Support NeoGAF

[Oare]

I have a Genesis Model 1 adapter, but it's from the US. Is there something I could grab at radioshack or the like that would be relatively cheap?

Famicom/Super Famicom AC adapter specs are 10V, center minus and 850mA.
Your Genesis adapter might do the job. Just look at the specs.
10V and center minus are requirements ; 850mA is a minimum so if it's above that you're good to go (if the plug fits, of course).

Edit: if your console is an AV Famicom.
Twin Famicom requires 7.6V, center plus, 1.25A(=1250mA)

 

[georgetheplushie]

For those of you that are using AV Famicoms/Twins what are you using for a power supply? I've read that you an use a step down converter or a universal power supply from radio shack or the like.

For my AV Famicom, I alternate between the official power supply and a generic model that has one lead for NES/Genesis 1 and a second lead for SNES.

 

[D.Lo]

Famicom/Super Famicom AC adapter specs are 10V, center minus and 850mA.
Your Genesis adapter might do the job. Just look at the specs.
10V and center minus are requirements ; 850mA is a minimum so if it's above that you're good to go (if the plug fits, of course).

Edit: if your console is an AV Famicom.
Twin Famicom requires 7.6V, center plus, 1.25A(=1250mA)

I've used a Mega Drive 1 9V 1A AC adapter on all my Super Famicoms, Famicoms and AV Famicom for 20 years without incident.

The Famicom can safely accept between 9V and 11V, at 700mA+

http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0

 

[leroidys]

Hey NESGAF, can any if you tell me if I should jump on any of these games? They showed up on my local craigslist. All are complete in box in pretty great condition.

The games are:
Dr. Mario - $15.00
Hogan's Alley - $30.00
Tetris - $20.00
Top Gun - $15.00

 

[Xisiqomelir]

My first console. Subbed!

Little-seen recs that some people might enjoy:

Shatterhand:

Fun platforming beat-em-up

Guerrilla War:

Probably my favourite run-and-gun on the system.

Crystalys:

Awesome ARPG by SNK

 

[IrishNinja]

man, earthbound/mother zero or whatever is no joke. i think mine has the easy patch but the encounter rate can still be brutal, and there's no way around the grind.

it's cool hearing classic EB tunes in 8-bit sound too though!

 

[Timu]

This was the console that got me not only into console gaming but gaming in general, had so many good games on it as well, and Super Mario Bros. was the 1st game I've ever experienced in my life.

 

[Lettuce]

I've used a Mega Drive 1 9V 1A AC adapter on all my Super Famicoms, Famicoms and AV Famicom for 20 years without incident.

The Famicom can safely accept between 9V and 11V, at 700mA+

http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0

So it's safe to use a UK PAL official SNES psu (says it's, SNES PSU AC 230/240V 9v 1.3A) on a Super Famicom and a NTSC front loader NES or would even a UK Megadrive 1 psu??

 

[-KRS-]

So it's safe to use a UK PAL official SNES psu (says it's, SNES PSU AC 230/240V 9v 1.3A) on a Super Famicom and a NTSC front loader NES or would even a UK Megadrive 1 psu??

I know that my PAL NES PSU (it says NES-002 on it so it's not a SNES one) works on my NTSC front loading NES and also on my PAL SNESes. But when I accidentally hooked it up to my Super Famicom it did seem to work with normal games, but it couldn't boot up my SD2SNES cartridge. Probably because the SD2SNES uses more power. But the SD2SNES works fine in my PAL SNES consoles with the same adapter. So there must be a difference between the PAL SNES and SFC power-wise.

Not sure about the SNES specific PSUs though, but I'm guessing it should be similar with them.

I actually don't even have an original SNES PSU. I think we actually got NES PSUs with the SNESes here in Sweden because I distinctly remember that the PSUs looked exactly the same as the NES ones. Since I was a kid though I didn't really look into it further. All I know is that I have two PAL NESes, two PAL SNESes, and somehow four original NES PSUs.

Edit: Just checked one of them and it says it outputs 9.8V and 1.3A AC.

Edit²: And my PAL SNESes does indeed say "Use with AC Adapter No. NES-PAL-002 only" on the bottom, even though it also says the rating is AC 9V 1.3A.

