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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Right click the speaker icon in the bottom right of your screen in the taskbar, click playback devices.
There you should see NVIDIA HDMI Output, right click and set that as the default audio device.
It's recognizing it but says it's not plugged in? My TV is showing up under its name as the default/active device. Does the same in nvidia control panel
I enabled the integrated GPU a couple weeks back for a dual monitor setup but I'm still outputting video to my TV through the GPU.
I enabled the integrated GPU a couple weeks back for a dual monitor setup but I'm still outputting video to my TV through the GPU.
I tried that stuff, but in my Realtek manager (the latest drivers from Asus for my motherboard), no DTS or Dolby Digital logos appear, despite the fact that my Motherboard supports them.
So due to a recent move, I can no longer connect my PC to our internet router because I'm in my bedroom upstairs, and the router is down in the living room. I'm living with my parents FYI, so putting it anywhere else is out of the question.
So my question! My mom is willing to buy whatever I need for wireless since she chose to move. I want to get something that works well, but I don't want to make her put out a fortune for it. So not necessarily budget, but not top of the line. What all do I need?
My build is a fairly standard high end, here's a link.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nWnJqs
So my question! My mom is willing to buy whatever I need for wireless since she chose to move. I want to get something that works well, but I don't want to make her put out a fortune for it. So not necessarily budget, but not top of the line. What all do I need?
My build is a fairly standard high end, here's a link.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nWnJqs
Hey guys,
I've update my parts list. I'm buying these parts by the end of the month, so if you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Thanks!
Please note that since there is a Microcenter close to me, I'll probably be able to get the CPU cheaper than the price listed here. I also have a spare TB hard drive that I plan to use with the build. I am planning to use this with a 1440p ultra wide monitor, mostly for gaming and little bit of editing. My budget is $1500, but if I can get the prices a little lower, then that'd be awesome!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($116.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($105.42 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card ($549.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Total: $1409.26
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-12 23:11 EDT-0400
I've update my parts list. I'm buying these parts by the end of the month, so if you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Thanks!
Please note that since there is a Microcenter close to me, I'll probably be able to get the CPU cheaper than the price listed here. I also have a spare TB hard drive that I plan to use with the build. I am planning to use this with a 1440p ultra wide monitor, mostly for gaming and little bit of editing. My budget is $1500, but if I can get the prices a little lower, then that'd be awesome!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($116.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($105.42 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB STRIX Video Card ($549.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Total: $1409.26
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-12 23:11 EDT-0400
BigMastadon
Member
Posted this on page 155 but didn't really have any replies to it. Sorry about posting it again but I need some advice on monitors.
I want to do a dual monitor but I'm not sure at the moment. My desk is weird (pictured) and I don't know how well dual monitors would look unless I find one that can move upwards on its stand. Should I do a 27" for my main and a 24" for the left one? That would somewhat even it out.
Main usage is gaming/video editing. Left one would be for monitoring streams/browsing net while gaming. Light video watching on that one as well. Main one would be the center one for gaming.
Budget: $350-400 for both combined. I've thought about just scrapping the dual monitor idea for now and putting the money towards a good main one. The purchase ideally would be done at Best Buy because I have a 10% off coupon and $10 off in reward certs.
Thanks in advance!
I want to do a dual monitor but I'm not sure at the moment. My desk is weird (pictured) and I don't know how well dual monitors would look unless I find one that can move upwards on its stand. Should I do a 27" for my main and a 24" for the left one? That would somewhat even it out.
Main usage is gaming/video editing. Left one would be for monitoring streams/browsing net while gaming. Light video watching on that one as well. Main one would be the center one for gaming.
Budget: $350-400 for both combined. I've thought about just scrapping the dual monitor idea for now and putting the money towards a good main one. The purchase ideally would be done at Best Buy because I have a 10% off coupon and $10 off in reward certs.
Thanks in advance!
Glass Shark
Banned
Update regarding my CPU overclock:
I just re-ran benchmarks in all the games I tested previously, and while some of them saw minor performance increases, a few (Metro: Last Light, Batman: Arkham Origins) actually saw significant performance decreases during sections designed to test physics.
