AbortedWalrusFetus
Member
Yeah, I just can't remember if I did or not. The USB ports and the reset button, power button, and all power/drive LEDs are working just fine. I can't believe I either didn't notice or forgot to plug in the audio cables.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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Yeah, I just can't remember if I did or not. The USB ports and the reset button, power button, and all power/drive LEDs are working just fine. I can't believe I either didn't notice or forgot to plug in the audio cables.
At that price range you're probably better off getting headphones if sound quality is important. Otherwise stick to a couple of desktop speakers. There's really no such thing as a decent sounding $100 5.1.
Shortly after I made that post, I heard a crunch (not a pop) again and it cut off. Absolutely coming from the PSU, as it was getting quite hot near the cables. The PC is now fully unplugged, and won't be going on again.
Looking at getting this now:
It's going to be combined with his existing 4GB RAM, ATi 5770 (lol), and SSDs/HDDs.
Yeah! my budget is £600 and looking for a PC that is great for gaming and video editing. Any suggestions would be great, Thank You.
So I know isn't a hardware problem (probably) but I was wondering if anybody has seen this before. If I boot Windows 8 in 'safe' mode (the auto recovery menu) the keyboard and mouse don't work. Same happens with WinPE disks. They're generic USB devices, which work fine once Windows starts and don't need custom drivers. They also work fine in the BIOS.
The problem is if my PC fails to start Windows for any reason, it's difficult to troubleshoot without a keyboard or mouse.. (Also, they're not plugged into USB 3 controller).
The problem is if my PC fails to start Windows for any reason, it's difficult to troubleshoot without a keyboard or mouse.. (Also, they're not plugged into USB 3 controller).
opticalmace
Member
I hope some new Gsync monitors come out soon. My current monitor is about 6 years old and I'm ready to upgrade. My video card is also 3-4 years old though, so I would need a new vid card as well... bugger.
Looks like you have a plan. What's the budget for parts? If you plan to spend as little as possible, I have some recommendations. You can save about £40 going with these parts instead:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (£49.14 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£64.62 @ Amazon UK)
Case: BitFenix Neos Black ATX Mid Tower Case (£29.75 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£46.09 @ Aria PC)
Total: £189.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 20:52 GMT+0000
Do you have any parts from an old computer that you'll be reusing? Case, RAM hard drive, power supply?
Here's a starting build, with emphasis on a strong processor and graphics card. In the future you can add a £30 CPU cooler to replace the stock Intel cooler, and overclock for added performance.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.50 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£64.62 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£43.35 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£35.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 290 4GB PCS+ Video Card (£199.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: BitFenix Neos Black ATX Mid Tower Case (£29.75 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£58.57 @ Scan.co.uk)
Total: £599.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 20:59 GMT+0000
For video editing I'd usually recommend 16GB, but that £200 Powercolor PCS+ R9 290 is just too good to pass up for gaming. Even if I tried to save money for more RAM by dropping down to the cheapest R9 280X (£178), it'd only be a difference of £22 and not enough for 16GB. You'll want the R9 290 instead of the R9 280X, it'll tide you over for a few years of 1080p gaming, no problem. You can always add extra RAM, while replacing a graphics card with a stronger model is always a larger cost.
Pardon the dumb question, but have you tried unplugging and replugging into different USB ports while the computer is in safe mode? What motherboard model do you have?
Great list, Thank You and btw I am currently using laptops,so no pc components.
hi guys,
maybe off-topic but: What computer should i buy when i just want to run software like zBrush, 3DS Max/Maya and photoshop. Games would be nice but i'm not overly enthusiastic about becoming a PC gamer yet (although, if i would upgrade later to play them , that'll be good)
I was thinking would premade PC's on amazon be okay? any help would be great
maybe off-topic but: What computer should i buy when i just want to run software like zBrush, 3DS Max/Maya and photoshop. Games would be nice but i'm not overly enthusiastic about becoming a PC gamer yet (although, if i would upgrade later to play them , that'll be good)
I was thinking would premade PC's on amazon be okay? any help would be great
Based on experience, this isnt a rumour or anything, its my prediction.
Intel wont release 8c Consumer chips anytime soon thats for sure. They delayed 8c chips until Haswell E, and the server parts already had 8c or more at ivy bridge. The trend will continue since Intel makes lots of money through Xeon parts and consumer parts are just a side cash grab.
Games literally have only started to utilise 4c8t CPUs (Ubisoft mainly) and at most when other games catch up, itll be Ubisoft needing a hexcore CPU before anyone else, most likely in around 18months. Intel should have released Skylake by around then, and very likely the highest consumer chip will be 6c, and probably 8c-10c on the E lineup. Generation after that likely sees no change in core numbers.
