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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

I run 2x 7970 in crossfire, and I'm getting sick of them having lacking support for games at launch. No more multi card for me. I'm seriously considering buying a GTX1070 but I feel like the 2xxx series of cards coming from Nvidia will arrive soon, it's the endless debate of do I wait or not. I shouldn't even make this post because who the heck knows with nvidia but I just wanted to get your opinion on the matter before I make any decisions. Cheers GAF.

If you buy a GTX 1070 today and a 1070Ti launches tomorrow, then you'll still have one the best consumer graphics cards on the market regardless.

Edit: Unrelated, but finally got the nerve to push for a 3.9Ghz overclock on my R5 1600 at 1.3v.

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You can see I started out at stock with a score of 999. Raised gradually over time, finally peaking at 3.9Ghz with a score of 1305. Overclocking is so damn rewarding. Didn't have any issues at least after 5 passes of Cinebench, so it's probably stable enough for games, but I'll run it through OCCT tomorrow for an hour or so (probably more like 30 minutes).
 
Can anyone shed some light on this ram issue I've been having? it's not frequent enough to be nuisance just yet but probably happens 2 out of 10 times when I boot up. I've got the Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200mhz ram on a Asus Pro Gaming Z170 mobo. I get the overclocking fail error but a restart without any tweaking in the bios fixes it.

So is it the heat, is my ram dying or basically my mobo is shit at overclocking the ram?
 

Bloodember

Member
Can anyone shed some light on this ram issue I've been having? it's not frequent enough to be nuisance just yet but probably happens 2 out of 10 times when I boot up. I've got the Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200mhz ram on a Asus Pro Gaming Z170 mobo. I get the overclocking fail error but a restart without any tweaking in the bios fixes it.

So is it the heat, is my ram dying or basically my mobo is shit at overclocking the ram?
Is your bios up to date?
 

Mrbob

Member
I'm going to have 4 case fans, but the mobo I have (Asrock Z270 Taichi) has the following fan headers:




Am I able to connect the 4th fan into the CPU Optional/Water Pump Fan header or will I need a splitter for one of the chassis headers?


Thanks in advance, guys. :)
Funny story, I blew up my msi b350 gaming pro carbon mobo trying to get the memory to it's rated 3200 speed. I believe the bios got messed up and clearing the cmos wouldn't work. As an aside, the msi mobos have the worst way to clear cmos I've seen. Need to cap two pins to clear but they don't give you a cap to use. Plus they put the clear cmos pins between the video card and cpu so you have to remove the video card to clear. Annoying. Glad I can still return to get money back. It was my fault the mobo went toast but still annoyed by how clearing the cmos was handled.

So I said screw it, ordered x370 taichi and installed it today. The water pump fan looks like a regular 4 pin fan connection anyway where you can also hook up a 3 pin fan to it. I hooked up my back case fan and it works. I believe the way it works too is if your case fan is non pwm it will run at 100 % but if it's pwm you can adjust the speed.

The taichi is great too. Was worried that my memory wouldn't go too high because it's not on the memory qvl list but it detected my 3200 memory and set it right away. Better than the msi mobo where my memory was listed to run at 3200 but couldn't. Plus the taichi has a clear cmos button on back by the other connections. In addition, the pins to clear the cmos is easily accessible if I have to do it on the mobo.


Gotta read a lot more before I can see where we go with recommended builds in the OP, but initially, I'm thinking that quite a few of the AMD builds will be taken off the list with Intel builds replacing them, depending on price/availability.

You've put all that work into the Ryzen builds. Be a shame to toss them. Have you thought about keeping those and just adding Intel builds. Then people can choose what they want.
 
You've put all that work into the Ryzen builds. Be a shame to toss them. Have you thought about keeping those and just adding Intel builds. Then people can choose what they want.

Might go that route. It looks like the Ryzen builds might still hold up based on being lower priced than the Intel equivalents (especially because there are no cheaper boards yet for Coffee Lake; looks like H370 might arrive early 2018 though). So, sloting Intel builds in there might be reasonable. I'll have to modify the write-ups so that they fairly disclose how each CPU compares to others in their price range. Oh, also, Coffee Lake availability is so bad right now... Can't recommend a build if no parts exist, lol.

Still going through benchmarks though. Gonna take a few days at least before I get through all the launch day festivitiea.
 
