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[RumblingRosco]

I've cleaned it out, and my case. It's now sitting at 77c in Witcher 3 at unlimited fps 1440p.
It's pretty quiet now, but I don't get why it's so hot still. Case is open as well.

My ambient is 22c as well.

It doesn't overclock either, 100mhz on core and it's doing 2ghz in overwatch menus and all sorts of artifacting.

60% fan speed is like an airplane taking off. I'm using 35% by 70c and 50% by 80c.

The default fan curve is bringing the temps down in Witcher 3 to 66c and boosting to 1911mhz.
But guys this is too loud! Imagine if your console sounded like this?!

You can get a kit to water cool it, or do it using an NZXT Kraken G12 plus almost any AIO cooler. Much quieter, but a decent amount of work.

 

[crimsondynamics]

I'm looking to upgrade my GT430 which only pulls PhysX duties.

The question is: is it even necessary?

Currently, in some PhysX-intensive games, I only get around 30-40fps when there's a lot of physics processing going on in certain games. Obviously, I'd like the number to fluctuate around 60fps.

The games I use PhysX with are the Arkham series, Mafia, a few I can't recall off the top of my head, and soon to be included, Borderlands 2.

I'm looking at a GT730 2GB GDDR5 to replace it. The question is, will it be enough? It looks to be about twice as powerful as a GPU, but I'm not sure about the PhysX bit.

The only caveat is the card needs to be single-slot. The heatsink can't occupy a second slot's worth of space.

Any suggestions welcome!

 

[LilJoka]

60% should still be 'relatively' quiet in the first place, but whatever.
There is no way to mod a pascal bios so we can assume that all voltage levels are as intented. How is the temperature at stock fan settings?
Did your friend maybe ever try to reapply thermalpaste (for whatever reason) and did it wrong (somehow)?

Edit: 66°C sounds about right and I'm not able to hear the gpu fans in my case. But maybe your fans are faulty. No way to tell without hearing them at stock speed.

And just for info. My Ps4pro is loud as shit.

Nah he only had it for a few months at most. Warranty sticker is still in tact.

Just seems surprising since TDP should be lower than my 970.

You can get a kit to water cool it, or do it using an NZXT Kraken G12 plus almost any AIO cooler. Much quieter, but a decent amount of work.

Can't I'm in a Fractal Node 304.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Can't I'm in a Fractal Node 304.

Oh yeah... uh. External mount the radiator? lol. Sorry. No great suggestion for this, but let us know what you end up doing!

 

[Sami+]

Oh that's cool, did you trade with a friend or did you find a really good deal?



Do you have any other games or HDMI cables to try? Also, is anything overclocked and have you tried updating or downgrading drivers?



I'm not quite sure what you mean by needing to spend more to enable more potential upgrades in the future? I presume you're talking about getting a higher-end platform like Intel's X299 or AMD's Threadripper platform?

Investing in these platforms don't necessarily enable more upgrades in the future unless you're talking about expanding memory and running more SSDs etc. Due their additional PCI-E lanes you may be able to run more things like SSDs, they also have more ram slots and quad channel memory so you can add over 64GB of ram.

If I was building a system to last 3+ years from now I'd be leaning towards building a system with 6+ cores, as more games are scaling past 4 cores and the software I use takes advantage of more than 4 cores. So AMD's 6+ core Ryzen CPUs or even Intel's 6+ core CPUs on X299 platform.

However, for CPUs on the mainstream platform I'd be looking towards a 6 core Ryzen or maybe even go all out and get an 8 core Ryzen versus Intel's 4 core i7s as it's offering more performance for the price compared to Intel's CPUs for pretty much everything but gaming. The Threadripper platform isn't available yet however it sounds like an incredible competitor to the X299 platform.

I think it would be best to invest in a platform which suits your needs today, and if it's performance improves in the future as the CPU's cores are better utilized than that's a plus.

I would wait to see what Coffee lake brings to the market, if it has 6 cores it maybe be one of the biggest advances Intel has made in the mainstream CPU market for a long time.

I've upgraded the driver, I'll try switching out the HDMI cable and trying a new game and seeing what happens.

 

[Sarcasm]

I'm looking to upgrade my GT430 which only pulls PhysX duties.

The question is: is it even necessary?

Currently, in some PhysX-intensive games, I only get around 30-40fps when there's a lot of physics processing going on in certain games. Obviously, I'd like the number to fluctuate around 60fps.

The games I use PhysX with are the Arkham series, Mafia, a few I can't recall off the top of my head, and soon to be included, Borderlands 2.

I'm looking at a GT730 2GB GDDR5 to replace it. The question is, will it be enough? It looks to be about twice as powerful as a GPU, but I'm not sure about the PhysX bit.

