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"I Need a New PC!" 2023. 6-24 Cores, Frame Generation, Enhanced Ray Tracing & Direct Storage.

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Soodanim

Member
Alright, ive finally unboxed my steam controller today and its way too confusing and difficult to use.

This might sound a little trivial, but i really need some help with picking a controller for windows 10.
I was checking out the "xbox series controller" because it apparently has the best compatibility, but it looks like it uses batteries or something, or maybe it doesnt, i wasnt able to find a concrete answer and this is uncharted territory for me.

My only requirement is a controller which can be exclusively powered and charged through usb-c or regular micro/usb, do they exist or do they all need some stations/batteries?

These are the prices:
nintendo switch pro controller (1500)
dual sense (1200)
dual shock (1430)
xbox series controller (1400)

Also, any recommendations for ~150eur ATX cases? Aiming for airflow and low noise with good cable management.
SC definitely takes some getting used to and won't be ideal for every game, but if you can find or create a config that works for you it will be fantastic. Maybe watch some RambleTan YouTube videos, he has many ranging from new owner guides to very complex configs that I couldn't dream of making. edit: link: https://www.youtube.com/@RambleCan

I recently went back to my SC after about a year off because RE8's 4 configs are all dogshit. After a bit of tweaking to a community config I've made one that works really well for me. Sprint on touchpad outer rim and quick turn on click, reload on R1 and heal on long press R1, left grip is a modifier that makes touching the right pad my weapon quick select, and gyro activates on touching either L2 or the right pad. Once you get something you like, it can feel surprisingly comfortable and relaxing to play with.

I do need to mod mine though, I've heard electrical tape is good for dampening the ridiculous clunks that the touchpads make and something can be done about the shoulder buttons.

I do hope they make a second SC that implements some of the improvements I hear the SteamDeck has, because that would be able to capitalise on all of the community configs and really do well. It needs less clicky and clunky buttons, and the back grips just aren't comfortably shaped.



As for a standard controller, I adore my DS4. It works really well on PC, especially with Steam's new update that helps support PS controllers even more. I used to go wireless with it, but something about some software updates fucked it so I gave up and went back to wired. Absolutely no problems there, far less to deal with anyway.

The touchpad gives you that extra set of inputs that can range from a simple mouse touchpad with LMB/RMB clicks, to simple button inputs (like fast forward and rewind for RetroArch), to more complicated inputs like what I use for Skyrim and Witcher 2, which is 4 way swipes as well as button presses. It gives you a lot more to play with and customise should you want it.

For making it work, you can either let Steam do the work (I recommend changing the global/desktop config to being a standard controller for compatibility's sake), but it won't be perfect and you may need to use GlosSI to add SteamInput compatible layer shortcuts to Steam. I did it for RetroArch for example, because that got a bit funny with me even when using the Steam store version.

You can also go with DS4Windows, which works very well and also has per-game profiles should you want them, but isn't quite as elegantly designed. It also isn't quite as feature-rich when it comes to customising inputs, but if you want a basic "pretend you're a 360 controller and be done with it" software then it will work wonders for you.



If you do end up using GlosSI for anything (not just DS4, could be SC or anything), you might want to look at https://www.steamgriddb.com/. It can directly link into Steam and load in custom artwork, both for library games and non-Steam shortcuts. Also helps for those very ugly arts that some publishers use, or to make a franchise be consistent. This profile has the HL art I use: https://www.steamgriddb.com/profile/76561198029009881/grids
 
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StereoVsn

Gold Member
If you have a Microcenter near you, you can pick out the parts and they will build it. Can even do custom cooling loops, lol.

However, I would wait till new NVidia cards are out unless it’s a must or a great deal. 4070 Super and 4070Ti Super will be much better cards vs current equivalent and 4080 Super should be cheaper.

All 4090s are going to China right now and prices are crap so if you are going for that it’s not likely to change and no Super or Titan anyways.
 

HeisenbergFX4

Gold Member
Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.
If you are anything like me after making an order even though you know its not coming for days I am checking on if its been shipped and just hate the waiting

Wait Goodbye GIF by Silicon Valley
 

nkarafo

Member
I want to upgrade to a 7800X3D until i saw the idle consumption... Seems like it's at least 3 times higher then what intel CPUs have, including my current one.

