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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Grassy

Member
I went with a 5820k because I game @ 4k and I want to have the option to add a 3rd 980Ti later on (should I decide to).

Would have gone with a 6770k otherwise.

I'm beginning to wish I went with 5820K, because...


I've been trying to sort this shit out the last few weeks with my new system...
At least they know what the problem is now, so hopefully it's sorted out shortly. I posted in that MSi thread at the end there, about how changing my PCIEX Link Speed in my BIOS increased my performance in The Witcher 3(albeit somewhat up and down).
Someone else on overclock.net tried the same tweak and confirmed it improved his performance as well, so it looks like it could be a combination of driver/BIOS issues.

I know there's always going to be issues to iron out with new hardware and it's not the end of the world, but it's still pretty fucking annoying when you've just built a new PC to find issues like this that somehow made it through QC.
Some people who've spoken to ASUS/MSi/Gigabyte etc about this issue have been told to RMA their motherboards, or even told that one of their videocards is probably stuffed.
Pretty ridiculous.

Sorry for the rant...
 
I've been really pumped about getting a new desktop, but since I'm a student and travel a bit, a laptop could be useful, although 95% of the time it would be on my desk. I'm so torn!

Buy a chromebook or some other cheap netbook for media/browsing/working on and a midrange desktop gaming PC

It's still cheaper than a gaming laptop and the desktop pc will still CRUSH the gaming laptop in games performance.

Little sluggish but totally usable.
As others have said this is definitely your hard drive.

Buy a Western digital blue (model WD 10EZEX) for 50 dollars and be amazed at 15second boot up times on a HDD.
 

dmix90

Member
I'm beginning to wish I went with 5820K, because...



I've been trying to sort this shit out the last few weeks with my new system...
At least they know what the problem is now, so hopefully it's sorted out shortly. I posted in that MSi thread at the end there, about how changing my PCIEX Link Speed in my BIOS increased my performance in The Witcher 3(albeit somewhat up and down).
Someone else on overclock.net tried the same tweak and confirmed it improved his performance as well, so it looks like it could be a combination of driver/BIOS issues.

I know there's always going to be issues to iron out with new hardware and it's not the end of the world, but it's still pretty fucking annoying when you've just built a new PC to find issues like this that somehow made it through QC.
Some people who've spoken to ASUS/MSi/Gigabyte etc about this issue have been told to RMA their motherboards, or even told that one of their videocards is probably stuffed.
Pretty ridiculous.

Sorry for the rant...
I feel ya.... My preparations for MGSV just failed miserably. Ground Zeroes works fine i guess so there is some hope. I tried this bios tweak but i think it changed nothing for me :( or i am testing W3 in the spot which is not affected by it. Funny thing is that once i somehow glitched w3 that it worked as intended until i restarted game. I think i just disabled both Hairworks with its AA and post process AA in some magic order, lol. Other guy from tom's hardware thread noticed that performance drops similar to w3 in games which use nvidia gameworks stuff and i can confirm that its the case for me as well in unity and fc4. I tried other games with gameworks but there were no such drastic performance decreases. So maybe only specific version of gameworks library is affected. Probably nvidia driver issue, but its kinda strange for me that they need to optimize their drivers for specific chipset i thought this kind of stuff should be standartized across all boards.

Worst upgrade of my life so far xD. My trusty six years old PSU died the day i brought new motherboard and cpu home ( he KNEW!!! ) so i was forced to get a new one and........... it was dead on arrival. Gladly second one was ok and still works but yeah.
 

Jimrpg

Member
Buy a chromebook or some other cheap netbook for media/browsing/working on and a midrange desktop gaming PC

It's still cheaper than a gaming laptop and the desktop pc will still CRUSH the gaming laptop in games performance.


As others have said this is definitely your hard drive.

Buy a Western digital blue (model WD 10EZEX) for 50 dollars and be amazed at 15second boot up times on a HDD.

Just to add to this - my sister in law got the Asus X205TA eeebook, its got an Intel Atom Processor, 2gb ram, and 64gb HD and 11" screen and weighs 1kg. Its pretty good for $199. Good for browsing, youtube and some light work. I still think a bigger screen is more productive though if you want to use it for work.
 

Daffy Duck

Member
So I'm going to install my new stuff today but I have a question, the msi 980ti, do I need to connect it up with two lots of power cables to it?

The instructions are a little ambiguous as it says connect a 6/8 pin connector so do I connect both a 6 pin and an 8 pin connector?
 

Jimrpg

Member
Not sure where to post this but thought I'd ask in here.

