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[Bloodember]

Tried that a few times, but using guest / offline, Settings > Tuning > Lightning tab is missing. The only option under Tuning > OC beta. I am not the only one. Plenty of people complain of missing options while in the offline mode on their official NZXT CAM forum.

Did you install the drivers?

Same here, but his story made it seem that it was something related to the activation of the key.
.

How would that work? Its just a key to activate windows.

 

[NEO0MJ]

How would that work? Its just a key to activate windows.

I don't know, I want to know why he decided to buy another key afterwards. Maybe he just bought another motherboard and was burned by PA?

 

[rtcn63]

So I apologize in advance - pretty sure there's a better thread to post this in, I know this isn't a troubleshooting thread, but I'm at the end of my rope and GAF has never let me down yet.

I built a PC in December and it ran perfectly. I got a new job and was working a lot so I didn't turn it on for the past two months or so. Now, when I turn it on I hear the fans and the HDD start up and the silly lights on my keyboard turn on, but I can't get it to display on either of my monitors.

Once, it worked but then froze at my desktop. I've tried reseating my RAM and swapping the CMOS battery (although that seems like a long shot given that the system was only built in December).

I feel like this has to be a stupidly simple issue and I figured someone here might have had a similar experience. Help would be great.

I don't think specs are necessarily relevant but I can supply them if need be.

Sorry - I know this is kind of an awkward spot to post this but a lot of people in here know their shit so I figured it couldn't hurt.

Cheers.

Damage from an electrical surge or the like? Did you turn off the power supply while it sat those few months?

 

[Rex_DX]

Shit - no I did not. Didn't even occur to me.

However it's been plugged into a pretty rugged surge protector along with two monitors and a number of peripherals that all work normally.

Is the power supply really that delicate?

 

[rtcn63]

Shit - no I did not. Didn't even occur to me.

However it's been plugged into a pretty rugged surge protector along with two monitors and a number of peripherals that all work normally.

Is the power supply really that delicate?

Surge protector or uninterruptible power supply (UPS)? Because if it's not at least a UPS, all bets are off. Blackouts, brief power drops, and surges can be murder. Not to say those are responsible for what's going on. I have had PC's and other electronics damaged because of them though.

EDIT: In the end, it could just be a damaged power supply or videocard. Have you tried running the monitor on the CPU's integrated graphics (if it has it)? Or attempted the paper clip test to test the power supply?

 

[Rex_DX]

I haven't done the paper clip test because my keyboard mouse fans and HDD power on as normal - isn't that test purely designed to diagnose a bricked psu?

I could be wrong.

 

[NEO0MJ]

This talk had me wondering (and sorry if this sounds silly), but are there any ways to like, install a battery or something to a PC in case the cable was accidentally disconnected or power outages? I'm so used to laptops now so going back to PC will be strange.

 

[Branson]

Since handing over my 2500k and 980 system over to my GF because her PC broke and she's needing her WoW fix, I'm finally ready to get a new pc.

First question: How's the CPU market right now? Is an i7 7700k one of the better cpus right now or is something coming out soon I should be aware of? I know something is always around the corner but if it's a month or two off I don't want to get something more out of date.

 

[rtcn63]

This talk had me wondering (and sorry if this sounds silly), but are there any ways to like, install a battery or something to a PC in case the cable was accidentally disconnected or power outages? I'm so used to laptops now so going back to PC will be strange.

Plug your PC into an uninterruptible power supply, which has a battery to keep it powered during outages (well, mostly to give you enough time to shut the PC off safely)?

Since handing over my 2500k and 980 system over to my GF because her PC broke and she's needing her WoW fix, I'm finally ready to get a new pc.

First question: How's the CPU market right now? Is an i7 7700k one of the better cpus right now or is something coming out soon I should be aware of? I know something is always around the corner but if it's a month or two off I don't want to get something more out of date.

For pure gaming, 7700K until Intel drops its next round of CPU's.

 

[Rex_DX]

Looking around the web, there's an awful lot of
people claiming that they have my problem and fixed it by unplugging the computer and holding down power for a minute then turning it back on.

Any truth to this? What's the logic? It sounds too easy.

 

[dcx4610]

The 4790k is still extremely potent. What frequency do you have it at?

What resolution and refresh rate is your monitor? Ignore benchmarks--are you actually lacking performance in some games, and if so, which ones?

