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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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K

krae_man

Member
Quick question GAF.

I bet I know the answer to this but I'll double check how much was I screwed over?

I don't know anything about building PC's so I went to a guy my grandpa reccomended who can build them. He told me he would put in the parts I want from wherever is the cheapest online and then charge an extra $60 to put it together and install Windows 7.

So I took the standard parts list from this thread and went to him without telling what prices I expected to pay for all the parts and he kept quoting me prices exactly in line with what the thread said and in the end he came up with $600+ tax including him putting Windows 7 on it and building it. I thought that seemed like a great deal. I figured he would be making more then $60 off me because he had a merchant account with newegg or whatever and can get the parts cheaper then what he said they cost but that's totally fine. I wasn't expecting him to build the thing for free.

Anyway, I picked it up today and he said he gave me a newer better video card which was the 7750. while in the store I ran the comparrison and noticed he put in a cheaper video card to pad his profit margin a little bit and called him out on it. He told me to take the computer home and he would order the right card and put it in on Friday.

I figured okay fine, I caught him and the rest of the specs seemed right. The CPU is identical the Motherboard is exactly what I asked for and it has the 8gb of ram I asked for.

Unfortunately windows doesn't tell you how good the ram is. I just installed speccy and it says this: 8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)

Looks like he cheaped out on the RAM too.

Basically my question is. How much worse are these parts money? I don't know what kind of reaction I'm going to get out of him when I call him on this stuff. I need to decide if it's worth my time to fight him on it.

I think the price he gave me was a little on the low end for the specs I asked for ($574 vs $600 including windows and building it). So if offering him a little more money will get what I want, how much extra should I offer if it will get me the right parts?

I know he kind of scammed me a little bit but I also want this guy to be paid something for building the thing.

Any thoughts?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
The ram is running at 1333 :p

Speeds are halved in CPU-Z, as DDR doubles the effective speed. Anything past 1333 is an overclock, so might very well be 1600mhz RAM, but you have to manually set that in BIOS which is a piece of cake.
 
T

Thraktor

Member
krae_man said:
Quick question GAF.

I bet I know the answer to this but I'll double check how much was I screwed over?

I don't know anything about building PC's so I went to a guy my grandpa reccomended who can build them. He told me he would put in the parts I want from wherever is the cheapest online and then charge an extra $60 to put it together and install Windows 7.

So I took the standard parts list from this thread and went to him without telling what prices I expected to pay for all the parts and he kept quoting me prices exactly in line with what the thread said and in the end he came up with $600+ tax including him putting Windows 7 on it and building it. I thought that seemed like a great deal. I figured he would be making more then $60 off me because he had a merchant account with newegg or whatever and can get the parts cheaper then what he said they cost but that's totally fine. I wasn't expecting him to build the thing for free.

Anyway, I picked it up today and he said he gave me a newer better video card which was the 7750. while in the store I ran the comparrison and noticed he put in a cheaper video card to pad his profit margin a little bit and called him out on it. He told me to take the computer home and he would order the right card and put it in on Friday.

I figured okay fine, I caught him and the rest of the specs seemed right. The CPU is identical the Motherboard is exactly what I asked for and it has the 8gb of ram I asked for.

Unfortunately windows doesn't tell you how good the ram is. I just installed speccy and it says this: 8.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)

Looks like he cheaped out on the RAM too.

Basically my question is. How much worse are these parts money? I don't know what kind of reaction I'm going to get out of him when I call him on this stuff. I need to decide if it's worth my time to fight him on it.

I think the price he gave me was a little on the low end for the specs I asked for ($574 vs $600 including windows and building it). So if offering him a little more money will get what I want, how much extra should I offer if it will get me the right parts?

I know he kind of scammed me a little bit but I also want this guy to be paid something for building the thing.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that there are two different ways of reporting RAM speeds. Because all RAM these days is DDR (double data rate), it transfers data at twice the actual clock speed, so RAM is often advertised using double the actual clock speed. So, when you see RAM that claims to run at 1333MHz or 1600MHz or 1866MHz, the actual clock speed of the RAM is 666MHz or 800MHz or 933MHz or soforth. It appears that the tool you've got tells you the actual clock speed of the RAM rather than the more usual bullshit numbers we get, so you have RAM that would commonly be known as 1333MHz (or, more accurately, 1333MT/s), which is perfectly normal for a modern machine.

