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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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T

Thrakier

Member
ISee said:
It's hard to recommend going for the I7 because of hyperthreading but at least consider it. Performance differences aren't that huge atm and going for more cores instead of HTT is the better option anyway but I have the feeling that the I7 might be able to hold out a bit longer in the future. Still I understand going for another +130ish bugs is significant.

Anyway paying 'just' extra 25-35 bugs to go for higher clocked ddr4 ram seems to be worthwhile, just as a tip.

https://youtu.be/Er_Fuz54U0Y
Click to expand...

Thanks. IN the past I always good of with going for middleclass. My i5 was with me since 2011. An i7 would'nt have lasted much longer, I guess. Which clock for the RAM do you suggest?

Oh, one more thing: I just bought this RAM here: Corsair CMY16GX3M2A2400C11R Vengeance Pro Series 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2400Mhz CL11 XMP

It would make no sense to keep it for the 6600K, would it, because it's not DDR4?
 
ISee

ISee

Member
Thrakier said:
Thanks. IN the past I always good of with going for middleclass. My i5 was with me since 2011. An i7 would'nt have lasted much longer, I guess. Which clock for the RAM do you suggest?
Click to expand...

I get that and this was also my reasoning back then. Still in 2011 most games didn't even really use 4 threads/cores and the i7 was indeed 'overkill'. Today 4 threads are often enough the minimum and some games even refuse to start with 2 core processors (without HTT). So this time around I decided to go at least for 4 cores with HTT. And I'm not saying that going for an i5 is bad! I had to make the same decision last weak and I was very torn about that myself.

I went for ddr4 ram with a 3000 MHz clock speed. Seemed like a good middel ground, still if you can go for something higher at a reasonable pricefforts go for it.

Edit:
Correct you won't be able to use the ddr3 sticks with your new z170 Mainboard. That said in general skylake does support ddr3 you just need another 'type of' Mainboard, but it's not really worth doing so.
 
T

Thrakier

Member
ISee said:
I get that and this was also my reasoning back then. Still in 2011 most games didn't even really use 4 threads/cores and the i7 was indeed 'overkill'. Today 4 threads are often enough the minimum and some games even refuse to start with 2 core processors (without HTT). So this time around I decided to go at least for 4 cores with HTT. And I'm not saying that going for an i5 is bad! I had to make the same decision last weak and I was very torn about that myself.

I went for ddr4 ram with a 3000 MHz clock speed. Seemed like a good middel ground, still if you can go for something higher at a reasonable pricefforts go for it.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Whats the benefit of DDR4 instead of keeping my DDR? Would save about 100 bucks.
 
T

Thrakier

Member
ISee said:
Apparently I was wrong. skylake doesn't support standard ddr3 ram but ddr3l (needs less voltage). So your ddr3 isn't even use able.
Click to expand...

Ah, ok then. My PC supplier is warning me that more than 2133 is "overcloking" and will hurt my guarantee. What do you think about that?
 
L

LilJoka

Member
Thrakier said:
Ah, ok then. My PC supplier is warning me that more than 2133 is "overcloking" and will hurt my guarantee. What do you think about that?
Click to expand...

No way to tell that the ram was run faster than 2133mhz. So he's lying. But yes it is overclocking, but nothing unsafe.
 
K

kennah

Member
EroticSushi said:
I just swapped my busted ASUS motherboard out with a new MSI one. It booted up fine but when I got to my Windows User login page, my USB keyboard and mouse suddenly stops working.

It works fine in the BIOS but once it reaches the Starting Windows page it cuts off.

Any idea on a fix?
Click to expand...
You probably have it in a usb 3.0 port (blue colored) put it in a usb 2 port (black port)
 
ISee

ISee

Member
Thrakier said:
Ah, ok then. My PC supplier is warning me that more than 2133 is "overcloking" and will hurt my guarantee. What do you think about that?
Click to expand...

