Cute Dragon Here
Member
Hmm, what is the 620W PSU's model, and how old is it?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Hmm, what is the 620W PSU's model, and how old is it?
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Thanks! Will order the parts now
(Have no clue about OC, will need to read up on that)
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Thanks! Will order the parts now
(Have no clue about OC, will need to read up on that)
Whoa, don't rush things! You might want to see if you can go with things that might be a bit more optimized. Sometimes my recommendations might be a tad skimpy.
depends on the PSU model I guess, as Noivern said.
Also make sure you like the glossy look of that S340, it's very glossy looks like lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65-pqVTykMc
And it seems it only comes with 1 fan on the back? I'm not sure
It comes with two fans for sure.
Here is the PSU I have, purchased in 2011: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031
Magicman103
Member
Thanks for all the info! I will probably change some things around then.
Yes the video card is from my 2012 build I'm using right now. I will use it in the new machine until Pascal hits. And yes I think I do need a Wifi adaptor as I will be using it far away from my router.
Can anyone comment on this build?
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xPdWnQ
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xPdWnQ/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($58.99 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $896.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-27 17:21 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xPdWnQ
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/xPdWnQ/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($329.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($58.99 @ B&H)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $896.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-27 17:21 EDT-0400
ethomaz
Banned
Trying to find the best mobo with upped budget...
~$159 (R$1179 here) Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5
~$149 (R$1319 here) ASUS Z170-A
~$145 (R$1301 here) Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3
These 3 are pretty similar in features with Gigabyte using Intel USB 3.1 and ASUS using ASMedia USB 3.1.
Gigabyte audio is ALC1150 while ASUS is ALC892.
But looking better prices for these I found this one...
~$200 (R$1599 here) ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO
Well what I can say... everytime I dig I found something lol
I really don't like MSI... ASUS or Gigabyte are my options.
PS. I dropped GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 due Killer NIC... I want Intel one.
~$159 (R$1179 here) Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5
~$149 (R$1319 here) ASUS Z170-A
~$145 (R$1301 here) Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3
These 3 are pretty similar in features with Gigabyte using Intel USB 3.1 and ASUS using ASMedia USB 3.1.
Gigabyte audio is ALC1150 while ASUS is ALC892.
But looking better prices for these I found this one...
~$200 (R$1599 here) ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO
Well what I can say... everytime I dig I found something lol
I really don't like MSI... ASUS or Gigabyte are my options.
PS. I dropped GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 due Killer NIC... I want Intel one.
roadrunn3r
Member
You don't need a Z170 if you aren't going to get a K cpu later. (overclockable) So you can save 20$ which in turn you can spend on getting 16GB of RAM which is a better choice.
As for the SSD I would spend a bit more and get a 850 EVO or at least a Sandisk Ultra II.
I am still too much of a chicken to do this... One day, until then I will continue to use the corsair closed systems.
Exploratory
Banned
Hello all I recently received a used laptop from a friend and I discovered the PC he gave me has a pirated version of Windows 7. I'd like to not run a pirate version so what's the cheapest way I can get a legitimate copy of Windows for gaming?
Sweet. I wouldn't even know where to start with research. Recently started following some hardcore custom loop builders and while it's cool to look at, it just seems super expensive, risky and complicated.
I'll probably get an AIO for the CPU after pascal which should conclude my upgrades for this year. The noctua is just so huge and unattractive to look at in a windowed case. A water cooling solution should be way less stressing on the MB too, I really want to keep it until the next tangible jump in CPUs lol
Might try your luck in our Buy/Sell thread or over at reddit
https://m.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap
What motherboard would I get instead?
Young Magus
Junior Member
Any lowprofile graphics cards out there that are an upgrade over my 750 ti that can work in this dell desktop?
TheCanisDirus
Member
From what I've seen a popular option is picking up two 140mm fans for the front to use as intakes and use the stock 120mms for exhaust... One on top one on the back. Gives you some positive pressure which is good for keeping dust out!
camequipped
Member
Hey guys is 620w enough to power a GTX980ti? Currently have a GTX970, i7 6700, 3 SSDs and one SSHD. I've used a few psu calculator over the Internet and looks like it suffice but just wanted to make sure.
My PSU is the antec 620m hcg. Cheers
My PSU is the antec 620m hcg. Cheers
jackpottest
Member
So Doom is coming out and my 560ti doesn't really cut it. Would I be crazy buying a GTX 970 now? Are new cards coming out soon that I should wait for?
Celcius
°Temp. member
I want to do this some day. I've been air cooled for the past 12 years.
Lockjaw333
Member
I decided to spend a bit more and go for a 480 GB SSD, and I have to say it was 100% worth it. I bought a PNY CS1311. Its going for $110 right now on Amazon.
Right now I have my OS, BF4, Star Wars BF, Division, Witcher 3 and Dark Souls 3 installed and I still have about 100 GB left. OS boots in seconds, and load times in games is so fast I don't have time to read the loading screen tips anymore.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Ahaha! I guess you're mostly set now.
