You dont need that with the wired version. It is plug and play.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
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You dont need that with the wired version. It is plug and play.
I use to use dual shock controllers but after mine got ripped off during the ps2 era and my first 360 RROD I just went to using it for sometime. The wireless really isn't necessary unless you really prefer it. The wired one has a super long cable.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Oops, I'm an idiot. I forgot that link was for the wired one when I made that edit.
I'm leaning towards the wireless controller since my couch is a bit far from my TV. And I just don't know if I can go back to wired gaming.
Edit:
Hmm... I'll see if I can find a cheap wired one then. If I don't like it I could always use it for player 2 and get a wireless one for myself.
Gaf I finally have a multi-display setups so how do I make my wallpaper appear like this?
I have two monitors wall mounted side by side with my main 40 inch monitor sitting on a table underneath them. Only my main one and the top left one is active because my current video card (gtx 480) only has supports for up to two monitors.
I have two monitors wall mounted side by side with my main 40 inch monitor sitting on a table underneath them. Only my main one and the top left one is active because my current video card (gtx 480) only has supports for up to two monitors.
I have both. I use my wireless far more often (and I can sync up to 4 controllers with it for comfy couch emulation multiplayer goodness.)
The Broken Ska Record
Member
Gaf I finally have a multi-display setups so how do I make my wallpaper appear like this?
I have two monitors wall mounted side by side with my main 40 inch monitor sitting on a table underneath them. Only my main one and the top left one is active because my current video card (gtx 480) only has supports for up to two monitors.
What OS? Windows 8 has an option to have one large wallpaper split between multiple monitors. That's what I have.
Edit: Well, just two side-by-side monitors.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Yeah, wireless does sound pretty good. I'll wait until my next paycheck and then decide how much money I want to throw at this.
I'm not sure what the TX750 is? You mean the PSU? The on I picked said it was modular, already, is that not correct? And what is the benefit to the motherboard, everything looked the same between the pro and the extreme except the gold?
Sorry for the stupid questions
Thanks for the tip on the fans. The RAM is about as good as I could find 8gb dual channel, at this shop, anyway but I'll look around. What is the benefit to the Extreme motherboard?
Thanks all for all the feedback and help.
I'm running Windows 7.
Just got a Samsung 840 PRO. Jesus that migration software was awful. The installer on the CD kept trying to update it's file but ended up corrupting them every single time. Finally I decided to just download the newest software and although it did work eventually it didn't delete the cloned drive or reassigned the priority like the GUI led me to believe.
Oh well, a fresh install is never really a bad thing I guess.
Oh well, a fresh install is never really a bad thing I guess.
Double the SATA3 connectors.
(2) PCIE3.0 connectors instead of one, in case you ever decide to SLI/Crossfire
More on-board fan connectors
More USB3.0 connections in the back
Better capacitors
Not that you'd have any problems with the Pro3 overclocking, but the the Extreme4 has better power channeling and should help reduce heat to the chip and the motherboard itself.
ALL that said, it's not like the Pro3 is a bad board, but you get a lot of added bang for your buck on the Extreme4.
Okay, cool, thanks. It's not a great price difference, so if it will be better then it makes sense. I didn't even notice the extra USB 3 connections. I need to take a break from looking at this stuff for a few days I think, everything is starting to blur
Hawk269
Member
I am a big advocate of building your own rigs as it is fun and you learn a lot from it. I have built many rigs over the last year, but just wanted to share the nightmare I had today building a rig for a co-worker. ***Just don't take this as a sign that you should not build, you definitely should build your own, just read this and use it as a thing to learn from and/or check***
So everything started pretty good. CPU installed, cooler installed, Ram Installed, Mobo installed into the case, attached the DVD Drive, Hard Dirve, added in the PSU and started to run cables. Did a quick check on the fan controller and the fans and those spun up and worked fine. So after a while and double checking everything, I hit the power button and nothing. No power. Now, I know the PSU works cause I tested the fan controller and the fans and I am getting a power light on the motherboard.
I decided to trace all cables and ensure they are secure, I unplug and re-plug almost everything into the motherboard and the PSU. Still nothing. I decide to disconnect a few things and I unplug them from the PSU and I try to power it up and it powers up.
