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[opticalmace]

Awesome, thank you!

I wasn't planning on upgrading, but my buddy just got a job at Intel and get me a 6600K for like $120. The 2500K is still great, but newer titles are having some frame pacing issues so I'd rather just drop the cash now and be totally updated for the next few years.

How much can you get a 6700k for? If it's not much more, get that.

 

[SweetHands]

I have a friend building a new pc soon and the only thing he needs yet is a graphics card. I was thinking of just having him get a used 970 until the new line of cards comes out then he can upgrade it.

Anyone on here selling a 970 or know where I can get a reliable one?

 

[ACE 1991]

How much can you get a 6700k for? If it's not much more, get that.

It would be about $75 more. It's probably a good move but I really just don't want to spend the money, and the gains don't seem all that relevant for my purposes.

 

[ethomaz]

I see no video card. What is the intent of this build?

Not a fan of Gigabyte firmware, either, more of an Asus/MSI guy, go with them if price difference not too big for equivalent board.

You probably don't need the 850 EVO's performance as a boot drive, see if cheaper but modern SSDs at similar capacity exist.

First I'm doing a workable computer with onboard GPU. dGPU will come later this year (it just because I don't have the money now... if I get a GPU I will need to cut some others parts... I prefer to wait to get a better GPU and choose better parts now).

I won't overclock this gen CPU (Skylake) but I will with the successors (2017 up) that is why I want a X170 mobo.

About the mobo it is because not all brand boards are imported to Brasil via gray market... I don't know MSI and ASUS is too expensive... well let's try:

R$999 Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3

R$1319 ASUS Z170-A (cheapest Z170 DDR4 from ASUS here)
R$1449 ASUS Maximus VIII Ranger
R$1470 ASUS Z170-P

R$779 MSI Z170M Mortar
R$859 MSI Z170-A PRO
R$1108 MSI Z170-A Gaming M3

Any of these cheaper MSI are better than than Gigabyte???

About the SSD... any suggestion? I found these:

R$400 Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
R$306 Kingston V300 240GB
R$325 Kingston UV300 240GB
R$320 Sandisk Plus 240G-G25 240GB
R$341 Sandisk Z400s 256GB
R$369 Corsair Force Series LE 240GB
R$380 Samsung 750 EVO 250GB
R$389 Adata Premier SP550 240GB

I can go with 120GB models if that is enough for Win 10 + Apps.

 

[Lashley]

Here we go! Including the ODD, it's a bit more expensive, but barely so. Change the case and/or cooler to your tastes - I have pretty much set it so that everything is top in quality. Do you know the exact specs of said pre-build? Links?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£288.29 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£74.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£141.66 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill Value Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£94.50 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£70.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£114.71 @ CCL Computers)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (£563.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT Phantom 530 (White) ATX Full Tower Case (£94.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£100.91 @ CCL Computers)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer (£29.59 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) (£85.88 @ More Computers)
Total: £1660.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-26 18:43 BST+0100



Well, remember that overclocking is very easy to do! Just make sure to do the OCing only after you have installed Windows, drivers, and all necessary software. Lots of guides put there. That extra of so might just end up getting you a lot more CPU!

Oh and the Z170 boards tend to give you more features, as well as also letting you play with high speed RAM, including pre-rated XMP kits.

Heres the link to the prebuild http://www.very.co.uk/zoostorm-stry...0020152.prd?amendCommerceItemId=ci87995008469

 

[PeskyToaster]

I have 3000 MHz ram but my system lists them as running at 2133 MHZ. Is that just the default and I can go into the BIOS and change it or are there other considerations like voltage and stuff. That's not something I'm too keen on dealing with if it's dangerous to the computer.

 

[Elitist1945]

Is always having my GPU fan on a faster speed bad for it in the long run? Or does that not matter.

 

[PhoenixDawn]

Is always having my GPU fan on a faster speed bad for it in the long run? Or does that not matter.

