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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. 22nm+28nm, Tri-Gate, and reading the OP. [Part 1]

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tkscz

tkscz

Member
mkenyon said:
Depends on use. For games, the 965. Even then though, you will want to overclock it quite a bit to get your money's worth. I'd really advise against a socket AM3 -> AM3 upgrade. You don't really gain very much going from the lower chips to the better chips in games. Going to socket 1155 intel is going to be well worth the extra cost.

Out of curiosity, what are you upgrading from?
Click to expand...

An old AMD Athlon II x4 640. Got it on a discount price when my previous CPU broke. Going Intel would me getting a whole other MoBo, of which I can't afford right now.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
You're not going to see any significant jump from a 640 to a 965. The money is better spent in the bank to save for a new mobo/proc/(if you dont have DDR3)RAM. This is from a historically AMD guy who went from 965/975 to a 2500K.
 
K

kagete

Member
If you haven't already, the best bang for buck upgrade is a cheap CM 212+ CPU cooler and OCing what you have as high as you're comfortable with. If you have $100 to spend now, save it and wait the extra 3-6 months when you might have $200+ to spend instead.
 
C

ChoklitReign

Member
I want to upgrade the fans/cooling in my case. The loudest section appears to be the CPU fan (i3 2100 stock) so I want a rear fan. The only fan it has is a 120mm front and it's partially blocked by wires. Will any 120mm fan do? How do I make it intake or exhale? Molex or motherboard connection? Is there another way to make my CPU cooler quieter; are bigger coolers generally quieter?

The case is a Cooler Master...Elite 430. No cable holes whatsoever, but it was my second option from Micro Center and it was less than $40. Is it worth the trouble buying a new case or will a single extra fan do? The only problem ATM I have with it is noise.
 
MisterNoisy

MisterNoisy

Member
ChoklitReign said:
I want to upgrade the fans/cooling in my case. The loudest section appears to be the CPU fan (i3 2100 stock) so I want a rear fan. The only fan it has is a 120mm front and it's partially blocked by wires. Will any 120mm fan do? How do I make it intake or exhale? Molex or motherboard connection? Is there another way to make my CPU cooler quieter; are bigger coolers generally quieter?

The case is a Cooler Master...Elite 430. No cable holes whatsoever, but it was my second option from Micro Center and it was less than $40. Is it worth the trouble buying a new case or will a single extra fan do? The only problem ATM I have with it is noise.
Click to expand...

The noise is likely from your CPU cooler - the stock ones are terribly loud, so replacing it wouldn't hurt at all and is pretty cheap. If you don't mind pulling the motherboard, replace the CPU cooler with a Hyper 212. If you don't want to do that, the Hyper TX3 should do the trick - either will be quieter than Intel stock. An additional 120mm exhaust fan on the back is a good idea, too. As far as orientation - fans blow in one direction, and the frame is generally on the 'back/exhaust' side.
 
X

Xyber

Member
ChoklitReign said:
I want to upgrade the fans/cooling in my case. The loudest section appears to be the CPU fan (i3 2100 stock) so I want a rear fan. The only fan it has is a 120mm front and it's partially blocked by wires. Will any 120mm fan do? How do I make it intake or exhale? Molex or motherboard connection? Is there another way to make my CPU cooler quieter; are bigger coolers generally quieter?

The case is a Cooler Master...Elite 430. No cable holes whatsoever, but it was my second option from Micro Center and it was less than $40. Is it worth the trouble buying a new case or will a single extra fan do? The only problem ATM I have with it is noise.
Click to expand...

You should really buy a cheap aftermarket cooler for your CPU, Cooler Master 212+ for example, that will help with the noise and make your CPU run at a lower temp.

The way you mount the fan decides if it will blow in or suck out air. It always blows in the direction where there is a sticker on the fan.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
ChoklitReign said:
I want to upgrade the fans/cooling in my case. The loudest section appears to be the CPU fan (i3 2100 stock) so I want a rear fan. The only fan it has is a 120mm front and it's partially blocked by wires. Will any 120mm fan do? How do I make it intake or exhale? Molex or motherboard connection? Is there another way to make my CPU cooler quieter; are bigger coolers generally quieter?

The case is a Cooler Master...Elite 430. No cable holes whatsoever, but it was my second option from Micro Center and it was less than $40. Is it worth the trouble buying a new case or will a single extra fan do? The only problem ATM I have with it is noise.
Click to expand...
1) The stock CPU fans are really loud as they operate at extremely high RPMs.
2) Your case can fit 1x120mm in the rear, and 2x120 on the top.
3) Most are labeled which side is exhaust. The easiest way to remember is that most fans come to a point, and form a sort of scooping design. The outside of the scoop is where it will be pulling air from. The inside is the exhaust.