The only caveat is the card needs to be single-slot. The heatsink can't occupy a second slot's worth of space.

Any suggestions welcome!

So what CPU do you have?

 

[ISee]

Nah he only had it for a few months at most. Warranty sticker is still in tact.

Just seems surprising since TDP should be lower than my 970.



Can't I'm in a Fractal Node 304.

Rechecked temperature at stock fan speeds on my 1080 strix. Even overclocked the temperature stays below 70°C, but the card is only able to boost to 2050 MHz this way (which isn't a big deal in the first place). I can hear the GPU fans, but only if I press my ear directly against the case... That's of course not going to help you to fix your problem, but I think it's a clue that something is faulty on your card. Maybe ask your friend to call the shop where he bought the card and ask for a replacement (warranty).

Watch Dogs 2 recording (most GPU heavy game on my sdd currently). The game was running at native 1440p (no temporal filtering) and ultra settings to max out GPU load. Only recorded at 720p/30 though to save bandwidth.

 

[crimsondynamics]

So what CPU do you have?

Currently a Sandy Bridge i5-2500K.

 

[Mr Swine]

So what CPU should I buy for my sister as a birthday gift. She has a i3 7xxx CPU and a MSI Tomahwak mobo. Is there any different between a 7700k and a 6700k? I've heard that the 6700k runs a bit cooler than the 7700k. Or go with the 7600k but that will not last as good with no hyperthreading. If going with 7700k or 6700k, which air cooler should I get? It has to be small since the PC case is not wide enough for a air fan like my noctua 12 on Ryzen

 

[JonnyDBrit]

So what CPU should I buy for my sister as a birthday gift. She has a i3 7xxx CPU and a MSI Tomahwak mobo. Is there any different between a 7700k and a 6700k? I've heard that the 6700k runs a bit cooler than the 7700k. Or go with the 7600k but that will not last as good with no hyperthreading. If going with 7700k or 6700k, which air cooler should I get? It has to be small since the PC case is not wide enough for a air fan like my noctua 12 on Ryzen

Well, the 7700k would come with a pass on the DRM nonsense that currently restricts 4K streaming content on Netflix, and a full warranty. In terms of sheer game performance it would only be marginally better I believe, plus yeah, 6700k temps are generally lower. If she's not planning to overclock though then the temperature issue isn't really that bad to put up with. Depends on what you're willing to spend I suppose, since a 6700k can be gotten secondhand for a fair bit cheaper than a new 7700k.

As to the cooler/case issue, I presume you mean it needs to be short, rather than wide? What case is it?

 

[Mr Swine]

Well, the 7700k would come with a pass on the DRM nonsense that currently restricts 4K streaming content on Netflix, and a full warranty. In terms of sheer game performance it would only be marginally better I believe, plus yeah, 6700k temps are generally lower. If she's not planning to overclock though then the temperature issue isn't really that bad to put up with. Depends on what you're willing to spend I suppose, since a 6700k can be gotten secondhand for a fair bit cheaper than a new 7700k.

As to the cooler/case issue, I presume you mean it needs to be short, rather than wide? What case is it?

Well she doesn't use any streaming like Netflix or Hulu at 4K so that's a no biggie for her and she will never OC the CPU. I was thinking of a Noctua air cooler as they are really great.

Yeah I meant to say it has to be short!

 

[Skinpop]

Last i read, you can still get a free upgrade from win7 to win10.

Once you got your win10 key, you dont need to install win7 first

http://www.pcgamer.com/you-can-still-upgrade-to-windows-10-for-free-thanks-to-loophole/

how do I get the key though? Do I have to upgrade my current pc, then take that key and use it on my new build?

Is it possible to activate win 10 using my win 7 key? It's a retail license, not OEM.

 

[Ashsturm]

Looking to build a new PC to replace my 9 year old desktop, primarily for running VMs, specifically for networking labs but some gaming capability is a bonus. Just have a few questions

1. Is it a bad idea to harvest a 9 year old 500w PSU for use here? It been largely idle for the last two years
2. Planning to use Steam in-house streaming at times, been reading the nVidia cards are much more capable for encoding, have AMD caught up recently or should I be prioritizing nVidia?
3. Given the premium that mining is putting on top of the line cards at the moment is there a comfortable alternative that's less cutting edge but not subject to this? Gaming isn't the primary use and I'm only planning to use it for F1 2017 and PUBG (both on the more demanding end but happy to run at medium settings, 30fps and monitor 1920x1080).
4. Reuse old SSD or upgrade to M.2? Can't imagine there's a huge difference for regular usage?
5. I'm looking to go as small as possible (even if that means dumping my ATX PSU) but needing 32GB RAM with 2 DIMM slots on many MicroATX boards that means 2x16GB. Anything to be wary of there as opposed to 4x8GB?