It might eventually make the fan die out slightly faster, but I'd say it's worth it just to keep the actual card itself lasting and performing for a longer period of time. That is assuming you aren't overkill in setting your fan curves, but even if it does wear out you can typically replace the fan pretty cheaply in comparison to the cost of the new GPU.

 

[Rufus]

It will wear out faster, like all mechanical parts that are stressed more. How much its life will be cut short is anyone's guess though.

 

[Wowfunhappy]

In this vein, does not allowing your hard disc to go to sleep shorten its life? Old spinning type, of course.

I've noticed that checking the option in system preferences (I'm on a Hackintosh) helps with some media playback blips where I pause an audiobook and then try to resume it half an hour later.

 

[Megabat]

It would be about $75 more. It's probably a good move but I really just don't want to spend the money, and the gains don't seem all that relevant for my purposes.

I'd do the same thing (even though those prices are ridiculous). If you're going above the i5 these days, you might as well get a 5820K.

And hey, sit on that $75 for a few months, and it might be good for a 480GB SSD.

 

[ACE 1991]

I'd do the same thing (even though those prices are ridiculous). If you're going above the i5 these days, you might as well get a 5820K.

And hey, sit on that $75 for a few months, and it might be good for a 480GB SSD.

SSD is the next upgrade, I still haven't bought one!

 

[Megabat]

In this vein, does not allowing your hard disc to go to sleep shorten its life? Old spinning type, of course.

I've noticed that checking the option in system preferences (I'm on a Hackintosh) helps with some media playback blips where I pause an audiobook and then try to resume it half an hour later.

Surprisingly, it's the opposite. Spinning up wears the disk down a lot more than running constantly.

 

[Megabat]

I have 3000 MHz ram but my system lists them as running at 2133 MHZ. Is that just the default and I can go into the BIOS and change it or are there other considerations like voltage and stuff. That's not something I'm too keen on dealing with if it's dangerous to the computer.

What chipset are you on? And, if you have the information on hand, what is your motherboard's make and model?

 

[Megabat]

So I've been thinking of upgrading my GPU when Polaris is released, but I'm still rocking a PCI-E 2 Motherboard(MSI P67A-GD55) with a 2500k and I see very little reason to upgrade my CPU at this point.

How will a PCI-E 2 Motherboard impact me if I upgrade to Polaris? (presumably the same as if I got a 390? But how would that impact me?)

PCI-E 2 has more than enough bandwidth. If you're only looking for Radeon 390-level performance, you might not even have serious bottlenecking problems - though newer CPU's can get you lower frame-time variance.

 

[PeskyToaster]

What chipset are you on? And, if you have the information on hand, what is your motherboard's make and model?

Motherboard: Gigabyte LGA 1151 Z170 HDMI 2-Way CrossFire ATX DDR4 Motherboards GA-Z170-HD3

Specs
I assume the O.C. in the RAM section means Overclock.

I'll add my RAM info as well
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (PC4-24000) C15 Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)

 

[opticalmace]

I have 3000 MHz ram but my system lists them as running at 2133 MHZ. Is that just the default and I can go into the BIOS and change it or are there other considerations like voltage and stuff. That's not something I'm too keen on dealing with if it's dangerous to the computer.

You can try enabling the XMP profile in the bios. Sometimes it'll work, sometimes it won't. If it doesn't, set the timings and voltage (probably 1.35V, check your ram) manually, and speed to 3000mhz. You may have to reduce the speed slightly or relax the timings if it is still being problematic, as technically any memory speed past 2133mhz is overclocking the z170 platform memory standard or whatever.

 

[Megabat]

Motherboard: Gigabyte LGA 1151 Z170 HDMI 2-Way CrossFire ATX DDR4 Motherboards GA-Z170-HD3

Specs
I assume the O.C. in the RAM section means Overclock.

