zephervack
Member
Not sure if this belongs here, but wanted to share a picture of my Gameboy Color I took the other day.
Scanline screenshot thread. Because 240p is all the p's I need.
- Thread starter Peltz
- Start date
Well of course but I don't think everyone can get a nice monitor for £1From what I've seen, they are rather expensive online...
I've seen the JVCs for about £20. So tempted.
How do you get input though? The ones I've found have BNC connections.
TheMoon
Member
Not sure if this belongs here, but wanted to share a picture of my Gameboy Color I took the other day.
scanlines present?
scanlines present.
belongs.
looks great!
thanks for sharing!
That is the prettiest photo of a GBC I've ever seen.
The Mageling
Member
You can easily find RCA adapters for BNC, I ordered a half dozen from Monoprice for about $5. SCART is a little bit trickier, but a few places make SCART to BNC breakout cables, or you can jury rig a SCART selector.
Jump on that NOW.
Scart to BNC:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-RGB-...ideo_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2ed80bc6ee
RCA to BNC (for Composite and Component):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IUAUI2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I wish I could get that deal.
WARNING!! Bit of an Image fest below!!!
I took some shots of my AV Famicom tonight for some scanline goodness. I've modded it with a NESRGB board. Its ridiculous how good the games look in RGB! Scanlines galore!
These were shot with a Canon 1000d, f8.0 ISO100 on a tripod.
The Legend Of Zelda
Mike Tyson Punchout
Mighty Final Fight
Crysis Force
Duck Tales 2
Gimmick!
I took some shots of my AV Famicom tonight for some scanline goodness. I've modded it with a NESRGB board. Its ridiculous how good the games look in RGB! Scanlines galore!
These were shot with a Canon 1000d, f8.0 ISO100 on a tripod.
The Legend Of Zelda
Mike Tyson Punchout
Mighty Final Fight
Crysis Force
Duck Tales 2
Gimmick!
Asking again, so I can contribute a bit more!
Be careful with the JVC's. Not all of them have RGB inputs even though the have BNC connectors. Some will only have composite or s-video. Others will have swap-able daughter board cards, most of the time these are SDI.
I added my camera settings in the picture post above. What camera do you own?
WARNING!! Bit of an Image fest below!!!
I took some shots of my AV Famicom tonight for some scanline goodness. I've modded it with a NESRGB board. Its ridiculous how good the games look in RGB! Scanlines galore!
These were shot with a Canon 1000d, f8.0 ISO100 on a tripod.
The Legend Of Zelda
Mike Tyson Punchout
Mighty Final Fight
Crysis Force
Duck Tales 2
Gimmick!
Bancho... you own a legit copy of Gimmick?
Tell me you got it for the same price as one of your CRTs and I will go apeshit.
I really wish i did mate. I'd love a CIB Japanese copy. Its running off an everdrive. The sound doesn't work 100% due to the sound chip, but its a beautiful game so loaded it up to add to the thread
I just have an iPhone 5S so I can't change the aperture but I can change shutter speed and ISO. I know very little about cameras and camera settings but I believe it is the shutter speed that determines how the bars behave. I can't go to 1/6 though
MightyHedgehog
Member
Shadow Dancer, Ghouls 'n Ghosts, Blaster Master 2
Genesis model 1 SCART-RGB-to-component converted on a 27" FD Trinitron
NTSC displays refresh at 29.97 fields per second. That 0.03 second is what caused the bars.
What I suggest:
1. Make sure the subject is a static screen.
2. Use 1/60 shutter speed or multiples thereof. For a CRT you can probably use 1/120 sec without running into light issues.
3. Use full manual mode because cameras suck at photographing luminescent things.
4. Use a continuous shot mode to take shots as fast as the camera is capable.
Within a few attempts you should have a shot where the blank area is in the overscan area and not noticeable.
What about cheap-ass iPhone photographers such as myself? Anything we can do to improve? Are there any good apps designed for such a thing or settings we can tweak?
Thanks heaps for the advice
1. I have that covered, always pause.
2. I can use 1/60 so I'll try that again. It was covered in black bars really bad last time I tried though. I had better luck on 1/30 but sometimes it was worse.
3. I'm not sure what full manual mode is?
4. Can I just spam the button? Continuous shot mode is in the regular iPhone camera app but in the Manual app I got (that allows me to change the shutter speed) it doesn't have a continuous shot function.
