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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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MUnited83

For you.
Regarding hard-drives, the best manufacturer is Western Digital, correct?

I'm looking at HDD Western Digital Purple 4TB SATA III 64MB (WD40PURX) and Western Digital Red 4TB SATA III 64MB (WD40EFRX), they are the same price. Which is the better one for personal use?
 

LilJoka

Member
Regarding hard-drives, the best manufacturer is Western Digital, correct?

I'm looking at HDD Western Digital Purple 4TB SATA III 64MB (WD40PURX) and Western Digital Red 4TB SATA III 64MB (WD40EFRX), they are the same price. Which is the better one for personal use?

Go for Hitachi Deskstar 4TB
 

Skii

Member
Every time I play the Witcher 3, after a period of time (30 minutes to an hour), the game will crash and I get the "nvidia drivers have stopped responding and has recovered" message. I don't really understand why it is crashing at all.

My specs are:
i5-6600k
16GB RAM (3000Mhz)
MSI GTX 970

I have everything on ultra (no hairworks) aside from shadow quality and grass density I think. I get 55-60fps. I assume the hardware should be able to handle this considering my relatively high fps.
 
Every time I play the Witcher 3, after a period of time (30 minutes to an hour), the game will crash and I get the "nvidia drivers have stopped responding and has recovered" message. I don't really understand why it is crashing at all.

My specs are:
i5-6600k
16GB RAM (3000Mhz)
MSI GTX 970

I have everything on ultra (no hairworks) aside from shadow quality and grass density I think. I get 55-60fps. I assume the hardware should be able to handle this considering my relatively high fps.

Yeah...have you tried a clean install of the drivers, perhaps?
 

knitoe

Member
Every time I play the Witcher 3, after a period of time (30 minutes to an hour), the game will crash and I get the "nvidia drivers have stopped responding and has recovered" message. I don't really understand why it is crashing at all.

My specs are:
i5-6600k
16GB RAM (3000Mhz)
MSI GTX 970

I have everything on ultra (no hairworks) aside from shadow quality and grass density I think. I get 55-60fps. I assume the hardware should be able to handle this considering my relatively high fps.

Video driver crash could mean the OC is not stable. Is the card OC, manually or factory? If yes, downclock, run at the normal stock speed for a 970 and play W3 again.
 

low-G

Member
Whelp, RMA'ed my mobo to newegg. Crossing fingers that they handle this shit right AND when I put this computer back together again it actually works, and for longer than 2 weeks.

So, to not have to deal with the CM 212 for yet another time, I've ordered the Noctura ND-D14. *crossing fingers*

(anyways you'll hear from me in what... 2-3 weeks? :/)
 

Jag

Member
Whelp, RMA'ed my mobo to newegg. Crossing fingers that they handle this shit right AND when I put this computer back together again it actually works, and for longer than 2 weeks.

So, to not have to deal with the CM 212 for yet another time, I've ordered the Noctura ND-D14. *crossing fingers*

(anyways you'll hear from me in what... 2-3 weeks? :/)

Which mobo?
 

Giever

Member
I've been really pumped about getting a new desktop, but since I'm a student and travel a bit, a laptop could be useful, although 95% of the time it would be on my desk. I'm so torn!

Just get a cheap/shit laptop that can do office/student/internet-type work and get a nice desktop for most of your actual usage?
 

knitoe

Member
How would I go about doing that? Pretty new to all of this lol.



I haven't overclocked it.

This is GTX 970 I have. Can't really tell if it is factory OCed.

It's a factory overclock card. Downclock it to stock 970 core / memory speeds with either MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision.
 

Skii

Member
It's a factory overclock card. Downclock it to stock 970 core / memory speeds with either MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision.

Okay thanks for the help!

I'm going to try a clean install of the drivers first (when I figure that out) and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll downclock as you have suggested. If downclocking does fix it, would that make me eligible to return/exchange the card? Considering that it is effectively faulty.
 

RGM79

Member
Well, there's the 24 pin mobo power connector, then the 8(?) pin CPU (?) power connector. I'm just unfamiliar with this architecture. The mobo manual says those 8 pins are optional, but they didn't seem optional to me...

