JadedWriter
Member
And here I was thinking "They did it because it was more ergonomic." I guess they just didn't want to irritate the old guard then. I mean yeah I could adapt, but I really like the mode dial thing personally.
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
andythinkpad
Member
Come on, its F mount. There are plenty of 2.8 zooms. Did you try to look. Tokina 50-135mm 2.8 Sigma 50-150 2.8 and 10+ 70-200mm variants you can choose from.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah, I heard the Tokina isn't that great actually, but I do want the Sigma 50-150 but it's damn near impossible to find. Tamron actually makes a version of the one I want, but it seems to be Macro and it has no vibration reduction, and it's narrow as heck on an apsc.
Anybody know anything about this lens?
Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD (IF) Macro AF Lens for Nikon AF
It seems like a bargain, which means too good to be true and would probably be the lens I'd use when I get a D750.
I'd just love it if switching auto ISO on/off was as easy as switching between AF/MF or M/A/S/P. That small trip into the menu (I assume your camera has a button and pressing it gives you a menu with various ISO options including auto) feels like a chore when it's done the fiftieth time to me.
Maybe just my use case, but I typically shoot raw at ISO 100 (boosting in post unless it's very dark) and JPEGs where in not planning on doing any PP with auto ISO. I don't do it for work and have limited storage so quite often I'll switch to JPEG knowing that I will never have time to post process anyways, but when I shoot raw I obsess over not having a single highlight be blown
If you are a seasoned Pentaxian, that dial for ISO is kinda unnecessary but I guess it does help keeping the workflow consistent. For me, I usually set my camera for Auto ISO (100-3200). If I want fixed ISO, I just press the ISO button and rotate one of the dials to set what I want to set it to. When I'm done I just press Green button to reset it to the default auto ISO behavior.
The green button on Pentax camera is basically a reset button. So I set my camera's defaults to settings I typically like to use and apply overrides as necessary. Afterward, I just press the green button to reset what was changed to the default behaviors. So I never have to second guess what settings I am in. It's also part of the reason I pretty much never rely on the User modes since I forget what they are after a while.
For manual mode, I can even press the green button to ask the camera to meter for me base on the currently selected Program line. If I like what it has chosen for aperture and shutter speed, then it's done for me. Otherwise, I can override it, but since it already put them roughly in the ballpark (my Program line is usually in MTF mode, meaning the camera will try to pick the sharpest setting for the lens I am using), it saves me a bit of time.
Having that third dial will make workflow more consistent without having to think about overrides I guess. I'm hoping to see it on the next APSC body along with updated IBIS, wifi, articulating screen; that will be worth upgrading.
To turn on LED. So you can do things in the dark.
DarkJediKnight
Member
To turn on LED. So you can do things in the dark.
Why hasn't anyone thought about this before?
I always wondered why the buttons or mount identifiers are not glow in the dark or light up on non-flagship cameras from Nikon and Canon.
JadedWriter
Member
Lol makes sense. I think my bulb switch just turns on the light to allow me to see my camera setting in the dark without turning on my LCD screen.To turn on LED. So you can do things in the dark.
Cause they want you to drop your shit so you can buy another one.
Yea I'm not sure. I also like Pentax K-S1's glowing button on the back but due to the reception of that camera I am guessing they won't bother with the design again, even though the complaints are mostly the front LEDs.
And this is why I would never buy a demo Pentax K-1 unit...
https://youtu.be/c6bVqtb5SdI?t=23
That's probably the right thing to do although all these people dumping their APSC equipments for FF makes it hard to not want to collect more stuff...
A macro lens; a friend of a friend suggested that. I'm still sub basic level of understanding so I'm not sure how much I should heap on myself. I've dedicated an hour a day to going through the manual.
JadedWriter
Member
Do you intend on doing any macro photography? Though from what I hear they're really good for portrait work as well, they just take a while to focus.
Watching that made me feel queasy.
Possibley. I'd love to take pictures of bugs.
JadedWriter
Member
Then yeah get a macro lens. Anybody here know the recommended focal length for that is? I think it's 105mm but I'm not sure, especially for bugs.
The DFA 100mm f2.8 WR lens is in such deep discount right now it'd be worth it if you are into macro. The main annoying thing about that lens is that there's no focus limiter so it takes a long time to focus if it picks the wrong end to attain focus. But you are most likely going to be doing MF for macro it's not too awful.
