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"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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GeoNeo

I disagree.
Probably an Apple zealot.

Which is pretty silly in my books because even apple themselves source Samsung parts. I know for damn well the Samsung ram, display, & ssd in my new 15" Macbook Retina kicks ass while the LG sourced displays suffer from image retention.
 
Which is pretty silly in my books because even apple themselves source Samsung parts. I know for damn well the Samsung ram, display, & ssd in my new 15" Macbook Retina kicks ass while the LG sourced displays suffer from image retention.

Yea i don't think its that also because of what you said.

if it is though then LOL
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Current Decision:
i5 3570k
H77
HD7850
Migrating over my WD 1TB HDD
Phantom 410
Random Optical Drive
Netgear or Linksys Wi-Fi adapter
Windows 7
No monitor

Qustions:
-What's the difference between the Crucial M4 and Samsung 830?
-Any advice on Bluetooth cards as well as Bluetooth keyboard/mouse would be appreciated.
-What other parts might I need?

SSD wise go for the Samsung 830 and get a Z77 mobo for the ability to overclock otherwise no point getting an unlocked CPU.

Looks to me like Z77s are twice the price. Why?
 

mkenyon

Banned
They have to be built with better capacitors, phase power control, and high end VRMs to allow for overclocking. Not all Z77s are twice the price. There are models in the OP in the $100-120 range.
Need a new hard drive, any recommendations?

Already checked the OP but it doesn't say if I should grab a WD Black or Blue.
Cav Blues if its not a drive that needs to be dead reliable. Cav Black for more reliability and speed, but they are loud. RE4s for highest reliability. Reds if you are going to have a NAS solution.

Also, @RedSwirl, have you read the OP? It lists all the parts you need. Unlikely that you will find people recommending Bluetooth Keyboards/mice in here. Too laggy for gaming.

Look at the Logitech Illuminated Wireless and one of their mice. I don't like most Logitech stuff, but they do seem to offer the best wireless options.
 

Smokey

Member
Streaming while playing 360 online... Recording in 1080p at the same time to my HDD.. no problem for the 4.6ghz 2600k

<3
 

longdi

Banned
Hey all, those looking for W8 cheap, Microsoft is doing a EA origin and offering it for low price of $15... for anyone. check out slickdeals for more details.
 

AkIRA_22

Member
Not to poo on your parade, but the window is total garbage. Have it on my R4 and its the worst quality plastic possible. Its that really staticy plastic that grabs every bit of dust possible. It also scratches when you breathe on it. Already replaced mine with a piece of acrylic.

I've seen some bad windows in my day (and not the Vista kind), this one takes the cake.

Might be worth it just for the panel itself. Mounting acrylic on there is as simple as grabbing some 3M Extreme Mounting tape.

aaaahhhhhh shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiet. Thanks for the heads up, didn't realise is wasn't acrylic.
 
Will having two monitors running at the same resolution be less taxing than two that are different? I've got one that is 1920x1080 and another that is 1280x1024 and I was wondering if the change in aspect ratios eats more resources than having two at the same resolution would.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Will having two monitors running at the same resolution be less taxing than two that are different? I've got one that is 1920x1080 and another that is 1280x1024 and I was wondering if the change in aspect ratios eats more resources than having two at the same resolution would.
Running normal stuff? Doesn't matter at all. It's so minimal.
 

Cronen

Member
I need to ask GAF for PC technical help, my computer seems to be fucking up and I need advice. Is this an ok thread to post in, or is there a specific PC Help thread?

Many thanks.
 

Xdrive05

Member

I paid $100 for mine 2 months ago, and that was on sale... oof.

FYI for those interested... with Win 7 Ultimate SP1 and the standard suite of power-user programs installed, and with all OS updates, you're looking at about 92-94GB of free space left to work with. And that's plenty if you manage your storage.

If you don't have an SSD, and you pass this up at $69, well, you're doing it wrong.
 