They're technically optional. But you would never not want to plug it in.


That's unfortunate. However, given that it only seems to rear its ugly head on Z170 PCs running Gameworks titles and possibly with certain settings enabled.. it might be a software or driver issue rather than specifically a hardware issue with Z170 chipsets having defective SLI.
 

The Technomancer

card-carrying scientician
Whelp my Z77 has never been that good and I think its actively degrading or something for the last few months so I just went ahead and ordered a Z97. Hope this one is better overall, even out of the box my Z77 was kind of awful
 

RGM79

Member
Fuck. Okay I can still cancel the order. What motherboard should I get then?

I'll look up my exact processor when I get home
How much are you looking to spend, and will you be doing any overclocking?

These are all the choices you have available for brand new unless you opt to buy a used socket 1155 motherboard. If you won't be overclocking or have a non-overclocking processor, then there's a wider range of motherboards available to you.

ASRock Z77 motherboards should be avoided if possible due to faulty voltage readings. They're not unusable, but are not a good choice for overclocking.

In any case, you also have the option of seeing if anyone will buy your i5 processor second-hand and just buying a new processor to go along with the Z97 motherboard.
 

The Technomancer

card-carrying scientician
I dont even need a particularly good board, this Z77 is just a piece of shit that takes an eternity to boit up and another eternity to be usable after logging jn

I'll check those options out
 

TheBez

Member
So I've been having issues with my PC and could use some help. It started with the GFX Card's fans stopping about a minute after starting it up causing no image to display. Naturally, I assumed there was something wrong with the card since everything else seemed to power and start up fine and the onboard graphics worked. I got the card replaced by an RMA and put it in today and had the same problem. So, I tried out the onboard again and now they aren't working either. On top of that, holding down the power button to shut off my PC shuts it off, but then it boots back up a second or so later. Is my mobo messing up and should I get it RMA'd or does anyone think it could be something else.

I built the PC in December of last year and it has the following:
Intel Core i7-4790K Processor
Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM
EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V/EPS12V 850W Power Supply
240 GB SSD
3 TB HDD
1 TB HDD
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan
GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-SLI LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
EVGA GeForce GTX 970
 
So I've been having issues with my PC and could use some help. It started with the GFX Card's fans stopping about a minute after starting it up causing no image to display. Naturally, I assumed there was something wrong with the card since everything else seemed to power and start up fine and the onboard graphics worked. I got the card replaced by an RMA and put it in today and had the same problem. So, I tried out the onboard again and now they aren't working either. On top of that, holding down the power button to shut off my PC shuts it off, but then it boots back up a second or so later. Is my mobo messing up and should I get it RMA'd or does anyone think it could be something else.

I built the PC in December of last year and it has the following:
Intel Core i7-4790K Processor
Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM
EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V/EPS12V 850W Power Supply
240 GB SSD
3 TB HDD
1 TB HDD
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan
GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-SLI LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
EVGA GeForce GTX 970
Hm, do you have another PSU on hand you could try?
 

Jzero

Member
So I've been having issues with my PC and could use some help. It started with the GFX Card's fans stopping about a minute after starting it up causing no image to display. Naturally, I assumed there was something wrong with the card since everything else seemed to power and start up fine and the onboard graphics worked. I got the card replaced by an RMA and put it in today and had the same problem. So, I tried out the onboard again and now they aren't working either. On top of that, holding down the power button to shut off my PC shuts it off, but then it boots back up a second or so later. Is my mobo messing up and should I get it RMA'd or does anyone think it could be something else.

I built the PC in December of last year and it has the following:
Intel Core i7-4790K Processor
Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM
EVGA SuperNOVA 850G2 80PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V/EPS12V 850W Power Supply
240 GB SSD
3 TB HDD
1 TB HDD
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan
GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-SLI LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
EVGA GeForce GTX 970
Check for bent CPU pins on the motherboard.
 

TheBez

Member
Hm, do you have another PSU on hand you could try?

I might be able to pull one out of some other computer, but I'm not sure if they're beefy enough. Whats the minimum I should test it with?

Check for bent CPU pins on the motherboard.