I use my PC 12/24 and most of that time it's idle or close to it. I don't feel comfortable knowing all this time the CPU will suck so much power.

Guess i'll wait for the next intel CPUs and pray they are good.
 

winjer

Gold Member
I want to upgrade to a 7800X3D until i saw the idle consumption... Seems like it's at least 3 times higher then what intel CPUs have, including my current one.

I use my PC 12/24 and most of that time it's idle or close to it. I don't feel comfortable knowing all this time the CPU will suck so much power.

Guess i'll wait for the next intel CPUs and pray they are good.

Where did you see such a thing?
Professional reviewers show very similar power usage at idle.


untitled-1.png
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I want to upgrade to a 7800X3D until i saw the idle consumption... Seems like it's at least 3 times higher then what intel CPUs have, including my current one.

I use my PC 12/24 and most of that time it's idle or close to it. I don't feel comfortable knowing all this time the CPU will suck so much power.

Guess i'll wait for the next intel CPUs and pray they are good.
Where did you get this info? Literally no review says this.
 
D

Deleted member 1159

Unconfirmed Member
I’ve made this joke a lot but living in a cold climate, I really give zero fucks about power consumption because it actually just becomes comfort heat for me. When I’m playing cyberpunk and path tracing all them rays, I’m cozy AF in my downstairs office
 
Is that a reference to something?
the mom's boyfriend's thing is just an old joke, and vpn alludes to using non-legal channels, aka pirating.

pirating windows has a long interesting history, and microsoft doesnt care that much because they want as many people using windows as possible, which allows them to make more money in the long run.

you can still download win10 from microsoft if you already have a license.

otherwise you need to find a place that still sells the win10 install disc, or an online place that sells valid licenses.
both of those methods will have lots of counterfeits though, so be careful.

purchase with a credit card and if the product is counterfeit, dispute the charge with your credit card company. they'll almost always side with you.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Not exactly PC building related, but a KILLER good option if you want a full Atmos/DTS-X system passthrough,

I was using an eARC soundbar with Atmos and DTS-X support. Unfortunately I got so sick and tired of the noticeable lag on my Xbox Series X (running it through the soundbar was NOT an option since I would have lose VRR and 4K120) so I decided to go back to a dedicated 5.1.2 setup.

I bought these 5.1.2. speakers for over half off, which will do just fine for my apartment:

And this receiver for $299:

Now, I will run my PS5 and XSX through the receiver. Supposedly there is no audio delay on the XSX using Atmos when passed directly through the receiver. I also have the option to use DTS-X.
 
What's the deal with HDR and auto-HDR in Windows 11? I have an OLED HDR monitor and games look great in HDR but the desktop for general non-gaming use like browsing etc. looks like ass.

I can tell when I'm in an HDR game and I minimize it, the desktop stays in HDR because the colors are vivid and pop. As soon as I exit my HDR game, I can tell the desktop disables HDR as the colors look bland again.

Is there a bug with Windows 11 that prevents HDR from turning on in the desktop?

edit: I tried turning the Windows HDR setting to off and damn, the colors and brightness are so much better compared to on. Wtf. It looks similar to when I minimize an HDR game.

You would think after dropping a grand on an OLED monitor, Windows would look better with HDR on but it's the opposite.

At least games clearly look better with it on.
 
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peish

Member
What's the deal with HDR and auto-HDR in Windows 11? I have an OLED HDR monitor and games look great in HDR but the desktop for general non-gaming use like browsing etc. looks like ass.

I can tell when I'm in an HDR game and I minimize it, the desktop stays in HDR because the colors are vivid and pop. As soon as I exit my HDR game, I can tell the desktop disables HDR as the colors look bland again.

Is there a bug with Windows 11 that prevents HDR from turning on in the desktop?

edit: I tried turning the Windows HDR setting to off and damn, the colors and brightness are so much better compared to on. Wtf. It looks similar to when I minimize an HDR game.

You would think after dropping a grand on an OLED monitor, Windows would look better with HDR on but it's the opposite.

At least games clearly look better with it on.