You can get away with a H170 motherboard and DDR4-2133 RAM if you don't need very fast RAM at all and will never be considering overclocking the CPU. Usually, for the same price level, a H170 board will offer you more features compared to a Z170 board. Do you think you'll be needing the DDR4-3000 RAM? That works best with regard to productivity and frame times in memory-sensitive games.
Consider going with a 2x8 kit too. Even though 2x4 works, 2x8 should enable you to do pretty much anything with your computer without worrying about memory usage.
You might be able to make up the performance difference with a mild OC with this video card to catch up with the XFX, perhaps even more (video cards in general overclock well).
That PSU should be able to power up the whole rig as is, but it will not give you a comfortable power margin on overclocking the video card. I'd be more comfortable with a 600W unit, to be honest.
If you don't plan on overclocking the video card, keep your original GPU and PSU choice.
Need that Wi-Fi adapter?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($72.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($49.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($299.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $874.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-27 23:28 EDT-0400
No, not at the moment. CPU performance stagnation can be seen as both a good thing and a bad thing at the same time. (Mind you, if you're on a laptop instead, they're still getting better.)
I wish I could buy unlocked i5s for i3 prices, and now I envy you.
Canklestank
Neo Member
I'm sure Microsoft appreciates this advice, but I don't understand it. How often do most people upgrade their motherboards? I would imagine by the time most people even thought about upgrading mobos, we'd be 2 Windows versions ahead, especially if they're upgrading now. Why not save that money and put it towards something else? Hell, if you buy from Reddit, you could upgrade every 6 months and still come out ahead.
opticalmace
Member
Helped my friend finish building his system (6700k based). Fun stuff when you can just give suggestions and leave him to mess with the wiring.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
This advice is more for so if you do end up changing the motherboard, perhaps because it's finally time for a CPU upgrade, or it's hosed and preferred a different motherboard later on, you'll be able to reuse the Windows licence. This should save a bit of cash if something does happen.
I'm just going with this advice because something happened to my current motherboard... in the interim period, while waiting for the replacement, I've been winging it with a different, much cheaper motherboard since I needed to keep a desktop running. It can't activate with an used OEM key for obvious reasons. I've always thought that, if the premium for a proper licence isn't much more than an OEM key, might as well go for it. (That seems to be the case in the USA; over here, OEM keys have a massive price advantage (~50% less), so OEMs are king.)
I still have to see if Windows 10 digital entitlements conferred to OEM keys are transferable, though. From the support page, it seems that all DEs are the same, and that should be possible (motherboard swaps are listed as an explicit "contact support" possibility)
Did you read the OP?
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Do you need a video card, just in case you also game?
It usually is a good idea to read the OP and get a plan on getting things done. Either way, I've set up a system that should afford you all the graphic design and video editing you want to do, within a $1000 budget.
Well within, if it's of any indication...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($300.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($66.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($49.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.28 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($38.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB (32/64-bit) ($108.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $722.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-28 00:35 EDT-0400
System should have plenty of CPU for all possible tasks you have mentioned, no matter if the app is lightly threaded or heavily threaded. The integrated graphics is likely more than good enough for your use, and it's just a video card upgrade away if you do game. Adjust plans accordingly if you have hardware preferences (like a larger ATX case, for example)
Also, that RAM is DDR4-2133. If you don't think you're hurting for cash, going Z170 and high-speed RAM (you need Z170 for running RAM beyond DDR4-2133 at their rated speed) helps a lot with productivity stuff, eliminating RAM bottlenecks, though it's not really too important. Probably a good idea to go straight to the DDR4-3000 camp if you do go Z170.
Would be also good to upgrade the PSU beyond what I've specified, since it's basically the bare minimum you should be expecting for a mATX rig.
Aruarian Reflection
Chauffeur de la gdlk
I'm new to overclocking and just want an easy overclock without the need to squeeze every drop of performance out. Currently my motherboard is running my DDR4-3000 at default 2133. Should I set my DDR4 RAM to 3000 mhz first with XMP and make sure the system is stable before adjusting the CPU? Also what stress programs are preferred?
PeskyToaster
Member
I'm in the same boat with my RAM. I enabled XMP in my BIOS last night and I got a boot error. Had to disable it to boot properly.
I'll add my earlier post with my specs.
After doing some googling there might be some updates I need to do.
I'll add my earlier post with my specs.
After doing some googling there might be some updates I need to do.
I can't speak for the 100R but I've used the 200R in two builds for a friend and family member and it's an excellent case. It's looks good and stays cool and quiet. I'm no expert but the build quality was a lot better than what I'd become accustom to. I've got an older Lian Li case and it's very plastic compared to the Corsair where everything is metal.
Keep in mind I haven't OC'ed using this case. I'm not sure where it stands compared with other cases that have extra fans in the top.