The culprit: Some of the power cables that came with the PSU (XFX Pro 750w) were a bit short and I had a bunch of extra ones from my Corsair 1200. Well, I guess the XFX does not like those power cables because once I switched them out to the ones that came with the PSU it all worked fine...for now. Lesson 1!
So, I get power and I am greeted with the "insert a media/boot device or select a boot drive". So I go to BIOS to ensure it is on the ASUS DVD drive and I notice that there is no HDD, even though it is installed and connected. I ensure it is all good and try to reboot and the same thing. So I insert the Windows 8 disk and after a few seconds it still asks for a boot media or select a boot drive. This goes on for a while as I try to figure it out.
So I keep messing with things and notice that the HDD is not humming or making any noise so I touch it and it not even making a vibration. I check the BIOS again and everything is fine with the exception of it not showing the HDD. So I decide to break out one of my new HDD's I was also going to install into my own rig to test and sure enough, the first Western Digital HDD was DOA. I also bought the same HDD for myself which is the WD 1TB Blue HDD and mine worked. Lesson 2!
So here we go again thinking that the issue was the fact that the mobo was not seeing the HDD. Well, that was not the case, I was still getting the "insert boot media" message. So I check the Bios again and both the DVD drive and the HDD are detected and in the right ports, so I decide to try my Windows 7 disk thinking that maybe he got a bad disk with Win8 on it, but nope that did not earthier. So at this point I am not sure what to do..but wait...
I also ordered myself a new Asus Blu Ray drive for my rig, so I decide to try that, so I leave the Asus DVD in the case, but just disconnect power and the sata cable. I hook up the Blu Ray drive and bingo it works. Lesson 3.
So, basically it all came down to receiving not one, but two defective drives. 1 Asus DVD drive and 1 WD BLUE 1 TB drive. Also, don't mix power cables from different PSU manufactures. I mean, what are the odds of receiving 2 defective drives in the same shipment/order???
This build which should of only took a few hours became a 8 hour ordeal. Right now, I am finally installing the last of the Win8 updates. I just need to remove the Asus DVD drive and the guy decided to buy the Blu Ray drive and I will just order another one for myself.
But as I stated at the beginning, I still encourage anyone to still build their own. Things do go bad at times and even to the point where 2 parts are DOA...but shit happens! lol
So everything started pretty good. CPU installed, cooler installed, Ram Installed, Mobo installed into the case, attached the DVD Drive, Hard Dirve, added in the PSU and started to run cables. Did a quick check on the fan controller and the fans and those spun up and worked fine. So after a while and double checking everything, I hit the power button and nothing. No power. Now, I know the PSU works cause I tested the fan controller and the fans and I am getting a power light on the motherboard.
I decided to trace all cables and ensure they are secure, I unplug and re-plug almost everything into the motherboard and the PSU. Still nothing. I decide to disconnect a few things and I unplug them from the PSU and I try to power it up and it powers up.
The culprit: Some of the power cables that came with the PSU (XFX Pro 750w) were a bit short and I had a bunch of extra ones from my Corsair 1200. Well, I guess the XFX does not like those power cables because once I switched them out to the ones that came with the PSU it all worked fine...for now. Lesson 1!
So, I get power and I am greeted with the "insert a media/boot device or select a boot drive". So I go to BIOS to ensure it is on the ASUS DVD drive and I notice that there is no HDD, even though it is installed and connected. I ensure it is all good and try to reboot and the same thing. So I insert the Windows 8 disk and after a few seconds it still asks for a boot media or select a boot drive. This goes on for a while as I try to figure it out.
So I keep messing with things and notice that the HDD is not humming or making any noise so I touch it and it not even making a vibration. I check the BIOS again and everything is fine with the exception of it not showing the HDD. So I decide to break out one of my new HDD's I was also going to install into my own rig to test and sure enough, the first Western Digital HDD was DOA. I also bought the same HDD for myself which is the WD 1TB Blue HDD and mine worked. Lesson 2!
So here we go again thinking that the issue was the fact that the mobo was not seeing the HDD. Well, that was not the case, I was still getting the "insert boot media" message. So I check the Bios again and both the DVD drive and the HDD are detected and in the right ports, so I decide to try my Windows 7 disk thinking that maybe he got a bad disk with Win8 on it, but nope that did not earthier. So at this point I am not sure what to do..but wait...