This is the side air is exhausted out of:
a_scythe_120mm_kama_pwm_cooling_fan_lg_pic.jpg


This is the side air is pulled from:
p1020124cb1.jpg


4) Whatever is available. If you get PWM fans, that means their speed can be controlled by the motherboard. This is generally a better option than straight power.
5) Need a better CPU heatsink.
6) As a general rule of thumb, yes. Fan quality also plays a very significant role though.
7) Just get a replacement heatsink and three really good quality fans. My fav's at the moment are the BitFenix Spectre Pros, which are available at NCIX (US or CA), Frozen CPU, or Performance-PC's. Even at full power, they are whisper quiet. If you want to upgrade to a different case to really get into silent PC building, or because you just want an upgrade for more room/features, I will always tell the person yes. I have a case buying problem though.
 
B

BoobPhysics101

Banned
1-D_FTW said:
http://hdguru.com/will-you-see-all-...008-model-test-results-hd-guru-exclusive/287/

There's an article which covers quite a bit on it.

Pretty much what you expect. For static images (i.e. desktop or web browsing), 1920*1080 isn't an issue. But for moving images, the lower the motion resolution drops, the blurrier the image is going to appear.
Click to expand...

Coldsnap said:
damn, so what I can surmise is that the LG has some serious motion blur. BUT that pretty much comes with the territory of gaming on a LCD TV instead of a monitor.
Click to expand...

I've gotta disagree. The image never gets blurry during motion, the whole image is very crisp when static or moving. I wish I could make a video to show this, but honestly, I play a lot of fast paced stuff (BF3, Tribes Ascend, etc) and it works beautifully. Not really sure what all of that is about.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Maybe it's conditioning? Try out a low response time 120hz monitor next to it, you might surprise yourself with the difference.

I've played on my Toshiba somethingorother that I specifically bought for low response time and crisp images. It still looks like crap compared to a 120hz monitor.
 
1

1-D_FTW

Member
BoobPhysics101 said:
I've gotta disagree. The image never gets blurry during motion, the whole image is very crisp when static or moving. I wish I could make a video to show this, but honestly, I play a lot of fast paced stuff (BF3, Tribes Ascend, etc) and it works beautifully. Not really sure what all of that is about.
Click to expand...

You can disagree and say it doesn't bother you, but every single HDTV review site worth their salt measures motion resolution. And they have industry accepted tests to do this.

Panasonic's low end LCD (which has low input lag and gets recommended a lot by gamers) even officially lists 300 lines of motion resolution in their specs. If you go to Amazon, they don't even hide this. They publish it openly.

This isn't to be confused with motion blur. Motion blur is just the brain's inability to properly deal with LCD's display techniques. There's numerous ways the manufacturers have attempted to lesson that issue.

But motion resolution seems like a pretty standard issue that nobody really disputes. Whether or not somebody finds it objectionable (if it gets too low) is YMMV. And if it's not an issue to somebody's eyes, that's great. One less landmine they need to navigate when purchasing.

EDIT: You know what, maybe it is somewhat related to motion blur. I'm not really sure on the technicalities, just that it's a common test that all the HDTV review sites tend to publish.
 
C

clav

Member
Mr Nightman said:
looking for a new router, anyone have the Linksys E1200? its on sale for 19.99 with 10 dollar mail in rebate. Any good?
Linksys_E1200_e.jpg
Click to expand...

Broadcom CPU with 4MB Flash ROM and 32 MB of RAM. Standard.

No custom firmware support yet, but since it's a Broadcom CPU, it can if a firmware dev is willing to put in work.

I wouldn't buy one until it has custom firmware support.
 
C

clav

Member
Mr Nightman said:
yea read it wasnt supportive of dd wrt. My current router is starting to drop connection once or twice daily now. its the wrt 54g2 router. Now I still wonder if putting dd wrt on it may fix its issues, but who knows :-/
Click to expand...

What version of the WRT54G2 do you have? Look on the router and report back.

That router has a few variants: either with 2MB/4MB ROM and 8MB/16MB RAM.

I wouldn't put DD-WRT on a router that has 8 MB of RAM as I have done that before on a WRT54G v6.
 
C

clav

Member
Mr Nightman said:
hmm I'm actually not sure which version, will have to take a look in a bit. now on the other and I am also looking at the e1000 model, and it seems to be compatible with ddwrt as well. My moms using it and it works great
Click to expand...

E1000 basically has the same specs as the E1200.

The E1000 within themselves (two versions) have different Broadcom CPUs.
 
C

clav

Member
RedSwirl said:
Desktop. Dell XPS 420.
Click to expand...

