NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

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For Tetris though, looser spring with a diamond gate is better.

Edit: Unless you're playing Tetris with Card Captor Sakura for the PS1. It handles diagonals better.
 
I've never got on with the JLW and JLF I have, used to love the sticks that came with Electrocoin cabs, the little red ones if anyone remembers them, is there anything comparable on the market today?
 
I'll ask again for advice:

The plexi on my TE is popping up a bit on the bottom because the screw in one corner just won't go in all the way and keeps turning. I've tried switching the screw I use there but it makes no difference. Is something wrong with the hole or what? It's only slightly annoying, but still.
 
InsertNameHere said:
I'll ask again for advice:

The plexi on my TE is popping up a bit on the bottom because the screw in one corner just won't go in all the way and keeps turning. I've tried switching the screw I use there but it makes no difference. Is something wrong with the hole or what? It's only slightly annoying, but still.
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the thread inside the TE which the screws goes into is a standard nut held in place. If you open the TE and dissasemble it you will have access to the nut and maybe reposition it or re-glue it in place.
 
I feel like such an idiot. There was something clattering around inside the stick when I got it and it turned out there was a nut loose, and I just took it out and didn't think any of it. This just reminded me of that.

Thanks.
 
Does anyone have a guide or a link to the page on Shoruken that describes how to replace the artwork on my TE stick? I want it done the right way and would be willing to pay someone to do it for me.
 
Superblatt said:
Does anyone have a guide or a link to the page on Shoruken that describes how to replace the artwork on my TE stick? I want it done the right way and would be willing to pay someone to do it for me.
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Replacing art on TE is very easy and anyone can do it. Just go to this thread on SRK and get the TE template. Put all kinds of pretty pictures on it, and then go to Art's Hobbies site and buy the plexi you want.

Round One is normal TE with bezel, TE extended goes past the bezel, and Full Panel is the entire top. Any one of these can work on your template, just make sure the art template you make matches the template you want. Art will also print your art and has instructions on his site for sending it to him.

If your PS skills are not so hot, just gather the art you want and ask in this SRK thread for help with a template. Prepare for a bit of a wait if you get it made for you though. There are some decent freely available templates available in the first thread I linked as well if you are interested in those.
 
Superblatt said:
That was enough to convince me. I just ordered 6 black sanwa buttons and the Aluminum Bat Top in Red. DROOOLLLL.

tggl_bat_pr2__75256_zoom.jpg
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I wonder if the weight of these things affect your game? Like do you need a stiffer spring to go along with that?
 
Sorry to bug you guys again but I have a question regarding some stuff.

http://gamesharkstore.ca/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4762&idCategory=274

Gonna pull the trigger on this I imagine, (and an LS-32 at some point soon), but I have a question regarding a few things with this "S" casing.

Does this change anything in regards to using the kitty mod for the multiplatform usage? Does it change anything, in fact? Be it in terms of art templates or parts mounting or even changing bezel colours and so on.

I assume it's basically the same stick inside and out with the few inches of base cut off on either side, but I just want to make sure before pulling the trigger. The ergonomics of the front and height look identical otherwise.

(And to be honest I liked those base sides. I saw somewhere , although the site escapes me at the moment, where you could get wood ones as replacements and thus paint them whatever colour you chose. I assume that's an option here but it's not make or break.)
 
Yes, you need to buy the Kitty S rather than the Kitty. It's the same board AFAIK but there are a couple extra harnesses to use or something.


EDIT: You can find the wood sides here: http://focusattack.com/ I think they make a TE and a TE S version.
 
That's the site, yeah.

Thanks for the info, Rivals. Gonna pull the trigger now. Thanks a tonne for the info to all you guys, actually. Much appreciated.

Edit: And done.
 
jhferry said:
I wonder if the weight of these things affect your game? Like do you need a stiffer spring to go along with that?
Click to expand...

The weight definitely means you need to get an extra or different spring if you want to maintain the same stiffness as a normal plastic top. I put one onto my LS32 and it now feels about as loose as a JLF.
 
Parallax Scroll said:
How are you liking it? I wish I had a hitbox.
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I'm not that guy but I can throw my 2 cents in. It's awesome. But you have to be dedicated. It's definitely not an instant thing.
 