I'll add my RAM info as well
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz (PC4-24000) C15 Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B3000C15)

Wow, I have almost exactly the same board. My 2400MHz sticks immediately ran at rated speed. You shouldn't have to overclock anything.

I'll dig around the BIOS myself and hopefully find an answer. One major thing is that this is a first-run Skylake board, and you may have gotten one with BIOS revision F1. This is revision has a few flaws... which I don't remember specifically, because I updated to F4 almost immediately after installing Windows.

So, I suppose you should update to the newest BIOS revision before you do anything else (if you haven't already).

 

[Wowfunhappy]

I'd do the same thing (even though those prices are ridiculous). If you're going above the i5 these days, you might as well get a 5820K.

But is the 5820K definitively better? The 6700K has a MUCH faster base clock speed, which I'd assume would mean it can be overclocked to a higher speed as well. That's a problem if you want to do things like emulation. I guess you could easily do that with the 6600K too, but if you want the best of both worlds, the 6700K seems like the best option.

I ask because I'm curious, not because I'm going to buy a new processor in the near future.

 

[PeskyToaster]

I haven't updated anything yet. Just ran Windows update so far. I was planning to do some updating when I got home. I assume the disk that came with it is probably not up to date so I might as well just get them from the web.

 

[Seronei]

PCI-E 2 has more than enough bandwidth. If you're only looking for Radeon 390-level performance, you might not even have serious bottlenecking problems - though newer CPU's can get you lower frame-time variance.

Thanks, I'll just keep the old MB then. Maybe I'll put the money on some fast DDR3 ram instead.

 

[HP_Wuvcraft]

Depends. How old (and is it out of warranty), and what exact model, wattage, and per-rail wattage?

Corsair 1050. Out of warranty. 3 years.

The problem is that my current rig was/is always having power issues. GFX card kept shutting off, etc.

So I'm concerned that, even though the PS might not be the entire issue, bringing it into the new chassis would be a bad move.

 

[Megabat]

But is the 5820K definitively better? The 6700K has a MUCH faster base clock speed, which I'd assume would mean it can be overclocked to a higher speed as well. That's a problem if you want to do things like emulation. I guess you could easily do that with the 6600K too, but if you want the best of both worlds, the 6700K seems like the best option.

I ask because I'm curious, not because I'm going to buy a new processor in the near future.

It might not be definitively better for games at this point. But it can hit 4.6GHz (roughly the same as an average 6700K overclock (IPC improvements mean a Skylake core is still faster)), and has two more cores and four more threads. So It's just an overall faster CPU, costs the same as the 6700K, and has good potential as games start to scale more.

edit: Also, I really shouldn't have phrased that like I did, as a statement. It's really just my opinion.

 

[Lashley]

Realistically, what settings could I play new games on with a GTX 970 and a i5-6600K or i5-6400? And when would I need to upgrade?

 

[kennah]

Realistically, what settings could I play new games on with a GTX 970 and a i5-6600K or i5-6400? And when would I need to upgrade?

Depends on resolution but high ultra and until it feels slow to you. For some it would be years

 

[Akoi]

It might not be definitively better for games at this point. But it can hit 4.6GHz (roughly the same as an average 6700K overclock (IPC improvements mean a Skylake core is still faster)), and has two more cores and four more threads. So It's just an overall faster CPU, costs the same as the 6700K, and has good potential as games start to scale more.

edit: Also, I really shouldn't have phrased that like I did, as a statement. It's really just my opinion.

Yep, IMHO the 5820k is a way better value than the 6700k, especially if you are into overclocking. That and the 6800k (5820k replacement) is coming out probably in June. (An even better option)

I am half tempted to sell off my 5820k for the 6800k if it overclocks better since my 5820k seems to be a pain to raise higher than 4ghz.

 

[Collateral22]

Guys what could be the issue here, newish build, everything working fine bar my internet downloads. Sometimes when I download something through Chrome, it will download a mb or so, then stop and either finish in a minute or two or say Failed - Network Error. What could be the cause of this? Steam DLs fine, games are fine online, speedtest shows full speeds. Using a wired connection if that matters.