Cheers, I'm not gonna give up!
A few SNES shots tonight. Am i the only one who likes taking photo's of Scanlines? LoL!
Super Mario World
Chrono Trigger
Raiden Trad
Link To The Past
Super Metroid
UN Squadron
That Chrono trigger shot is excellent. That has the perfect mix of blending and sharpness.
Emperor Bohe
Member
This thread has me jealous. I can't find one that can be delivered within downtown Toronto (I don't know how to drive).
sir_kevith
Member
You talkin about a CRT? Never hurts just to email someone on Craigslist (or whatever the canadian variant is) that has one for sale. I got mine delivered because the guy had it listed for a while. I just emailed and said if there's no buyer I'll take it but I can't get out there to pick it up. If you're willing to drop it off when it's convenient call me up and I'll buy it.
I trusted him that it worked though because he was a professional video guy selling a lot of other equipment. He even knew retro gamers were into CRTs.
sir_kevith
Member
Been loving the sprite work in Suiko 2.
The whole game is actually pretty damn nice looking. I haven't played it since high school years and all the little lighting effects really do a lot to give the game depth. In hindsight I think it looks so much better than the typical Square RPG of the time.
You don't want to get a CRT shipped to you, it may get damaged.
Better ask a car-owning friend or relative to help you out. That's what I did.
theSlacker
Member
Chrono Trigger
God damn, that looks really good, like even more so then the other screen shots.
cj_iwakura
Member
Durante said:
What version of FFVI is this?
The Mageling
Member
How many lines does your JVC have? Damn it looks amazing.
Its a 750 TVL set. So inbetween the trinitron 600 TVL and HRTrinitron 800 TVL. Its the geometry thats more impressive on this monitor. It's ridiculously straight for a CRT
The Mageling
Member
Dang, I'm so jelly. I had a guy at a local video production studio tell me he had some, but the fucker wouldn't give me a price so I lowballed him and he got offended and didn't talk to me again.
Looking forward to some more photos!
Got a new CRT yesterday, the Sony PVM-14M2U.
Although the geometry of the PVM blows my Panasonic set away (the PVM has no overscan and perfect geometry)... the Panasonic set would have the better image if geometry were ever fixed. It has far deeper and richer color. And the scanlines are far more deep, dark, and "perfect". It also has 750 lines. It's truly an amazing piece of technology considering it came out in 1991 and even supports component input. It must have been truly high-end stuff to beat out a PVM manufactured 11 years later in 2002.
So, now that I have a PVM and know just how good the Panasonic is in comparison to it, I feel safe recommending the Panasonic to everyone. Keep an eye out for the Panasonic BT-H1350Y, and other related models.
And if anyone wants, I can hook up both sets to the same output and do direct comparisons. But if you see a Panasonic Studio RGB CRT out in the wild, I think it's more than worth getting. They're downright magical. Prior to this post, I've taken all my my CRT photos on the Panasonic thus far and will continue labeling my photos accordingly.
Although the geometry of the PVM blows my Panasonic set away (the PVM has no overscan and perfect geometry)... the Panasonic set would have the better image if geometry were ever fixed. It has far deeper and richer color. And the scanlines are far more deep, dark, and "perfect". It also has 750 lines. It's truly an amazing piece of technology considering it came out in 1991 and even supports component input. It must have been truly high-end stuff to beat out a PVM manufactured 11 years later in 2002.
So, now that I have a PVM and know just how good the Panasonic is in comparison to it, I feel safe recommending the Panasonic to everyone. Keep an eye out for the Panasonic BT-H1350Y, and other related models.
And if anyone wants, I can hook up both sets to the same output and do direct comparisons. But if you see a Panasonic Studio RGB CRT out in the wild, I think it's more than worth getting. They're downright magical. Prior to this post, I've taken all my my CRT photos on the Panasonic thus far and will continue labeling my photos accordingly.
Hahahaha that's an unfortunate situation. I'd continue to pursue the seller though and see if he will sell you a set. I took a few more pictures... well a shit load to be honest but here are a few more from the SNES as it was a popular console but its interesting to see how awesome the graphics were!
