MisterNoisy
Member
No need for AS5 - the Hyper 212 comes with a tube of perfectly good thermal compound.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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No need for AS5 - the Hyper 212 comes with a tube of perfectly good thermal compound.
Really, I think 4GB is where it's at for a card right now. I'd almost suggest going down to something like a 760 if going up to a 4GB card is a bit too much. It's totally your call though, as the 770 will no doubt perform better always.
That spot is really owned by the 280x, but the prices are still too damned high from the bitcoin craze.
I'd also take a gander at the Coolermaster N400 for a case. Great great product for the price.
Oh, and swap out the PSU for an EVGA 500B or Antec BP-550.
That spot is really owned by the 280x, but the prices are still too damned high from the bitcoin craze.
I'd also take a gander at the Coolermaster N400 for a case. Great great product for the price.
Oh, and swap out the PSU for an EVGA 500B or Antec BP-550.
*Litecoin
Those PSUs are difficult to find in Canada and the BP550 costs about $30 more than it does in the states. Not a good choice in this country unfortunately
MisterNoisy
Member
Those PSUs are difficult to find in Canada and the BP550 costs about $30 more than it does in the states. Not a good choice in this country unfortunately
Antec Neo ECO PSUs, perhaps? Those are my go-to 'cheap' PSUs in most cases.
ss_lemonade
Member
Now is the time I wish I was still back in the Philippines. A friend told me that the prices there haven't skyrocketed yet
I can't figure out the cause of my current build problems. It starts up fine for the first time and I could do everything including game for hours without any issues. But when I shut it down, it doesn't start up as per normal but instead does the turns on 1 sec then turn off again cycle with the fans spinning. So when I reseat my graphics card, I can turn it on again and it asks me to reset bios settings. Then the whole thing happens all over again, it works perfectly fine until it goes to sleep/shut down then I have to reseat the graphics card again.
I've pulled every component out of the casing except the motherboard and it's still the same thing happening. I've fixed the position of my graphics card so it hardly budges at all so I don't think it's even a graphics card seating issue. Maybe it has something to do with the bios but I have no clue what else I can do.
Help?
I've pulled every component out of the casing except the motherboard and it's still the same thing happening. I've fixed the position of my graphics card so it hardly budges at all so I don't think it's even a graphics card seating issue. Maybe it has something to do with the bios but I have no clue what else I can do.
Help?
*dogecoin
Thanks much for the help - is the Corsair Air big enough? One of the things I always struggle with when building a new PC is there's not enough room for my hands to work with, so I end up cutting corners and wiring becomes a huge mess.
I'd like something with a lot of room + ability to SLI in the future, that's why I went with the HAF
soulassssns
Banned
Some? Far as I can tell it is ALL but then again I'm assuming you are not dusting off some of the old classics.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Keeping it all in mind, thanks.
sorry for my many posts about Windows 8 and stuff
I just reinstalled Windows 8.1 with UEFI
strange thing is alot of my drivers were also installed :/
- Catalyst, some Intel drivers etc
I just installed the latest drivers over them, is it better to have uninstalled all of them?
additionally, any other Windows 8.1 tips or tricks that I should know to optimize my experience?
I just reinstalled Windows 8.1 with UEFI
strange thing is alot of my drivers were also installed :/
- Catalyst, some Intel drivers etc
I just installed the latest drivers over them, is it better to have uninstalled all of them?
additionally, any other Windows 8.1 tips or tricks that I should know to optimize my experience?
Case design has come a long long way. Just about anything in that post I linked you sans the budget options would be fine.
- What the hell does TN, VA, e-IPS, IPS, and PVA mean?
- Scogoth lays out different display connectors. DVI, Dual Link DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort (DP), VGA
- NeoGAF Cheap/Korean 1440p monitor thread
- NeoGAF 120Hz/144Hz monitor thread
[BUDGET]
And any $100-$120 monitor that has decent reviews and is not an lesser brand. Many of the higher monitors also go on steep discounts.
[STANDARD]
[ENHANCED]
ASUS VG23AH if you don't wear glasses or glasses with any sort of filters/polarizers. It might be IPS/PLS but it has the best 60hz performance of ANY monitor on the market and can be driven to run at 72hz or 75hz with this program and these settings. Go for the Dell if you want 16:10 and super crisp colors.
[120Hz @ 1080p]
Get the ASUS VG248QE for G-Sync Module compatibility, but it still works great with AMD cards and ToastyX's Lightboost hack. The Eizo is a VA panel with native strobing which allows for very impressive colors with near zero blur.
[2560x1440 IPS]
The QNIX can be easily overclocked to 120Hz, though not guaranteed. Motion blur is significantly reduced compared to any 1440p 60Hz panel because of this. The Viewsonic is a near-professional grade IPS screen with amazing colors, though not as good of a gaming monitor.
Sent in a support ticket with Fractal and they havent answered in 3 days. Hopefully its because of the holidays.
Just in case, does anyone know of a site where I can buy spare parts for a Fractal R4? They have a European site but nothing for NA. I need a replacement fan controller since I kinda fried mine while trying to fix it. Im an idiot.
