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[Sändersson]

Looking for any tips to get a stable cpu oc.

So after delidling my 7700k the temps are no longer a problem, but I cant seem to get stable 5ghz out of it. My vcore is set at 1.41 from bios and hwmonitor shows 1.42 as maxinum vcore under load (dont know if it trustworthy or not.) I can boot to windows no problem and running AIDA poses no problems, but playing a game of bf1 almost always freezes the pc. If I lower my vcore and clock to 4.9ghz I have no problems. I was wondering if for example lowering ram speeds from 3200mhz to something lower could help or is the tradeoff not worth it or do they even affect each other?

 

[Sändersson]

I want to build another PC just for gaming... on a TV/Projector. (1080p for now).

What i have right now is an HP Compaq Elite 8300 i7 3770 16gb RAM, which i had added a low-profile MSI GTX 1050ti (only graphic card that fit in that small case)

I used it mostly for emulators (Like CEMU) and games that isn't too GPU heavy... I can't even get to play Street Fighter V and Tekken at max setting

Would you guys recommended that i go with an I7 7700k or a AMD 1700 for my next build? I will of course change the case and the GPU for something more powerful.

Im using 7700k and I have been mostly satisfied. Now if you want to oc it and get the most out of it, you will have to deliddle it because the temps are out of this world otherwise. With kraken x62 AIO at 4.9 I was hitting 100c. Before deliddle I had to run it at 4.7ghz to keep temps under high 80's (c). So in other words I was actually better off with my last processor (6700k) which managed to hit 4.7ghz with temps in the mid 70's.

Cant comment anything about the amd processor unfortunately.

 

[Skinpop]

What is most likely to reduce them? Or is it just something we have to deal with? Not all games suffer with this issue, but I'd say it's one of the more common performance issues I run into.

your ram can only do so much in a unit of time so it doesn't matter how fast your storage is if the bandwidth already is saturated. basically what I'm saying is that if you are playing a game and already have a sata SSD I think it's unlikely that storage access is the bottleneck.

 

[TC McQueen]

I want to build another PC just for gaming... on a TV/Projector. (1080p for now).

What i have right now is an HP Compaq Elite 8300 i7 3770 16gb RAM, which i had added a low-profile MSI GTX 1050ti (only graphic card that fit in that small case)

I used it mostly for emulators (Like CEMU) and games that isn't too GPU heavy... I can't even get to play Street Fighter V and Tekken at max setting

Would you guys recommended that i go with an I7 7700k or a AMD 1700 for my next build? I will of course change the case and the GPU for something more powerful.

I'd back down to a Ryzen 5 1600 and spend the extra money on the RAM, since prices are super high now.

 

[Deleted member 325805]

your ram can only do so much in a unit of time so it doesn't matter how fast your storage is if the bandwidth already is saturated. basically what I'm saying is that if you are playing a game and already have a sata SSD I think it's unlikely that storage access is the bottleneck.

My setup is 3570k @ 4.3GHz, GTX 970, 16GB DDR3 2133MHz, Samsung Evo 850, 750w Corsair PSU, Windows 10. I'll give you an example, in Diablo III my frame rate is 100+ but if I vault (fast movement ability if you don't play it) through the map I will get these split second pauses, it feels like the game hitches while it loads the new enemies etc. Another example is Deus Ex: Mankind Divided, absolutely no trouble hitting 60fps+ but running through the town caused the game to have the same split second pauses. When this occurs the frame rate does drop, but I think that's more a symptom of the pauses, not the cause.

 

[Datwheezy]

How is this for a budget build? I'm almost debating just leaving in my old ass HD6870 for the time being, just to wait for graphics card prices to stabilize, because at this point I feel like almost anything above a 1050ti isnt worth the price right now.

PCPartPicker part list

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($197.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($71.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($111.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.41 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card ($149.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - BQ 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus - VH242H 23.6" 1920x1080 Monitor (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $701.14

 

[digitalrelic]

Question for you guys...

So I have my gaming PC in a gaming den hooked up via displayport to my 34" Ultrawide G-Sync display.

