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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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aaronbst

Banned
Well I am not the expert, but you may wait for the AMD announcement or wait for the rumored 960ti. I think going forward with 2gb is not a ideal idea, but as I said I am not an expert. I just saw nobody replied to your post ;)

It would still be a major Upgrade though


thank you sir
 
So my new build is on the way, and I kind of went all out:

Intel i7 4790K CPU
GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-SLI Motherboard
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
EVGA GTX 980 FTW Graphics Card (Factory OC'ed by about 150mhz)
Samsung 840 EVO 1TB SSD
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 80 PLUS GOLD 1300W Modular PSU (overkill I'm sure but I got a great deal on it @ $139 and it leaves me room for SLI)


So what kind of performance can I expect out of this rig? Can I expect Ryse, Crysis 3, Far Cry 4, Witcher 3, etc... to run @ a locked 60FPS/1080P w/ a decent amount of AA? Or is that still not quite within reach?

I also understand that some of my parts probably are overkill for the time being. The i7 and the 980 in particular, I've read people stating that if you're running @1080P, they're unnecessary. But frankly I'm not all that concerned about running games in 1080P NOW so much as running games two years from now @60FPS/1080P. I built this rig to be relatively future-proofed.


TL;DR: Thoughts? :).
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
I'm planning upgrading for Windows 10, but I'm not really sure how far I'll go yet.

Almost certainly planning on getting a bigger SSD. 512/480GB would be nice and it looks like prices are falling enough that might be realistic for me. Nothing changed in terms of selection? Go for Intel/Samsung/Crucial?

Not really any questions other than that, just thoughts.

Considering finally upgrading from my 2500K to whatever the equivalent Skylake-S processor would be (or AMD Zen, but in all likelihood that will disappoint). Still not sure though, have to see what performance is like.

Also considering going with an AIO liquid cooler again. My H50 served me well back in the day (and serves my brother well now). I'm tired of the monstrous chunk of metal that is my NH-D14, I don't care about better performance, I just want something that isn't going to take up entire case. I know there is the "get real liquid" crowd but I'm not going to spend that much and don't want to have to manage it.

Thinking about a SFF case too, but that seems unnecessary. My current case is fine other than the borked USB port on the front (and that might be a motherboard problem, but I don't know).
 

Diablos

Member
It's pretty middle of the road. Should last a couple of years at a blend of medium/high. Don't expect 1080p/60 with all the settings cranked up.
Hmm. I guess it's the new GTX 660/670? Quite a jump in price between the 960 an 970... I really want a 970.

^^

And, with only 2GB VRAM, I would say nope.
Will they ever come out with a 4GB model? Also I see that it only has 128-bit memory. Interesting.

But this looks like such a nice little card.
 

Easy_D

never left the stone age
Been messing around with the original F.E.A.R.. Going by Steam's FPS counter I'm not getting the perfect 60 FPS I expected with the game completely maxed out. Maybe my expectations were too high. Though it does say that the game isn't optimized for higher resolutions. (My monitor is 1360 x 768.)

Are you using a Logitech mouse by any chance? Because I ran it at 1080p just fine.

Edit: forgot to add the fact that the game has some issues with Logitech mice. Could be the case with other brands too. It causes the game to run like butt
 

kikonawa

Member
HELP!

My PC is being very weird lately. 9/10 times I try to start it up, I get no signal on either of my two monitors when plugged into the GPU (Gigabyte GTX 770), but I get signal just fine from the motherboard DVI and VGA ports. The GPU is definitely connected properly and has been fine for about 18 months now.. not sure what's going on. When I can get it working, it seems OK.

It randomly works every now and again if I just fuck around unplugging, restarting, and plugging back in cables etc. What gives?

Edit, specs:

Windows 8.1
i7 2600K (stock clocks)
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO Motherboard
GTX 770 2GB (stock clocks, latest Beta drivers)
16GB Corsair Vengeance RAM
CoolerMaster 850W Modular PSU
Corsair H50 cooler
Had a similar problem.my motherboard crapped out on me. (pcie port)
 
Installed the GTX 970 and redid the cooler. Ran Prime95 for roughly 20 minutes.