I also ordered myself a new Asus Blu Ray drive for my rig, so I decide to try that, so I leave the Asus DVD in the case, but just disconnect power and the sata cable. I hook up the Blu Ray drive and bingo it works. Lesson 3.
So, basically it all came down to receiving not one, but two defective drives. 1 Asus DVD drive and 1 WD BLUE 1 TB drive. Also, don't mix power cables from different PSU manufactures. I mean, what are the odds of receiving 2 defective drives in the same shipment/order???
This build which should of only took a few hours became a 8 hour ordeal. Right now, I am finally installing the last of the Win8 updates. I just need to remove the Asus DVD drive and the guy decided to buy the Blu Ray drive and I will just order another one for myself.
But as I stated at the beginning, I still encourage anyone to still build their own. Things do go bad at times and even to the point where 2 parts are DOA...but shit happens! lol
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Wow, that's a rough build! I've had little trouble building my first and only homemade PC. The only thing is my HDD was DOD as well! Still, I got it exchanged easily enough and haven't had any problems since.
MisterNoisy
Member
Assuming your image is exactly the res of your two monitors (ex: 3840x1080 if you're using 2 1080p panels) set the Picture position to 'Tile' after selecting the image.
Looking at your post made me feel even more glad that I spent the extra money to OC and didn't just get an H77/3470.
Finally got around to putting in the replacement motherboard. Went a loooot better than my first round and the whole thing is running great right now. Inside the case is a bit on the tight side, but can easily replace it later as I'm not in a rush for that.
Thank you kharma45, brentech, mkenyon, Hazaro, and the others for helping out with my first build! As sloppy as it may look. D:
About prime95: How long do you guys normally let it stress test the CPU/RAM for? I left it on for like 10mins earlier and the temp. averaged around 55c across the four cores without overclocking at full load.
The guide in the OP also mentions to not use the auto-OC'er in the bios, so basically do everything manually ya? Sounds like it rules out the ASRock eXtrem Tuner as well.
Yeah, it looks like it was good that I completely skipped on trying the auto-OC'ers.
I will try for about 10ish hours first time around, but I think I will do what you are doing with 24 hours if I am close to maximizing my OC. Doesn't that run things down a bit if the temp. gets high though? Thanks for the reply btw.
Not just that. From talking with kharma45 I was putting my build together, the pro3 line may have issues overclocking past 4.2ghz and may start throttling the CPU past that point.
At least, that's what I found from googling it around and there were three threads about it in a different forum. So I decided to just make the jump to an Extreme 4.
I read that linked guide to overclocking in the OP and it just made me wish I had avoided telling my buddy to get the cooler. What did I get myself into. This stuff used to be a lot simpler. There must be 20 options they lay out and discuss changing, four programs you have to download (prime 95, HW monitor, real temp, amd CPU A), amd that is BEFORE you start the overclocking and testing. Ugh.
I'm really depressed now. More and more articles are pointing at no GTX 700 this year. I was planning on 4770k + GTX 770 combo. Now with that not out. I guess I'll delay the build another year.
When I build, I make sure it will last me a while, with maybe 1 GPU upgrade in between. No way I'm upgrading when the lifecycle of the 600 series is so close to the end and the new AMD GPUs coming out Q3/Q4 2013.
What a shame. More waiting for me. Hope my Q6600 and GTX 470 don't fail me now. 5 years and going on strong.
When I build, I make sure it will last me a while, with maybe 1 GPU upgrade in between. No way I'm upgrading when the lifecycle of the 600 series is so close to the end and the new AMD GPUs coming out Q3/Q4 2013.
What a shame. More waiting for me. Hope my Q6600 and GTX 470 don't fail me now. 5 years and going on strong.
ss_lemonade
Member
Do you also check for WHEA errors? I only found out about those recently
To be fair though, I thought it would be a lot worse than this. I would think if you want to do everything in the guide, you are probably aiming for 4.5ghz and higher when it starts to actually really matter.
I'm probably just going to overclock to a stable 4.3~4.4ghz and call it a day for a long time. Just need to do it safely without messing with my set.
