"I need a New PC!" 2012 Thread. Ivy, SSDs, and reading the OP. [Part 2]

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kennah said:
Sigh, there is no driver situation, hasn't been for years.
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some of us are just brand loyal though. i've never had an amd/ati card except for my laptop and i've only had one amd cpu lol. generally in the past 6 years, nvidia and intel have been better though. amd has a better price point right now though which is why i went with the 7850
 
DTKT said:
Are you sure about that 90C? That's really damn got for a CPU running at idle with a fan and the passive cooling for the heat block.

As for your current issue, check if the thermal paste spilled over.
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I checked, reapplied the paste. Still nothing. All fans turn on but there's no video from the mobo output. Would a bent pin be the result of this?
 
I can't believe I'll finally get my HD 7970! :D

But I'll have a HUGE bottleneck until I upgrade the rest of my rig... Phenom II X4 945 with 4GB of DDR2 800... =|

BTW how much is a used P5Q3 Deluxe worth? I got one here with no use... I'm thinking of selling it, it'll help me get money for my future i5 3570k :P



@ NoRéN

What's your rig? And PSU? It could be a bent pin, yes, just take the processor out of the socket and take a look...
 
Insane Metal said:
I can't believe I'll finally get my HD 7970! :D

But I'll have a HUGE bottleneck until I upgrade the rest of my rig... Phenom II X4 945 with 4GB of DDR2 800... =|

BTW how much is a used P5Q3 Deluxe worth? I got one here with no use... I'm thinking of selling it, it'll help me get money for my future i5 3570k :P
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Yeah OC the shit out of your 945!
 
NoRéN;45329983 said:
That's what i was thinking but I freaked.
I forgot to add, as I was about to turn off the PC, windows 7 popped up an alert that the cpu was overheating.

As for the second part, I'll do that right now. Thank you.
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Sounds like the thermal paste or the heatsink fell off. The i3 should be very easy to keep cool.
Don't worry about it killing itself, modern CPUs will throttle and then shut down.

Edit: Hope it was a stupid thing like forgetting to plug the CPU fan and not a bent pin :/


One thing about CPU temps and GPU temps for that matter. 100+ is when they fail (TJ max is 105 on most chips), but have anyone studied what difference it makes running a CPU at a high temp versus a low one.
Kinda unrelated, but Google did a big test with HDDs some years ago and surprisingly temp didn't play a big factor. With newer drives (2 or younger) the coldes ones (15-30) even had the highest failure rate.
 
So, I was thinking about getting a 670gtx.

I currently have a 570gtx, i5 2500k, 8 GB RAM.

My question is the upgrade worth it? Looking for a nice boost in newer games but, don't want a bottle neck. At the same time is the price justified? Willing to wait if the jump isn't worth it just yet.
 
Ty4on said:
Sounds like the thermal paste or the heatsink fell off. The i3 should be very easy to keep cool.
Don't worry about it killing itself, modern CPUs will throttle and then shut down.

Edit: Hope it was a stupid thing like forgetting to plug the CPU fan and not a bent pin :/


One thing about CPU temps and GPU temps for that matter. 100+ is when they fail (TJ max is 105 on most chips), but have anyone studied what difference it makes running a CPU at a high temp versus a low one.
Kinda unrelated, but Google did a big test with HDDs some years ago and surprisingly temp didn't play a big factor. With newer drives (2 or younger) the coldes ones (15-30) even had the highest failure rate.
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Everything was plugged in properly when I initially had it running.

I'm starting to think it's a bent pin. I removed the cpu again and sure enough there's a tiny spot that looks off. It's hard to explain as I do not have a magnifying glass but the pins have a pattern and there's a section where that pattern doesn't seem to continue. Fuck!
 
DeVeAn said:
So, I was thinking about getting a 670gtx.

I currently have a 570gtx, i5 2500k, 8 GB RAM.

My question is the upgrade worth it? Looking for a nice boost in newer games but, don't want a bottle neck. At the same time is the price justified? Willing to wait if the jump isn't worth it just yet.
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Depends on whether you deem a ~25%-30% jump in framerates is worth it. It'd cost roughly $200 (less if you sell the free AC3/Borderlands 2) if you sell off your 570 for ~$150 or so.
 
CatPee said:
Depends on whether you deem a ~25%-30% jump in framerates is worth it. It'd cost roughly $200 (less if you sell the free AC3/Borderlands 2) if you sell off your 570 for ~$150 or so.
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Hmm, well 30% doesn't seem that great...Well guess I wait for the next console to appear then re build my PC.
 
