lordfuzzybutt
Member
b - 750W is still overkill for a single card. That should be enough if you aim for SLI though.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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b - 750W is still overkill for a single card. That should be enough if you aim for SLI though.
Cool thanks. That's what I figured but I wanted to double check. Can't wait to see what this card chews through compared to my 580.
Hello? I'd kinda like some input on the earth-shaking choices I have to make tonight. The post is right here, if you want to help me out.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Thanks for the help on picking out my GTX 970. Got her installed over lunch. Booted up Warframe with max everything and ran it like butter. My case fans are louder than this thing, ha.
With regards to OC, while running the game at max, I'm only sitting at 34C. If I don't have a NEED to OC, it's not worth putting the additional stress and temps on my system, right?
With regards to OC, while running the game at max, I'm only sitting at 34C. If I don't have a NEED to OC, it's not worth putting the additional stress and temps on my system, right?
Looks great! (did you miss taking off the clear plastic stickers??
)My philosophy on overclocking a graphics card is that I just don't bother. I buy one with a good factory overclock and that's how I use it day to day. I find keeping afterburner (or any other overclocking program) open all the time annoying and it's challenging to find a stable overclock - the card may behave perfectly on benchmarking tools and most games but once in awhile you'll hit a game where you'll hard crash. Not fun.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Looks great! (did you miss taking off the clear plastic stickers??
My philosophy on overclocking a graphics card is that I just don't bother. I buy one with a good factory overclock and that's how I use it day to day. I find keeping afterburner (or any other overclocking program) open all the time annoying and it's challenging to find a stable overclock - the card may behave perfectly on benchmarking tools and most games but once in awhile you'll hit a game where you'll hard crash. Not fun.
Is it worth OC'ing my CPU? I'm running an i7-4770K, so I could...But as I alluded to, I don't know if it's even worth hassling with the settings. On top of that, if it means my hardware will stay good "longer", I see no major reason to.
Looks great! (did you miss taking off the clear plastic stickers??
My philosophy on overclocking a graphics card is that I just don't bother. I buy one with a good factory overclock and that's how I use it day to day. I find keeping afterburner (or any other overclocking program) open all the time annoying and it's challenging to find a stable overclock - the card may behave perfectly on benchmarking tools and most games but once in awhile you'll hit a game where you'll hard crash. Not fun.
Just use first party software (AMD or Nvidia) to get a conservative overclock and you'll never have to worry about a thing. Most of the factory overclocks are pitiful; no more than 2-3%.
lachesis
Member
I'm not much of gamer, but over the holidays I bought 3 Arkham titles for very little price via Steam...
I enjoyed the first Arkham Asylum, and booted right into Arkham City. Didn't know it would turn into this whole sandbox game, with gigantic map - and I felt like it wasn't moving as smooth as I hope it would like Arkham Asylum, even at recommended setting by Nvidia Experience.
Since I haven't upgraded my GPU for almost 3 yrs - so I thought it might be the time to upgrade my old 660Ti, and just purchased Asus Strix 970, to pair with my 3930k (OC'ed to 4.3ghz) - that I heard it's an extremely quiet yet powerful card.
Only thing is that I heard the non-reference coolers don't work well with Silverstone's vertical configuration. (I have FT02, with Noctua NH-D14 cpu fan). At first, it sounds like a baseless myth, but Silverstone themselves were quoted by others that they recommend blower-type reference cooler for the gpu cards. I'm about to receive the card today and was so excited to install the card tonight - but I'm little concerned about it.
Has anyone had any abnormal temp issues with non-reference cooling card + vertical video card config? I'm hoping the layout of the cooling pipe (combination of horizontal & vertical) would be sufficient... or is it just a cyber-myth that you shouldn't use non-reference cooler cards vertically?
I enjoyed the first Arkham Asylum, and booted right into Arkham City. Didn't know it would turn into this whole sandbox game, with gigantic map - and I felt like it wasn't moving as smooth as I hope it would like Arkham Asylum, even at recommended setting by Nvidia Experience.
Since I haven't upgraded my GPU for almost 3 yrs - so I thought it might be the time to upgrade my old 660Ti, and just purchased Asus Strix 970, to pair with my 3930k (OC'ed to 4.3ghz) - that I heard it's an extremely quiet yet powerful card.
Only thing is that I heard the non-reference coolers don't work well with Silverstone's vertical configuration. (I have FT02, with Noctua NH-D14 cpu fan). At first, it sounds like a baseless myth, but Silverstone themselves were quoted by others that they recommend blower-type reference cooler for the gpu cards. I'm about to receive the card today and was so excited to install the card tonight - but I'm little concerned about it.