Before knowing the above, if I were you I wouldn't bother with Kaby. If you really wanna upgrade (which I think you probably don't need to do) I would wait for the next hyperthreaded Intel 6-core.

1440p and 165hz. Thanks for the reply.

I'm definitely finding it harder to hit higher frame rates after going 1440 in some games like Watch Dogs 2.

I just had the upgrade itch. I'll wait for the 6 cores. Are they still planned for this year or 2018?

 

[Branson]

Plug your PC into an uninterruptible power supply, which has a battery to keep it powered during outages (well, mostly to give you enough time to shut the PC off safely)?



For pure gaming, 7700K until Intel drops its next round of CPU's.

Any rumors on when that is?

 

[rtcn63]

1440p and 165hz. Thanks for the reply.

I'm definitely finding it harder to hit higher frame rates after going 1440 in some games like Watch Dogs 2.

I just had the upgrade itch. I'll wait for the 6 cores. Are they still planned for this year or 2018?

Watch Dogs 2 is just one of the most demanding CPU games this gen. Nothing you can really do but lower settings etc.

 

[Darkstorne]

Since handing over my 2500k and 980 system over to my GF because her PC broke and she's needing her WoW fix, I'm finally ready to get a new pc.

First question: How's the CPU market right now? Is an i7 7700k one of the better cpus right now or is something coming out soon I should be aware of? I know something is always around the corner but if it's a month or two off I don't want to get something more out of date.

7700 is great, but Ryzen is highly competitive at around half the price. Ryzen also finally seems to be kicking Intel into embracing 6+ cores from the next gen so it feels like a decent step forward is finally happening in the CPU market for the first time since the 2500/2600 days. But you certainly can't go wrong with a current gen Intel or Ryzen. CPU bottlenecks don't really exist in gaming outside of extreme circumstances.

Looking around the web, there's an awful lot of
people claiming that they have my problem and fixed it by unplugging the computer and holding down power for a minute then turning it back on.

Any truth to this? What's the logic? It sounds too easy.

Holding down the power button when it's unplugged should 'discharge' the computer. It's something often recommended before you clean your PC.

 

[Rex_DX]

Figured it was something like that. I tried it but it didn't do fuckall for me.

I'll continue to troubleshoot but thank you to all who replied (and damn fast too). There's good people in this thread.

 

[Rex_DX]

So I'm being cautiously optimistic because I don't want to jinx anything, but it appears my problem was fixed by reseating my 16gig ram stick for a second time. I noticed the mobo debug light was on suddenly and that was the ram was the only of thing I've messed with recently.

Like an idiot, when I went to reseat it the first time it must have been insecure.

After stressing about power supply and gpu it appears to be a simple ram issue. My monitors and display never even played a part, I assume the ram wasn't allowing the computer to fully boot which is why I had no visuals.

I'm sure no one gives a shit but if this little exchange helps anyone troubleshoot I'll be happy.

 

[Darkstorne]

So I'm being cautiously optimistic because I don't want to jinx anything, but it appears my problem was fixed by reseating my 16gig ram stick for a second time. I noticed the mobo debug light was on suddenly and that was the ram was the only of thing I've messed with recently.

Like an idiot, when I went to reseat it the first time it must have been insecure.

After stressing about power supply and gpu it appears to be a simple ram issue. My monitors and display never even played a part, I assume the ram wasn't allowing the computer to fully boot which is why I had no visuals.

I'm sure no one gives a shit but if this little exchange helps anyone troubleshoot I'll be happy.

Glad you figured it out =)

 

[Weevilone]

I've been pissing about with Intel Optane for giggles this week. So far I can't get it working. My system qualifies, BIOS is setup, software is installed.. I wound up deleting my recovery partition because Optane needs a small amount of space just after your main boot partition, and mine wouldn't shrink.

Still, the stick is installed but the Intel software says it's not. It simply can't find it. It's definitely there and can be formatted for use as a tiny drive, but not for the intended purpose.

I've had a ticket open and Intel has been lab testing solutions but so far nothing works. I'll be chucking it in the garbage returning it to Newegg soon.

 

[blue_phazon]

Hello everyone, I was looking for recommendations on making this build a little cheaper. This is going to be my first PC, so I'm sorry if I made some awful choices. I'm in Canada, and gave myself a budget of $2000 CAD. Here's what I came up with:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/cNrj9W

I value aesthetics a lot, and was going for a black/white theme. But I still want a PC powerful enough to run the latest AAA games at 1080p/60fps minimum. I have a 1080p/60hz monitor, and don't plan on upgrading for the next 3-5 years.