I'd like to run an hdmi cable from my PC to my 4K television, but I don't want to use the displays simultaneously. I want to sometimes play games on a single screen at 21:9 100hz, and other times I want to play on a single screen at 4k 60hz.

Is this easily doable?

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

Im using 7700k and I have been mostly satisfied. Now if you want to oc it and get the most out of it, you will have to deliddle it because the temps are out of this world otherwise.

This isn't true for every single chip. Before I put my 7700k on water, I ran some heavy OC'ing tests on air (4.8 and even 5.0Ghz) and temps were what you'd expect for those clocks.

De-lidding was a solid improvement and I was going to do it regardless before going on water but I could be using it today on air without de-lidding, no problem.

What I would say is be ready to potentially do it if your temps are absurdly high but I bet it'll be fine.

 

[Skinpop]

My setup is 3570k @ 4.3GHz, GTX 970, 16GB DDR3 2133MHz, Samsung Evo 850, 750w Corsair PSU, Windows 10. I'll give you an example, in Diablo III my frame rate is 100+ but if I vault (fast movement ability if you don't play it) through the map I will get these split second pauses, it feels like the game hitches while it loads the new enemies etc. Another example is Deus Ex: Mankind Divided, absolutely no trouble hitting 60fps+ but running through the town caused the game to have the same split second pauses. When this occurs the frame rate does drop, but I think that's more a symptom of the pauses, not the cause.

there could be a million reasons for stutter like that, especially when you start to do crazy stuff.

 

[big fake]

hey guys was wondering what you guys think I should upgrade from my 8GB single channel 2133MHz DDR4 to:

2400MHz Quad Channel 16GB RAM ($148 Canadian) or 3000MHz 16GB Dual Channel ($165 Canadian)

Please let me know guys! Thank!!

 

[Arex]

what are good 120mm fans for bottom/ limited side intake other than noctuas? (my case will be the Inwin 301)

Can't go wrong with noctuas really but the color sucks lol. Are there any good alternatives?

RGB will be a plus, but I'd like similar or lower priced than noctua fans.

 

[Sändersson]

This isn't true for every single chip.

Sure, just like some chips clock beyond 5ghz and some dont. But its not like these temp problems are obscure so I though id warn in advance. Better safe than sorry.

 

[e90Mark]

what are good 120mm fans for bottom/ limited side intake other than noctuas? (my case will be the Inwin 301)

Can't go wrong with noctuas really but the color sucks lol. Are there any good alternatives?

RGB will be a plus, but I'd like similar or lower priced than noctua fans.

Check out the Corsair line. I use a few of the Mag-Lev as well as their AF and SP lines in 120.

 

[RumblingRosco]

So this is my completed build that I started buying parts for in May and wrapped up last weekend. I'm super happy with it, but of course the itch to continue to build lives on... so I'm looking for suggestions for upgrades down the road. My next (and likely relatively soon) purchase will be a Dell 27" or more likely 24" 1440p/144Hz/GSync monitor as I'm still running on my 1080p/60Hz at the moment, but after that I'm not so sure.I'm strongly considering getting a 500 GB or larger SSD to replace my 500 GB HDD in there as my next potential upgrade. Any other ideas or thoughts?

Oh, and the only LED lights in there are a single blue LED showing the power is on near the outside power button and four not-too-bright red LEDs on each corner of the motherboard. I'm not a big fan of flashy stuff.

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (Purchased For $309.00)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler Adapter: AMD AM4 Upgrade kit (RR-ACCY-AM4B-R1) (Purchased For $0.99)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $15.00)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $90.00)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card (Purchased For $672.00)
GPU Cooler: Corsair - H90 94.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $97.00)
GPU Cooler Bracket: NZXT RL-KRG12-B1 Kraken G12 GPU Matte Black (Purchased For $33.00)
Storage: Kingston - SSDNow UV400 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 2.5TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $55.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $35.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - M12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $40.00)
Case Fan: Thermaltake - FN2020N121301 230mm Fan (Purchased For $0.00)
Other: Evercool EC-DF001 17.72" Supports 5 PWM Fans Black Braided Cable (Purchased For $9.00)
Other: Noctua NA-SRC7 Low-Noise Adaptors 4-pin PWM (Purchased For $9.00)
Total: $1373.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Everything listed as "$0.00" is from my old build, and the prices shown are the final prices I paid including taxes/rebates/shipping/coupons.