Has anyone had any abnormal temp issues with non-reference cooling card + vertical video card config? I'm hoping the layout of the cooling pipe (combination of horizontal & vertical) would be sufficient... or is it just a cyber-myth that you shouldn't use non-reference cooler cards vertically?
I'd definitely overclock the CPU. That is done through the bios and much easier (imo) to get a stable overclock. I've had my i5 2500k @ 4.2 ghz for about 4 years now?
There's no appreciable shortening of lifespan overclocking with good cooling. By the time the small increase in voltage will ruin your CPU, you've probably upgraded twice over.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Fair enough!
Are there any good articles I can look at to get a feel for how to do this? I think mine is sitting at 3.5 GHz at the moment? I'd be happy with 4+.
The Reloader
Member
Which Nvidia software are you referring to?
Google your exact motherboard and CPU overclocking.
Google search your mobo and overclocking guide. Start there. In general you'll just up the voltage slightly and change the multiplier. From there it's testing to make sure it's stable and either upping the voltage a little more or trying a higher multiplier.
You could look into enabling MSAA + SGSSAA for better image quality https://forums.warframe.com/index.p...w-to-enable-msaa-in-warframe-for-nvidia-gpus/ Just make sure launcher doesn't have DX 11 or 10 selected.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Will do. Thanks!
I feel dumb, because that's exactly what I should have thought to do, ha.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Seems like a lot of work, haha. I'm content with it running the way it does. But who knows, I may look into this later...Thanks for the link!
E: Damnit double post, sorry. -_-
Control Panel?
Not bad, I can see you're aiming for low price. Most of the suggestions I'd make would only increase the price, but there's good reasons to spend a little more. Seeing as you're on a budget, consider the Pentium G3258 with a CPU cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. If you're open to overclocking, you can match the performance of much more expensive processors. Some games may not run as well as the i5, though. Going with this cheaper processor means you could spend more on the other parts now and upgrade to a newer processor later if need be, Intel does have the new Broadwell K processors slated for sometime this year.
For the same price as that Asus GTX 750 Ti, you can get the faster clocked EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW (1.19GHz vs 1.07GHz).
The EVGA 600B 600 watt power supply is $30 after rebate. More expensive, but it gives you room to upgrade to most single graphics cards now and in the future if you ever need to grow out of the GTX 750 Ti.
For $37 you could get 4GB G.Skill 1866 MHz RAM, it'll be faster than the 1333MHz RAM you chose that costs only $1 less.
The case you chose will suit your basic needs just fine, but it doesn't come with any USB 3.0 ports. If you want something that's a little more premium and has USB 3.0 ports, I recommend either of these three cases:
Silverstone PS08B for $34
Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 for $35
Cooler Master N200 for $40 - if you go with the Pentium G3258, get this case as it can fit the 212 Evo CPU cooler.
Anyway, this is what I would recommend. All of the parts are a bit higher end and forward looking, I saved costs by going with a cheaper processor that is very competitive when overclocked. If your college work requires a quad core processor, I'd recommend a K series processor like a new i5 4690K or a used i5 4670K which will prove a bit more expensive than that i5 4440, but worth it as it'll last longer before you need another upgrade.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($68.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital RE3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.75 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB FTW ACX Video Card ($124.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $452.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-20 14:11 EST-0500
It's not bad, still decently midrange for gaming. Do you just want to max out graphics? How much money are you budgeting for parts upgrades?
What are you using the computer for? You can definitely cut costs. Here's a similarly performing build with exactly what you need for just under $1200.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($129.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($196.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.97 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($343.99 @ B&H)
Case: BitFenix Neos White/Red ATX Mid Tower Case ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1188.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-20 14:28 EST-0500
If you like, add a second GTX 970 and it'll come under $1600. You don't really need a sound card or optical drive, those things are really optional extras unless you have a set of good headphones you know that onboard sound can't drive or you still need to use DVDs.
Oh nice! i'll take a look and discard what i don't need then. I want it primarily for games i guess. This is great tho. thanks!
Question. Was watching the difference between the i5 and the i7. It seems the difference is quite bigger than i thought. Is there a reason i would want to stick with an i5 for now? I am also considering getting the second GPU. Should i get it right away, or just wait till a price drop to get the second one. I dunn think many games would require the boost atm. Thoughts?
Yeah, that looks fine to run the GTX 750 Ti alongside. As long as you're not overclocking.