Edit: What mkenyon said.
Being pedantic, though, CPU-Z gives accurate speeds. The speeds commonly advertised are twice what they should be (what they're actually measuring are MT/s)[/pedant]
 
K

krae_man

Member
mkenyon said:
The ram is running at 1333 :p

Speeds are halved in CPU-Z, as DDR doubles the effective speed. Anything past 1333 is an overclock, so might very well be 1600mhz RAM, but you have to manually set that in BIOS which is a piece of cake.
Click to expand...

Okay, that makes me feel better. He said the ram he was giving me was "better Kingston memory with cooling something or other" on it. Initially I figured he was just offering me the RAM he had in stock and didn't want to order every single last part online and since this thread says pretty much any ram was fine I figured what he had would be fine. But him skimping on the video card had me worried.

Is there anything else I should look for with him skimping on to pad his bottom line?
 
K

krae_man

Member
mkenyon said:
You could open up the case and compare the part #'s with what you were quoted on.
Click to expand...

The CPU and Motherboard are both exactly what I asked for. The hard drive looks identical except it's 3gb/s instead of 6. I'm assuming that's not too big an issue?

Otherwise I just need to open it up and see if the power supply is what I asked and I'm good?
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, the 3GB/S vs 6GB/S is just marketing. It's almost guaranteed to be the same drive otherwise.

PSU would be the last one to check.
 
K

krae_man

Member
mkenyon said:
Yeah, the 3GB/S vs 6GB/S is just marketing. It's almost guaranteed to be the same drive otherwise.

PSU would be the last one to check.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks. If this guy doesn't follow through with his promise to give me the 6870 I asked for and I end up stuck with the 7750 it's not the worst thing in the world right?
 
G

GoldenEye 007

Member
After 5 long years, I think things are finally on the fritz with my current PC. Sure it seems like only one or two components are going out - looks to be the power supply more so than the motherboard, but this is pretty much an excuse to upgrade multiple components.

Since 2007, I've been running a:
Core2 Duo OC'd to 3.2ghz. I think it is an E6600
4GB DDR2 RAM @ like 1100MHz
8800GTX w/ 768MB RAM
EVGA nForce 680i SLI motherboard
OCZ GameXStream 700W PSU (apparently the expected life is like 3-4 years)
Seagate HDDs at 320GB each in RAID 0
Creative sound card - mid-range Fatality edition thing.

It has been great so far. It still have perfect performance for most tasks I do today. I don't game as much as I used to, and if so, it is mostly Source engine games which the beastly 8800 can usually more than handle. It has been through many moves throughout college and very heavy use plus constantly powered on especially early on but I think it is time for a change.

I'm going to keep the case and GPU - but mostly everything else will change.
In transit are:
intel i5 Ivy Bridge 3450
8GB GSkill RipJaw RAM @ 1600Mhz
ASUS P8B75-V LGA 1155 mobo
intel 330 series 120GB SSD

I plan on also keeping the HDDs and doing a RAID mirror setup for storage while using the SSD for Win8 and performance critical program installation (games/creative suite mainly). Should be a good modern upgrade. So if I need to upgrade GPUs, it'll make more sense. I just didn't want to dump more money into the previous build.

Edit: It's funny. The only think Newegg still sells from my original build is that monster Zalman heatsink/fan combo. That's staying too as it works with the intel socket I'm moving to and still gets damn good reviews.
 
C

Calidor

Member
Help me GAF! I just built my first gaming PC and I'm only getting a black screen on my first boot.

Power seems ok, all fans are running (including gpu's), hard drive starts spinning, usb devices are on. no beeps whatsoever
It just runs for arounds 30 seconds, then does a quick shut down and all the fans starts running idle.

What is going on? :( I'm so desperate right now (I have a Asus P8Z77-V LK btw)
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Calidor said:
Help me GAF! I just built my first gaming PC and I'm only getting a black screen on my first boot.

Power seems ok, all fans are running (including gpu's), hard drive starts spinning, usb devices are on. no beeps whatsoever
It just runs for arounds 30 seconds, then does a quick shut down and all the fans starts running idle.

