Shining Sunshine
Banned
Uh it appears that the plug for the power switch came out. lol
Wouldn't have figured that out without taking out almost everything since this stupid non-modular PSU and shitty case is so messy.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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Uh it appears that the plug for the power switch came out. lol
Wouldn't have figured that out without taking out almost everything since this stupid non-modular PSU and shitty case is so messy.
Nope it's not unusual to have tons of errors with defective ram, in fact so many errors means it's extremely like the RAM is defective. CPUs don't fail, literally ever.
For next time, if you get no fan movement at all, check power switch.
We can only find the 380 on Amazon and similar stores. What are the differences between that and the 380X?
Is there something wrong with my 980? The display driver keeps crashing and the tops of Windows are glitched
I'm on the latest drivers and my 980 is OCd as shown here on GPU Tweak
I've had it OCd exactly like this for two months and I haven't had a problem until today.
Well first thing to try is turn the overclock off.
Do games run properly?
I'll PM you.
Here's the best that I can do:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($298.75 @ shopRBC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.98 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.99 @ NCIX)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($63.98 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($112.75 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($60.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card ($399.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX)
Total: $1213.40
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-31 16:39 EDT-0400
If you really need to save money, then drop the SSD for now and just get the hard drive. You can always get an SSD later and add it in. I assume you wanted the i5 4690K, so I substituted that in.
Then the only thing that I think would make a difference are the drivers, if it worked perfectly before on another PC. Unless it got damaged somehow.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
Unfortunately for me, the power switch is behind the harddrive bay, and the same with the Sata ports, so I have to take out that whole thing, which is caught by a ton of wires, so probably didn't see it come out.
Why is this power switch so easy to take out? There's no locking mechanism.
Anyway, fixed my HDD. I just took out my optical drive sata and used it on that HDD instead. No one needs optical drives anymore.
There is always a bit of improvisation needed in PC gaming, from building to configuring. The best tip I can give us use lots of cable ties and keep everything neat and secured, that will limit any chance of things getting tangled/caught. Sometimes I route the front panel cables from below the board.
Possibly the problem with the HDD originates from the SATA cable from the HDD to the Board, either the cable, the port or not pushed in fully at one end.
thank you very much
Can anyone recommend me a UPS for my PC? Power outages are becoming more frequent here and my current UPS is crapping out.
What I need is a UPS that can keep my PC for at least an hour under heavy-maximum load. I don't know how to calculate the required Watts and Amps for the UPS I need but here are my specs.
Thermaltake 700W PSU.
ASUS Maximus 7 Ranger.
16GB DDR3.
i7 4790, no OC.
Geforce 770 4GB.
Also attached to the UPS is a Samsuns 32" smart TV, a router and an external HDD with external power.
What I need is a UPS that can keep my PC for at least an hour under heavy-maximum load. I don't know how to calculate the required Watts and Amps for the UPS I need but here are my specs.
Thermaltake 700W PSU.
ASUS Maximus 7 Ranger.
16GB DDR3.
i7 4790, no OC.
Geforce 770 4GB.
Also attached to the UPS is a Samsuns 32" smart TV, a router and an external HDD with external power.
For energy requirements it's just Watts x Hours, so 500W for an hour needs 500Wh or 0.5KWh.
Looks good to me. Of course I will recommend not paying for assembly or warranty (since each part has multi year warranties) unless your assembler is also giving you replacement service and you require high up-times.
In RAID0 you should expect a fair boost in performance since sequential speeds essentially double, but seek times are unaffected. Since you are dealing with large contiguous files it's the sequentials that should matter the most anyway.
Bolivar687
Banned
Sorry! Didn't realize the 380X wasn't out yet.
Looking at prices, you might want to consider splitting the difference between the price ranges you were looking at and go for an R9 390. That way you could see what the DirectX12 performance will be before deciding whether or not to upgrade next year.
LegionAgent
Member
Hey guys, I need your help. I'm running a 3570k paired with a GTX 960 4G and the other day my computer started to run a little bit slow. I immediatley checked my temperatures and realized the CPU was overheating a little bit. I cleaned the CPU fan (it's the one that comes with the CPU package) and re applied thermal paste. After that I started checking my temps again and got this results:
-35° C after booting up
-35° C to 50° C degrees after starting Steam and running an antivirus check.
-85° C, which was the maximum temperature I got, after playing Assassin's Creed Unity at Max settings.
Though I got 85° C the computer didn't slow that nor did it start to stutter, thus, I wanted to ask you if this should be considered normal or if I should be thinking about changing my fan. Or maybe it's another problem not hardware related, though I can't think of one.