Technically it is but practically it's not and saying that it voids guarantee regulations is very "special". All higher clocked ram (above a certain standard) is branded as having an XMP setting. An XMP, or (Intel-developed) Extreme Memory Profile, is an additional set of values stored in the EEPROM which can be detected by SPD in the BIOS. The XMP profile is typically the one advertised on the memory kit (and the one the memory kit is meant to be used at). But because the capability of the memory deviates in any way from specified JEDEC timings, a manufacturer must use an XMP profile.
The thing is, after installing ram with a xmp, you have to manually set the xmp profile for your ram in bios. Theoretically you are now overcloking them but I never heard a dealer claiming that this will void guarantee. It's a certified Intel tech, your Mainboard will officially support it and the ram kit is labelled as running at different settings and meant to be used in xmp mode. If you on the other hand further change the xmp setting on your own, or you try to overclock 'standard' ram without a xmp profile... That's another story.
 
L

LilJoka

Member
You overclock the CPU memory controller too. But Intel don't care.

And as long as you aren't going over 1.35v on VDIMM and 1.25v on VCCIO & VCCSA, you aren't going to do any damage. Nor will setting too tight timings do damage. Your only voiding the warranty if there are physical deformities on the board/CPU, something that's pretty hard to do.

Nothing records the settings or if you overclocked at any point.
 
L

LaneDS

Member
scogoth said:
Try plugging the fans directly into your motherboard. Sounds more like the fan controller is dying, not the fans. Fans fail mechanically 9/10 and they either die outright or if they are about the fail you'd know it by the bearings grinding away.
Click to expand...

Ah, great idea, thanks! Will try that later tonight. Initially I believed that the fans had just run their course but when I noticed all three shut on and off at the same time I posted here looking for a suggestion like yours. Thanks again.
 
S

smuf

Member
With the new Nvidia cards coming soon I'm looking to upgrade my current build.

I'll be moving from an ATX case to mITX so I will need to get a new motherboard. My current cpu is an overclocked 4690k, should I stick with that and buy an old 1150 motherboard (and limit myself to ddr3) or step up to an i5 or i7 skylake cpu?

It'll only be used for gaming.
 
D

DjRalford

Member
Deaf Spacker said:
I removed the over-clock and the blue screens stopped, now since I can't load the over-clock profile in the bios I'm over-clocking it myself to see if I can resolve it myself. As of right now I've got it up to 4.6 GHz at 1.350 V, the temps seem a little high, at one point they were in the low 90's, I'm not comfortable with that so I may dial it back.
Click to expand...

1.350v is quite high for a newer chip.




smuf said:
With the new Nvidia cards coming soon I'm looking to upgrade my current build.

I'll be moving from an ATX case to mITX so I will need to get a new motherboard. My current cpu is an overclocked 4690k, should I stick with that and buy an old 1150 motherboard (and limit myself to ddr3) or step up to an i5 or i7 skylake cpu?

It'll only be used for gaming.
Click to expand...

Depends on if your happy spending out a bit extra to swap platforms, as your changing MB it may well be worthwhile although your current CPU Is no slouch and the difference of ddr3 to ddr4 will be negligible in gaming.
 
M

MacGurcules

Member
Anybody make an attempt to lubricate their cooling fans lately? I'm like four years into this hardware and still don't really have any complaints performance-wise. But damn if it isn't noisy now.

So last night I got fed up and tore it all down to lube the fan bearings. I ran into a little bit of a problem when I found that all but my 120mm case fan are sealed or otherwise inaccessible. When did this become the normal thing?

I've got some new fans on order, but it's gonna be a little bit of a trick lashing them onto my graphics card and prying the fan from my PSU. I just gotta quiet the thing down enough to stay sane until a reasonably priced Pascal comes along.
 