Tyi073j.png


:|

Thermal paste is wrong (probably) or vcore ain't right (reset to optimized defaults in bios and check).
 

mkenyon

Banned
HELP!

My PC is being very weird lately. 9/10 times I try to start it up, I get no signal on either of my two monitors when plugged into the GPU (Gigabyte GTX 770), but I get signal just fine from the motherboard DVI and VGA ports. The GPU is definitely connected properly and has been fine for about 18 months now.. not sure what's going on. When I can get it working, it seems OK.

It randomly works every now and again if I just fuck around unplugging, restarting, and plugging back in cables etc. What gives?

Edit, specs:

Windows 8.1
i7 2600K (stock clocks)
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO Motherboard
GTX 770 2GB (stock clocks, latest Beta drivers)
16GB Corsair Vengeance RAM
CoolerMaster 850W Modular PSU
Corsair H50 cooler
That's your PC being upset that it isn't overclocked.

I kid.

I had an identical problem to this on my old Sabertooth P67 board. No joke, the solution was unplugging the USB 3.0 front panel connector.

I'd definitely suggest looking at any BIOS/UEFI updates that are available first, and then even try putting the video card in a different slot. Then start unplugging random bits to see where the holdup is.
 

RGM79

Member
HELP!

My PC is being very weird lately. 9/10 times I try to start it up, I get no signal on either of my two monitors when plugged into the GPU (Gigabyte GTX 770), but I get signal just fine from the motherboard DVI and VGA ports. The GPU is definitely connected properly and has been fine for about 18 months now.. not sure what's going on. When I can get it working, it seems OK.

It randomly works every now and again if I just fuck around unplugging, restarting, and plugging back in cables etc. What gives?

Edit, specs:

Windows 8.1
i7 2600K (stock clocks)
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO Motherboard
GTX 770 2GB (stock clocks, latest Beta drivers)
16GB Corsair Vengeance RAM
CoolerMaster 850W Modular PSU
Corsair H50 cooler

Try a different PCI-E slot? Any chance you could move the graphics card to another PC to test it there?
 
Decided to finally build my first PC, preferably for under 800€ and this is what I am looking at right now.

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/Chri_stoph/saved/htsPxr

Gaming wise it is mainly going to be used for older games and PC exclusives at 1080p.
Other than that I am going to some Office stuff for university with it.

I would really appreciate some input if there is somewhere I should choose a different part or where I should spend more or less.
 
So my new build is on the way, and I kind of went all out:

Intel i7 4790K CPU
GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-SLI Motherboard
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
EVGA GTX 980 FTW Graphics Card (Factory OC'ed by about 150mhz)
Samsung 840 EVO 1TB SSD
EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 80 PLUS GOLD 1300W Modular PSU (overkill I'm sure but I got a great deal on it @ $139 and it leaves me room for SLI)


So what kind of performance can I expect out of this rig? Can I expect Ryse, Crysis 3, Far Cry 4, Witcher 3, etc... to run @ a locked 60FPS/1080P w/ a decent amount of AA? Or is that still not quite within reach?

I also understand that some of my parts probably are overkill for the time being. The i7 and the 980 in particular, I've read people stating that if you're running @1080P, they're unnecessary. But frankly I'm not all that concerned about running games in 1080P NOW so much as running games two years from now @60FPS/1080P. I built this rig to be relatively future-proofed.


TL;DR: Thoughts? :).

jealous of that SSD - tempted to replace mine now... ;p

if you're gaming @ 1080p you can expect to demolish everything with that setup.

it's moving to 1440p that makes things, well, frustrating.
 

SkyTurkey

Neo Member
I was just curious what everyone's thoughts are on monitors. If I'm mainly playing MMOs, action RPGs, and Hack n' slash games would 3 monitors be better than say one large 1440p or 4k monitor.

The three monitors would be 23' or 24'. The large monitor would be 27'+. I'm also fascinated by gsync.
 

RGM79

Member
Decided to finally build my first PC, preferably for under 800€ and this is what I am looking at right now.

