"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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I'm building a new pc after AMD's shows off their new cards at E3. My budget is $2000.

Right now I'm looking at CPUs.

I want one that will be able to keep up with games for 3-4 years.

Probably going to get either the i5 4690k, i7 4790k, or i7 5820k.

They all seem great but I noticed that the 5820k uses DDR4 RAM so would that be the CPU to get?
 
Engell said:
here is another option
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vYkhLk

Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
MSI Z97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
Fractal Design Define Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case
Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Base Total: $971.92
Mail-in Rebates: -$20.00
Shipping: $1.99
Total: $953.91

and use your old harddrive as a secondary
maybe you could use your old case and PSU , but you could risk that the psu is missing some connectors
Click to expand...

Thanks dude.
 
Dennis said:
Between MSI and EVGA which would you guys recommend for the new Nvidia GTX 980 Ti ?
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As long as you're looking at reference cards, it doesn't really matter. If you're comparing the ACX vs Frozr non-reference cards, it again doesn't really matter.

They both offer 3 year warranties based on serial #, which increases their resale value compared to the AIBs that do not.

So you're good to go either way. EVGA probably has slightly better customer service, so there's that.
ShyGuy0504 said:
I'm building a new pc after AMD's shows off their new cards at E3. My budget is $2000.

Right now I'm looking at CPUs.

I want one that will be able to keep up with games for 3-4 years.

Probably going to get either the i5 4690k, i7 4790k, or i7 5820k.

They all seem great but I noticed that the 5820k uses DDR4 RAM so would that be the CPU to get?
Click to expand...
With a $2000 budget, I think going to the 2011-3/X99 platform with a 5820K makes a lot of sense.
 
Kayant said:
Either one is fine and they all have the silent mode feature of no fans spinning until 60C. Go with the cheapest and most aesthetically pleasing.
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I'd recommend the Asus Strix one.
They all probably have coil whine (went through five different 970's before I got one without. 2x asus strix, 1x msi gaming and 1x evga ssc, 1x evga sc), but the asus strix runs faster than the one from msi and it's quieter. EVGA's 970's are loud and they run hotter. EVGA's 980's though are quiet and cool. I'd get a Asus 970 DCII instead of the strix card since that supposedly doesn't have the same coil whine issue.

EDIT: I bought a Gigabyte 970 G1 Gaming which doesn't have any coil whine. All the others mentioned had terrible and/or enough whine to be annoying even during plausible framerates (60-300). The G1 though has a very overrated cooler. For one it instantly shoots up the fans to 70% speed and at that speed it's pretty loud. Still the temps can go up to 76 deg C under full load depending on the game. Secondly it doesn't have an exhaust! For some dumb reason it doesn't blow out the hot air out the back. Meaning it recycles hot air inside the chassi. I run a custom fan curve at 60% with which it never goes beyond 80 deg C and that's while pushing The Witcher 3 to 1527p on ultra.
It usually hovers around 73-74 deg C under full load in most games with this fan setting. In short it's a good card with great factory OC (mine is running at 1380MHz), but with some stupid design choices. Nothing to worry about if you have solid airflow in your case. I use a Define R4.
 
ACE 1991 said:
Gaming mice recommendations? Looking to spend $50 and under, I'd like something good for shooters as I've been getting pretty into CS:GO recently. Are wireless mice still generally not the way to guy for twitch games?
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Wireless mice are probably still a no go if you're a shooter player. I suspect you'll notice the latency endemic to the style rather quickly.

As for recommendations, I just bought this Razer Deathadder Chroma. Got it refurbished from Amazon for $45. Aside from a slightly beat up box, it's perfect. Super comfortable size for my hand, nice grips that don't seem like they'll wear down much over time and you can customize the colors. It's a dumb little feature, but I still dig it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MYTSDU4/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished
 
king grimlock said:
I would love to do that but 2 things are bothering me

1. I've heard that Watercooling is expensive as hell.

2. I'm not exactly the most experienced with PC hardware handling and not really confident in my ability to not mess up my expensive things.

but that does make more sense to me so I'll be looking into it.
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Water cooling is fun as hell, and can get expensive. Sometimes I think I fuss and rebuild and rearrange things related to watercooling more than I use my computer for gaming or anything else.

