it from them. Just make sure they have it in stock. iirc they can list some OOS things that are coming in 1-4 weeks as in stock.

 

[Gunmonkey36]

Just got a bunch of Amazon credit for trading in my textbooks for the last two semesters.

Looking to put the final touch on my PC by picking up a SSD(For now..... /cry Why am I such a PC upgrade addict?).

Is the crucial m4 still the go to for SSD's?

 

[Deus Ex Machina]

You guys ever use TigerDirect? They have free shipping on so much stuff and are beating NewEgg's prices on the stuff I'm looking at.

They sent me a used(not working) 4890 GPU a few years back.. It was clearly used, the seal was broken on the box. I hadn't been back to their website since.

 

[butanebob]

So my PC has been working beautifully, it's only about a year old. But today i turned it off for about half an hour and then when i went to turn it back on it won't start at all. The mobo is an asus p8p67 pro. The green power light is on but it just will not start. I've tried re seating everything and reconnected all the power cables etc. Also tried removing the battery and clearing the cmos with the jumper switch thing.

Anyone have any ideas? I don't get why it was working perfectly and all i did was shut it down for a bit while i did some cleaning. :\

 

[Quicksilver4648]

So my PC has been working beautifully, it's only about a year old. But today i turned it off for about half an hour and then when i went to turn it back on it won't start at all. The mobo is an asus p8p67 pro. The green power light is on but it just will not start. I've tried re seating everything and reconnected all the power cables etc. Also tried removing the battery and clearing the cmos with the jumper switch thing.

Anyone have any ideas? I don't get why it was working perfectly and all i did was shut it down for a bit while i did some cleaning. :\

Okay, first off I am not an expert in troubleshooting issues like this, but I also have an Asus P8P67 Pro. When you say "The green power light is on but it just will not start." I assume you mean you don't even get BIOS, or UEFI. I ask this because I recently had an issue but it turned out to be my hard drive dieing. Have you recently updated the firmware? Have you ever updated the firmware? Does the motherboard act like it is doing everything but you simply can't see anything? Are there any bright lights flashing (on the board) that seem alarming? Have you ruled out it isn't a GPU (or other hardware) problem by swapping out parts?

 

[clav]

Has anyone on GAF had a CX430 V2 Power Supply fail on them? Please PM me.
I don't have access to the numbers it's sold, but I'm thinking of at least putting up an alternative lower budget PSU in the $45-50 range no rebate. Problem is everything is 'on sale' so we'll see.
Tempted to just go back to the Antec EA380 and make sure people know it needs a power cord.

Or you know, make a non crap 350W PSU for $40. Should not be this hard.

Until it failed on you, possibly.
You'd be taxing it and it's not a good supply at all.

Right choice was to swap it out. Now if it was an Antec EA380W, then yes you could run it just fine.

You could purchase the PC Power and Cooling MKIII power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703034

Rebranded SeaSonic.

Yes, it has a rebate, but it'll be worth it.

So my PC has been working beautifully, it's only about a year old. But today i turned it off for about half an hour and then when i went to turn it back on it won't start at all. The mobo is an asus p8p67 pro. The green power light is on but it just will not start. I've tried re seating everything and reconnected all the power cables etc. Also tried removing the battery and clearing the cmos with the jumper switch thing.

Anyone have any ideas? I don't get why it was working perfectly and all i did was shut it down for a bit while i did some cleaning. :\

Try powering the board by bridging the two power pins together with a flat head screwdriver. The two pins I'm talking about are on the white quick connector that ASUS supplied with the motherboard to help you connect your case's wires to it.

 

[·feist·]

Hey guys, I got a quick question and I'm not sure if this thread is for it. The OP told me to post in the Race Your PC Thread but that seems to be more of a brag / experienced thread and only for serious builds and I'm a novice to this with a cheap build. I need to know what the recommended settings would be for the following setup for overclocking it slightly on stock cooling (2 system fans and stock heatsink/fan for CPU)

CPU: AMD A6-3500 APU W/ AMD Radeon 65XX HD GFX Triple Core Processor Socket FM1 2.1GHZ 3MB 65W Retail Box $89.99
Memory: Kingston HyperX KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 XMP Dual Channel Memory Kit $43.49
Motherboard: Gigabyte A75M-UD2H mATX AMD FM1 A75 2PCI-E16 1PCI-E1 1PCI DDR3 HDMI DVI SATA3 USB 3.0 $94.99
Hard Drive: Kingston SSDNow V200 64GB 2.5IN SATA3 Solid State Disk Flash Drive $83.99
Power Supply: Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus 500W ATX 12V V2.3 Silent Power Supply 20/24PIN 120MM $44.99

The motherboard is apparently very good at overclocking and all I really want to get out of it is getting my memory FSB from 1333mhz the MB defaults at to the 1600mhz the memory runs at by default but I have no clue what voltages or CPU FSB to set it to and whether I need to adjust any of the APU settings either after that.