Which monitor is that? W11 desktop HDR is much improved now, at least with my hardawre gsync monitor. Sure i still get text blooming because it is only FALD, but the colors looks normal as expected.

It may be likely your Oled monitor firmware is not correctly mapping HDR on W11 desktop.

I heard hardware gsync works fine because Nvidia is magic.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
What's the deal with HDR and auto-HDR in Windows 11? I have an OLED HDR monitor and games look great in HDR but the desktop for general non-gaming use like browsing etc. looks like ass.

I can tell when I'm in an HDR game and I minimize it, the desktop stays in HDR because the colors are vivid and pop. As soon as I exit my HDR game, I can tell the desktop disables HDR as the colors look bland again.

Is there a bug with Windows 11 that prevents HDR from turning on in the desktop?

edit: I tried turning the Windows HDR setting to off and damn, the colors and brightness are so much better compared to on. Wtf. It looks similar to when I minimize an HDR game.

You would think after dropping a grand on an OLED monitor, Windows would look better with HDR on but it's the opposite.

At least games clearly look better with it on.
I found that you have to tweak then nvidia color panel quite a bit. I dropped the brightness down to like 45 and upped the contrast to like 70. Dropped the gamma a bit too and now it looks fine. But yes, HDR is buggy as fuck on Windows 11. Turning it off and back on fixes a lot of issues.
 
On a LG 42 C2 HDR in windows 11 desktop looks good. Haven't tweaked any settings in nvidia color panel but did run the Microsoft HDR calibration app.
 
Which monitor is that? W11 desktop HDR is much improved now, at least with my hardawre gsync monitor. Sure i still get text blooming because it is only FALD, but the colors looks normal as expected.

It may be likely your Oled monitor firmware is not correctly mapping HDR on W11 desktop.

I heard hardware gsync works fine because Nvidia is magic.

Samsung G9 OLED. Can anyone else run a test for me? Load up Warzone and make sure HDR is turned on. Alt-tab to desktop. For me, desktop looks fucking fantastic when I do this. Vivid colors, no longer washed out, etc.

When I exit Warzone, desktop goes back to looking washed out again.
 
On a LG 42 C2 HDR in windows 11 desktop looks good. Haven't tweaked any settings in nvidia color panel but did run the Microsoft HDR calibration app.

Yeah I did all that. Ran the calibration app. My settings on my monitor and within Windows should all be dialed in. Games look fantastic. Desktop looks fantastic but only when I minimize an HDR game lol. Without the HDR game running in the background, desktop looks like ass. Really weird.
 
Yeah I did all that. Ran the calibration app. My settings on my monitor and within Windows should all be dialed in. Games look fantastic. Desktop looks fantastic but only when I minimize an HDR game lol. Without the HDR game running in the background, desktop looks like ass. Really weird.
Trying to think what could be the cause of this 🤔. My 55 C1 looks the same as the C2 so have no idea.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Yeah I did all that. Ran the calibration app. My settings on my monitor and within Windows should all be dialed in. Games look fantastic. Desktop looks fantastic but only when I minimize an HDR game lol. Without the HDR game running in the background, desktop looks like ass. Really weird.
Do you run games in fullscreen or bordlerless windowed mode? Switch between the two. It used to be that full screen was the preferred option but now borderless usually performs the same abd I use that almost exclusively.
 
Do you run games in fullscreen or bordlerless windowed mode? Switch between the two. It used to be that full screen was the preferred option but now borderless usually performs the same abd I use that almost exclusively.
Full screen borderless. It works great. I’m just curious as to why when I alt tab out of hdr full screen borderless game I can tell the desktop is hdr as the colors look more vibrant. But when I exit said game, the desktop looks bland again. I don’t believe windows is rendering my desktop in hdr for some reason despite all the appropriate settings being enabled
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Not exactly PC building related, but a KILLER good option if you want a full Atmos/DTS-X system passthrough,

I was using an eARC soundbar with Atmos and DTS-X support. Unfortunately I got so sick and tired of the noticeable lag on my Xbox Series X (running it through the soundbar was NOT an option since I would have lose VRR and 4K120) so I decided to go back to a dedicated 5.1.2 setup.