I recently got some Malware on my new PC, fresh outlook ads, which had ad popups all over my web browser. It was silly, I was downloading some wifi hotspot software. I think I got rid of it all manually by checking through task manager and uninstalling programs and my PC seems to be back to normal. But I can't be sure I got rid of all of it. My PC games performance such as The Witcher 3 hasn't been affected.

Should a install a anti malware program to check? If so which one? Do you guys use antivirus/malware programs?
 

dmix90

Member
So I'm going to install my new stuff today but I have a question, the msi 980ti, do I need to connect it up with two lots of power cables to it?

The instructions are a little ambiguous as it says connect a 6/8 pin connector so do I connect both a 6 pin and an 8 pin connector?
You need to connect both 6 pin and 8 pin. This beast needs all the power you can give to it ;)
 

Jzero

Member
Not sure where to post this but thought I'd ask in here.

I recently got some Malware on my new PC, fresh outlook ads, which had ad popups all over my web browser. It was silly, I was downloading some wifi hotspot software. I think I got rid of it all manually by checking through task manager and uninstalling programs and my PC seems to be back to normal. But I can't be sure I got rid of all of it. My PC games performance such as The Witcher 3 hasn't been affected.

Should a install a anti malware program to check? If so which one? Do you guys use antivirus/malware programs?

https://www.malwarebytes.org/mwb-download/
 

Grassy

Member
I feel ya.... My preparations for MGSV just failed miserably. Ground Zeroes works fine i guess so there is some hope. I tried this bios tweak but i think it changed nothing for me :( or i am testing W3 in the spot which is not affected by it. Funny thing is that once i somehow glitched W3 that it worked as intended until i restarted game. I think i just disabled both Hairworks with its AA and post process AA in some magic order, lol. Other guy from tom's hardware thread noticed that performance drops similar to w3 in games which use nvidia gameworks stuff and i can confirm that its the case for me as well in unity and fc4. I tried other games with gameworks but there were not such drastic performance decreases. So maybe only specific version of gameworks library is affected. Probably nvidia driver issue, but its kinda strange for me that they need to optimize their drivers for specific chipset i though this kind of stuff should be standartized across all boards.

Yeah this is exactly what I find strange and why I think there may be a BIOS issue of some sort. I'm no expert however, and a lot of signs do point to an Nvidia issue as well.
What videocards are you using? I have 980 Ti's so I can get away with one card for MGS V @ 1440p/60fps, so I'm "lucky" in that way.

I was half a mind to go with an X99 system as it's a mature platform etc, but oh well that's the price you pay to be an early adopter I suppose.
However, I will say that single card performance is excellent and right on par with what I expected, and my 6700K is stable at 4.7ghz/1.315v so it's not all bad :p

Worst upgrade of my life so far xD. My trusty six years old PSU died the day i brought new motherboard and cpu home ( he KNEW!!! ) so i was forced to get a new one and........... it was dead on arrival. Gladly second one was ok and still works but yeah.

Ha, well I wouldn't call it the worst upgrade ever for me, but I've never installed and uninstalled so many fucking video card drivers and BIOS updates and done as many benchmarks in different configurations as I've done the last few weeks trying to sort this out :p
I'm just glad I made it through the system-building gauntlet and that all my components are alive and well, it's just drivers/BIOS stuff that need to be sorted.
 

RGM79

Member
You need to connect both 6 pin and 8 pin. This beast needs all the power you can give to it ;)

Awesome, thanks.

Actually the MSI GTX 980 Ti takes two 8 pin PCI-E power connectors. As dmix90 says, the graphics card needs to get as much power as can be given. Ideally you should connect two 8 pin PCI-E power cables to the graphics card.

To explain the "6/8 connector" thing, due to the backward compatible design of the connector 6 pin PCI-E power cables will fit in connectors meant for 8 pin PCI-E cables as well. That's why the instructions say "6/8 pin connector", both will fit and are compatible, but using 6 pin power cables are not really recommended if you do have two of the 8 pin PCI-E cables to use instead.

Hi guys. I'm looking to build my own PC for the first time. I have some ideas of what I want. I'm just not sure on which parts/brands to go with. I also don't plan on overclocking. I'm looking to buy parts from good brands that won't fail on me anytime soon -- I plan on using this rig for at least 4 years. Gonna be buying everything from Amazon (first choice) and Newegg. My budget is around $800-850.

What I'd like:

Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core or better
GTX 970 (an r9 390 would work too. Although I'll be gaming no higher than 1080p)
1 TB Hard Drive (or maybe a 250gb SSD if it's essential. I don't install many applications/games at a time so I'd be fine with that capacity. I'd prefer having only one storage device)
8 GB Ram

Not sure on the motherboard/power supply/case. A PCPartPicker list of everything would be great and much appreciated!