Is there a program that allows me to check the average CPU temperature? I currently use Core Temp but it only shows the highest/lowest.
 
Thanks for the link from the previous page. I think I'm going to pick up my mobo + free ram @ Newegg.

Noob questions:

I just wanted to ask which mobo to get,
I know Biostar is recommended, but which one?
and is ASROCK z77 extreme4 an option?


Comparison
 
Sorry for the continued gfx card questions, but any reason I wouldn't want to go with a 660ti from Gigabyte?

I'm looking at this card which is a little bit cheaper and a hair faster than many other designs, at least in the benchmarks i'm looking at.
 
Pandoracell said:
Sorry for the continued gfx card questions, but any reason I wouldn't want to go with a 660ti from Gigabyte?

I'm looking at this card which is a little bit cheaper and a hair faster than many other designs, at least in the benchmarks i'm looking at.
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I just bought the Asus OCed model for $264 with AC3 about a week ago. Point being if you can hold off for a bit then you can probably get a better sale.
 
Nekrono said:
Is there a program that allows me to check the average CPU temperature? I currently use Core Temp but it only shows the highest/lowest.
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Average is kind of useless. When the CPU switches from "idle" into "ohgodwhyareyoudoingthishumanstop", the temp will rise, that's a guarantee. What you want to look for is the temperature when the computer is idling and when it's on load. That's how you know if something is wrong.
 
So I'm starting to shop around for upgrades, getting ready for the new SimCity. Build my current rig it back in 2010 for Civ5. It still runs great (Sleeping Dogs and NFS:Most Wanted run at max well enough) but I don't know how well it will run SimCity 2013. Here's the build I have now. No overclocking what so ever

OS: Win7 64Bit
RAM: 6GB, G.SKILL Ripjaws, DDR3
CPU: Intel i7-930 2.8 GHz Bloomfield
Motherboard: EVGA E758-A1
Graphics: One EVGA GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi)
HDs: 2 Western Digital 640 GBs, one Blue series and one Black series
Power: 750W

I'm tempted to go overboard by getting (on sale) three Corsair Vengeance 8GB:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233218

or this 3 set of Corsair Dominator GT 12GB:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145329

I'm also starting to ponder about upgrading my graphics card but I it can wait until spring.

Of course, a SSD would be nice...

Any thoughts? Thanks for your time.
 
DTKT said:
Average is kind of useless. When the CPU switches from "idle" into "ohgodwhyareyoudoingthishumanstop", the temp will rise, that's a guarantee. What you want to look for is the temperature when the computer is idling and when it's on load. That's how you know if something is wrong.
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Yeah I know, I would like to see the average temperature when I'm gaming though, I always see min/max values, for example the max temp on my processor is 50c when I'm playing BF3 but I know that's not where it sits for most of the time, just the max temperature registered.

I'm just very picky about stuff like this and I'd like to see the average after a good playthrough.
 
Nekrono said:
Yeah I know, I would like to see the average temperature when I'm gaming though, I always see min/max values, for example the max temp on my processor is 50c when I'm playing BF3 but I know that's not where it sits for most of the time, just the max temperature registered.

I'm just very picky about stuff like this and I'd like to see the average after a good playthrough.
Click to expand...

Open Hardware Monitor will show you the history with a graph but not average as a number. I know I can get the average with aquasuite but that kinda needs and aquaero to use.
 
Nekrono said:
Yeah I know, I would like to see the average temperature when I'm gaming though, I always see min/max values, for example the max temp on my processor is 50c when I'm playing BF3 but I know that's not where it sits for most of the time, just the max temperature registered.

I'm just very picky about stuff like this and I'd like to see the average after a good playthrough.
Click to expand...

The log utility in CPU-temp might be useful here. It's a bit of a pain to parse, but it has all the info.
 
So I have one of the first gen Sandy Bridge boards with the defective Sata ports. In the last couple of weeks my DVD burner has started acting funny and is now completely gone. Opening up the PC and moving the SATA cable causes the drive to reappear in Windows briefly but the drive won't work and causes Explorer to crash if you try to access it. I replaced the drive tonight in the vain hope that it was just the drive. It's not, it's the mobo.

