Quick question which may make a difference on the case I choose: is it possible to do the initial Windows install from a DVD drive connected via USB?
4790K -> 8700K
16GB DDR3-1600 -> 32GB DDR4-3200
H100i AIO -> Cryorig H7
It's the most pointless upgrade I have done in a while, but a USD 480 killer deal for both the 8700K and the MSI Z370M Pro Gaming AC mobo is simply too irresistible to pass up. Couldn't fit my old H100i in my new mATX case(hated the cable clutter anyway), so I switched back to the boring but effective Cryorig H7.
Now to stop caring about desktop CPUs for like the next 5 years.
I've been seeing a lot of reviews from different gtx 1080's, what do you guys think of Zotac gtx 1080 mini?
One of the cheapest 1080's and its performance seems rather similar to other models.
I've been seeing a lot of reviews from different gtx 1080's, what do you guys think of Zotac gtx 1080 mini?
One of the cheapest 1080's and its performance seems rather similar to other models.
I wouldn't gimp cooling with the mini cards if you can fit the full size cards.
I have the Asus Strix 1080 in a Node 304 ITX case.
The zotac minis are very well built, althought they are small they are very solid. Definately better than reference,imo. Ive got 2 1070tis and definately recommend the minis if you want something easy to fit in your case. But yea definately dont expect the greatest overclocks.
How the hell did you fit a strix in there. The strix cooler is really ridiculous.
Complete upgrade from my 5-year old build of this:
CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 (added November 2016)
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey
to this:
CPU = Intel I7-8700k (OC'd to 4.7GHz)
CPU Cooler = Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm
RGB LED set-up: CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with 4 RGB LED Strips
2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x Corsair HD Series, HD140 RGB LED
Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING
Memory = 32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance RGB DDR4 3466 (PC4-27700)
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD
Storage = 2 x WD Black 6TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold
Case = Thermaltake View 71 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular SPCC E-ATX Gaming Full Tower
CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with Individually Addressable RGB LED Strips
2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x CORSAIR HD Series, HD140 RGB LED
I did it, and built a tiny god ^_^
Spoiler'd for bigness
Anyone ever had experience with Demcifilter.com dust filters? I am looking to buy some dust filters for my cooler master evo xb as it does not have front panel dust filter.
Complete upgrade from my 5-year old build of this:
CPU = Intel i5-3570K (OC'd to 4.1GHz)
CPU Cooler = Cooler Master 212 EVO
Motherboard = Asus P8Z77-V
Memory = 16GB of Ballistix Tactical Tracer LED RAM
Boot Drive = Samsung EVO 250 SSD (added since 2013)
Storage = 3 WD drives (2TB, 3TB, and 4TB)
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z
GPU = EVGA NVIDIA GTX 1070 (added November 2016)
Power Supply = Corsair HX 750 watt
Case = InWin GRone Grey
to this:
CPU = Intel I7-8700k (OC'd to 4.7GHz)
CPU Cooler = Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 Extreme Performance Water / Liquid CPU Cooler. 240mm
RGB LED set-up: CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with 4 RGB LED Strips
2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x Corsair HD Series, HD140 RGB LED
Motherboard = ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING
Memory = 32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance RGB DDR4 3466 (PC4-27700)
Boot Drive = Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD
Storage = 2 x WD Black 6TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s
Sound Card = Sound Blaster Z (kept from previous)
GPU= ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
Power Supply = Corsair RMx Series, RM850x, 850W, Fully Modular, 80+ Gold
Case = Thermaltake View 71 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular SPCC E-ATX Gaming Full Tower
CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with Individually Addressable RGB LED Strips
2 x Corsair HD Series, HD120 RGB LED, 120mm
3 x CORSAIR HD Series, HD140 RGB LED
I had originally planned on a 1060 for my build, but with GPU prices going through the roof I ended up pulling the trigger on this:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487244
Good deal for a 1080 (got it for $660)?