My advice is to watch lots of videos about it, Dazmode, Ronsanut, Tiny Tom Logan, and lots of others have a million videos about it.

Remember that the reasons for going with custom water-cooling are A)Looks B)Bragging rights and C) you are person who likes to tinker around. Performance is not a primary reason for custom loops anymore, IMO. You might be able to get a little cooler temps, etc. from a good custom loop, but rarely enough to justify the money.

The costs wouldn't be too bad if you just put together your loop and left it, lets say with one of the excellent EK or XSPC kits...but it can be addicting to keep adding to it and make it better and better! If you have any more questions, several of us on the thread do custom loops.

ShyGuy0504 said:
I'm building a new pc after AMD's shows off their new cards at E3. My budget is $2000.

Right now I'm looking at CPUs.

I want one that will be able to keep up with games for 3-4 years.

Probably going to get either the i5 4690k, i7 4790k, or i7 5820k.

They all seem great but I noticed that the 5820k uses DDR4 RAM so would that be the CPU to get?
Click to expand...

Agree with MKenyon. You could also consider Skylake which is coming out this year Q4.
 
mkenyon said:
With a $2000 budget, I think going to the 2011-3/X99 platform with a 5820K makes a lot of sense.
Click to expand...

appaws said:
Agree with MKenyon. You could also consider Skylake which is coming out this year Q4.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies. I was leaning that way but wanted to hear some other opinions. 5820k it is.

I've actually wanted to upgrade for a while and kept putting it off but now I have the summer off and the money to build.

Built my first pc 5 years ago and I'm ready to do it again.

If Skylake turns out to be a massive upgrade then oh well. :p
 
ShyGuy0504 said:
Thanks for the replies. I was leaning that way but wanted to hear some other opinions. 5820k it is.

I've actually wanted to upgrade for a while and kept putting it off but now I have the summer off and the money to build.

Built my first pc 5 years ago and I'm ready to do it again.

If Skylake turns out to be a massive upgrade then oh well. :p
Click to expand...
Skylake should not be a massive upgrade at all compared to the X99 platform. The 5820K is a 6C/12T CPU, and the top end (consumer) Skylake part will still be 4C/8T.
 
I just joined the 144hz G-sync world today. Can anyone recommend any 144hz and or G-sync tests to run? I have used the G-sync pendulum demo. Thanks.
 
So there's a lot of info in this thread, a bit overwhelming for someone like me who hates building pcs. So, is there an decent pre-built PC for ~600 dollars anyone could recommend? According to popular opinion on the internet, I should be able to get something for under this price that could run AAA games better than their console counterparts. I would like to be able to play newer AAA games at 1080p @ 60hz. I don't need accessories, just the PC.
 
RiZ III said:
According to popular opinion on the internet, I should be able to get something for under this price that could run AAA games better than their console counterparts.
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Ehhhhhh...

Pre-built?

Just get an Alienware Alpha for what you want.

Also, internet opinion is for custom built PCs, not pre-built.

If you can do 699, this perhaps http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227536

Or if you want NVIDIA, the Syber thing that will be used as the Steam machinefor 629 at Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MW7UUY0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
 
Dmax3901 said:
You know the red switch that basically screams DON'T TOUCH! ?

Yeah.
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The ones that switch the input voltage from 110 to 220 or whatever it is? Yeea, that doesn't sound good.

Unplug everything, maybe wear gloves if you're nervous, remove it from system.

Depending on what you meant by "blew up."
 
Posting from work atm, it was a 550w coolermaster one.

