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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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MC RaZaR

Neo Member
Hey guys, i'm in the market for a new PSU since my OCZ one crapped out on me and started making a crackling noises and hardly turns on. I'd prefer to try a different brand this time. I need something in the 550W-600W range. Also, I have a $25 BestBuy gift card and I've been searching around on there.

After looking at the opening post, maybe you can place an order for an Antec BP550 through BestBuy's website.
 

mclaren777

Member
PSU works and all fans spin. We thought it was the GPU but we swapped it with a working unit and it still doesn't display anything on the monitor. It's just black.
 

Quadratic

Member
Can't speak for that exact monitor, but I have a U2211H and it's excellent. I'd definitely recommend a Dell IPS monitor.

I use it as my primary monitor even though it's a bit smaller than my ASUS, but it just blows that TN panel out of the water.

I read some stuff on the DELL UltraSharp U2312HM online. Seems like a good monitor especially since it's now 100 dollars off. Most sites pan the lack of HDMI but praise it's colour fidelity. I'm pretty sold on it now. It's replacing an old 21.5 inch monitor. I'm not going to miss 1680X1050.
 

1-D_FTW

Member
PSU works and all fans spin. We thought it was the GPU but we swapped it with a working unit and it still doesn't display anything on the monitor. It's just black.

You're sure the PSU works? Because I've had junk PSUs where the only thing they would do was spin the fans. So don't go on that alone.

If you're sure it's not that, you might want to pull all the RAM sticks and try one at a time. If it's one or more sticks, you can isolate the faulty ones and get it to boot with the right combo.
 

Tadale

Member
Working on a build for myself. I was trying to keep it at around $700, but I want as much power as possible. This is what I came up with – no HDD or optical drive because I've got that stuff already.

Any adjustments that need to be made? Is there anyway to reduce the cost without really taking a hit on performance?

3EEfP.png
 
Working on a build for myself. I was trying to keep it at around $700, but I want as much power as possible. This is what I came up with – no HDD or optical drive because I've got that stuff already.

Any adjustments that need to be made? Is there anyway to reduce the cost without really taking a hit on performance?

3EEfP.png

You could do with a cheaper 500w psu.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Wrote an article on cable management for content on my team's website. Can link in the OP if you think it's worth it.

In the process, also got things situated with the switch to a 7970 in my mini build. Turned out quite nice.

4LOIGl.jpg


I think finally, I will have time to go and update the Race Your PC thread tomorrow morning. Hooray!
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Switched to this. Will this work?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

I'm concerned about the ram. Only gonna be playing games, so should I just go with 8 gigs?
Fill out OP sheet. PSU overkill, RAM meant for different mobo (tri channel). 560Ti bad value.
Wrote an article on cable management for content on my team's website. Can link in the OP if you think it's worth it.

In the process, also got things situated with the switch to a 7970 in my mini build. Turned out quite nice.

4LOIGl.jpg


I think finally, I will have time to go and update the Race Your PC thread tomorrow morning. Hooray!
This is stuff to PM me! PM me.
 

scogoth

Member
Wrote an article on cable management for content on my team's website. Can link in the OP if you think it's worth it.

In the process, also got things situated with the switch to a 7970 in my mini build. Turned out quite nice.

4LOIGl.jpg


I think finally, I will have time to go and update the Race Your PC thread tomorrow morning. Hooray!

Looks good from the front but damn thats a lot of tape on the back!

Didn't you get those power cables custom made? Why didn't you get them made to length?
 

Link83

Member
Working on a build for myself. I was trying to keep it at around $700, but I want as much power as possible. This is what I came up with – no HDD or optical drive because I've got that stuff already.

Any adjustments that need to be made? Is there anyway to reduce the cost without really taking a hit on performance?
Just curious, but why have you selected a 2500 instead of a 2500K?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Nice cable management. :)
Only a single ssd because it's a benching rig?
Have a linux file server that's RAID5 8TB's, and my main rig where I record game footage and the like has a 2TB RAID0 setup, and a Corsair Force GT. :p No need for extra HDD's other than OS and a few games on the secondary gaming rig as well as the HTPC. Need to get rid of those rivets to remove the second HDD cage to fit another 240mm rad anyway.

Looks good from the front but damn thats a lot of tape on the back!

Didn't you get those power cables custom made? Why didn't you get them made to length?
Because they were originally cut for a 600T.

Going to get a new set made anyway, as I'm doing a total overhaul of the mini. Doing a T:A/Blood Eagle theme. Want to get this game as much publicity as I can from my tiny soapbox.
 

scogoth

Member
Because they were originally cut for a 600T.

Going to get a new set made anyway, as I'm doing a total overhaul of the mini. Doing a T:A/Blood Eagle theme. Want to get this game as much publicity as I can from my tiny soapbox.

