pauljeremiah
Gold Member
What would be the best PSU for running dual Sapphire 7970's? My current PSU runs fine until I play a game, then the system cuts out and then restarts. I have an Alienware Area 51 ALX Chassis.
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]
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Seasonic 850 plat should be just fine. Same with Corsair AX850 or Seasonic X850.
pauljeremiah
Gold Member
Hmm. CWT built. Looks similar to Corsairs HX line-up...
Only a 3 year warranty vs 7 of Corsair, but... that's not bad.
If you want to save some $ I'd get the 850w A-DATA model.
http://www.komplett.ie/Komplett/pro...004753/adata_hm_850_850_watt_atx/details.aspx
Oh duh.
How could I forget that, especially since I've said that before. That's what happens if you stare at numbers too long.
GET A GOOD 80+GOLD 850W+ PSU.
Though that 1200W A-DATA doesn't seem bad at all from reviews. Can't find much else on it besides specs.
You can try one of these types of USB adapters:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=29829175&postcount=7541
Keep in mind, the ones that have adapter plates for use in a PCI slot, or ODD bay, can also be used internally, hidden behind your motherboard tray.
690 II Adv., and USB 3.0 versions are often sold alongside one another (differences in the link I posted earlier). The USB 3.0 version has been available for months. You may need to call and verify if a retailer has it in stock, as some won't have updated their old 690 II Adv. listing.
Old feature vid of the non-USB 3.0 690 II Adv.:
Cooler Master 690 II Advanced Video Review
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGvBjEmXJnI
Exact-o-ly. Kinda funny how Corsair was scrambling immediately after Cooler Master debuted the Eisberg 120/240/360 series.
Corsair is still the leader in AIOs, but Intel, Zalman, Enermax, and a list of others are also sourcing some of the same CoolIT and Asetek AIOs. Up until now, Thermaltake's Water 2.0/Water 2.0 Pro/Water 2.0 Pro Extreme looked to be the biggest threat to Corsair. Assuming Cooler Master come close to their price estimates, and they roughly maintain 1:1 pricing (no direct conversions), then that changes everything. I doubt CM, or Thermaltake will ultimately match Corsair's customer service, and warranty, though. Still, the Eisbergs look like serious competition to XSPC, and, more so, Corsair.
Quality materials, copper rads instead of aluminum, customizable, decent pump, and reputable OEM.
CM has kind of dropped the ball with products like the new HAF-XM, and I'm not holding my breathe for them to drop Enhance as a chief PSU OEM, but hey, BeQuiet! is now using SeaSonic for their top end line, so that's progress.
Anyhow...
Cooler Master returns to liquid cooling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNwgj3XNWoo
Cooler Master coolers @ Cebit 2012
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqQrmFRMueg
CeBIT 2012 Cooler Master Eisberg Wasserkühlungen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0Culqmx-os
CeBIT 2012: Cooler Master in Zukunft mit Kompaktwasserkühlungen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh9e8OkFtmQ
Slim 120, thick 120, thick 240.
·feist·;35935748 said:You can try one of these types of USB adapters:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=29829175&postcount=7541
Keep in mind, the ones that have adapter plates for use in a PCI slot, or ODD bay, can also be used internally, hidden behind your motherboard tray.
The problem is the USB3 header needs to be male with 2 female exterior USB3 ports. For most people who buy USB3 cases have a motherboard either with no USB3 or with the USB3 internal header. The motherboard going in the 400R only has two external USB3 ports on the back of the motherboard without any internal headers. The case header is going to be female expecting to plug into a male motherboard header, but I need a male adapter to 2 external ports so that I can route normal USB3 cable through the case, out the grommet on the back of the case plugging into USB3 ports on the back of the motherboard. In a fashion similar to what the first USB3 cases did before the USB3 header was standardized.
I can find a lot of adapters with female ends but I can only find that one with the male end. The problem is that it only has one USB exterior port instead of two. Anyways, I'll keep looking and let you folks know if I do locate a seller in case others have the same issue.
Gaffers, so I just bought a 240GB Vertex 3 and need to clone my previous C: drive so the new SSD is the boot drive.... discuss.
I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty in the registry but would prefer not to. I'd also rather not pay for software.
Your expertise are appreciated, and success shall be celebrated with the adding of chocolate to milk.
I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty in the registry but would prefer not to. I'd also rather not pay for software.
