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PC Racing Sims Thread

After almost a year away from sims*, my circumstances have shifted enough for me to dabble in a little racing this evening, and perhaps all week! Of course, iRacing being a cruel mistress is handing me Oulton Park, my nemesis, as a welcome back gift! Time to lose a bunch of SR and IR.

*I've certainly launched rF2/AMS in recent months, but only to checkout updates for a handful of laps.
 
After almost a year away from sims*, my circumstances have shifted enough for me to dabble in a little racing this evening, and perhaps all week! Of course, iRacing being a cruel mistress is handing me Oulton Park, my nemesis, as a welcome back gift! Time to lose a bunch of SR and IR.

*I've certainly launched rF2/AMS in recent months, but only to checkout updates for a handful of laps.

Glad to hear you're feeling a little better. Have fun racing!
 

Tyl3n0L85

Neo Member
Hey guys,

Which sim would you recommend me getting if I'm playing with a Controller? I've been following this thread for a while but never bought a game cause I don't have a wheel.

Which one has a good Controller support?
 

ljubomir

Member
Hey guys,

Which sim would you recommend me getting if I'm playing with a Controller? I've been following this thread for a while but never bought a game cause I don't have a wheel.

Which one has a good Controller support?

Dirt Rally is pretty good with a controller if you're into rally games.
 

Effect

Member
Hey guys,

Which sim would you recommend me getting if I'm playing with a Controller? I've been following this thread for a while but never bought a game cause I don't have a wheel.

Which one has a good Controller support?

Project Cars works pretty well with a controller. I remember reading that it didn't early on and you had to mess with the settings but so far I've just plugged mine up and played without any issues. I"m using an Xbox 360 controller.

I remember Assetto Corsa not giving me any issues when I tried it out as well.
 
I read about pCARS2 development a few weeks ago that on their way to perfecting the controller handling they found a bugged deadzone that lead to all kinds of problems; it was reused code from pCARS1 which still has that deadzone issue and won't get patched again (assumingly because they're focused on pCARS2 and because console patches cost money).

However, NeoGAF user Danowat has posted some PCARS1 controller settings that most people seem to like quite a lot. Then again, the same guy thinks that AC's controller handling is better out of the box, but still not as good as the controller focused sim-lite games like Forza and GT.

Another suggestion: Try RaceRoom Racing Experience with a controller, it's F2P, the free content is good enough to check if you like the controller implementation and there are modes that turn the sim-handling down a notch if you want to ease yourself in.
 

TJP

Member
Just posted on the Sector3 forums...

Kz7bcPO.jpg

Enjoy!
 

MaxiLive

Member
Hey guys,

Which sim would you recommend me getting if I'm playing with a Controller? I've been following this thread for a while but never bought a game cause I don't have a wheel.

Which one has a good Controller support?

Maybe wait for Dirt 4 as well as that has both a gamer/sim mode with decent controller support.
 

TJP

Member
I read about pCARS2 development a few weeks ago that on their way to perfecting the controller handling they found a bugged deadzone that lead to all kinds of problems; it was reused code from pCARS1 which still has that deadzone issue and won't get patched again (assumingly because they're focused on pCARS2 and because console patches cost money).
Sounds on par for just about everything broken in pCARS: hey look people, we found the issue
that we often said didn't exist
and it's been fixed for our upcoming release.

SMS aren't alone in doing this but they are the masters of 'we've solved that issue in the next game' which is annoying.
 

DD

Member
SMS is such a f*ckin joke. Four games already (Shift 1, 2, TD Ferrari and Pcars) with the same control issues, and going strong for the fifth!
 

Mascot

Member
SMS is such a f*ckin joke. Four games already (Shift 1, 2, TD Ferrari and Pcars) with the same control issues, and going strong for the fifth!

Huh? Ian Bell's been very vocal about how the pad control is much improved in pCARS 2. I'm guessing you are in WMD2 and are playing the test builds with a pad?
 

