Celcius
°Temp. member
What's your budget?
Nvidia's gtx 600 series can do triple monitors with a single card.
http://www.geforce.com/optimize/guides/how-to-correctly-configure-geforce-gtx-680-surround/#1
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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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What's your budget?
Nvidia's gtx 600 series can do triple monitors with a single card.
http://www.geforce.com/optimize/guides/how-to-correctly-configure-geforce-gtx-680-surround/#1
really? by using the display port or something? I see two dvi outs on mine
i had poor experience with ati drivers
<$400? maybe i haven't fully decided yet
how good can the 660ti do it?
HDMI is DVI, you just need an adapter.
if the monitor has a hdmi slot then it shouldnt be a problem to start with
well that makes sense, hah.
I think you need to be running an overclocked 3930k and 3-4 680 to need a 1200W PSU.
unless you bought the drive and it said adapter included you wont have one. you can simply use some double sided tape and put it in a normal drive tray or leave the drive on the bottom of your case.
I'm curious to this as well. I haven't seen it tested, but 200+ watts worth of heat should do something. Especially to a radiator set as exaust.
Mechanical Snowman
Member
Hehe, alright thanks I will look into this. It has 4 ports on one controller so I should be able to RAID them in the way that you describe. I have definitely read some concerns about the boot drive being on these 3rd party controllers though, on this specific motherboard, so will have to go back and take a look at those forum threads that Google turned up.
If the difference between 2 and 4 RAIDed SSDs is minimal for a 'normal workload' then it shouldn't be an issue if I end up having 4 on two different controllers to make two RAID0 stripes, should it? If the option is there I'd of course like to go as fast as possible with 4 SSDs, I am just trying to justify a minimal noticeable increase in speed vs the extra risk of one drive failure taking down my whole system.
Edit, also is striping 4 SSDs of different capacity into the same RAID 0 as effective as if they were all the same capacity? Are there any drawbacks to it at all or is the capacity of the individual drives more or less irrelevant?
Okay, so I basically want to at least look for a reseller to have a higher chance of the card having the EVBot port - any way to find out if it does before purchase? Surely it's not a case of only finding out after opening the box or something. I'm not sure how much this bothers me right now anyway, but I of course would like the version which would give me better options with over clocking later on.
So I went overkill a little? What is the most suitable wattage for my build, or even better, specific recommendations? I took a look at those PSU calculator web services that are available but I wouldn't trust myself with entering the correct information into it, especially since it had overclocking options and a bunch of other things that I don't have a precise idea about yet.
I am planning to SLI at least 2x GTX680s, but it will almost certainly be a while until I consider buying another (but I am 90% sure I will be), so need to factor that in also. Ideally I'd be running 4 but, who has that kind of money! *ignores post #33*
I will also be overclocking.
Guys... Do I pull the trigger on an HD7870? It's $270 on Newegg, with a $30 mail-in rebate, a 10% off code, and a copy of Sleeping Dogs that I should be able to sell. I have an i5 2500K and 8GB of RAM, and I'd be upgrading from a GTX 260. lol)
Power supply is an older Antec 550W... Is that enough?
lol)Power supply is an older Antec 550W... Is that enough?
Guys... Do I pull the trigger on an HD7870? It's $270 on Newegg, with a $30 mail-in rebate, a 10% off code, and a copy of Sleeping Dogs that I should be able to sell. I have an i5 2500K and 8GB of RAM, and I'd be upgrading from a GTX 260.
Power supply is an older Antec 550W... Is that enough?
Bite on that.
So everything's configured and I'm all up and running.
1 problem. I have a USB game pad, a Santek P880 (I don't have a wireless Microsoft receiver yet), and I can't seem to configure my controls in Spec Ops: The Line on Steam.
Am I doing something wrong or do games not have a controller setup or is it something I need to do within Steam somehow?
1 problem. I have a USB game pad, a Santek P880 (I don't have a wireless Microsoft receiver yet), and I can't seem to configure my controls in Spec Ops: The Line on Steam.
Am I doing something wrong or do games not have a controller setup or is it something I need to do within Steam somehow?
Oh yeah. I'm comfortable with 98C. The TJunction is up there. Ha. It's a $300 CPU. Not too worried. BTW - Prime95 is junk for CPU stability. IntelBurnTest!
EDIT: man these i7 3820s are stealth! Super awesome CPUs. They're like having an i5 2500k all over again - up to 4.7 GHz at 1.40V and rockin'!
Those should plug on the motherboard. They are the wires for the front panel lights and power switch.
If you post your Motherboard name, we can probably find the right placement. It should be a small grid of pins where you plug all the plugs.
Jzero
Member
hemtae
Member
With water, you could make that 1.5. *evil cackle*
Dremel with grinder and cutter. Jigsaw would help a ton for making it cleaner to start with. Cleanly done and unnoticeable? 6. Done well enough? 2.