What is going on? :( I'm so desperate right now (I have a Asus P8Z77-V LK btw)
Click to expand...
Run through this list first: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
GoldenEye 007 said:
After 5 long years, I think things are finally on the fritz with my current PC. Sure it seems like only one or two components are going out - looks to be the power supply more so than the motherboard, but this is pretty much an excuse to upgrade multiple components.

Since 2007, I've been running a:
Core2 Duo OC'd to 3.2ghz. I think it is an E6600
4GB DDR2 RAM @ like 1100MHz
8800GTX w/ 768MB RAM
EVGA nForce 680i SLI motherboard
OCZ GameXStream 700W PSU (apparently the expected life is like 3-4 years)
Seagate HDDs at 320GB each in RAID 0
Creative sound card - mid-range Fatality edition thing.

It has been great so far. It still have perfect performance for most tasks I do today. I don't game as much as I used to, and if so, it is mostly Source engine games which the beastly 8800 can usually more than handle. It has been through many moves throughout college and very heavy use plus constantly powered on especially early on but I think it is time for a change.

I'm going to keep the case and GPU - but mostly everything else will change.
In transit are:
intel i5 Ivy Bridge 3450
8GB GSkill RipJaw RAM @ 1600Mhz
ASUS P8B75-V LGA 1155 mobo
intel 330 series 120GB SSD

I plan on also keeping the HDDs and doing a RAID mirror setup for storage while using the SSD for Win8 and performance critical program installation (games/creative suite mainly). Should be a good modern upgrade. So if I need to upgrade GPUs, it'll make more sense. I just didn't want to dump more money into the previous build.

Edit: It's funny. The only think Newegg still sells from my original build is that monster Zalman heatsink/fan combo. That's staying too as it works with the intel socket I'm moving to and still gets damn good reviews.
Click to expand...
Will be a great upgrade. Any reason to not get a 3570K and a Z77 board for just a touch more?
 
B

BeEatNU

WORLDSTAAAAAAR
kennah said:
552650_270589816376302_2045814951_n.jpg


I want this one to come out.

NFC S3

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums...Chassis-(100-aluminum-ITX-and-made-in-America)

EDIT: I'm dumb, you said mATX, not MiniITX
Click to expand...

I would totally change to a MiniITX if this was avail for sell lol.
 
G

GoldenEye 007

Member
Hazaro said:
Run through this list first: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

Will be a great upgrade. Any reason to not get a 3570K and a Z77 board for just a touch more?
Click to expand...
Well it looks like that CPU would be about $50 more and the board.. I don't know. I don't intend to get into the overclocking game really anymore at this point - so that 3570K probably wouldn't be too worth it for me.

I honestly didn't do too much research on the Z77. What's the big advantage?

Edit: Seems it is mainly more overclocking friendly compared to the B75 chipset.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
GoldenEye 007 said:
Well it looks like that CPU would be about $50 more and the board.. I don't know. I don't intend to get into the overclocking game really anymore at this point - so that 3570K probably wouldn't be too worth it for me.

I honestly didn't do too much research on the Z77. What's the big advantage?

Edit: Seems it is mainly more overclocking friendly compared to the B75 chipset.
Click to expand...
I'd say 'allows' real overclocking ;). A nice 4.2-4.4Ghz on all cores is a solid boost.

The extra clock speed really can help on what you are doing, but isn't needed in average use. I sure am thankful though when I'm streaming video, or am in a really unoptimized part of a game.

Though the best buy is a used 2600K for ~$230 USD. I'll be holding onto mine for a long while.
 
G

GoldenEye 007

Member
Hazaro said:
I'd say 'allows' real overclocking ;). A nice 4.2-4.4Ghz on all cores is a solid boost.

The extra clock speed really can help on what you are doing, but isn't needed in average use. I sure am thankful though when I'm streaming video, or am in a really unoptimized part of a game.

Though the best buy is a used 2600K for ~$230 USD. I'll be holding onto mine for a long while.
Click to expand...

That is pretty impressive. I know with my C2D it came stock at like 2.4GHz and I have been running it at about 3.1-3.2GHz for 5 years. Still runs like a champ.