 

[Burgess_101]

I have a bit of a dilemma.

I have an ASUS MG279Q that I love but recently a little bug died inside the screen...

So what I am going to do is either try and get a replacement or a refund.

Now I am looking at different monitors, I was looking at ultrawide 3440x1440 monitors but I don't think I could give up 144hz, just using it in Windows is so nice.

I don't know what to do.

 

[Dr.Acula]

Motherboard: MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $15.00)

Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $90.00)

Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card (Purchased For $672.00)

Yeesh, crazy deals, jealous.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Yeesh, crazy deals, jealous.

I should clarify.

The motherboard was an open box for about $63, but with the Microcenter combo deal, it dropped down to $13 + tax. It was literally a complete kit with no physical defects and nothing missing.

The RAM was on Ebay brand new for $105, but Ebay had some targeted $15 off coupon I used that dropped it down to $90.

The 1080 Ti was around $705 from Jet.com, but then I stacked a $20 off coupon from Jet and a 10% back rebate from the Ibotta app which netted me ~$70 off cash back.

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

My setup is 3570k @ 4.3GHz, GTX 970, 16GB DDR3 2133MHz, Samsung Evo 850, 750w Corsair PSU, Windows 10. I'll give you an example, in Diablo III my frame rate is 100+ but if I vault (fast movement ability if you don't play it) through the map I will get these split second pauses, it feels like the game hitches while it loads the new enemies etc. Another example is Deus Ex: Mankind Divided, absolutely no trouble hitting 60fps+ but running through the town caused the game to have the same split second pauses. When this occurs the frame rate does drop, but I think that's more a symptom of the pauses, not the cause.

Put the game in windowed mode and then fire up some monitoring utilities and watch your CPU and GPU stats when the stutters happen; see if that hints at something.

Sure, just like some chips clock beyond 5ghz and some dont. But its not like these temp problems are obscure so I though id warn in advance. Better safe than sorry.

Totally understand.

 

[Snakethesniper]

So, it depends on your case first of all. Are you going to re-use your current case? If so, do you know if it fits ATX, mATX, or mITX motherboards? My guess is that it is a "full-size" case which would hold an ATX motherboard.

Assuming that's true, honestly, there are a ton of options for Intel's LGA1151 and AMD's AM4 chipsets. You'll kind of need to decide what your goals are and price range. I personally have an MSI B350M Gaming Pro which is a mATX-sized motherboard that is on the fairly low-end in terms of both cost and features, and it's still perfectly workable for my Ryzen 1700 build, IMO. On the other hand, you can get a full ATX-sized motherboard for your Ryzen, something like this which is an X370 (basically a more feature-filled motherboard than most B350 motherboards). It has a few features that can be convenient such as built-in Wifi, USB-C ports, and multiple M.2 ports for newer SSDs.

I guess what I'm saying is, there are tons of motherboards within the $70-$250 price range. The first thing I'd do is decide on a size or budget, then decide the other, then start looking at some of the features. Gigabyte, ASRock, ASUS, and MSI are probably the most well-known and trusted brands, but other ones (e.g., Biostar) can be OK too.

I don't know if it's considered full but it should support an ATX

If I want to upgrade my CPU and RAM, what good choices are there?
At the moment I have an i5-2500 (not k) and 8 GB Ram.
The case is a HAF 900 (http://us.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/haf-912.html) it supports a ATX motherboard so it shouldn't be a problem.

I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B010T6DCBS/ (i5 6600K) and https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0126R3QPA/ but I'm no expert!
This for RAM : https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0134EW7G8/ but I guess that I should go with a low profile one?

Also, what good CPU Cooler (air- not liquid) do you suggest?

edit: forgot, right now I have a GTX970 4 GB and a PSU of 650W (it should suffice right?)

