Fantastic, a thousand thankyous, it shall be done. I have a spare nocturna cpu cooler thing laying around and didn't install it in this build (4 years ago now!!), when I crack her open for the 970 swap I'll replace the stock cpu cooler and see if I can get over 4.2ghz. Thanks again!
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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Fantastic, a thousand thankyous, it shall be done. I have a spare nocturna cpu cooler thing laying around and didn't install it in this build (4 years ago now!!), when I crack her open for the 970 swap I'll replace the stock cpu cooler and see if I can get over 4.2ghz. Thanks again!
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
KevMan1815
Member
So I ordered all the pieces to build my first "from scratch" PC.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 with Window Black Pearl Silent ATX Mid Tower Case
Graphics:ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC20C-4GD5 Graphics Cards STRIX-GTX970-DC20C-4GD5
Processor:Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K
Motherboard:MSI Z97S SLI Plus LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
PSU:CORSAIR CXM series CX750M 750W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
RAM:G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GXM
SSD:Crucial MX100 512GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT512MX100SSD1
Cooler:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan
A combination of research, talking to my personal friends, reading things posted here and advice from RGM79's response to a post I made. I appreciate the help and am excited to build this weekend!
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 with Window Black Pearl Silent ATX Mid Tower Case
Graphics:ASUS STRIX-GTX970-DC20C-4GD5 Graphics Cards STRIX-GTX970-DC20C-4GD5
Processor:Intel Core i5-4690K Processor 3.5 GHz LGA 1150 BX80646I54690K
Motherboard:MSI Z97S SLI Plus LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
PSU:CORSAIR CXM series CX750M 750W ATX12V v2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply New 4th Gen CPU Certified Haswell Ready
RAM:G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GXM
SSD:Crucial MX100 512GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT512MX100SSD1
Cooler:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan
A combination of research, talking to my personal friends, reading things posted here and advice from RGM79's response to a post I made. I appreciate the help and am excited to build this weekend!
Seems like you will be looking for 3440x1440 monitors.
http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/monitor/#a=21009&r=344001440
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ion=3440 1440&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=30
Enjoy your new PC! It's a solid list of parts. Come ask us if you have an questions during the build.
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Picked up the 4 GB ASUS model. Now to try all my old games again to see the difference, lol.
Witcher 2 Ultra, here I come!
jfoul
Member
Cross post.
Heads up for anybody looking to buy from Newegg soon. The $25 Visa Checkout deal stacks with the $25 AMEX credit.
Visa checkout: $25 Off Your $200+ Purchase with code: VCOJAN25
Heads up for anybody looking to buy from Newegg soon. The $25 Visa Checkout deal stacks with the $25 AMEX credit.
Visa checkout: $25 Off Your $200+ Purchase with code: VCOJAN25
- Offer valid through 1/26/15
- "Get a one-time $25 statement credit by using your enrolled Card to spend a total of $200 or more online at www.Newegg.com by 2/28/2015."
opticalmace
Member
Why isn't it latching? No tension on the spring clip? Connector doesn't reach far enough into the socket? Kind of need to know why...
Is the socket broken or poorly molded? Pictures would help.
i don't know if this is the right place but i really need help gaf.
so this problem has been intermittent for about half a year. and i'm pulling what's left of my hair out.
my computer hard locks and crashes when on the browser, and i believe a couple of times on the desktop. but never when i'm in a game for some reason.
a couple of weeks ago i had to do a clean install of windows, and since then i hadn't had a problem, but about 40mins ago it happened again.
i've tried looking at the crashdump file, but i'm not very good a reading them.
i've got no one to help me. and i was wondering if you of you fine people would look at the dump file and tell what's wrong
https://mega.co.nz/#!TdRxFK4Y!sqNfUc-N8Qsio0RQpjRth-X5DwcWaKZBa3aeGtBTgmM
thanks in advanced to anyone who looks at it, even if you don't know what's wrong. i appreciate the help.
so this problem has been intermittent for about half a year. and i'm pulling what's left of my hair out.
my computer hard locks and crashes when on the browser, and i believe a couple of times on the desktop. but never when i'm in a game for some reason.
a couple of weeks ago i had to do a clean install of windows, and since then i hadn't had a problem, but about 40mins ago it happened again.
i've tried looking at the crashdump file, but i'm not very good a reading them.
i've got no one to help me. and i was wondering if you of you fine people would look at the dump file and tell what's wrong
https://mega.co.nz/#!TdRxFK4Y!sqNfUc-N8Qsio0RQpjRth-X5DwcWaKZBa3aeGtBTgmM
thanks in advanced to anyone who looks at it, even if you don't know what's wrong. i appreciate the help.
There's not much information to go on. All that the minidump says is that something went wrong with ntoskrnl.exe and that it caused the system to crash.
Are you using any problematic hardware/software that you also used with the old Windows installation? Any kind of parallel between crashes? Any issues shown in device manager? From a quick search, it seems to possibly be a hardware related issue..