If anyone has any kind of advice, it would be much appreciated. Even if it's just directing me to a website that explains what to set these settings to for this motherboard (I could not find a "recommended overclocking settings" for this motherboard anywhere on google)

Try these:

Overclocking AMD’s A8-3850 Llano APU [Llano Desktop]

GIGABYTE AMD A55 & A75 OC GUIDE [Llano Desktop]

Optional Link 2 (A75), .PDF Version (A55 & A75), .PDF Backup (A55 & A75)​

 

[Hazaro]

You could purchase the PC Power and Cooling MKIII power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703034

Rebranded SeaSonic.

Yes, it has a rebate, but it'll be worth it.

Good lower end PSUs are tough value when you have $35AR CX430. Bah.
Then I get all ancy it's only 400W, should totally be 550W at the same price!

No fun.

 

[Heppell]

Hey i need some help with my web browser.

Everytime i click to open my browser it automatically closes when it opens.

I really need it to work, does anyone know how to fix it??

 

[Leave_Scars]

Hey, I'm having a problem with Dirt 3 where any time I start a race, the second I start driving the framerate drops into the high teens and doesn't come out of it at all. This isn't a stutter, it literally gets an average of about 16 frames per second for me. I can't think of a single other recent release that does this to me. It's about the only game suggesting to me I might need a new PC... here's my setup...

AMD Athlon II X4 640 Processor 3.0 GHz
4.00 GB RAM
NVIDIA GeForce GTS 450

 

[chaosblade]

Hey, I'm having a problem with Dirt 3 where any time I start a race, the second I start driving the framerate drops into the high teens and doesn't come out of it at all. This isn't a stutter, it literally gets an average of about 16 frames per second for me. I can't think of a single other recent release that does this to me. It's about the only game suggesting to me I might need a new PC... here's my setup...

AMD Athlon II X4 640 Processor 3.0 GHz
4.00 GB RAM
NVIDIA GeForce GTS 450

What settings are you playing on? That's not a very good GPU, you probably need to lower something.

 

[ConstructMe]

Hey i need some help with my web browser.

Everytime i click to open my browser it automatically closes when it opens.

I really need it to work, does anyone know how to fix it??

Wat browser?

 

[The Friendly Monster]

Swap that corsair SSD for a Crucial M4, it should be around €160 and it performs much better. You should perhaps wait until the 7950 is released (31st of Jan supposedly), if its the same price as the 6950 currently is then it's definatly worth the upgrade. What resolution will you be running? I can't answer your other questions, sorry. Also, what site is that? The prices look pretty good.

Cheers, my monitor is 1920*1200, but I guess I'll be gaming at slightly lower res. It will be a hard wait as I am still just using a netbook! Also I have no idea but I doubt a 7950 will be 225 euros. The site is http://www.vibuonline.de. They seem to have the best prices and as far as I can tell they aren't dodgy.

Ok decided I need a computer sooner rather than later, for dev, media, some gaming

Total 807 euros = 670 quid roughly, already have monitor, keyboard, camera, mouse, speakers

How does this look? Also is it worth an extra 85 euros for the 6950 2gb?

I am also hoping to not have to buy Windows 7 again, do you think it's feasible to run the Windows 8 dev build as my main OS?

Am I right in thinking that since the motherboard has toslink optical audio and im going to be plugging into a receiver then there's not much point getting a discrete audio card?

Anyone?

 

[ConstructMe]

Cheers, my monitor is 1920*1200, but I guess I'll be gaming at slightly lower res. It will be a hard wait as I am still just using a netbook! Also I have no idea but I doubt a 7950 will be 225 euros. The site is http://www.vibuonline.de. They seem to have the best prices and as far as I can tell they aren't dodgy.


Anyone?

I would not use win8 as ur default os, unstable and little support for drivers etc.

 

[Leave_Scars]

What settings are you playing on? That's not a very good GPU, you probably need to lower something.

I'll be very honest here... I've gone as far as to lower the resolution to 640 x 480 and I get the EXACT same framerate. I lower every setting I can as much as I can and it gives me the exact same performance.