Edit³: Sorry for all these edits. Checked my SFC now and it doesn't specify anything on the bottom regarding the rating (other than it says something about 8W and the HVC-002 adapter). But looking at the back where you put the plug in it says "DC Input", rather than "AC Adapter" which my PAL SNESes say. So I guess it's not a good idea to use an AC adapter with them. My third party adapter for the SFC says it's DC 9V 1.5A.

So in conclusion, a PAL SNES PSU should probably work fine with an NTSC NES. But the Super Famicom seems to want DC 9V 1.5A rather than AC 9V 1.3A.

Edit again: Ah fuck it I'm editing again! I checked both my PAL NES and NTSC NES and they both seem to take AC 9V 850mA. Huh... but the adapter is 1.3A...

 

[Peagles]

I use my PAL NES adapter with my NTSC NES no worries, it also works on my PAL SNES.

I use my PAL Mega Drive 1 adapter with my Super Famicom no worries.

I wouldn't interchange them any more than that though. Don't want to mix AC and DC.

 

[Oare]

Edit again: Ah fuck it I'm editing again! I checked both my PAL NES and NTSC NES and they both seem to take AC 9V 850mA. Huh... but the adapter is 1.3A...

The ampere value is a minimum, so it's perfectly normal that a 1.3A(=1300 mA) rated adapter works with machines requiring values below that.
Of course, there is some degree of tolerance, so an adapter outputting only 800mA could work. But some things may not work so it's good practice to use a least what's specified (there is no upper limit, so using 2A on a 850mA rated is not going to do any harm).

Voltage, you need to be more careful about. In machines like the Famicom, Super Famicom etc. the voltage is dowregulated to 5V inside the console so a variation of +-1V on the adapter is usually not going to be a big deal. You will most likely be able to use 9V or 11V adapters instead of the rated 10V.
But keep in mind that using a 12V adapter on 10V rated machines could very well fry them.
So it's really preferable to stay as close as possible to the rating.

 

[-KRS-]

Ah I see. That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.


-------------

In other news, apparently one of my PAL NESes has crapped out on me.
It doesn't output a picture but the sound is there. Sometimes the picture flashes on the screen for a second but it's very very dark. Recently I had noticed that sometimes while playing on it the picture would go darker for a moment and then go back to normal but now it simply doesn't output anything at all except for those random flashes here and there.

When it started doing that darker picture thing I thought it might be the AC adapter but that doesn't seem to be the case since it's the same with my other adapters, and the adapter I used with it works fine in my other NESes.

I guess it could be something with the power conversion inside the unit or something. Has anyone experienced this before?

 

[Lettuce]

I know that my PAL NES PSU (it says NES-002 on it so it's not a SNES one) works on my NTSC front loading NES and also on my PAL SNESes. But when I accidentally hooked it up to my Super Famicom it did seem to work with normal games, but it couldn't boot up my SD2SNES cartridge. Probably because the SD2SNES uses more power. But the SD2SNES works fine in my PAL SNES consoles with the same adapter. So there must be a difference between the PAL SNES and SFC power-wise.

Not sure about the SNES specific PSUs though, but I'm guessing it should be similar with them.

I actually don't even have an original SNES PSU. I think we actually got NES PSUs with the SNESes here in Sweden because I distinctly remember that the PSUs looked exactly the same as the NES ones. Since I was a kid though I didn't really look into it further. All I know is that I have two PAL NESes, two PAL SNESes, and somehow four original NES PSUs.

Edit: Just checked one of them and it says it outputs 9.8V and 1.3A AC.

Edit²: And my PAL SNESes does indeed say "Use with AC Adapter No. NES-PAL-002 only" on the bottom, even though it also says the rating is AC 9V 1.3A.

Edit³: Sorry for all these edits. Checked my SFC now and it doesn't specify anything on the bottom regarding the rating (other than it says something about 8W and the HVC-002 adapter). But looking at the back where you put the plug in it says "DC Input", rather than "AC Adapter" which my PAL SNESes say. So I guess it's not a good idea to use an AC adapter with them. My third party adapter for the SFC says it's DC 9V 1.5A.