Don't need: Mouse, Keyboard, Monitor, Optical Drive, Headphones, Windows

How does this look?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.74 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin ECO2 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX TS 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $849.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-30 06:25 EDT-0400

If you don't like the look of the case, you can definitely pick something else. Wasn't sure if you meant $800~850 before or after rebates. If you meant before rebates, then we can pare back the parts list a bit by going with a 1TB hard drive or 250GB SSD, cheaper but still decent power supply, etc.

While I obviously can't guarantee every part in that list will be 100% reliable, most of the parts have good to excellent professional and user reviews. The Mushkin RAM is at a low price, but I guess I should tell you that it doesn't have any reviews. I think Mushkin is a reliable brand, though. If you don't mind spending a bit more, then there's this 1x8GB kit of Crucial 1600MHz RAM for $39, with absolutely stellar average of over 4.5/5 stars on both Newegg and Amazon after ~1300 user reviews.
 

dmix90

Member
Yeah this is exactly what I find strange and why I think there may be a BIOS issue of some sort. I'm no expert however, and a lot of signs do point to an Nvidia issue as well.
What videocards are you using? I have 980 Ti's so I can get away with one card for MGS V @ 1440p/60fps, so I'm "lucky" in that way.

I was half a mind to go with an X99 system as it's a mature platform etc, but oh well that's the price you pay to be an early adopter I suppose.
However, I will say that single card performance is excellent and right on par with what I expected, and my 6700K is stable at 4.7ghz/1.315v so it's not all bad :p
Using infamous 970's. Single 970 can provide rock solid 60fps at 1080p......but i want a part of that 1440p DSR pie as well :p. Luckily with SLI regardless if its broken atm or not i am at 60fps stable at 1440.
But "How NVIDIA Will Enhance the Latest Chapter in the ‘Metal Gear’ Franchise". So if there is gameworks and its broken then i am f*cked.

Currently at 4.6ghz/~1.315v. Compared to my previous fx8120@4.6ghz its like night and day, close to 2x performance increase :p. Everything is great but this sli issue.
 

MKUltra

Member
I've just bought an i5 4690k, GTX 970 and SDD and will be upgrading from an AMD CPU/GPU, software wise the easiest way of getting everything going to use a fresh install of Windows because of the drivers ect?
 

The Boat

Member
Buy a chromebook or some other cheap netbook for media/browsing/working on and a midrange desktop gaming PC

It's still cheaper than a gaming laptop and the desktop pc will still CRUSH the gaming laptop in games performance.
Yeah I'll do that. I have an iPad, but sometimes you just need a PC, especially for engineering software.
 

Arkanius

Member
Wow, there are lots of posts here, so I'll only respond to the last one. The interest in this subject is higher then we thought. The primary evolution of the benchmark is for our own internal testing, so it's pretty important that it be representative of the gameplay. To keep things clean, I'm not going to make very many comments on the concept of bias and fairness, as it can completely go down a rat hole.

Certainly I could see how one might see that we are working closer with one hardware vendor then the other, but the numbers don't really bare that out. Since we've started, I think we've had about 3 site visits from NVidia, 3 from AMD, and 2 from Intel ( and 0 from Microsoft, but they never come visit anyone ;(). Nvidia was actually a far more active collaborator over the summer then AMD was, If you judged from email traffic and code-checkins, you'd draw the conclusion we were working closer with Nvidia rather than AMD wink.gif As you've pointed out, there does exist a marketing agreement between Stardock (our publisher) for Ashes with AMD. But this is typical of almost every major PC game I've ever worked on (Civ 5 had a marketing agreement with NVidia, for example). Without getting into the specifics, I believe the primary goal of AMD is to promote D3D12 titles as they have also lined up a few other D3D12 games.

If you use this metric, however, given Nvidia's promotions with Unreal (and integration with Gameworks) you'd have to say that every Unreal game is biased, not to mention virtually every game that's commonly used as a benchmark since most of them have a promotion agreement with someone. Certainly, one might argue that Unreal being an engine with many titles should give it particular weight, and I wouldn't disagree. However, Ashes is not the only game being developed with Nitrous. It is also being used in several additional titles right now, the only announced one being the Star Control reboot. (Which I am super excited about! But that's a completely other topic wink.gif).

Personally, I think one could just as easily make the claim that we were biased toward Nvidia as the only 'vendor' specific code is for Nvidia where we had to shutdown async compute. By vendor specific, I mean a case where we look at the Vendor ID and make changes to our rendering path. Curiously, their driver reported this feature was functional but attempting to use it was an unmitigated disaster in terms of performance and conformance so we shut it down on their hardware. As far as I know, Maxwell doesn't really have Async Compute so I don't know why their driver was trying to expose that. The only other thing that is different between them is that Nvidia does fall into Tier 2 class binding hardware instead of Tier 3 like AMD which requires a little bit more CPU overhead in D3D12, but I don't think it ended up being very significant. This isn't a vendor specific path, as it's responding to capabilities the driver reports.