 

[Booker.DeWitt]

guys, I am so excited.


I just finalized the purchase of my last PC component. This will be my first PC build EVER, really nervous and excited. I tried to get components from multiple retailers for the past 3 weeks,and I was able to get a decent deal on most of the parts.

I probably have $50 bucks on rebate waiting for me(that I already included on what I spent).

I just need to find a decent monitor, but I will use an old one for now while I find a decent deal.

What do you guys say?

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FsLZTH
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FsLZTH/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $185.00)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $82.00)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (Purchased For $140.00)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $147.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (Purchased For $465.00)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $75.00)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $80.00)
Total: $1174.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-27 16:10 EDT-0400

Also, what is the best place to buy a genuine windows 10 key online? I was checking some places that sell for $20-30. is that reliable?

THANK YOU FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS!.

 

[kmfdmpig]

I have a bit of a dilemma.

I have an ASUS MG279Q that I love but recently a little bug died inside the screen...

So what I am going to do is either try and get a replacement or a refund.

Now I am looking at different monitors, I was looking at ultrawide 3440x1440 monitors but I don't think I could give up 144hz, just using it in Windows is so nice.

I don't know what to do.

There's no way to just shake it out of there? If it got into the gap I'd think it would be possible to get it out.

 

[RebornYeti]

I'm having trouble finding a Windows 10 64-bit key for less than $90. Anyone know of anywhere that I can get it for any less? If not, I guess I'll just bite the bullet.

 

[RumblingRosco]

I'm having trouble finding a Windows 10 64-bit key for less than $90. Anyone know of anywhere that I can get it for any less? If not, I guess I'll just bite the bullet.

Play-Asia sells them for about $20, but there's no guarantee those keys won't be revoked by Microsoft at a later date or aren't stolen/abusing end-user license agreements at the minimum.

 

[RebornYeti]

Play-Asia sells them for about $20, but there's no guarantee those keys won't be revoked by Microsoft at a later date or aren't stolen/abusing end-user license agreements at the minimum.

Hmmm.. sounds a bit sketchy. I wonder what the success rate is with the keys sold from Play-Asia. $20 is very tempting though lol

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

Guys, just set up my new water-cooling system. What do you think?

Just kidding; not me. Guy posted this on another forum. Everybody in the thread is still trying to figure out what the fuck this is for.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Guys, just set up my new water-cooling system. What do you think?



Just kidding; not me. Guy posted this on another forum. Everybody in the thread is still trying to figure out what the fuck this is for.

Looks like a mining rig.

 

[kuYuri]

Guys, just set up my new water-cooling system. What do you think?



Just kidding; not me. Guy posted this on another forum. Everybody in the thread is still trying to figure out what the fuck this is for.

It looks like a server of some sort.

 

[kevin1025]

Guys, just set up my new water-cooling system. What do you think?



Just kidding; not me. Guy posted this on another forum. Everybody in the thread is still trying to figure out what the fuck this is for.

Reminds me of the server room they had in the garage in Silicon Valley.

 

[Burgess_101]

There's no way to just shake it out of there? If it got into the gap I'd think it would be possible to get it out.

I've tried it all, no getting out of there. Maybe in a while and it decomposes it may fall down but I work from home on my PC and it's just annoying the hell out of me.

Amazon refunded me so I have now got an ultrawide lined up that I'm going to get.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Guys, just set up my new water-cooling system. What do you think?



Just kidding; not me. Guy posted this on another forum. Everybody in the thread is still trying to figure out what the fuck this is for.

Looks like a standard i7 overclocking rig.

 

[Jezbollah]

Looks like a mining rig.

That is indeed a cryptocurrency mining rig. And a small one at that.

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

That is indeed a cryptocurrency mining rig. And a small one at that.

Ah ok; makes sense. There was no other info posted about it except this pic.

 

[BudokaiMR2]

Removing the battery is worth a try, if the problem is uefi/bios based (for example if something went wrong during overclocking). But your MB doesn't seem to recognize your boot drive and you already reset the bios with the jumper by connecting two pins. I'd try disconnecting all other drives from your mb and than try to boot again/enetering bios with just your boot drive connected (or no drive at all). If this doesn't work try different sata ports/drives (one by one).