 

[Lashley]

Depends on resolution but high ultra and until it feels slow to you. For some it would be years

This on 1080p?

 

[ethomaz]

Guys what could be the issue here, newish build, everything working fine bar my internet downloads. Sometimes when I download something through Chrome, it will download a mb or so, then stop and either finish in a minute or two or say Failed - Network Error. What could be the cause of this? Steam DLs fine, games are fine online, speedtest shows full speeds. Using a wired connection if that matters.

What OS and Network adapter? Realtek didn't works fine with Win10 yet... in my case it stop the Internet when I browse GAF without ads blocked... needs restart.

I already tried MS driver and all found in Realteck site.

 

[Collateral22]

What OS and Network adapter? Realtek didn't works fine with Win10 yet... in my case it stop the Internet when I browse GAF without ads blocked... needs restart.

I already tried MS driver and all found in Realteck site.

Using Windows 10. Not sure on Network Adapter but it's a Z170A Gaming M3 from MSI.

 

[Mutagenic]

I don't know where else to ask this so I apologize in advance. I recently hooked up my old 19" Samsung SyncMaster 997DF to play some old classic PC games on Win7. First off, for some reason ReForce hasn't been forcing the desired Hz I've been asking it to. With the nvidia control panel, I'm able to set a custom resolution and force 1024x768 @ 100Hz for my desktop. However, whenever I run any game, it always reverts back to 85Hz. How on earth do I make it continue to force 100Hz in game? I've used Win10 in the past and it did this same thing. It's driving me crazy.

Nobody has any recommendations?

 

[ethomaz]

Using Windows 10. Not sure on Network Adapter but it's a Z170A Gaming M3 from MSI.

It is not Realtek... your mobo uses Killer E2400 adapter.

Edit- Reading comments on Internet seems like there are issues with Killer E2400 and Win10 too.

You can try update the drivers: http://www.killernetworking.com/support/driver-downloads

Edit 2 - This option seems to work for most people: https://m.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3f0ler/windows_10_killer_network_drives_pls_help_no/

 

[Zabojnik]

I sold my 770 GTX to a buddy of mine. It's supposed to replace an older ATi / AMD card in his system, which has the Gigabyte GA-H61M-S1. He pulled the old card out, put the new card in, connected the 6- and 8-pin connectors ... nothing. System doesn't power on.

Any idea what the problem could be? Could it be an incompatibilty / old BIOS thing? Sound more like a power supply issue to me, but he assures me he connected everything as intended and the power supply is a decent one, 650W.

 

[Firestorm]

Realistically, what settings could I play new games on with a GTX 970 and a i5-6600K or i5-6400? And when would I need to upgrade?

I used my GTX 275 from 2009 which worked with basically anything I threw at it until 2015. 970 should probably last you until 2020 to play things on Medium at 1920x1080 at 30fps (so better than a console). For now, High/Ultra it uppp.

 

[Collateral22]

It is not Realtek... your mobo uses Killer E2400 adapter.

Edit- Reading comments on Internet seems like there are issues with Killer E2400 and Win10 too.

You can try update the drivers: http://www.killernetworking.com/support/driver-downloads

Edit 2 - This option seems to work for most people: https://m.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3f0ler/windows_10_killer_network_drives_pls_help_no/

Reddit link worked the trick! It's back to normal now thank you

 

[TaterTots]

I have a i3 4170 paired with a GTX 960. So far, there have been 0 issues. Every game I play and have played do perfectly fine, but people keep telling me I need to upgrade my CPU. New titles play near if not at 60 fps with the high default setting, so I'm just curious why people keep telling me to upgrade my CPU? My GPU usage is at 99% for intensive games so its not like I'm being bottlenecked? MGSV, SFV, and Rocket League are maxed out with around 60 fps pretty consistently. The only game that has some occasional dips is Rise of The Tomb Raider.