From our perspective, one of the surprising things about the results is just how good Nvidia's DX11 perf is. But that's a very recent development, with huge CPU perf improvements over the last month. Still, DX12 CPU overhead is still far far better on Nvidia, and we haven't even tuned it as much as DX11. The other surprise is that of the min frame times having the 290X beat out the 980 Ti (as reported on Ars Techinica). Unlike DX11, minimum frame times are mostly an application controlled feature so I was expecting it to be close to identical. This would appear to be GPU side variance, rather then software variance. We'll have to dig into this one.

I suspect that one thing that is helping AMD on GPU performance is D3D12 exposes Async Compute, which D3D11 did not. Ashes uses a modest amount of it, which gave us a noticeable perf improvement. It was mostly opportunistic where we just took a few compute tasks we were already doing and made them asynchronous, Ashes really isn't a poster-child for advanced GCN features.

Our use of Async Compute, however, pales with comparisons to some of the things which the console guys are starting to do. Most of those haven't made their way to the PC yet, but I've heard of developers getting 30% GPU performance by using Async Compute. Too early to tell, of course, but it could end being pretty disruptive in a year or so as these GCN built and optimized engines start coming to the PC. I don't think Unreal titles will show this very much though, so likely we'll have to wait to see. Has anyone profiled Ark yet?

In the end, I think everyone has to give AMD alot of credit for not objecting to our collaborative effort with Nvidia even though the game had a marketing deal with them. They never once complained about it, and it certainly would have been within their right to do so. (Complain, anyway, we would have still done it, wink.gif)

--
P.S. There is no war of words between us and Nvidia. Nvidia made some incorrect statements, and at this point they will not dispute our position if you ask their PR. That is, they are not disputing anything in our blog. I believe the initial confusion was because Nvidia PR was putting pressure on us to disable certain settings in the benchmark, when we refused, I think they took it a little too personally.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1569897/...ingularity-dx12-benchmarks/1200#post_24356995

Another post by Oxide saying that Nvidia had to work with them to disable Async Computing for their GPUs makes me worry.
I doubt Pascal will come with an architecture tailored for DX12 since GPU architectures are well planned in advanced.

AMD unleashed Mantle, Vulkan and forced Microsoft to pump out DX12.

I still have an AMD card that aged super gracefully (280X) but I bought a G-Sync monitor and I'm feeling regret already of my future GPU upgrade :(
 

Wag

Member
Yes, you cant activate a fresh 10 install with 7/8 key.

Do what i did, install 8, no need to further download updates or upgrade to 8.1. Just go straight to 10 upgrade via the downloaded iso file. Took me about 20 minutes with SSD and USB3.0 from start to finish.

I can't install 8. Once you install 10 you invalidate your Win 8 key don't you? (I purchased Win 8 Pro). I thought you were supposed to be able to just install Win10 once you installed it and then the key transferred over.

None of this makes sense. Eventually Win8 will be phased out so you'll have to be able to do fresh installs of Win10 anyways. I'm suppose to own Win10.

Fuck you Microsoft.
 

Maiden Voyage

Gold™ Member
I can't install 8. Once you install 10 you invalidate your Win 8 key don't you? (I purchased Win 8 Pro). I thought you were supposed to be able to just install Win10 once you installed it and then the key transferred over.

None of this makes sense. Eventually Win8 will be phased out so you'll have to be able to do fresh installs of Win10 anyways. I'm suppose to own Win10.

Fuck you Microsoft.

You can use your Windows 8 key on Windows 8. From there you can upgrade to 10. They won't give you a Windows 10 key when you upgrade. Upgrading does not invalidate the key.
 

Wag

Member
Eh. OK. I guess I'll give that a try. If not I guess I'll try calling back Microsoft. They're telling me I need to buy a new copy of Windows 10 now.
 

Daffy Duck

Member
So things have gone ok apart from my monitor has a stuck red pixel :/

Seemed fine when I was installing windows as I didn't notice it but on google home page and explorer boom there it is, hopefully I'll get it swapped.

Also the secondary sata drive doesn't show in windows it it did when it was time to install windows.
 

LilJoka

Member
Eh. OK. I guess I'll give that a try. If not I guess I'll try calling back Microsoft. They're telling me I need to buy a new copy of Windows 10 now.

You are right, once you upgrade the win 7/8 system to 10, the key is also upgraded and will only work with 10, unless you use the built in rollback (downgrade) from within Windows 10 within 30 days of upgrading. If you have fresh installed after upgrading to 10, there's no going back.