Definitely overclock your 2600K if you haven't done it already, it's still a very potent processor for virtually all gaming needs. I'd wait for more news on Oculus requirements and release instead of upgrading soon.
I wouldn't go with that motherboard and power supply. They're not bad, but there are better choices. The Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI is $117 and has much more features for less than $10 more.
Well, 600 watts is enough for most single graphics cards including the flagship GTX 970/980, but 750 watts will be enough if you ever want to do something like GTX 970 SLI. I recommend the EVGA 600B for $45 before rebate, it's a better choice than the Corsair CX budget series and if you decide to send in the mail in rebate, you'll get $15 back so it'll only cost $30.
That EVGA Supernova B1 750 watt power supply isn't bad, hard to beat that price, especially after rebate. I'd say it's up to the EVGA 600B or the Supernova B1, then, depending on how much you want to spend.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
How do you go about pricing an old GPU to sell? I'm listing my EVGA 770 for $175 shipped, but I don't want to rip someone off. At the same time, I don't want to GET ripped off. Is there a good way to "determine" the value of older cards?
Observe what they sell for on Ebay for instance.
In what sense? For gaming it really isn't atm at least maybe it will change with DX12? and the like but right now at most 5fps or so difference between the two for gaming. Only when you do things like heavy video rendering, streaming/multi-tasking, rendering and things that use a lot of threads will the difference really show.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Yeah, I guess. I just never know if eBay is a fair assessment of the market on stuff like this. Especially when you see the same item sell for $200 and $400 within a few days of one another.
E: Nevermind! Gave it to a friend. I owed him some money and he wanted a new GPU. Worked out.
So it would help then with modelling programs and sculpting? like zbrush and 3ds max?
Thanks so much for the help!
I'm trying to avoid mail-in-rebates as in the past they have been more trouble than they are worth.
This makes the Gigabyte MOBO priced at $128 and the EVGA 600W $56 (NCIX has shipping at $11!), so I think I'm going to with the EVGA 750W @$65, and skip on the Gigabyte.
As for a MOBO, I was hoping to spend near $110. What about the ASRock Z97 PRO4 @ $110? Or would the ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer @ $120 be much better?
Thanks again for helping me out!
I know you were set on the first one because it'd be easier and better, but I'd go with the second model because of the better power supply (I'd take Corsair/XFX over FSP Group), slightly better motherboard, and I think the Aerocool case will be higher quality than the In Win.
Well, you already bought it. I'd try it out - temperatures can't be that bad, can they? Are you using only the stock fans included with the case or did you add any extra in there for exhaust/outtake?
Well, if you're concerned only about games, then the i5 4690K will perform every bit as well as the 4790K, you won't be disappointed by any differences you may find. For game framerate, the i7's hyperthreading won't really matter as games can't or aren't coded to take advantage of it.
Anandtech CPU benchmark - the 4690K and 4790K perform very similarly
A couple of gamegpu.ru CPU benchmarks for recent games - FPS/RTS/4X/Action games - the difference between the consumer i5 (4 cores and 4 threads) and i7 (4 cores and 8 threads through hyperthreading) models like the 2500K vs 2600K or 4670K vs 4770K is very little.
Eurogamer Digital Foundry CPU review - same findings as Anandtech, the i7's hyperthreading doesn't really do much for games
If you had other applications in mind like video editing, 3D rendering, workstation computation, etc then getting the i7 is recommended.
I'm looking for SLI and crossfire-enabled motherboards for you, those ASRock models aren't bad but they only support crossfire. They are both really similar and have nearly identical feature set, so I'd recommend the cheaper ASRock Pro4 if you don't want or need SLI.
Superbiz has the MSI Z97S SLI Plus for $111 plus $9 shipping for a total of $120 before rebate. It's about the same as the Gigabyte Z97X-SLI feature-wise but slightly cheaper.
Alright, since it seems that nobody wants to opine on my post above, I'll ask a simple question - has or does anyone here know anything about or use/have used FSP power supplies? Are they reliable? Google says yes, but I'd like some more anocdotal evidence.
Edit: I didn't even see RGM79's post above, wow. Thanks for the advice. Though, you say that the Asus mobo is better than the MSI one? Would you care to expand on that?
Edit: I didn't even see RGM79's post above, wow. Thanks for the advice. Though, you say that the Asus mobo is better than the MSI one? Would you care to expand on that?