Do I need to upgrade my CPU immediately?

 

[Lashley]

I used my GTX 275 from 2009 which worked with basically anything I threw at it until 2015. 970 should probably last you until 2020 to play things on Medium at 1920x1080 at 30fps (so better than a console). For now, High/Ultra it uppp.

And what about a 980ti? Not sure whether to pay more upfront and save more in the future, or pay less now but need to upgrade sooner

 

[saveweyard]

So I went ahead and did a motherboard bench test just to make sure all the parts I've gotten are good and everything seems to be good! I5-6600k is setting at around 31C after about 20 minutes.

One weird thing: I installed 8 GB (2x4) of Corsair 3000MHz memory but it's showing up in the BIOS as 2133MHz. Anyone have an idea of what that's about?

Edit: Nevermind, I see that I need to set the XMP so that it doesn't just default to 2133.

 

[Megabat]

I have a i3 4170 paired with a GTX 960. So far, there have been 0 issues. Every game I play and have played do perfectly fine, but people keep telling me I need to upgrade my CPU. New titles play near if not at 60 fps with the high default setting, so I'm just curious why people keep telling me to upgrade my CPU? My GPU usage is at 99% for intensive games so its not like I'm being bottlenecked? MGSV, SFV, and Rocket League are maxed out with around 60 fps pretty consistently. The only game that has some occasional dips is Rise of The Tomb Raider.

Do I need to upgrade my CPU immediately?

Of course not! Some people go way overboard/are pretty uninformed when it comes to PC hardware. Anyone who tells you you need an i5 or better is wrong. Anyone telling you to buy a 970 for playing at 1080p is wrong. It very important to understand that many people online are talking about running games at max details (regardless of what that means), and don't really seem to care about the videogames themselves.

Like, seriously. Some people don't realize that PC graphics settings are applying actual 3D rendering modifications, with variable effects on visual quality and performance.

The 4170 is about as fast as an i7-920, with all the newer instruction sets and higher IPC. In games that only use one or two cores, it's faster than a stock 5820K. The GeForce 960 is about 60% faster than the GPU inside the PS4/XBox One. that machine falls squarely into the "robust" category.

There are games that will hit the CPU especially hard, and others that won't, either from legitimate use or lower efficiency. It's all about playing a diverse range of games.

I wouldn't be looking at a CPU upgrade for the next 2-4 years.

edit: Basically, treat your PC like an appliance. Upgrade it/fix it only when it stops meeting your needs.

 

[Megabat]

I sold my 770 GTX to a buddy of mine. It's supposed to replace an older ATi / AMD card in his system, which has the Gigabyte GA-H61M-S1. He pulled the old card out, put the new card in, connected the 6- and 8-pin connectors ... nothing. System doesn't power on.

Any idea what the problem could be? Could it be an incompatibilty / old BIOS thing? Sound more like a power supply issue to me, but he assures me he connected everything as intended and the power supply is a decent one, 650W.

Well, step one is to try it with no GPU.

 

[Zabojnik]

Well, step one is to try it with no GPU.

His old GPU works just fine, as does the one I gave him.

 

[GifGafIsTheBestGaf]

hey guys, any personal experience with the Intel NUCs?

Intel NUC Kit NUC6i7KYK Mini PC BOXNUC6I7KYK1
by Intel
Link: http://amzn.com/B01DJ9XS52


i would like to get the new one (coming in may) mostly for work, i use a laptop but i would like to buy and mount a monitor on my desk and with this attached or on the side. already got the m.2 ssds (didnt have the balls to open up my msi ghost pro)

gonna order a USB stick with windows 10 pro and was considering this ram sticks

G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8G) Ripjaws Series DDR4 PC4-17000 2133MHz Laptop Memory Model F4-2133C15D-16GRS
by G.Skill
Link: http://amzn.com/B01AGPHHUO

also is there a hub to use with a thunderbol 3 port? (a good one if possible) though this one is just in case i wanna expand it further

thanks in advance

 

[catabarez]

I got my Noctua PPC Fan @ 2000 rpm and wow does this thing push a lot of air. It is definitely noisy, but bringing the rpm down makes it much quieter and it still pushes a ton of air.