 

[scogoth]

For Canadian builders,

Bitfenix shinobi window w/ USB 3.0 upgrade kit - $60

Sale ends the 25th
http://www.ncix.com/products/index....150-WWWB-SP&manufacture=BitFenix&promoid=1130

 

[cilonen]

Cheers, my monitor is 1920*1200, but I guess I'll be gaming at slightly lower res. It will be a hard wait as I am still just using a netbook! Also I have no idea but I doubt a 7950 will be 225 euros. The site is http://www.vibuonline.de. They seem to have the best prices and as far as I can tell they aren't dodgy.


Anyone?

I'm going with the same mobo and ram as you, I'm probably going to go for a Crucial M4 SSD after doing quite a bit of reading. Unfortunately that's about as helpful I can be at the mo!

 

[The Friendly Monster]

I'm going with the same mobo and ram as you, I'm probably going to go for a Crucial M4 SSD after doing quite a bit of reading. Unfortunately that's about as helpful I can be at the mo!

Cheers, didn't realise there was such a big discrepancy in performance of SSDs, after doing a bit of research I think I'll go with the Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120GB for 155 euros. Also decided to go for a powercolor hd6950 for 225 euros.

 

[cilonen]

Cheers, didn't realise there was such a big discrepancy in performance of SSDs, after doing a bit of research I think I'll go with the Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 120GB for 155 euros. Also decided to go for a powercolor hd6950 for 225 euros.

Nice. I've not decided what video card to go for yet, I'm starting from scratch and need to get a monitor too so next month's paycheck will go on that, and hopefully by then the video card landscape will be a little clearer. I'm not bothered about waiting for Ivy Bridge chips, so I'm not going to hang around for them but the whole 7900 / Kepler picture is giving me a lot of thought.

 

[Celcius]

How do you guys think the fan noise on one of these would compare to a 7970:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130751&Tpk=classified ultra
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MBP6FK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.behardware.com/articles/...sus-evga-gainward-gigabyte-msi-and-zotac.html

Do you think the fan noise would be bearable without wearing headphones?

 

[clav]

Good lower end PSUs are tough value when you have $35AR CX430. Bah.
Then I get all ancy it's only 400W, should totally be 550W at the same price!

No fun.

I've had some luck with Ultra power supplies, and there are plenty on TigerDirect.

In fact an Ultra power supply has been powering my current desktop for the past four years.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3276575&CatId=106

The thing with Corsair's CX line is I think initially Corsair used high grade components and then did a bait and switch as capacitor whine stated from user reviews is definitely a QC issue in any electronics.

I'd still go with a SeaSonic I mentioned earlier if I were to build a new computer.

How do you guys think the fan noise on one of these would compare to a 7970:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130751&Tpk=classified ultra
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MBP6FK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.behardware.com/articles/...sus-evga-gainward-gigabyte-msi-and-zotac.html

Do you think the fan noise would be bearable without wearing headphones?

Looks like a terrible fan design. That fan definitely runs on high rpm at that size.

I would say not bearable. If fans of that size are to be used on a hot card, there need to be at least two fans to cool that down for silent performance. It's a manufacturer cost design decision to only put one fan on these cards.

Given a choice in design, I'd rather have a manufacturer use a giant single fan to cool that thing down. However, this of course would be at the cost of space in a case.

 

[ClovingWestbrook]

Do any of you have experience with Corsair PSU warranty's? I currently have a 750w Corsair PSU that I purchased about two years ago and it's in my current PC. I would like to exchange it for a new one for my soon to be built PC. The warranty is 5 years but I am wondering how easy it is to get a new one? I know with certain GPU's you can just RMA it back and they will send you a new one no questions asked. Is it the same for the PSU or does the PSU being sent back actually have to not be working?

 

[Like the hat?]

maybe I'll have better luck here in this thread

My laptop seems to have broken, seeing as it will no longer turn on no matter what I do, so I guess I need to replace it. Any suggestions for a windows 7 laptop under $500? Mostly need it for internet and microsoft office. Before I had an Asus G50VT and loved it for the past few years, but now that it's dead I'm screwed. I can't afford anything over $500 really. So what I need:

under $500
not a tablet or desktop or anything
must run windows/windows 7 preferred
must have an SD card slot
must have at least a 160gb HDD

Amazon preferred if it's cheap, because I have Prime. If it's Amazon I can do up to $600.

also is there any way I could find something under $500 with decent dedicated graphics? I would hate for all my Steam games to go to waste. Then again the most intensive stuff I have is Fallout 3 and Portal 2 and such.