My CPU passed a stress and burn-in test at the speeds I overclocked to without hitting temperature or voltage limits. (4.4 GHz up from the stock 3.4). But with these games seeing such drastic performance drops in these sections, does it mean I need to revisit some element of the overclocking? To be honest, if this is going to be the norm I'll just set the thing back to stock. The modest gains I get in some games would not be worth the headache of issues like this in others.
I just re-ran benchmarks in all the games I tested previously, and while some of them saw minor performance increases, a few (Metro: Last Light, Batman: Arkham Origins) actually saw significant performance decreases during sections designed to test physics.
My CPU passed a stress and burn-in test at the speeds I overclocked to without hitting temperature or voltage limits. (4.4 GHz up from the stock 3.4). But with these games seeing such drastic performance drops in these sections, does it mean I need to revisit some element of the overclocking? To be honest, if this is going to be the norm I'll just set the thing back to stock. The modest gains I get in some games would not be worth the headache of issues like this in others.
I'll take a look at those cards, thanks.
My budget is around $150-$200 for the card alone.
Powerline ethernet networking is nice, should be more reliable than wireless. It uses the electricial wiring in your house like an extension for ethernet cabling. It only works well if your house doesn't have old wiring, though. I think as long as the house is less than 20~30 years old it's fine?
TP-Link two-piece powerline kit for $40. Otherwise, get an PCI-E wifi adaptor like this TP-Link model for $37.
How about this?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($532.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1244.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-13 00:03 EDT-0400
I changed the RAM for a slightly cheaper but same speed set that doesn't match colors, a slower and cheaper yet still decent SSD, a cheaper GTX 980 that doesn't have the semi-fanless mode but still has an excellent cooler and same clock speed, a cheaper but functional case, and a newer bronze rated power supply that received a very good review from Jonny Guru.
DVD drives are no long as necessary as they used to be, USB drives and digital distribution have basically replaced them. You can also officially install Windows via USB, it'll be faster.
The performance between your build and mine in games is virtually the same (same processor and graphics card). What sort of editing are you doing? If it's only a little video editing on the side, then you could go with an i5 4690K ($200 at Microcenter) which is basically the same as the i7 4790K except it doesn't have hyperthreading and is clocked slightly slower (doesn't make a difference once you overclock it). They have nearly identical performance in games, it'll just be slightly slower for video encoding and stuff like that.
I just saw a nice deal on a Zotac GTX 980. I'm without a graphics card.
Do you guys think it would be a good investment? It's about 520 euros.
One thing that bothers me is that I plan to use G-Sync or FreeSync. Imagine that Nvidia down the line decides to discontinue G-Sync and go the FreeSync way. Is Nvidia updating drivers for these a possibility to make it work?
Also, would the R9 290 be good enough for 1440p gaming?
Do you guys think it would be a good investment? It's about 520 euros.
One thing that bothers me is that I plan to use G-Sync or FreeSync. Imagine that Nvidia down the line decides to discontinue G-Sync and go the FreeSync way. Is Nvidia updating drivers for these a possibility to make it work?
Also, would the R9 290 be good enough for 1440p gaming?
Johnnycrisper
Neo Member
I have the same desk and I'm using dual 24" monitors. I took off the two top pieces on both sides which gives room for 2 24" monitors.
HAF 912?
BigMastadon
Member
I wish that was an option for me -.-. Parent's gave me this desk but didn't want me to modify it. That's why I was thinking 27" for center and 24" for left to balance the height difference.
I knew I recognized it! That was my first case. Obviously you got the hdd cage used up but you could also velcro it in the bottom slot of the 5.25 drive bay. More hidden.
At the beginning of the year I got this: 2 x 2.5 HDD/SSD to 5.25 Adapter/Bracket with 1 x 3.5 Device/Drive Bay
Looks good and does a good job. Fits into the 5.25 bay and holds 2 SSDs and one HDD if needed. The black will match your case too.
Thank you sir! Is there any reason to go with the $70 600 Powerline instead that 500?