TJP

Member
Huh? Ian Bell's been very vocal about how the pad control is much improved in pCARS 2. I'm guessing you are in WMD2 and are playing the test builds with a pad?
It's likely because control issues has appeared in every game and now SMS have finally found the issue..I understand the frustration as I tried pCARS on the Xbox One with the controller and the experience was shite.

I hope pCARS 2 lives up to the promise as we as a community need one release that nails every aspect of the sim racing genre (modding in pCARS 2 would be nice) to pull the other releases into the 21st century.
 

ValfarHL

Member
Can't decide between T500 and T300..


I bought both used for a good price, and I'm gonna use T3pa pro pedals regardless which wheel I keep.

I've no doubt gotten a better feel with the T300, but I've also spent way longer tweaking the settings to perfection in Assetto Corsa.

The reliability issues on the T300 kinda bothers me though. Especially since I have the version with the integrated PSU. I'm running 85/100/100/0/0 in control panel, and 70 FFB in Assetto Corsa (lower on some cars, higher on others) Don't really feel like I'm working the wheel TOO hard.. Im going to check with ffbclip.

Pros T300:

• Better feel, faster and more precise

• Lighter (better when I use my Playseat Challenge)

• Native PS4 support

Cons T300:

• Reliability?

• Original rim too small, and Alcantara expensive.

• Dynamic paddles (I actually prefer the static ones, but it's not a deal breaker)

Pros T500:

• Reliability

• Stronger (though the T300 is strong enough for me)

• Bigger and better original rim

• Static paddles

Cons T500:

• Slower/more sluggish

• Heavier

• Not native PS4 support, but works in most games

I really have no idea. Leaning towards T300, but I I just know it's gonna leave a sour taste in my mouth if I get problems, with no warranty.

Maybe the best (and most expensive solution) is to sell both wheels, and buy a new T300 Alcantara..
 

Mascot

Member
It's likely because control issues has appeared in every game and now SMS have finally found the issue..I understand the frustration as I tried pCARS on the Xbox One with the controller and the experience was shite.

It was awful in pCARS (and in Shift 1&2) but I queried the original post saying that it was still an issue in pCARS 2 because SMS claim they've now fixed it.

I know, I know - they claim a lot of things etc.

I hope pCARS 2 lives up to the promise as we as a community need one release that nails every aspect of the sim racing genre (modding in pCARS 2 would be nice) to pull the other releases into the 21st century.

Modding is already possible (and unofficially supported) in pCARS and will be pCARS 2 on PC. Ian's been quite open about this as it's where SMS cut their teeth.
 
Modding is already possible (and unofficially supported) in pCARS and will be pCARS 2 on PC. Ian's been quite open about this as it's where SMS cut their teeth.
Supporting self-made liveries and for everything else you need to jailbreak the game and jump through god knows how many hoops is not modding the sim racing community cares for.
 

radaxian

Member
Can't decide between T500 and T300..
...
• Original rim too small, and Alcantara expensive.
...

Maybe the best (and most expensive solution) is to sell both wheels, and buy a new T300 Alcantara..

Keep your eye on Amazon for deals, I have the T300 and over Christmas I got both the Alcantara and the F1 wheel for shipped to Australia for less than the price of buying just one of them locally.
 
Can't decide between T500 and T300..

....

Maybe the best (and most expensive solution) is to sell both wheels, and buy a new T300 Alcantara..
Not a bad idea to get a warranty, but buying the T300 Alcantara bundle may not resolve all of your concerns. There's no guarantee that a second T300 will be any more reliable (unless the one you bought is in poor condition). Plus, as you already have the T3PA-PRO pedals, you're either selling those to get the inferior T3PAs, or you're holding on to them and paying unnecessarily for a set of T3PAs that you're not going to use. Surely it would be better to buy the Alcantara rim on its own, fit it to your existing T300 and hope it doesn't die?

It sounds like you want PS4 support, so I guess the TS-PC isn't an option?
 