I don't think I'm willing to change the CPU cooler, or case, because they look way too cool (heh). The RAM and GPU are pretty big price offenders, and I'm hoping there's cheaper options. A cheaper, white graphics card would be the most ideal.

 

[kmfdmpig]

Does this build seem reasonable? I have two Samsung 850 Evo's and a 3TB mechanical drive that I'll move over from a different system. I'd like to use the system for several years and want to dabble in overclocking. The use will be a mix of office, internet, and gaming.

Any suggested changes/improvements are very welcome, although I don't want to spend much more than what's listed.

Component Selection Price
CPU
Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor $329.75

CPU Cooler
Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $104.98

Motherboard
ASRock - Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming K6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $147.98

Memory
G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $110.99

Video Card
EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card $709.99

Case
NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $99.99

Power Supply
EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $99.89

Total: $1603.57

 

[ChoklitReign]

Most SSD manufacturers have simple tools for cloning an existing boot/os drive to a new ssd. I used the samsung magician now twice and it worked perfectly. No idea if there is one for your brand though, but there are some free and some paid tools able to do the same like arconis.
You can switch mainboards/cpus on windows 10 without the need to reinstall it. I'm not sure you can do the same on win7. Anyway, a fresh install is always preferable. New architecture, new and different drivers, new registry entries, a lot of stuff can go wrong.
BTW you can reuse your old windows 7 key as often as you want to. It's yours forever, no need to buy a new one. If you can't find your key anymore: There are some tools able to check for you win7 keys.

I can't/don't want to clone the SSD and OS (and it is W10), I want to reset it for new hardware and quickly restore my files. I just don't know how to create a fresh install with my original installation when I change the hardware. Like, is there a feature to wipe Windows clean, shut it down, do the surgery, and boot it up with new drivers? I know how to reuse the key, I tied the activation to my account. Whether or not I'm logged in, how would Windows boot after the hardware change, what exactly would it try to do?

 

[Branson]

7700 is great, but Ryzen is highly competitive at around half the price. Ryzen also finally seems to be kicking Intel into embracing 6+ cores from the next gen so it feels like a decent step forward is finally happening in the CPU market for the first time since the 2500/2600 days. But you certainly can't go wrong with a current gen Intel or Ryzen. CPU bottlenecks don't really exist in gaming outside of extreme circumstances.


Holding down the power button when it's unplugged should 'discharge' the computer. It's something often recommended before you clean your PC.

Hmm ok. Cool. Well that gives me a little bit to think about. It did seem my 2500k would bottleneck on open world games and something like Hitman with a lot of AI. And of course on VR.

 

[rtcn63]

Hmm ok. Cool. Well that gives me a little bit to think about. It did seem my 2500k would bottleneck on open world games and something like Hitman with a lot of AI. And of course on VR.

Get the 7700k if you need something now, it's been going on sale for $300 every other day. Benchmarks show that the i7K processors tend to hold out over the long-term, something to note if you plan on keeping most of the rig for the next five years or more. (A 2500K is close to a modern i5 in performance)

Also- overclocking the 7700K isn't necessary at the moment for gaming. Even at ~5GHZ, you're looking at like a 0-4fps increase in CPU-demanding games. Not worth the extra heat (and the 7700K can run very hot).

 

[MrFlooD]

Hello everyone, I was looking for recommendations on making this build a little cheaper. This is going to be my first PC, so I'm sorry if I made some awful choices. I'm in Canada, and gave myself a budget of $2000 CAD. Here's what I came up with:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/cNrj9W

I value aesthetics a lot, and was going for a black/white theme. But I still want a PC powerful enough to run the latest AAA games at 1080p/60fps minimum. I have a 1080p/60hz monitor, and don't plan on upgrading for the next 3-5 years.

I don't think I'm willing to change the CPU cooler, or case, because they look way too cool (heh). The RAM and GPU are pretty big price offenders, and I'm hoping there's cheaper options. A cheaper, white graphics card would be the most ideal.

Look into the Asus 1070 Dual. Should save around $50 on the build and white.

Also, I since you are only looking for 60/1080p, you might want to look at the asus 480/580 dual or asus 1060 dual. Should save you a bunch.