So in conclusion, a PAL SNES PSU should probably work fine with an NTSC NES. But the Super Famicom seems to want DC 9V 1.5A rather than AC 9V 1.3A.

Edit again: Ah fuck it I'm editing again! I checked both my PAL NES and NTSC NES and they both seem to take AC 9V 850mA. Huh... but the adapter is 1.3A...

Yeah i noticed is said 8w on the underside of the Super Famicom as well. This is my PSU.....

Notice how the Model No is NES-002(GBR) but then further down says for use with (Super) NES Control Deck Only, that seems a bit odd, here in the UK both the NES and SNES PSU were identical in appearance, a big power brick with wires coming off each end for 3 pin plug and then the socket that plugs into the console. I also have a SD2SNES cart but dont appear to have any problems with the Super Famicom powering on when using the above PSU

So the official Super Famicom PSU is DC not AC, also whats the official Sega MegaDrive PSU DC or AC?

 

[Lettuce]

In other news, apparently one of my PAL NESes has crapped out on me.
It doesn't output a picture but the sound is there. Sometimes the picture flashes on the screen for a second but it's very very dark. Recently I had noticed that sometimes while playing on it the picture would go darker for a moment and then go back to normal but now it simply doesn't output anything at all except for those random flashes here and there.

When it started doing that darker picture thing I thought it might be the AC adapter but that doesn't seem to be the case since it's the same with my other adapters, and the adapter I used with it works fine in my other NESes.

I guess it could be something with the power conversion inside the unit or something. Has anyone experienced this before?

Ive got this with one of the NTSC NES frontloader's i got off eBay, im using the side phone connections, and whilst i can hear the game im getting no display at all, have taken the NES apart and look inside the shielded RF box and cant see anything suspect have even reflowed all the solder points i could inside the RF box but still no joy. Any ideas what could be the cause of audio but no video??.

Im probably going to fit a NESRGB to it so hopefully this will bypass said issue but i would like to try and fix it

 

[MikeHattsu]

So the official Super Famicom PSU is DC not AC, also whats the official Sega MegaDrive PSU DC or AC?

DC

You can actually use DC PSUs on US/EU NES and EU SNES consoles since the AC gets converted into DC by a rectifier internally anyway.

Never use AC PSUs on anything that requires DC though, you might damage the console if you do.

 

[D.Lo]

DO NOT EVER USE A PAL NES OR SNES AC Adapter on a Famicom.

They output AC.

Any Famicom model will fry immediately as it has little voltage protection.

 

[Lettuce]

DO NOT EVER USE A PAL NES OR SNES AC Adapter on a Famicom.

They output AC.

Any Famicom model will fry immediately as it has little voltage protection.

Well im not sure, as said above the PSU im using is a UK official SNES psu with is AC on my Super Famicom which ive found out now should be DC and its been fine for over a year now!?

EDIT: Hmm it would also seem that the UK MegaDrive 1 PSU is actually AC not DC.......why the heck do they mess about like this across the different region just make it either AC or DC for everything

EDIT²: Ive seen this 9v adapter on eBay, if you look at the pics you'll notice on the sticker is sayd AC/DC Adapter.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-1A...484289?pt=UK_Gadgets&var=&hash=item5d3c4aa881

Does this mean it switches internally??

 

[-KRS-]

Yeah as I mentioned, when I accidentally plugged my PAL AC adapter into my SFC it seemed to work fine with normal cartridges. It was only the SD2SNES that would make it go crazy. So I'm not sure if they immediately fry them, but yeah surely it's not a good idea to use an AC adapter with a SFC. It's just an unnecessary risk.

And I don't think that adapter you've looked at will be good for the SFC. It says it's DC 12V 1A/2A, or DC 9V 1A. 1A is probably too little for the SFC. I think they want at least 1.3A like the SNES. It could work but the adapter would probably run quite warm.

I looked mine up on the website of the guy I bought my SFC from, and apparently it's 1.5A because it means the adapter doesn't have to work as hard (so it stays cooler), and is supposed to be better for using accessories that might draw more power. Like having a multitap with 4 controllers plugged in at the same time you use an SD2SNES cart would probably draw more power than having one controller plugged in and using a standard cart.