Thankfully my GPU was not plugged in. My main concerns is the hard drive. the mobo (z68 ud3 gigabyte) and cpu (i5 2500k) aren't brand spanking new so if I have to upgrade from scratch so be it. Case is old too.
 
Dmax3901 said:
Posting from work atm, it was a 550w coolermaster one.

Thankfully my GPU was not plugged in. My main concerns is the hard drive. the mobo (z68 ud3 gigabyte) and cpu (i5 2500k) aren't brand spanking new so if I have to upgrade from scratch so be it. Case is old too.
Click to expand...

Looks like your first order of business is to get a replacement power supply. Hook things up to see if anything else was damaged. If not then you're still good to go.
 
RGM79 said:
Looks like your first order of business is to get a replacement power supply. Hook things up to see if anything else was damaged. If not then you're still good to go.
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I was gonna take it in to a PC repair shop just cause I didn't want to get electrocuted. If the damage PSU isn't plugged in AT ALL, is there any danger?
 
Dmax3901 said:
I was gonna take it in to a PC repair shop just cause I didn't want to get electrocuted. If the damage PSU isn't plugged in AT ALL, is there any danger?
Click to expand...

Oh, that's fine then, PC shop guys will handle it.

It's safe to say the old PSU is blown and isn't even worth plugging in again, so no danger.
 
RGM79 said:
Oh, that's fine then, PC shop guys will handle it.

It's safe to say the old PSU is blown and isn't even worth plugging in again, so no danger.
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Only thing is, the guy I spoke to on the phone said it'd be $179 (AUD) for them to unplug and test each component. Even he recommended I just put that toward a ground-up upgrade.

Thoughts on that? Should I just save the cash and go all out?
 
Dmax3901 said:
Only thing is, the guy I spoke to on the phone said it'd be $179 (AUD) for them to unplug and test each component. Even he recommended I just put that toward a ground-up upgrade.

Thoughts on that? Should I just save the cash and go all out?
Click to expand...

In this case, the i5 2500K processor and motherboard probably aren't worth testing as they're a few generations old and already discontinued. They are still good if they are working, but replacement socket 1155 motherboards and CPUs are hard to come by unless you don't mind buying used computer parts.

Yeah, you might just want to start shopping for new PC parts, then. It's easy enough to test if your old hard drives and graphics card still work, though. If you have another PC lying around or can borrow a friend's PC, you can put in the hard drive and graphics card from the dead PC into the working one to see if they have any problems. It won't cause any damage to the working PC to test components this way.

Dmax3901 said:
Which is what I thought. My gf has a PC, I think I'm gonna unplug her PSU and plug it into mine to see what happens. Any danger in that?
Click to expand...

It's safe, just don't touch the voltage switch again.
 
RGM79 said:
In this case, the i5 2500K processor and motherboard probably aren't worth testing as they're a few generations old and already discontinued. They are still good if they are working, but replacement socket 1155 motherboards and CPUs are hard to come by unless you don't mind buying used computer parts.

Yeah, you might just want to start shopping for new PC parts, then. It's easy enough to test if your old hard drives and graphics card still work, though. If you have another PC lying around or can borrow a friend's PC, you can put in the hard drive and graphics card from the dead PC into the working one to see if they have any problems. It won't cause any damage to the working PC to test components this way.



It's safe, just don't touch the voltage switch again.
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Awesome thanks for this.

And thanks everyone for not laughing in my face!
 
Is it just me or have SSD's gotten a lot cheaper in the 3 or 4 years since my last build?

Like, I can get a 256GB Samsung SSD for $127CAD, that's only like a hundred bucks USD. That's how much 128GB SSD's used to cost when I made my build, and that was before the CAD collapsed.
 
Mr.Mike said:
Is it just me or have SSD's gotten a lot cheaper in the 3 or 4 years since my last build?

Are people building computers with only SSD's now? It seems totally feasible, ever for like mid range builds and stuff.
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There was a recent price drop for the mass consumer drives which are using like gen 2-3 of 'stacked' flash memory which has a shorter (but still way more than enough) write life alongside big pushes in volume of this stuff sold.