Row

Banned
I've got a question that's about as beginner as it gets: what do you do after you've built your pc?

Given how little I know, I'd imagine as long as everything is connected properly you turn on the pc and the bios pops up a guides you in installing an os into whatever drive you select. is that at all accurate?
 

Cronen

Member
I'll just write my problem below.

So about a month ago I got a new video card and new RAM. I installed both and since installing both that my PC has had one major issue.

When I turn the PC on, it lights up, the hard drive starts whirling, etc. However, my monitor says "HDMI Power Save Mode". I also notice that my mouse doesn't light up.

To work around this, I have to turn the PC off, and back on again. The PC then works fine. However, this is now becoming frustrating, and I cant imagine its healthy for the machine either.

I have tried:

Trying a different monitor
Trying a different HDMI cable
Trying my old video card
Reseating the CMOS battery
Reseating all internal cables, RAM, video card,
etc.

The problem still occurs. Now I'm completely stumped, and its bugging the hell out of me. I want to get this fixed.

GAF, please help me!
 

AkIRA_22

Member
so is this an upgrade iso you burn to disc? like can I install it with no key, then upgrade over that install like you could with windows 7?

You can do it via straight download upgrade, which runs through a program called 'windows 8 updater' it will do it right there on your desktop. you can also burn the disc and do it the old school way.

I just ran the program... worked fine.
 
I'll just write my problem below.

So about a month ago I got a new video card and new RAM. I installed both and since installing both that my PC has had one major issue.

When I turn the PC on, it lights up, the hard drive starts whirling, etc. However, my monitor says "HDMI Power Save Mode". I also notice that my mouse doesn't light up.

To work around this, I have to turn the PC off, and back on again. The PC then works fine. However, this is now becoming frustrating, and I cant imagine its healthy for the machine either.

I have tried:

Trying a different monitor
Trying a different HDMI cable
Trying my old video card
Reseating the CMOS battery
Reseating all internal cables, RAM, video card,
etc.

The problem still occurs. Now I'm completely stumped, and its bugging the hell out of me. I want to get this fixed.

GAF, please help me!
There are lot of causes for that to happen.
I had the same problem a few months back and it happened to be one of my RAM sticks was causing it. I removed it and everything's fine now.
 

Moonkeis

Member
I'm about to get the new build started tomorrow but I wanted some suggestions on how I should set up the fans.

I'm using the NZXT Source 210 case. Should I go with 2 intake fans in the front, and a additional fan for the top of the case to draw air out?
 

Binabik15

Member
Hey guys, my brother's pc just came back from the vendor where we bought the parts, after the 2 6950s had some weird effects since last summer when we built it. A really big perk from this store is that they'll check your pc for you for free and repair it when you bought the parts from them, even when you built it yourself.

Anyway, it came back with two XFX 7870 Double Dissipation cards instead of his XFX 6950s.

That's a pretty nice upgrade from what I've just googled, isn't it? I can't find benches for BF3 and other powerhouse games for the non-Black Edition version, though.

Because I'm thinking if the inherent troubles of crossfiring and added heat are worth it at 1050p (monitor)/1080p (tv) or if I should rip one of the cards out (and selflessly install it in my own pc to replace my 5850). The Black edition seems to be good for OCing, same with the non-Blacks?


The rest of his built are a i5 2500k, 4 gigs of 1600 DDR3, an Asrock p67 Extreme 4 and a big enough PSU to power the cards, so no promblem there.
 

Cronen

Member
There are lot of causes for that to happen.
I had the same problem a few months back and it happened to be one of my RAM sticks was causing it. I removed it and everything's fine now.

Thanks for replying.

Removed both sticks of RAM, and same problem.


Edit: Took all the RAM out and put only one of the old sticks in, and it may have booted up fine first time. Hmmm. Progress.
 

Tomodachi

Member
I'm about to get the new build started tomorrow but I wanted some suggestions on how I should set up the fans.