But I think your MB might have gone faulty...

Well, it doesn't seem to be the MB, or at least that wasn't the main problem.
Something was just fishy with the OS install on my SSD.

I managed to get it up on life support at least by switching drives and running a Windows repair, but could use some quick advice.
The only way I got it up and running was disconnecting my SSD completely and reinstalling on an old drive. But that drive is honestly on its last legs so I want to reinstall my OS back on the SSD.

Does it matter at all which SATA port I plug the SSD into? Can't remember if there are any rules around that.

I hope I can actually get into my bios as I forgot to try once I got the Windows repair working.

 

[Fou-Lu]

I was looking at getting something to replace my current PC instead of lugging it back across the country when I move again. It's getting old-ish anyway (7970 and i5 2500k), but it seems like building a PC in Canada right now is disgustingly expensive.

 

[kevin1025]

I was looking at getting something to replace my current PC instead of lugging it back across the country when I move again. It's getting old-ish anyway (7970 and i5 2500k), but it seems like building a PC in Canada right now is disgustingly expensive.

I'm in the same sort of situation (coming from 3570k). You can bring down the cost significantly if you go Ryzen, though, that's the route I'm going to take. It's nearly a $100-200 difference.

Edit: But yeah, prices here are looking a little rough.

 

[OraleeWey]

Is this a legit MS website? https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=KB4025376

My PC is having issues installing


2017-07 Security Update for Adobe Flash Player for Windows 10 Version 1703 for x64-based Systems (KB4025376)

and

2017-06 Cumulative Update for Windows 10 Version 1703 for x64-based Systems (KB4022725)

I'm hoping I can manually download them

 

[darkslayer101]

So I'm just on the precipice of building my first rig and debating on a good design. Then I figured I would make a "white wolf" (Witcher) themed PC.

I was thinking white NZXT elite and Aorus Gaming 5 mobo or maybe Msi mpower titanium mobo.
I already have my gpu (Duke 1080).
Thinking of going white exterior with orange/amber-esque rgb for the mobo lights app. (It looks like mpower doesn't have rgb but the white finish may work)

What does Gaf think about this? I am having trouble picturing the final product since I couldn't find any rigs that matched this combo and I fear that it would come out poorly.

 

[Sygma]

Hey there ! Any news regarding the price of upcoming x27 predator ? Been hesitating for so long but kinda want a 4k g sync monitor to go with my gtx 1080 / ps4 pro

 

[Kadey]

Looks like a mining rig.

I think that's exactly what it is.

Someone at work was talking about it to me. People buying many GPUs and running it at 100% 24/7 until it dies and rinse and repeat.

 

[Samaritan]

I'm going to soon be putting together a Ryzen build for my girlfriend, and since I got her a case with a beautiful tempered glass side panel, I want to light it tastefully. However, with my own builds in the past, I've always been content with a simple black box, so I've never actually dipped my toes into the world of RGB light strips and fans before.

It seems like there are mainly two choices when it comes to light strips and fans: Corsair with their Lightning Node PRO, and NZXT with their Hue+. Asus also has their Aura software, but that seems rather limited compared to Corsair and NZXT's offerings.

So I'm looking for someone to kind of steer me, in the right direction. It's difficult to figure out which brand to go with for their lighting solutions. Any advice would be most appreciated!

 

[Raxious]

So I've had my current PC for almost 10 years ( replaced the GPU and RAM ), and am currently using an i7-920, GTX 670 and 12GB DDR3 Memory. Now as my PC is quite ancient, I'm looking into getting myself a new PC. I can still play some of the newer games, for example, PUBG runs somewhere between 40 - 60fps with every single setting on low.

So my aim is to buy a PC that's future proof, at least for the next few years. A friend ended up recommending me the following spec:

Now you might be wondering why there's no GPU. The reason it's missing is that I'm buying the parts in two stages. With the first stage consisting of what you see on the list, and the GPU is to be bought a month later ( hopefully prices drop with the whole crypto mining thing ). Anyhow, the card I'm looking at right now is a Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6GB.