I bought these 5.1.2. speakers for over half off, which will do just fine for my apartment:

And this receiver for $299:

Now, I will run my PS5 and XSX through the receiver. Supposedly there is no audio delay on the XSX using Atmos when passed directly through the receiver. I also have the option to use DTS-X.
I've got this hooked up and WOW.....just wow.

It accomplished everything I wanted and more.
1. So far, no handshake issues between XSX/PS5/PC and the receiver. I got full VRR/HDR/120 through the receiver with no noticeable lag or side effects. This would be the biggest question. I ran my 4090/7800X3D through the receiver and played several games for several hours.
2. By running my XSX through the receiver and using DTS:X for spatial audio, I completely eliminated any noticeable audio delays. Dolby Atmos still had a slight delay though, it's clear that there is just a bug in there somewhere with Atmos and XSX. The scene that I test is the beginning of the Callisto Protocol where a conversation in a cockpit is taking place. On previous setup with soundbar and eARC, the Atmos audio delay was VERY noticeable in that scene.
3. Last but not least, it just sounds awesome. It completely blows away my previous setup using the high end LG soundbar with rear speakers. Spatial effects were awesome. For under $400 ($300 receiver + $100 5.1.2 speakers) I feel like I straight up stole this stuff. The 5.1.2 speakers for $80 (normally $250) feel like highway robbery.

I'll post pics of the setup later.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I want to upgrade to a 7800X3D until i saw the idle consumption... Seems like it's at least 3 times higher then what intel CPUs have, including my current one.

I use my PC 12/24 and most of that time it's idle or close to it. I don't feel comfortable knowing all this time the CPU will suck so much power.

Guess i'll wait for the next intel CPUs and pray they are good.
I hope you aren't still believing this bullshit you typed. In case you are, let me show you a very important graph, that confirms that what you said was indeed...bullshit.

dFjUqji.png
 
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nkarafo

Member
I hope you aren't still believing this bullshit you typed. In case you are, let me show you a very important graph, that confirms that what you said was indeed...bullshit.

dFjUqji.png

IDLE consumption. I'm talking about IDLE consumption of the CPU alone and not the whole system.

Reading is hard.
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
This has got to be the most humiliating defeat I have ever seen for Intel. If you're a gamer looking to build a new PC, there is simply no reason to make it Intel 14900K. A 14700K would be a better option


7800X3D: over 6 months old now,
$350, generally better performance, power efficient
14900k: just launched, $‎575, performs worse in general, consumes a lot more power

The biggest reason is that the difference in cost between the two would allow you to go from a 4070 to a 4070 Ti.

Steve asked in this video what the advantages for Intel are:
and he got nothing.

Yes, I hear the arguments that power consumption isn't a huge thing in the grand scheme of things, but higher power consumption CPUs require better built motherboards with better power delivery from VRMs, while a B650 will run a 7800X3D just fine.
 

TVexperto

Member
What is the difference between those two motherboards? I really looked at all the technical data and cannot find any difference

 

Xyphie

Member
What is the difference between those two motherboards? I really looked at all the technical data and cannot find any difference




Looks like the BTF version has 3x M.2 slots (one extra on the backside) and some extra USB ports. But it has the ATX/CPU power connectors on the backside of the board for some reason so you probably can't fit it in every case.

Edit: Fixed to DDR4 version.
 
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hinch7

Member
I hope you aren't still believing this bullshit you typed. In case you are, let me show you a very important graph, that confirms that what you said was indeed...bullshit.

dFjUqji.png
To be fair Zen chips do consume more power at idle verses Intel's processors due to their chiplet(s) designs. Its just not as covered by big Youtube channels. If you play a lot of games and some other things then yeah, but if you spend a lot of time idle on your PC, those watts do add up.



My 5800X3D runs around 27-30W idle and I think most Zen 3/4 around the same. Intel gen 12, 13 and 14 consumes a lot less idle, like in the single digits.
 
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TVexperto

Member

Looks like the BTF version has 3x M.2 slots (one extra on the backside) and some extra USB ports. But it has the ATX/CPU power connectors on the backside of the board for some reason so you probably can't fit it in every case.

Edit: Fixed to DDR4 version.
what do you mean with the power connector on the back? i want to buy an asus ap 201 matx case... does that mean it will not fit?
 