In related news, not only was the manufacturer inaccurate about a 165mm cpu cooler fitting in the case, there is also enough room that I can comfortably fit a couple of 120mm fans on the side panel. This thing is super spacious.

I'm considering replacing all of my fans with these and just throw an LED strip inside instead of LED fans.

 

[kuYuri]

I have a i3 4170 paired with a GTX 960. So far, there have been 0 issues. Every game I play and have played do perfectly fine, but people keep telling me I need to upgrade my CPU. New titles play near if not at 60 fps with the high default setting, so I'm just curious why people keep telling me to upgrade my CPU? My GPU usage is at 99% for intensive games so its not like I'm being bottlenecked? MGSV, SFV, and Rocket League are maxed out with around 60 fps pretty consistently. The only game that has some occasional dips is Rise of The Tomb Raider.

Do I need to upgrade my CPU immediately?

If the games are running just fine for you and you are happy with the performance and the CPU isn't dying, then no.

 

[ACE 1991]

Any thoughts on the Corsair Carbide Series 100R Silent Edition? Worried it might cause my internals to run a lot little hot. I'll be putting a 970 and 6600K with a decent (nothing crazy) OC over air with my coolermaster 212. I like the look and it's dirt cheap, plus the noise dampening is a big plus.

EDIT: As for ram, looking to keep it cheap but still solid. Is there any reason not to buy this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTSWMVQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00MTSWMVQ&linkCode=as2&tag=ttgreviews-20&linkId=LXX5MGXDW22NQC5I Any difference between going with 1 8gb stick vs 2 4gb sticks? Thanks!

 

[XenodudeX]

I'm looking to replace my old ass ATI Radeon HD 5770 and I'm currently looking at the GTX 960 as my replacement. Pretty good upgrade at a reasonable price ( not really looking to spend no more than 200). The thing I'm most worried about right now is the power supply. I have a 450w PSU and the HD5770 recommends a 450w psu while the GTX 960 requires a 400w or more. Do you think I'll be fine with a 450 psu?

 

[Megabat]

I'm looking to replace my old ass ATI Radeon HD 5770 and I'm currently looking at the GTX 960 as my replacement. Pretty good upgrade at a reasonable price ( not really looking to spend no more than 200). The thing I'm most worried about right now is the power supply. I have a 450w PSU and the HD5770 recommends a 450w psu while the GTX 960 requires a 400w or more. Do you think I'll be fine with a 450 psu?

Usually, those recommended PSU specs consider very low-efficiency units. If you're using an 80+ certified name-brand/Quality OEM unit, you're fine.

And, for future reference, the spec that really matters isn't wattage, but amps on the12v rail. This is a measure of the actual power your PSU is capable of supplying. Ideally, a 450W power supply would deliver 37.5A. 80+ Bronze units tend to end up around 30A, and even midrange 80+ Gold units hit 37A. A theoretical prebuilt-PC PSU is probably around 70-75% efficient - delivering ~27A on the 12v rail - this is the PSU GPU manufacturers assume you have.

Also, the Radeon 380 has been found to be slightly faster than the 960, for the same price or lower. And the 950 is not much slower than either of those for ~$140.

 

[Megabat]

Any thoughts on the Corsair Carbide Series 100R Silent Edition? Worried it might cause my internals to run a lot little hot. I'll be putting a 970 and 6600K with a decent (nothing crazy) OC over air with my coolermaster 212. I like the look and it's dirt cheap, plus the noise dampening is a big plus.