Your expertise are appreciated, and success shall be celebrated with the adding of chocolate to milk.
GAF, we've had a fair few (hundred) discussions where people wanted to know which monitor to buy. And, mainly, the answer's been the ASUS VW246H, or an equivalent. Which is a terrific display. I'm typing this using one right now. But lately, I've had the itch to go bigger. To get an IPS display of some sort, preferably one 27" or larger. But the thought of spending $800 or more on a monitor, even one as nice as a Dell 30" or a Samsung whatever doesn't quite sit right with me and my meager (meagre, for our British chums) budget.
Until this fell into my lap.
It's a 27" S-IPS monitor, running at 2560x1440, for just around $400. That's utterly bonkers. But a number of Korean display manufacturers decided they'd buy up a bunch of the LG panels used in, among other things, the Apple Thunderbolt Display, and slap them in some much cheaper housings. And sell them (in Korea) for about $250. Recently, though, some enterprising eBay sellers started shipping them overseas at the $400 mark (give or take), and the fine folks at [H]ardForum and Overclock.net have gone batshit for them. Even, in some cases, overclocking the actual refresh rates of the displays themselves to run them at, say, 100Hz rather than 60Hz. This is also bonkers. The base models only come with dual-link DVI output (ones with more outputs come at the expense of added cost and added input lag), but tempered glass and built-in speakers are available, too.
There are two main manufacturers, Shimian and Yamakasi (but with product names of Achevia and Catleap). Achevia models are cheaper, but with crappy stands (but VESA mounting holes), while the Catleaps are more expensive, and have their VESA hardware stuck behind a rather sturdier stand. Recently, though (as in hours ago), a third model came into the mix: Crossover. Crossover is notable because its stand features full tilt, swivel, height, and pivot functionality. (And just looks plain badass, as seen above.)
Anyway. It's 1:20 AM and I'm tired as hell, but I just ordered mine, and I wanted to share with you all. If you're willing to take the risk of international shipping, this could be ridiculous (in the best possible way).
Until this fell into my lap.
It's a 27" S-IPS monitor, running at 2560x1440, for just around $400. That's utterly bonkers. But a number of Korean display manufacturers decided they'd buy up a bunch of the LG panels used in, among other things, the Apple Thunderbolt Display, and slap them in some much cheaper housings. And sell them (in Korea) for about $250. Recently, though, some enterprising eBay sellers started shipping them overseas at the $400 mark (give or take), and the fine folks at [H]ardForum and Overclock.net have gone batshit for them. Even, in some cases, overclocking the actual refresh rates of the displays themselves to run them at, say, 100Hz rather than 60Hz. This is also bonkers. The base models only come with dual-link DVI output (ones with more outputs come at the expense of added cost and added input lag), but tempered glass and built-in speakers are available, too.
There are two main manufacturers, Shimian and Yamakasi (but with product names of Achevia and Catleap). Achevia models are cheaper, but with crappy stands (but VESA mounting holes), while the Catleaps are more expensive, and have their VESA hardware stuck behind a rather sturdier stand. Recently, though (as in hours ago), a third model came into the mix: Crossover. Crossover is notable because its stand features full tilt, swivel, height, and pivot functionality. (And just looks plain badass, as seen above.)
Anyway. It's 1:20 AM and I'm tired as hell, but I just ordered mine, and I wanted to share with you all. If you're willing to take the risk of international shipping, this could be ridiculous (in the best possible way).
im hitting capacity of my 120gb corsair (sandforce2) SSD so im looking to upgrade to a 240gb.. i want a sandforce2 drive again since ive had fantastic experience with mine and the benchmarks for the crucial m4 and intel drives look lackluster
from my research it seems there are 3 types of NAND to look for when buying an SSD:
- async nand
- sync nand
- toggle nand (toshiba 32nm)
the toggle nand is the one you want but it looks like only the ocz vertex3 max iops, the patriot wildfire, and the mushkin chronos deluxe have it... any others?
from my research it seems there are 3 types of NAND to look for when buying an SSD:
- async nand
- sync nand
- toggle nand (toshiba 32nm)
the toggle nand is the one you want but it looks like only the ocz vertex3 max iops, the patriot wildfire, and the mushkin chronos deluxe have it... any others?
Have you looked at the Samsung 830?