If you’re not planning on gaming then you’re probably better off saving the money and going with a 2200g even though the 2400g offers excellent improvements.Considering that I'm looking to build a pc that is going to be for homework and netflix/media, should I go with the Ryzen 2400g instead of the Ryzen 2200g? I'm a Bioinformatics major and in a couple of years I'm going to be working with large amounts of data and I don't want the CPU to be a bottleneck but I also can't spend too much. I have a laptop with a 1070 and 6700 in it so if I want to game, I can do it on that but I am looking to build a cheap PC so that I wouldn't have to go through the hassle of plugging and unplugging everything in all the time. Typing on my laptop isn't as enjoyable as having a mechanical keyboard is and I think having a PC with a large monitor would add more comfort to doing homework! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thank You,
ZBR
So I'm trying to build a PC around the Ryzen 5 2400G APU. I have all my parts selected in a list, but I need to ask: does Windows ever go down in price? Without buying Windows 10, my build is around $500. Windows 10 Home adds $120 to my cost. Is there any legal way to pay less?
Really? That's interesting. I was always under the impression one had to activate Windows in order to use it. You learn something new everyday. Thanks!You don't have to activate windows 10 and it all works but the customization of it. I would give that a go. I did that for my pc a month ago and it just says activate in the lower corner but it all works fine. Also you can remove that a few ways and I did by just joining their beta rings - I get updates more often but they never bug me.
Not a bad choice. Samsung is always excellent too.Thinking of upgrading my aging 60GB Vertex 2 SSD to a fancy M.2 NVME SSD. Any suggestions? Leaning toward the intel 600p 512GB (maybe 1tb). It'll be an boot drive but would be nice to store some frequently played games on it.
thoughts?
No idea where you came up with that last part as Samsungs have almost universally been considered the best. Although other makers have caught up in recent years.I concur, Intel is a good choice for SSD, mine is running smooth for a number of years now, no problems yet. I have the Samsung 960 evo and so far it's working great, so can recommend that as well. But I don't think they can beat Intel SSD in terms of their reliability track record.
I wouldn't say universally, but they're pretty good, yeah. That with Intel SSD comes from the early days of SSD, when they were showing up on top when it comes to reliability, while drives from crucial, ocz or toshiba would crap themselves after a year or two if you're lucky. I had two ocz drives and one crucial that died within warranty, with the replacement drives dying just after. Then I switched to intel after recommendation from a friend who deals with a lot of SSD, and it never failed. Now I'm getting to the point where my intel drive is getting simply too small, but it didn't have issues for more than 5 years that I have it.No idea where you came up with that last part as Samsungs have almost universally been considered the best.
At this moment in time, I think your best bet is to go with the 2400G and get some high speed RAM to go with it.Soooo...I want to build a PC. I've never done so before. I know that right now the GPU crisis is making that difficult, so I'm seriously considering building a PC using one of these AMD Ryzen 2400g APUs and 8GB of 3000MHz RAM spending roughly 500-600. That would leave me the option of snagging a moderately beefy GPU down the line when prices stabilize. However, I have about a million concerns.
Can this APU run games at 1080p 30? I'm not necessarily a stickler for higher frame rates, but I can't stand screen tearing. Basically, I'd like to play stuff like PUBG or Fortnite or Rust at 1080p with zero screen tearing. Maybe that's not a realistic expectation. Maybe 720p/30 on High settings?
Or
Should I ditch the APU entirely and go with an MSI GTX 1050 Ti (which I can find right now for about $183) and CPU (I haven't done enough research to know which one yet)? Is there any possible way I can build a machine that can run 1080p 30 on Mid to High with this $183 1050 Ti for around $500 to $600?
Sorry if I'm rambling. I'm very new at all of this.
At this moment in time, I think your best bet is to go with the 2400G and get some high speed RAM to go with it.
Save your money until the GPU market comes back down to earth and get a better one then.
As great as the 2200G/2400G are, and they really are great. You be better off performance-wise, getting a either prebuilt with a 1050Ti for that same price with a 1050Ti or a refurbished "office" PC with a i5/i7 and putting in a 1050 or 1050Ti in there.Soooo...I want to build a PC. I've never done so before. I know that right now the GPU crisis is making that difficult, so I'm seriously considering building a PC using one of these AMD Ryzen 2400g APUs and 8GB of 3000MHz RAM spending roughly 500-600. That would leave me the option of snagging a moderately beefy GPU down the line when prices stabilize. However, I have about a million concerns.