Threi said:
Check out b15sdm's latest stick on SRK.

all i got to say is THE BALLTOP IS A GODDAMN WATCH

THE BALLTOP


WHAT THE HELL
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OH MAAAAAAAH GAAAAAAAAAAAAAWD

qlZJH.jpg

WnTOm.jpg

dNfX5.jpg

MU0r7.jpg


This is a steam punk themed stick built for a fellow SRK member. He wanted me to go all on the steam punk theme with all the pipes, gears, etc.

- Solid full clear acrylic case with hardwood cladding with brass screws to match theme
- Hand cut and engraved brass sheet below top plexi panel.
- Hand cut and roughly sanded bottom stainless steel panel for underside
- Genuine clock work parts for internals
- 8mm copper piping to hide/tidy cables
- Random silver wire acting like cable tidy
- Seimitsu PS-14-KN buttons all round with copper leaf inserts with simple light up LEDs on activation
- Sanwa JLF stick with a real wind up pocket watch. Sadly, I ruined it when I was drilling the hole for the threaded insert. A little crumb of plastic fell into the gears and stopped it from working.
- Datel/Paewang pcb for xbox 360, ps3 & pc support.
Click to expand...

HNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNGH
 
haha sloth just came to post that. Almost all of B15's sticks are incredible but that one there is a legitimate work of art. Incredible stuff. That ball top floored me.
 
The part that really bows my mind is this:
- Sanwa JLF stick with a real wind up pocket watch. Sadly, I ruined it when I was drilling the hole for the threaded insert. A little crumb of plastic fell into the gears and stopped it from working.
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In other words he could have had a working clock inside the balltop.

Wr8IJ.jpg
 
don't really like it tbh. . . too much going on. I would go as far as to say it's ugly the buttons and stick area is lovely, but the theme doesn't go together as a package.

thing is too many ppl nuthug and if enough ppl do that any criticism is probably trolled.
 
I did it GAF, bit the bullet and just ordered a Hori VLX Pro. Should be here this week, costed a ton to get it to the UK but you only live once.
 
CadetMahoney said:
don't really like it tbh. . . too much going on. I would go as far as to say it's ugly the buttons and stick area is lovely, but the theme doesn't go together as a package.

thing is too many ppl nuthug and if enough ppl do that any criticism is probably trolled.
Click to expand...

I agree to an extent. I think if maybe the case had a metalworking look to it rather than the acrylic it would look a bit less garish (but keep the plexi top being clear).

Ironically, I rather like the copper tubing being used for the cable tidying because the rigidness seems better than using plastic tubing. I could easily see some light metal tubing being used in any other stick build (and might even do it myself, were I feeling up to the task at the time).

I also just noticed that the winder to the clock is on the balltop still. As much as it may slightly ruin the motif, the fact that it's still there despite the stopwatch not actually working anymore seems like it would get in the way.
 
awwyeahgurrl said:
I did it GAF, bit the bullet and just ordered a Hori VLX Pro. Should be here this week, costed a ton to get it to the UK but you only live once.
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Well try not to kill yourself when you're hauling it around then :P
 
awwyeahgurrl said:
I've been on the fence about buying it for like 6 months now, so I just thought fuck it.
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One benefit of that stick is that you can dual mod it with just a philips screwdriver. Get a VLX Kitty, screw it in, plug in the cables, and you're done.
 
Hitokage said:
One benefit of that stick is that you can dual mod it with just a philips screwdriver. Get a VLX Kitty, screw it in, plug in the cables, and you're done.
Click to expand...

Will look into that, thanks for the heads up. Just need the bag now, I know hori don't ship it outside of the US.
 
awwyeahgurrl said:
I did it GAF, bit the bullet and just ordered a Hori VLX Pro. Should be here this week, costed a ton to get it to the UK but you only live once.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the VLX Pro family my brother!
 
Hitokage said:
Imp2 + madcatz 360 pcb. The hard way.
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Is this pretty much the only option I have then? I feel like I really fucked up getting the PS3 version but it's my main console and I didn't want to wait 6-8 weeks for the 360 version to come into stock.
 
Oh I'm fully aware that no matter what I have to replace the PCB, I'm fine with that but I've never done PS3 to 360 so I'm not sure what the best option is.

I see that focusattack won't have the akishop PS360 in until after September so I may just wait until they come back into stock but other than that I guess I'm looking at an IMP+cthulhu?
 
Hitokage said:
As opposed to everything else about the stick?
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I mean getting them to be able to move without being in danger of falling out when the stick is being tossed around (like when you're running) would be a problem.

I don't get why the blue LED's though.
 
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