(click on image for larger version)
Edit: The other option and slightly cheaper is maybe the raynox dcr-250 adapter for your 50-200mm lens. It does a decent job on that lens IIRC.
Not my pic, raynox + DA 50-200mm
Hey guys, sorry this is my first time posting in this thread. my partner is looking to get a camera (first timer), and was looking for recommendations. I know nothing of the area, so I am posting here on behalf of him hoping to find a couple recommendations for a good, easy to use beginner camera. He isn't looking into photography as a major passion or anything (at least not yet), so ease of use is probably a good thing to consider. Here are the questions answered from the OP:
1. What is your budget budget?
About $600
2. Main purpose of the camera?
Take on trips/hikes/out and about. Mainly want for better quality photos than a phone, but the potential to be used in similar day-to-day situations.
3. What form factor is most appealing to you?
Something more compact, he isn't looking for a high-end DSLR or anything. Doesn't need to be super super tiny, but not something that can fit into his backpack without adding a ton of bulk.
4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)
He's open to the idea, but for the purposes of this let's lean towards no.
5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?
Nothing, really. Mostly just smartphones.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks so much, guys!
1. What is your budget budget?
About $600
2. Main purpose of the camera?
Take on trips/hikes/out and about. Mainly want for better quality photos than a phone, but the potential to be used in similar day-to-day situations.
3. What form factor is most appealing to you?
Something more compact, he isn't looking for a high-end DSLR or anything. Doesn't need to be super super tiny, but not something that can fit into his backpack without adding a ton of bulk.
4. Will you be investing in the camera? (buying more stuff for it later)
He's open to the idea, but for the purposes of this let's lean towards no.
5. Any cameras you've used before or liked?
Nothing, really. Mostly just smartphones.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks so much, guys!
andythinkpad
Member
RX100 G7X DL 24-85mm X30
JadedWriter
Member
If he doesn't require a viewfinder, have any interest in moving beyond a kit lens then he should probably look for a cheap RX100...if he wants zoom then maybe this might be up his ally:
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1000 Digital Camera
Did I do good CameraGaf?
Haha it took me quite awhile to figure out this was four different cameras.
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
Woody Invincible
Banned
Alright guys, I have a T3i, but I want to start a photography business later this year, so I need a kinda-proish camera, and delegate the canon to being backup. Would I be making a mistake by picking up the Samsung NX1 w/the 16-50 S lens and the 50-150 S lens? The 50-150 S lens is $1600 alone. So that's around $3200 for the camera and two lenses.
theepicoftyler
Member
If you were starting a photography business, I would think you would want to go the route of something more proven. If you're willing to drop $3000+ on a setup, I'd try to go for something full frame and for something from a company known for cameras... which Samsung really isn't. I'm sure it's a good camera, but I think you'd get more mileage out of something from Canon, or if you're set on mirrorless, look at Sony/Fuji/Pentax's offerings.
andythinkpad
Member
If you use Samsung professionally, you might want to mask the logo with vinyl tapes.
Not saying the gears are not good, but clients care what kind of equipment you use.
Not saying the gears are not good, but clients care what kind of equipment you use.
JadedWriter
Member
Holy shit lol. I guess I'm never moving out of Nikons brand.
Samsung would be a bad choice for a professional environment given that they are abandoning the camera market. So you may find support and or replacements difficult to find down the road. What is it that your T3i can't do that requires you to upgrade? If you want the T3i to be used as a backup it makes absolutely no sense to buy a camera and lens setup from a different manufacturer either. You should be looking at another Canon body.
If you are going to use the T3i for backup I would stay in the canon system.
QualityPixel
Banned
Sounds like the 70-200mm F/4 is the lens for you.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/897230-REG/Nikon_2202_NIKKOR_AF_S_70_200mm_f_4_0G.html
https://www.lensauthority.com/products/nikon-70-200mm-f-4g-af-s-vr?gclid=CJLws-Xyk8sCFQiUaQod_ckOow
(there are 3 Sigma 50-150mm lenses on ebay for Nikon mount)
JadedWriter
Member
Do you not have any Canon lenses? You could probably get a 6D or a 5D Mark III if you want to really be professional.