Either way, it'll be a really nice boost for me and I'll bide my time on a GPU should it be necessary going forward. Like I said, my gaming is mostly Source-based (HL2/Portal/CounterStrike). Other than that it's watching videos and internet with the possible firing up of Adobe CS.
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
GoldenEye 007 said:
That is pretty impressive. I know with my C2D it came stock at like 2.4GHz and I have been running it at about 3.1-3.2GHz for 5 years. Still runs like a champ.

Either way, it'll be a really nice boost for me and I'll bide my time on a GPU should it be necessary going forward. Like I said, my gaming is mostly Source-based (HL2/Portal/CounterStrike). Other than that it's watching videos and internet with the possible firing up of Adobe CS.
Click to expand...
You'll be golden. Enjoy.
 
J

JustProgress

Member
So I've waited a while and no R4's have come through on Amazon Prime. Like I've said before my 600T is just too loud for my tastes, so can anyone recommend my a good, silent PC? I really want the R4, but looking to use my 200$ in Amazon credit for the purchase.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Alright, got the blocks installed, in the middle of leak testing. Some in progress Galaxy Note pics (left the DSLR at work).

AoysWh.jpg


UNSuih.jpg


0hnoQh.jpg


JustProgress said:
So I've waited a while and no R4's have come through on Amazon Prime. Like I've said before my 600T is just too loud for my tastes, so can anyone recommend my a good, silent PC? I really want the R4, but looking to use my 200$ in Amazon credit for the purchase.
Click to expand...
I can recommend doing some things with your 600T that would be less expensive than buying a new case. Sound dampening can help, but there's nothing more important to how loud a case is than fans.

1) Cut out all of the plastic mesh on the front and top detachable grilles. You will need to bend back the metal tabs holding the metal to the plastic frame. You can leave a single cross section if you want to have it stay sturdy.

2) Remove middle HDD bay, relocate the bottom HDD bay next to the PSU

3) Replace top 200mm and rear fan with three Corsair AF 120 Quiet Editions.

4) Replace front 200mm fan with a BitFenix Spectre Pro and use an inline voltage reducer to like 7V.

Try it out before you replace the case. It made it livable with me. Still suffers from negative air pressure, which means dirtier and warmer temps, but that's not really a big deal unless you're a perfectionist.

Some other options (if available on Amazon): Corsair 550D, BitFenix Ghost. Those are the only other two I'd suggest, and I'd spring for the Ghost over the 550D.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Nah, that's in like a month so I have another excuse to rebuild. Lot of work will need to be done, from cutting to powdercoating.
 
M

megarockexe

Member
I've been meaning to replace my unreliable GT220 with something mid- to high-end without spending more than about $150. I'm considering either a GTX 560, if it's still available at a decent price, or a GTX 650, because it also seems fine. How are the prices around this time usually like? How long should I wait before upgrading?
 
C

Calidor

Member
I

ithorien

Member
Calidor said:
THANK YOU!! It turns out that I didnt have my speaker set up, so I wasnt able to diagnose the problem properly.

Everything is running smooth now :)

Btw whats the usual speed on the samsung 830? I did a speed test with that crystal app and got something like 265 mb/s on sequential write/read
I'm using factory firmware/settings though
Click to expand...

Mine's close to 500/500. Right port? Right driver? Optimized? Aligned?

mkenyon said:
I can recommend doing some things with your 600T that would be less expensive than buying a new case. Sound dampening can help, but there's nothing more important to how loud a case is than fans.
Click to expand...

I have an R3 with a 212+ and not a 600T, but what would you say most optimal fan setup would be for the case? I still remember the recommendation for the Corsairs from pages back but if YOU had to replace all fans, I wanna know what they'd be.
 
B

beje

Banned
megarockexe said:
I've been meaning to replace my unreliable GT220 with something mid- to high-end without spending more than about $150. I'm considering either a GTX 560, if it's still available at a decent price, or a GTX 650, because it also seems fine. How are the prices around this time usually like? How long should I wait before upgrading?
Click to expand...

Unless you absolutely need Nvidia features, for that price I'd either go for an HD 7770 or stretch it a little bit for a 1GB HD 7850, which will give you a lot more powerhouse for barely 10-20 extra bucks above your budget.