Also considering just dumping the gaming aspect and getting an Intel NUC (hell, looks like Iris might even cope with F1 on minimum settings) but seems about the same price and less flexible

 

[LilJoka]

Rechecked temperature at stock fan speeds on my 1080 strix. Even overclocked the temperature stays below 70°C, but the card is only able to boost to 2050 MHz this way (which isn't a big deal in the first place). I can hear the GPU fans, but only if I press my ear directly against the case... That's of course not going to help you to fix your problem, but I think it's a clue that something is faulty on your card. Maybe ask your friend to call the shop where he bought the card and ask for a replacement (warranty).

Watch Dogs 2 recording (most GPU heavy game on my sdd currently). The game was running at native 1440p (no temporal filtering) and ultra settings to max out GPU load. Only recorded at 720p/30 though to save bandwidth.

I can't do more than 20mhz core OC, ends up at about 1930mhz core. Memory seems to get to 350mhz but haven't tested thoroughly. There is error correction so I'll need to spend more time on that else perf just drops.

Unlocking the power limit to 120% helped the core clock a little, adding voltage seems to do nothing, Asus GPU tweak reads 1012mv, I thought these cards go to 1090mv?

GTA V at 4K60 is pushing about 70c.
Overwatch 4K140 (75% scaling), also about 70c now with stock fan curve.

It's still a bit loud for my liking but let's see how it goes.

Can't seem to get my custom resolutions to be seen in games, I want to run 1700p and 1800p for some games, I think Witcher 3 could do 1700p60, 1600p has a fair amount of headroom left.

It's annoying I need GPU tweak tool and MSI AB now, the power limit isn't exposed in AB.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Looking to build a new PC to replace my 9 year old desktop, primarily for running VMs, specifically for networking labs but some gaming capability is a bonus. Just have a few questions

1. Is it a bad idea to harvest a 9 year old 500w PSU for use here? It been largely idle for the last two years
2. Planning to use Steam in-house streaming at times, been reading the nVidia cards are much more capable for encoding, have AMD caught up recently or should I be prioritizing nVidia?
3. Given the premium that mining is putting on top of the line cards at the moment is there a comfortable alternative that's less cutting edge but not subject to this? Gaming isn't the primary use and I'm only planning to use it for F1 2017 and PUBG (both on the more demanding end but happy to run at medium settings, 30fps and monitor 1920x1080).
4. Reuse old SSD or upgrade to M.2? Can't imagine there's a huge difference for regular usage?
5. I'm looking to go as small as possible (even if that means dumping my ATX PSU) but needing 32GB RAM with 2 DIMM slots on many MicroATX boards that means 2x16GB. Anything to be wary of there as opposed to 4x8GB?

Also considering just dumping the gaming aspect and getting an Intel NUC (hell, looks like Iris might even cope with F1 on minimum settings) but seems about the same price and less flexible

1) I'd recommend getting a new PSU. That's what I'd do, at least.
2) AMD cards are overpriced due to market conditions or just lacking in quality right now. Either wait a few weeks/months for Vega (AMD's new line) or get an Nvidia GPU.
3) A 1050 Ti or a 1060 3 GB (or 6 GB) might be what you need. Look at benchmarks and see if they fit your needs.
4) I'd re-use my old SSD. Hell, that's what I did for my most recent build.
5) 2x16 GB is fine. You might also want to look into mITX cases/boards. Fewer options, but smaller than mATX in almost all cases.

 

[Kadey]

How do I make it so that whenever I turn on my PC, stupid password doesn't come up? Now that I connected my PC to Win 10 Live it's annoying.

 

[kmfdmpig]

How do I make it so that whenever I turn on my PC, stupid password doesn't come up? Now that I connected my PC to Win 10 Live it's annoying.

I don't remember how I did it, but I think it was a registry setting. Google it and you'll find a number of different solutions that are meant to work. Most won't, but eventually you'll get it working.

 

[ISee]

I can't do more than 20mhz core OC, ends up at about 1930mhz core. Memory seems to get to 350mhz but haven't tested thoroughly. There is error correction so I'll need to spend more time on that else perf just drops.

Unlocking the power limit to 120% helped the core clock a little, adding voltage seems to do nothing, Asus GPU tweak reads 1012mv, I thought these cards go to 1090mv?

GTA V at 4K60 is pushing about 70c.
Overwatch 4K140 (75% scaling), also about 70c now with stock fan curve.

It's still a bit loud for my liking but let's see how it goes.

Can't seem to get my custom resolutions to be seen in games, I want to run 1700p and 1800p for some games, I think Witcher 3 could do 1700p60, 1600p has a fair amount of headroom left.