There's not much information to go on. All that the minidump says is that something went wrong with ntoskrnl.exe and that it caused the system to crash.
Are you using any problematic hardware/software that you also used with the old Windows installation? Any kind of parallel between crashes? Any issues shown in device manager? From a quick search, it seems to possibly be a hardware related issue..
thanks for looking.
i'm using all the same hardware
from what i could make out in the older dump files i think it said ntoskrml.exe too if remember.
i really hope it isn't a hardware problem.
thanks again for your help though
sorry i should of mentioned my specs. i was just so upset i wasn't thinking straight.
CPU: I7 4770K
motherboad: gigabyte sniper M5
RAM: corsair platinum @1866mhz
GPU: ASUS GTX TITAN.
soundcard: ASUS XNOAR D2X
SSD (OS): corsair neutron 120gb
HDD ( main ) samsung 3TB 7200rpm
opticalmace
Member
sorry sorry. i should of said in the first post i made.
i did an 8 hour memtest and it came back fine.
i could run it again though.
hmmmmm, that's odd.
i have got the crash through different nivdia drivers as i've updated through the months though.
i down to try though. what should i do. ?
EDIT: i just want to say thanks again to everyone who's already posted trying to help. <3
lordfuzzybutt
Member
- Use DDU to completely wipe your current driver (do it in safemode mode)
- Run CCleaner, remove everything related to nvidia registry. (cleaning registry sometimes is not good but in this case I say go for it)
- Download newest Nvidia driver again in case the last one was corrupted, install it in clean mode.
thanks. i'll try it.
You can, but most people don't. You have to make sure whichever cooler you're using makes good contact (add spacers equal to the thickness of the heat spreader) and applying equal pressure while mounting matters even more now.
After looking around to confirm some things, apparently if you're feeling adventurous and don't mind running without the lid, you can do that, but with increased risk of damage and maybe shortened life if not done properly. Be mindful of the extra space from de-lidding it and have something to fill in the gap. MSI apparently makes a spacer just for something like that for their motherboards.
It's much safer to have the lid, I think. You can replace the TIM paste under the lid and put the lid back on.
That stuff is somewhat out of my league, though. I don't think I'd go that far to shave of a couple of degrees, I'd rather keep it as is and invest in a better heatsink rather than try de-lidding. Better resale value, too.
Dries
Member
Hey guys, I'm wondering whether to set my PhysX to be handled by my CPU (an OC'ed 2500K 4.4Ghz) or my GPU (GTX 980).
My 980 is always fully loaded in games (as seen in MSI Afterburder) cause I DSR the shit out of every game. My CPU cores are usually around a usage of 40-50% during gaming.
It would seem to me that my CPU still has some load to spare, so I should let that handle my PhysX. Am I thinking right?
My 980 is always fully loaded in games (as seen in MSI Afterburder) cause I DSR the shit out of every game. My CPU cores are usually around a usage of 40-50% during gaming.
It would seem to me that my CPU still has some load to spare, so I should let that handle my PhysX. Am I thinking right?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
No because even with its full capacity the CPU is not gonna run Physx well enough. It will always be better to run it with your GPU, unless it's broken like it was in Metro game.
OminoMichelin
Member
What do you guys think of these coolers? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWQZNXEKkaU It looks really cool (pun unintended), I wonder when/if they will land in consumer markets.
Beyond DDR4: The differences between Wide I/O, HBM, and Hybrid Memory Cube
Good 2 page article worth reading.
Good 2 page article worth reading.
Dries
Member
That interesting that you bring up the Metro comment. This is the reason I posted my problem in the first place. I keep getting driver crashes during Metro 2033 Redux. Something like "Nvidia Windows Kernel mode driver 347.09 has stopped responding, but has been succesfully recovered". One of the solutions people gave it set your PhysX to be fed by the CPU. So I guess it's a common thing and for Metro I should set PhysX to be CPU fed, but normally it should always be GPU fed?
i have all the c states already disabled. but i don't believe you can change the speedstep in my MB's bios. or if you can i can't find it.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Pretty much
CPU: I7 4770K OC'd 4.1mhz @1.150v
motherboad: gigabyte sniper M5
RAM: corsair platinum @1866mhz
GPU: ASUS GTX TITAN.
soundcard: ASUS XNOAR D2X
OS: windows 7 home premium 64bit
SSD (OS): corsair neutron 120gb
HDD ( main ) samsung 3TB 7200rpm
I use Cyberlink PowerDVD 10 and pretty happy with it.
k. i'll try that when i wake up later. thanks.
Don't worry, I made sure to ask specifically for the Corsair PSU when I bought it just now, and they obliged!
It's coming next Wednesday, all going well (it being a custom build and all, needs further testing and waiting for suppliers, etc.) I can't wait!Again, thanks for all the helpful advice. GAF is awesome sometimes.
