"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I didn't change the case because it depends on the aesthetic preference of each user.
But your ram choice is as expensive as mine and is slower, I see no reason to pick this.
A 120 GBs SSD is rather small, he can fit the OS and probably one or two games in there and it will only decrease load time. On the other hand, he will need a lot of space for visual editing works. Why not buy a big one now instead of having to put it in later?
I am clueless about monitor though, so it's good that you picked a better one.
If your budget allows and you really want an SSD, I suggest buy this one, http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct256mx100ssd1
more expensive but i think 120 GB is rather restricted.
SmashN'Grab
Member
Just put together my new PC yesterday, and (typically) am having issues already.
No.1 - as my new PC doesn't have a dvd drive, I had created a backup media of the installation files on my old laptop, and put it on a USB. Little did I know, that it would only give me the 32-bit version of windows, as my laptop has 32-bit windows 7 on it. I have spoken with MS support, who have told me that there's no way to create a 64-bit version of the installation media, unless the OS that I use to create it on is also 64-bit itself.
This is unbelieveable, and I seem to have no options to fix this as I don't know anyone else who runs a 64-bit version of windows IRL. I seem to be fucked here, and I'm pretty disappointed.
No.2 - I have three hard drives (a 500gb SSD, a 3TB HDD and a 4TB HDD). The 3TB HDD sometimes shows up in the BIOS as being connected, other times it's not there. I've checked the cables, swapped them around, and tried all combos - it's still flaky.
Sometimes it's there, sometimes it isn't. It also doesn't show up in Windows - except in "Other Devices", where it's got a little question mark thingy next to it (like Windows doesn't even know what it is, doesn't even recognise it as a hard drive).
Anyone got an ideas on either of these issues? I'd really appreciate some guidance. This is all very frustrating, especially having spent all this money.
No.1 - as my new PC doesn't have a dvd drive, I had created a backup media of the installation files on my old laptop, and put it on a USB. Little did I know, that it would only give me the 32-bit version of windows, as my laptop has 32-bit windows 7 on it. I have spoken with MS support, who have told me that there's no way to create a 64-bit version of the installation media, unless the OS that I use to create it on is also 64-bit itself.
This is unbelieveable, and I seem to have no options to fix this as I don't know anyone else who runs a 64-bit version of windows IRL. I seem to be fucked here, and I'm pretty disappointed.
No.2 - I have three hard drives (a 500gb SSD, a 3TB HDD and a 4TB HDD). The 3TB HDD sometimes shows up in the BIOS as being connected, other times it's not there. I've checked the cables, swapped them around, and tried all combos - it's still flaky.
Sometimes it's there, sometimes it isn't. It also doesn't show up in Windows - except in "Other Devices", where it's got a little question mark thingy next to it (like Windows doesn't even know what it is, doesn't even recognise it as a hard drive).
Anyone got an ideas on either of these issues? I'd really appreciate some guidance. This is all very frustrating, especially having spent all this money.
First off, can you tell us your system specs?
1. What method are you using to make the Windows installer? If you're using the official Microsoft tool, it should not limit you to a certain version whether the host OS is running 32 or 64 bit. The Windows 8/8.1 USB installer creator should not care whether you're running 32 or 64 bit, all it asks for is the license key and downloads the ISO for the version of Windows you bought, not one to match the bit version on the PC that the installer creator is running on.
2. Sounds like a dying hard drive? Have you tried connecting that drive in a port with a cable that you know are both working? If you've already tried different ports and cables in every conceivable combination that work for the other hard drives, and the only consistent factor is that the 3TB hard drive fails to work, then it sounds like there's a problem with that drive. Any chance you can try plugging it into another PC?
Do you have a friends pc you can use to get put the correct ISO on? Do you have an extra cd drive laying around? I mean you don't have to hook it in to your case, just a power and sata cable.