Dat price tag. I actually also found a really good Sigma 50-150 on KEH.
https://www.keh.com/shop/sigma-50-150mm-f-2-8-apo-dc-ex-hsm-os-autofocus-lens-for-nikon-aps-c-sensor-dslrs-77-698242.html
The ones on Ebay for the most part aren't even in this country and they look pretty beat up. I would know, I looked at those. I'm going to play this on a situation to situation basis and if it really feels like I'm searching for reach then I'll get a telephoto.
What kind of photography company business are we talking here?
Portraits? Products?
You have the D7100 right? use that screw drive AF man!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...af-d.TRS0&_nkw=nikon+80-200+2.8+af-d&_sacat=0
Old push/pull 80-200 2.8 are cheap. Circle zoom Af-D a little more.
Unless you are shooting birds/really fast stuff the AF speed should be adequate. No VR though.
JadedWriter
Member
I'll figure that out later since I literally have no wide angle with that it's literally just a stalker lens.
this lens in good condition?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXC-Sigma-AF-APO-50-150mm-f-2-8-EX-DC-HSM-for-Nikon-from-Japan-533360-/252298623469?hash=item3abe2b79ed:g:U8YAAOSwKtlWpKmP
Looks beat up.
QualityPixel
Banned
Looks to be in pretty good shape. Sigma lenses of around that age used a rubber grip for the zoom/focus that would just attract dust. I'd bet an alcohol wipe lenses would clean it up nice. I clean the outside of my camera gear with a clean retired tooth brush, so my old Sigma 24-70 still looks pretty nice.
JadedWriter
Member
Well cool. Hopefully when my tax return money comes I can get this lens...from somebody if I ever need it. Would hate to buy this and not need it. I just realized that's the version without OS. Is OS really necessary if you're dealing with people? I mean either way if the shutter speed is low enough they're going to be blurred with or without it.
sechsterangriff
Member
Does anyone here know of a good EU deal for the Sony A7RII ? One that is not a grey import.
I'm thinking about taking advantage of the British Pound nosedive, but I don't know about any reputable webstores that ship to the EU mainland.
I'm thinking about taking advantage of the British Pound nosedive, but I don't know about any reputable webstores that ship to the EU mainland.
JadedWriter
Member
My job has either a Canon 6D or 60D, I don't remember which it is, but we also have some good lenses including a 2.8 70-200 red ring canon, L lens I believe so I'll probably just use that as a spare body if I need to along with my 7100. So I think I'm going to try to find an ebay deal for the Sigma 18-35 Art.
QualityPixel
Banned
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but what kind of images do you wish to take?
Joelstinton14
Member
Not sure whether to stick in a late pre-order for the X-Pro 2. Not sure if i need it, i've currently got a D700 and Mamiya 7. I don't really need it, but ..it's shiny.. and to be honest its a lot lighter than the D700.
Currently not doing that much shooting and i'm not overally into street photography, but it might make a nice change of pace.
Currently not doing that much shooting and i'm not overally into street photography, but it might make a nice change of pace.
brochiller
Member
Didn't realize this thread existed. Posted this in the photography thread:
Thinking of picking up either a Olympus EPL7 or Panasonic GM5 soon. Anybody on GAF have any experience with either of them?
Thinking of picking up either a Olympus EPL7 or Panasonic GM5 soon. Anybody on GAF have any experience with either of them?
Art Teitlebaum
Member
I really like the GM5 + Panaleica 15/1.7 combination, because of the aperture ring which makes it really fun to use, especially when travelling or for street shooting. The kit zoom isn't too shabby either. For bigger hands the body is a little bit too compact, but I got used to it.
But be warned, the built-in viewfinder which is often mentioned as the main feature in comparison to other small m43 cams isn't anything to write home about. It is an emergency solution in broad daylight, but nothing more. Dark and tiny.
Try both cameras and go for the better handling, imagewise they are more or less on par imo with the Oly out of camera jpegs having a slight advantage in their colours for my personal taste.
Short comparison sheet:http://cameradecision.com/compare/Olympus-PEN-E-PL7-vs-Panasonic-Lumix-DMC-GM5
I have been using an EPL5 for the past year. It is a nice camera, was happy with the photos it produced. Ended up buying the external viewfinder for it as the screen is very hard to view in daylight. The auto focus is not great when trying to take photos of moving subjects, not sure if that was upgraded for the EPL7. I found the controls very fiddly at times as the buttons are all very small and I have fairly large hands. But I made it work for me. If I was buying a camera again I would have gone with an Olympus OMD-EM10 instead.