-35° C after booting up
-35° C to 50° C degrees after starting Steam and running an antivirus check.
-85° C, which was the maximum temperature I got, after playing Assassin's Creed Unity at Max settings.
Though I got 85° C the computer didn't slow that nor did it start to stutter, thus, I wanted to ask you if this should be considered normal or if I should be thinking about changing my fan. Or maybe it's another problem not hardware related, though I can't think of one.
Wowfunhappy
Member
Isn't it actually a bit more than that because PSU's aren't 100% efficient?
Yeah it would be dependant on PSU efficiency, but you would buy bigger than you need either way. Take 80% eff as worst case scenario under medium to heavy load.
The CPU will not slow down (thermally throttle) until it hits around 100c core temp. That could happen after a few hours of gaming, possibly your fan setup is not optimal. Show us a diagram of your case and fan setup/flow. 85c with gaming is probably somewhat normal with ivy bridge with maybe 25-30c room temperature and stock CPU cooler.
So do you run stock cooler?
What is the room temperature?
Rest of specs? Case? Fan setup?
Shining Sunshine
Banned
It's an old PC. With modular builds and better cases, it's so much easier nowadays.
Hey duders.
I'm looking to get some more storage, and was wondering how have the 4tb (and larger) drives been as far as reliability goes? I'm thinking about WD's Green 4TB drives specifically.
And what's the deal with drives geared towards NAS and surveillance? There's nothing stopping me from buying a purple or red wd drive and plop it in my desktop, right? The longer warranty is tempting me.
Also it seems that WD Blue drives are practically non-existant in the stores here in Finland, or at least the ones I've looked in, I wonder what's up with that.
Any advice on picking drives would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking to get some more storage, and was wondering how have the 4tb (and larger) drives been as far as reliability goes? I'm thinking about WD's Green 4TB drives specifically.
And what's the deal with drives geared towards NAS and surveillance? There's nothing stopping me from buying a purple or red wd drive and plop it in my desktop, right? The longer warranty is tempting me.
Also it seems that WD Blue drives are practically non-existant in the stores here in Finland, or at least the ones I've looked in, I wonder what's up with that.
Any advice on picking drives would be greatly appreciated.
People tend to stay away from Green drives since they have a head park feature to save power, but actually reduces the lifespan/reliability. That's pretty much why we have Red/Purple drives. The Hitachi drives seem more reliable than WD so I wouldn't even bother with deciphering the purpose of so many ranges of drives from WD. Red has TLER feature which is needed for RAID I believe and importantly doesn't have head park feature, purple I'm not sure what it's "feature" is.
And yes there is nothing stopping you from using any drive, they all hook up the same way and all appear in the same fashion to Windows.
Is it not possible to adjust the parking feature anymore with wdidle? If not, then the Green drives are definitely out of the question for me as well.
I see that they finally released windows 10 drivers for my sound card (X-fi Titanium HD) but Asus still hasn't released drivers for their z68 motherboards
Anyone else here still on a z68 mobo waiting on windows 10 drivers?
I would bet the 8 drivers work fine. All you need is Chipset, Management Engine, LAN, USB 3.0 drivers. Give it a go, worst case you can roll back to 8 without losing anything.
I think that's still possible, but it's up to you, Greens have good warranty? Like i said, I would just go Hitachi.
https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-update-september-2014/
It's going to be hard and costly to find a UPS that can run at max load for 1 hr. For example, I am using a Tripp Lite SMART 900W, but it can only run at 450 watts for 10mins. At near max 900W load, it probably will last 30s. They are more design to avoid the suddenly split second powerless and give you a few minutes to save data / shutdown your PC.
Yeah I thought as much, what he needs is a backup generator lol.
LegionAgent
Member
Here is a rough sketch of my case, the blue things are 120mm fans and there is also a 180mm on one of the latteral panels of the case (the one on the opposite side to the mother board)
I do run the stock cooler that came included with the i5 3570 k
The room temperature is 25-30 during the day and 10-15 during night
The rest of my specs are (note, nothing is overclocked):
-Motherboard: Gigabyte H61M-S1
-CPU: Intel Core i5-3570k with stock fan cooler.
-GPU: GTX 960 4G
-6 GB Ram
-HDD 1TB Seagate
-PSU: Corsair CX600M Bronze
-3 120mm Fans
-1 180mm Fan
Also, I just played Crysis 3 at max settings for 30 min and I got a 90°C for maximum temp and around 85° average. Oh, and temp doesn't stay up too long after I stop playing, it comes back to 40° C average after a few minutes.