So really, just make sure it's 9V DC and 1.3A+ and it should be fine.

Edit: Wait, that was according to the ebay description. When I look at the pictures it seems there are three different adapters? Either way, none of them seems like a good match for the SFC. Especially not the 12V ones.
And looking at my third party adapter I see it's center negative. These adapters are center positive. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

 

[Teknoman]

Not to make light of it, but imo Shock Hazard would be a cool name for a game.

 

[Rygar 8 Bit]

nothing big just clash at demonhead mostly

 

[Lettuce]

Yeah as I mentioned, when I accidentally plugged my PAL AC adapter into my SFC it seemed to work fine with normal cartridges. It was only the SD2SNES that would make it go crazy. So I'm not sure if they immediately fry them, but yeah surely it's not a good idea to use an AC adapter with a SFC. It's just an unnecessary risk.

And I don't think that adapter you've looked at will be good for the SFC. It says it's DC 12V 1A/2A, or DC 9V 1A. 1A is probably too little for the SFC. I think they want at least 1.3A like the SNES. It could work but the adapter would probably run quite warm.

I looked mine up on the website of the guy I bought my SFC from, and apparently it's 1.5A because it means the adapter doesn't have to work as hard (so it stays cooler), and is supposed to be better for using accessories that might draw more power. Like having a multitap with 4 controllers plugged in at the same time you use an SD2SNES cart would probably draw more power than having one controller plugged in and using a standard cart.

So really, just make sure it's 9V DC and 1.3A+ and it should be fine.

Edit: Wait, that was according to the ebay description. When I look at the pictures it seems there are three different adapters? Either way, none of them seems like a good match for the SFC. Especially not the 12V ones.
And looking at my third party adapter I see it's center negative. These adapters are center positive. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

Seems this site has the correct PSU........

http://www.robwebb1.plus.com/snes/snes_hard.htm

 

[-KRS-]

Yeah that one should work. Although it's only 1.2A but I guess that's fine.

Though I'm a bit confused as to why they're selling DC adapters for PAL consoles there, but that doesn't apply in this case anyway.

Edit: The above was referring to the one on consolegoods. Yeah the one on ebay seems even better.
And yes, it's AC that comes out of the outlets so input should be AC and output DC.

Edit²: Wait now you edited again haha.

Edit³: Ah but wait, the one on ebay is center positive! doh

 

[Lettuce]

Yeah that one should work. Although it's only 1.2A but I guess that's fine.

Though I'm a bit confused as to why they're selling DC adapters for PAL consoles there, but that doesn't apply in this case anyway.

So is perfectly fine for the 'Input' to be AC BUT the 'Output' MUST be DC and the center pin should be positive??

As this also seems to fit the bill.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replaceme...K_iPad_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item2339f97ee9

Regarding the DC for UK NES & SNES, i think it was mentioned above that its fine to use DC for a system thats listed as AC but not the other way around....is that correct?

 

[-KRS-]

So is perfectly fine for the 'Input' to be AC BUT the 'Output' MUST be DC and the center pin should be positive??

As this also seems to fit the bill.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replaceme...K_iPad_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item2339f97ee9

Regarding the DC for UK NES & SNES, i think it was mentioned above that its fine to use DC for a system thats listed as AC but not the other way around....is that correct?

No the center pin must be negative. I didn't see that in my first edit.

Edit: Also, the listing is confusing. In the title it says it's DC 9V 1.5A, but looking at the picture it says it's DC 9V 1A. And then in the description it says it outputs 5V DC 2A. So which is it? Haha.

 

[Lettuce]

No the center pin must be negative. I didn't see that in my first edit.

Edit: Also, the listing is confusing. In the title it says it's DC 9V 1.5A, but looking at the picture it says it's DC 9V 1A. And then in the description it says it outputs 5V DC 2A. So which is it? Haha.

Crap!, good spot, plus its center pin positive as well :-(, guess ill have to keep looking

EDIT: There this one,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-AC-DC-...?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2c6afcaee0

but its from China so not sure

 

[-KRS-]

Well they're all made in china anyway so that doesn't necessarily mean it's bad. I was actually looking at that one too but I'm not sure what the dimensions should be and googling hasn't made me any wiser regarding that so far...