For your second question, had the same exact problem yesterday. Goto diskmanagement and see if all the drives are there. My ssd and hd always seem to clash with each other. I'm sure someone else hear can chime in a lot more than me.
I'm kinda pissed. My new modular power supply sounds like an Xbox 360 with a coil whine. And of course this is after I spent 1 hr doing an amazing cable management job..Can anyone recommend a good quiet psu around 120$
I did this yesterday through the windows usb installer. It never asked me for a key nor gave me any option for 32/64. But I downloaded the windows 10 tech preview ISO so maybe that's why?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
This is a different tool, this tool only requires you to have the key.
In your case you already have the ISO, the tool you used will only make a bootable usb based on the ISO.
US? What wattage do you need? What power supply do you currently have? EVGA has some high end models with a low noise mode when running at low load/temperature, like the Supernova G2, GS, etc.
EVGA Supernova G2 850 watt gold rated fully modular for $115 plus shipping after $25 rebate
EVGA Supernova GS 850 watt gold rated fully modular for $122 after $25 rebate
Both are excellent, I believe the GS is the newer one, though.
The Windows 10 install should still ask for an ISO, the last time I checked it did, although that was when it first came out, no idea if it changed.
Here you go, lots of information here.
Rgm, on my phone so I don't wanna quote your whole post. I only have a gtx 980 so anything around 750 watts is more than enough since I won't be doing sli. I just put in my rma for the corsair I just installed. Thinking about heading to microcenter either today or tomorrow. I'm done with corsair after this one. And I used to like them. How are the evga' s? I stand by their gpu's so maybe it's time to try their psu? I'm still sick to my stomach that after all my beautiful wiring, I'm gonna have to redo it.
It absolutely sucks, and is the chief reason I had to buy a brand new DVD of Windows 8.1, costing me a lot more money than I ever wanted it to. You cannot create a 64-bit ISO from a 32-bit machine to my knowledge, as I had a 32-bit installation on a laptop. I said ages ago in this thread that it should be in the OP.
I had the same problem, didn't know anyone with a 64-bit OS to make me an ISO. Unless there's a method I don't know of, you're gonna have to find someone with a 64-bit OS, find some hack around it, or buy an optical drive and a DVD.
watershoppe
Neo Member
Hey all. Here are the components that I've been thinking about getting for my new build. I'm keeping my options open in terms of overclocking, although I'm not a fanatic. I won't be doing heavy duty video editing or streaming. I'm specifically looking to get a monitor with IPS. I prefer Intel and Nvidia. Also, I live in Scandivania (in terms of prices and availability of the parts).
I would really appreciate some feedback and comments. I'm especially unsure of whether or not the motherboard, GPU and monitor are sensible choices.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII RANGER ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Monitor: Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse
Thank you for your time.
I would really appreciate some feedback and comments. I'm especially unsure of whether or not the motherboard, GPU and monitor are sensible choices.
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII RANGER ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair RM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Monitor: Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse
Thank you for your time.
Looks good, couple of things to consider:
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB HDD should be cheaper than the Black, see if you can find that.
If you can find a Cooler Master V550 for about the same price as the Corsair RM, switch it. The Corsair RMs are fine, but the Cooler Master is generally regarded more highly.
Have you thought about going with mATX instead of ATX? You might be able to save a little bit of money on the motherboard+case.
Azzurri
Member
So I wake up this morning to ''Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key''
I don't know why it would do this since It never has and my PC is like a month old. I went into the bios to check the boot order, but only saw the 3tb hdd, and not my SSD. So I then plugged in my USB DvD drive and went back into the boot drive order, and all 3 were there and I clicked on my SSD and Boom loaded fine.
Reset it to see if it would screw up the boot order and do the same thing, but it ran perfectly fine when I did?
I don't know why it would do this since It never has and my PC is like a month old. I went into the bios to check the boot order, but only saw the 3tb hdd, and not my SSD. So I then plugged in my USB DvD drive and went back into the boot drive order, and all 3 were there and I clicked on my SSD and Boom loaded fine.