At first I thought Total Annihilation, then I realized you're a tribes player.....
 

vitaminwateryum

corporate swill
Anyone else have their PC mainly hooked up to their TV? I seem to have a problem. When playing 360 my TV has no problems with 1920x1080. However, when I use my TV with my PC any resolution over 1680x1050 is cut off of the screen. Even weirder, is that even though my resolution is set to 1680x1050, my TV's info button displays it as 1400x1050.
 

Hawk269

Member
Anyone else have their PC mainly hooked up to their TV? I seem to have a problem. When playing 360 my TV has no problems with 1920x1080. However, when I use my TV with my PC any resolution over 1680x1050 is cut off of the screen. Even weirder, is that even though my resolution is set to 1680x1050, my TV's info button displays it as 1400x1050.

That sounds weird. I am hooked up to a TV and have not issues. I did have a small issue with my older 1080p TV. Gaming on concoles were fine, but the PC the image was too big, I had to make a custom resolution in the driver of 1890x1062 or something like that to actually make the desktop not be cut off anywhere. Unfortunately, not all games read the custome resolution you make (Starcraft 2), so games like SC2 were cut-off and basically unplayable.

Even though it was a1080p screen it was an older TV, but my new one I have no issues with displaying 1080p with the computer.
 

scogoth

Member
Anyone else have their PC mainly hooked up to their TV? I seem to have a problem. When playing 360 my TV has no problems with 1920x1080. However, when I use my TV with my PC any resolution over 1680x1050 is cut off of the screen. Even weirder, is that even though my resolution is set to 1680x1050, my TV's info button displays it as 1400x1050.

Turn off over scan or change the stretch/picture mode to Just Scan, 1:1, PC mode or equivalent. Its different on every TV.
 

vitaminwateryum

corporate swill
Turn off over scan or change the stretch/picture mode to Just Scan, 1:1, PC mode or equivalent. Its different on every TV.

I'm not seeing anything in my TV's settings. In the picture menu there's only the usual brightness/contrast/sharpness, and when it comes to picture modes there's zoom and normal. Normal seems to do nothing but force the tv into some sort of weird 4:3 mode. There's an advanced option on the setup menu, but there's nothing in there but horizontal / vertical position stuff.

I'm using a VGA cable, is it something where I might need to use an HDMI for the TV?
 

demigod

Member
What's with us.ncix.com forcing you to pay return shipping to them if you have to RMA the product to them? No way would I pay for their $50 VIP pass nor fork over $20 extra for Express RMAing a monitor. Anyone ever ordered from PCNation?
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Is it a good idea to buy a 570 now? My PC is on its last leg and I really, really need a new one.
Not really the best time since new GPUs from AMD will pop up in the next month, and Nvidia is rumored to have something in the next few months.

But if you really need a GPU a 570 isn't a bad choice.

What's with us.ncix.com forcing you to pay return shipping to them if you have to RMA the product to them? No way would I pay for their $50 VIP pass nor fork over $20 extra for Express RMAing a monitor. Anyone ever ordered from PCNation?

Pretty sure return shipping on RMAs is standard for most places. Had to pay it for Newegg, and I'm pretty sure I also had to when I shipped an HDD to Samsung.

Does PCNation not make you pay return shipping? Never ordered from them myself so I can't give any feedback.
 

Bisonian

Member
I just put together a new computer with an i5-2500k and an Asrock motherboard. I put a few extra fans into the case, and was told that overclocking it would be fairly easy. Following the few tips that I read in the OP, I ran Prime95 for an hour on the processor's factory settings and it came up with max temps on the cores of 67/68/69/66 degrees. The advice is that it should be around 65 when running under stress. Is this a problem? Shouldn't the cores be cooler then this without overclocking at all?

On the side, thanks for the thread. It was extremely helpful with picking out parts and giving great advice. Thanks for all the hard work.

e: I'm using the stock cooler that came with the chip, could that just be the issue? Should I invest in getting a big ass heatsink on it or something? There are quite a few extra fans around the case as well.
 

Tadale

Member
Okay, I took the suggestions and came up with this:

wIh2T.png


Anything else I can do? What can I reasonably expect to run with this rig?

Thanks guys.
 
Okay, I took the suggestions and came up with this:

wIh2T.png


Anything else I can do? What can I reasonably expect to run with this rig?

Thanks guys.

Only thing I'd consider is that the GPU may be price dropping relatively soon with the new cards on the horizon, they haven't dropped in price in quite some time. Other than that add a new heatsink if you plan on taking full advantage of that 2500k.
 

Shambles

Member
Okay, I took the suggestions and came up with this:

wIh2T.png


Anything else I can do? What can I reasonably expect to run with this rig?

Thanks guys.

The Antec 300 2 is out, don't but the old one, especially at that price (I don't trust MIRs). The new one has USB3 and has several improvements inside such as cable routing holes in the motherboard etc. I've been happy with my old 300 but at the 60-70 price point there are other options out there to consider. I like the HAF 912 better on the inside but I think the outside looks stupid. I like the CM 690 II as well but it's a little more expensive and doesn't have USB3. At this point I wouldn't bother with a case without front USB3 ports.