I am however finding people who say that a DC 9V 1.2A center negative one is what you want. So I guess the one on consolegoods is a good bet.

Edit: Actually I just found a thread on famicomworld where it said that the dimensions were 5.5mm x 2.1 mm. So the Chinese one would work.

Here's the thread. There's a lot of info in general about AC adapters for famicoms/super famicoms here. http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0

 

[Lettuce]

Well they're all made in china anyway so that doesn't necessarily mean it's bad. I was actually looking at that one too but I'm not sure what the dimensions should be and googling hasn't made me any wiser regarding that so far...

I am however finding people who say that a DC 9V 1.2A center negative one is what you want. So I guess the one on consolegoods is a good bet.

Edit: Actually I just found a thread on famicomworld where it said that the dimensions were 5.5mm x 2.1 mm. So the Chinese one would work.

Here's the thread. There's a lot of info in general about AC adapters for famicoms/super famicoms here. http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0

Nice thanks, ive actually possibly found one on the UK eBay site, ive just emailed them to confirm the tip size. Ive also just ready this on a similar thread on the Neo-Geo forums....

"It seems likely the SNES has a diode to protect the circuit from reverse polarity which would function as a rectifier, and filter caps which would smooth out some of the (massive) ripple. Its not an ideal power source, but its possible it would work.
"

So i guess thats why it worked for me and also might explain my i was getting some interference over the speakers when i had the volume loud on my A/V unit?

 

[-KRS-]

Are you using an RGB SCART cable? They often have interference in the audio channel coming from the picture channels especially when the picture is bright. If you do use one, try a composite or S-video cable and see if the buzzing is still there. But yeah it also seems possible it could be because of using an AC adapter with a DC unit, but I'm not an expert on that so I dunno haha.

 

[Lettuce]

Are you using an RGB SCART cable? They often have interference in the audio channel coming from the picture channels especially when the picture is bright. If you do use one, try a composite or S-video cable and see if the buzzing is still there. But yeah it also seems possible it could be because of using an AC adapter with a DC unit, but I'm not an expert on that so I dunno haha.

Yeah, i got a scart cable it was a RAW Sync one made by retro_console_accessories on eBay, she makes them herself are are of a very high standard so i doubt that it would be interference from the cable.

Also it would appear the official Super Famicom is 10V not 9V....but i guess the 1V would make a difference

 

[-KRS-]

I've found that it's pretty hard finding an RGB SCART cable that does not have any interference at all, especially when you plug it into an amplifier or other high end system. I'd say give it a try with a composite cable and see if it's still present.

And yeah I also saw that regarding the voltage. And 850mA. I'm getting more and more confused the more I read about this haha.

Also I just noticed this is the NES/Famicom thread and not the SNES thread, but oh well haha.

 

[drhankmccoyphd]

So I just ordered a US top loader from an amazon seller for $69 shipped. Pretty stoked about the price. I emailed the seller to make sure it worked and had no discoloration. Hopefully it shows up as advertised. Now to find a modder that actually has one of Tim's nes rgb boards left,

 

[D.Lo]

Well im not sure, as said above the PSU im using is a UK official SNES psu with is AC on my Super Famicom which ive found out now should be DC and its been fine for over a year now!?

EDIT: Hmm it would also seem that the UK MegaDrive 1 PSU is actually AC not DC.......why the heck do they mess about like this across the different region just make it either AC or DC for everything

EDIT²: Ive seen this 9v adapter on eBay, if you look at the pics you'll notice on the sticker is sayd AC/DC Adapter.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-1A...484289?pt=UK_Gadgets&var=&hash=item5d3c4aa881

Does this mean it switches internally??

Yeah as I mentioned, when I accidentally plugged my PAL AC adapter into my SFC it seemed to work fine with normal cartridges. It was only the SD2SNES that would make it go crazy. So I'm not sure if they immediately fry them, but yeah surely it's not a good idea to use an AC adapter with a SFC. It's just an unnecessary risk.

And I don't think that adapter you've looked at will be good for the SFC. It says it's DC 12V 1A/2A, or DC 9V 1A. 1A is probably too little for the SFC. I think they want at least 1.3A like the SNES. It could work but the adapter would probably run quite warm.