Xyphie

Member
what do you mean with the power connector on the back? i want to buy an asus ap 201 matx case... does that mean it will not fit?

All of the connectors are on the backside of the board on the BTF board. So the case will need cutouts in the motherboard plate for them so you can route them behind.

Normal:
dd0c089c-f1c5-45e6-9bcb-b64899e44aff

BTF:
950fe33d-7836-44b4-ae20-64f33840bd7a
 
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//DEVIL//

Member
To be fair Zen chips do consume more power at idle verses Intel's processors due to their chiplet(s) designs. Its just not as covered by big Youtube channels. If you play a lot of games and some other things then yeah, but if you spend a lot of time idle on your PC, those watts do add up.



My 5800X3D runs around 27-30W idle and I think most Zen 3/4 around the same. Intel gen 12, 13 and 14 consumes a lot less idle, like in the single digits.

Yes because that 1.5$ per month if that is important...
 
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hinch7

Member
Yes because that 1.5$ per month if that is important...
This may be shocking to you but not everyone lives in the US, where electricity cost is negligable. A large portion of people keep their PC's or setup for years and have them on several hours a day.

Not that I care for idle power consumption too much so long as its not ridiculous. But someone in this thread obviously cares for it.
 
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//DEVIL//

Member
This may be shocking to you but not everyone lives in the US, where electricity cost is negligable. A large portion of people keep their PC's or setup for years and have them on several hours a day.

Not that I care for idle power consumption too much so long as its not ridiculous. But someone in this thread obviously cares for it.
if you care about power consumption charges from a PC, then you can't afford a PC. no disrespect. you cant spend 2000$ on a pc ( assuming he/she/it are buying the 14900k or AMD high end cpu, just to cry about hydro bill 2$ more per month )

Not directing this msg to you hinch7, just in general, whoever is making a fuss is just a turd in the wind trying to make some noise
 
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hinch7

Member
if you care about power consumption charges from a PC, then you can't afford a PC. no disrespect. you cant spend 2000$ on a pc ( assuming he/she/it are buying the 14900k or AMD high end cpu, just to cry about hydro bill 2$ more per month )

Not directing this msg to you hinch7, just in general, whoever is making a fuss is just a turd in the wind trying to make some noise
Yeah thats true, if spending that much on high end parts and this being a major issue.. then maybe getting a performance PC isn't one of better idea's.. however we don't know his or her's financial situation. He/she may want to reduce carbon footprint maybe or whatever. I never seen anyone have idle usage as a make of break issue personally. But thats something that some may want from their PC's considering their usage.
 

Yerd

Member
All of the connectors are on the backside of the board on the BTF board. So the case will need cutouts in the motherboard plate for them so you can route them behind.

Normal:
dd0c089c-f1c5-45e6-9bcb-b64899e44aff

BTF:
950fe33d-7836-44b4-ae20-64f33840bd7a
Never encountered a board like that before. I thought it was just the top 2 connectors until you posted this Pic. Every connector is on the back.

Not just the cutout is needed. You need enough space for the cable AND the bend. The 24pin connector is fat and unwieldy. Not something that can fit in typical back channel spaces. This must be made for a specific style of case.
 
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JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
Yeah thats true, if spending that much on high end parts and this being a major issue.. then maybe getting a performance PC isn't one of better idea's.. however we don't know his or her's financial situation. He/she may want to reduce carbon footprint maybe or whatever. I never seen anyone have idle usage as a make of break issue personally. But thats something that some may want from their PC's considering their usage.
I live in an apartment. My PC is in my bedroom. So many plugs run off one circuit. A few 100W less power draw does matter when it comes to tripping breakers. Power draw isn't always about cost, it's also about heat. In my apartment it gets VERY hot even with the AC running full blast.
 

Rossco EZ

Member
just ordered a 5800x3D for £210 brand new, seemed like a no brainer.. should be able to get a decent amount back on my 5600x. wonder if i could skip am5 now or upgrade when that’s end of life with whatever the last x3D chip there is.
 