Whatever I get will have to last me a few years at minimum.
Help me, GAF.

 

[Smokey]

So my PC has been working beautifully, it's only about a year old. But today i turned it off for about half an hour and then when i went to turn it back on it won't start at all. The mobo is an asus p8p67 pro. The green power light is on but it just will not start. I've tried re seating everything and reconnected all the power cables etc. Also tried removing the battery and clearing the cmos with the jumper switch thing.

Anyone have any ideas? I don't get why it was working perfectly and all i did was shut it down for a bit while i did some cleaning. :\

You might be smokey jr.

I had the same problem and had to constantly flip the switch off/on on my PSU for it to come back on. I eventually had to send mine to ASUS for RMA...

 

[clav]

maybe I'll have better luck here in this thread

My laptop seems to have broken, seeing as it will no longer turn on no matter what I do, so I guess I need to replace it. Any suggestions for a windows 7 laptop under $500? Mostly need it for internet and microsoft office. Before I had an Asus G50VT and loved it for the past few years, but now that it's dead I'm screwed. I can't afford anything over $500 really. So what I need:

under $500
not a tablet or desktop or anything
must run windows/windows 7 preferred
must have an SD card slot
must have at least a 160gb HDD

Amazon preferred if it's cheap, because I have Prime. If it's Amazon I can do up to $600.

also is there any way I could find something under $500 with decent dedicated graphics? I would hate for all my Steam games to go to waste. Then again the most intensive stuff I have is Fallout 3 and Portal 2 and such.

Whatever I get will have to last me a few years at minimum.
Help me, GAF.

Ugh gaming and laptops. Never match in my book.

For those requirements, you're not going to get a graphics card that's better than an Intel HD 3000, which is an integrated graphics card that shares memory with the RAM.

You might as well build a desktop if you want to game. Otherwise you'll need to spend more if you want it portable.

I would go with this then although it'll stretch your $600 budget a bit. At least it'll have a dedicated memory unit (Nvidia GT 520M).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRZATG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Wait for more suggestions as I think other GAFers are more knowledgeable in gaming for laptops. The laptop I mentioned above is what I think fits best.

 

[phinious]

So I just finished my new build.

i5 2500k
Radeon HD 6870
8 gigs ddr3 1600
ASROCK mobo
etc.

Everything is running well, except that when my computer reboots I lose my internet connection. My network connection works, but cannot connect to the internet.

Anyone know what the deal is?

Im running Windows 7

 

[chaosblade]

maybe I'll have better luck here in this thread

My laptop seems to have broken, seeing as it will no longer turn on no matter what I do, so I guess I need to replace it. Any suggestions for a windows 7 laptop under $500? Mostly need it for internet and microsoft office. Before I had an Asus G50VT and loved it for the past few years, but now that it's dead I'm screwed. I can't afford anything over $500 really. So what I need:

under $500
not a tablet or desktop or anything
must run windows/windows 7 preferred
must have an SD card slot
must have at least a 160gb HDD

Amazon preferred if it's cheap, because I have Prime. If it's Amazon I can do up to $600.

also is there any way I could find something under $500 with decent dedicated graphics? I would hate for all my Steam games to go to waste. Then again the most intensive stuff I have is Fallout 3 and Portal 2 and such.

Whatever I get will have to last me a few years at minimum.
Help me, GAF.

Will probably get better help here:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386622

But you're also probably going to struggle to get a good "gaming laptop" for $500-$600.

 

[PGamer]

Hey, I have a couple of questions:

How well do SSDs run with Windows XP? I have a spare old that I want to put in my parents' PC but they still have XP and I don't know if that is going to be a problem or not.

And related to the first one, is there anywhere to buy a cheap upgrade copy of Windows 7 anywhere? The lowest I can find in Canada right now is the student deal which seems to have been bumped up to $95 since the last time I checked.

 

[Skel1ingt0n]

Alright everybody, a more "subjective" SSD question...

I have an opportunity to get this 80GB PCI-E RevoDrive SSD for $175:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227597




I jumped on the SSD bandwagon pretty early; I think I got my first one 3 or 4 years ago. And have rocked one in every computer since other than my iMac. Right now I have an OCZ Agility 2 60GB as a boot drive on my gaming PC, and a 128GB Kingston low-tier SSD as a scratch drive on the right. I'd probably be pulling everything from my current rig except MoBo/CPU/RAM if I were to build an Ivy Bridge build in a few months.