Reset it to see if it would screw up the boot order and do the same thing, but it ran perfectly fine when I did?
Somehow the drive wasn't detected on bootup. I had it happen once in a blue moon. I would just go into the bios, boot order and disable / remove every storage device except the booting one.
Azzurri
Member
Thanks, I'll do it after work.
Makoto-Yuki
Banned
alright so i currently have windows 8.1 64-bit OEM edition on my 1TB HDD.
not right now but at some point soon i want to buy a 256GB ssd to install as my boot drive with the 1TB HDD as just a storage drive. honestly don't know why i didn't bother getting an SSD first and HDD later but anyway....
is it as simple as:
1. disconnect HDD
2. connect SSD
3. boot into windows 8.1 64bit OEM DVD
4. install windows 8.1 64bit OEM onto SSD
5. shut down
6. reconnect HDD
7. go into windows and format HDD
current boot order is DVD (SATA 0) > HDD (SATA 1). but with the SSD/HDD both connected it will be DVD (0) > SSD (1) > HDD (2). will i have any issues if the OS is installed on both SSD/HDD? i think i read something that you can only install OEM versions on 1 computer at a time or is the OS linked to the motherboard? so if i were to try installing it on another computer (obviously with a different motherboard) that it won't work?
thanks!
not right now but at some point soon i want to buy a 256GB ssd to install as my boot drive with the 1TB HDD as just a storage drive. honestly don't know why i didn't bother getting an SSD first and HDD later but anyway....
is it as simple as:
1. disconnect HDD
2. connect SSD
3. boot into windows 8.1 64bit OEM DVD
4. install windows 8.1 64bit OEM onto SSD
5. shut down
6. reconnect HDD
7. go into windows and format HDD
current boot order is DVD (SATA 0) > HDD (SATA 1). but with the SSD/HDD both connected it will be DVD (0) > SSD (1) > HDD (2). will i have any issues if the OS is installed on both SSD/HDD? i think i read something that you can only install OEM versions on 1 computer at a time or is the OS linked to the motherboard? so if i were to try installing it on another computer (obviously with a different motherboard) that it won't work?
thanks!
watershoppe
Neo Member
Okay, thanks! I haven't thought about mATX. If it's not a significant amount of money, I don't mind spending it... I quite like the NZXT case.
Thats method will work fine. You should be able to use the OEM key on the SSD installation.
If not it may prompt you to call MS, tell them the HDD failed and you bought an SSD if it puts you through to a human.
I am so relieved.
The upgrade from my i3-3220 to an i5-3570K was a huge success. I wasn't sure I would get much of an fps bump, but I saw big improvements in all the games I want to play. I think I'm even going to hold off overclocking it for now because the performance is so solid.
For the curious, here are my performance gains after the upgrade (all tests run using the same settings pre-i5 and post-i5):
Another odd anecdotal thing... I almost always play games with Vsync on. I have it off for benchmarking, obviously, and I am noticing way less screen tearing after upgrading the CPU. I have no idea why that would be.
Thanks for your help in making this happen, everyone! Now I don't have to rush to get a second card for SLI...
What GPU? Resolution?
You could swap the Seagate for the Toshiba ACA model which is a rebadged Hitachi drive. Much better reliability.
And in my opinion GTX 970 > 16GB ram, just get 8Gb.
YuriLowell
Member
So whats the best program for uninstalling video drivers before installing a new card?
Display Driver Uninstaller.
YuriLowell
Member
Thanks.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£236.34 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£74.10 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£94.28 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£52.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£98.42 @ Misco UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.97 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked Video Card
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case (£114.95 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£10.19 @ Aria PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£74.09 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: BenQ GL2450HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (£112.97 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: BenQ GL2450HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (£112.97 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M95 Wired Laser Mouse (£88.06 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1192.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-10 14:27 GMT+0000
Just looking for a bit of advise in regards to my current build. The build above was done about a year ago. I have been thinking of replacing my 780 with a 980 next month and I would just like to know if this would be something worth while doing?