A

AkumaNiko

Member
So i have a H110 1151 Mobo and an Corsair 240. My issue is, i have to shimmy my R9 390 into place if i screw the mobo in first, like insert it at an angle

I feel uncomfortable doing so, so i figured that i install everything then install the mobo, however, the video card makes it so i cant screw in 3 of the 6 stand offs. If i leave the standoffs in place without screws, will it short my mobo? I just bought that mobo and it was bad (screw was touching two capacitors together and i did not see it.)

Anything i can do? the card is too tall, not long. I could bend the metal part but i think it holds the side on
 
L

LilJoka

Member
AkumaNiko said:
So i have a H110 1151 Mobo and an Corsair 240. My issue is, i have to shimmy my R9 390 into place if i screw the mobo in first, like insert it at an angle

I feel uncomfortable doing so, so i figured that i install everything then install the mobo, however, the video card makes it so i cant screw in 3 of the 6 stand offs. If i leave the standoffs in place without screws, will it short my mobo? I just bought that mobo and it was bad (screw was touching two capacitors together and i did not see it.)

Anything i can do? the card is too tall, not long. I could bend the metal part but i think it holds the side on
Click to expand...

Well its fine to shimmy the GPU into place if needed. If it actually fits then whats the problem?

If you have to leave out the screws for some stand offs, thats fine.
 
E

e90Mark

Member
AkumaNiko said:
So i have a H110 1151 Mobo and an Corsair 240. My issue is, i have to shimmy my R9 390 into place if i screw the mobo in first, like insert it at an angle

I feel uncomfortable doing so, so i figured that i install everything then install the mobo, however, the video card makes it so i cant screw in 3 of the 6 stand offs. If i leave the standoffs in place without screws, will it short my mobo? I just bought that mobo and it was bad (screw was touching two capacitors together and i did not see it.)

Anything i can do? the card is too tall, not long. I could bend the metal part but i think it holds the side on
Click to expand...

I'm wondering how you even have a h110 fitted as its a 280mm in a 240, as I think the max a 240 can do is a.. 240mm (lol) rad.

My h100i with a push/pull with SP120's leaves about an inch of room between the pull fans and my 970 in my air 240.
 
Gen.Grievous

Gen.Grievous

Member
DjRalford said:
1.350v is quite high for a newer chip.






Depends on if your happy spending out a bit extra to swap platforms, as your changing MB it may well be worthwhile although your current CPU Is no slouch and the difference of ddr3 to ddr4 will be negligible in gaming.
Click to expand...
Not for skylake. 1.35 V to get a stable 4.6 Ghz is quite normal.
 
L

LilJoka

Member
DjRalford said:
wow really, my 4790k at stock runs on 1.190v and a low OC to 4.6Ghz only takes 1.22v, i thought newer chips were supposed to use less and make less heat.
Click to expand...

Yeah supposed to, but i think Intel max Vcore is 1.45v in the white papers.
The chips use nothing when stock.
 
D

DjRalford

Member
LilJoka said:
Yeah supposed to, but i think Intel max Vcore is 1.45v in the white papers.
The chips use nothing when stock.
Click to expand...

i keep my 4790k at stock, with the low voltage and my h100i it doesnt go over 60c after hours of prime, so when it need stretching a bit i have some wiggle room.

Highest i got it when testing its abilities on release was 4.8Ghz but it took 1.3v and hit the low 80's in prime.
 
A

AkumaNiko

Member
e90Mark said:
I'm wondering how you even have a h110 fitted as its a 280mm in a 240, as I think the max a 240 can do is a.. 240mm (lol) rad.

My h100i with a push/pull with SP120's leaves about an inch of room between the pull fans and my 970 in my air 240.
Click to expand...

Sorry its a gigabyte H110 Intel 1151 Mobo, not the water cooler
 
G

Glass Shark

Banned
Is there a good reusable tool for cleaning out the inside of a PC case as an alternative to canned air? I don't want to have to keep buying it when I need it. I've heard people warn against using a vacuum inside PC cases, would the same be true for some kind of blower?
 