I think I'll remove the wireless 450Mbps wireless adaptor from my build, since I was able to move the router into the PC room, so it'll just be hooked up via ethernet. Guess I'll save my $50, or can I put it towards a better part,
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
Wireless: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 450Mbps Wireless N PCIe Adaptor
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W
Any suggestions? Or maybe I should put it towards a new monitor..
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 680 OC 4GB
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W
Any suggestions? Or maybe I should put it towards a new monitor..
I guess. I am mainly just worried because I planned on helping my buddy put it together during an afternoon while I was visiting in town. He bought all the parts over the last two weeks and is waiting until I come to visit next month to put it together. But that OC guide makes it look like it could easily take an entire afternoon/evening by itself.
Maybe I'll try to skip some stuff and just go for a modest 4.0GHZ on his 3570k. That shouldnt be too hard to get stable since the normal boost on it is 3.8GHZ.
Anton668
Member
if its the guide im thinking it is, its designed to get the highest stable overclock at the lowest voltage possible depending on the cooler you have. And unfortunately that takes time as you have to find that fine line for the perfect balance.
I am looking into simpler stuff on youtube instead of that guide. What Anton668 said about it made the guide make more sense.
I don't know if your friend got an ASRock Extreme 4 which is what I got, so something like this as a fast guide for it
That same guy got a super beginners guide going over basically everything. It made a lot more sense to watch it for me.
Hope that helps. Which MB you got anyway?
Every single article I've seen is based on pure speculation. As history has shown, the accurate info only appears when Nvidia brief their partners and preferred retailers about their upcoming products.
I personally would be very surprised if a 700-something for desktops doesn't launch this year.
I hope you are right friend. I thought it was pure speculation at first. Now big name websites are jumping on the rumors. I can only hope, I'm fed up with waiting.
I said 'nice' and modular. I don't see any good reviews on the TX750M and would much rather have an HX650 in my rig. More than enough power.
ASUS 144Hz!
4.2Ghz minimum
If you mean MCV... :lol That site is terribad.
Edit: MCV doesn't credit any kind of source, and Tom's Hardware links to WCCF, which links to http://www.game-debate.com/news/?news=4555&graphics, which is nothing more than baseless speculation.
Deciding on a graphics card is a colossal pain in the ass.
Trying to decide between a 670 and a 7970, then trying to choose between brands, ensure they have a good fan/cooler set-up, then sorting out those that are factory overclocked, trying to figure out if they're voltage locked, then trying to find one at a reasonable price within my budget, then trying to find somewhere that isn't a scam website to buy from...
God damn son. This shouldn't be so complicated.
Trying to decide between a 670 and a 7970, then trying to choose between brands, ensure they have a good fan/cooler set-up, then sorting out those that are factory overclocked, trying to figure out if they're voltage locked, then trying to find one at a reasonable price within my budget, then trying to find somewhere that isn't a scam website to buy from...
God damn son. This shouldn't be so complicated.
No probs, mate.
What country/region are you in?
Northern Ireland. Technically in the UK except I get hit with £20 extra shipping charges from pretty much everywhere.
Man ,I like multi screen gaming as much as the the next guy but that's just overkill.
Northern Ireland. Technically in the UK except I get hit with £20 extra shipping charges from pretty much everywhere.
If memory serves me right, www.overclockers.co.uk does reasonably priced shipping to your neck of the woods.
Ordered one of these for myself. Should be arriving today actually.
Although, I have to wonder if all I did was set into motion a domino effect of further upgrades, like new video card(s). Not sure if I'm going to be getting the Nvidia 3D kit -- I had the ELSA kit from way back in the day, and the drivers for it were pretty atrocious (constant blue screens), and the experience itself wasn't all that great either (the much lower framerates obviously didn't help), so it sort of soured me on the whole concept of stereo 3D.
hey, DOA always sucks but it happens unfortunately
but be really careful with swapping out power cables between modular PSUs ... often different (Watt) PSUs models from the same brand/series aren't even compatible !
all the power plugs themselves are standardized of course, but the way modular cables are connected to the PSU itself is totally up to the discretion of the manufacturer
I guess that XFX unit had a good protection mechanism in place, else you might've seen some flashes and smoke
Thanks. Asrock Extreme 4 is the exact board he has. Got it due to the Toms Hardware recommendation. This does make it look easier. I wouldnt mind the 30 steps of tinkering if I was at my leisure at my own place, but this is a different scenario.