You are going to have huge difficulty in getting MS to get you activated for free after replacing the board i suspect.
 
would paying 80-90 dollars to go from a 80 plus bronze to a 80 plus platimum or gold be worth the cost? I want an energy effecient computer and have no plan to overclock.

thinking of getting an i5 with a geforce 970 card (thinking of getting a 2gb instead). I would consider an ssd as well if they are so much more effecient that they justify the cost (or if they are much more reliable).
 
would paying 80-90 dollars to go from a 80 plus bronze to a 80 plus platimum or gold be worth the cost? I want an energy effecient computer and have no plan to overclock.

thinking of getting an i5 with a geforce 970 card (thinking of getting a 2gb instead). I would consider an ssd as well if they are so much more effecient that they justify the cost (or if they are much more reliable).

Do you already have the 80+ bronze? Or are you comparing for a future purchase, in which case what models are you comparing?
 

Wag

Member
You are right, once you upgrade the win 7/8 system to 10, the key is also upgraded and will only work with 10, unless you use the built in rollback (downgrade) from within Windows 10 within 30 days of upgrading. If you have fresh installed after upgrading to 10, there's no going back.

You are going to have huge difficulty in getting MS to get you activated for free after replacing the board i suspect.

That's not how it's supposed to work tho- especially if you BOUGHT your copy of Windows 7 or 8. Your Windows 10 key is supposed to transfer over regardless of how many hardware changes you make. Otherwise what's the point?

Anyways, I did a clean install of Windows 8 Pro and then I upgraded to Windows 10 from there and I have an activated key now. Although I suspect after a year that procedure won't work anymore and MS will want everyone who did the free upgrade to buy a new copy of Win 10 every time they make a major hardware upgrade or do a clean install.

People are going to shit a brick when they find that out.
 
I got a refurbished Crucial 960GB M500 for $190 from their site a couple weeks ago. I usually wouldn't be refurbished but I got it as an application/game drive so if it were to fail it wouldn't be too big a deal. So far so good though.
 

DMTripper

Member
Do any of you guys have any thoughts on this: http://www.freshtechsolutions.co.uk...600mhz-gtx-970-4gb-galaxy-r-windows-8-pc.html

or this.it has a i5 a 4gb graphics card and windows 10:http://www.freshtechsolutions.co.uk...70-4gb-zalman-z11-computer-windows-10-pc.html

Seems quite reasonable as it has a 4g graphics card and comes with a ssd.

I have £600-650 to spend including OS, and being a console n00b i need something easy :D I have had some great advice on here before but looking at all options before i blow all my money. I dont want to build my own as i just know i'll fuck something up!
 
So the past two weekends I've been out of town so I shut my newly built gaming PC sown since I wouldn't be using it. Both times I came back to it powered on and sitting at the Windows 10 login screen. I was just shutting it down in Windows, I didn't turn off the switch on the PSU either time. It's not a huge deal, and I could just make sure I flip the power switch in the future, just curious if there was anything obvious for me to check first.
 

RGM79

Member
So the past two weekends I've been out of town so I shut my newly built gaming PC sown since I wouldn't be using it. Both times I came back to it powered on and sitting at the Windows 10 login screen. I was just shutting it down in Windows, I didn't turn off the switch on the PSU either time. It's not a huge deal, and I could just make sure I flip the power switch in the future, just curious if there was anything obvious for me to check first.

Check your BIOS menu for power settings. One of the settings should be called "AC power" or something similar, it controls what the computer should do if it detects a loss of power from the AC outlet. I'm not totally sure, but I'd think that the default option would be to stay off..
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Is this the right thread to ask about adjustable trays for your keyboard?

I've got my PC hooked up to a TV and use it from a futon. I found a board to put on my lap that fits a wireless keyboard and mouse on it, but after a while it made my legs really sore and I had to place it on an ottoman that's a tad bit too low to the ground to be comfortable, and I can't put my feet directly under it. I need a tray that I can adjust to about waist level and slide directly underneath the futon. Anyone had experience with this?
 

yoshizzle

Member
How does this look?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.74 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin ECO2 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX TS 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $849.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-30 06:25 EDT-0400

If you don't like the look of the case, you can definitely pick something else. Wasn't sure if you meant $800~850 before or after rebates. If you meant before rebates, then we can pare back the parts list a bit by going with a 1TB hard drive or 250GB SSD, cheaper but still decent power supply, etc.