I'm still in the period for warranty replacement but it would be a huge pain in the butt to disassemble my PC to yank out the Mobo. I have a monster of a case (Silverstone Raven) and a monster of a Fan/Heatsink combo that I absolutely do not want to unmount and remount on a new Mobo anytime soon.

I'm wondering if a PCI Express Sata card wouldn't fix my problem for about $30 or less and be a heck of a lot less trouble. Anyone had this problem and gone this route?
 
Going to rephrase my question....


My brother is running an AMD processor and is getting a 7850.

I'm looking at getting him the Corsair CX600 PSU which will obviously run the system.

Question is, should he decide to get another card and crossfire, will it work? M initial research says yes because off the corsairs bronze rating and good single rail values.

Anyone want to weigh in?
 
Doing a little thinking ahead here. My system, which I plan not to touch until at least next holiday season has the following core:

Biostar TA990FXE
AMD FX8320
2x EVGA 2GB GTX 660Ti in SLI

Should my goal be to turn this into an Intel machine, or will AMD processor upgrades be sufficient over time to keep up with x60/x70 Nvidia cards?
 
Fan questions!

lWeM5l.jpg


I have the same case as shown above (picture is from mkenyon's cable management guide). There are the three fans total, two fans on each side and a fan on the top that is not shown. Motherboard has power slots for two fans and also came with something similar to this:
i72wn.jpg


Should I connect all three fans, if so, how? Which fan should be controlled by the manual controller, unless I turn it off it seems like it will always be on? Instead of using the controller kit is there any way that the third fan can also be controlled by the motherboard? If there are any places where I can learn more about fan control, please post them. Thanks again for the help.
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knitoe said:
All fans connect to the controller should run at the same speed depending how far you turn the dial. And, with that controller, they would always be spinning. If you want the MB to control the fan, connect the fan to the MB fan connector.
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But what if the motherboard only has two power connections and there are three fans? Is there an adapter where I can connect all three fans to the MB?
 
sn1pes said:
Going to rephrase my question....


My brother is running an AMD processor and is getting a 7850.

I'm looking at getting him the Corsair CX600 PSU which will obviously run the system.

Question is, should he decide to get another card and crossfire, will it work? M initial research says yes because off the corsairs bronze rating and good single rail values.

Anyone want to weigh in?
Click to expand...

Does he overclock any of his parts?

If the answer is no, then it will probably work.

If it's yes... it depends on the type of overclocker he is, but most likely it'll still work.
 
I am thinking about getting another 670 to add to my EVGA ftw card. Would I need to get the exact same card or would I be able to get the Gigabyte one? Also would I be able to go up to the 4 gig cards or would I have to stay with the 2gb?
 
Arsin said:
I am thinking about getting another 670 to add to my EVGA ftw card. Would I need to get the exact same card or would I be able to get the Gigabyte one? Also would I be able to go up to the 4 gig cards or would I have to stay with the 2gb?
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No it does not have to be the exact one. The 4GB one will not use the extra VRAM. When using SLI both cards set their clocks and RAM usage to the lowest of the two. It usually best to get the same card for aesthetics and similar overclocking characteristics.
 
Ty4on said:
Don't feel so bad about having an i3. If yours is a Sandy/Ivy Bridge then look at the 990X.
It's a 1000$ beast from Febuary 2011 and got 1.2 in a single Cinebench 11.5 thread. The i3 3220 got 1.34. In many games the i3 will do better than a stock 990X :P
Also note that Intel can be assholes with naming. Tons of i7s in laptops are actually dual cores with hyperthreading, like your i3 and all i5s are dual cores with hyperthreading. The cores themselves have identical architecture.

For those other questions I'm not a good person to ask, the computer I'm building now will replace my 08 computer. Before that I had a computer without even AGP...
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i5s below 700 were dual cores + HT back in the Nehalem days, except they had Turbo Boost, whereas the i3s never have.

Anyways, Haswell leaks came out, via vr-zone.com:

http://chinese.vr-zone.com/43824/in...luding-4770k-4670k-for-overclocking-12112012/

No spec bumps for us. :/ Guess Intel's more focused on IGP and power efficiency.
 
I figured this would be the best thread for this question. What should I look for in a surge protector? I want to replace my power strip, since it is kinda beat up. And I have never brought one before(I know, dumb move).
 
Exuro said:
I'll just say I got 1 samsung 830 128GB for $70 and 2 Kingston HyperX 128GB's for $80.
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How in the Ben Whoflack did you get SSD's for those prices?
2San said:
840 pro> 830 > 840 seems to be the general consensus in this thread.