Hmmm for thoses am not too sure but from searching it seems the i5 should be fine and in case of 3ds max gpu is more important i believe -
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/core-i5-4670k-4670-4570-4430_6.html
http://forums.autodesk.com/t5/autocad-2013-2014-2015/core-i7-or-i5-for-autocad-2015/td-p/5215341
Where the i7 comes into play -
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8227/devils-canyon-review-intel-core-i7-4790k-and-i5-4690k/3
Well, I said above that I think the ADMI PC is better. It's hard to pass judgement on FSP Group power supplies without know the exact model or being able to find reviews for it. It's probably just me, but I don't have any experience with FSP Group power supplies, so I prefer to stick with and recommend what I know, which is Corsair and XFX.
Looking at this overview of the entire FSP Group line of power supplies, it doesn't exactly inspire confidence. Yes, the higher end Aurum line is pretty good, but everything else ranges from awful to average. If you're getting an Aurum model then that's fine, but somehow I doubt you are.
Looking at Jonny Guru reviews, their Aurum line is pretty good, Hexa and Raider line are just average, and the Everest line is low end or crap.
Alright, that's enough for me. The ADMI it is.
Thanks to everyone in this thread, especially RGM79 (is that a Gundam reference?), for all the help and advice!
Yep, returning it since I can't stand it. Going for an IPS now and have ordered a U2414H. Should arrive tomorrow and then I can decide what I like more more definitively. Going to return the XL2411Z either way.
Sorry about responding so late for you. When I last talked to you it was the middle of the night for me and I just woke up a short while ago and had to reply to a backlog of posts of people asking questions from a few hours ago. Rule of thumb for me is that I answer as much as I can, but I reply in order, from oldest to newest. You're welcome to PM me with questions like others here have if you want an answer sooner or don't want me to miss it.Alright, that's enough for me. The ADMI it is.I wonder if they're still open...Nope, it's a quarter to 9 at night (!)...I'll call them in the morning with the good news and hope they still have that build available.
Thanks to everyone in this thread, especially RGM79 (is that a Gundam reference?), for all the help and advice!
Yep, it's a Gundam reference.
Edit: Looking around, I can tell you that Corsair generally have better scoring power supplies across their entire PSU product line, even in the midrange and budget lines. XFX is also very good given that their entire line is manufactured by Seasonic, another great name for power supplies. Aerocool is not quite as good nor do they have that many reviews listed, but at least they don't seem as negative as FSP's worse offerings. A good chunk of their product line is manufactured by CWT (Channel Well Technology), which is a decent manufacturer.
If you have a choice when you talk to ADMI, ask for XFX or Corsair. Better yet if you can get them to tell you the model number to check some reviews.
Nyteshade517
Member
Thank you for the help
Thanks! I don't plan on having multiple GPUs, so I went with the Pro4. Thanks for all the help!
UpDownLeftRight
Banned
Thanks man, yeah still trying to hold off just generally building up funds and sizing up my needs as I go along. I haven't actually overclocked it yet since I don't really know how to go about it. I get the feeling I have the room though since it's running hardly above room temperature and I've got a 750w power supply and only a single card. I should probably look into it I've just always been scared I may mess it up. Same case with my GPU, has a ton of overhead room being an MSI 580 LE but not something I'm used to dabbling with. I take it DDR3 based systems are still staying relevant for a while then too?
UpDownLeftRight
Banned
CCleaner, Piriform Defraggler and SSD Life if you have an SSD. CoreTemp for processor temps and MSi Afterburner for a whole bunch of GPU tools. CPU-Z and CPUID Hardware Monitor to keep a check on your system from time to time. Oh and of course any Anti-virus. Could go further and add MalwareBytes and Norton Power Eraser in case you get anything nasty on there that doesn't want to go away.
Oh by the way hardware monitoring tools often pick up false results on SSD's so don't worry about that. Mine only picks up one of my SSD's and it thinks it's running at 129c but it's not even hot to touch.
Just what I was looking for, thanks for the response!
UpDownLeftRight
Banned
No problem, by the way remember not to defrag an SSD, so you only need Defraggler if you have any HDD's in your system. SSD's sort themselves so you shouldn't ever need to worry about it, plus I've been told before that it can actually damage an SSD, but I can't say whether or not this is actually true as I accidentally defragged one of mine before and I got away with it.
Is it just me or is this a pretty good deal?
I mean it's an i7-4790k, GTX 970 with a 1TB HDD and 120gb SSD. The 8 gigs of RAM isn't insane but for $1300 total, it seems fair (at least when comparing the OP's component prices to what's in this machine) I've been thinking about building a PC but I have no idea what I'm doing so prebuilt seems like the way to go for me.