These issues didn't show up until a few months of use, if it were bent CPU pins wouldn't I have had issues from the start?

Thank you both for your suggestions so far :)
 

LilJoka

Member
I might be able to pull one out of some other computer, but I'm not sure if they're beefy enough. Whats the minimum I should test it with?



These issues didn't show up until a few months of use, if it were bent CPU pins wouldn't I have had issues from the start?

Thank you both for your suggestions so far :)

450W would be sufficient for bootup as long as it's a quality PSU (ie has most of its amperage on the 12v rail).

It probably something wrong with the board. CPU issues are extremely rare to occur after months of use unless abused with overclockimg, it's usually DOA.
 

Stasis

Member
What else could cause taking forever to start and forever to respond in the ~5 minutes after starting?

Please don't say processor

Motherboard is far down the list of what could possibly be causing this...

Run an HD check, and if it's all clear I'd clean install. Unless you know how to properly clean and config Windows/programs and startup after you've been using a PC for a while. Even experienced users will eventually clean install.

If you want a really fast boot, then spend the money on an SSD instead. Unless you already have one, in which case there's very likely an issue with it or it's connection to the mobo...
 

SRG01

Member
Does anyone have any experience mounting case fans horizontally? I've been getting a clicking sound from a couple of my fans -- like a bearing went out or something, but it only lasts for a minute or so.

What else could cause taking forever to start and forever to respond in the ~5 minutes after starting?

Please don't say processor

Once everything stabilizes, run something like CPU-Z or other programs and see if your clock speed is stuck. I've heard tangentally about some processors being stuck at the lowest multiplier for some odd reason.
 
I'm having a bit of trouble with my internet connection on my desktop, and am thinking about either upgradng the network card or getting a wi-fi range extender since my comp is located on the opposite side of the apartment from the router. Anyone have any suggestions or advice?

These are the two that I am looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1440891186&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.ca/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HSQAIQU/TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Universal-Extender-Powerline-20/ref=gb1h_img_m-3_3342_169dd9fc?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=1MJETZDN0ZAF5QN6NAYB&pf_rd_i=1265255011&pf_rd_p=2057143342
 

knitoe

Member
Okay thanks for the help!

I'm going to try a clean install of the drivers first (when I figure that out) and see if that fixes it. If not, I'll downclock as you have suggested. If downclocking does fix it, would that make me eligible to return/exchange the card? Considering that it is effectively faulty.

Yes, you can RMA it since it can't run at the rated speeds. As for cleen install, first, try reinstalling the drivers using Custom > clean install instead of Express option. You can also try Video card uninstaller.

http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
I'm having a bit of trouble with my internet connection on my desktop, and am thinking about either upgradng the network card or getting a wi-fi range extender since my comp is located on the opposite side of the apartment from the router. Anyone have any suggestions or advice?

These are the two that I am looking at:

http://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1440891186&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.ca/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00HSQAIQU/TL-WPA4220KIT-ADVANCED-Universal-Extender-Powerline-20/ref=gb1h_img_m-3_3342_169dd9fc?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=1MJETZDN0ZAF5QN6NAYB&pf_rd_i=1265255011&pf_rd_p=2057143342

Try doing a powerline connection. Otherwise, get router with better long range signal strength or wifi extender device.
 

ILoveBish

Member
Ok, so ran into another issue. My cousin came over, and we re-did the entire fan/heatsink install. Now, it came out perfect, i did the line method, and we put it all together. Now it didn't boot again just like the first time i put it all together. I took everything apart, bare components left, and i had to only use 1 stick of ram for it to boot, in slot b2. Once i was in PC, i did prime95 and now temps are proper 73c or so at all 4 cores and everythings running fine. I turn it all off, and try to get both sticks working. Put every stick in each slot and the only way it boots with 1 stick is if its in B2, and with 2 sticks, is if its in B1 & B2. If any stick is in A1/A2, it does not boot.