While I obviously can't guarantee every part in that list will be 100% reliable, most of the parts have good to excellent professional and user reviews. The Mushkin RAM is at a low price, but I guess I should tell you that it doesn't have any reviews. I think Mushkin is a reliable brand, though. If you don't mind spending a bit more, then there's this 1x8GB kit of Crucial 1600MHz RAM for $39, with absolutely stellar average of over 4.5/5 stars on both Newegg and Amazon after ~1300 user reviews.

Thank you for the build, RGM79. The look of the case doesn't matter to me. As long as the PC doesn't overheat ;) In addition to Amazon/Newegg, I am able to buy parts from Microcenter. I was also informed of a good deal on a i5-4590 processor at Microcenter ($159.99) by a kind redditor, so I'll probably go with that. But yeah, one of my main priorities is to buy parts from reliable brands that have a lot of great reviews like the Crucial ram you mentioned. Was also thinking about going with an H97M motherboard. That's a good deal on the PSU, but I think I'd rather go with one that's semi-modular.

My budget is $850 after rebates, although I don't mind spending a little more than that for quality parts.
 

Data West

coaches in the WNBA
I want to ask you guys a question. Not really about building one or anything but more a preference/worth my money thing. I just finished building my new PC with i7-14790, 16 gb ram, and a gtx 970.

should i look at 4k monitors or am i still not at a point that i would gain that much from it?
 
I'm having a problem with my bluetooth mouse on my new desktop. Whenever the processor is working decently hard... well, it feels as if I'm getting a framerate drop whenever I use my mouse to turn the camera, but if I move with the keyboard, it's perfectly smooth.

As far as I can tell, the mouse pointer itself is never jumpy, it only happens when I turn some kind of in-game camera. If I plug the mouse in (it can be used either wirelessly or wired), the problem goes away.

I'm using a USB bluetooth adapter.

I know that I shouldn't really be using a wireless mouse for gaming anyway, but i want to bring this desktop to college with me, and there's only one spot in my dorm room where I think it would fit. In order to put it there, because of how the room is laid out, I would need to use a bluetooth keyboard and mouse.
 

pirata

Member
Today, when I got up and turned on my computer, it did a disk check that lasted hours. My PC has been slowing down and getting errors for well over a year now. I haven't touched the insides of my computer in the over four years since I built it with the help of the 2011 PC thread. It's time for an upgrade.


This is what my PC has in it right now:

Graphics: EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti Superclocked 1024MB GDDR5 PCI-Express 2.0 Graphics Card - Lifetime Warranty 01G-P3-1563-AR

Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast Series 750-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply Compatible with Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD platforms 750TX v2

Motherboard: ASRock P67 Extreme4 B3 Intel P67 ATX DDR3 2133 Motherboard

RAM: 1 x G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-

HDD: 1 x SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 ST2000DL004 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive

Case: 1 x Fractal Design Define R3 Black ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case

So, the main thing I want to do right this second is get an SSD and a new harddrive, as well as some RAM. I might break down and get a new graphics card as well. Maybe.

So, my questions for GAF at this moment are:

1. To upgrade the RAM, all I need to do is order another two of those RAM sticks and stick them next to their brothers on the motherboard, right? If so, it's only about $30 on Newegg, so that would be super cheap and easy.

2. How should I go about upgrading my storage? I definitely want an SSD, but I probably want to get another large hard drive to store a lot of data. In order to get my system working off of an SSD, do I just insert the SSD, use my old Windows 7 DVD to install Windows on the SSD (assuming I could use the same serial code again), and I can still access all of the data on my old hard drive, no problem?

3. If I get another large HDD, should I clone over my data from the old and slow HDD? How should a person with limited technical experience go about this?

Any other advice for someone upgrading for the first time (and probably should have years ago)?
 
I want to ask you guys a question. Not really about building one or anything but more a preference/worth my money thing. I just finished building my new PC with i7-14790, 16 gb ram, and a gtx 970.

should i look at 4k monitors or am i still not at a point that i would gain that much from it?

I wouldn't go 4K with that system, especially with the VRAM limitations of the GTX 970. Honestly, I wouldn't go 4K even with a beefier system. I personally don't think we are quite there yet, but I appreciate framerate over resolution. I just bought 2 GTX 980tis just so I felt comfortable enough to go to 1440p.
 
Any way to get this under $1000 and with an SSD? I am flexible on the CPU but was hoping to keep the GTX 970.




PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Xigmatek Dark Knight SD1483 Frostbourne 90.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($115.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury White 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($48.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1140.40
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-30 20:23 EDT-0400
 

kennah

Member
Any way to get this under $1000 and with an SSD? I am flexible on the CPU but was hoping to keep the GTX 970.




PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Xigmatek Dark Knight SD1483 Frostbourne 90.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($115.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury White 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($48.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1140.40
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-30 20:23 EDT-0400
A cheaper PSU and CPU fan would do that easily. Also cut the sp120. Those are for water radiators. Only add fans if your case is too loud or too hot.