I looked mine up on the website of the guy I bought my SFC from, and apparently it's 1.5A because it means the adapter doesn't have to work as hard (so it stays cooler), and is supposed to be better for using accessories that might draw more power. Like having a multitap with 4 controllers plugged in at the same time you use an SD2SNES cart would probably draw more power than having one controller plugged in and using a standard cart.

So really, just make sure it's 9V DC and 1.3A+ and it should be fine.

Edit: Wait, that was according to the ebay description. When I look at the pictures it seems there are three different adapters? Either way, none of them seems like a good match for the SFC. Especially not the 12V ones.
And looking at my third party adapter I see it's center negative. These adapters are center positive. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

FAMICOM not SUPER Famicom. This is an NES thread is it not?

The SNES (all models) have an internal rectifier so can accept 9V AC or DC.

The FAMICOM on the other hand does not and will fry IMMEDIATELY. AC power from a PAL PSU will damage a Famicom or AV Famicom to the point where repair would cost more than replacement.

An official Mega Drive/Genesis 1 power supply will work fine for a Famicom however.

 

[Oare]

And yeah I also saw that regarding the voltage. And 850mA. I'm getting more and more confused the more I read about this haha.

Nothing to sweat about. Like I said, just look at your adapter specs and see if they match.
By order of importance, here are the things you should look for:
1- Type of power ("output" on the adapter)
AC or DC.
As D.Lo said, NEVER use a step down transformer (AC output) on a device that requires DC.
According to the picture posted above, the (S)NES adapter provides AC, so it can't be used on a Famicom, which requires DC.
Edit: as D.Lo illustrates in his message above, some devices are equipped with protection, but it's never safe to bet that they are.
2- Polarity.
Famicom is center minus, so a center plus adapter is a no-go.
Note that it is however possible to buy a cable to reverse the plug polarity, should you need one (plugs to modify the barrel diameter should also be readily available, but since the Famicom uses a standard 2.1mm barrel chances are you won't need one).
3- Voltage (the "V" value)
Stick to the requirements, even if a slight variation (+/-1V) is often acceptable.
4- Current (the "mA" or "A" value)
It is a minimum, so anything matching the value or above is safe.

 

[Teknoman]

So I just ordered a US top loader from an amazon seller for $69 shipped. Pretty stoked about the price. I emailed the seller to make sure it worked and had no discoloration. Hopefully it shows up as advertised. Now to find a modder that actually has one of Tim's nes rgb boards left,

I kinda want one of the dogbone controllers just for the hell of it. Just to see if it really beats out the original.

 

[D.Lo]

I kinda want one of the dogbone controllers just for the hell of it. Just to see if it really beats out the original.

It so does. Been using mine for 20 years now, no going back to old square town.

Though I grabbed one of these new Chinese clone dogbones and they're not so good. I might swap out my AV Fami dogbone cases/buttons with the innards of the Chinese one to get a longer cord though!

 

[Shining]

Finally! I can't even describe how good this game is. The physics engine, music, enemy AI, cuteness overload.. i really don't even

And i had to get the Famicom version of my favourite game as well. Love that little graphics card.

 

[-KRS-]

Finally! I can't even describe how good this game is. The physics engine, music, enemy AI, cuteness overload.. i really don't even

Man I'm so jealous haha. Even though I have a PAL cart of it, these days I really wish I had gotten an FC cart instead. Because for as good as the PAL conversion is, it is still the gimped version with removed sound channels and somewhat choppy scrolling. Oh and those god awful PAL borders of course. At least the PAL version is somewhat more easily beatable (good ending that is) since you start with 7 lives instead of 3.

I actually played through my copy just yesterday, so it's a bit of a coincidence that you received yours now.

Have you gotten the good ending yet? It took me about 2 weeks of pretty intense playing after getting my copy before I could manage to get the good ending. And that's with 7 lives!

Oh and also, your second picture doesn't seem to work.

Edit: And thanks again Oare for the helpful and friendly explanation. I missed your post at first because i was starstruck by that Gimmick! photo.

 

[sixteen-bit]

I kinda want one of the dogbone controllers just for the hell of it. Just to see if it really beats out the original.