I5-6600k
Asus Z170-k
Crucial 8GB (2x4GB) Kit Ballistix Sport Memory - DDR4, CL16, PC4-19200, 2400MT/s - BLS2K4G4D240FSA

Am i boned or what? I upgraded to the newest bios, reset everything to default and same thing. Is it the ram or are the A1/A2 ports bad on this board? Can i leave the sticks in B1/B2 and run it as is? Is there a performance difference from having them in A2/B2? That is what the manual recommends, A2/B2. Which is where i had them before i took everything apart to redo the paste. And it worked fine.
 

Wag

Member
Got my 5820k up and running. Haven't tried overclocking or anything yet.

Fucking MS is incompetent. Trying to activate Win 10 on a new motherboard is a nightmare. I spent 2hrs on chat with some guy in India, he did remote assistance and then lost connection. That was it. I think I'm going to just do a fresh install. No way am I going to go through that again.
 

yoshizzle

Member
Hi guys.

I'm looking to build my own PC for the first time. I have some ideas of what I want. I'm just not sure on which parts/brands to go with. I also don't plan on overclocking. I'm looking to buy parts from good brands that won't fail on me anytime soon -- I plan on using this rig for at least 4 years. Gonna be buying everything from Amazon (first choice) and Newegg. My budget is around $800-850.

What I'd like:

Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core or better
GTX 970 (an r9 390 would work too. Although I'll be gaming no higher than 1080p)
1 TB Hard Drive (or maybe a 250gb SSD if it's essential. I don't install many applications/games at a time so I'd be fine with that capacity. I'd prefer having only one storage device)
8 GB Ram

Not sure on the motherboard/power supply/case.

A PCPartPicker list of everything would be great and much appreciated!

Don't need: Mouse, Keyboard, Monitor, Optical Drive, Headphones, Windows

[Basic Desktop Questions]
Your Current Specs: Not worth mentioning.
Budget: $800-850, USA
Main Use: Gaming / Secondary: General Usage
Monitor Resolution: 1600x900. Will buy a 1920x1080 monitor in the future.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Witcher 3 @ 60 fps. How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? Not very.
Looking to reuse any parts? No.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? Very soon, but I wouldn't mind waiting if there are upcoming deals.
Will you be overclocking?: No.
 

low-G

Member
Got my 5820k up and running. Haven't tried overclocking or anything yet.

Fucking MS is incompetent. Trying to activate Win 10 on a new motherboard is a nightmare. I spent 2hrs on chat with some guy in India, he did remote assistance and then lost connection. That was it. I think I'm going to just do a fresh install. No way am I going to go through that again.

I'm not familiar with hardware ID. Will I have to do this when I get my replacement mobo (same model)?
 

Evo X

Member
Holy shit, caught something troubling in HWMonitor today.

Had my CPU Cache voltage set to Auto in the BIOS, and it's been running at 1.48v for the last 2 weeks!

Manually lowered it to 1.15v just now. Hope it didn't cause any permanent damage.
 

longdi

Banned
I'm not familiar with hardware ID. Will I have to do this when I get my replacement mobo (same model)?

The recent call I did, it was through an automated phone process. It will generate a new key from old.

The latest upgrade build I made, installed win8(not 8.1) and then upgraded to 10, didn't even asked for a new key. Works with the old key which had been used on a different set of hardware
 

Wag

Member
So I did a fresh install of Win 10 now and I'm still getting the same error. It's blocked me from activating Win10. Fuck. Now I'm going to spend hours on the phone with Microsoft tech support again. 😭
 

Maiden Voyage

Gold™ Member
So I did a fresh install of Win 10 now and I'm still getting the same error. It's blocked me from activating Win10. Fuck. Now I'm going to spend hours on the phone with Microsoft tech support again. 😭

Is this the key you used upgrading from 7 or 8.1? If so, they don't allow fresh installs. You need to reinstall your old OS and upgrade again. Or buy a new key for 10.
 

longdi

Banned
Is this the key you used upgrading from 7 or 8.1? If so, they don't allow fresh installs. You need to reinstall your old OS and upgrade again. Or buy a new key for 10.

Yes, you cant activate a fresh 10 install with 7/8 key.

Do what i did, install 8, no need to further download updates or upgrade to 8.1. Just go straight to 10 upgrade via the downloaded iso file. Took me about 20 minutes with SSD and USB3.0 from start to finish.
 
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