No problem.
It's faster, that's all. Up to you if the extra $30 is worth the speed increase.
I found this D-Link kit for $39, $1 cheaper, also rated for the same speed as the $40 TP-Link kit. D-Link is a somewhat better known brand, if it matters. Both have good reviews.
If there's one bad thing about powerline networking, it's that speeds are misleadingly advertised. According to this performance chart, the $40 TP-Link AV500 kit will get about 74 Mbps, while the $75~80 AV600/AV2-S500 models get 130~190 Mbps, about 2 to 2.5 times as fast. The $40 model should be good enough. If you have an internet connection that is too fast for it, or if you want to do a lot of streaming and file serving/transferring over your home network to and from that PC, then get the faster model.
So, I got myself a brand new pc and thus, came a nice new graphics card(a stock gtx evga 980 if your wondering.) so, naturally like pretty much every other pc user, I'd decided that I must push my gtx 980 to limit by the way of overclocking. Unfortunately I'm pretty much a newbie to this sorta of thing and for the last couple of days I been kinda been fumbling my way around. So thus, I decided to come here to get some much needed help and advice.
Basically, their are 3 things I am wondering about and those are the power target, the voltage, and the memory.
With the power target, am I correct in thinking that by increasing it ,I am telling the gpu that it can take more power from the psu, If so, would It be safe to just max it out? I have a pretty big psu ( a 1300 evga super nova G2 to be exact) also, would it hurt my card in the long run to have it max out like that?
Now, with the voltage I have seen benchmarks were they would max it out, I'd assume they do this for benchmarking reason, with that being said what is safe place to be at with the voltage? like how high should I go in other words?
Finally, the thing I'm having the most trouble with, the memory, so basically what I am trying to figure out is how should it be balance, Like, should it be higher then the gpu clock or should it be somewhere around the middle you something like that?
as you can see gaf I'm a bit lost when it comes to overclocking and could really use some help and the last thing I want to do is blow up my card because I have no idea what I am doing so, please, help.
Hey! Witcher 3/GTAV/Batman coming this year and my good old 670 is not enough for the current 1440p display, so planning to upgrade GTX980.
Who has currently the "best" price/performance wice card? I was looking the Gigabyte WindForce III, but not sure if there are other alternatives, price should be under 700€.
Has there been any words for 8GB VRAM models?
Who has currently the "best" price/performance wice card? I was looking the Gigabyte WindForce III, but not sure if there are other alternatives, price should be under 700€.
Has there been any words for 8GB VRAM models?
What country are you in? What are the rest of your system specs?
Finland. i5-2500k @ 4GHz, 8GB HyperX, Samsung 830 SSD drive, Asrock P67 Extreme4, Fractal Define R3, Windows 8.1.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Cheapest, lower quality brand Inno3d. 560E.
2nd cheapest, MSI ref cooler. Lower factory OC. 599E.
3rd cheapest, MSI, aftermarket cooler, higher OC factory. 620E
I would personally go with 3.
All of these come with Witcher 3.
So, I got myself a brand new pc and thus, came a nice new graphics card(a stock gtx evga 980 if your wondering.) so, naturally like pretty much every other pc user, I'd decided that I must push my gtx 980 to limit by the way of overclocking. Unfortunately I'm pretty much a newbie to this sorta of thing and for the last couple of days I been kinda been fumbling my way around. So thus, I decided to come here to get some much needed help and advice.
Basically, their are 3 things I am wondering about and those are the power target, the voltage, and the memory.
With the power target, am I correct in thinking that by increasing it ,I am telling the gpu that it can take more power from the psu, If so, would It be safe to just max it out? I have a pretty big psu ( a 1300 evga super nova G2 to be exact) also, would it hurt my card in the long run to have it max out like that?
Now, with the voltage I have seen benchmarks were they would max it out, I'd assume they do this for benchmarking reason, with that being said what is safe place to be at with the voltage? like how high should I go in other words?