TJP

Member
Changelog for v1.4.0:

Content:

Added Hockenheimring (1977, 1988, 2001 and 2016, along with extra modern layouts – the Rallycross layout will be added shortly) (AVAILABLE ONLY FOR HOCKENHEIM OR SEASON PASS
OWNERS)
Added F-Ultimate series
Features:

Added Custom Season Tool (available as a launch option on Steam) *
General:

Fixed bug with AA setting not saving in AMS Config
Downscaled series icons in main menu series selection by 20% & changed layout from 3 x 7 to 3 x 8;
Added new Main Menu ordering parameter to SRS files & re-ordered positions for F-Ultimate & Lancer Cup Series
Various minor UI fixes & adjustments
Adjusted orientation rate in all cockpit cameras to better absorb track oscillations vs the horizon
Updated all helmet shaders to be same as the one used for car paint
Fixed bug in road noise replay saving (fixing potential CTD)
Added new driver model & new customized suits & gloves to all vehicles
Added configuration option to all vehicles for visible driver arms in cockpit view **
Fixed bug with radio spotter announcing final lap one lap ahead of time in timed races
Fixed error in fog logic which could cause fog to appear in cockpit
Added function to discard next lap in Time Trial mode if track limits are abused in the preceding lap
Fixed bug that could cause FFB to be lost if instant replay command was hit during a multiplayer event
Globally increased lowest LOD from 500 meters to 600m
Audio:

All audio files resampled to 44.1kHz (decreasing files size / CPU / memory usage)
increased max simultaneous sounds from 32 to 64
polished loops and pops in several audio files
Introduced advanced audio filters for external cameras
Added cockpit muffling for closed cockpit cars
Opponents volume setting is no longer effective for trackside cameras (all cars same volume)
Enhanced replay of surface sounds (road noise, dirt, curbs)
Added new options to Audio menu for master volume, trackside volume, Audio PostFX levels & button to restore default audio settings
Minor adjustments to audio samples on Ultima Race, F-V12, F-Trainer
Reset volume multipliers on all cameras to address volume inconsistencies
AI:

Added function to stop AI from refuelling during pitstops in all series where that is forbidden – only series that allow AI to refuel now are StockV8, SuperV8, F-V12, F-V10, Metalmoro, Boxer Cup & All Cars / Tracks; for custom long distance events with any of the other series where AI would need to refuel, user should run All Cars / Tracks; likewise for proper AI race strategy with non-refuelling series running close to their default full distance, user should use the respective series instead of All Cars / Tracks
Added function for AI to partially lift off the throttle when receiving a blue flag – their cooperation is now a function of “Courtesy” value in driver RCD files, and thus will vary from driver to driver and from series to series; they will generally be equally cooperative in practice / qualify, in races they will be more cooperative in high profile series compared to smaller / historical ones
Added function for AI to coast to the pits after checkered flag (rather than racing on at full speed)
Added function for AI to slightly lift during in and out laps in practice / qualify
Added function for AI to lift back to the pits when car has substantial aerodynamic damage
Added function to prevent AI from lurching to the side on starts & generally improved their composure through the first corner
Adjusted AI awareness to get them to hesitate less when trying to overtake another car in a straight (very minor adjustment for now to avoid side effects)
Added “RaceRefuelling” value to control whether series allow for AI refueling during races (not applicable to all cars/tracks where AI may still pit for fuel)
Revised AI tire wear functions & added custom pit thresholds for every tire compound in every car to minimize issues with AI needlessly stopping for tires
Added AI function to stop them from pitting for tires in last 10 minutes of a race – even if they cross their tire wear threshold they will soldier on for the remaining distance rather than doing a costly late-race pitstop
Customized AI throttle functions at race start to a realistic behavior for each series
Changed AI reaction time to green lights so it´s no longer instantaneous but within a more human range of 0.1s-1.0s
Added new TireManagement & AIStartSkill to driver RCD files – the lower the first value, the more the AI will wear its tires; the lower the 2nd value the more chance AI driver will bog down at the start
Globally upscaled Composure, Aggression, Crash & MinimumRacingSkill in driver talent files
Doubled max AI to AI collision rate from 40 to 80 (needs setting from PLR file)
Adjusted base Safety Car speeds for various series to more compatible levels
Added a randomization function to Opponent filter gizmo when running a multiclass event with a specific class count (where before it would just load the same cars for each class in team order)
Added config overrides to search correct driver talent folders (fixing bug with drivers present in multiple series occasionally loading the wrong file and mis-performing as a result) ***
Upscaled AI aggression ranges (max setting is now double what it was before, with lower settings adjusted to suit)
Various AI physics adjustments to improve their racing ability and line adherence
Generally increased AI reaction to front tire slip
Adjusted AI brake performance for all cars
Adjusted AI fuel strategy so they don´t pit on the very first lap it gets on low fuel range
Updated AI performance ranges for several tracks
Adjusted AI spring/damper multipliers on stiffer cars to further reduce AI jittering over sawtooth curbs
Physics:

Revised tire wear functions for several cars
Revised fuel consumption & estimates for several cars
Globally raised undertray friction to minimize advantages of unrealistically low setups in some cars
Adjusted default setups for low downforce configs in Formula cars
Reduced default suspension packer settings in several cars
Added speed limiter to MCR2000, Ultima GTR Race
Adjusted engine wear/reliability ranges on some cars
Content Updates and Fixes:

Added new 2017 GP layouts to Interlagos, Montreal, Kansai, Spielberg & Hockenheim featuring updated tire compound rules & DRS zones
Roughened up flat curbs at Trauma, Londrina
Spielberg: Fixed fuel use range causing excessive fuel consumption for player & AI
Oulton: Adjusted AI line through chicane so AI don´t clip high curb
Brasilia: Fixed cars going into the pits in rolling starts
StockV8: Corrected max opponents; Corrected & Added missing talent files: fixed LCD lap time info
Montana: Fixed max opponents
F-V12: Adjusted ride height ranges, increased rake in default setup
Mini: Fixed auto-shifting bug; minor adjustment to external sound loops
Boxer Cup: Updated rear brake light; Updated cockpit materials & textures; added configuration option to install / remove rear view camera display
Karts: Updated skin alphas to suit latest car shader
F-Vee: Adjusted AI performance
ARC Camaro: Fixed reflection bug in cockpit gauges
F-Vintage: Adjusted longitudinal CoF for front tires; tweaked AI performance
F-Extreme: Completely revised drivetrain physics including new ERS throttle map; revised default setup; Updated V6 Hybrid engine sounds
F-V10: Adjusted TC sound
F3: Reduced aero loss in draft
SuperV8: Fixed pit timings to realistic values
* The Custom Season Tool should be fairly intuitive to use – run the tool, select a series you wish to create a custom championship for, customize the calendar from all available track layouts, set up the scoring system (including option for separate points for multiple heat results, pole position, laps led), some basic rules and then save when you´re satisfied – your custom championship will then be listed in Championship mode for the series it was based on, and you can further customize it with the usual championship options in-game (opponent cars, opponent strength, race distance, number of heats, quali, tire / wear multipliers etc).

** Since arms are added as objects rather than 3D animation, they´re not articulated nor do they have gear shifting animations; for the same reason steering wheel rotation animation is limited to 90º in each direction when driver arms are installed; in some cars, driver arms configuration is merged with seat position and / or cockpit type; Most cars have visible driver arms from external view irrespective of whether cockpit configuration is used or not – exception being vehicles where this solution was not considered to look acceptable – specifically karts and Formula Truck do not feature driver arms.

*** In case of series with drivers featuring in multiple categories (ex Barrichello who is a driver in V10, StockV8, Kart) in order to get the series-correct team / driver performance, tire wear and start skill, user is advised to select the specific series rather than All Cars / Tracks.

Video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=chSHNOwQYOg
 

Ark

Member
Can anyone recommend a good, sturdy, not-too-expensive stand/rig?