Here is a rough sketch of my case, the blue things are 120mm fans and there is also a 180mm on one of the latteral panels of the case (the one on the opposite side to the mother board)
I do run the stock cooler that came included with the i5 3570 k
The room temperature is 25-30 during the day and 10-15 during night
The rest of my specs are (note, nothing is overclocked):
-Motherboard: Gigabyte H61M-S1
-CPU: Intel Core i5-3570k with stock fan cooler.
-GPU: GTX 960 4G
-6 GB Ram
-HDD 1TB Seagate
-PSU: Corsair CX600M Bronze
-3 120mm Fans
-1 180mm Fan
Also, I just played Crysis 3 at max settings for 30 min and I got a 90°C for maximum temp and around 85° average. Oh, and temp doesn't stay up too long after I stop playing, it comes back to 40° C average after a few minutes.
Yeah it's getting hotter than normal that's for sure. Things to check:
Get rid of dust build up on any fan blades and general dusting
Arrange cables neatly so flow us unobstructed
Make sure all fans are actually working
Press down on the top of the CPU cooler, see if temps drop. Check the push pins are twisted opposite to the arrows for locked position and push them hard in towards the motherboard to make sure they are securely installed.
Remove the CPU cooler, clean and reapply new thermal paste.
Run a game without case side panel installed, see if there is any difference in temps.
Normally a CPU idles around 10c above ambient from cold boot, and about 15c above ambient after running some load.
I'm assuming the top and rear fans are exhausting air and the front fan is intake? This is fine if so.
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
I built my computer 2 days ago and today it is not turning on... WTF What do I do?
troubleshoot. isolate the problem. It sounds like a PSU problem if it's not even turning on though
LegionAgent
Member
Ok so, answering some stuff. I had already done everything you said today before posting. This afternoon I cleaned the fans and stuff. Applied new thermal paste and double checked for the CPU cooler to be perfectly installed. Also checked if the fans were all working and they were. For your consideration, the case (Sentey Optimus) is almost 3 years old this year (all fans were included except for CPU one, obviously) and the CPU with it's cooler is almost 2 years old as well. I'm starting to wonder if something else is the problem and if I'll have to switch some parts, since cleaning and applying new paste didn't seem to make things that much better. Also, as of now the ambient temperature is 15° C and the computer is at 39° average (I'm currently just using Chrome and Steam is opened but I'm not playing any games). I'm also wandering if there is and actual problem or if I'm just making a storm in a glass of water.
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
The front panel led light is on so it's probably not the psu
Hello GAF!
I will need a new PC soon as my old one (8 years old this year) is dying.
So I start making a brand new tower, and I need some help / advice for some parts.
But fisrt, I fill the form of the OP:
Here my last Part List (Live in France, so I take Germany for the prices. I will buy each part at the lowest price and mount it my self)
(when "(Purchased)", I already got it. thx cpt obvious)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (377.63 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (64.95)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (151.76 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (64.83 @ Mindfactory) x2
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased)
Case: NZXT Phantom (Black/Orange) ATX Full Tower Case (143.44 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (148.94)
Sound Card: Creative Labs SB X-Fi Xtreme Audio 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card (Purchased)
Case Fan: NZXT FZ-200mm LED 103.0 CFM 200mm Fan (21.54 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case Fan: NZXT FZ-200mm LED 103.0 CFM 200mm Fan (21.54 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 FLX 68.0 CFM 140mm Fan (21.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
GPU: iChill Geforce GTX 980Ti Black (779.95)
Total: 1861.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-01 06:21 CEST+0200
So, if you can optimize this, I will love you! (Mainly, the Motherboard, the PSU, the RAM, but I take advice for everything)
Just some things:
About the video card, I really want the iChill Gef​orce GTX 9​80Ti Black. (For the base O/C and the cooling) (I still take advice)
For the motherboard: 6+ USB is better
For the case: You can suggest, but the NZXT... it was love at first sight!
Thanks
I will need a new PC soon as my old one (8 years old this year) is dying.
So I start making a brand new tower, and I need some help / advice for some parts.