Yeah, the video in the OP you watched is also only using fixed voltage overclock. I watched that same video and took a bunch of notes, then found out it was basically useless with the Extreme4 board.
Offset overclocking goes really fast with the board. Maybe 10+ changes in the BIOS, then decide what you want the max speed to be, if you did like 4.2 or 4.3 it will be really simple. Unless the cooler is on wrong, I would highly doubt you'll run into any problems. Just let him run one of the tests over night or something.
Have a look at this guide: http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/...-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition
While it's long winded, a lot of it is simply information on what each setting actually does. There's more things that stay the same than that need changed.
Being that I wasn't trying to go past 4.5, I didn't need to do all that min/maxing at the end (maybe I'll be willing to do that when I switch to liquid cooling), I immediately set the multiplier to 45 instead of working on +1 increments from 33. It booted right up and I ran my test for 12 hours after basic software installed and windows setup to my liking. (And have run longer tests since then)
So. With offset overclock the CPU will run at 1600Mhz when idle or surfing the web and such. As soon the system asks it to do anything, even loading a webpage for a fraction of a second, it jumps to 4500Mhz and does it's job and clocks back down. So, like right now as I type my system temps are only 24C-28C, then while under a bit of load when it goes to 4.5Ghz it goes up by at least 10C. Usually in the 50s when playing a game.
Micro Center having their motherboard deal with the 3570k again.
Confusatron
Member
The SFF parts have been ordered, with a few minor variations from my previous post. The main difference is I went with the Fractal Design Node 304 case. The more I read up on the CM 120, the less pleased I was with the layout of the case. The power supply sits right above the CPU, which limits the coolers you can install. The Node puts the PSU at the front of the case, leaving plenty of room for the MB in the back.
I should get the parts around the middle of next week. I'll post some pics of the finished build.
Ugh...I had to flip my Coolermaster case onto its side to be able to get it under my desk and close enough to use a DVI cable for the new ASUS. This is less than ideal, but we'll see how much impact it has on temps.
I'm trying out Ridge Racer, and it's capping at exactly 72fps the entire time for some reason. Lowering AA has no effect, so it seems like there's some setting or game limitation causing it.
I'm trying out Ridge Racer, and it's capping at exactly 72fps the entire time for some reason. Lowering AA has no effect, so it seems like there's some setting or game limitation causing it.
I'm really tempted to build a mid-range PC, I've been away for way too long now. I'm just pissed that I got this fucking infernal craving now, when the smart thing to do would be to wait for the new consoles or at least Battlefield 4 (well Frostbite 3 really) and make CPU/GPU decisions then. Goddammit. I know I'll be sorry if I'll get something like FX-6300 and equal GPU now.
Yep.
If you're really itching to upgrade - get a used 2500K or 2600K and a Z68 motherboard. Still a very competitive CPU that overclocks like a beast. Grab a 7850 for a video card and you'll be good to go for a little while. If you aren't in a rush you can find 2500ks for $150 or less.
I need some help regarding overclocking. I have a Q6600 and a P5Q Pro.
I used to be able to go with 355 FSB and without adjusting anything else it would work fine and I've never had any problems. But ever since installing 64-bit, 355 would make it crash at the windows screen. I lowered it to 340 which allowed it to work but I'm now reading up on some overclocking info and I checked my core temps and they were at ~98 when I finished booting up. I went down to 333 now and it's still in the 90's. What's happening?
I used to be able to go with 355 FSB and without adjusting anything else it would work fine and I've never had any problems. But ever since installing 64-bit, 355 would make it crash at the windows screen. I lowered it to 340 which allowed it to work but I'm now reading up on some overclocking info and I checked my core temps and they were at ~98 when I finished booting up. I went down to 333 now and it's still in the 90's. What's happening?
The cpu cooler probably came off (to some degree) if temps are that high when idle. So I'd advise you to remove it, apply new thermal paste (this is definitely needed if it came loose) and put it back properly.
Yes, but depending on your monitor it might look like shit if the scaling is shitty on it.
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