My budget is about 1000 euro, and this package would be around 930. I'm willing to spend a little bit more, but I don't have the funds to suddenly up the budget by 50%.

Now here's the thing. After reading some stuff about the Ryzen processors, it seems that they're worse than Intel when it comes to single core programs, but performs better with software that uses multiple cores. The PC is primarily used for gaming and school/work stuff ( Word, Excel, etc.). However, due to the price difference, is switching to an Intel processor worth the extra investment? From some of the vids and reviews I've seen, the difference in FPS isn't that big, or is that incorrect?

Also, would the Ryzen 7 be a good pick as well? I'd be willing to invest the extra 100 euro's if it means much better performance.

 

[Flying Toaster]

I think that's exactly what it is.

Someone at work was talking about it to me. People buying many GPUs and running it at 100% 24/7 until it dies and rinse and repeat.

It is absolutely stupid how much people spend on mining. I had a co-worker ages ago right when bitcoin hit that started building mining rigs in his garage and then moved them into his family room because the garage was getting too hot in the summers.

Monitors... How many people are currently running multi monitor setups and what are your prefered monitors?

 

[Frankfurter]

So I've had my current PC for almost 10 years ( replaced the GPU and RAM ), and am currently using an i7-920, GTX 670 and 12GB DDR3 Memory. Now as my PC is quite ancient, I'm looking into getting myself a new PC. I can still play some of the newer games, for example, PUBG runs somewhere between 40 - 60fps with every single setting on low.

So my aim is to buy a PC that's future proof, at least for the next few years. A friend ended up recommending me the following spec:

Now you might be wondering why there's no GPU. The reason it's missing is that I'm buying the parts in two stages. With the first stage consisting of what you see on the list, and the GPU is to be bought a month later ( hopefully prices drop with the whole crypto mining thing ). Anyhow, the card I'm looking at right now is a Gigabyte Geforce GTX 1060 G1 Gaming 6GB.

My budget is about 1000 euro, and this package would be around 930. I'm willing to spend a little bit more, but I don't have the funds to suddenly up the budget by 50%.

Now here's the thing. After reading some stuff about the Ryzen processors, it seems that they're worse than Intel when it comes to single core programs, but performs better with software that uses multiple cores. The PC is primarily used for gaming and school/work stuff ( Word, Excel, etc.). However, due to the price difference, is switching to an Intel processor worth the extra investment? From some of the vids and reviews I've seen, the difference in FPS isn't that big, or is that incorrect?

Also, would the Ryzen 7 be a good pick as well? I'd be willing to invest the extra 100 euro's if it means much better performance.

In terms of the CPU, you have basically picked the one that has the price/performance ratio. It's roughly on par with its Intel counterpart (i5 7500) in terms of games, is way better than it in anything but games, can be overclocked, has a decent cooler included and you have the advantage of 6 cores / 12 threads (i.e. more future-proof).

 

[ChazGW7]

In a bit of a pickle right now with my PC. When I purchased all my parts in November 2014, I purchased one of Gigabyte's Ultra Durable Black Edition motherboards that allows you to upgrade to the next generation of motherboards within 3 years of purchase. That will expire this November.

If I do this, I can upgrade to a Gigabyte Z270X-UD3. But I would also have to upgrade my i7-4790K and RAM which will cost me around £430 if I was to purchase an i7-7700K. I mean, is that really worth the cost? My alternative option is to skip the upgrade, and buy a 1080ti to replace my 980ti.

From what I gather, the 7700k is only 10-15% faster than the 4790k? I purchased this motherboard assuming CPU's would have come a lot further but it seems even after 3 years, the 4790k is still perfectly fine for gaming. Im leaning towards the GPU upgrade honestly, even if I miss out on a "free" Z270X motherboard...

Any thoughts on this? Where is my money better spent? I can't afford to do both.