Edit: taking into account the confusion about GPU numbering (for example, the 560 in your list is way better than a 650), the best option is to check this tier list: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107-7.html and get the highest you can within your budget.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Zeliard said:
mkenyon build me a 'puter
Click to expand...
Okay. As I've said, I offer my services for free to GAFers.
ithorien said:
I have an R3 with a 212+ and not a 600T, but what would you say most optimal fan setup would be for the case? I still remember the recommendation for the Corsairs from pages back but if YOU had to replace all fans, I wanna know what they'd be.
Click to expand...
Noiseblocker eloops errewhere. Two in the front, one in the top, one in the rear, one on the 212+.

But, they are prohibitively expensive. Enough for me to skip on them in my build. For 7 fans, I was looking at nearly $200.

Barring those, I'm happy with the Spectre Pro's in mine.
Piercedveil said:
Your builds always look so good!
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
T

Tau

Member
GUYS need your help here... I know some of you guys had already advised me to do a hard wired connection to my router to get a stable signal for online gaming.. however I've been doing some research on both wireless and modem routers as I need to invest in one anyway.

I currently have a wireless Netgear DG834GT ADSL (108mbps, 802.11g, 2.4ghz) had it since 2007. I've been researching on the following routers (below) and I've read many mixed reviews on all models... now I'm just confused to the max. Can you guys help me funnel down my list...maybe some of you guys have experience in some of the models below...


1. ASUS RT-N66U - 900Mbps Dual Band Wireless N Router, Gigabit LAN/WAN (£112.16)

2. Belkin Play Max Dual Band Wireless NN+ Router (£77.82)

3. Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router (£89.95)

4. Linksys by Cisco E3200 (£83.98)


from the list I'm aware not all of them are modem routers meaning I'll have to keep my old modem router to bridge a connection to the a new router that then sends signals to my devices?
 
T

Tomodachi

Member
Tau said:
GUYS need your help here... I know some of you guys had already advised me to do a hard wired connection to my router to get a stable signal for online gaming.. however I've been doing some research on both wireless and modem routers as I need to invest in one anyway.

I currently have a wireless Netgear DG834GT ADSL (108mbps, 802.11g, 2.4ghz) had it since 2007. I've been researching on the following routers (below) and I've read many mixed reviews on all models... now I'm just confused to the max. Can you guys help me funnel down my list...maybe some of you guys have experience in some of the models below...


1. ASUS RT-N66U - 900Mbps Dual Band Wireless N Router, Gigabit LAN/WAN (£112.16)

2. Belkin Play Max Dual Band Wireless NN+ Router (£77.82)

3. Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router (£89.95)

4. Linksys by Cisco E3200 (£83.98)


from the list I'm aware not all of them are modem routers meaning I'll have to keep my old modem router to bridge a connection to the a new router that then sends signals to my devices?
Click to expand...

I replaced a DG834G (basically yours, but an older version) last month with a D-Link DSL-2740B. It's a router with an integrated ADSL2+ modem just like your Netgear, but it supports N wifi standard. As far as I know it's pretty good but you won't benefit from devices which don't support N themselves, they'll still use a G (slower) connection. But it could improve the strength of your signal I think.
 
G

garath

Member
mkenyon said:
I can recommend doing some things with your 600T that would be less expensive than buying a new case. Sound dampening can help, but there's nothing more important to how loud a case is than fans.

1) Cut out all of the plastic mesh on the front and top detachable grilles. You will need to bend back the metal tabs holding the metal to the plastic frame. You can leave a single cross section if you want to have it stay sturdy.

2) Remove middle HDD bay, relocate the bottom HDD bay next to the PSU

3) Replace top 200mm and rear fan with three Corsair AF 120 Quiet Editions.

4) Replace front 200mm fan with a BitFenix Spectre Pro and use an inline voltage reducer to like 7V.

Try it out before you replace the case. It made it livable with me. Still suffers from negative air pressure, which means dirtier and warmer temps, but that's not really a big deal unless you're a perfectionist.

Some other options (if available on Amazon): Corsair 550D, BitFenix Ghost. Those are the only other two I'd suggest, and I'd spring for the Ghost over the 550D.
Click to expand...