I just bought a 240GB Vertex 3 today, as an upgrade for my Corsair 60GB (getting old) Nova. It's amazing, I highly recommend it.
dehydratedbabies
Member
Well I'm gonna have to get used to moving it from my elbow, I fell on my right wrist yesterday and so tendinitis has left my wrist in a splint for the next 2-8 weeks.
Well I'm gonna have to get used to moving it from my elbow, I fell on my right wrist yesterday and so tendinitis has left my wrist in a splint for the next 2-8 weeks.
Wow, I definitely didn't wish for that to happen when I wrote that! Sorry guy
dehydratedbabies
Member
Thanks, unfortunately I have only myself (and Jameson Irish Whiskey) to blame.
Tweaktown posted a review of the Silverstone TJ-04.
Important picture:
Offset mounting for top fans. Looks like a 240mm rad of any size should be just fine.
Important picture:
Offset mounting for top fans. Looks like a 240mm rad of any size should be just fine.
Well all my stuff came today. I tested the components out before hooking it into the case and everything worked fine. Take the case out of the box and the top flap of the case is loose and slides around. There were some plastic clips that were meant to keep the top in place with the rest of it but all of them had been snapped off.
I figured I can live with that and I'll find out a solution to it and started to put everything in the case. Well I hooked all the conections up and then realized that the top panel with USB, headphone ports etc is not even sat flush and falls down into the case. I assume it is supposed to be glued or something since it won't click in and stay put. To top it off those front ports don't seem to work and give me errors at boot up, so I had up unplug them from the mobo to get into windows.
This is very annoying. I'm gonna try and contact Overclockers and see if I can get a replacement or something.
Thank god the power button is ok
This is what all of the clips on the top panel look like. Totally snapped with no way to connect it to the rest of the case.
Here are the remains of those clips that I found in and around the case.
I figured I can live with that and I'll find out a solution to it and started to put everything in the case. Well I hooked all the conections up and then realized that the top panel with USB, headphone ports etc is not even sat flush and falls down into the case. I assume it is supposed to be glued or something since it won't click in and stay put. To top it off those front ports don't seem to work and give me errors at boot up, so I had up unplug them from the mobo to get into windows.
This is very annoying. I'm gonna try and contact Overclockers and see if I can get a replacement or something.
Thank god the power button is ok
This is what all of the clips on the top panel look like. Totally snapped with no way to connect it to the rest of the case.
Here are the remains of those clips that I found in and around the case.
Amory
Member
So I nearly finished my first ever build, and it boots! Hooray!
only problem is that there are a few wires coming out of the case that don't seem to connect anywhere to the motherboard. i dunno what they're for or if they're even needed (the manual that came with the case is godawful).
there are 4 "3P connectors"
and a usb 3.0 internal connector
dunno where any of them connect to...?
only problem is that there are a few wires coming out of the case that don't seem to connect anywhere to the motherboard. i dunno what they're for or if they're even needed (the manual that came with the case is godawful).
there are 4 "3P connectors"
and a usb 3.0 internal connector
dunno where any of them connect to...?
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
I'm picking up a used Dell 20" 2005w to tilt vertically and use as a secondary monitor and browse the web with. I'm paying 35$ for it, Yay or nay?
I'd venture $170-190 MSRP, which is actually cheap for a high-end mobo. Not bad at all for what you're getting.The Asus Maximus V Gene looks like a killer motherboard, too bad I'm guessing the price will be insane
For that price, why not?
Posting from my brand spankin new pc for the first time
Thanks again to everyone who helped me out along the way.
*internet high five*
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
Yep, that's what I was thinking, just looking for some positive reinforcement I guess.
GAF, we've had a fair few (hundred) discussions where people wanted to know which monitor to buy. And, mainly, the answer's been the ASUS VW246H, or an equivalent. Which is a terrific display. I'm typing this using one right now. But lately, I've had the itch to go bigger. To get an IPS display of some sort, preferably one 27" or larger. But the thought of spending $800 or more on a monitor, even one as nice as a Dell 30" or a Samsung whatever doesn't quite sit right with me and my meager (meagre, for our British chums) budget.
Until this fell into my lap.