Lactose_Intolerant

Lactose_Intolerant

Member
jrh2 said:
Is there a good reusable tool for cleaning out the inside of a PC case as an alternative to canned air? I don't want to have to keep buying it when I need it. I've heard people warn against using a vacuum inside PC cases, would the same be true for some kind of blower?
Click to expand...

7t.jpg
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
jrh2 said:
Yeah, this is what keeps coming up in Google searches for me. Just wondering if anyone had any personal experience.
Click to expand...
Have 2, theres like $4 cheaper versions now from people trying to take sales away. It's expensive but worth it imo.
 
L

lordfuzzybutt

Member
jrh2 said:
Yeah, this is what keeps coming up in Google searches for me. Just wondering if anyone had any personal experience.
Click to expand...

I have one. It makes a sound like a jet plane when being used but it's pretty great otherwise.

Keeping my machine clean since 2014.

Though it comes with its own dust filter at the bottom and I haven't looked into how to replace it yet, or if it's possible to at all.
 
C

Collateral22

Member
Booted my PC up this morning, and was greeted with a menu in my BIOS asking me to pick a boot device. List was like Boot management(er?) , HDD, SSD and my USB. I picked SSD as that is where my OS is and it said bootmgr is missing. So I Crtl Alt Delete and reboot, and its fine now. What could have caused that? Is is just a one off random thing or is something up?
 
V

Vuze

Member
Man, this case. SATA power extensions came in and I could get rid of one SATA cable from my PSU. Backplate still didn't close properly. Swapped the SATA data cables to flat ones. Still no dice.

I'll try re-routing VGA power via the front next but blergh. Cable management with limited space is hard ;_;
 
L

LordAlu

Member
nilbog21 said:
Hey guys my friend asked me to run this by you guys

ca58560234cfb124f379cf29ca8ec58c.png


Any adjustments he should make?
Click to expand...
You can get Skylake, with a better cooler and SSD too, for less:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($334.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.33 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card ($294.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $1056.26
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-03 14:27 EDT-0400

Although I would recommend waiting till next week - there's a NVIDIA press event on the 6th where it's widely believed they'll be doing a (paper) launch on their new cards.
 
E

Exalted

Member
A quick question, does using an H110 chipset affect performance in any negative way, compared to H170, if you only have a single GPU on your mobo and nothing else. (possible pci lanes limitation?)
 
V

Vuze

Member
I've been shopping for "accessories" lately (namely I bought a LED strip and am looking at a PCI fan controller right now since my MoBo can't control the 3pin fans on the 4pin headers for whatever reason). I realized that these items often have two Molex connectors with them but I wonder why? My PSU Molex cable only takes male, are there mixed cables?
 
L

luckygodzilla

Member
Hey everyone, with the new nvidia cards right around the corner and my gaming laptop getting long in the tooth I've decided to take my first shot at getting a PC built from scrap, looking for any feedback from you guys.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cMK6cf

The 980 is a stand in for the presumed 1080, and since I don't actually have direct access to an Ethernet port for at least a year the wireless card is also an area where I'm looking for recommendations.
 
Terrorblot

Terrorblot

Member
I feel like the biggest idiot ever. I've built a couple computers in the past, not my first rodeo. I've been slowly putting a computer together and finally got the final part in, the processor. I've done it like 5-6 times but somehow I managed to get the orientation wrong and destroyed both the PCU and Motherboard. This is probably one of the cringiest things I've ever done, some straight up computer gore. Time to find out what Newegg and Amazon's return policy's are like. :(
 
K

kennah

Member
There's a Acer XB270HU 27in WQHD IPS Gaming LCD w/ G-SYNC on sale at a local store for $500 Canadian (regular price $1000). Seems to be a refurb/warranty return item.

That's kind of a no brainer buy isn't it. I can't really really afford it, but it wouldn't put me out too hard either.
 
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