It's annoying I need GPU tweak tool and MSI AB now, the power limit isn't exposed in AB.

1080s can go up to 1093 mv, if you apply the max voltage, but only in certain circumstances. Voltage levels seems to be bound to power and temperature this time around and reaching a constant level of voltage is mostly impossible because of this (something that was doable on Maxwell). To hit 1093 mv on my 1080 power isn’t allowed to go above 110% and temperature needs to stay below 59°C, and that’s almost never the case. Some games/engines also demand more power than others, independent of GPU load (Witcher 3 is one of the worst culprits here). To get the maximum out of your OC I’d recommend setting a custom Voltage/Frequency curve instead of a flat offset.

Custom resolutions work fine for me (via the NVidia control panel), but I’m still on a bit older driver (382.53) and if I remember correctly 1800p/60 should be doable in Witcher 3 without having to sacrifice too many settings.

 

[kuYuri]

Yes I meant your hard drive, but also start looking into your memory. It could of course be something else though, but starting with thise two makes sense in your case. Just move or install the game to another drive. For memory try installing one module at once. You can also use software.

The event viewer could give you a clue what caused a crash if you look at the timestamp of the crash.

Finished performing some Memtests on my RAM (Corsair Vengeance DDR3). The concerning thing at first was that the tests kept freezing at first when I tried to test both sticks. So I did it one at a time, the one in DIMM2 first by itself, then the second in DIMM 4 by itself. It did not freeze doing these tests luckily. Afterwards, I tried both sticks together again and it didn't freeze that time either. It was an odd thing.

In all tests, I got no errors on the sticks. So my RAM seems fine right now.

What program do people typically use to tests hard drives or SSDs? I've got Windows installed on a Samsung 850 EVO 250GB.

 

[ISee]

Finished performing some Memtests on my RAM (Corsair Vengeance DDR3). The concerning thing at first was that the tests kept freezing at first when I tried to test both sticks. So I did it one at a time, the one in DIMM2 first by itself, then the second in DIMM 4 by itself. It did not freeze doing these tests luckily. Afterwards, I tried both sticks together again and it didn't freeze that time either. It was an odd thing.

In all tests, I got no errors on the sticks. So my RAM seems fine right now.

What program do people typically use to tests hard drives or SSDs? I've got Windows installed on a Samsung 850 EVO 250GB.

Honestly, just move/install the game on another drive and start it from there. That's the most easy and fastest solution right now.

 

[Croc]

so, excuse my ignorance with this stuff but I've just been browsing around PC stuff thinking about building my husband a PC and am a bit confused with the suggested PC builds in the OP.

The "Great" build says $180 for a GPU but the ones listed there all seem to be $350+, unless I'm missing something?

 

[Seraphis Cain]

Okay so, gonna be putting a new processor in my PC tomorrow (going from a Pentium G620 dual core to an i5-2500S quad core, pretty old I know but still a huge upgrade from what I have). Thing is, changing a processor is the one thing I've never done, where PC hardware upgrading is concerned. I've read a few guides and I think I'm ready, but I'm still a bit nervous about it. Any super important tips before I do this?

 

[JonnyDBrit]

so, excuse my ignorance with this stuff but I've just been browsing around PC stuff thinking about building my husband a PC and am a bit confused with the suggested PC builds in the OP.

The "Great" build says $180 for a GPU but the ones listed there all seem to be $350+, unless I'm missing something?

Cryptocurrency mining boom has utterly eaten up the supply of RX 470/570 and 480/580 cards, and this has subsequently shunted anyone looking for a 1080p60 capable card (or those desperate to get in on the boom) onto GTX 1060 supplies, which have subsequently been devoured as well. Result is massive price inflation on that general range.

 

[Phatosaurus]

so, excuse my ignorance with this stuff but I've just been browsing around PC stuff thinking about building my husband a PC and am a bit confused with the suggested PC builds in the OP.

The "Great" build says $180 for a GPU but the ones listed there all seem to be $350+, unless I'm missing something?

Crypto currency miners have been buying up those graphics cards causing the prices to spike.

Currently the best cheap/affordable GPU you'll find is probably the GTX 1050Ti.

Okay so, gonna be putting a new processor in my PC tomorrow (going from a Pentium G620 dual core to an i5-2500S quad core, pretty old I know but still a huge upgrade from what I have). Thing is, changing a processor is the one thing I've never done, where PC hardware upgrading is concerned. I've read a few guides and I think I'm ready, but I'm still a bit nervous about it. Any super important tips before I do this?

Just make sure you put it in the right way, that the heat spreader is clean and that you apply thermal paste.

Putting my Ryzen 1600 into it's socket was absolutely nerve wrecking for me. It was my first build, so I checked, cross checked then checked again, just to make sure it was all right.