Out of personal experience I know the 830 works fine with SATA II boards.

I recommend the 830 myself, should be cheaper as well.
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I keep searching so many sites... if I can find a inexpensive but well-regarded 64 GB SSD (i.e. Samsung SSD around $60) I might just bite. Lowest price I've seen is $70 bucks, anything cheaper and I read a bunch of complaints/issues about that brand. I'm only looking at the brands in the OP.

EDIT: Is this a good model/as cheap as I'll get for 64 GB? Crucial m4 64GB 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SATA 6Gb/s CT064M4SSD2 for $66.48 w/ Free S/H.
 
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/s7gz
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/s7gz/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/s7gz/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: CoolMax 600W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $619.93
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I'm near a microcenter so I was seeing how low I could push a 3570K build if I skimped on components but not seriously considering a build right now. The board is listed as $94 but only rings up as $54. 240ish with taxes for the combo in store.
 
Sup guys

I came around here a week or two ago to ask around about which PC parts to buy for my new rig. Everything came and I even posted pictures(not of the Rig). I sat down and put it all together a few days ago before installing the OS. I would have done it sooner, but finals are breathing down my neck and the PC can wait. I scheduled a bit of overnight time to install the OS, but the Hard drive doesn't seem to be recognized on my Z77 Extreme mobo's bios. The optical drive definitely has power, but I don't know if it is actually reading the CD. The hard drive issue comes first, though. It is definitely not detected and I'm not sure why.

I'd appreciate a bit of help so I can actually get to the desktop. I've been wanting to install the OS before finals so I can at least have a little peace of mind.

Rig:
Rosewill CHALLENGER-U3 Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Rosewill Green Series RG630-S12 630W
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
Samsung Electronics Extreme Low Voltage 30nm UDIMM 8 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM MV-3V4G3D/US
Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)
Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
 
SolarPowered said:
Sup guys

I came around here a week or two ago to ask around about which PC parts to buy for my new rig. Everything came and I even posted pictures(not of the Rig). I sat down and put it all together a few days ago before installing the OS. I would have done it sooner, but finals are breathing down my neck and the PC can wait. I scheduled a bit of overnight time to install the OS, but the Hard drive doesn't seem to be recognized on my Z77 Extreme mobo's bios. The optical drive definitely has power, but I don't know if it is actually reading the CD. The hard drive issue comes first, though. It is definitely not detected and I'm not sure why.

I'd appreciate a bit of help so I can actually get to the desktop. I've been wanting to install the OS before finals so I can at least have a little peace of mind.

Rig:
Rosewill CHALLENGER-U3 Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Rosewill Green Series RG630-S12 630W
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz
Samsung Electronics Extreme Low Voltage 30nm UDIMM 8 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM MV-3V4G3D/US
Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)
Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
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I don't know if it's the same as my Asrock Pro3 board, but try pressing F11 during POST to activate the device boot menu. You should see all your connected hard and optical drives as well as stuff like thumb drives or even SD cards, and chose to boot from one (and then boot from DVD). If your hard drive is not here... have you made sure you have it connected to the power supply as well as to the motherboard? Have you tried different SATA ports/cables just in case? All we make stupid mistakes so don't worry.

Darkone said:
How bad is it that the temperature during gaming of the GPU is around 65 C, can it make the PC shut down?
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Perfectly fine. My old GTS250 could reach 90ºC under load and still work.
 
scogoth said:
No it does not have to be the exact one. The 4GB one will not use the extra VRAM. When using SLI both cards set their clocks and RAM usage to the lowest of the two. It usually best to get the same card for aesthetics and similar overclocking characteristics.
Click to expand...

Got it, thanks for the help.
 
IceIpor said:
Does he overclock any of his parts?

If the answer is no, then it will probably work.

If it's yes... it depends on the type of overclocker he is, but most likely it'll still work.
Click to expand...

He isn't too big into OCing. Maybe a little but I think he's pretty conservative.

Thanks for the response!

I assume that a Bronze rated Corsair CX600 is better than a no rating 700 watt Rosewill (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182278), right? Even though it is more watts, the 600 should still handle Crossfire better?
 
Darkone said:
GTX670, i am having shutdowns during play, don't know what is causing it.
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Could you link us to the power supply model you're using and also confirm how did you connect the power cables to the card? (this is, all directly from PSU, using molex adaptors, etc...)
 
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