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/Chri_stoph/saved/htsPxr

Gaming wise it is mainly going to be used for older games and PC exclusives at 1080p.
Other than that I am going to some Office stuff for university with it.

I would really appreciate some input if there is somewhere I should choose a different part or where I should spend more or less.

Yeah, there are some things to change.

If you will not be overclocking then the processor is fine. However, the 4690K is recommended if you are willing to overclock as it will have a longer useful life than the non-overclocking 4590 processor, although it will cost more. I will assume you do not want to overclock.

You chose a small compact motherboard (mATX size) and a normal mid size case. Although the smaller motherboard will fit in the larger case, I think it's best to match up the size, no reason to go with a smaller motherboard unless you absolutely needed to save money because it was cheaper or something. If you prefer a more compact computer, it would be possible to choose a smaller case and motherboard. I will choose a smaller case.

I wouldn't recommend WD Green to store the OS. It's best used as a secondary drive for storage, not for the OS. Even then, there are apparently issues with head parking (power saving feature that apparently causes a lot of issues because of how short a time and aggressive Western Digital has set it to work for). I found a cheaper faster 7200RPM Toshiba hard drive instead.

Optical drives are generally no longer needed unless you have a specific need for them.

From what I can find, Fractal power supplies are fine, but 500 watts is a little on the low side for an R9 280. I chose a decent EVGA 600B power supply instead for just 1 Euro more, 600 watts is a little more comfortable to have.

With the money saved, I was able to pick a R9 280X which will offer improved performance.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (€184.90 @ Caseking)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€32.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€75.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (€69.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€74.90 @ Caseking)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Black Edition Double Dissipation Video Card (€229.90 @ Caseking)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (€37.50 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€62.12 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €767.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-10 19:16 CET+0100

The cost comes in at just under 770 Euros.
 
jealous of that SSD - tempted to replace mine now... ;p

if you're gaming @ 1080p you can expect to demolish everything with that setup.

it's moving to 1440p that makes things, well, frustrating.

Thanks for the input! I'm really excited for my 1TB SSD. I've been using a 120GB SSD on my laptop for my OS for years now and I could never go back. It's going to be great to be able to store all of my games on an SSD.

This rig is going to be hooked up to a 70" 1080P HDTV, so 1080P will be the max resolution I'll be dealing with. I hope you're right about demolishing everything at that res. I can't wait to get it all assembled and test it out!
 
I took advantage of the sales and upgraded my GTX 580 to an R9 290x for $280 (after rebates), upgraded my Dell 2405fpw to one of the Korean 1440p QNIX panels and also grabbed a 1TB 850 EVO for $380.

Put that on top of my 2600k @ 4.5ghz and I should be good for a few more years.

On a side note, the Sandy Bridge 2500k and 2600k chips are really legendary. I'm going into my 4th year with my 2600k and it's still going strong with little reason to upgrade.
 

Ally1987

Member
do you guys have any recommendation for a very quiet psu? my gpu is one gtx titan and a i7 3930k cpu, so i don't need more then 750w
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yes. Keep in mind, Corsair makes very little. For the most part, they purchase OEM bits and then puts them in a new case with their logo on it. There's some exceptions to this of course (headphones, keyboards, mice), but it's similar to how video card AIBs work. You might buy an EVGA card that has it's own specific cooler, but at the base it's an NVIDIA card.

If there's one thing that Corsair does well, it's their RM/AX/AXi PSUs.

That EVGA G2 is a better unit, but AFAIK is not as quiet. However, pmuch any quality PSU is going to be much much more quiet than case fans or video cards. Seasonic X series, EVGA G2, Corsair AX/AXi, CM V series, and others.
 

RGM79

Member
and the quality is good too? i've been kinda sceptical about corsair after my h100ishit

about $100ish.
i'll keep my eyes on that one

Quality of RM series tends to vary as some models were manufactured by Channel Well Tech and others by Chicony. This person had some hangups about the RM series not being high enough quality for the price and wrote a long and detailed post at the RM line's build quality compared to other higher quality power supplies. The other power supplies he compares them to are admittedly not meant for silence, but available at the same price level or are even cheaper.