Just in case, does anyone know of a site where I can buy spare parts for a Fractal R4? They have a European site but nothing for NA. I need a replacement fan controller since I kinda fried mine while trying to fix it. Im an idiot.
theSlacker
Member
Yeah, but it depends on the model in specific. All brands have gems and turds.
Fixt. Thanks.
thanks GAF for the advice! upgraded my motherboard, CPU, GFX, PSU and Monitor!
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock B85 Pro4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage: Plextor M5P Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (OS)
Storage: Western Digital 640GB Black HDD (Data/Games/App)
Storage: Western Digital 1TB Green HDD (Storage)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCUII TOP 3GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone FT01-BW ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II-750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-217BK DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor: Dell U2412M
Sound: Audinst HUD-MX1 @ AE Aego M
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btw, I still have my Windows Media Center key from the last upgrade offer, can I apply it to my Dreamspark Windows 8.1 Pro still?
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock B85 Pro4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage: Plextor M5P Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (OS)
Storage: Western Digital 640GB Black HDD (Data/Games/App)
Storage: Western Digital 1TB Green HDD (Storage)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 280X DirectCUII TOP 3GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone FT01-BW ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II-750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-217BK DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor: Dell U2412M
Sound: Audinst HUD-MX1 @ AE Aego M
----
btw, I still have my Windows Media Center key from the last upgrade offer, can I apply it to my Dreamspark Windows 8.1 Pro still?
[HEADSETS]
[HEADPHONES]
[MICS]
VisceralBowl
Member
I can never find that $15 Logitech USB mic. On amazon it was like $50 or something and Newegg has said it is out of stock for like 6 months now.....Anybody know where I can find that mic for that price?
New Lian Li Desk Chassis
Seems like the 860 unit has a much higher reporting of it. I'd feel pretty safe about it.
OMG
[KEYBOARDS]
Mechanical switches are referred to Cherry MX switches. MX Brown = Quiet tactile, MX Blue = loud tactile, MX Black = stiff linear, MX Red = soft linear. Cooler Master University.
Ebay. Otherwise get that cheap DX clip on if you need to save money.
ModMic is the one to get though.
Guys I built my first pc a week ago and I'm kind of a newbie to this kind of stuff so I have a question, should I set my case fans (corsair 200r) and cpu cooler (cooler master hyper 212+) in the Bios to a 100% or Auto? it's currently running at Auto and 50% default. Thanks GAF!
Thanks!
Well shit, used to be a ton on eBay, but now there's like 4 and it's nowhere.
A quick browse suggests everything else on the market sucks under $30 or 50 for USB.
Might as well get a 3.5mm mic and a Xonar DGX at that price then...
Small Form Factor Build Guide
Or, how to build the GAF Box One
Quick note, these builds will be updated in a few weeks with AMD's Kaveri APUs releasing soon. They might shake up a bit more than budget HTPCs.
Or, how to build the GAF Box One
Quick note, these builds will be updated in a few weeks with AMD's Kaveri APUs releasing soon. They might shake up a bit more than budget HTPCs.
One of the main factors that one faces when dealing with SFF builds is ensuring that heatsinks and parts fit in the tiny spaces provided. The parts in these build sheets are far less loose in terms of picking out something slightly different. I can only ensure proper clearances on the items that are in the build sheet.
In terms of being able to hold the most powerful hardware, only the CM 120 Elite is limited. So if you want to pack a 280x, 780, or Titan in an ITX enclosure, then you'll want to skip that. From there it's mostly a choice of aesthetics, though the Prodigy/Phenom is the most capable in terms of moving heat.
The AMD APU builds are perfectly good gaming machines if you aren't planning on running anything graphically intensive. Indie games, Source, older titles, and even some newer ones like Dirt will run wonderfully on these systems. You do get what you pay for in terms of performance when you upgrade to the A8 or A10, though the A6 will certainly be able to handle HTPC tasks and light gaming. If you are just looking for an inexpensive computer that will handle browsing, 1080p video, and light gaming, then it's definitely the way to go. The HTPC builds will fit in all of the cases, but I only included them in the two cases that would look acceptable in a media center. That's a subjective call on my part, so if you are smitten with another case design, feel free to apply the HTPC column to any of the other cases.
In terms of being able to hold the most powerful hardware, only the CM 120 Elite is limited. So if you want to pack a 280x, 780, or Titan in an ITX enclosure, then you'll want to skip that. From there it's mostly a choice of aesthetics, though the Prodigy/Phenom is the most capable in terms of moving heat.
The AMD APU builds are perfectly good gaming machines if you aren't planning on running anything graphically intensive. Indie games, Source, older titles, and even some newer ones like Dirt will run wonderfully on these systems. You do get what you pay for in terms of performance when you upgrade to the A8 or A10, though the A6 will certainly be able to handle HTPC tasks and light gaming. If you are just looking for an inexpensive computer that will handle browsing, 1080p video, and light gaming, then it's definitely the way to go. The HTPC builds will fit in all of the cases, but I only included them in the two cases that would look acceptable in a media center. That's a subjective call on my part, so if you are smitten with another case design, feel free to apply the HTPC column to any of the other cases.
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