 

[Croc]

Cryptocurrency mining boom has utterly eaten up the supply of RX 470/570 and 480/580 cards, and this has subsequently shunted anyone looking for a 1080p60 capable card (or those desperate to get in on the boom) onto GTX 1060 supplies, which have subsequently been devoured as well. Result is massive price inflation on that general range.

Crypto currency miners have been buying up those graphics cards causing the prices to spike.

Currently the best cheap/affordable GPU you'll find is probably the GTX 1050Ti.

Hmmmm, okay. So if I'm wanting to go with something like that build, would the GTX 1050Ti hold back the rest of it at all or would it be fine? Would this be something I could just wait out for prices to drop back down?

Sorry for so many questions lol

 

[Phatosaurus]

Hmmmm, okay. So if I'm wanting to go with something like that build, would the GTX 1050Ti hold back the rest of it at all or would it be fine? Would this be something I could just wait out for prices to drop back down?

Sorry for so many questions lol

Speaking as an owner of a 1050Ti, it'll be fine. 1080p/60FPS is more than doable with a few small graphical changes, like dropping a couple settings down to high or mid.

 

[JonnyDBrit]

Hmmmm, okay. So if I'm wanting to go with something like that build, would the GTX 1050Ti hold back the rest of it at all or would it be fine? Would this be something I could just wait out for prices to drop back down?

Sorry for so many questions lol

Speaking as an owner of a 1050Ti, it'll be fine. 1080p/60FPS is more than doable with a few small graphical changes, like dropping a couple settings down to high or mid.

Oher possibility would be picking up a used GTX 970, if willing to buy secondhand. Otherwise yeah, a 1050 Ti can at least do decently while new.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Speaking of my 1050Ti.

I got it earlier in the year instead of a 1060 (huge regret now), and I had it paired with a i5 2320 3Ghz. I was happy with it, but a couple games gave me some issues.

Ryse for instance, would run any where between 20-70FPS.
Since putting it into my new build with 1600, it's had a huge boost. It now plays completely smooth. I locked the frame rate with RTSS to 60 and it doesn't dip at all.

Gonna feel a bit emotional when I sell it and upgrade to a 1070/1080.

 

[RandomExpletive]

Uhh holy shit 27" is big. 1440p is big. Will report back on Freesync/144hz

Yep thats a good ass refreshrate with some good ass not tearing

Now I just need a decent 1440p graphics card... Lets hope we see some good black friday deals

 

[Booker.DeWitt]

Quick question guys. I bought the ryzen 5 1600 for my first PC build. I am deciding on which Mobo to get, but I will probably get the Asus strix b350.

Has anybody here tested this Mobo with any ddr4 ram and was able to obtain de speed of 2933 or 3200? It is very confusing and I get different answers . Some Corsair vengeance lpx work, others not. Thanks

 

[Kintaro]

Well, my 3rd 980 TI from EVGA just burnt out on me. RMAed the first two, but I think it might be Switch for a switch. I wasn't over clocking the card, it just up and quit while playing FFXIV.

Any suggestions for a good replacement that gives similar performance? EVGA had my trust over the years 1but this has soured me I game at 1540p and it's mainly MMOs and action games.

 

[RebornYeti]

I am once again looking to build myself a PC after going back and forth with the idea for literally years lol. But now I am serious and I want to build a decent rig for for gaming and streaming on Twitch/Beam. I went on PCPartPicker and literally just chose random things that would be compatible. The only things that I know I would want for sure are the CPU, Video Card and case. My question for you guys is: With a quick glance at the list below, is there anything that can be improved and still stay within that ~$1,000 price range?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: Also, if I'm missing anything detrimental to the build, please let me know. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - A320M-DGS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($115.88 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($178.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($145.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1039.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-25 23:53 EDT-0400

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

I am once again looking to build myself a PC after going back and forth with the idea for literally years lol. But now I am serious and I want to build a decent rig for for gaming and streaming on Twitch/Beam. I went on PCPartPicker and literally just chose random things that would be compatible. The only things that I know I would want for sure are the CPU, Video Card and case. My question for you guys is: With a quick glance at the list below, is there anything that can be improved and still stay within that ~$1,000 price range?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: Also, if I'm missing anything detrimental to the build, please let me know. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - A320M-DGS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($115.88 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($178.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($145.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1039.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-25 23:53 EDT-0400

Get a lower/cheaper PSU (500w is fine), find a cheaper Windows 10 key and replace the Samsung EVO with a SanDisk 480GB ($141 on Amazon).

Use the money you save on that to get a better video card.

Well, my 3rd 980 TI from EVGA just burnt out on me. RMAed the first two, but I think it might be Switch for a switch. I wasn't over clocking the card, it just up and quit while playing FFXIV.