But fisrt, I fill the form of the OP:
- Your Current Specs: i7 920 (O/C @2.5 G/Hz) / 12 Go DDR3 / An Asus Deluxe / EVGA GTX 480 (will need a SAV soon) / 750W / Antec P182 / SSD 512Go (MX100)
- Budget: Prefere 1800-1900 max (2000 is the extreme limit) + Country: France
- Main Use:
- Hard Gaming, Emulation, Game Development (UE4, Unity 5)
- Video Editing, Streaming games in HD,
- 3D/Model work (Maya)
- General Usage
- Monitor Resolution: Got 2 Monitors atm : Main: 27" 1920x1200, sub: 24" 1680x1050. Will change later, with an other budget.
- List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: FPS : more than 30 if possible. PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA is important. Game: Mirror's Edge 2, Star Citizen/Elite
, No Man Sky, GTAV, MGSV. Apps : Unreal Engine 4, Unity 5, After Effect + Premier Pro, Maya - Looking to reuse any parts?:
- Crucial MX100 512Go
- My 2 Seagate HDD (2 To and 512 Go)
- LG BR Drive
- When will you build?: Before the end of september if possible, end of october in the worst case.
- Will you be overclocking?: Yes, ofc!
Here my last Part List (Live in France, so I take Germany for the prices. I will buy each part at the lowest price and mount it my self)
(when "(Purchased)", I already got it. thx cpt obvious)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (377.63 @ Mindfactory)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler (64.95)
Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (151.76 @ Mindfactory)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (64.83 @ Mindfactory) x2
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased)
Case: NZXT Phantom (Black/Orange) ATX Full Tower Case (143.44 @ Mindfactory)
Power Supply: Corsair 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (148.94)
Sound Card: Creative Labs SB X-Fi Xtreme Audio 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card (Purchased)
Case Fan: NZXT FZ-200mm LED 103.0 CFM 200mm Fan (21.54 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case Fan: NZXT FZ-200mm LED 103.0 CFM 200mm Fan (21.54 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 FLX 68.0 CFM 140mm Fan (21.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
GPU: iChill Geforce GTX 980Ti Black (779.95)
Total: 1861.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-01 06:21 CEST+0200
So, if you can optimize this, I will love you! (Mainly, the Motherboard, the PSU, the RAM, but I take advice for everything)
Just some things:
About the video card, I really want the iChill Gef​orce GTX 9​80Ti Black. (For the base O/C and the cooling) (I still take advice)
For the motherboard: 6+ USB is better
For the case: You can suggest, but the NZXT... it was love at first sight!
Thanks
Motherboard is fine. Power supply you may want to consider alternatives in case you want to upgrade your PC in the future or want a PSU of a higher quality. Where are you located and how much does the Corsair PSU cost? What local stores you're looking at?Will this Motherboard and Power Suply hold up without a problem?
Already have the price, so I just need a confirmation to complete de Order!
I just need to double check something real quick
Will this Z97 LGA1150 mobo (here) work with my i5 3570K?
And, if I am purchasing a new motherboard, but using the same processor and storage, will I need to do anything fancy to get my copy of Windows to work? I purchased Win8 a few years ago and have lost the disc and serial number, so I'm really hoping I can just move the CPU and SSD over to the new mobo and have everything work with no problems.
Will this Z97 LGA1150 mobo (here) work with my i5 3570K?
And, if I am purchasing a new motherboard, but using the same processor and storage, will I need to do anything fancy to get my copy of Windows to work? I purchased Win8 a few years ago and have lost the disc and serial number, so I'm really hoping I can just move the CPU and SSD over to the new mobo and have everything work with no problems.
It will not work. Your 3570 is socket 1155, z97 is socket 1150.
It's unlikely your copy of Windows will work with the a swap, you might need to reinstall/call Microsoft to reactivate.
Cheers for the quick reply.
Well, fck. So I guess this leaves me in a weird spot. If I want to keep using my 3570 (which honestly has been great and not bottlenecking me at all with an OC of 4.2), I need to buy a Z77 mobo, which means I can't upgrade the CPU in the next few years correct? I really don't have the funds to upgrade my CPU atm, due to purchasing a 980ti; but my motherboard is on its way out. It's a shitty $60 I bought on a budget years ago and needs to go.
This mobo looks like it would fit the bill, but I am paying more money for an older board which just doesn't sit well with me. Any advice PC gaf?
Well. A new mobo would be cheaper than upgrading.
A 3570k can easily be enough cpu for the next few years if current trends continue.
Or you could sell your 3570 and move up to a 4690 or 4790, but that wouldn't be a huge improvement.
Skylake is out because you'd have to get ddr4.
A 3570k can easily be enough cpu for the next few years if current trends continue.
Or you could sell your 3570 and move up to a 4690 or 4790, but that wouldn't be a huge improvement.