Some good thoughts here. My Corsair 650D has some vibration problems that involve me unlatching the side panel to stop the vibrations. I've been trying everything to dampen the case as is but I may end up trying some new fans to solve the problem. I love the case otherwise. Just hate the vibrations. I've read my case is very similar to the 600T. Might suffer the same problems.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
It's the same case with a different shell.

Ultimately the airflow situation makes it a pretty flawed design. With Corsair QC Being what it is, you end up with all sorts of little niggles.

Id try replacing the fans in your 650D and get some good rubber bushings for them. Part of the reason I like the Corsair AF/SP fans is that they have bushings built in.

Also try to reduce mechanical HDD vibrations with some bushings not only on the HDDs, but on the cage itself where it mounts to the case. I noticed a reduction when I moved the cage to the lower position next to the PSU.
 
G

garath

Member
mkenyon said:
It's the same case with a different shell.

Ultimately the airflow situation makes it a pretty flawed design. With Corsair QC Being what it is, you end up with all sorts of little niggles.

Id try replacing the fans in your 650D and get some good rubber bushings for them. Part of the reason I like the Corsair AF/SP fans is that they have bushings built in.

Also try to reduce mechanical HDD vibrations with some bushings not only on the HDDs, but on the cage itself where it mounts to the case. I noticed a reduction when I moved the cage to the lower position next to the PSU.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions. I have 2 200mm fans and 1 120mm. Looking at:

2 of these -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OWPN4K/?tag=neogaf0e-20

1 of these -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESG3A/?tag=neogaf0e-20

As per your previous post suggestion. Temps are good in my case so really getting rid of the vibrations is the number 1 priority. Wish the bitfenix was a little cheaper though.
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
I'd avoid the LED ones. It makes a terrible flickering noise when you under volt it, which you will want to do to make the noise tolerable.

I'd also go with two 120s on the top instead of a 200.
 
G

garath

Member
mkenyon said:
I'd avoid the LED ones. It makes a terrible flickering noise when you under volt it, which you will want to do to make the noise tolerable.

I'd also go with two 120s on the top instead of a 200.
Click to expand...

Sounds good.

front -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OWPFUM/?tag=neogaf0e-20

rear -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESG3A/?tag=neogaf0e-20

top -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESG7G/?tag=neogaf0e-20

$66 :( harsh. Disappointing that I even have to go these lengths. And no guarantee this even solves the problem. sigh
 
Manp

Manp

Member
Tau said:
GUYS need your help here... I know some of you guys had already advised me to do a hard wired connection to my router to get a stable signal for online gaming.. however I've been doing some research on both wireless and modem routers as I need to invest in one anyway.

I currently have a wireless Netgear DG834GT ADSL (108mbps, 802.11g, 2.4ghz) had it since 2007. I've been researching on the following routers (below) and I've read many mixed reviews on all models... now I'm just confused to the max. Can you guys help me funnel down my list...maybe some of you guys have experience in some of the models below...


1. ASUS RT-N66U - 900Mbps Dual Band Wireless N Router, Gigabit LAN/WAN (£112.16)

2. Belkin Play Max Dual Band Wireless NN+ Router (£77.82)

3. Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router (£89.95)

4. Linksys by Cisco E3200 (£83.98)


from the list I'm aware not all of them are modem routers meaning I'll have to keep my old modem router to bridge a connection to the a new router that then sends signals to my devices?
Click to expand...

if you're willing to get your hands dirty get a Netgear WNDR3800 running Openwrt and an ethernet router.
afaik you can't set your router to modem only (completely disabling NAT) so it would be better to get an ethernet router that can work in bridged mode or pppoe.

:)
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
For what it is worth, those case fans will last you a long while and are awesome. Next case you get will definitely appreciate them.
 
G

garath

Member
mkenyon said:
For what it is worth, those case fans will last you a long while and are awesome. Next case you get will definitely appreciate them.
Click to expand...

Well I pulled the trigger. I had to. The vibrations piss me off and I know the fans in that case are crap. Hopefully this will let me love my case again. Last case I had was a Lian Li I used for 10 years. I don't buy cases often.
 
L

Leckan

Member
Repost from another thread:

Anyone have opinions with the S2440L vs 2412M especially regarding glossyness vs anti-glare filter?
 
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Not open for further replies.

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