That said, I would like to change up my storage, and have an even faster main drive. My original intent was to RAID-0 a couple 60 or 80GB SATA3 SSDs on my next build. But this good deal on the RevoDrive is grabbing my attention. Thing is, I've never bothered RAID-ing (even though I'm sure it's pretty easy to do), and I've never had a PCI-e boot disk. So, which is easier? Which is faster? What would YOU do between either of my two options?

Thanks! Just looking for opinions, suggestions, etc. Only thing that's really pushing me away from the RevoDrive right now is if it's gonna be tough getting it to boot properly or troubleshoot if there's a problem, and that it takes up space on my board where I already rock a dual-slot GPU, a sound card, a killer NIC, and a GPU fan. There's not enough slots; which means a likely more expensive MOBO.

Sorry for the long explanation ;p

 

[chaosblade]

Alright everybody, a more "subjective" SSD question...

I have an opportunity to get this 80GB PCI-E RevoDrive SSD for $175:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227597




I jumped on the SSD bandwagon pretty early; I think I got my first one 3 or 4 years ago. And have rocked one in every computer since other than my iMac. Right now I have an OCZ Agility 2 60GB as a boot drive on my gaming PC, and a 128GB Kingston low-tier SSD as a scratch drive on the right. I'd probably be pulling everything from my current rig except MoBo/CPU/RAM if I were to build an Ivy Bridge build in a few months.

That said, I would like to change up my storage, and have an even faster main drive. My original intent was to RAID-0 a couple 60 or 80GB SATA3 SSDs on my next build. But this good deal on the RevoDrive is grabbing my attention. Thing is, I've never bothered RAID-ing (even though I'm sure it's pretty easy to do), and I've never had a PCI-e boot disk. So, which is easier? Which is faster? What would YOU do between either of my two options?

Thanks! Just looking for opinions, suggestions, etc. Only thing that's really pushing me away from the RevoDrive right now is if it's gonna be tough getting it to boot properly or troubleshoot if there's a problem, and that it takes up space on my board where I already rock a dual-slot GPU, a sound card, a killer NIC, and a GPU fan. There's not enough slots; which means a likely more expensive MOBO.

Sorry for the long explanation ;p

RAID would be faster. RevoDrives are just SSDs that use PCI instead of SATA. I also don't think RevoDrives support features like TRIM, but that may have been fixed since the last time I looked into them.

A couple M4s would be a much better choice though.

Edit: Actually that one uses RAID too, the older ones didn't IIRC, or maybe I'm just thinking of those crazy 4x ones. So I dunno, I guess people would probably still recommend against it since it's Sandforce. Probably just your call there.

 

[butanebob]

I assume you mean you don't even get BIOS, or UEFI. I ask this because I recently had an issue but it turned out to be my hard drive dieing. Have you recently updated the firmware? Have you ever updated the firmware? Does the motherboard act like it is doing everything but you simply can't see anything? Are there any bright lights flashing (on the board) that seem alarming? Have you ruled out it isn't a GPU (or other hardware) problem by swapping out parts?

Yeah nah it won't boot at all, won't even get into the bios, fans don't even spin up etc. Absolutely no lights on the mobo except for the constant green LED indicating the power is connected. I haven't swapped any parts out though as i don't have alternatives.

Try powering the board by bridging the two power pins together with a flat head screwdriver. The two pins I'm talking about are on the white quick connector that ASUS supplied with the motherboard to help you connect your case's wires to it.

No luck with that either

You might be smokey jr.

I had the same problem and had to constantly flip the switch off/on on my PSU for it to come back on. I eventually had to send mine to ASUS for RMA...

Bloody hell that worked! it's running fine now but i'm too scared to turn it back off again. I'm guessing i have to get a new motherboard now. I certainly won't be getting the same board this time...

 

[Alucrid]

So I want to replace the HDD with an SSD for my laptop (not really gaming, but I figure it fits here anyways) how difficult is it to clone my current HDD to the SSD?

 

[chaosblade]

So I want to replace the HDD with an SSD for my laptop (not really gaming, but I figure it fits here anyways) how difficult is it to clone my current HDD to the SSD?

I think that's exactly what SSDs that include transfer kits are for. Should be pretty easy with one of those.

Reinstalling is a better option though, because you'll want Windows to do things different than with a HDD. There's also this SSD Tweaker program, but I don't know much about it myself.