It's possible to set up VLC for blu-ray playback, although I can't personally vouch for how well this setup works.
No idea what the issue is, the connector just never pushes down all the way allowing the clasp to latch.
So I dug my old PSU out of the closet and it latches right away, but of course the motherboard won't power on. More troubleshooting tonight followed by quite a few RMAs if I had to guess :\
So I built my PC last night, went to turn it on and was getting no signal to my monitor. I opened it back up and fiddled with it a bit - unplugged and replugged some cables, and reset the ram, gpu and cpu. I turned it back on and voila, I was getting picture to the monitor, so I set up windows and then realized I forgot to install the wifi, so I opened it back up and installed that then turned it back on and I was no longer getting signal to the monitor.
What's going on here?
What's going on here?
What parts are you upgrading from? If you have a i5 2500K or newer equivalent, you don't need to upgrade, as overclocking will put you in the same level of performance as current generation i5 processors. Unless you're coming from a lower end non-overclocking Pentium or i3/i5. Overall, expect to spend around about $300-350 for all new CPU/motherboard/heatsink.
The sweet spot for a gaming/performance oriented processor is the i5 4690K which is $220~240 regular, $199 if you can pick up from a Microcenter location.
Pair that with a decent motherboard - If you don't have plans for SLI, then I'd go with the ASRock Z97 Pro4 which is $96 after $15 rebate. If you do want the option for SLI or something with a little more features, either the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI or MSI Z97S SLI Plus will be a good choice, both are currently $111 after rebate and are about the same in terms of features. More expensive motherboards can be more capable, but these three will do for most people.
Also, do you already have a decent CPU cooler? If not, I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($29). Cheap, easily better than the stock Intel cooler that can get hot and loud very quickly, and will handle moderate overclocking (4.5GHz or so).
So it runs with lights on and fans spinning, but you get no picture? Have you checked if there are any status LEDs and what they mean according to the motherboard manual? I'd try reseating the RAM, GPU, wifi card and the cables, then. Might be a loose connection somewhere. Sort of doubt it's the CPU because once it's locked in place and has a heatsink on top, it's not gonna slip out of place.
I currently have a 2009 iMac. Looking to upgrade this year, and I want to give the PC option a fair investigation. My computer will mainly be used for art and music, and occasionally gaming.
Screen is probably the most important factor. I can get the iMac I want for around $2700. Yes, with that money I could buy a more powerful PC, but it's a moot point since the iMac will already overcompensate for what I'll be doing (of course extra power wouldn't hurt either). What is really appealing is the screen at 5K. I'm wondering if anyone in this thread has experience with the 5K iMac screen and can recommend an alternative monitor at a competitive price. Accurate and vivid color is the most important thing - this is for art first, gaming second.
I know Dell has some that are probably just as good if not better, but those cost almost as much as the iMac itself. Are there any options around $1k or so that compete? That would leave me over $1.5k to build the PC, which presumably would easily outdo the Broadwell i7 4.0<ghz iMac.
For the record I did read the part in the OP about monitors, but wanted to check on this comparison specifically.
Screen is probably the most important factor. I can get the iMac I want for around $2700. Yes, with that money I could buy a more powerful PC, but it's a moot point since the iMac will already overcompensate for what I'll be doing (of course extra power wouldn't hurt either). What is really appealing is the screen at 5K. I'm wondering if anyone in this thread has experience with the 5K iMac screen and can recommend an alternative monitor at a competitive price. Accurate and vivid color is the most important thing - this is for art first, gaming second.
I know Dell has some that are probably just as good if not better, but those cost almost as much as the iMac itself. Are there any options around $1k or so that compete? That would leave me over $1.5k to build the PC, which presumably would easily outdo the Broadwell i7 4.0<ghz iMac.
For the record I did read the part in the OP about monitors, but wanted to check on this comparison specifically.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
I have discovered something stupid and amazing...
G.Skill's pretty good, I have no issues with them and would recommend them to others. They offer a limited lifetime warranty for their memory.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
I've used them before, and have no complaints.
Chance Hale
Member
Is there any idea of how far away the next Nvidia line is? Want to get a 4K or curved screen to go along with my RoG Swift but I'll have to pick up a second 780Ti to use it concurrently. When is HDMI going to be up to snuff?
Also, any good deals on ram at the moment? Only have a single 8 GB stick and I'm starting to feel a light strain at times. Have no need for 32 but at least one or two more sticks.
Also, any good deals on ram at the moment? Only have a single 8 GB stick and I'm starting to feel a light strain at times. Have no need for 32 but at least one or two more sticks.
Nvidia released their flagship GTX 980 a couple of months ago. There's been talk of the new "GTX Titan X" but that's probably not in your budget.
If 16GB is good enough, then just get another single 8GB stick. What model is your current RAM? It's best to know speed and timings to get matching RAM.
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