Skylake is out because you'd have to get ddr4.
Thanks for the reply! Yeah it's kind of a 3 year on-site services. I sadly don't have the time (nor confidence) to do it myself and I'm running a small company, so I can't afford any downtime
Do you get an temp drop with the side panel off? It still seems a little high to me for idle at those ambient temps.
AsfaeksBR
Member
Brazil, and I can get the 600W for about $20 more so... Doing this, it's all well and good? Can I pull the trigger?
Ok I'm thinking of adding a second GTX970 to my system for SLI
I'm currently running this:
MoBo: Asus P8-Z77-V-LK
CPU: i5 3570k@4.4k ghz (with an CM 212 Evo cooler)
GPU: MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming (+140 core,+450 memory, no voltage OCed)
A/C: Sharkoon WPM600 (600w)
Case: Fractal Design R5
I'm currently looking at a second MSI GTX970.
Now for my questions:
1. Is there enough space for a second GPU on my MoBo? Besides my GPU there's nothing extra installed.
2. Any recommendations for a new A/C? Think the old one won't be sufficient.
3. Should I invest in an additional cooler? I'm currently running only the CM212 Evo, my GPU cooler and the cooler which comes with the R5-Case at the back.
My current temps after long gaming sessions are low 70°C for the GPU and around 55°C for the CPU.
I'm currently running this:
MoBo: Asus P8-Z77-V-LK
CPU: i5 3570k@4.4k ghz (with an CM 212 Evo cooler)
GPU: MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming (+140 core,+450 memory, no voltage OCed)
A/C: Sharkoon WPM600 (600w)
Case: Fractal Design R5
I'm currently looking at a second MSI GTX970.
Now for my questions:
1. Is there enough space for a second GPU on my MoBo? Besides my GPU there's nothing extra installed.
2. Any recommendations for a new A/C? Think the old one won't be sufficient.
3. Should I invest in an additional cooler? I'm currently running only the CM212 Evo, my GPU cooler and the cooler which comes with the R5-Case at the back.
My current temps after long gaming sessions are low 70°C for the GPU and around 55°C for the CPU.
Nope, not necessarily. Doesn't take much to power a LED.
Unfortunately this is one of the most annoying things to troubleshoot if you don't have any spare parts on hand. How old is your PSU?
Hey all,
This will be my first gaming PC and I have a max budget of £700.
I want to hook my PC to my TV which is a Sony Bravia 42". I would like to play games at 1080p and at decent framerates. This is the build I was thinking of buying:
Case
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 BLUE CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-4460 (3.2GHz) 6MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® H81-Gamer: ATX, LG1150, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM)
8GB KINGSTON DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (1 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 960 - DVI, HDMI, 3 DP - 3D Vision Ready
Free Item
FREE METAL GEAR SOLID game with select GTX 9 Series GPUs! -Subject to T&Cs
1st Hard Disk
1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM
Memory Card Reader
INTERNAL 52 IN 1 CARD READER (XD, MS, CF, SD, etc) + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT
Power Supply
CORSAIR 450W VS SERIES VS-450 POWER SUPPLY
Processor Cooling
INTEL STANDARD CPU COOLER
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking
WIRELESS 802.11N 150Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD (£5)
USB Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 4 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Operating System
Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc DVD & Licence (£79)
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft® Office® 365
Anti-Virus
BULLGUARD INTERNET SECURITY - FREE 90 DAY TRIAL
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour) (£5)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 6 to 8 working days
Quantity
1
Price: £661.00 including VAT and delivery.
Could someone please say if this will do the job? I want it to be a lot better than my PS4 for the money as this will be double the cost. Also I should add that I really dont want to build my own.
Thanks a lot
This will be my first gaming PC and I have a max budget of £700.
I want to hook my PC to my TV which is a Sony Bravia 42". I would like to play games at 1080p and at decent framerates. This is the build I was thinking of buying:
Case
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 BLUE CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-4460 (3.2GHz) 6MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® H81-Gamer: ATX, LG1150, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM)
8GB KINGSTON DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (1 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 960 - DVI, HDMI, 3 DP - 3D Vision Ready
Free Item
FREE METAL GEAR SOLID game with select GTX 9 Series GPUs! -Subject to T&Cs
1st Hard Disk
1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM
Memory Card Reader
INTERNAL 52 IN 1 CARD READER (XD, MS, CF, SD, etc) + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT
Power Supply
CORSAIR 450W VS SERIES VS-450 POWER SUPPLY
Processor Cooling
INTEL STANDARD CPU COOLER
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking
WIRELESS 802.11N 150Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD (£5)
USB Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 4 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Operating System
Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc DVD & Licence (£79)
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft® Office® 365
Anti-Virus
BULLGUARD INTERNET SECURITY - FREE 90 DAY TRIAL
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour) (£5)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 6 to 8 working days
Quantity
1
Price: £661.00 including VAT and delivery.