It's a 27" S-IPS monitor, running at 2560x1440, for just around $400. That's utterly bonkers. But a number of Korean display manufacturers decided they'd buy up a bunch of the LG panels used in, among other things, the Apple Thunderbolt Display, and slap them in some much cheaper housings. And sell them (in Korea) for about $250. Recently, though, some enterprising eBay sellers started shipping them overseas at the $400 mark (give or take), and the fine folks at [H]ardForum and Overclock.net have gone batshit for them. Even, in some cases, overclocking the actual refresh rates of the displays themselves to run them at, say, 100Hz rather than 60Hz. This is also bonkers. The base models only come with dual-link DVI output (ones with more outputs come at the expense of added cost and added input lag), but tempered glass and built-in speakers are available, too.
There are two main manufacturers, Shimian and Yamakasi (but with product names of Achevia and Catleap). Achevia models are cheaper, but with crappy stands (but VESA mounting holes), while the Catleaps are more expensive, and have their VESA hardware stuck behind a rather sturdier stand. Recently, though (as in hours ago), a third model came into the mix: Crossover. Crossover is notable because its stand features full tilt, swivel, height, and pivot functionality. (And just looks plain badass, as seen above.)
Anyway. It's 1:20 AM and I'm tired as hell, but I just ordered mine, and I wanted to share with you all. If you're willing to take the risk of international shipping, this could be ridiculous (in the best possible way).
Keep us updated, trying to find a cheap 2560x1440 monitor is hard.
You really think it will be that cheap? I was expecting at least $300, with the price being inflated for no reason due to the ROG tag attached to it.
If it was sub $200 I'd probably consider buying a WiFi and/or a 16/32 GB SSD to stick in the module slot.
That's the current price of the Gene-Z. $300 would be for the Maximus V Extreme.
Hm, well, from reading the Kepler thread, it seems like I'll be waiting a while for something that might not even be worth it, and I'm not sure how much longer I can wait anyway. So if I want to replace my broken 560 Ti, should I just get another 560 Ti, or has a better value come around in the last year or so? Note I don't want to pay much more than $250.
I think I'm also considering going ahead and getting a 2500K and a new motherboard to go with it since I"ve been limited by this Athlon II 4X since the day I got it.
I think I'm also considering going ahead and getting a 2500K and a new motherboard to go with it since I"ve been limited by this Athlon II 4X since the day I got it.
There might be a price drop when Kepler arrives in the lower tiered cards. 560Ti 448 core cards can be found for $250 and would provide a tiny bump.
Otherwise, I have a MSI TFII 560Ti I'm looking to offload if you are interested. I know I won't be able to not buy the 680 when it's released.
Otherwise, I have a MSI TFII 560Ti I'm looking to offload if you are interested. I know I won't be able to not buy the 680 when it's released.
Good news then. Maximus V Gene + i7 3770k or i5 3750k + 16GB Ram + new GPU in a nice small case is probably what I'll end up doing...
Seasonic X650 for $99.99. Promo code: EMCNGJG93. I had one of these running an OC'd 2500K and two 560Ti's. Pretty amazing PSU.
Force GT 120GB for $164, 134 w/ MIR.
Force GT 120GB for $164, 134 w/ MIR.
Jeez that is beautiful! Thanks for sharing. Please, keep us posted.
I need a new psu since my old 500w Antec is making a whining noise. Would it be worth the price for a 750w psu in anticipation for the new nvidia's or would a decent 550w suffice? I don't really want to spend much money but if it is worth it in the long run I don't mind.
The new "high-end" 680 only has a TDP of 195 watts. If you're using an Intel processor, single GPU, and aren't doing extreme over-clocks, a quality 550w will work just fine.
Yeah I think the age of +1KW PSUs are over. Goodbye nehalem and fermi, we won't miss you.
Manp
Member
So I nearly finished my first ever build, and it boots! Hooray!
only problem is that there are a few wires coming out of the case that don't seem to connect anywhere to the motherboard. i dunno what they're for or if they're even needed (the manual that came with the case is godawful).
there are 4 "3P connectors"
your case has probably a fan controller or something. you can connect fans to those and control their speed with a knob on the front of the case.
just guessing.
faceless007
Member
I have a Corsair 550W that's about 3 years old. Depending on the graphics card, think that would be OK to keep using for an Ivy bridge build?
Probably. What is the type? TX, HX?
faceless007
Member
Any single card that costs less than $300 will be fine.
FutureZombie
Banned
Those are my current PC specs. I want to play this game: Guild Wars 2 minimum requirements on high settings if possible. What do I need to upgrade, and what changes can I make between $100-$200 to run this game on high (or medium if that is all I can hope for)?
Is a new graphics card all I need? And if so, can anyone recommend me a card?
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