Okay. So I got the computer up and running, but I’m having issue on the Windows 10 installation. I have a USB plugged in and it rings me to the setup screen, however after entering the key it gives me the message “The computer started using the Windows installation media. Remove the installation media and restart your computer so that Windows starts normally. ...” removing the USB and restarting just does the whole process over again, and I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. :<
 

Mrbob

Member
Are you upgrading to windows 10 or doing a new install. I think you need to choose custom option to do a fresh install.
 

kuYuri

Member
Okay. So I got the computer up and running, but I’m having issue on the Windows 10 installation. I have a USB plugged in and it rings me to the setup screen, however after entering the key it gives me the message “The computer started using the Windows installation media. Remove the installation media and restart your computer so that Windows starts normally. ...” removing the USB and restarting just does the whole process over again, and I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. :<

Ahhhh/ that fixed it. Wow. I feel dumb. Well. Dumber.

Now that it's been sorted, post a pic of the finished build if you can!
 

Daffy Duck

Member
Gah, I've been annoyed with my 27" monitor because of a damn firefly stuck in it, and now OcUK have an Acer Predator XB252Qbmiprzx for £299!

I am tempted because my 27" BenQ doesn't have G-Sync whereas that does, but I'm not sure I would be able to take dropping from 27" to 25".
 

Lucid07

Member
I was wondering if someone could help me?
So say I was going to fully update pretty much everything in my PC apart from PSU and HDD, is there an easy way to just plug the HDDs in with the OS already installed, obviously removing drivers. Or is it just easier to reformat them and start a fresh?
 
I was wondering if someone could help me?
So say I was going to fully update pretty much everything in my PC apart from PSU and HDD, is there an easy way to just plug the HDDs in with the OS already installed, obviously removing drivers. Or is it just easier to reformat them and start a fresh?

I straight up just plugged my SSD (which was my OS/boot drive) into my newly built PC without uninstalling drivers, reformatting, or clean-installing Windows. Worked totally fine and has been for months. New mobo, CPU (swapped from Intel to AMD, even!), RAM, GPU, PSU, added an extra HDD, etc.

However, you absolutely SHOULD reformat. It's the best thing you can do and eliminates a ton of variables, so if you end up having any issues down the road, you won't have to worry about Windows/old drivers being one of the issues. I strongly advise you to not do what I did.
 
Definitely! Although I think the 8400 will really show its value once the other chipsets are out. Buying it now you're paying a premium for an overclockable chipset on a locked CPU.

Totally agree. This entire launch feels a bit rushed to be honest, seeing as how we not only have low stocks of the CPUs, but also only a single high-end chipset with no mid/low options available.
 
3,9Ghz at 1.3v on my R5 1600 seems completely stable with OCCT. Not gonna bother with Prime95, I pretty much only game on this system, so it'll never hit 100% utilization outside of stress tests anyway.

Power draw on the package peaked at 127w and reached 72 Celsius. Pretty happy with that considering I hate my CM 212 Turbo LED cooler with a passion. Still idles at 28C too, same as at stock. Considering a 4Ghz attempt, but I know it'll require a lot more voltage, and I don't think that's a worthy trade off for 100mhz extra clock speed.
 

Mrbob

Member
Yeah I would look at your ram speed instead of your OC at that point. 2933 to 3200 seems to be a nice sweet spot for Ryzen memory.

Intel 8th gen launch feels like it doesn't really happen until Q1 2018.
 

kaioshade

Member
So is there any word of the 8700k actually being available? Or is this another pitiful paper launch and there isnt hope of actually getting these things until mid 2018 or something else stupid?
 
So is there any word of the 8700k actually being available? Or is this another pitiful paper launch and there isnt hope of actually getting these things until mid 2018 or something else stupid?

No official statements. Seems like a paper launch though to try and take the wind out of Ryzen's sales (pun intended).
 

V1LÆM

Gold Member
So is there any word of the 8700k actually being available? Or is this another pitiful paper launch and there isnt hope of actually getting these things until mid 2018 or something else stupid?

dont know where you are but here in the UK you can pre order them and the date given is 1st November.
 
Yeah I would look at your ram speed instead of your OC at that point. 2933 to 3200 seems to be a nice sweet spot for Ryzen memory.

Intel 8th gen launch feels like it doesn't really happen until Q1 2018.

I'm at 2933mhz now, I've heard the sticks I have can do 3200mhz despite being rated for 3000mhz but again, something I'll look into down the line. Pretty happy with how everything runs right now. Had absolutely zero issues with anything so far.
 
Gonna take a closer look at my BIOS after midterm week, but so far I've had to resort to using Ryzen Master to OC my 1700 (Mobo is MSI b350M gaming pro) RAM I could get to 2933 in the bios no issue, but whenever I tried to OC the 1700 it'd boot up and show 1550 mHz. Pretty sure I disabled everything you're supposed to when manually overcooking, BIOS should be up to date, chipset drivers as well.