Now if I don't replace my 780 this year I was just going to sell this computer off next year as I think I could get a not too bad amount for this and add what ever I need to it to build a whole new computer.
What do you guys on GAF think I should do?
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£236.34 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£74.10 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£94.28 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£52.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£98.42 @ Misco UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£42.97 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked Video Card
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case (£114.95 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£10.19 @ Aria PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£74.09 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: BenQ GL2450HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (£112.97 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: BenQ GL2450HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor (£112.97 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M95 Wired Laser Mouse (£88.06 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1192.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-10 14:27 GMT+0000
Just looking for a bit of advise in regards to my current build. The build above was done about a year ago. I have been thinking of replacing my 780 with a 980 next month and I would just like to know if this would be something worth while doing?
Now if I don't replace my 780 this year I was just going to sell this computer off next year as I think I could get a not too bad amount for this and add what ever I need to it to build a whole new computer.
What do you guys on GAF think I should do?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I think upgrading to a 980 is not worth it. It is a very good build that will last you well until the next batch of cards come.
Sell it then and build a new build later.
Hey folks,
I was playing around in unreal editor last night and suddenly after 3 year of flawless performance, my card started showing signs of dying. Flickering, the weird lines, red blue and green dots, etc. It runs perfectly fine in windows and plays HD videos fine, but as soon as I load up a game it goes haywire. Weird thing is I got a message saying the video driver had failed after I got it back up and running. Could this be a software issue somehow, or is my card definitely dying? It's an asus 6870 directCU 1gb. I hope my warranty covers it, but I bought it back in 2011...
If It IS indeed dying, it's time for a new card. Any recommendations for cards in the $400 CAD range? I'm not too impressed with asus right now considering my sapphire x1950pro is still chugging away after 8 years.
I was playing around in unreal editor last night and suddenly after 3 year of flawless performance, my card started showing signs of dying. Flickering, the weird lines, red blue and green dots, etc. It runs perfectly fine in windows and plays HD videos fine, but as soon as I load up a game it goes haywire. Weird thing is I got a message saying the video driver had failed after I got it back up and running. Could this be a software issue somehow, or is my card definitely dying? It's an asus 6870 directCU 1gb. I hope my warranty covers it, but I bought it back in 2011...
If It IS indeed dying, it's time for a new card. Any recommendations for cards in the $400 CAD range? I'm not too impressed with asus right now considering my sapphire x1950pro is still chugging away after 8 years.
No reason to sell this rig in a year. Just upgrade to GTX 1xxx series when it arrives.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
I never thought of that, I did notice it was hotter than usual in my case last night. It idles at pretty much 50-60... and goes upto 80 I THINK on load. Which doesn't seem right at all, unless i'm wrong. I haven't overcloked or done anything else to the card. I'll give the ddu a try when I get home, don't want to risk it remotely. Case and card is essentially dustless, looks brand new still. It's coupled with an i72600k and a few case fans that don't run at 100%.
No need to upgrade anything tbh. Overclock that CPU if you haven't already. Wait until the next round of GPUs and decide then. I wouldn't really sell the rest of the PC, that's a great build.
Femmeworth
Banned
Just about every game I've played so far with my new PC has had the occasional visual glitch. Is that the norm? A little paranoid. The GPU temp has been fine from what I can tell. The only one that I've found to be consistently reproducible so far is in the Sleeping Dogs: Definitive Edition benchmark. The lightning spazzes on a surface in the house section.
Are you overclocking? I find that it even if it's stable, it does that. Maybe just me though.
So, my current config being 4 years old, I'm thinking about finally upgrading it (only thing I bought in the last 4 years was new RAM).
