Joel Was Right
Member
It wouldn't make much sense to get both together. The 23mm, to me, offers better image quality. But the 35mm isn't enough to look down upon, and offers better portability.
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
It wouldn't make much sense to get both together. The 23mm, to me, offers better image quality. But the 35mm isn't enough to look down upon, and offers better portability.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Let's say I want to record video, much of which at night.
Any tips for cameras and lenses? Reading resources?
Budget up to ~$2,000 AU. Long term investment.
Any tips for cameras and lenses? Reading resources?
Budget up to ~$2,000 AU. Long term investment.
Sony A7S?
Are you specifically wanting a video camera? Or a camera that does both stills and video? The A7s that the other poster recommended would use your entire budget just on the body with no lenses, and even then that would be the price buying it used.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Cheers!
Predominantly for film, so yeah, video camera. Not too concerned about still, especially if I can get a better video camera for the same price at the expense of still photography.
Astral/H3X
Member
So given that the A7ii now has phase detection.... Wouldn't it be awesome if it could use PD instead of contrast to show live peaking? I think that'd be swell.
If this is already possible, let me know haha.
If this is already possible, let me know haha.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
No-- unless you treat them as effective f-numbers based on the effective focal length (which really means comparable field of view). Read more (written by someone else). The biggest thing I learned from that was that the depth-of-field guides are pretty optimistic because they are based on a notion of the human eye that is worse than it is in reality.
I've been messing around with this thing I just got last week. Really having some mixed feelings about it:
Roxant Pro
Pros:
It definitely helps a lot with a stable shot. It doesn't eliminate it but it does help.
Cons:
It really takes a lot of work to get it properly calibrated.
My first time during setup took me close to 10 minutes making adjustments and even in the end it wasn't perfect. It leaned forward just a hair and I couldn't figure out how to comensate for it.
There is no quick release plate so even if you get it all dialed in, after you unscrew your camera you're going to have to re-calibrate it when you attach your camera the next time. Each time I put the camera back in it I have to fumble with it for quite some time to get it right.
You have to set your focus before recording your shot because adjusting the focus ring is next to impossible.
Im thinking about trying something else out instead.
Cheap Camera Rig
Can anyone recommend or have any comments on these relatively inexpensive rigs?
Roxant Pro
Pros:
It definitely helps a lot with a stable shot. It doesn't eliminate it but it does help.
Cons:
It really takes a lot of work to get it properly calibrated.
My first time during setup took me close to 10 minutes making adjustments and even in the end it wasn't perfect. It leaned forward just a hair and I couldn't figure out how to comensate for it.
There is no quick release plate so even if you get it all dialed in, after you unscrew your camera you're going to have to re-calibrate it when you attach your camera the next time. Each time I put the camera back in it I have to fumble with it for quite some time to get it right.
You have to set your focus before recording your shot because adjusting the focus ring is next to impossible.
Im thinking about trying something else out instead.
Cheap Camera Rig
Can anyone recommend or have any comments on these relatively inexpensive rigs?
supernormal
Member
Wait for the A6300 which releases on March 10 for 1,000. Pretty much the best bang for your buck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk-4OuvUzlg
Astral/H3X
Member
Eeeehhhhhh I've used them before, but I guess Id say they help find *acceptable* focus.
JadedWriter
Member
That looks like something you use to mix cake batter.I've been messing around with this thing I just got last week. Really having some mixed feelings about it:
Roxant Pro
Pros:
It definitely helps a lot with a stable shot. It doesn't eliminate it but it does help.
Cons:
It really takes a lot of work to get it properly calibrated.
My first time during setup took me close to 10 minutes making adjustments and even in the end it wasn't perfect. It leaned forward just a hair and I couldn't figure out how to comensate for it.
There is no quick release plate so even if you get it all dialed in, after you unscrew your camera you're going to have to re-calibrate it when you attach your camera the next time. Each time I put the camera back in it I have to fumble with it for quite some time to get it right.
You have to set your focus before recording your shot because adjusting the focus ring is next to impossible.
Im thinking about trying something else out instead.
Cheap Camera Rig
Can anyone recommend or have any comments on these relatively inexpensive rigs?
It probably works better as a cake mixer honestly.