I mean it's an i7-4790k, GTX 970 with a 1TB HDD and 120gb SSD. The 8 gigs of RAM isn't insane but for $1300 total, it seems fair (at least when comparing the OP's component prices to what's in this machine) I've been thinking about building a PC but I have no idea what I'm doing so prebuilt seems like the way to go for me.
lachesis
Member
I had not felt any need to add any extra fans to the case because FT02 is a monster air-mover to begin with...
Well, I just received Strix 970, and this thing is humongous! Much taller than I was expecting too. Hope it will fit in the case, because of the large bottom fans of the FT02, the card length sometimes is an issue.
I just googled myself a bit about the issue, and it seems Strix 970's pipe layout is combination of vertical & horizontal, so hopefully it will be almost an non-issue. If temps come out good w/ some testing... I'll try my very first gpu OC.
Thanks for your input!
dancrane212
Member
Here's a comprehensive thread filled with guides, tips, and user experiences overclocking the 2600K and related. As long as you stick to the settings mentioned by other users, you'll be fine. It's hard to damage a processor due to thermal protection usually shutting down the computer before any damage happens.
They have a similar overclocking help+guide thread for the GTX 580. Some details are out of date - just install the latest drivers and versions of programs that they refer to. One thing you may want to avoid is BIOS modding - that's a more technical and intermediate method of getting more performance out of the GTX 580 but can result in a dead or malfunctioning graphics card. If you don't mind tweaking with your card because it's already out of warranty and you were going to just get a replacement graphics card without reusing the GTX 580, then go ahead with BIOS modding.
DDR3 is still relevant right now, but DDR4 is already available so DDR3 shouldn't be around for too much longer, probably no more than a year or two. At this point, DDR3 will only get more expensive and harder to find as production shifts over to DDR4, but for now DDR3 is still plentiful and DDR4 is expensive and only for high end X99 motherboard platform.
It's not so much that it damages the SSD, it's just that defragging is unnecessary because all sections of the SSD can be access more or less equally as fast, and defragging just increases weardown. Not that SSD wear is an issue any more, consumer SSDs can already withstand more than a practical lifetime of read/write.
Well, the prices in the OP aren't updated very often. I put together a comparable build list and it's about $200-300 less.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($62.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.97 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($343.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower Classic 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1082.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-20 19:47 EST-0500
The other thing about iBUYPOWER is that they don't tell you what power supply you're getting. Which is kind of a big no. Not saying you should spend a lot, just make sure you're getting a decent power supply.
I will never purchase another crucial part again. My 256gb m4 which is stil under warranty completely died. It won't show up at all in bios and I tried it in another computer and no go. I contacted crucial to begin a RMA,sent them my newegg invoice same day, and it has been two weeks and they are still dragging it on.
So far their excuses have been:
1) they are out of m4s and will have to replace it with a m500 240gb (I'm losing space on this)
2) my serial number is incorrect. I made sure I typed it in correctly. They have now asked for a picture of the drive.
3) the m500 is now out of stock and they are offering "fair market credit" which to me means, I'll get screwed.
I originally contacted them January 2nd. It has been 18 days and I still don't have aRMA number and a paperweight sitting on my desk.
So far their excuses have been:
1) they are out of m4s and will have to replace it with a m500 240gb (I'm losing space on this)
2) my serial number is incorrect. I made sure I typed it in correctly. They have now asked for a picture of the drive.
3) the m500 is now out of stock and they are offering "fair market credit" which to me means, I'll get screwed.
I originally contacted them January 2nd. It has been 18 days and I still don't have aRMA number and a paperweight sitting on my desk.
Garou
Member
Did you have the latest firmware on it?
I updated the firmware on the drive about a month ago when I started getting random problems of it not showing up in the bios. It was fine for a while but now it seems like it's completely dead.
Garou
Member
I once had a similar problem with the m4 not being recognized, I solved it with this:
Set your boot-mode from UEFI/ACPI to IDE-compatibility-mode, then it should be recognized again. Then revert firmware to 0000f with the manual update-file. Then set your bootmode back to what it was.
Later firmwares were picky with newer bootmodes on some motherboards.
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Looks like my GTX 570 finally went kaput. Went back to Shogun 2 for a bit, and enabled my usual overclock profile in Afterburner which has worked fine for years. Had a hard reboot while playing in game for a couple minutes. Tried again and it rebooted on the main menu. Ended up booting into Windows with no display active.
Guess I have my excuse to jump to a 970. Time to head to Fry's.
Guess I have my excuse to jump to a 970. Time to head to Fry's.
- Status