They're more comfortable to hold, but the new button orientation sucks.

 

[Shining]

Man I'm so jealous haha. Even though I have a PAL cart of it, these days I really wish I had gotten an FC cart instead. Because for as good as the PAL conversion is, it is still the gimped version with removed sound channels and somewhat choppy scrolling. Oh and those god awful PAL borders of course. At least the PAL version is somewhat more easily beatable (good ending that is) since you start with 7 lives instead of 3.

I actually played through my copy just yesterday, so it's a bit of a coincidence that you received yours now.

Have you gotten the good ending yet? It took me about 2 weeks of pretty intense playing after getting my copy before I could manage to get the good ending. And that's with 7 lives!

Oh and also, your second picture doesn't seem to work.

Edit: And thanks again Oare for the helpful and friendly explanation. I missed your post at first because i was starstruck by that Gimmick! photo.

Yep, how nice a PAL cart may be you can't go wrong with those extra sound channels

7 lives?? Holy molar. That's quite the difference. Yes, i played thorough it the day after i got it (after many, many deaths and retries mind you). But it was such a nice experience i just kept on trying until i got it. I did stock up on lives in level 4 tho, so i had around maybe 6-7 lives when i met the final boss. It was heavily needed, lol.

EDIT* Now the second pic should be visible.

 

[-KRS-]

Yep, how nice a PAL cart may be you can't go wrong with those extra sound channels

7 lives?? Holy molar. That's quite the difference. Yes, i played thorough it the day after i got it (after many, many deaths and retries mind you). But it was such a nice experience i just kept on trying until i got it. I did stock up on lives in level 4 tho, so i had around maybe 6-7 lives when i met the final boss. It was heavily needed, lol.

EDIT* Now the second pic should be visible.

Ah yes, the trick in that level is a godsend. I also thought that level's boss was the toughest one except for the final boss. Probably had to redo it like 30 times before I beat it haha.

And that Salamander FC cart is so damn sexy. I wish more games back then used transparent carts like that.

 

[Shining]

My thoughts exactly. Those homing missiles.. But once you got the pattern studied it was managable.

Yeah, Salamander is the only one i know of being like that. Love that game so much.

 

[-KRS-]

BTW, that Gimmick! box. Is it like those Namco Famicom boxes? Same dimensions and such I mean. It actually looks a little smaller than them based on the size of the cart.

And did other Sunsoft games come in such boxes? That's the only one I know of.

 

[sixteen-bit]

BTW, that Gimmick! box. Is it like those Namco Famicom boxes? Same dimensions and such I mean. It actually looks a little smaller than them based on the size of the cart.

And did other Sunsoft games come in such boxes? That's the only one I know of.

Didn't Hebereke come in a similar clamshell box?

 

[CrazyArcadia]

Cool thread, reminds me that there's still many NES games I've missed out on. Today, after reading through that thread about how different versions of games for 8 and 16bit consoles were, I was highly motivated to play a round of Turtles 2 - The Arcade Game. Still a blast.

Anyway, I come here with a question. I got myself Street Gangs last year (PAL name for the game better known as River City Ransom) but unfortunately, it did not work.. at all. I mean, collector's dream, complete OVP with package in good condition and manual. Really lucky! But the game
So here's what is happening: It starts, but immediately resets. Over and over again. Like, it flickers "on-off-on-off...". Sometimes I see a hint of text. I tried cleaning the contacts with a qtip but to no avail. Any ideas what I could try with that game? I already almost gave up on it and thought about getting a loose modul somewhere on Ebay to put into the nice OVP, but seeing this thread, maybe someone experienced similiar problems? Thanks in advance

 

[-KRS-]

Ah maybe it did. It would make sense since they came out pretty close to each other in Japan. I think I've only ever seen carts of it.

 

[Lambtron]

Didn't Hebereke come in a similar clamshell box?

Hebereke does, both Batmans do for sure.

Also insanely jealous of that Gimmick. I'll have it someday. Someday.

 

[-KRS-]

Cool thread, reminds me that there's still many NES games I've missed out on. Today, after reading through that thread about how different versions of games for 8 and 16bit consoles were, I was highly motivated to play a round of Turtles 2 - The Arcade Game. Still a blast.