Current config:
- CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955
- Motherboard: MSI 770-C45
- GPU: Saphire HD6850
- RAM: 2x4 GB DDR3 @ 1600MHz (Kingston HyperX). I still have 2x2GB @1333MHz lying around, but I don't think it's a good idea to couple it with the other RAM kit right?
- PSU: Pure Power L7 530W
- HDD: 1TB HDD (Samsung iirc)
- Case: No idea
- CPU Fan: the AMD fan being shit, I have a Noctua NH-D14
I haven't really followed CPUs in the last years, and Intel's CPU names are confusing as hell (I'll switch to Intel, that's a no brainer from what I've seen); I had no major problem with my AMD GPU, but I'm open to NVidia
I don't have very high requirements: I game at 1080p, it doesn't bother me not being at max settings, I just want something nice looking. I'm not too framerate sensitive, but at least constant 30fps should be a minimum for the next couple years, at high to medium settings.
On the budget side, no real limit, but it'd be nice to keep it under 800-1000/$
So, my main questions would be:
- What CPU/Motherboard should I get?
- For the GPU, I guess I'm better off waiting to see the next AMD ones, as it'll probably lower the prices right?
- Can I keep my PSU?
- I'll get a SSD. Anything to be particulary aware of? Also, I guess I'll need a new Windows licence?
Current config:
- CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955
- Motherboard: MSI 770-C45
- GPU: Saphire HD6850
- RAM: 2x4 GB DDR3 @ 1600MHz (Kingston HyperX). I still have 2x2GB @1333MHz lying around, but I don't think it's a good idea to couple it with the other RAM kit right?
- PSU: Pure Power L7 530W
- HDD: 1TB HDD (Samsung iirc)
- Case: No idea
- CPU Fan: the AMD fan being shit, I have a Noctua NH-D14
I haven't really followed CPUs in the last years, and Intel's CPU names are confusing as hell (I'll switch to Intel, that's a no brainer from what I've seen); I had no major problem with my AMD GPU, but I'm open to NVidia
I don't have very high requirements: I game at 1080p, it doesn't bother me not being at max settings, I just want something nice looking. I'm not too framerate sensitive, but at least constant 30fps should be a minimum for the next couple years, at high to medium settings.
On the budget side, no real limit, but it'd be nice to keep it under 800-1000/$
So, my main questions would be:
- What CPU/Motherboard should I get?
- For the GPU, I guess I'm better off waiting to see the next AMD ones, as it'll probably lower the prices right?
- Can I keep my PSU?
- I'll get a SSD. Anything to be particulary aware of? Also, I guess I'll need a new Windows licence?
Femmeworth
Banned
I think it is factory overclocked. Gigabyte GV-N970G1.
Yeah the CPU is a OC'd to 4.2GHz just now. Just wasn't sure how it would handle the new games coming ie The Witcher 3. Was thinking that the 780 may hold it back because it's got 3GB on it.
Think I might just wait till the next round of GPU's are out.
Thanks for the advice
.Starting to get that upgrade itch. Built my first computer just over two years ago; an HTPC / gaming machine hooked up to my main HDTV. No issues so far, but now the minimum requirements for Witcher 3 are just beyond my capabilities. Here's what I have:
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock Z77M LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Sandisk Solid State Drive 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card
Case: nMEDIAPC HTPC 5000B HTPC Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional Full (64-bit)
Thinking of just replacing my video card and calling it a day. Would a GTX 970 be a worthwhile upgrade? Would a GTX 980 be overkill for a 1080p display? Any advice would be appreciated.
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock Z77M LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Sandisk Solid State Drive 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card
Case: nMEDIAPC HTPC 5000B HTPC Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional Full (64-bit)
Thinking of just replacing my video card and calling it a day. Would a GTX 970 be a worthwhile upgrade? Would a GTX 980 be overkill for a 1080p display? Any advice would be appreciated.
IIRC, they'll be clocked at the lowest clock.