For a desktop, you just have to find a compatible slot (i.e. PCI or PCI-E x1). I like to buy TP-Link brand cards as they are Atheros-based and Linux friendly.

What expansion slots are free in your desktop?

Note: If you try to stuff a PCI-E card on a SLI (x16) PCI-E slot, I think it will downgrade your graphics card to x1. I could be wrong about this.

----------

For a laptop, you have to find a compatible slot AND check the whitelist. Some PC manufacturers like Compaq/HP and others forbid people tampering with the hardware, so a system will not boot if the card is not detected on the BIOS programmed approved list. Also, generally Intel wireless cards will not work with AMD-based CPUs. As for aftermarket cards, I like to buy Intel (if it's an Intel CPU) then Atheros.

----------

Side note: I prefer Broadcom CPU routers simply because of custom firmware.
 
R

RedSwirl

Junior Member
claviertekky said:
For a desktop, you just have to find a compatible slot (i.e. PCI or PCI-E x1). I like to buy TP-Link brand cards as they are Atheros-based and Linux friendly.

What expansion slots are free in your desktop?

Note: If you try to stuff a PCI-E card on a SLI (x16) PCI-E slot, I think it will downgrade your graphics card to x1. I could be wrong about this.

----------

For a laptop, you have to find a compatible slot AND check the whitelist. Some PC manufacturers like Compaq/HP and others forbid people tampering with the hardware, so a system will not boot if the card is not detected on the BIOS programmed approved list. Also, generally Intel wireless cards will not work with AMD-based CPUs. As for aftermarket cards, I like to buy Intel (if it's an Intel CPU) then Atheros.

----------

Side note: I prefer Broadcom CPU routers simply because of custom firmware.
Click to expand...

I'm just gonna take my current one out (might be bustses) so whichever one that uses. Guess I'll have to open it up and check.
 
C

ccbfan

Member
The release date for Diablo 3 have finally been announce so its finally time for me to build a PC. The last Time I did this was 10 years ago and I haven't really been following the scene.

# Your Current Specs: I have no desktops. Just a 5 year old Core2Duo Dell Laptop with 2 Gigs of ram. (It can't even run SC2)

# Budget: USA - No price range but I'd like to keep it under 600.

# Main Use: Diablo 3 and SC 2. Maybe PS2 emulation (How much higher specs would this need). Basic stuff like watch movies, surf net.

# Monitor Resolution: I have a 22 inch Samsung monitor lying around that I would reuse. its 1920 x 1080

# List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Diablo 3 and SC2

# Are reusing any parts?: Nope

# When will you build?: I need it before D3 is released.

# Will you be overclocking?: Probably not.

Also like to add that I would like it to be quiet.

I'm not looking to run anything at max res at 60 fps. I just need something that usable that can yield moderate graphics for D3.
 
T

TheApatheticOne

Member
Hey PC GAF!

My computer just pooped the bed, led a long, painful existance and I was done with it.

Found this computer http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod5740152&navAction=push at Sams Club on clearance (nearly 50% off what the website is charging and wanted a desktop so said fuck it and bought it, thinking all I really do is surf and stuff.

Well, Diablo 3 is changing that. What would you recommend that I would need for this PC to run D3 okay? Not looking to make it a monster or anything, just run it okay. What say you PC GAF professionals?

Here are the stats for the computer from the link above.
Processor Type: 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ i5-2320
Processor Speed: 3.00GHz
Cache: 6MB Cache
Memory (RAM): 10GB PC3-10600 DDR3 SDRAM (1 x 2GB and 2 x 4GB)
Maximum Memory: 16GB
Hard Drive: 2TB 7200RPM Serial ATA
Graphics: NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 520 graphics card with 1GB DDR3 dedicated memory, DVI, VGA via adapter, and HDMI capabilities and support for Microsoft® DirectX® 11, and up to two monitors
• Up to 4095MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows® 7

Expansion: • 3 PCI Express x1 (two available)
• 1 PCI Express x16 (occupied)
• 1 MiniCard (occupied)
• 2 external 5.25" (one available)
• 2 internal 3.5" (one available)
 
S

scogoth

Member
TheApatheticOne said:
Hey PC GAF!

My computer just pooped the bed, led a long, painful existance and I was done with it.

Found this computer http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod5740152&navAction=push at Sams Club on clearance (nearly 50% off what the website is charging and wanted a desktop so said fuck it and bought it, thinking all I really do is surf and stuff.

Well, Diablo 3 is changing that. What would you recommend that I would need for this PC to run D3 okay? Not looking to make it a monster or anything, just run it okay. What say you PC GAF professionals?