I'm using the NZXT Source 210 case. Should I go with 2 intake fans in the front, and a additional fan for the top of the case to draw air out?
I'm interested in this too. I'm getting a Bitfenix Merc Alpha on monday with a preinstalled back fan (I think on exhaust), where should I put my other case fan (enermax something something) and which direction should the heatsink (hyper 212 EVO) face? Also, dumb question here, how do I know if a fan is actually putting air outside or inside the case? I always get confused and have to use a thin paper sheet to ascertain this, lol.
 

gokieks

Member
I'm interested in this too. I'm getting a Bitfenix Merc Alpha on monday with a preinstalled back fan (I think on exhaust), where should I put my other case fan (enermax something something) and which direction should the heatsink (hyper 212 EVO) face? Also, dumb question here, how do I know if a fan is actually putting air outside or inside the case? I always get confused and have to use a thin paper sheet to ascertain this, lol.

CPU heatsink should be oriented so that the fans on it are directing air towards exhaust fan(s). As for fans, a lot of them will have an arrow on it to indicate direction of airflow.
 

Exuro

Member
Quick/random question. When it comes to drivers, if I switched from one nvidia card to another that uses the same driver would everything be fine and dandy to switching the two or would I need to uninstall, switch the card and reinstall?
 

MC RaZaR

Neo Member
Quick/random question. When it comes to drivers, if I switched from one nvidia card to another that uses the same driver would everything be fine and dandy to switching the two or would I need to uninstall, switch the card and reinstall?
It should be okay I believe, though it wouldn't hurt to be safe and just uninstall and reinstall the drivers.
 
Guys, I have a question and I hope you can help me out.

I built an i52500k, GTX570, 4GB RAM RIG about a year and half ago and I'm currently quite happy with it. Thing is, RAM is generic Kingston stuff, so I was thinking about upgrading it so I can get some more juice for gaming. I've heard good things about Corsair Vengeance and I was wondering what would you think, I'm good with 8GB.

Thanks in advance.
 

anachronous_one

Prologue Type S Alpha
What PSU is it you have?

Going from a 260 will be a really good jump, and this is before Anandtech update this comparison to factor in the new AMD drivers

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/549?vs=664
This is just a refurb HP tower with the same stock PSU and stock GTX 260 GPU that it originally came with when I bought it. I'll have to open it up and look at the PSU's label.

I just figured if the PSU could handle a relative power hog like the 260, it could easily handle the 7850 as a replacement.
 
Is Haswell expected to use DDR4 and will it arrive by mid 2013? If it will use DDR4 then is there any point in waiting for it over just going for Sandy/Ivy now since DDR4 will be several times more expensive than DDR3?
 

mkenyon

Banned
Guys, I have a question and I hope you can help me out.

I built an i52500k, GTX570, 4GB RAM RIG about a year and half ago and I'm currently quite happy with it. Thing is, RAM is generic Kingston stuff, so I was thinking about upgrading it so I can get some more juice for gaming. I've heard good things about Corsair Vengeance and I was wondering what would you think, I'm good with 8GB.

Thanks in advance.
Brands don't change speed. There's not a major point of having faster RAM outside of benchmarks and multimedia. The Samsung 30nm RAM can clock faster than $250 kits of Corsair/Mushkin high end RAM. So, get that if you must have fast RAM.

Also know that anything above 1333 is an over clock and will have to be over clocked manually.
Is Haswell expected to use DDR4 and will it arrive by mid 2013? If it will use DDR4 then is there any point in waiting for it over just going for Sandy/Ivy now since DDR4 will be several times more expensive than DDR3?
No, and supposedly March-May 2013.
 
Brands don't change speed. There's not a major point of having faster RAM outside of benchmarks and multimedia. The Samsung 30nm RAM can clock faster than $250 kits of Corsair/Mushkin high end RAM. So, get that if you must have fast RAM.

Also know that anything above 1333 is an over clock and will have to be over clocked manually.