This doesn't mean the RM series is awful or poor performing, for many users it does just fine and delivers the most quiet performance that people who want a quiet power supply need. If you head over to this link and look for RM series power supplies (Ctrl+F "RM") they generally get good reviews, although there is that one failed review in the middle of the chart for an older RM750 model. However, Corsair seems to have done an admirable job openly and quickly addressing that issue, changing RM750 build standards and fan control after that review (scroll to bottom).
 
Finally made up my mind and got MSI R290X. Thanks this thread for decision making,

After my rather old GTX670 it's a huge leap in all games. Also my 290X is quiet, and cold. I was a bit worrried about power but it looks loke my 650W FSP is doing great.

Once again thanks.
 
Just got the parts for my new build today and I'm excited to put it all together. Question.

If I'm not planning to overclock at all am I good just using the standard heatsink that comes with my processor? It's an i7 4790k for reference.
 

RGM79

Member
Just got the parts for my new build today and I'm excited to put it all together. Question.

If I'm not planning to overclock at all am I good just using the standard heatsink that comes with my processor? It's an i7 4790k for reference.
It might be a bit loud, but it's fine to use if not overclocking. Are you planning to overclock in the future?
 

darthbob

Member
Just got the parts for my new build today and I'm excited to put it all together. Question.

If I'm not planning to overclock at all am I good just using the standard heatsink that comes with my processor? It's an i7 4790k for reference.

Out of curiosity, why did you go for the 4790K if you knew you weren't going to overclock?
 
Yeah, there are some things to change.

If you will not be overclocking then the processor is fine. However, the 4690K is recommended if you are willing to overclock as it will have a longer useful life than the non-overclocking 4590 processor, although it will cost more. I will assume you do not want to overclock.

You chose a small compact motherboard (mATX size) and a normal mid size case. Although the smaller motherboard will fit in the larger case, I think it's best to match up the size, no reason to go with a smaller motherboard unless you absolutely needed to save money because it was cheaper or something. If you prefer a more compact computer, it would be possible to choose a smaller case and motherboard. I will choose a smaller case.

I wouldn't recommend WD Green to store the OS. It's best used as a secondary drive for storage, not for the OS. Even then, there are apparently issues with head parking (power saving feature that apparently causes a lot of issues because of how short a time and aggressive Western Digital has set it to work for). I found a cheaper faster 7200RPM Toshiba hard drive instead.

Optical drives are generally no longer needed unless you have a specific need for them.

From what I can find, Fractal power supplies are fine, but 500 watts is a little on the low side for an R9 280. I chose a decent EVGA 600B power supply instead for just 1 Euro more, 600 watts is a little more comfortable to have.

With the money saved, I was able to pick a R9 280X which will offer improved performance.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor (€184.90 @ Caseking)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (€32.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€75.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (€69.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€74.90 @ Caseking)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Black Edition Double Dissipation Video Card (€229.90 @ Caseking)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (€37.50 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€62.12 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Total: €767.20
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-10 19:16 CET+0100

The cost comes in at just under 770 Euros.


Thanks for the help, it is really appreciated.
Definitly going to consider your advice.
 

Grinchy

Banned
I don't know why I didn't just buy the 212 Evo when I bought all my other parts. I knew I'd be overclocking.

At least my case has a big opening so that I can access the CPU backplate area, but I can already tell it would have been much easier to put this thing on while the motherboard wasn't in the case.
 

kharma45

Member
Yes. Keep in mind, Corsair makes very little. For the most part, they purchase OEM bits and then puts them in a new case with their logo on it. There's some exceptions to this of course (headphones, keyboards, mice), but it's similar to how video card AIBs work. You might buy an EVGA card that has it's own specific cooler, but at the base it's an NVIDIA card.

If there's one thing that Corsair does well, it's their RM/AX/AXi PSUs.

That EVGA G2 is a better unit, but AFAIK is not as quiet. However, pmuch any quality PSU is going to be much much more quiet than case fans or video cards. Seasonic X series, EVGA G2, Corsair AX/AXi, CM V series, and others.