JadedWriter
Member
Shoulder rig is better for standing in one place without a tripod, you are still going to get significant shake cam when walking.
Gimbal is really the only way short of a real steady cam rig, but they are pretty expensive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_K8P0qdilg
Shot this with a Ronin-M and GH4. GH4 from all the DSLR/mirrorless cameras seems to be the only one that can focus in video mode acceptably by itself.
Yeah I've had my eye on the Ronin for a bit. Awesome clip you did too. I can hear you shuffling/running at parts and its just super steady.
Primarily I want to use it for doing real estate footage. Slow pans indoors, walking into rooms etc.
Would the Ronin be my best bet?
jongkookie
Member
Interesting.
Btw, this is actually a really good article comparing sensor sizes. It answered the question I had before. But again, all it points is to getting a full frame body haha.
Lol, I honestly don't even use the numbers on the barrel coz once you know how to use a camera + lens, it becomes instinctual to focus correctly. You might not hit the exact focus, but you'll be close enough where it won't be that difficult to adjust.
I actually wanted to buy that rig before but I ended up with this:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/platinu...ount/8337177.p?id=1219325217229&skuId=8337177
What I found is that on my rig, you need to lock the handle to a position where it will minimize the sway as much as possible. So instead of hanging it straight up, I push it forward, effectively locking it, then there's a lot less sway. Pair it with Warp Stabilizer or Mercalli's stabilizer software, the footage looks pretty decent.
Here's a quick comparison that I just did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tP4M1MLKMhE&feature=youtu.be
Granted the end result is due to the amazing stabilizer software, but the rig is much better to have as there's no camera jitter that you get when holding it by hand. The jitter is actually pretty impossible to remove from my experience so I guess you could say I'm alright with the rig.
Astral/H3X
Member
I don't use the numbers to focus, I use them to prefocus.
There are lots of times where being able to say, "okay something will end up over there", and be able to set it to five feet/whatever and have it almost perfectly focused ahead of time. Also useful when I'm walking towards a subject, to be able to do the same thing instead of doing all of the focus when I get to it.
Holy crap that footage looks great!
I've been stabilizing my footage in post when its needed in AE but yours is really impressive.
Im pretty sure the reason I'm having such a hard time with my setup is because my camera/lens are over the recommended weight of 2.1 lbs.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
It really was amazing how right full-frame felt when I got it. I don't know why since I had no history of using 35mm SLRs. Would I feel the same way again if I shot with MF? (probably)
I sold my Pentax K100D and now am looking for a new one. I had a Sony H7 before. (always liked both, prefer the Pentax ofc). Only bad thing was that it wasn't really good for night photos.
I'd like to spend from - up to and no more than 150 - 200. Going to buy it used (ebay or some local website in spain). Id like to have two lenses (close range and some for photos taken from far). I can buy it just with one lens (close range) and buy the other later.
Thoughts?
I'd like to spend from - up to and no more than 150 - 200. Going to buy it used (ebay or some local website in spain). Id like to have two lenses (close range and some for photos taken from far). I can buy it just with one lens (close range) and buy the other later.
Thoughts?
Did you get rid of your K mount lenses? If not an used K30 is probably in that range.
John Blade
Member
I've been messing around with this thing I just got last week. Really having some mixed feelings about it:
Roxant Pro
Pros:
It definitely helps a lot with a stable shot. It doesn't eliminate it but it does help.
Cons:
It really takes a lot of work to get it properly calibrated.
My first time during setup took me close to 10 minutes making adjustments and even in the end it wasn't perfect. It leaned forward just a hair and I couldn't figure out how to comensate for it.
There is no quick release plate so even if you get it all dialed in, after you unscrew your camera you're going to have to re-calibrate it when you attach your camera the next time. Each time I put the camera back in it I have to fumble with it for quite some time to get it right.
You have to set your focus before recording your shot because adjusting the focus ring is next to impossible.
Im thinking about trying something else out instead.
Cheap Camera Rig
Can anyone recommend or have any comments on these relatively inexpensive rigs?
What camera you're using for that stabilizer? I can inform you, the one you got is design for lighter camera (point and shoot, Go Pro, or entry level DSLR camera). Also, those stabilizer are not design for quick as you need time to set it up.