You could drop down to a 4690k, or even a 6600k and have it be cheaper.
 

AsfaeksBR

Member
Ok, I finally decided that I'll rejoin PC-GAF. But I need some clarifications.

This is what I plan on biulding:

i5-4590 Haswell 6MB
GeForce GTX960 4Gb GDDR5 Zotac
Gigabyte MicroATX GA-H97M-D3H
2x HyperX Fury 4Gb 1866MHz
Seagate SATA III Barracuda
500W 80 Plus Gold (included with the Hadron)
EVGA Hadron Air Mini ITX

So, here are my questions:

- Will this motherboard support this configuration without a problem?
- Is 500W enough?
- Should I put a cooler, like an H60?
- Will it all fit in the EVGA Hadron?

PS: No, I don't plan on changing this configration. I live in Brazil and the dollar is more expensive than ever, so I don't wanna overspend.

Thanks!
 

Wag

Member
OK, finally got a Win8 UEFI install going after trying all day to figure it out. I'm currently running my 5820k @ 4.3GHz 1.25v. on air. Windows 10. Seems to be OK right now. A little bit better than my previous Ivy Bridge. Not much. I wouldn't have bothered had the motherboard not died.

Only thing is, on this motherboard I can't get my external SATA drive bay to see it for some reason.

Anyways. Once I see if it's stable I'll see if I can bump it up a bit more.
 
Woot bought a new SSD. Can I plug it in, unplug my old hdd, install windows then plug the hdd back in and format it? Will that work.

Might be better to plug in the new SSD in addition to your existing HDD and clone things over if the SSD is large enough. Faster, and easier. Hopefully your SSD at least came with a licence to use some disk cloning tool!
 

Cycloptis

Member
Hi everyone,

I'm looking to target 1440p gaming with the recent and upcoming big releases (Witcher 3, MGS5, Fallout 4, Mirror's Edge, etc.) and I've got the current build:

i7-2600K (stock @ 3.4ghz)
8GB DDR3-1600
MSI Geforce 570GTX Twin Frozr II
Corsair 800W PSU
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

I was going to do a full build between this year and next but it's looking like Skylake and DDR4 have yet to hit their stride, and I'm itching to get back up to speed if not all at once then in some measurable way.

Thus I've been looking to go for a 980 Ti, and have been eyeing the MSI model (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127889&_ga=1.7187062.558433862.1440646344).

Does this seem like a reasonable step? Also, is there any consensus as to which manufacturer makes the best 980 Ti? I don't intend to do any overclocking and I'd prefer a quieter card, as my setup right now is quite quiet as is. That's why I'm gravitating towards MSI.
 

RGM79

Member
Hi everyone, I'm looking to target 1440p gaming with the recent and upcoming big releases (Witcher 3, MGS5, Fallout 4, Mirror's Edge, etc.) and I've got the current build:

i7-2600K (stock @ 3.4ghz)
8GB DDR3-1600
MSI Geforce 570GTX Twin Frozr II
Corsair 800W PSU
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO

I was going to do a full build between this year and next but it's looking like Skylake and DDR4 have yet to hit their stride, and I'm itching to get back up to speed if not all at once then in some measurable way.

Thus I've been looking to go for a 980 Ti, and have been eyeing the MSI model (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127889&_ga=1.7187062.558433862.1440646344).

Does this seem like a reasonable step? Also, is there any consensus as to which manufacturer makes the best 980 Ti? I don't intend to do any overclocking and I'd prefer a quieter card, as my setup right now is quite quiet as is. That's why I'm gravitating towards MSI.

Well it's hard to go wrong with any of the GTX 980 Ti models currently available, but it seems (from this Techreport comparison of various GTX 980 Ti cards) that the Asus Strix triple-fan model is actually one of the most potent models you can get. It's a far cry from the Asus Strix GTX 970/980 twin-fan models which were midrange at best. That said, the MSI Gaming 6G model is the quietest.

Ok, I finally decided that I'll rejoin PC-GAF. But I need some clarifications. This is what I plan on biulding:

i5-4590 Haswell 6MB
GeForce GTX960 4Gb GDDR5 Zotac
Gigabyte MicroATX GA-H97M-D3H
2x HyperX Fury 4Gb 1866MHz
Seagate SATA III Barracuda
500W 80 Plus Gold (included with the Hadron)
EVGA Hadron Air Mini ITX

So, here are my questions:
- Will this motherboard support this configuration without a problem?
- Is 500W enough?
- Should I put a cooler, like an H60?
- Will it all fit in the EVGA Hadron?
PS: No, I don't plan on changing this configration. I live in Brazil and the dollar is more expensive than ever, so I don't wanna overspend. Thanks!