Can this APU run games at 1080p 30? I'm not necessarily a stickler for higher frame rates, but I can't stand screen tearing. Basically, I'd like to play stuff like PUBG or Fortnite or Rust at 1080p with zero screen tearing. Maybe that's not a realistic expectation. Maybe 720p/30 on High settings?
Or
Should I ditch the APU entirely and go with an MSI GTX 1050 Ti (which I can find right now for about $183) and CPU (I haven't done enough research to know which one yet)? Is there any possible way I can build a machine that can run 1080p 30 on Mid to High with this $183 1050 Ti for around $500 to $600?
Sorry if I'm rambling. I'm very new at all of this.
An APU is never going to have the performance of a dedicated graphics card, but this is the best ever and should allow you to do some gaming with quality on par to Xbox One original or even base PS4.What would the performance look like? I've seen a bunch of benchmark videos, but they always have vsync turned off. It drives me crazy, but I'm guessing it notably impacts performance?
Also, thanks for replying. I've been thinking about this all day. Basically, I want to gift it to myself for graduation, so I'm looking to purchase the parts in May.
If Z ZeroMaverick wants to build a PC, getting a pre-built is kinda defeating the purpose, no? This advise depends on your location, where I am currently living prebuilt PCs are laughably overpriced and you're still better off putting it together yourself.You be better off performance-wise, getting a either prebuilt with a 1050Ti for that same price with a 1050Ti or a refurbished "office" PC with a i5/i7 and putting in a 1050 or 1050Ti in there.
Most will likely need a BIOS update. It may be better to wait until next month for the X470 mobosI think I'm going to go the APU route. However, now my concern is the motherboard. Does anyone know if any motherboards support Ryzen 2400g out of the box?
With mining causing GPU prices to skyrocket prebuilt can often provide the best deal.If Z ZeroMaverick wants to build a PC, getting a pre-built is kinda defeating the purpose, no? This advise depends on your location, where I am currently living prebuilt PCs are laughably overpriced and you're still better off putting it together yourself.
Also, building PCs is just fun to do.
I just went to the website of the first local retail chain that came to my mind, looked up an entry level gaming pc with 1050 and 8gb ram, went to partpicker and could put together a machine with 1050ti and 16gb ram for the same price. To reiterate: this advice depends on where you are located, and you can still get good deals putting stuff together yourself.With mining causing GPU prices to skyrocket prebuilt can often provide the best deal.
I don’t consider a 1050 to be worthwhile to build a gaming PC around. That’s my opinion but if that’s the best you can do for a video card I’d argue that getting an X1X is a better buy for pure gaming.I just went to the website of the first local retail chain that came to my mind, looked up an entry level gaming pc with 1050 and 8gb ram, went to partpicker and could put together a machine with 1050ti and 16gb ram for the same price. To reiterate: this advice depends on where you are located, and you can still get good deals putting stuff together yourself.
A pre-build with 1070 is still more expensive than a selfmade with 1070.I don’t consider a 1050 to be worthwhile to build a gaming PC around. That’s my opinion but if that’s the best you can do for a video card I’d argue that getting an X1X is a better buy for pure gaming.
If Z ZeroMaverick wants to build a PC, getting a pre-built is kinda defeating the purpose, no? This advise depends on your location, where I am currently living prebuilt PCs are laughably overpriced and you're still better off putting it together yourself.
Also, building PCs is just fun to do.
I don’t consider a 1050 to be worthwhile to build a gaming PC around. That’s my opinion but if that’s the best you can do for a video card I’d argue that getting an X1X is a better buy for pure gaming.
I definitely had fun building it. Had a scare when I tried to power everything on for the first time and nothing happened! Turns out the APU wasn't seated properly. After taking everything apart and rebuilding it again (lol) I got it to power up successfully! It was such a great feeling. As I was afraid of, the BIOS on the motherboard I got aren't updated to support Raven Ridge, so now I'm waiting on either AMD support or ASRock support to email me back. Sucks that I'll probably have to wait another week or possibly more to progress to the next step, but at least it powers on and looks cool.
I'm hoping to pop a dGPU into this build sometime later this year. I don't know much about GPU prices or what they should cost, but under normal circumstances, how much should I be looking to pay for a GPU that'll perform better than a PS4 Pro?
Edit: Oh, and in regard to the X1X, I don't think I see the value of paying $500 for a machine whose games are also 100% available on PC.