I currently have an Intel 730 480GB SSD and was thinking of adding an extra one to run in a RAID 0 setup. Just wondering if this is easy to set up and is there a way to switch all my data from a single drive to RAID 0 setup or would it be better to just erase and reformat everything?
You don't really have anything to gain from running SSD's in RAID 0, I wouldn't bother.
For all of those programs, you just need 8GB of RAM or more and any midrange AMD/Nvidia GPU will do.hi guys,
maybe off-topic but: What computer should i buy when i just want to run software like zBrush, 3DS Max/Maya and photoshop. Games would be nice but i'm not overly enthusiastic about becoming a PC gamer yet (although, if i would upgrade later to play them , that'll be good)
I was thinking would premade PC's on amazon be okay? any help would be great
Sorry, we don't really recommend prebuilt systems here. I can recommend you a list of parts if you have a budget, though.
Inferno313
Banned
Hey Gaf,
Having a really odd power issue with my PC. Two days in a row, I've gone to turn on my PC from being shut down. It wouldn't turn on. In both situations I turned the PSU on and off, unplugged and plugged in the power cord from the PSU, unplugged the power cord from the power strip it's plugged into, and plug it directly into the wall, tried multiple outlets. None of this worked to turn on my PC.
In both situations I picked up my PC, took it into the living room and plugged it in, and it powered on right away. Then I took the PC back to my desk, plugged it into the power strip exactly as it was in the first place and it now worked fine. What could this possibly mean? What could I possibly do to troubleshoot the issue?
Having a really odd power issue with my PC. Two days in a row, I've gone to turn on my PC from being shut down. It wouldn't turn on. In both situations I turned the PSU on and off, unplugged and plugged in the power cord from the PSU, unplugged the power cord from the power strip it's plugged into, and plug it directly into the wall, tried multiple outlets. None of this worked to turn on my PC.
In both situations I picked up my PC, took it into the living room and plugged it in, and it powered on right away. Then I took the PC back to my desk, plugged it into the power strip exactly as it was in the first place and it now worked fine. What could this possibly mean? What could I possibly do to troubleshoot the issue?
If you can get a i7 2600k for 130 dollars, that is bank.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£167.50 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£64.62 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£43.35 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£35.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 270X 2GB PCS+ Video Card (£124.81 @ More Computers)
Case: BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case (£28.47 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£46.09 @ Aria PC)
Total: £510.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 22:51 GMT+0000
Best video card you'll get, it'll be good enough for 1080p medium/high settings for games, while meeting the requirements for your graphics programs.
How long are you unplugging the computer for before plugging it back in? Have you checked the motherboard LEDs? Could it be the amount of time spent carrying the case into the living room giving either the computer or the power strip enough time to.. "reset"? Maybe it's faulty AC outlets or power strip.. have you checked if other devices work in those outlets?
It's difficult to troubleshoot because it could be any number of things. All that's there to do is trial and error. Try using a different power cord, power strip, surge protector, test the outlet to see if it works properly, etc. You haven't made any physical changes to your computer recently, have you?
You can test the power supply to see if it's not turning on or if the computer case has a faulty switch. The paper clip method, unplug your PSU's 24 pin cable and give it a try. You won't need to take the PSU out, although depending on certain things it may be safer to disconnect or just remove the PSU from the PC before testing it.
Inferno313
Banned
That's true. I'm not giving it a ton of time when I go to turn the PSU on/of and plug/unplug the cables. I'll give that a try next time it does this. I wouldn't be surprised if there's some problem with the power strip or outlets, as I got the powerstrip from my dad and it's probably at least a few years old, and my apartment building seems to have been built in the 60s or 70s. Although my TV/Monitor is plugged into the same power strip and has no problem getting power ever.
Next time it happens I'll give it more time to power cycle and I'll test some other things in the outlet and power strip.
Rebel Leader
THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
My computer just did it agian;
stars up, shuts down
Starts up and shows UEFI bios (nothing there), shuts downs
Starts normally
trying 1 stick of ram
stars up, shuts down
Starts up and shows UEFI bios (nothing there), shuts downs
Starts normally
trying 1 stick of ram
I somehow went from upgrading my power supply to upgrading pretty much everything else. Went with:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H-BK ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($147.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 1300W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($162.04 @ Newegg)
Total: $949.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 18:52 EST-0500
Went kind of overboard with the power supply, but I didn't want to run into the same situation of hitting a wall down the line again. It also came with a $35 rebate. I could have saved money on the MB, but I needed one with a PCI slot for my soundcard that I need for my setup. Already have a GTX 970, decent CPU cooler, SDD, and other drives.