Finally, the thing I'm having the most trouble with, the memory, so basically what I am trying to figure out is how should it be balance, Like, should it be higher then the gpu clock or should it be somewhere around the middle you something like that?
as you can see gaf I'm a bit lost when it comes to overclocking and could really use some help and the last thing I want to do is blow up my card because I have no idea what I am doing so, please, help.
It's fine to max it all out Nvidia have already said these options are safe.
There is no relation to memory clock vs Gpu clock just set them as high as possible whilst remaining stable.
Am I crazy or has prices for ram gone up from a couple years ago? Normal ddr3 ram. I'm starting to figure out which parts I need for my gf's build, and when I looked at ram I could of sworn I got mine for a lot cheaper. She won't be gaming, just video editing. Any recommendations? Figure at least 16gb. Thanks.
If i do max out both the voltage & power target how would that effect the lifespan of the card? Also, I'm Kinda of worried about my temps, as they tend to go up to nearly 85 c° Is that too hot? Do you think i should fix my gpu fan to go to 100% (i have it set to auto Right now)
Ok here are things to consider
As the temps go past 70c then 80c the clocks throttle back.
If you increase the voltage you can reduce your overall max clock since you may hit the power target earlier.
You must balance clocks and voltage in the most efficient way, just having volts at max won't increase the max attainable speed as you may hit the power target limit.
No it won't effect lifespan unless you run fur mark 24/7.
Imo 85c is too hot, ideally 70-75c is the max you want to hit otherwise you get throttling.
I don't like raising fan speed unless benchmarking as noise is priority for me. But up to you.
Use the EVGA Precision on screen display while running Unigene Heaven benchmark to get the optimum overclock.
How do you make a 1:1 copy of a custom made DVD with a custom made UI/menu?
Probably not the best place to ask, but I thought I'd give it a try. Appreciate any help.
Probably not the best place to ask, but I thought I'd give it a try. Appreciate any help.
For those curious: It's my sisters marriage DVD and she was only given 4 copies. Guy told her, that we can try and make more copies, if we want.
DDR3 prices have gone up due to several issues like slowing production in favor of DDR4, supply competition with other products using memory chips, and a fire at a large factory that supplied memory chips to most of the world.
Well, 16GB is enough for heavy video editing and 99% of consumer needs, I'd only recommend more if it was for heavy workstation duty like running multiple virtual machines or something.
This is a pretty good price, 16GB of Apotop 2133MHz CL9 RAM for $106.
You mean this DataVac? I hear they're very noisy..
Use Imgburn to create an ISO image, then you can burn that ISO to as many discs as you want, and it'll be completely identical.
Edit: Beat by Liljoka
Try ImgBurn. First create an image of the DVD. Then burn the img file to a blank DVD.
SmashN'Grab
Member
So my SSD takes one minute and 20 seconds to cold boot to windows. I assume that's not normal. What's the story here? PC is new (built on Monday). Obviously fresh install of windows. Hard drives set to AHCI in BIOS. Can't figure it out. There's nothing but windows on the machine, not like I've a load of programs jostling for start-up.
HDD adds time to bootup. The more you have the longer it takes. Disconnect them and your time should greatly decrease. If not, something else could be the problem.
Thanks again rgm. Knew I didn't pay nearly that much when I purchased my 16gb kit back in 2012. Not looking forward to ddr4 when I finish my own uprgrade later this year. My Evga psu comes in today, so I can finally finish my little upgrade I just did. Looking forward to the wire management again!
Azzurri
Gold Member
Ahh I was wondering this too.
Will try that. Thank you.
I never actually burned a DVD. Hell, I didn't even have an optical drive installed until today and that's solely for this purpose.
I use amazon.co.uk or scan.co.uk myself. As for pricing differences, generally speaking, convert the dollar price to pounds. We usually pay a bit more here for PC parts.
pcpartpicker should sort you out pretty nicely, me old mucker. Love a duck, etc.
Scan are my favourite, but Novatech and ebuyer have been really good for me as well. I'm someone who tries to avoid Amazon for personal reasons but you can't deny their return policy is excellent. You can try Flubit to get money off of Amazon products, but most likely it'll be shipped by Amazon anyway.