Here are the stats for the computer from the link above.
Processor Type: 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ i5-2320
Processor Speed: 3.00GHz
Cache: 6MB Cache
Memory (RAM): 10GB PC3-10600 DDR3 SDRAM (1 x 2GB and 2 x 4GB)
Maximum Memory: 16GB
Hard Drive: 2TB 7200RPM Serial ATA
Graphics: NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 520 graphics card with 1GB DDR3 dedicated memory, DVI, VGA via adapter, and HDMI capabilities and support for Microsoft® DirectX® 11, and up to two monitors
• Up to 4095MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows® 7

Expansion: • 3 PCI Express x1 (two available)
• 1 PCI Express x16 (occupied)
• 1 MiniCard (occupied)
• 2 external 5.25" (one available)
• 2 internal 3.5" (one available)
Click to expand...

Swap out that GT 520 with a new Keplar GPU when they come out in a few weeks and you are good to go.
 
P

ParityBit

Member
Oh man, now I need to accelerate my computer research!

"Swap out that GT 520 with a new Keplar GPU when they come out in a few weeks and you are good to go."

What are we looking for at prices for this card? And ETA of release?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Big Papa Husker said:
I am contemplating finally getting a SSD. Which brand and model are the 'best' right now? I'm looking for a 200-256GB drive.
Click to expand...
Crucial M4, Samsung 830, Corsair Force GT.

I haven't found a need for anything larger than 120GB so far. 90GB is actually fine too, 120 just gives you that extra bit of breathing room. SSD for windows/apps, mechanical for data.
ccbfan said:
The release date for Diablo 3 have finally been announce so its finally time for me to build a PC. The last Time I did this was 10 years ago and I haven't really been following the scene.
Click to expand...
Go for the "standard" build in the OP. Get an aftermarket heatsink like the 212+, and some nice fans like BitFenix Spectre Pro's to go in the case. That should be enough power. If you can stretch your budget a bit more, the "Enhanced" is well worth it.
ParityBit said:
Oh man, now I need to accelerate my computer research!

"Swap out that GT 520 with a new Keplar GPU when they come out in a few weeks and you are good to go."

What are we looking for at prices for this card? And ETA of release?
Click to expand...
Your PSU will probably not be able to handle something like that. Try to get the information off of the side of it or from HP's website. The important information is how many amps it delivers on the 12V Rail, as well as the max watts it can deliver. They break it down by category, so the information is really clear.
 
1

1-D_FTW

Member
ParityBit said:
Oh man, now I need to accelerate my computer research!

"Swap out that GT 520 with a new Keplar GPU when they come out in a few weeks and you are good to go."

What are we looking for at prices for this card? And ETA of release?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't expect much. If you're not willing to wait out the pricing shenegians, I suspect you might be better off just cruising slickdeals for an older card.

The card originally designed for 299.99 is now releasing at 549.99. And if they're going off AMD's que, it's likely the 149.99 card will be priced at 249.99 and the 199.99 card will be dropping at 299.99.

So figure on rock bottom of 249.99 for their lowest entry.

This is all my fact-less speculation, but it's still a rather good bet.
 
I

IcyRhythms

Member
Guys I'm considering taking the plunge on a couple of GTX 570's...

How many years would you give me before I would need a consideriable upgrade?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
IcyRhythms said:
Guys I'm considering taking the plunge on a couple of GTX 570's...

How many years would you give me before I would need a consideriable upgrade?
Click to expand...
Second part is all subjective, and would be speculation. No way of knowing what might happen a year or so from now with games. The difference between the "680" and the 570 isn't astounding though. If you can get a crazy good deal, it might be worth it. Some folks might balk at the idea of limited VRAM. If you like moving all your sliders to the right at a crazy resolution, it might not be a good idea.
 
fushi

fushi

Member
Xyber said:
A few days ago I decided that I couldn't take the damn noise the pump in my Antec H2O 602 was making anymore and bought a Noctua NH-D14 instead. I fucking love that thing! It's completely quiet and my temps have never been this low before. I can really recommend this cooler.

And it looks so good in there. :D
jAFfF5GMiSnHy.JPG
Click to expand...
Damn, the reviews might Noctua products sound mighty nice. But I've a bit of a hard time choosing between them.
 
I

IcyRhythms

Member
If someone were going to build a keplar/Ivy Bridge build in the near future, it is a safe bet to wait for new MOBO's or go with some that are currently proven/available?
 
S

scogoth

Member
IcyRhythms said:
If someone were going to build a keplar/Ivy Bridge build in the near future, it is a safe bet to wait for new MOBO's or go with some that are currently proven/available?
Click to expand...

New ones, no guarantee that the "PCIe 3.0" on current mobos will work at PCIe 3.0 speeds. Better to wait and get USB3 from the PCH and PCIe 3.0
 
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