Samsung and Crucial are going at it and it's great for BX100/850 EVO.
 
Airflow question. I installed everything in my air 240 over the weekend and it all runs perfectly the only thing I can't seem to get my head around is how to get the best airflow.
Cpu is cooled by a h80i which is mounted at the top front slot pushing hot air out. Below that is another 120mm fan sucking cool air in, this more or less aligns with my 970 g1.

At first I was worried about cooling the cpu with hot air but even after 2 hours of playing the witcher it doesn't go higher than 58° but I'm still worried about the airflow for my gpu, it currently tops at about 72 degrees which is about 8 degrees higher than my previous case, but that shouldn't be an issue right?

The only space where I could mount another fan would be right below the gpu, and it would directly blow cold air into it, but seeing as there's only about 5mm of clearing between the table and bottom of the case I doubt it would make a lot of difference.
Is there another way that would increase cooling?

Also I'm seriously toying with the idea of selling my 970 as I use a 1440p screen and the 970 is a bit lack luster. Would I benefit buying the reference turbine cooler or would it be better to with an evga acx 2 style cooler?
 
MoonGred said:
Airflow question. I installed everything in my air 240 over the weekend and it all runs perfectly the only thing I can't seem to get my head around is how to get the best airflow.
Cpu is cooled by a h80i which is mounted at the top front slot pushing hot air out. Below that is another 120mm fan sucking cool air in, this more or less aligns with my 970 g1.

At first I was worried about cooling the cpu with hot air but even after 2 hours of playing the witcher it doesn't go higher than 58° but I'm still worried about the airflow for my gpu, it currently tops at about 72 degrees which is about 8 degrees higher than my previous case, but that shouldn't be an issue right?

The only space where I could mount another fan would be right below the gpu, and it would directly blow cold air into it, but seeing as there's only about 5mm of clearing between the table and bottom of the case I doubt it would make a lot of difference.
Is there another way that would increase cooling?

Also I'm seriously toying with the idea of selling my 970 as I use a 1440p screen and the 970 is a bit lack luster. Would I benefit buying the reference turbine cooler or would it be better to with an evga acx 2 style cooler?
Click to expand...

If you are using a reference cooler for the 970, 72 degrees is good.

Wait, why do you have the AIO at the front pushing out hot air and an intake fan both at the front?

Shouldn't you be using both front fans as intake and then a fan on the back for exhaust?
 
Finished my build! Dropped from the R5 case to the S, then switched the MX100 to a 850 EVO instead.

Tu1i29x.jpg

hjCwSZv.jpg
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Not sure what I'm doing with the cables, but at least I have the option of hiding them compared to my old case.

Installed Windows 8.1 pretty fast off a USB drive. Also these default apps suck because they're full screen and don't return to the desktop when I hit escape. D:
 
Saprol said:
Finished my build! Dropped from the R5 case to the S, then switched the MX100 to a 850 EVO instead.


Not sure what I'm doing with the cables, but at least I have the option of hiding them compared to my old case.

Installed Windows 8.1 pretty fast off a USB drive. Also these default apps suck because they're full screen and don't return to the desktop when I hit escape. D:
Click to expand...

Wait, was your previous case the R5?
 
Ok so I've decided to go with an all new PC, yay! My HDDs seem to be ok, and I assume my two optical ones are good too (dvd and blu-ray). My r9 290 was thankfully not installed when I did the bad thing, so I'm set for a GPU for now too.

As for most other components, it's been 4 - 6 years since I've upgraded them so I'm definitely out of the loop. I guess I'm turning to you guys for help in educating and enlightening me in the following areas.

MOBO

I know next to nothing about motherboards, whatever I need for modern PC parts will be fine.

CPU

My i5 2500k served me well, but it also means I've no clue when it comes the current CPU market. I assume Intel are still the way to go, but as for prices, models and number of cores? No idea. I guess I want something AT LEAST as powerful as an i5 2500k clocked to 4.5ghz, but if a bit more money will get me a lot more performance then so be it.