I need somewhere to mount my T300rs because my desk just isn't cutting it any more. I have a wheelstand pro I bought for my ooolllddddd DFGT, but it doesn't fit the T300rs. I've looked at the playseat evo, but I'm a bit weary given that I'm 6ft4.
 

TJP

Member
Can anyone recommend a good, sturdy, not-too-expensive stand/rig?

I need somewhere to mount my T300rs because my desk just isn't cutting it any more. I have a wheelstand pro I bought for my ooolllddddd DFGT, but it doesn't fit the T300rs. I've looked at the playseat evo, but I'm a bit weary given that I'm 6ft4.
I am a fan and owner of a Wheel Stand Pro. It is heavy (for its size), sturdy and well built. The middle pole may cause a little issue if you have big legs or sit at an odd angle.

Well worth the money IMHO.

Perhaps shoot Alan from Team VVV a PM or email on his website as he is 6ft7 and he uses a rig/seat combo.
 

Ark

Member
I am a fan and owner of a Wheel Stand Pro. It is heavy (for its size), sturdy and well built. The middle pole may cause a little issue if you have big legs or sit at an odd angle.

Well worth the money IMHO.

Perhaps shoot Alan from Team VVV a PM or email on his website as he is 6ft7 and he uses a rig/seat combo.

I do have a Wheel Stand Pro already, but I'd need to buy a new one for my t300rs. I was just curious to see if they're still the go-to for compact, quality wheel stands. From the reviews I'm reading on Amazon, it would seem that they are.
 
I do have a Wheel Stand Pro already, but I'd need to buy a new one for my t300rs. I was just curious to see if they're still the go-to for compact, quality wheel stands. From the reviews I'm reading on Amazon, it would seem that they are.
Can you not just drill some new holes for where the T300 needs to be screwed onto the plate? Alternatively, make yourself a plate of wood as a hole "adapter": Screw the T300 on the wood with countersunk screws that keep the underside flat, then screw the wood with the wheel on the wheelstand.

Best alternative in the price segment of a wheelstand pro probably is the GT Omega stand without all the upgrades for seat, shifter, triple monitors etc.
Some people say good things about the Playseat Challenge, but I've heard some bad things too.
 

TheBear

Member
What's everyone's thoughts on the fanatec csl elite loadcell pedals? Need to upgrade the crappy t300 pedals, but as I am soon getting a rift I think USB ports are going to be at a premium. I've considered the t3pa but I'm just not convinced they are high quality as the build of the pedals looks much the same like the t300's.

Also, thoughts on th8a vs fanatec sq 1.5?
Would I need to purchase two USB fanatec connectors if I wanted to run their shifter and pedals with a t300?

Cheers
 
I've not tried Fanatec's latest offerings, but I saw greater improvement in lap times going from crappy plastic pedals to a Club Sport V2, than from a crappy steering wheel to a t500. Pedals pedals pedals.

Regarding the TH8A, I'd say that it was perfectly OK, but still wish the SQ 1.5 was in stock when I was in the market for a stick shift. One thing I will say though is a missed many many shifts with the TH8A, usually going 4th to 5th and I have since stopped using it as a shifter. These days, I'm using it as an extension of my button box, where the 8 gear positions activate 8 different pitstop pre-sets in iRacing.
 

MimiMe

Member
Prepping myself for an amazing iRacing IMSA season starting in Suzuka. The Ferrari is a dream. Just hoping there will be enough Prototypes and GT3s around.

Thought my csw2 broke as it was losing FFB randomly. Turns out I am a fool (knew that already) and updated to the wrong drivers and firmware (csw2.5). With the BigScreen Beta its even not a hassle anymore to use the Rift. What a time for sim racing.


ps: Glad to hear that Fanatec is going to release different direct drive wheels which support their rims.

These days, I'm using it as an extension of my button box, where the 8 gear positions activate 8 different pitstop pre-sets in iRacing.

Can you give me more details on that?

Can anyone recommend a good, sturdy, not-too-expensive stand/rig?