The RM is a very, very, very quiet unit


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/EVGA/SuperNOVA_G2_750/10.html

but I'd still have the G2 for the warranty and the better bits inside it. As you say, all top PSUs are all fairly quiet.
 
That's not a high resolution, there's no way that's normal. Sure it's not running off of the internal GPU? What are your specs, anyway?
The integrated GPU is disabled. Though the driver might not be completely removed.
With a GTX 970 there's no way that's right. I'm getting near or over 100 fps in a lot of the current games I'm playing (Metro 2033 Redux, BF4, etc).

Did you do a fresh driver install after installing the GPU?
I might need to.
Are you using a Logitech mouse by any chance? Because I ran it at 1080p just fine.

Edit: forgot to add the fact that the game has some issues with Logitech mice. Could be the case with other brands too. It causes the game to run like butt
Yes, I have a M310.
Thermal paste is wrong (probably) or vcore ain't right (reset to optimized defaults in bios and check).
Didn't think to do that. But yeah, I probably did a worse job installing the cooler than my first attempt.
which cooler
Hyper 212 Evo.
 
Got my hands on a R9 290X AMD reference card today, oh my the build quality is just fantastic. Why are'nt these types of cards more readily available?

Only downer is tad noisier compared to my Sapphire R9 280X
 

Willectro

Banned
"shits all over"

But the thing is, there's very few instances when any of that matters. Maybe on some insane socket 2011 overclock where you're able to get some dream chip and push it to 5.0 GHz+, then that extra oomph might be helpful when you're talking about 300W+ of heat. Otherwise, pmuch anything over a Hyper 212 EVO w/ quality fan is going to be overkill when you're talking about consumer socket processors.

People buy things like the H100i for aesthetics, and I get that. Personally, I always opt for AIO water cooling (outside of my custom loop machines) due to how easy it is to get in there and tinker/troubleshoot. I'll take ease of access and a bit of a price premium over a giant aluminum and copper hunk of metal hanging off my motherboard and blocking all my memory, power, and whatnot. The number of bloody knuckles I've had has reduced dramatically since I made the switch.

Agreed. Having owned the H100i, I just can't say enough negatives about it. I thought from installation to configuration and maintenance were all headaches. The only use I can see for it is when space is an issue but 240mm mounts are available. But even then, there's better options for cheaper, that run quieter. After my subpar experience with the H100i, I decided I didn't want any more issues and got the NH-D15 which has been bliss in every way (except price). That said, I have nothing against the 212, which admittedly in my case would have been the optimal solution from the onset.
 
and the quality is good too? i've been kinda sceptical about corsair after my h100ishit



about $100ish.
i'll keep my eyes on that one

G2 is better PSU than RM750 as Corsair "saved" a few cents and RM series has low quality capacitors.

Also G2 has 10 year warranty.
 
Oh fuck my life. Went to check the price on 290/290x today and almost all the stores here in sweden have stopped selling them. And those that do sell it for around 1000kr more expensive than the regular price it had 2 days ago.

Why is this happening to me, i was only 18 days away from having 3000kr, and now they're all 4000kr or even more. Fuck me.
 

Kyne

Member
So after tweaking with the parts a bit this is what I came up with. I already have a Case/Secondary HD/Heatsink..

Any more suggestions before I pull the trigger this weekend?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($101.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 290 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $788.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-10 17:52 EST-0500
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
truly off, not just sleep? most board s have WOL (Wake on lan) and you can configure it to turn on from a network request.

For remotely controlling with my phone, I like unified remote for android/windows machines

So I just need to figure out how to use the WOL on a Z87 from a powered-off state?
 
I need help with Wireless coverage.

What's good equipment to reach 2-3 houses away and can pass through walls?

Suggestions on routers, extenders, etc?
 

blado

Member
My Qnix monitor arrived about a week ago. Works perfectly, and no dead pixels. The only negative is the ips glow, but that's to be expected on a PLS/IPS monitor.
 
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