Canon 70D...definitely way too heavy.
If you really want to do a complete walkthrough in one take shot yeah, I would get a gimbal.
You could probably get most walking into room shots with just a slider, you can also get one of those skateboard wheel dollies but they need a really smooth floor to work well.
John Blade
Member
What lens are you using for this? Yea, too heavy for the one you got. Would recommend to return for a refund if I were you.
A slider is something to consider if you want a pan shot for the indoor. If you want to stick with stabilizer, I would recommend to look into a stabilizer vest with your stabilizer as it will help quite a bit when you're moving. Do NOTE: I would recommend to get a stabilizer vest with double arm as it will help you quite a bit to reduce the shake when you're moving quick. Still, you need time to understand how to use it as it isn't like a gimbal as you need to know the technique of using it.
If you want to avoid stabilizer, then a gimbals is the next choice but NOTE: would try to find a gimbal that isn't too big. If you're doing real estate footage, I am betting not all home have big wide space for you to move around. If you're in that situation, using a gimbals will get tricky to use. Something a small gimbals is great for that but smaller gimbals mean smaller camera. Something to need to think about if you consider that path.
Thats a cool idea.
Currently I am already using a 40" slider that works amazingly well.
Maybe I should just focus instead on getting a good tripod so I can do some vertical pans other misc shots indoors.
Rokinon 14mm
I'll just send it back. No sweat.
Bob Dobalina
Member
Can anyone suggest a better monitor than this for $200 or less? Seems like the LG panels in these respond well to calibration, and I'd prefer to stick with B&H cause I have a gift card. 1080p at 23 inches isn't great but I am on an extremely limited budget and I'd like to get into some photo editing stuff ASAP.
John Blade
Member
Yea, get a good tripod that can handle the sliders. Always a good tools for certain shot. For your lens, then you should be okay if you use a gimbals or stabilizers as it's a wide shot which is what you need to use when doing this work.
Great, thanks for the help!
So far I've tried 2 tripods and neither one could support the slider on their own. When the camera would go to either side, it would visibly dip under the weight.
Should I get 2 smaller tripods and just have them attach to either end of the slider track?
But then again, if I go that route then i'd need another tripod with a good pan head on it. It would be awesome if I could find one beefy enough to handle everything well.
Not anymore, sold everything I had. Except the rechargeable batteries (AA I think), but that doesn't help much.
John Blade
Member
For the size you have, get 2 tripod and use them on each side of the slider. As of how strong, remember it need to handle the weight of the slider plus your camera and lens and maybe additional accessories on it. You can get though third party tripod you see from China as they should able to get the job done and also cheap in price. They're not manfrotto quality but it should able to hold the weight for the most part.
Rockin, thanks dude.
Anybody have any experience with this guy?
http://www.gudsen.com/store-lite.html
jongkookie
Member
That makes sense actually.
I feel like it's a lot faster for me to just look through the camera than looking in front.
Yeah, Adobe's Warp Stabilizer can do the job but I've found that it's only useful on minor shakes. Anything major, it basically becomes a nightmare to deal with as it introduces artifacts like camera jitter, more pronounced rolling shutter, and it just downright looks more nauseous.
The software I'm using is proDAD's Mercalli V3. It's supposedly one of the better stabilizer software out there and I guess they can claim that as a fact lol. The issue is that the software also crops the image when stabilizing it so you need a wide-angle lens to account for the crop. So in that example, I ended up using my 28mm(42mm on my camera) prime to account for that.
And yes, the weights on the Roxant can only handle 2.1 lbs. It's one of the reasons why I didn't get it as my D3200 + 50mm is essentially at 2.5 lbs. So what I ended up doing last week was buy another set of counterweights since the counterweights that came on my rig can be easily removed or added. I haven't used it yet for a shoot, but from playing around with it, it seems like it's more stabilized than before.
Yeah, that's exactly what I felt when I started using my 35mm SLR 2 weeks ago. MF tbh is more of a crapshoot as you really need the time to focus and all that. I'm not gonna lie, on shoots where I don't really have the luxury of time, I just keep it in LiveView and shoot from there. It's easier and the results are exactly the same.