No, and supposedly March-May 2013.
Good and that's a lot earlier than I was expecting. So at this point, you might as well wait for Haswell unless you're desperate for a new system.
 
I just assembled my first pc, and the power supply I chose is bothering the hell out of me. I used http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine to calculate the parts i went with and give me recommended of at least 425W with 3 fans and 5 usb devices,

than i used Aus calculator http://support.asus.com/powersupply.aspx and with the same set up and the parts below it suggested 600 W minimum.

Than i read over time that psu looses efficiency over years and to add (20%-30% on bottom of extreme website)

So should i return the 550 and get a 650w just in case?

I booted without a problem and this pc is a monster I was ruining bastion and hot pursuit on high and didn't even budge compered to my old pc was about to explode..

thank you for any suggestions!

EDT: also really happy with the performance so far so no overclocking will be done on CPU


CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card ($317.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
 

longdi

Banned
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202008

7970 3GB for $349 with 3 games.
No reason to get a 660Ti.

moh%201920%20off.png
 
Anybody care to give me some advice? I just built my new rig over the weekend, and everything is running great, except that my secondary hard drive isn't getting recognized by Windows. I have the ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 motherboard and a WD 1 TB Caviar Blue HDD. When I go into the BIOS, instead of showing 'Not Detected' in the SATA port, it's completely blank, with a type of 'Unknown' and a size of '0.0 GB'. It's also not showing up in the Disk Management section of Windows, so I can't even try to format it. I know the SATA cable works because I'm using it with my optical drive right now with no problems. The HDD spins and clicks like it should, so I really have no clue what the problem is here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

kharma45

Member
This is just a refurb HP tower with the same stock PSU and stock GTX 260 GPU that it originally came with when I bought it. I'll have to open it up and look at the PSU's label.

I just figured if the PSU could handle a relative power hog like the 260, it could easily handle the 7850 as a replacement.

Sounds like it should be fine but check what it is first just to be safe.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I just assembled my first pc, and the power supply I chose is bothering the hell out of me. I used http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine to calculate the parts i went with and give me recommended of at least 425W with 3 fans and 5 usb devices,

than i used Aus calculator http://support.asus.com/powersupply.aspx and with the same set up and the parts below it suggested 600 W minimum.

Than i read over time that psu looses efficiency over years and to add (20%-30% on bottom of extreme website)

So should i return the 550 and get a 650w just in case?

I booted without a problem and this pc is a monster I was ruining bastion and hot pursuit on high and didn't even budge compered to my old pc was about to explode..

thank you for any suggestions!

EDT: also really happy with the performance so far so no overclocking will be done on CPU


CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB Video Card ($317.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
You are so in the clear. Your system is probably drawing like 200W on a game load. Decay doesn't really factor in for Gold units, they can be over drawn easily at lower efficiencies.
 
You are so in the clear. Your system is probably drawing like 200W on a game load. Decay doesn't really factor in for Gold units, they can be over drawn easily at lower efficiencies.
thank you sir! I will clean up my cables and post some pictures in a bit :D
 
Update on my friends 6950's.

One of them had the unlocked shaders with the flip of the bios switch. The other one was a no go. I could get the bios to flash using atiwin, but it wouldn't boot, just a blank screen. I tried using a bios that only unlocked the shaders, no overclocking, still no go. Oh well. Crossfire 6950's for $200 is an awesome price any way.
 

haikira

Member
GTX 580 blew up a few days ago and i'm shopping around for a replacement. Seeing the price difference between the states and here in the UK actually gives me heartburn. I need to stop clicking links in this thread.

Looking at something around 250-300 GBP that's the best upgrade from a 580. What would you guys recommend? I'm looking at this so far

Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 2 GB
Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 2 GB [TechPowerUp Review]

It's stretching the budget a little, but i was impressed with the review on techpowerup. I've always leaned towards Nvidia, but it's only due to brand loyalty and nothing else, so i'm willing to keep an open mind.
 
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