Could someone please say if this will do the job? I want it to be a lot better than my PS4 for the money as this will be double the cost. Also I should add that I really dont want to build my own.
Thanks a lot
Hey all,
This will be my first gaming PC and I have a max budget of £700.
I want to hook my PC to my TV which is a Sony Bravia 42". I would like to play games at 1080p and at decent framerates. This is the build I was thinking of buying:
Case
COOLERMASTER ELITE 311 BLUE CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-4460 (3.2GHz) 6MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® H81-Gamer: ATX, LG1150, USB 3.0, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM)
8GB KINGSTON DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (1 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 960 - DVI, HDMI, 3 DP - 3D Vision Ready
Free Item
FREE METAL GEAR SOLID game with select GTX 9 Series GPUs! -Subject to T&Cs
1st Hard Disk
1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive
24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM
Memory Card Reader
INTERNAL 52 IN 1 CARD READER (XD, MS, CF, SD, etc) + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT
Power Supply
CORSAIR 450W VS SERIES VS-450 POWER SUPPLY
Processor Cooling
INTEL STANDARD CPU COOLER
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking
WIRELESS 802.11N 150Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD (£5)
USB Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 4 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Operating System
Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc DVD & Licence (£79)
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft® Office® 365
Anti-Virus
BULLGUARD INTERNET SECURITY - FREE 90 DAY TRIAL
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour) (£5)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 6 to 8 working days
Quantity
1
Price: £661.00 including VAT and delivery.
Could someone please say if this will do the job? I want it to be a lot better than my PS4 for the money as this will be double the cost. Also I should add that I really dont want to build my own.
Thanks a lot
It'll work but typical hallmarks of a prebuilt.
-Single channel RAM
-Crap wifi card
-Blu Ray for? And DVD?
-Card readers?
-Tacky case for living room imo
-Bloatware
Maybe look at MiniITX builds (these have onboard wifi too), have a look at some YouTube videos how to build a PC, it really is quite easy. Why don't you want to build it? I've helped a member over whatsapp to build his first PC in a CM Elite 130 ITX box which is probably as difficult as it gets.
Something in the living room is going to be seen all the time, so you might not want something huge either.
What is your location in the UK?
SneakyStephan
Banned
Needs more info:
Do the fans turn on?
Are there any motherboard beeps? (if yes check your motherboard manual for error codes)
Does it post? Can you get into your bios?
Try removing your hard drive, all but one ram stick and your gpu (if you have an integrated gpu on your cpu) and see if it posts.
You troubleshoot by elimination until you find the part that is borked.
If you can't get it to post at all then try a different power supply, if it still doesn't then I guess it's probably the motherboard.
Hey man thanks for the reply.
yep I'm in the UK and this build was from http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/
I don't want to build as I'm super busy most of the time
But I want to play some of the PC games that I hear so much about. I was going to get a alienware alpha http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OYSC2TQ/
As its a small form PC and has its own UI. Apparently it can play all the latest games as well.
I don't know what to do :/
edit- oh and i was going to connect it with a Ethernet cable so WiFi doesn't matter.
Hey man thanks for the reply.
yep I'm in the UK and this build was from http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/
I don't want to build as I'm super busy most of the time
I was going to get a alienware alpha http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OYSC2TQ/
As its a small form PC and has its own UI. Apparently it can play all the latest games as well.
I don't know what to do :/
edit- oh and i was going to connect it with a Ethernet cable so WiFi doesn't matter.
The alienware alpha is more expensive due to the size of it, you pay more if you want smaller, just like laptops. At the same price your PC with the GTX 960 outclasses it by 50% or more (i believe the alpha has a GTX 750Ti - matches consoles in most cases).
The alpha comes with Steam OS, so its just like booting steam in big picture mode in Windows - thats how i have my PC setup too, and can browse my library/store etc with the 360 pad.
PCspecialist is fine to order from, they are reputable.
Im not an expert on where to get the best pre builts, so ill let someone else chime in here.
But again ill recommend taking an hour or two to just build the PC yourself. Better components, more bang for your buck, smaller form factor, aesthetically more pleasing.
- Status