Ordered a new PSU and tried the RMA 1080 with that, everythings working so I'd wager we can chalk it up to my old PSU being too old (still very odd, the 390 never showed any issue and it draws far more wattage)
 
Gonna take a closer look at my BIOS after midterm week, but so far I've had to resort to using Ryzen Master to OC my 1700 (Mobo is MSI b350M gaming pro) RAM I could get to 2933 in the bios no issue, but whenever I tried to OC the 1700 it'd boot up and show 1550 mHz. Pretty sure I disabled everything you're supposed to when manually overcooking, BIOS should be up to date, chipset drivers as well.

Ordered a new PSU and tried the RMA 1080 with that, everythings working so I'd wager we can chalk it up to my old PSU being too old (still very odd, the 390 never showed any issue and it draws far more wattage)

I have the same CPU and motherboard as you. My RAM OC'd to 2933 MHz easily as well (XMP profile #2, then manually changed the DRAM Voltage to 1.35 V).

For the CPU, I was able to simply set the frequency to 3700 MHz and then the voltage to 1.25 V. Stable in Prime95 (Small FTT and Blend tests) for several hours each. Also, when you change the settings to your CPU in the BIOS, AMD Cool N' Quiet is auto-disabled; you can re-enable it without any issues.

I recommend starting at 1.25 V and a 3.5 GHz overclock and check if it boots. Also, try it without overclocking your RAM. If that looks good, work your way up to whatever clock speed you want by slowly increasing the frequency. If it doesn't boot/crashes/whatever, you'll need to add more voltage. I like to run a single pass through Cinebench as a quick-test when doing these adjustments, because things will often fail there pretty quickly, which is a nice and quick way to do a quick assessment of your overclock stability.
 

LordAlu

Member
So is there any word of the 8700k actually being available? Or is this another pitiful paper launch and there isnt hope of actually getting these things until mid 2018 or something else stupid?
You can buy them, just the stock levels are so low that you can only get them from "preferred retailers", so in the UK that pretty much means Overclockers or Scan and that's it. All the other retailers get jack. I'd assume it's a similar case in the US.

It will be a while before stock is decent enough for you to buy it at most other retailers. Board supply is plentiful though.
 

kaioshade

Member
dont know where you are but here in the UK you can pre order them and the date given is 1st November.

In the US, and only Newegg seemed to have any stock. Microcenter had some stock for like 500.

You can buy them, just the stock levels are so low that you can only get them from "preferred retailers", so in the UK that pretty much means Overclockers or Scan and that's it. All the other retailers get jack. I'd assume it's a similar case in the US.

It will be a while before stock is decent enough for you to buy it at most other retailers. Board supply is plentiful though.

Yea, i have a board, I will just have to play the waiting game. Just irritated about the whole thing.
 

Decider

Member
So is there any word of the 8700k actually being available? Or is this another pitiful paper launch and there isnt hope of actually getting these things until mid 2018 or something else stupid?

Indeed. Parts of my build started arriving today and I just want to get on with it.
 

GodofWine

Member
Nice to see the 1060 dropping in price. £240 for a dual fan 6Gb or £220 for a single fan 6Gb.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IA9FEOO/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IMZTEBK/

If they were that price a couple months ago, I would've happily settled for a 1060 over the 1080. Great value in either of those cards.

GPU's are starting to get back to within eyesight of what they SHOULD sell for. When I start seeing prebuilts with a r1700 and a 580 8gb for under $900, I start thinking that wholesale prices are dropping, and soon I might be able to actually build a new PC.
 
Ryzen 1700 down to $260 at Microcenter. 1700X for $270.

Doubt that's an official price drop, but damn. 8C/16T for <$290 including tax is insane. Still eligible for a $30 discount off of any compatible motherboard, too.
 
Ryzen 1700 down to $260 at Microcenter. 1700X for $270.

Doubt that's an official price drop, but damn. 8C/16T for <$290 including tax is insane. Still eligible for a $30 discount off of any compatible motherboard, too.

Shit like that makes me wish I lived in the US. UK prices are nowhere near that low, even on a good deal. The 1600 has dropped £20 since release though, down to about £180. Can't complain at that kinda value. Well I can kinda complain because if I waited a month longer, my full build would've cost about £50 less overall. Ah well.
 
I have the same CPU and motherboard as you. My RAM OC'd to 2933 MHz easily as well (XMP profile #2, then manually changed the DRAM Voltage to 1.35 V).

Thanks for the tips, will try out when I get a chance. I remember being able to get to 3.5/6 on auto voltage but when I tried manually setting voltage it went back to 1550MHz, hopefully that was on the old BIOS and was fixed, fingers crossed
 
Now that it's been sorted, post a pic of the finished build if you can!
Woo! I knocked the hell out after finishing it all up, gettin everything to work took an additional two hours lol. Ethernet was giving me issues, led was plugged in wrong, couldn’t figure out why my HDD wasn’t working- but we’re all good now! Here it is:
The lightning and the chroma Razer products feel a little tacky, but they’re my tacky. :p
 
Woo! I knocked the hell out after finishing it all up, gettin everything to work took an additional two hours lol. Ethernet was giving me issues, led was plugged in wrong, couldn’t figure out why my HDD wasn’t working- but we’re all good now! Here it is:

The lightning and the chroma Razer products feel a little tacky, but they’re my tacky. :p

Looks good, man. Now fill it with RGB strips and turn them to the brightest shade of purple you can without going blind.
 