Edit: Also from what I can tell so far your motherboard does not have a USB3 header on it, just USB3 ports on the back. Considering how long you're going to be using this machine the likelihood of you wanting to be able to connect USB3 devices to the front of your computer is pretty high.
 

Jibbed

Member
1.35V would be my personal MAX voltage. So I'd lower it and manually set it up using offset.

Thanks.

I've tried a few different offset values but I'm still unsure how to go about achieving 1.35v~.

For example, at 4.7GHz with offset +0.005, I get around 1.39v running Prime95 (temps hover around 68c). Any higher +offset results in a higher load voltage, which makes sense to me.

However, when I tried -0.005 (assuming this would bring it closer to 1.35v~), under load the voltage jumped up to 1.5v~ :/

Can somebody please help me? Am I ok at 1.39~, or is there a way to get 1.35v without setting it as a fixed voltage?
 

ColonelT

Member
Thanks for the feedback...here's what I came up with; anything you'd change based on my requirements, or that would bring the cost closer to $1,000 without sacrificing too much performance?

Click here to see The Build

Your Current Specs: Starting from scratch. Been using laptops exclusively for 7 years and I'm ready to get back to a desktop.
Budget: ~$1000 US
Main Use: Gaming, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback), podcast recording and editing.
Monitor Resolution: Already have a Samsung SyncMaster P2450, running at 1080P. No plans to upgrade this.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: StarCraft II, SWTOR, WoW, Star Trek Online, Civ V, Mass Effect 1/2/3, Skyrim, eventually Diablo III
Are reusing any parts?: No, starting from scratch.
When will you build?: Would like to order parts by February 6th.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe....

Slowly but surely changing my mind about overclocking. I'm open to the apparently wondrous possibilities.
 
Thanks for the feedback...here's what I came up with; anything you'd change based on my requirements, or that would bring the cost closer to $1,000 without sacrificing too much performance?

Click here to see The Build



Slowly but surely changing my mind about overclocking. I'm open to the apparently wondrous possibilities.

Get a weaker powersupply. 520w seasonic is good.

Others confirm this, but you might even do with a 430w psu. A dual 560ti system eats about 440 on load.
 
i currently have this issue with my pc when ever i try to resume from sleep mode the computer shuts on and off constantly. only way i can get it back to normal is to turn off the power switch from the back.
 
I'm not seeing anything in my TV's settings. In the picture menu there's only the usual brightness/contrast/sharpness, and when it comes to picture modes there's zoom and normal. Normal seems to do nothing but force the tv into some sort of weird 4:3 mode. There's an advanced option on the setup menu, but there's nothing in there but horizontal / vertical position stuff.

I'm using a VGA cable, is it something where I might need to use an HDMI for the TV?

Yes. Most tv's will not allow 1080 over VGA. Because you know, piracy.
 

kennah

Member
Sir my wallet and my marriage thank you.

Ontopic: Next upgrade is coming as soon as the bulging caps on my motherboard finish their slow death. Q6600 will be retired and replaced with whatever the i5-2500k level chip is.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Have a linux file server that's RAID5 8TB's, and my main rig where I record game footage and the like has a 2TB RAID0 setup, and a Corsair Force GT. :p No need for extra HDD's other than OS and a few games on the secondary gaming rig as well as the HTPC. Need to get rid of those rivets to remove the second HDD cage to fit another 240mm rad anyway.

Just out of curiosity, what size is the ssd in your mini rig?
 

Arucardo

Member
Finally got something to ask here. Been trying to figure out what's up with my GTX 580 that I bough recently.

Every time I do a cold/hard boot and Windows 7 loads up the GPU crashes and throws up artifacts in the windows welcome screen (like a broken gpu) but after rebooting with the reset button it loads up just fine and works perfectly in games even when overclocked.

I tried using the other 8pin connectors in my PSU but it didn't seem to help (a Cooler Master GX 750 W). Not sure if it's just a driver issue or a psu issue. I did revert to the last non beta driver but that didn't help either. I'll wait for the next driver release if I can't figure this out by then.
 

HenryHSH

Member
Guys talk me out of eyefinity. I got a 6850 when my 4850 died. Now I'm browsing monitors...


AA off, since I'm using a weak ass 5770...

Eyefinity is nice... in games that fully (including centered HUD) support it. A lot of games don't, or need patches and/or file edits. Three screen setups are good with racing, flight, 1st person and 3rd person games only.

Keep in mind that a lot of games have FOV issues in menus and in-game or are straight up unplayable.
 
Guys talk me out of eyefinity. I got a 6850 when my 4850 died. Now I'm browsing monitors...


Seem's like such a waste simply for peripheral vision. I've played with a few setups, and the bezel of the monitors just kills it for me.

I don't know I just don't see the benefit for the cost. If you just want to blow money just get a 7970 instead. :D

Also like said above it's just not supported well nor will it ever be b/c the majority of the community will never want to deal with buying 3 monitors.
 
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