  1. Yes, the motherboard will support all of those parts. However, there are a few things you should know. It's pointless to get 1866MHz RAM, as the i5 4590 and H97 chipset only technically support 1600MHz at best and the 1866MHz RAM will automatically downclock to 1600MHz by default. You might be able to get it a bit higher depending on what extra options the motherboard has (I am able to run my 1333MHz RAM at 1400MHz on an H81 motherboard but I wouldn't count on anything too high). Maybe save some money by looking for 1600MHz RAM instead.
  2. Yes, 500 watts is enough.
  3. No, a cooler isn't really required especially as the i5 4590 cannot be overclocked and I doubt it'll run too hot. A Corsair H60 is overkill and not really needed.
  4. No, the H97 micro ATX motherboard you chose is too large and will not fit in the Hadron mini ITX case. See here for what the names mini ITX and micro ATX mean in terms of size.

Any way to get this under $1000 and with an SSD? I am flexible on the CPU but was hoping to keep the GTX 970.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Xigmatek Dark Knight SD1483 Frostbourne 90.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($115.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury White 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($48.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($70.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.99 @ NCIX US)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1140.40
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-30 20:23 EDT-0400

Here's my version of your build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Xigmatek Dark Knight SD1483 Frostbourne 90.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($83.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.56 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec HCG M 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $996.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-31 02:16 EDT-0400
  • Changed the i7 4790K for the i5 4690K. The only major difference between them is hyperthreading (not a big deal since both are quad core processors and few games will require 8 threads) and clock speed, which doesn't mean much since both are overclockable and can change speeds. Just about any professional review you'll find will note nearly identical performance for the two processors when it comes to gaming framerate.
  • Went with slightly cheaper but still more than adequate motherboard, RAM, and hard drive. There's virtually no difference in performance with these cheaper parts, especially the RAM and hard drive which are still 1866MHz and 7200RPM.
  • I changed out the overpriced Corsair RM750 power supply for the Antec HCG-M 750 watt model. Same functionality and wattage, all that changes is lower energy efficiency (has nothing to do with performance and the money/electricity saved is not a big deal unless you're an environmentalist) and a few modular cables.
  • With the money saved, I was able to add the Crucial BX100 250GB SSD and have the build stay just a hair under $1000 after rebate.
 
Is Seasonic S12II-520 (520W) a good choice for a i5-4690K, 8GB RAM, ASUS GTX 970, 1x SSD, 1x BDROM? I don't plan to upgrade for the next couple of years and I need a stable and reliable PSU that will handle 4690K and 970 down the line when I OC them (eventually)
JohnnyGuru gave it a glowing review...
 

UrgentPS

Neo Member
Hi all. About to order my second video editing PC for the office, anyone who wants to do a final check if everything looks alright? It's an updated build of the PC I bought 2 years ago (3930K, 32GB RAM, GTX Titan, Corsair 650D, Noctua D14) which is still serving me very well.

The new build:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-5820K 3,3 GHz (3,6 GHz Turbo Boost)
Heatsink: Noctua NH-D15,
Mobo: MSI X99A SLI PLUS/USB3.1 (USB3.1 is a big pro for me)
Memory: Corsair 32 GB DDR4-2666 Quad-Kit,
SSD1: Samsung 850 EVO, 250 GB SSD (for OS)
SSD2: Samsung 850 EVO, 1 TB SSD (demanding 4K projects)
HDD: 2x Western Digital Blue, 1 TB in RAID0 (for less demanding 1080p projects)
Video Card: ASUS GTX980TI-6GD5 (for cuda performance in After Effects, doing lots of animations)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black
Power Supply: Cooler Master V750S
OS: Windows 10 Pro
Extra: ASUS USB 3.1 Type-A Card

With warranty, assembly etc. this thing will cost me around €3.000,-. Which frankly is the max of my budget.

The only thing I'm not sure about is the WD Blue 1TB. They don't seem te have the 2TB and two blacks cost a bit more. Currently I have one 2TB Black which suffers greatly under 4K projects (or 1080p RAW projects). Can I expect a performance boost with two blues in RAID0?

Thanks in advance guys!
 

ILoveBish

Member
Went to frys and got a replacement motherboard. It seems like my ram is very picky. I got the Z170-AR this time, and first boot, booted no issue with just cpu/ram/gpu in. Once i plugged everything else in, i got black screen again. Luckily, this board has a MEMTEST button right on there, during bad boots, you press it, and it cycles different settings till it boots. It worked just fine and i'm up and running now. Will be returning the z170-k to TD due to the broken ram slots.
 
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