Kaako

Felium Defensor
Ryzen 1700 down to $260 at Microcenter. 1700X for $270.

Doubt that's an official price drop, but damn. 8C/16T for <$290 including tax is insane. Still eligible for a $30 discount off of any compatible motherboard, too.
What a fantastic time to build. So many great and affordable CPU options now. I'm loving this actual competition!
Also had Microcenter rep tell me they'll be out of the i7 8700K for the next 2 weeks to a month, does this sound about right?
 

Envelope

sealed with a kiss
What a fantastic time to build. So many great and affordable CPU options now. I'm loving this actual competition!
Also had Microcenter rep tell me they'll be out of the i7 8700K for the next 2 weeks to a month, does this sound about right?

I wouldn't be surprised if they're out of them for even longer than that
 

Jeff6851

Member
So Battlefield 1 (low settings) keeps crashing and now Dark Souls 3 has crashed. Neither have been crashing to desktop or forcing a reboot. BF gets that stutter crash and DS froze then went to a red screen. Just recently started playing BF but DS didn't do this until now.

Specs:

RX 480 4 GB (stock speed)
i5 2500K (4.1 GHz) w/ Hyper 212 Evo
8 GB 1600 MHz RAM
600W PSU

All parts, except the GPU, were purchased in 2011. No problems like this until I started playing BF.
 
Looks good, man. Now fill it with RGB strips and turn them to the brightest shade of purple you can without going blind.
I actually have the strips running with color along the interior of the case lol, digging the purple tho- thanks for the help and recommendations! I appreciate it, PUBG runs leagues ahead of my little ThinkPad haha
 
So Battlefield 1 (low settings) keeps crashing and now Dark Souls 3 has crashed. Neither have been crashing to desktop or forcing a reboot. BF gets that stutter crash and DS froze then went to a red screen. Just recently started playing BF but DS didn't do this until now.

Specs:

RX 480 4 GB (stock speed)
i5 2500K (4.1 GHz) w/ Hyper 212 Evo
8 GB 1600 MHz RAM
600W PSU

All parts, except the GPU, were purchased in 2011. No problems like this until I started playing BF.
Possibly PSU issue or temp issues.
 

kuYuri

Member
As long as RAM prices continue to be shit, it's not the best time to build. But it's certainly a great time to buy Ryzen from Micro Center.

Woo! I knocked the hell out after finishing it all up, gettin everything to work took an additional two hours lol. Ethernet was giving me issues, led was plugged in wrong, couldn’t figure out why my HDD wasn’t working- but we’re all good now! Here it is:

The lightning and the chroma Razer products feel a little tacky, but they’re my tacky. :p

Good job. &#128077;

I have some RGB too (GPU, keyboard, monitor I think?) but most of my parts are from 2014 or before when RGB wasn't all the rage and I didn't feel like spending that much for it.
 
I actually have the strips running with color along the interior of the case lol, digging the purple tho- thanks for the help and recommendations! I appreciate it, PUBG runs leagues ahead of my little ThinkPad haha

Purple/pink lights always look good to me, a bit garish but in a good way. Really wanna get some decent RGB strips in my case but the red LEDs on my CPU cooler just clash with any other colours. If you get into Siege on that new PC, drop into the OT and find my uplay. Be glad to play sometime (I'd do PUBG but don't even own it haha).
 

zeemumu

Member
I cloned Windows onto my SSD so I could boot it from that, but the PC still boots Windows from the HDD so I can't format it, even after I put the SSD as option one on the BIOS.


If I disconnect the HDD it won't run at all, and if I put the Windows 10 USB in and try installing again it says it can't read the product key while it's loading setup.

Suggestions?
 

liezryou

Member
I cloned Windows onto my SSD so I could boot it from that, but the PC still boots Windows from the HDD so I can't format it, even after I put the SSD as option one on the BIOS.


If I disconnect the HDD it won't run at all, and if I put the Windows 10 USB in and try installing again it says it can't read the product key while it's loading setup.

Suggestions?

Try a fresh install on the SSD, it shouldn't take that long.

1) Make a fresh windows boot USB (try a different USB if one is giving you issues)
1) Wipe SSD
2) Disconnect HDD
3) Install windows on SSD while it is the only one connected.
 
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