I am using the GT Omega wheel stand. I don't like wheel stands with a bar between the legs
 
Can you give me more details on that?
I can't recall exactly where it is (perhaps 'Chat' in iRacing's options?) but there are various pitstop commands available, to save fiddling with dials at 200mph. So, I have my TH8A setup as follows:

1st gear: #clear (clear all pitstop commands)
2nd gear: #lf rf lr rr$ (change tyres)
3th gear: #fuel 2l$ (splash and dash)
4th gear: #fuel 10l$ (add 10 litres of fuel)
5th gear: #lf rf lr rr fuel 10l$ (change tyres and add 10 litres of fuel)
6th gear: #lf rf lr rr ws fuel 500g$ (change/do/fill everything)
7th: #ws (remove windshield tear off)
Reverse: #fr (fast repair)

Moving the above from my button box to the TH8A freed it up for more 'traditional' button box controls.
 
What's everyone's thoughts on the fanatec csl elite loadcell pedals?
I certainly wouldn't spend the money to turn a $80 pair of pedals into a $230 pair by adding a loadcell and USB output. Just hold out for the clubsports at $299.

One thing I will say though is a missed many many shifts with the TH8A, usually going 4th to 5th and I have since stopped using it as a shifter. These days, I'm using it as an extension of my button box, where the 8 gear positions activate 8 different pitstop pre-sets in iRacing.

The key to fixing your missed shifts (in iRacing at least) is to short calibrate your clutch pedal either by not pressing the pedal down all the way during the calibration (say around 70%), or to do it by hand in the JoyCalib file.

As well as adjusting the engagement point in the TH8A driver software. See:


Those horizontal lines towards the center of the black box can be adjusted. This allows the throw to go into gear before the shaft hits the end of the gate.

Combined, this should clear things up for you.

Also, if you check "use custom controls for this car" in the settings page, that car will have it's own mappings. For example, you could use your shifter as a button box with the 488, but it goes back to being a shifter in the MX5.
 
The key to fixing your missed shifts (in iRacing at least) is to short calibrate your clutch pedal either by not pressing the pedal down all the way during the calibration (say around 70%), or to do it by hand in the JoyCalib file.

As well as adjusting the engagement point in the TH8A driver software. See:



Those horizontal lines towards the center of the black box can be adjusted. This allows the throw to go into gear before the shaft hits the end of the gate.

Combined, this should clear things up for you.
Yeah, that calibration tool really sold me on the shifter and it works great in my opinion.
I do use the clutch pedal short-calibrate trick in some games and it basically always works except in RaceRoom 3 times now. The second time was with the KTM X-Bow release when Billy Strange from ISR had the same issue in his video, constantly misshifting. The last time was a few days ago, but this time it was my fault for not having set the game to H-Pattern shifter manual gearing. The thing was that everything seemed to work as always, the clutch de-coupled the engine, the TH8A shifted the gears, but only if done slowly. It was like there was a minimum shift-time set.

Just wanted to add this while we're on this subject in case anyone else is having mis-shifts in R3E, look if you have set the game to H-Pattern shifter again in the advanced controller settings, it's easy to forget (and frankly, there should be an option to automatically have it switched on, if the real car has an H-pattern shifter too).
 

MimiMe

Member
I can't recall exactly where it is (perhaps 'Chat' in iRacing's options?) but there are various pitstop commands available, to save fiddling with dials at 200mph. So, I have my TH8A setup as follows:

1st gear: #clear (clear all pitstop commands)
2nd gear: #lf rf lr rr$ (change tyres)
3th gear: #fuel 2l$ (splash and dash)
4th gear: #fuel 10l$ (add 10 litres of fuel)
5th gear: #lf rf lr rr fuel 10l$ (change tyres and add 10 litres of fuel)
6th gear: #lf rf lr rr ws fuel 500g$ (change/do/fill everything)
7th: #ws (remove windshield tear off)
Reverse: #fr (fast repair)

Moving the above from my button box to the TH8A freed it up for more 'traditional' button box controls.

thanks mate.
Registered in iRacing for years and never thought about looking into macros while thinking about a solution to properly refuel in VR o_O
 
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