EDIT: To clarify, I have to give Gigabyte my current motherboard to receive a new one. Hence why I would have to upgrade other components.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Just bought an Acer Predator XB271H. 27 inch, 144hz with GSync. Next up on my upgrade list, either a GTX 1070 for around £350 or a 1080 for around £440, still undecided and an extra 8Gb of 3000mhz RAM.

 

[nightmare-slain]

In a bit of a pickle right now with my PC. When I purchased all my parts in November 2014, I purchased one of Gigabyte's Ultra Durable Black Edition motherboards that allows you to upgrade to the next generation of motherboards within 3 years of purchase. That will expire this November.

If I do this, I can upgrade to a Gigabyte Z270X-UD3. But I would also have to upgrade my i7-4790K and RAM which will cost me around £430 if I was to purchase an i7-7700K. I mean, is that really worth the cost? My alternative option is to skip the upgrade, and buy a 1080ti to replace my 980ti.

From what I gather, the 7700k is only 10-15% faster than the 4790k? I purchased this motherboard assuming CPU's would have come a lot further but it seems even after 3 years, the 4790k is still perfectly fine for gaming. Im leaning towards the GPU upgrade honestly, even if I miss out on a "free" Z270X motherboard...

Any thoughts on this? Where is my money better spent? I can't afford to do both.

EDIT: To clarify, I have to give Gigabyte my current motherboard to receive a new one. Hence why I would have to upgrade other components.

yeah i'd definitely stick with your CPU and just upgrade to a 1080 ti. like you say the 4790K is still great for gaming. you'll see a much bigger difference getting a new GPU instead.

Just bought an Acer Predator XB271H. 27 inch, 144hz with GSync. Next up on my upgrade list, either a GTX 1070 for around £350 or a 1080 for around £440, still undecided and an extra 8Gb of 3000mhz RAM.

good luck with that! you'll be waiting a while. i paid £440 for my 1070 when it came out and it's at £480 now from the same place i bought it.

 

[Drama Zed Nod]

Hi Guys,

A little help if you would be so kind.

I'm on the verge of buying this:

GeForce GTX 1080Ti ROG Strix OC

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/asus...dr5x-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-410-as.html

It will be to replace my 780Ti SLI cards.

The rest of my specs:

4770k Overclocked at 4.4 (I have this water cooled using a Corsair H100i)
16gb DDR3 RAM @ 2400 MHz
1440p G-Sync Monitor (Asus ROG Swift)
Corsair AX 860i Power Supply
Samsung 840 EVO SSD

Questions:

Is the rest of my rig OK to just install this new card?

How much improvement will i see in general (i understand i'm going fro 2 cards to 1) ?

Is there any bottlenecks in my machine that will seriously effect performance?

I really appreciate any help you can give before i shell out the cash : )

 

[Phatosaurus]

yeah i'd definitely stick with your CPU and just upgrade to a 1080 ti. like you say the 4790K is still great for gaming. you'll see a much bigger difference getting a new GPU instead.



good luck with that! you'll be waiting a while. i paid £440 for my 1070 when it came out and it's at £480 now from the same place i bought it.

Newegg already have them listed at those prices. They're selling a Gigabyte 1080 G1 right now for £397 plus £26 shipping.

The cheapest 1070 on there right now is also a Gigabyte for £346 plus £26 shipping, but they've been as low as £330.

 

[ChazGW7]

yeah i'd definitely stick with your CPU and just upgrade to a 1080 ti. like you say the 4790K is still great for gaming. you'll see a much bigger difference getting a new GPU instead.

Thanks, I think I will do that!

Newegg already have them listed at those prices. They're selling a Gigabyte 1080 G1 right now for £397 plus £26 shipping.

The cheapest 1070 on there right now is also a Gigabyte for £346 plus £26 shipping, but they've been as low as £330.

That is excluding VAT though, unfortunately. Going through the order process turns that £346 to £445.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Thanks, I think I will do that!



That is excluding VAT though, unfortunately. Going through the order process turns that £346 to £445.

Sweet jesus. Thanks, I was wondering why they were so cheap.

Edit: Still, works out at £500 for the 1080, which is still £50 cheaper than Amazon right now.