But I'm not sure, I more or less asked the same thing in my post above.
I don't know your case but it'd be worthwhile finding out what kind of low-profile CPU coolers could fit. That 2500K is begging to be overclocked.
970 would be an excellent choice.
Is it possible to overclock a 2500k on a H77 motherboard? I thought it needed a Z77, and only the newer CPUs could overclock on H77.
Muffin Awesome
Member
I have been back and forth a couple of pages ago about an afternoon market cooler, originally planned on doing a basic and simple one where no backplate was needed. Now I am getting the courage to install a cooler master hyper evo, question is will it fit in here you think?
It is a Thor case with an asus pro v mobo.
The one cable is across the front since it was too tight to run throug the back. Any suggestions before I pull the trigger?
It is a Thor case with an asus pro v mobo.
The one cable is across the front since it was too tight to run throug the back. Any suggestions before I pull the trigger?
I'm pretty sure this is a stupid question but anyway.
My BenQ EW2740L has a headphone jack which is currently wired to my PC speakers using an RCA cable. However I'd like to use headphones in my setup and "intercept" the sound, as such. So is there some kind of box which I can use in the middle whereby I can plug in headphones when I want to and the sound will come out of the headphones, or if no headphones plugged in then will go to the speakers directly?
For clarification, I've also got some consoles connected to my TV which I'd like to use headphones for so it's not as simple as plugging headphones straight into my PC.
My BenQ EW2740L has a headphone jack which is currently wired to my PC speakers using an RCA cable. However I'd like to use headphones in my setup and "intercept" the sound, as such. So is there some kind of box which I can use in the middle whereby I can plug in headphones when I want to and the sound will come out of the headphones, or if no headphones plugged in then will go to the speakers directly?
For clarification, I've also got some consoles connected to my TV which I'd like to use headphones for so it's not as simple as plugging headphones straight into my PC.
I have been back and forth a couple of pages ago about an afternoon market cooler, originally planned on doing a basic and simple one where no backplate was needed. Now I am getting the courage to install a cooler master hyper evo, question is will it fit in here you think?
It is a Thor case with an asus pro v mobo.
The one cable is across the front since it was too tight to run throug the back. Any suggestions before I pull the trigger?
You could get an extension for that cable, I can't really see what it is, but it looks like something like this might work.
Also, it seems your case has a cutout in the motherboard tray, so you won't need to take the motherboard out when mounting the cooler.
If the 390x gets something like that at $500, it would be craaaaaaaaaaaay
systematic
Unconfirmed Member
It's pretty easy - all you have to do is remove two screws, take the casing apart and put tape over the LEDs.
You could also replace the EVGA casing with a custom bridge cover.
You're putting the entire Imgur webpage inside your img tags, that is why it isnt working,
You need to have the direct image link for it to actually work.
Is it the 8 pin EPS12V that is going across the case like that?
You could just get an extension cord for it so that you are able to run it behind your motherboard.
Why is your graphics card not in the uppermost pci-e slot?
According to your manual, that slot is set to X1 speeds by default and can max run in X4
Muffin Awesome
Member
Thank you ricki42 and DD.
Sorry new to the Internet at 30 I guess in regards to imgur. Side thank you for the help there.
As far as the whole build I traded a PS4 for this and I know he had 2 gtx 760s in here originally so, it is probably just the aftermath of that setup and me not knowing that about the board.
I will look into the cable and jump the video card into the other PCIe slot, again I am an extreme novice. Thanks again and thank you to RGM and everyone else who has weighed in on my 20 questions haha.
This is the case I have. It's a Micro ATX Media Center case. I still haven't overclocked my 2500K. Never done it before and it sorta makes me nervous. My case is in a confined TV stand and doesn't get too much ventilation.
Whoops! I totally put the wrong motherboard in. That's the one I was going to get before I found out it couldn't be overclocked. I do have a Z77 board. This one to be exact.
- Status