Any suggestions for a good replacement that gives similar performance? EVGA had my trust over the years 1but this has soured me I game at 1540p and it's mainly MMOs and action games.

So, another 980Ti? I had the MSI TwinFrozr version of that card and it was a beast.

 

[Renekton]

What PlayALLtheGames said and

- Go from 1700 to 1600
- Drop the cooler and use bundled stock

This may give you enough legroom to up the GPU.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Quick question guys. I bought the ryzen 5 1600 for my first PC build. I am deciding on which Mobo to get, but I will probably get the Asus strix b350.

Has anybody here tested this Mobo with any ddr4 ram and was able to obtain de speed of 2933 or 3200? It is very confusing and I get different answers . Some Corsair vengeance lpx work, others not. Thanks

I've no idea about the ASUS boards, but I know the ASrock B350M Pro 4 board runs fine with my Cosair LPX RAM at 2933mhz. Just in case you're still open to different board options.

 

[RebornYeti]

Get a lower/cheaper PSU (500w is fine), find a cheaper Windows 10 key and replace the Samsung EVO with a SanDisk 480GB ($141 on Amazon).

Use the money you save on that to get a better video card.

What PlayALLtheGames said and

- Go from 1700 to 1600
- Drop the cooler and use bundled stock

This may give you enough legroom to up the GPU.

Awesome, thanks for the tips!

 

[Bloodember]

I am once again looking to build myself a PC after going back and forth with the idea for literally years lol. But now I am serious and I want to build a decent rig for for gaming and streaming on Twitch/Beam. I went on PCPartPicker and literally just chose random things that would be compatible. The only things that I know I would want for sure are the CPU, Video Card and case. My question for you guys is: With a quick glance at the list below, is there anything that can be improved and still stay within that ~$1,000 price range?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: Also, if I'm missing anything detrimental to the build, please let me know. Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - A320M-DGS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($115.88 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($178.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($145.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1039.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-25 23:53 EDT-0400

As what someone said above plus you don't need a CPU cooler, the 1700 comes with one. If you want an aftermarket cooler get something that is newer and better than the 212 evo. IMO stick with the 1700.

 

[ColdDeckEd]

Well, my 3rd 980 TI from EVGA just burnt out on me. RMAed the first two, but I think it might be Switch for a switch. I wasn't over clocking the card, it just up and quit while playing FFXIV.

Any suggestions for a good replacement that gives similar performance? EVGA had my trust over the years 1but this has soured me I game at 1540p and it's mainly MMOs and action games.

1070 is similar performance to a 980ti. 1080 is about 20% faster. If you can find a 1080 for a good price id start there. Maybe wait for vega? The smaller vega should give performance similar to the 980ti/1070.

If the 980ti is still under warranty you should still send it into evga and then you can sell it when it gets back to you.

 

[Vaux]

Quick question guys. I bought the ryzen 5 1600 for my first PC build. I am deciding on which Mobo to get, but I will probably get the Asus strix b350.

Has anybody here tested this Mobo with any ddr4 ram and was able to obtain de speed of 2933 or 3200? It is very confusing and I get different answers . Some Corsair vengeance lpx work, others not. Thanks

Im slowly building a new pc and already bought a 1700 cpu and the Asus Strix B350. I wondering too what ram do you guys recommend to achieve full 3200 speeds?

 

[BudokaiMR2]

So I have been having issues with my PC recently, and haven't been able to solve the issue on my own.

For some reason, my PC stopped activating (no new parts were added or changed) out of the blue with a generic "No operating system installed on this system" (Maybe not word-for-word but you get the gist.)

I figured this would be an easy fix by creating a recovery USB and booting to the bios, but here is the kicker. I can't get into my UEFI bios. Pressing the key to start Bios seems to work at first (I can see the small loading circle at the bottom but it just freezes).

I have never seen an issue like this before and without being able to enter the bios and change the boot device I am at a loss.

I have already tried changing the CMOS jumper to reset the bios, and that did get me a bit further than usual but I still can't get into the actual BIOS.

I haven't actually tried to remove the CMOS battery (as I have never done that before...) but is there a chance that could solve the problem even if using the CMOS jumper trick doesn't work?

I would rather not pay someone to fix the PC as I have a feeling it should be a simple fix.

I'm at work atm, but I will try to take some pics of the error screens later.

 

[ISee]

So I have been having issues with my PC recently, and haven't been able to solve the issue on my own.

For some reason, my PC stopped activating (no new parts were added or changed) out of the blue with a generic "No operating system installed on this system" (Maybe not word-for-word but you get the gist.)