If you won't be playing games on all three, just about anything with three outputs will do fine.
Otherwise, think 2x7950, 2x7970, 2x670, 2x680, 690, 7990.
Unless I've made a mistake, this should be your MB front panel grid:
Taken from your manual here: http://download.biostar.com.tw/upload/Manual/IZ77A-AHT & IZ75A-AHT_120509_B.zip
GruntOfAction
Member
Well the CPU I ordered won't even run on my pc. Called newegg support and asked if I could return it and get a same priced compatible processor in exchange. Long story short: no. So now I have to find a compatible 4 core CPU at 95 tdp for 90 bucks somewhere besides Newegg.
hemtae
Member
Ugh, that's what I get for not reading the manual carefully enough. Thanks.
My i5 750 is starting to feel a bit weak, I've had it clocked at 2.8 normal, 3.4 turbo for as long as I've had it and it doesn't want to go much higher. Anyone had any luck with these or are they crappy OCers?
I don't think it's holding me back in games at 1920x1080 so I'll probably just wait for Haswell and not bother trying to wring any more performance out of it.
I don't think it's holding me back in games at 1920x1080 so I'll probably just wait for Haswell and not bother trying to wring any more performance out of it.
Jzero
Member
You should ALWAYS look at the socket type before buying.
Jzero
Member
That motherboard supports 64 GB if that's what you're asking.
Yea, but I'm not sure there's enough slots if I use Samsung ram.
Jzero
Member
Wouldn't it be 32 Gb?
so how normal would be for the 670 to do this whine electrical kinda noise (not really coil whine.. or at least in my experience that's more of a high pitch) directly depending on what's happening on screen?
im playin BF3 at smooth 60fps just fine and the card works great, but for example if im a dark area I can barely hear any whine, but as soon as I go out to the sun the bzzzzzzzzzz starts. Not fan noise
im playin BF3 at smooth 60fps just fine and the card works great, but for example if im a dark area I can barely hear any whine, but as soon as I go out to the sun the bzzzzzzzzzz starts. Not fan noise
They OC well!
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/36609-p55-overclocking-guide-beginners.html
Turbo only matters in single threaded applications. D3 and SC2 are the only games off the top of my head that use a single thread.
You should be able to get to 3.8-4.2 fairly easily, and it'll compare very well with a SB/IB chip at the same frequency.
Yep, that's coil whine. It's really hit or miss depending on the card and what is happening on the screen. Try the lowest possible settings in Metro and see if it does it. I know that my 5870 had some major coil whine during the STALKER menus, but only during those. I just ordered a FTW non-LE 670 and I really hope I don't have that. :|
In short, coil whine is terrible, almost every card can be affected by it and I don't know how to prevent it.
Yep, that's coil whine. It's really hit or miss depending on the card and what is happening on the screen. Try the lowest possible settings in Metro and see if it does it. I know that my 5870 had some major coil whine during the STALKER menus, but only during those. I just ordered a FTW non-LE 670 and I really hope I don't have that. :|
In short, coil whine is terrible, almost every card can be affected by it and I don't know how to prevent it.
I guess it is coil whine, but a lower pitch that im used to.. it certainly does it when the FPS go nuts to like the 1000s during loading screens and whatnot, so yeah
fucking bummer, man :/ I had awful coil whine with my 560ti but that turned out to be the PSU since after exchanging it it just went away, now it's back with a vengeance
not sure what to do here :|, this is the main reason why spending $720 on a card over here is a huge bummer
Hehe, alright thanks I will look into this. It has 4 ports on one controller so I should be able to RAID them in the way that you describe. I have definitely read some concerns about the boot drive being on these 3rd party controllers though, on this specific motherboard, so will have to go back and take a look at those forum threads that Google turned up.
If the difference between 2 and 4 RAIDed SSDs is minimal for a 'normal workload' then it shouldn't be an issue if I end up having 4 on two different controllers to make two RAID0 stripes, should it? If the option is there I'd of course like to go as fast as possible with 4 SSDs, I am just trying to justify a minimal noticeable increase in speed vs the extra risk of one drive failure taking down my whole system.
Edit, also is striping 4 SSDs of different capacity into the same RAID 0 as effective as if they were all the same capacity? Are there any drawbacks to it at all or is the capacity of the individual drives more or less irrelevant?
Okay, so I basically want to at least look for a reseller to have a higher chance of the card having the EVBot port - any way to find out if it does before purchase? Surely it's not a case of only finding out after opening the box or something. I'm not sure how much this bothers me right now anyway, but I of course would like the version which would give me better options with over clocking later on.
So I went overkill a little? What is the most suitable wattage for my build, or even better, specific recommendations? I took a look at those PSU calculator web services that are available but I wouldn't trust myself with entering the correct information into it, especially since it had overclocking options and a bunch of other things that I don't have a precise idea about yet.