 

[blue_phazon]

Look into the Asus 1070 Dual. Should save around $50 on the build and white.

Also, I since you are only looking for 60/1080p, you might want to look at the asus 480/580 dual or asus 1060 dual. Should save you a bunch.

Oh man that Asus DUAL is perfect!

 

[dcx4610]

Hello everyone, I was looking for recommendations on making this build a little cheaper. This is going to be my first PC, so I'm sorry if I made some awful choices. I'm in Canada, and gave myself a budget of $2000 CAD. Here's what I came up with:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/cNrj9W

I value aesthetics a lot, and was going for a black/white theme. But I still want a PC powerful enough to run the latest AAA games at 1080p/60fps minimum. I have a 1080p/60hz monitor, and don't plan on upgrading for the next 3-5 years.

I don't think I'm willing to change the CPU cooler, or case, because they look way too cool (heh). The RAM and GPU are pretty big price offenders, and I'm hoping there's cheaper options. A cheaper, white graphics card would be the most ideal.

You'll easily hit 1080/60fps+ on Ultra with those specs. I'd probably consider a slightly higher wattage power supply for wiggle run. 550 should be fine I'd probably 650-800 just for peace of mind.

 

[Dynomutt]

Is this an ok deal to built nettop? Browsing, organizing music, watching movies on Netflix or MKV's. Was considering a VESA mount to make it a clean setup. Maybe even a Hackintosh!?!?!

ASRock Deskmini

Intel Core i7 / i5 / i3 / Pentium (LGA1151) Intel Socket LGA1151
Intel H110
2 x 260Pin SO-DIMM DDR4 2133
Intel HD Graphics
DeskMini barebone do come with Wifi build in

Currently $120 on Newegg.

 

[blue_phazon]

You'll easily hit 1080/60fps+ on Ultra with those specs. I'd probably consider a slightly higher wattage power supply for wiggle run. 550 should be fine I'd probably 650-800 just for peace of mind.

Yeah the Power supply was probably the most confusing part. PCPartPicker says the build is close to 400W, so I thought 550 would be fine

 

[J_Viper]

What visual settings are you guys using on the Nvidia Control Panel?

I had to wipe my PC, so my custom settings were erased and I can't recall what settings I used.

I have a 1440p GSync Monitor if that makes a difference

 

[rtcn63]

Yeah the Power supply was probably the most confusing part. PCPartPicker says the build is close to 400W, so I thought 550 would be fine

Not sure about the 1600, but something like a 7700K + 1080ti draws ~400w on (gaming) load.

 

[jim2point0]

What visual settings are you guys using on the Nvidia Control Panel?

I had to wipe my PC, so my custom settings were erased and I can't recall what settings I used.

I don't touch the Nvidia Control Panel anymore these days. I only dip in there if people recommend a certain setting for a specific game. Last time I messed with that was to tweak things a bit for Breath of the Wild on Cemu

 

[kmfdmpig]

I finally figured out how to share PCpartpicker lists with decent formatting.
Does this look like a reasonable build? Any recommended changes?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.75 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: *Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($104.98 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: *ASRock - Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming K6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($147.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: *G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($110.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: *EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card ($709.99 @ Amazon)
Case: *NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: *EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1603.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-24 23:06 EDT-0400

 

[Drilbit777]

Whats a decent PC for about $1000?

 

[Big Green Anus]

I want to get the Hyper 212 Evo cpu cooler for my HP Dx2400 Micro Tower, but I'm not sure of it would fit in my case. If it can't, any good alternatives at similar price range?

 

[BeardyChan]

I can't decide what I should do about this build. My components from an older system are unreliable so I need to build a second machine for tasks. I'm not planning on doing any VM's but it will be encoding a lot of content. I'm using the green drives as in and out drives since they were sitting around unused. Also noise is a concern for me since this will be in the bedroom. I could use some suggestions for additional fans or replacement fans.
This is what I'm looking at so far.

Ryzen Build

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1800X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor ($459.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($65.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AX370-Gaming K5 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS29 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Case Fan: NZXT - Aer RGB120 (3-pack) 61.4 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $966.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-25 01:34 EDT-0400

Intel build

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler ($65.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming K5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($174.33 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS29 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $0.00)
Case Fan: NZXT - Aer RGB120 (3-pack) 61.4 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $741.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-25 01:35 EDT-0400

 

[Kadey]

Whats a decent PC for about $1000?