I figured this would be an easy fix by creating a recovery USB and booting to the bios, but here is the kicker. I can't get into my UEFI bios. Pressing the key to start Bios seems to work at first (I can see the small loading circle at the bottom but it just freezes).

I have never seen an issue like this before and without being able to enter the bios and change the boot device.

I have already tried changing the CMOS jumper to reset the bios, and that did get me a bit further than usual but I still can't get into the actual BIOS.

I haven't actually tried to remove the CMOS battery (as I have never done that before...) but is there a chance that could solve the problem even if using the CMOS jumper trick doesn't work?

I would rather not pay someone to fix the PC as I have a feeling it should be a simple fix.

I'm at work atm, but I will try to take some pics of the error screens later.

Removing the battery is worth a try, if the problem is uefi/bios based (for example if something went wrong during overclocking). But your MB doesn't seem to recognize your boot drive and you already reset the bios with the jumper by connecting two pins. I'd try disconnecting all other drives from your mb and than try to boot again/enetering bios with just your boot drive connected (or no drive at all). If this doesn't work try different sata ports/drives (one by one).

But I think your MB might have gone faulty...

 

[BudokaiMR2]

Removing the battery is worth a try, if the problem is uefi/bios based (for example if something went wrong during overclocking). But your MB doesn't seem to recognize your boot drive and you already reset the bios with the jumper by connecting two pins. I'd try disconnecting all other drives from your mb and than try to boot again/enetering bios with just your boot drive connected (or no drive at all). If this doesn't work try different sata ports/drives (one by one).

But I think your MB might have gone faulty...

Thanks for the help.
I am probably gonna mess with it some tonight and hope it isn't the MB.
I did salvage the MB from a different PC so that might be the issue. It never gave me problems up until now though....

 

[Ploppee]

hey guys,

so my 2011 MBP has finally died a death and I'm feeling a bit lost in the world of 2017 laptops and was hoping you guys could help!

budget wise I only have around £1100 max. Needs to be a laptop and capable of handling fairly demanding design programmes (I'm a graphic designer).

I've found this site that lets you configure a laptop yourself and here's the specs -

Chassis & Display
Cosmos Series: 17.3" Matte Full HD IPS LED Widescreen (1920x1080)
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™ i7 Quad Core Processor 7700HQ (2.8GHz, 3.8GHz Turbo)
Memory (RAM)
16GB Corsair 2133MHz SODIMM DDR4 (1 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
INTEL® HD GRAPHICS 630 - 1.7GB Max DDR4 Video RAM - DirectX® 12
1st Hard Disk
500GB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SSD, SATA 6Gb/s (upto 540MB/sR | 520MB/sW)
Memory Card Reader
Integrated 6 in 1 Card Reader (SD /Mini SD/ SDHC / SDXC / MMC / RSMMC)
AC Adaptor
1 x 120W AC Adaptor
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre Cloverleaf UK Power Cable
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND
Sound Card
Intel 2 Channel High Def. Audio + SoundBlaster™ Cinema 3
Bluetooth & Wireless
GIGABIT LAN & WIRELESS INTEL® AC-8265 M.2 (867Mbps, 802.11AC) +BT 4.0
USB Options
1 x USB 3.0 PORT (Type C) + 2 x USB 3.0 PORTS + 1 x USB 2.0 PORT
Battery
Cosmos VI Series 6 Cell Lithium Ion Battery
Keyboard Language
SINGLE COLOUR BACKLIT UK KEYBOARD
Operating System
Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc DVD & Single Licence
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft® Office® 365
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Notebook Mouse
INTEGRATED 2 BUTTON TOUCHPAD MOUSE
Webcam
INTEGRATED 1MP HD WEBCAM
Warranty
3 Year Standard Warranty (1 Month Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)

All for £913 including delivery from this site - https://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/

has anyone used these guys before and can vouch for them? For the price I'm pretty tempted!

 

[RumblingRosco]

hey guys,

so my 2011 MBP has finally died a death and I'm feeling a bit lost in the world of 2017 laptops and was hoping you guys could help!

budget wise I only have around £1100 max. Needs to be a laptop and capable of handling fairly demanding design programmes (I'm a graphic designer).

I've found this site that lets you configure a laptop yourself and here's the specs -

has anyone used these guys before and can vouch for them? For the price I'm pretty tempted!

Not that you can't post here, but you might find more help in the laptop thread.

 

[Ladekabel]

So I might buy a new PC this year after all. At least for the most part.

Planning on buying a new case, PSU, CPU, motherboard and RAM. Maybe a CPU cooler if needed. Trying to save something with taking my SSD and my 970 over. My budget will probably around 600-700€.

My main questionmark is the CPU: Ryzen or Intel. I went to a shop and the clerk told me that for gaming Intel is still better than Ryzen.