Yes, you should be fine.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Update your motherboard firmware to the very latest before anything else!
Is your motherboard a X99/Z170 chipset motherboard? If yes, try making use of the XMP profile in the RAM. If it works, the RAM should be proven stable, but you can always stress test using a combination of:
Getting into Windows in the first place and watching if anything errors out (seriously, flaky memory and/or CPU exposes easily) (Also, this is why you shouldn't overclock anything until you've done all needed installations)
IntelBurnTest (even the Standard test will dig out flaky memory and/or CPU quickly, but ideally you should use as much RAM as you can after closing all background non-driver apps.)
Prime95 (ditto, use custom Blend (select Blend, then custom), minimum FFT 256K and RAM usage 3/4 installed RAM - again, flaky memory and/or CPU will expose itself rather quickly, but for best results run for at least 6 hours, preferably 10 or more)
Memtest86(+) (run using default settings; usually 1 pass is enough, but if Memtest86, letting it run into completion (4 passes) should be very confident. Remember to turn on CPU processing in parallel to massively speed it up, if your motherboard isn't blacklisted.)
If the PC doesn't boot at the given XMP profile's default speed, timings, and voltage, try to do the exact same thing, but with manually set timings, but at this point it might be worth considering if:
The RAM might be faulty
Your CPU might have lost the memory controller lottery and run it a speed bin lower (usually RAM also has a secondary XMP for slightly slower speeds)
Cheaper Z170 motherboards might also not have their power traces sufficient for keeping high speed RAM in check
It's probably preferable to make sure the RAM is stable at the XMP timings before proceeding with the CPU overclock just so that the right party gets blamed when things do go wrong
SkyTurnsRed
Banned
Two things, forgive my ignorance.
1) is there a reason I shouldn't get an AMD graphics card? I'm going to go Freesync or G-Sync with my next upgrade, so consider that as well.
2) If I did go AMD, what are some good FreeSync monitor options?
1) is there a reason I shouldn't get an AMD graphics card? I'm going to go Freesync or G-Sync with my next upgrade, so consider that as well.
2) If I did go AMD, what are some good FreeSync monitor options?
I'm not sure what's available there, but that PSU isn't great for the price. I would recommend a Rosewill Capstone, if you can find them there. They're 80+ gold certified, manufactured by Super Flower, and the 550W model costs about $60 U.S.
What kind of components do you need to power? I can't imagine needing more than 500W for a single-GPU system.
Depends what card you're looking at but in general no
SkyTurnsRed
Banned
It'd be a higher end one, most likely. Can you elaborate though?
I'm resurrecting my old PC right now, but the ram I bought is incompatible apparently. Motherboard is a GA-P45T-ES3G, with Kingston Hyperx fury ram. The mobo supports DDR3 1.5v ram I'm pretty sure, but I've heard that there is some conflict with high density memory and certain old motherboards like mine.
I can still take the ram back to the shop and exchange it with something else, but what exactly would I look for to make sure its compatible?
I can still take the ram back to the shop and exchange it with something else, but what exactly would I look for to make sure its compatible?
opticalmace
Member
What exact ram was it? How did you conclude that it's incompatible?
Im saying there's no inherant reason to avoid all AMD cards, their drivers have been pretty reliable for a while now. It really just depends what sort of price range you're looking at
HyperX FURY Black 4GB DDR3-1600MHz CL10 DIMM
part: HX316C10FB/4
I know its a compatibility issue because the computer just gives me the 1-1-1-1 beep code on startup and there is no POST, ram works fine in my main rig. I looked it up and this is a known issue.
Just bumping here. The PSU in question is this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371031
ethomaz
Banned
The mobo undecision continues...
I was about to buy the ASUS Z170-A at R$1228.
When I found the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 at R$1079 (I'm waiting a reply from the guy about discounts).
Edit - OMG the guy dropped the price for the Gaming 5 to R$998... it is almost the price I had for Gaming 3 before.
I was about to buy the ASUS Z170-A at R$1228.
When I found the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 at R$1079 (I'm waiting a reply from the guy about discounts).
Edit - OMG the guy dropped the price for the Gaming 5 to R$998... it is almost the price I had for Gaming 3 before.
Ricerocket
Member
That PSU is easily more than fine. What's not fine is it isn't modular.
Yeah, I wish I had gone modular. Oh well!
EDIT: The PSU is also over 5 years old at this point. As long it's working fine there isn't much of a reason put in a new one, right?
appaws
Banned
What pump do you have and what kind of noise is it making? I don't hear my D5 at all even when running full out with the case panels on...?
Do it. Just do it. It's so fun. Greatest part of being a PC guy. Although I admit I am a looks obsessed perfectionist. It can get expensive, of course.
So much good info on youtube about the process. Who are you watching? Try Ronsanut and Singularity Computers if you haven't already.
No time like the present.
Do it. Do it. Do it.
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