EDIT: As for ram, looking to keep it cheap but still solid. Is there any reason not to buy this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTSWMVQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00MTSWMVQ&linkCode=as2&tag=ttgreviews-20&linkId=LXX5MGXDW22NQC5I Any difference between going with 1 8gb stick vs 2 4gb sticks? Thanks!

I have had that RAM for six months, with zero problems. Ideally, you'd run two 4GB DIMM's on a dual-channel platform - higher bandwidth.

RAM is kind of weird these days - it's real cheap, and almost nobody does it wrong.

I have a Corsair 200R, and airflow is fine. I believe the internal layout is almost identical. I would recommend putting in a second 120MM intake fan if you plan on using more than one mechanical drive.

 

[Cocaloch]

Prices have changed a little since then, so you can swap one or two out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($299.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $868.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-14 14:55 EDT-0400

Hey guys, I was about to bite the bullet on this, but apparently the GPU is sold out everywhere that is listed on part picker. Any suggestions about what to do?

It looks like I could buy it through New Egg, but it'd be an extra 30 bucks. Is that worth it? Or am I better off with another card?

 

[Cute Dragon Here]

First I'm doing a workable computer with onboard GPU. dGPU will come later this year (it just because I don't have the money now... if I get a GPU I will need to cut some others parts... I prefer to wait to get a better GPU and choose better parts now).

I won't overclock this gen CPU (Skylake) but I will with the successors (2017 up) that is why I want a X170 mobo.

About the mobo it is because not all brand boards are imported to Brasil via gray market... I don't know MSI and ASUS is too expensive... well let's try:

R$999 Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3

R$1319 ASUS Z170-A (cheapest Z170 DDR4 from ASUS here)
R$1449 ASUS Maximus VIII Ranger
R$1470 ASUS Z170-P

R$779 MSI Z170M Mortar
R$859 MSI Z170-A PRO
R$1108 MSI Z170-A Gaming M3

Any of these cheaper MSI are better than than Gigabyte???

About the SSD... any suggestion? I found these:

R$400 Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
R$306 Kingston V300 240GB
R$325 Kingston UV300 240GB
R$320 Sandisk Plus 240G-G25 240GB
R$341 Sandisk Z400s 256GB
R$369 Corsair Force Series LE 240GB
R$380 Samsung 750 EVO 250GB
R$389 Adata Premier SP550 240GB

I can go with 120GB models if that is enough for Win 10 + Apps.

Any of the MSI motherboards shouldn't break the bank, relatively, or be less spendy, and will get you out of Gigabyte firmware.

The Kingston V300 should be fast enough for use as a boot drive, even though it might not be as fast as it should be (mostly to do with the flash type being used sometimes varying between drives). Most people probably won't notice it much, if at all. The 850 EVO is a very nice drive to have, though.

Not enough information about the Corsair at this point of time, though, but if anything goes wrong, their post-sales support is legendary (pro-tip: ignore the retailer for any Corsair parts).

Heres the link to the prebuild http://www.very.co.uk/zoostorm-stry...0020152.prd?amendCommerceItemId=ci87995008469

Ugh, it looks really bad, and nobody knows about exact components in use outside the HDD. Might as well spend the extra 10 pound or so and get a system that's truly yours. (Refer to my parts list.)

Corsair 1050. Out of warranty. 3 years.

The problem is that my current rig was/is always having power issues. GFX card kept shutting off, etc.

So I'm concerned that, even though the PS might not be the entire issue, bringing it into the new chassis would be a bad move.

It's just 3 years old, it's out of warranty, and it's a 1050W model from Corsair?

Something does not add up. The only models that have a 3-year warranty coverage from Corsair are the VS, CX, the original CXM (current generation CXM has 5 years), and CS, and none of them have models going to 1050W. You know the exact series of your PSU? Tip: ignore any retailer-provided warranty terms for anything Corsair.

Did you mislabel? Bought an old-new stock?