Depends on what you want/need it for.

 

[NEO0MJ]

Plug your PC into an uninterruptible power supply, which has a battery to keep it powered during outages (well, mostly to give you enough time to shut the PC off safely)?

That's what I'm looking for. Will probably visit the hardware store and see what they have.

I finally figured out how to share PCpartpicker lists with decent formatting.
Does this look like a reasonable build? Any recommended changes?

Looks good. Only thing I would change is the ram. They seem out of place with the other high end parts. Why not go for 3200 or maybe even 3600?

Whats a decent PC for about $1000?

That depends. Which size would you prefer? And do you already have a monitor, keyboard, and mouse? Are you primarily using it for gaming or other heavy process tasks?

I want to get the Hyper 212 Evo cpu cooler for my HP Dx2400 Micro Tower, but I'm not sure of it would fit in my case. If it can't, any good alternatives at similar price range?

What CPU and motherboard are you using? That will make it easier to give you suggestions.

 

[Big Green Anus]

That's what I'm looking for. Will probably visit the hardware store and see what they have.



Looks good. Only thing I would change is the ram. They seem out of place with the other high end parts. Why not go for 3200 or maybe even 3600?



That depends. Which size would you prefer? And do you already have a monitor, keyboard, and mouse? Are you primarily using it for gaming or other heavy process tasks?



What CPU and motherboard are you using? That will make it easier to give you suggestions.

Core 2 Quad Q6700 and the stock Asus Micro ATX that came with unit.

 

[Drilbit777]

That's what I'm looking for. Will probably visit the hardware store and see what they have.



Looks good. Only thing I would change is the ram. They seem out of place with the other high end parts. Why not go for 3200 or maybe even 3600?



That depends. Which size would you prefer? And do you already have a monitor, keyboard, and mouse? Are you primarily using it for gaming or other heavy process tasks?



What CPU and motherboard are you using? That will make it easier to give you suggestions.

WellI would prefer a PC that can give me high end gaming and at least pull off 1080p/60fps. I already have a mouse and a monitor i'm watching on amazon. Just need a keyboard.

 

[NEO0MJ]

Core 2 Quad Q6700 and the stock Asus Micro ATX that came with unit.

Seems like these are some of your best options. I doubt that any of them won't fit.

be quiet! SHADOW ROCK LP
Thermaltake Frio Silent 12
Cooler Master GeminII M4

WellI would prefer a PC that can give me high end gaming and at least pull off 1080p/60fps. I already have a mouse and a monitor i'm watching on amazon. Just need a keyboard.

I managed to scour this. Even when including the keyboard it came under $1k, but that's including mail in rebates. Without them it comes out as $1040 or so. Only thing missing is getting a W10 key which can be found for cheap.

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7h3TxY
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7h3TxY/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z270M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($73.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card ($244.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($52.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($37.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Corsair - Vengeance K65 Compact Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Wired Gaming Keyboard ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $984.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-25 04:40 EDT-0400

 

[Cosmonaut X]

Lots of coffee and looking over the suggestions...

Not sure how this revision looks - I'm missing a case and keyboard/mouse, but otherwise I've pushed my budget a bit to try and get something reasonably grunty and hopefully balanced for photo-editing/design and gaming/general use. I've added a pair of case fans, changed the RAM, added a 1TB drive and a monitor, tweaked the CPU and mobo etc. - any input would be great.

I really like the P183 case I currently use, but the P183 V3 is a bit pricier than I'm looking to go to. Ideally I'd like a mid ATX case with good cable/noise management, and set up to take all the stuff I've got to cram in there. Any suggestions for a decent one under £100?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (£275.94 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard (£101.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£118.51 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk - X400 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£116.96 @ BT Shop)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£41.88 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 580 8GB ARMOR OC Video Card (£229.99 @ CCL Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair - CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.99 @ Ebuyer)
Optical Drive: LG - UH12NS40 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer (£49.04 @ CCL Computers)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (£16.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (£16.80 @ Kustom PCs)
Monitor: BenQ - RL2460HT 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor (£160.24 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1198.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-25 10:32 BST+0100

 

[Zojirushi]

Quick UWP question: I know RTSS doesn't work with it but what about driver VSynch?

I got it enabled in Nvidia Control Panel but when I disable ingame Vsynch (Gears 4) I'm getting mad tearing.