JadedWriter
Member
Got a sigma 18-35 art lens for less than 600 bucks. Great condition too.
I'm learning a lot about cameras these days, and I plan on doing a photographer education either this or next year. Learning about white balance, ISO, shutter speed, aperture, grain, compression, RAW and all those funny details. It feels good.
I'm practicing shooting all manual, with manual focus, in RAW format, and changing all the settings myself and trying out stuff. That's what I'm gonna do this week.
Unfortunately, it's really hard to get into image editing. I have learned a lot in Lightroom at the place I go, but it's literally impossible for me to sit with Adobe Lightroom CC at home, because it's damn expensive like all the other Adobe software. It really sucks.
I'm shooting with a Canon 60D with a 18-55mm lens by the way.
I'm practicing shooting all manual, with manual focus, in RAW format, and changing all the settings myself and trying out stuff. That's what I'm gonna do this week.
Unfortunately, it's really hard to get into image editing. I have learned a lot in Lightroom at the place I go, but it's literally impossible for me to sit with Adobe Lightroom CC at home, because it's damn expensive like all the other Adobe software. It really sucks.
I'm shooting with a Canon 60D with a 18-55mm lens by the way.
I haven't used it in a while but you could try out free raw image editors like RawTherapee. The interface may not be the same but most of editors have similar categories of sliders like LL/Camera raw.
120$ a year isn't cheap if you're poor though. Almost the price of some cameras when you think of how long they last for amateurs.
jongkookie
Member
Meh, I've been paying $30 a month for full Creative Cloud access for the last 2 years. All I did was cut back on Starbucks to account for it lol.
But then again, it's worth it tbh... I use After Effects, Premiere, Audition, Lightroom, Photoshop and Illustrator for my job so getting access to 6 programs for that kind of money is fan-fncking-tastic imo.
$10 a month really isn't that bad when I can spend that much on a lunch.
.
Especially for a professional that's a fucking steal. I just wish there was a cheaper option for casual users who don't need it for their job.
I think it depends on who it's for. For a professional it's cheap, but for a regular consumer I find it a bit much. I don't see 10 bucks a year, but 600$ in five years that I don't have to spend. Food, internet and phone contracts all cost more, but I need them.
I don't have a constant income though and have never liked spending money even if I could afford it.
It really just depends on how you value it. If you are a student or someone with low income or just being frugal, $10 a month is still $10 a month.
LR5 costed like $100, it's been 2.5 years. Monthly cost = $3 so far, and I can stretch it out til LR7 probably. After my LR6.4's trial expired, I can't believe how much faster LR5 feels going back to it.
Considering how LR often is said to have one of the worst raw processors compared to the others, I'm starting to wonder why I need LR. The biggest issue with migrating right now is that I probably will need to re-export everything to tiff with all the editing written to the output file or just keep LR5 around for the current files and start editing new files in another editor altogether, since the edited info isn't really portable to different raw editors most of the time.
LR5 costed like $100, it's been 2.5 years. Monthly cost = $3 so far, and I can stretch it out til LR7 probably. After my LR6.4's trial expired, I can't believe how much faster LR5 feels going back to it.
Considering how LR often is said to have one of the worst raw processors compared to the others, I'm starting to wonder why I need LR. The biggest issue with migrating right now is that I probably will need to re-export everything to tiff with all the editing written to the output file or just keep LR5 around for the current files and start editing new files in another editor altogether, since the edited info isn't really portable to different raw editors most of the time.
According to?
And what is better? C1? I tried it and found the interface to be really bad. And the saturation their RAW processor applies by default is ridiculous.
Seems like a bullshit comment as the truth is it all depends on the cameras used and the program used and there are a wide variety of factors in that. But it's to be expected in a world where opinions are drastically different when it comes to camera gear etc. That gulf will widen when pro's get involved and amateur enthusiasts have stunted opinions and access to varying degrees of equipment.
It just means how it is not great at interpreting the raw data to viewable image format that you see on the screen.
A lot of people like C1. I don't have a formal opinion on C1 yet, but I do prefer having images go through my camera's software first before bringing it into LR, when I'm not lazy, since that's the only way to get the images the way manufactures think how the images are supposed to be demosaiced. LR is still horrid at X-trans sensor imo so having a Fuji camera as my companion cam makes the problem worse.