Bernoulli

M2 slut
just ordered a 5800x3D for £210 brand new, seemed like a no brainer.. should be able to get a decent amount back on my 5600x. wonder if i could skip am5 now or upgrade when that’s end of life with whatever the last x3D chip there is.
AM5 will have Zen 5 and possibly Zen 6, Zen 6 is expected to be a big change like Zen 2 was
 

winjer

Gold Member
just ordered a 5800x3D for £210 brand new, seemed like a no brainer.. should be able to get a decent amount back on my 5600x. wonder if i could skip am5 now or upgrade when that’s end of life with whatever the last x3D chip there is.

Do you have a 4090 or 4080.
If not, you won't notice any differences between the 5800X3D and the 7800X3D, because you will be bottlenecked by the GPU.
 

Rossco EZ

Member
Do you have a 4090 or 4080.
If not, you won't notice any differences between the 5800X3D and the 7800X3D, because you will be bottlenecked by the GPU.
no just a 3060ti right now but will be upgrading to either the 4070 series refresh or waiting for 5070.
 
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hinch7

Member
I live in an apartment. My PC is in my bedroom. So many plugs run off one circuit. A few 100W less power draw does matter when it comes to tripping breakers. Power draw isn't always about cost, it's also about heat. In my apartment it gets VERY hot even with the AC running full blast.
Sorry for the late reply. Didn't see the message but damn thats got to be annoying. And same and is also the main reason why I try keep TDP down. My PC heats up the room fast and is horrible to use in the hotter months of the year. And why I try go for lesser wattage and undervolt as much as I can without affecting performance. Also less noisy too if you have overbuilt coolers and fans which don't need to spin up so fast for normal usage and gaming.

just ordered a 5800x3D for £210 brand new, seemed like a no brainer.. should be able to get a decent amount back on my 5600x. wonder if i could skip am5 now or upgrade when that’s end of life with whatever the last x3D chip there is.
Damn thats cheap. Got mine for £240 (after rebate) and I thought I had a good deal! Supposedly AMD is continuing support for AM5 through 2025 so chances are that Zen 6 may be AM5 still. Which may be a decent time to jump in as thats bound to be much faster than the 7nm X3D we have right now. In any case for just gaming it should be enough for a long while as you're most likely going to be GPU bound anyways. Especially for ports for console games.
 
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LiquidMetal14

hide your water-based mammals
I want to upgrade to a 7800X3D until i saw the idle consumption... Seems like it's at least 3 times higher then what intel CPUs have, including my current one.

I use my PC 12/24 and most of that time it's idle or close to it. I don't feel comfortable knowing all this time the CPU will suck so much power.

Guess i'll wait for the next intel CPUs and pray they are good.
This makes me laugh as I'm not saying you're wrong, but if you see the polar opposite, you'll see that some of the Intel CPUs go crazy with high core utilization if you just move your mouse around.

I was watching some reviews and they were even poking fun at this since Intel likes to claim some power use or efficiency, but it's in very specific in detailed scenarios. It isn't to say that the point isn't valid, but unless you like to just turn their computer on and sit there for a long time then I guess that's a proven point. I would highly consider more than just a variable of idle power consumption as Intel absolutely shreds through power. I don't need to link you but you can watch a gamers Nexus video that just came out this week telling you all about efficiency for your dollar. That's more valid than what I'm even telling you. So I suggest you go watch that.
 
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Rossco EZ

Member
Then save your money for now.
By the time you get a 5070, the 9800X3D will probably already be on the market.
that’s my plan, i went for the cpu upgrade as it should give better 0.1% and 1% lows from what i’ve seen. also should be a good pairing for that next gpu upgrade.
Damn thats cheap. Got mine for £240 (after rebate) and I thought I had a good deal! Supposedly AMD is continuing support for AM5 through 2025 so chances are that Zen 6 may be AM5 still. Which may be a decent time to jump in as thats bound to be much faster than the 7nm X3D we have right now.
yeah i almost got it from amazon the other night for £262 so im glad i waited. even if i quickly sell my 5600x for £60-£70 (need to check ebay at what they go for) i’ll of paid around 140-150 for it so thought why not.

that’ll be nice if zen 6 gets supported, that will be when i’ll jump and do another upgrade. other wise next thing is a gpu upgrade.
how are temps on your 5800x3D? i know it runs hot and i have a peerless assassin 120 to cool it but did you undervolt at all?
 
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