It's not that big a deal because Gears seems like an awesome port so ingame Vsynch and fps limiter seem to be working well for a change but I'm still curious.

 

[J_Viper]

Okay so my PC has been brought back to life through reinstalling Windows.

I downloaded Witcher 3, the most demanding game I own, ran it at 1440p on a mix of Ultra and High settings, and it stayed north of 60 FPS without any issues.

However, when I launch Prey on max settings, which looks like a 360 game compared to TW3, it still locks up.

I don't understand what's going on here. When I choose High settings, it seems to be okay, but there's no reason why my PC should be having trouble with that game.

Also, I'm having trouble running MEA. I can only manage a solid frame-rate if I use the resolution scaler to upscale to 1440p from 1080p. No other modern game requires this to run well.

If I run it at native res, the frame-rate stays put around 50 fps. With the scaler though, I get upwards of 80 fps.

Is this a hardware issue, or is MEA poorly optimized?

I'm rolling with a 1070/i5-6600k and 16 GB RAM

I don't touch the Nvidia Control Panel anymore these days. I only dip in there if people recommend a certain setting for a specific game. Last time I messed with that was to tweak things a bit for Breath of the Wild on Cemu

Haha

The default settings for me are completely washed out, but I found some settings online that look alright. I just hope it doesn't blow my computer up, again.

 

[EatChildren]

Did Nvidia fuck up something with their most recent drivers? Hotfix included, I'm getting stuttering in Battlefield 1 that never used to be there.

 

[ISee]

Quick UWP question: I know RTSS doesn't work with it but what about driver VSynch?

I got it enabled in Nvidia Control Panel but when I disable ingame Vsynch (Gears 4) I'm getting mad tearing.

It's not that big a deal because Gears seems like an awesome port so ingame Vsynch and fps limiter seem to be working well for a change but I'm still curious.

The newest RTSS beta has UWP support.
There was an UWP update some time ago enabling Nvidia control panel features if I remember correctly.

I can't/don't want to clone the SSD and OS (and it is W10), I want to reset it for new hardware and quickly restore my files. I just don't know how to create a fresh install with my original installation when I change the hardware. Like, is there a feature to wipe Windows clean, shut it down, do the surgery, and boot it up with new drivers? I know how to reuse the key, I tied the activation to my account. Whether or not I'm logged in, how would Windows boot after the hardware change, what exactly would it try to do?

Methode A
1.) Back Up your important files.
2.) Use the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool (download link) to create a installation media. (I prefer a USB 3.0 device, makes installation faster).
3.) Change the hardware
4.) Boot into the USB device (from your UEFI) and reinstall windows 10. If I am not mistaken you can even tell windows to hold on to your old data.
5.) Boot into windows 10 and install all motherboard drivers (sound, lan, usb etc.)
6.) Recover your important files, reinstall software etc.

Methode B
1.) Back Up your important files.
2.) Change your hardware
3.) Start your PC as normal. Windows 10 should recognize the new MB and CPU and automatically install standardized drivers for them. This should work, but there are no guarantees. You may need to reinstall some drivers via your MB DVD.
4.) You may need to reactivate windows 10 after changing the mb and cpu. (quickly done, just follow the onscreen instructions and click on the "I changed my hardware" option.
5.) Old drivers and registry settings will be deactivated. Still, problems and conflicts between old and new drivers may occur.

 

[Zojirushi]

The newest RTSS beta has UWP support.
There was an UWP update some time ago enabling Nvidia control panel features if I remember correctly.

Oh shit, will try that beta, thanks.

 

[Azzurri]

Anyone coming from 980's not Ti in SLI to 1 1080ti? How's the performance?

THinking about buying the eVGA 1080ti FTW3

 

[AngmarsKing701]

Didn't see a response on my monitor question from the last page or so.

I have an i7-6700, GTX 1070. Looking for G-SYNC, 1440p as a monitor upgrade.

Options include:
- 27" Dell that is a TN monitor
- 27" Acer Predator that is an IPS monitor
- various 34/35" curved monitors

Is curved worth it? What makes IPS better than TN?

 

[Erheller]

Dunno if this has been answered before, but why are RX 480's so expensive right now? It's the last part I need for a build and I can't find one under $250.

 

[Bloodember]

Dunno if this has been answered before, but why are RX 480's so expensive right now? It's the last part I need for a build and I can't find one under $250.

Probably because they're getting rare, go with the new RX 580.