I now have everything sitting here, except the case. It's killing me!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H-BK ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($147.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 1300W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($162.04 @ Newegg)
Total: $949.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 18:52 EST-0500
Went kind of overboard with the power supply, but I didn't want to run into the same situation of hitting a wall down the line again. It also came with a $35 rebate. I could have saved money on the MB, but I needed one with a PCI slot for my soundcard that I need for my setup. Already have a GTX 970, decent CPU cooler, SDD, and other drives.
I now have everything sitting here, except the case. It's killing me!
SpeedyDesiato
Neo Member
Never done this before - I hope I'm doing it right. Thanks for any/all help, guys!
Budget: £800-1000; United Kingdom
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Light Gaming, 5
Gaming, 5
Emulation (PS2/Wii), 1
Video Editing, 2
Streaming games in HD, 3
3D/Model work (and what program), 1
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback). 5
Monitor Resolution: I'd like to play at 1080p, and I will be buying a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
30 FPS is fine; 60 would be nice. Games I'd like to be able to play: the Telltale games; Assassin's Creed Unity (sue me); Witcher 3; Dragon Age Inquisition; Far Cry 4
Looking to reuse any parts?: None
When will you build?: No deadline, but I'd like to build it within the next month.
Will you be overclocking?: I don't know how to at present, but perhaps with a sick PC I will look into it!
Budget: £800-1000; United Kingdom
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Light Gaming, 5
Gaming, 5
Emulation (PS2/Wii), 1
Video Editing, 2
Streaming games in HD, 3
3D/Model work (and what program), 1
General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback). 5
Monitor Resolution: I'd like to play at 1080p, and I will be buying a new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
30 FPS is fine; 60 would be nice. Games I'd like to be able to play: the Telltale games; Assassin's Creed Unity (sue me); Witcher 3; Dragon Age Inquisition; Far Cry 4
Looking to reuse any parts?: None
When will you build?: No deadline, but I'd like to build it within the next month.
Will you be overclocking?: I don't know how to at present, but perhaps with a sick PC I will look into it!
Which card is it? My first G1 was pretty bad after a few days. I exchanged it for a new one which has been super quiet.
It's a G1. Did you find the exchange process pretty simple?
It was super easy through newegg. I think you have to pay shipping cost to them, and they pay for shipping back. I'm a member of their premier club so shipping was free, main reason I did it.
Question, was the sound you were hearing more like a high pitched sound, or a buzzing?
A loud buzzing noise. It would go in and out when idle, playing anything would make a steady loud buzz.
Monitor in budget or extra?
SpeedyDesiato
Neo Member
Included. I do have a monitor but I don't think it's much cop anymore, so a new one is probably needed.
I do have a mouse and keyboard, but I'd also probably need a new case to house it all as well included in that.
Hmm, that's not the sound I appear to be having. This is a high pitched noise... not particularly loud but constant enough to be weirdly annoying.
Might be a fan, I'll have to test parts individually.
Agreed with the front fan. Thats producing 90% of the noise. Its just that I thought this build would be a lot quieter than it is. Its not really a problem as I use headphones as well and my previous build sounded like a jet engine when it was on.
exmachina64
Banned
As the time to make a final decision approaches, I'm considering three builds.
Current Specs: None
Budget: Roughly $1500, tops out around $1550 max.
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
Specific Games: Dragon Age: Inquisition, Project CARS, The Witcher 3 (1080p 60fps, high settings)
When: Soon
Reusing: Possibly using a Fractal Design Core 1000 on hand.
Overclocking: CPU, RAM (I know it doesn't do anything, but it's close enough in price to DDR3-1600.), GPU
Disclaimer: I'm in the U.S., but the only realistic options are Newegg and Amazon.
Build 1: Micro ATX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII GENE Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($209.79 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($422.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($369.95 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1530.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 21:29 EST-0500
Build 2: Mini ITX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($559.99)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1445.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 21:14 EST-0500
Build 3: ATX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($559.99)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (136.85 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1491.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 21:15 EST-0500
I was able to make space for a 1TB SSD in Build 1 at the expense of the 980. In Builds 2 and 3, I'd rather slot in an SSD next year.
Anyway, sorry for the long post and indecisiveness, but please give me some feedback.
Current Specs: None
Budget: Roughly $1500, tops out around $1550 max.
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
Specific Games: Dragon Age: Inquisition, Project CARS, The Witcher 3 (1080p 60fps, high settings)
When: Soon
Reusing: Possibly using a Fractal Design Core 1000 on hand.
Overclocking: CPU, RAM (I know it doesn't do anything, but it's close enough in price to DDR3-1600.), GPU
Disclaimer: I'm in the U.S., but the only realistic options are Newegg and Amazon.