Anyway, I come here with a question. I got myself Street Gangs last year (PAL name for the game better known as River City Ransom) but unfortunately, it did not work.. at all. I mean, collector's dream, complete OVP with package in good condition and manual. Really lucky! But the game
So here's what is happening: It starts, but immediately resets. Over and over again. Like, it flickers "on-off-on-off...". Sometimes I see a hint of text. I tried cleaning the contacts with a qtip but to no avail. Any ideas what I could try with that game? I already almost gave up on it and thought about getting a loose modul somewhere on Ebay to put into the nice OVP, but seeing this thread, maybe someone experienced similiar problems? Thanks in advance

Sounds like it's the lockout chip inside the console that doesn't get a connection with the lockout chip in the game. That's what happens then. The chip will reboot the console once every second if it can't find a corresponding chip in the game. You can try disabling the lockout chip in the console by cutting one of its legs. It wont affect the console at all other than it will become easier to get games going. Google something like: "disable NES lockout" and you'll find info about it.

Or you could get a new connector which will make the connection to the game more reliable. It's a common issue with old NES consoles. The connector wears out and it becomes very hard to get games going. It's also possible to clean and re-bend the pins on the current connector. The connector is very easy to take out and doesn't require any soldering to fix.

 

[CrazyArcadia]

Sounds like it's the lockout chip inside the console that doesn't get a connection with the lockout chip in the game. That's what happens then. The chip will reboot the console once every second if it can't find a corresponding chip in the game. You can try disabling the lockout chip in the console by cutting one of its legs. It wont affect the console at all other than it will become easier to get games going. Google something like: "disable NES lockout" and you'll find info about it.

Or you could get a new connector which will make the connection to the game more reliable. It's a common issue with old NES consoles. The connector wears out and it becomes very hard to get games going. It's also possible to clean and re-bend the pins on the current connector. The connector is very easy to take out and doesn't require any soldering to fix.

Thanks for the quick answer, I will look into it (Strange thing is, all my other games still work perfectly fine. So I thought it would be a problem with the Street Gangs cartridge)

 

[televator]

Cool thread, reminds me that there's still many NES games I've missed out on. Today, after reading through that thread about how different versions of games for 8 and 16bit consoles were, I was highly motivated to play a round of Turtles 2 - The Arcade Game. Still a blast.

Anyway, I come here with a question. I got myself Street Gangs last year (PAL name for the game better known as River City Ransom) but unfortunately, it did not work.. at all. I mean, collector's dream, complete OVP with package in good condition and manual. Really lucky! But the game
So here's what is happening: It starts, but immediately resets. Over and over again. Like, it flickers "on-off-on-off...". Sometimes I see a hint of text. I tried cleaning the contacts with a qtip but to no avail. Any ideas what I could try with that game? I already almost gave up on it and thought about getting a loose modul somewhere on Ebay to put into the nice OVP, but seeing this thread, maybe someone experienced similiar problems? Thanks in advance

It could be the lockout chip but I've had some dirty games create the same effect. Id try to give the game a more thorough cleaning before seeing about the chip. You'd need to get the game open. If its got philips screws it'll be simple to open. If not then you'll need to get a reverse torx bit or do the melted pen trick.

 

[Oare]

Sounds like it's the lockout chip inside the console that doesn't get a connection with the lockout chip in the game. That's what happens then. The chip will reboot the console once every second if it can't find a corresponding chip in the game. You can try disabling the lockout chip in the console by cutting one of its legs. It wont affect the console at all other than it will become easier to get games going. Google something like: "disable NES lockout" and you'll find info about it.

Or you could get a new connector which will make the connection to the game more reliable. It's a common issue with old NES consoles. The connector wears out and it becomes very hard to get games going. It's also possible to clean and re-bend the pins on the current connector. The connector is very easy to take out and doesn't require any soldering to fix.

This.
But before everything, are you sure you cleaned up the connector enough?

I'd try giving qtip+ethanol another go, until the qtip comes out completely clean even when rubbing pretty hard.
If it's any help, a quick search gave pins 34 and 35 as the lockout chip pins, so you might want to concentrate your efforts there.

Edit: beaten with a gamebit screwdriver.