I am planning to SLI at least 2x GTX680s, but it will almost certainly be a while until I consider buying another (but I am 90% sure I will be), so need to factor that in also. Ideally I'd be running 4 but, who has that kind of money! *ignores post #33*
I will also be overclocking.
RAID whatever way you think best for your workflow. Performance wise one fast ssd vs 4 raid 0 isnt going to make that much difference. Simplicity is often better and its much more likely one drive of 4 will fail than 1 single drive on its own failing.
PSU? yeah its overkill. I have a i7-930 that Ive pushed to 1.45v, 2 GTX680s, 1 GTX470, two cold cathode tubes, a bajillion fans, 6 hard drives, and will be adding a water pump, Aquaero controller and more fans on a 1000W. You can look at the 1000W Platinum seasonic if you want a really efficient PSU. That 1200W was made for the era of 4 GTX480s.
Or think 3 or 4 680s. 2 isnt enough for BF3!
Higher end cards are more susceptible to coil whine. It's the nature of the beast unfortunately.
My old cheapy PSU did it, the Vapor-X with special diamond-whatevers (to lessen coil whine) did it, and my 7950 OC edition has coil whine.
Some hope for you, the coil whine coming from my new 7950 has gotten better after a few weeks of use. So some cases of coil whine can go away after extended use I guess.
This is slight off-topic but it relates to my newish PC .. I have a logitech G15 keyboard and the tab key doesn't "stick" but it doesn't bounce back up like the other keys, can I just buy another tab key or how's that work?
I cleaned under the key(s) and surrounding ones, but I'm assuming I'm going to need to pick up a whole new keyboard over the key?
I cleaned under the key(s) and surrounding ones, but I'm assuming I'm going to need to pick up a whole new keyboard over the key?
in BF3 + case on the floor + headphones (or even loud skeapers) = tolerable. Metro 2033 is kinda unbereable tho. I guess I could risk RMAing it but then again I could get one with even worse whine, and sadly going through these processes here isnt as easy as in the US since the cards are imported here. Last time I went through this they took my card and took a month and a half to replace..
need to think about this, but god dammit fucking bitch tit fuck DICK
I know importing is dicey, but what about friends from the US sending you an anonymous brown box with some bubble wrap, anti static bag that happens to have silicon and aluminum in it?
Yeah, that's another bummer part of membrane boards. You could try taking it apart to see if you can unstick the membrane.
Warranty is long out, how easy is it though? It's not sticking too bad, the key just doesn't "respond" as well as it should .. I'm sure it's going to get worse though.
I've found IBT to be pretty crappy, simply because it makes my CPU about 20 degrees hotter than it ever gets in a real usage situation... it's just completely unnecessary.
YianGaruga
Banned
I'm considering buying a 128GB SSD today (Samsung 830).
Is 128 GB enough for Windows + a few programs + a few Steam games? Or would you recommend going with a bigger drive?
I guess it is enough, I just want to know if someone got one and felt limited pretty fast or something.
Is 128 GB enough for Windows + a few programs + a few Steam games? Or would you recommend going with a bigger drive?
I guess it is enough, I just want to know if someone got one and felt limited pretty fast or something.
Jzero
Member
Use the SSD for the OS and a normal hard drive for other things.
legacyzero
Banned
Hmmmm..
Is there a reason why my NeoGAF user Highlighter just stopped working a couple days ago???
Cant figure out how to get it back on =/
EDIT: nvm, fixed it, greasemonkey must have updated and it deleted my name from the quotes.
Is there a reason why my NeoGAF user Highlighter just stopped working a couple days ago???
Cant figure out how to get it back on =/
EDIT: nvm, fixed it, greasemonkey must have updated and it deleted my name from the quotes.
If you disable hibernation, that'll save some space (roughly the size of your RAM).
But a few average size steam game is all you can do. I think the OP has links to tools to move steam files to a secondary HDD. Another thing you could do with Windows 8 is get another SSD in the future and add it to an abstract file system pool called storage spaces.
If you can afford it, get the 256 GB. Faster. If you cannot, just wait. Prices are dropping fairly fast. This drive was $300 just a few months ago, and it's regularly on sale for $200. I'm betting we'll see $150 or lower in early 2013 as this crosses the chasm into mainstream. Once it's that cheap, there is no reason besides mass storage to get a regular HDD. Samsung's SSD 830 is way more reliable and way faster than a normal HDD>
I got a 120 GB and with Win 7 and office and all my programs I have 75gb free. So you can probably squeeze a couple of games in there, but I find that having them on a regular second large drive is fast enough. I imagine I will hold out like this until I can get a 500GB-1TB SSD in a couple of years for a decent price.
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