Astral/H3X
Member
Oh yeah, definitely easier when I'm just going to pull the camera up and shoot, it's just a time saving measure when I can do it ahead of time. I've had lots of times where I'll pull it up and it's already in focus ready for the shot because I prefocused it. Not gonna lie though, those times are mainly nice because it makes me feel like some kind of badass.
John Blade
Member
Rockin, thanks dude.
Anybody have any experience with this guy?
http://www.gudsen.com/store-lite.html
Here is an indept video of this gimbals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4rDH_JepYM
Look like other gimbals I see in the market. Also, I think the next questions you need to ask is do you need a gimbals as in do you need those shots a lot for your work? A gimbals is great but if you don't use it a lot, then it isn't worth the investment to buy one. Not saying I hate gimbals or stabilizers but I see people got hype from them and then when they got it and only use it for few time, you start to realize it might not be a good investments.
Cool, thanks for that link. And yeah, I know what you mean.
The one thing I'm realizing I'd like to have when I am doing an interior shoot is the ability to walk into a room. Currently I have nice panning shots on the slider but am unable to move "forward" without seeing the track.
John Blade
Member
Don't know if you have DIY skill but if you want a 360 degree shot of the room, why not try to build this interesting gadget (https://www.0-360.com/360-degree-camera). Yes, it's not perfect but it's much cheaper than a gimbal for certain shot. Just saying.
Note: You can buy this from the link if you don't want to make one. Also, so many ways to do panoramic shot for video. I think I need to stop myself to go over doing it.
openrob
Member
Hi everyone,
I have just bought my first DSLR, nothing amazing, a Nikon D3100. To be honest, been wanting one for a while.
It was really cheap, and it has a really low shutter count which was a nice suprise for the price lol. Anyway, I bought the body only, and am trying to decide on what lens to buy.
From my perspective, and the advice I have gotten, it is either a 18-55mm kit lens, or the 50mm. However I have also seen the 35mm which looks like it could fit well.
If anyone has any advice on what I should get as a complete beginner, and someone who wont buy another lens for a while. I would love to do some video as well - not sure how that affects decisions.
Anyway, Thanks!
I have just bought my first DSLR, nothing amazing, a Nikon D3100. To be honest, been wanting one for a while.
It was really cheap, and it has a really low shutter count which was a nice suprise for the price lol. Anyway, I bought the body only, and am trying to decide on what lens to buy.
From my perspective, and the advice I have gotten, it is either a 18-55mm kit lens, or the 50mm. However I have also seen the 35mm which looks like it could fit well.
If anyone has any advice on what I should get as a complete beginner, and someone who wont buy another lens for a while. I would love to do some video as well - not sure how that affects decisions.
Anyway, Thanks!
John Blade
Member
I am not into Nikon but it's what I will inform everyone who is starting. You want a lens to give you all the choice you will need to start from the beginning as you might not know which style of photography you're interested in. Find a Nikon lens that is around 18mm to 200mm. This is a good starting fo focal lens to start as it give you a wide angle to zoom. A very useful for starter who want an all in one lens. NOTE: it won't be the best of all but should give you enough to start I will say.
CrudeDiatribe
Member
Get a cheap used 18-55 and figure out if you can live at 35mm or 50mm (set the zoom and don't touch it) the two "cheap" primes will outperform the kit lens by miles, but you should have some idea if you like what they give you. If you end up loving the zoom, save up for a better one and sell the first for what you bought it for.
That's not a cheap lens (though Tamron makes one that is 1/5 the price - but it's f/6.3 at the long end).
Dat Sigma 50-100mm f1.8 Art tho.
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Nikon releases some compact cameras as well.
www.dpreview.com/news/4699776418/ni...ee-dl-enthusiast-compacts-with-1-type-sensors
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Nikon releases some compact cameras as well.
www.dpreview.com/news/4699776418/ni...ee-dl-enthusiast-compacts-with-1-type-sensors
TerryLee81
Member
Yeah I sad DAMN
And the Nikon DL 18-50 looks interesting, finally something wider than 24mm equiv. Bit expensive though.
andythinkpad
Member
Sigma does not give a fuck and announced to Homer Simpson inspired cameras.