RAM

Another area I'm unsure of. I hope it's still as cheap as it was in 2011! I had 8gb before, is 16gb the norm now? Can I mix and match with my old gskill 8gb 1600mhz?

CASE

My CM690 is coming up to six years old, and I've really messed it up over that time. Size isn't really a problem, again, whatever is good and relatively cheap these days.

SSD

I've liked the sound of SSDs for a long time now but have always been put off by 1. The small size and 2. the ordeal of transferring everything from to the other, especially my steam files, ugh. I'd like some advice on you guys on both what a good bang for your buck SSD is, but also how best to go about transferring from my old HD to the new SSD.

COOLING

And finally (unless I'm forgetting something) there's the cooling. I have several fans in my old case, two of which would be easy to remove and put in a new one, but I assume it would be better to start from scratch? Water cooling sounds great, but is another scary concept both in terms of money and execution. As for CPU cooling, I'd love some recommendations.

I'm happy with my current speakers, mouse and keyboard. My current monitor isn't ideal, but I'll probably wait and upgrade that a bit further down the line.

Think that's everything, thanks in advance to anyone who helps out, you guys do great work here.

Edit: Ha! Of course of all things to forget...

PSU

Whatever's good and cheap-ish, I presume 550w is a bit on the low side these days, so 650w or more I guess?
 
NeOak said:
If you are using a reference cooler for the 970, 72 degrees is good.

Wait, why do you have the AIO at the front pushing out hot air and an intake fan both at the front?

Shouldn't you be using both front fans as intake and then a fan on the back for exhaust?
Click to expand...

Ideally that's what I want to do as well, two at the front to suck in cool air and one exhaust.
I'm not home at the moment, so I can't double check, but I've only got space for a 80mm fan at the back. I've looked at it over and over again and I can't seem to figure out a way that would make sense.
Even if I were to mount the AIO at the top and put a 2nd intake fan at the front it would mostly be blocked by the AIO fan seeing as it's so bulky.
The benefit of the case is that the whole top part is just a grate which gets rid of hot air that way.

Edit: I might be able to mount an exhaust fan at the top of the case, I'd just have to find a way to run the AIO tubes
 
Saprol said:
No, it was a crappy Antec Sonata. I meant I made space in my budget by buying the S instead for like $40-50 less.
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Oh nice. I went with the R5 and ended up with this

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MoonGred said:
Ideally that's what I want to do as well, two at the front to suck in cool air and one exhaust.
I'm not home at the moment, so I can't double check, but I've only got space for a 80mm fan at the back. I've looked at it over and over again and I can't seem to figure out a way that would make sense.
Even if I were to mount the AIO at the top and put a 2nd intake fan at the front it would mostly be blocked by the AIO fan seeing as it's so bulky.
The benefit of the case is that the whole top part is just a grate which gets rid of hot air that way.
Click to expand...

You need new fans.

Get silent fans and do this:

dennis-sys2.jpg

Bird's eye view. In order to fit two H75s in the main chamber, one had to be arranged in a push-pull configuration.

dennis-sys3.jpg

The H75s operate as intakes, keeping the blowers on the HG10s fed while the two top fans work as exhausts.
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http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2014/november/dennis_build_log

Put the waterblock as intake in a push pull configuration, a 2nd fan and then get the 2 for the top.

As I said, get silent fans if you are concerned with noise.
 
Saprol said:
Finished my build! Dropped from the R5 case to the S, then switched the MX100 to a 850 EVO instead.


Not sure what I'm doing with the cables, but at least I have the option of hiding them compared to my old case.

Installed Windows 8.1 pretty fast off a USB drive. Also these default apps suck because they're full screen and don't return to the desktop when I hit escape. D:
Click to expand...

That looks nice.

I'm going to build very soon and that's the case I'm planning to get.
 
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