Build 1: Micro ATX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII GENE Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($209.79 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($422.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($369.95 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1530.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 21:29 EST-0500
Build 2: Mini ITX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($155.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($559.99)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1445.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 21:14 EST-0500
Build 3: ATX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($559.99)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (136.85 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1491.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 21:15 EST-0500
I was able to make space for a 1TB SSD in Build 1 at the expense of the 980. In Builds 2 and 3, I'd rather slot in an SSD next year.
Anyway, sorry for the long post and indecisiveness, but please give me some feedback.
Honestly, the size is totally up to you. That's something you'll need to decide for yourself. I wouldn't go mini-ATX unless you really want something very small, but that's just IMO (because it leaves basically no room for expansion, and you'll have to avoid some large GPU's).
For the SSD thing, if the choice is 970+SSD or 980, I go 970+SSD every time. The 980 is a pretty poor value anyway (but if you want it, get it, it's your build!).
exmachina64
Banned
True.
For example, in the ITX build, I started off with the same 970 in the Micro ATX build. The problem was that it couldn't fit. I like the size, but I'm worried about how cramped it will be. I would already have to mount the cooler horizontally. On the other hand, Kennah and others have had positive experiences.
Objectively, I know you're right, but idea of pushing the boundaries with everything else is intoxicating.
Edit: This might work.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($559.99)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($89.80 @ Amazon)
Total: $1542.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-15 22:46 EST-0500
Hey guys I'm thinking of buying this for $345
SAPPHIRE 100352-3L Radeon HD 7950 3GB 384-bit GDDR5
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155
Crucial DDR3 8GB 240pin 1333 RAM
What PSU, Case, and HDD would you recommend to go along with it?
SAPPHIRE 100352-3L Radeon HD 7950 3GB 384-bit GDDR5
Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155
Crucial DDR3 8GB 240pin 1333 RAM
What PSU, Case, and HDD would you recommend to go along with it?
All three of the things you are requesting are fairly subjective. There is a whole section on the front page to help you pick out a case, HDD is just pick what size and format you want (SSD, HDD, 1TB, 128GB, etc.) and find the one that has the best value for the price, and power supplies are very straight forward just figure out how much power you need and look at the recommended PSUs on the front page. As for the rest of the build I don't know, it certainly looks pretty god damn decent but I don't know how you are getting such a low price without buying things used, and I wouldn't recommend buying things used.
exmachina64
Banned
Yeah the parts are used. What's so bad about that?
The typical concern is that you don't know what conditions they've experienced. In the heyday of coin mining, AMD cards were used intensively in quad-Crossfire configurations, then sold when they had outlived their usefulness. Miners were using plastic crates for rigs.
That's not to say that the previous owner of your components even bothered overclocking or didn't give their PC proper maintenance, but those are the main concerns.
Besides the components you plan to purchase used, what's your budget?
Well after I buy the parts I listed above I would have $150 left so that. I plan on temporarily(until I get paid) using a old HDD I have lying around so that I can put that money towards the case and PSU
If you live near a Microcentre store, you can pick up an i5 4690K for just $180. Otherwise, you can get a brand new processor, motherboard, and RAM for $356, and live off integrated graphics for now.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $355.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-16 02:10 EST-0500
Have you got an air compressor or multiple cans of compressed air?
exmachina64
Banned
I take it you're in the U.S.?
The motherboard you're purchasing is an ATX motherboard, so you'll need to estimate the power draw of your components. Besides that, look at the suggestions in the OP to figure out how to divide it. With a small budget, you'll have to compromise on what you get, i.e. a better power supply and a cheap case, vice versa or some kind of balance.
Edit:
You're right, you're right. I'm just feeling that itch. I need to be more reasonable and get something like this.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII GENE Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($209.79 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($369.95 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($89.80 @ Amazon)
Total: $1382.49
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-16 02:12 EST-0500
If you or anyone else sees any compatibility issues, let me know.
Yeah I'm in the US.
How would I estimate the power consumption?
Also, now that I think about it. My budget is slightly higher if we take my best buy credit into account. Have a $40 gift card + $15 rewards certificate
I've used my trusty air compressor to clean most of it. But there's still some clinging hard, particularly on fans and in some parts on the board.
exmachina64
Banned
www.pcpartpicker.com
Plug your parts into a list and it will show you the estimated wattage (include your old HDD).
If you expect this build to be your entry into PC gaming, etc., you can find popular GAF recommendations like Fractal Design cases and SeaSonic power supplies on the front page. Then, you can upgrade other parts like your GPU over time. The GPU is probably the first thing you'll want to upgrade (circa 2H 2015). That CPU should have some life left in it.
Edit: You should probably listen to RGM79's advice on the last page.
For delicate close-up work, cotton swabs with a bit of rubbing alcohol, toothpicks, and or tweezers where appropriate. I also use a keyboard brush with plastic bristles.
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