PSU I don't know how strong it needs to be. Case would be nice if it had a window because I think it looks rad. Preferably on the right side but that seems kinda hard to come by.

And a little bit future proof because even if I use my 970 for a while longer I would like to put a 1070 or 1080 in it next year.

 

[StrongBlackVine]

So I might buy a new PC this year after all. At least for the most part.

Planning on buying a new case, PSU, CPU, motherboard and RAM. Maybe a CPU cooler if needed. Trying to save something with taking my SSD and my 970 over. My budget will probably around 600-700€.

My main questionmark is the CPU: Ryzen or Intel. I went to a shop and the clerk told me that for gaming Intel is still better than Ryzen.

PSU I don't know how strong it needs to be. Case would be nice if it had a window because I think it looks rad. Preferably on the right side but that seems kinda hard to come by.

And a little bit future proof because even if I use my 970 for a while longer I would like to put a 1070 or 1080 in it next year.

Intel does beat Ryzen in gaming performance, but the gap isn't big and Ryzen is a MUCH a much better value. Seeing that you are on a modest budget I would go for that Ryzen 5 1600. Great CPU for around $200.

 

[RumblingRosco]

So I might buy a new PC this year after all. At least for the most part.

Planning on buying a new case, PSU, CPU, motherboard and RAM. Maybe a CPU cooler if needed. Trying to save something with taking my SSD and my 970 over. My budget will probably around 600-700€.

My main questionmark is the CPU: Ryzen or Intel. I went to a shop and the clerk told me that for gaming Intel is still better than Ryzen.

PSU I don't know how strong it needs to be. Case would be nice if it had a window because I think it looks rad. Preferably on the right side but that seems kinda hard to come by.

And a little bit future proof because even if I use my 970 for a while longer I would like to put a 1070 or 1080 in it next year.

Intel does outperform Ryzen in many games, but that gap seems to be closing. I think it was a 15-20% improvement at Ryzen's launch, but we're largely talking ~10% or less on some recent benchmarks. Ryzen is considered to be better at basically anything that can use more than 2-4 cores (video rendering, streaming, etc). It's also considered better for "future proofing" because the AM4 platform should stick around for at least 3 more years whereas Intel's current LGA1151 platform is expected to lose support in a year or so, I think. So you can more easily upgrade if you go the Ryzen route, or so the rumors state. Also, of course, all those extra cores/threads on Ryzen are definitely more future proof than Intel.

But, if you're only interested in gaming and definitely want the best experience right now and in the short-term, Intel would probably be the way to go.

Added bonus: The Ryzen 1600 and 1700 come with a good cooler that you can probably use and not need to worry about buying an aftermarket CPU cooler, which should save you some cash.

For the power supply (PSU), put all of your components in PCPartPicker.com and at the top right it will tell you your wattage needs. Make sure you're at least 100w above that and you should be good. In general, most single-GPU systems can be safe with a 500w power supply, but I personally prefer to grab a 550-600w just to give a bit of extra coverage. The most important thing besides wattage is getting a good PSU; find a good brand and then double-check ratings/reviews/tests on that PSU.

You should start by finding a case size you want. ATX are the largest, mATX tend to run a bit smaller, and mITX are by far the smallest. Then go to Newegg.com and sort by that size and see what looks nice. I have a Thermaltake Core V21 that I got for $35 after rebate and it's nice because you can move the side panel window around to either side or the top even if you want; it's a mATX case and is overall great for the price, but lacks some benefits of pricier cases (this case has pretty bad cable management options, IMO).

 

[Dibbs]

Nice to see some Ryzen discussion. I'm thinking of getting a Ryzen 5 1600 as well, although I have no clue what motherboard I should chose. Suggestions?

Choosing motherboard is the hardest decision for me since I started building my own PCs back in 2003 (during the AMD Athlon days btw), I don't really know what to look for besides the obvious things such as CPU socket etc.

 

[Booker.DeWitt]

I've no idea about the ASUS boards, but I know the ASrock B350M Pro 4 board runs fine with my Cosair LPX RAM at 2933mhz. Just in case you're still open to different board options.

what is your ram specifically? ddr4 3000? 3200? hynix?

 

[Booker.DeWitt]

Nice to see some Ryzen discussion. I'm thinking of getting a Ryzen 5 1600 as well, although I have no clue what motherboard I should chose. Suggestions?

Choosing motherboard is the hardest decision for me since I started building my own PCs back in 2003 (during the AMD Athlon days btw), I don't really know what to look for besides the obvious things such as CPU socket etc.

if you don't plan to use more than 1 GPU, B350 boards are the best bang for you buck. I did a lot of research myself, and I will byu the asus b350 strix. great looking board, and has more features than the regular b350 such as better sound, rgb lighting, etc..