Drama Zed Nod
Member
PC Bros,
I've got awesome headphones but i find that i don't always want to wear headphones, so i'm going to get some speakers for my rig.
My current choice is the AudioEngine A5+
http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Powered-Speaker-Systems/A5-plus-B-Powered-Speakers
What else should i be looking at as a comparison that is around the same quality / price?
I won't be doing anything with them other than connecting them to my PC (possibly an external DAC in the future) and it will be mainly for Games (and some Spotify).
I've seem some glowing recommendations around here for AudioEngine stuff but wanted to check before throwing down the cash.
I've got awesome headphones but i find that i don't always want to wear headphones, so i'm going to get some speakers for my rig.
My current choice is the AudioEngine A5+
http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Powered-Speaker-Systems/A5-plus-B-Powered-Speakers
What else should i be looking at as a comparison that is around the same quality / price?
I won't be doing anything with them other than connecting them to my PC (possibly an external DAC in the future) and it will be mainly for Games (and some Spotify).
I've seem some glowing recommendations around here for AudioEngine stuff but wanted to check before throwing down the cash.
hey folks, my videocard got busted and i'm looking for a replacement. i can afford either the geforce 960gtx or a r9 280, but i don't know if my 550w xfx psu will be able to handle the 280 (which afaik is better?) and was hoping i could get some advice
i have a i5 2500k, 8 gigs of ram, two hard drives and don't do any overclocking or any other scary things like that
do you guys think my psu will be able to sustain that?
thanks!
i have a i5 2500k, 8 gigs of ram, two hard drives and don't do any overclocking or any other scary things like that
do you guys think my psu will be able to sustain that?
thanks!
Your PSU will be fine, Ahri-bro.
If you can, though, try and get a 280X. PS:
Overclocking isn't scary!
Seeing the RAM price posts I decided to look at the price of the RAM RGM79 recommended via partpicker and I do see that the price has jumped $10 since last week.
I'm going away next week and then the upgrade will commence at the end of the month when I get back. I've got some cash to get parts now...does it make sense to jump on RAM (or any other part) now before I go, or should I not bother?
Here's the list of parts with original prices. That RAM is now $155 and the CPU is $285. Cooler Master is now $33 lol.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($258.32 @ TigerDirect Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($145.63 @ DirectCanada)
Other: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99)
Total: $638.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-07 06:24 EST-0500
I'm going away next week and then the upgrade will commence at the end of the month when I get back. I've got some cash to get parts now...does it make sense to jump on RAM (or any other part) now before I go, or should I not bother?
Here's the list of parts with original prices. That RAM is now $155 and the CPU is $285. Cooler Master is now $33 lol.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($258.32 @ TigerDirect Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($145.63 @ DirectCanada)
Other: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99)
Total: $638.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-07 06:24 EST-0500
Your PSU should be fine for a R9 280.
Be aware that the 280 is essentially a Radeon HD 7950 with a slightly increased GPU clock. That GPU was introduced in late 2011 and is due to be replaced somewhere between April and June this year. It's something you should perhaps consider waiting for, given the timing.
Is this just for gaming or are you doing editing/other work? You can do fine with 8GB if it's just for gaming. That motherboard is pretty so-so as well.
Thanks! I've read that there has been few returns in that MSI card (just bad luck?). Any info about Gigabyte G1, good/bad?
thanks!
there's a big price difference between a 280 and a 280x tho, about 100usd (computer parts are really expensive here), so it's kind of out of my reach
would the 960 be better? those two are the most expensive i can afford short of buying something used
i don't mind waiting but i don't know what i would be waiting for? or how long?
No this is just gaming, no editing.
I tend to go a while between upgrading. My last build was an E8400 with 4GB which made sense at the time. Would an extra 4GB now be helping me? Would it make sense to go for the overkill at 16GB now instead of 8GB, to 'future-proof' a bit?
Big Chungus
Member
Sent in my XFX 6850 video card to get RMAd about a month ago, just got a response from them and they're sending me a newer card, a R7 265.
Is that any better?
Is that any better?
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