Super Castlevania IV
Castlevania Dracula X
Super Star Wars
Mega Man X
Pocky & Rocky 2
Secret Of Evermore
Earthbound
And i've cropped a pic down to show you the true scanlines.
Congrats on the new monitor Peltz. I have the European version of the same monitor, 14m2e. Its a great monitor and i like the fact its 14" but with 600 lines, gives it a super sharp picture.
I have a slight feeling your Panasonic is very similar to my JVC being 750 lines. I've seen pictures of Panasonic units with the exact same layout of BNC connectors on the back. I'm kinda surprised you have bad geo on you pana. My JVC absolutly shits on anything I've had geo wise. It's fucking ridiculous how straight the geo is on my JVC. This is just with setting up centering the picture through the service menu. No messing with geo settings.
have you tried the service menu on your Panasonic?
Nope. Honestly, I doubt there even is a service menu. In fact... there is no regular menu to the Panasonic set I have. Everything is adjusted mechanically from what I can see.
That's the magic of a set made in 1991. You can also almost feel the radiation when you turn it on and off too. It's truly beautiful.
There are some deep holes which possibly house screws in the back where I could probably adjust the geometry but I have no idea if they are in fact adjustable with a screwdriver...In other words, I think this is the "service menu" of which you speak:
They go so deep that I can't really make out how to manipulate them and discern whether they are in fact screws. I'll grab a flashlight and try to take a better photo of them.
Given how rudimentary it is, it's amazing how (other than the geometry and overscan) it's made 240p artwork look better than anything else I've ever seen in person.
That's the magic of a set made in 1991. You can also almost feel the radiation when you turn it on and off too. It's truly beautiful.
There are some deep holes which possibly house screws in the back where I could probably adjust the geometry but I have no idea if they are in fact adjustable with a screwdriver...In other words, I think this is the "service menu" of which you speak:
They go so deep that I can't really make out how to manipulate them and discern whether they are in fact screws. I'll grab a flashlight and try to take a better photo of them.
Given how rudimentary it is, it's amazing how (other than the geometry and overscan) it's made 240p artwork look better than anything else I've ever seen in person.
Nope. Honestly, I doubt there even is a service menu. In fact... there is no regular menu to the Panasonic set I have. Everything is adjusted mechanically from what I can see.
That's the magic of a set made in 1991. You can also almost feel the radiation when you turn it on and off too. It's truly beautiful.
There are some deep holes which possibly house screws in the back where I could probably adjust the geometry but I have no idea if they are in fact adjustable with a screwdriver...In other words, I think this is the "service menu" of which you speak:
They go so deep that I can't really make out how to manipulate them and discern whether they are in fact screws. I'll grab a flashlight and try to take a better photo of them.
Given how rudimentary it is, it's amazing how (other than the geometry and overscan) it's made 240p artwork look better than anything else I've ever seen in person.
Ahhh yeah that looks like it uses screw pots for adjustment. You will need a mirror if you attempt to adjust them on your own hahaha. i think my JVC is a circa 2000 model which explains the service menu.
Nicktendo86
Member
God I miss crt TVs
cj_iwakura
Member
Anyone? I think it's GBA, but I can't be sure.
Sony PVM-14M2U (year 2002, 600 lines) vs. Panasonic BT-H1350Y (year 1991, 750 lines):
Click to enlarge.
SNES was directly connected to the PVM and then I used the PVM's RGB output to directly connect it to the Panny BT. So, if anything, the PVM had the more "pure" connection, and only the BT could have suffered any signal degradation or loss in quality, and these are still the results. If the Panasonic had better geometry, it's easily the better monitor. Heck, even though the PVM has *PERFECT* geometry and absolutely no overscan or underscan (it appears 1:1, and perfectly calibrated), the Panasonic set is still a better gaming experience.. especially when using the underscan option which makes for a slightly smaller but incredibly gorgeous picture.
The only place where the PVM really has the Panny BT beaten is in white levels. The PVM does pure white far better than the BT which makes all whites look slightly eggshell colored. But that could be due to age. These things dim over time, and the BT is over 20 years old at this point. But as you can see from my pictures which do reflect what I'm referencing, the BT's whites are still white enough not to matter and the difference is super subtle.
Black levels are also better on the BT. However, it's also slightly more susceptible to screen glare, so in a very well lit room you cannot see it. However, under very normal conditions (the room doesn't even need to be dark) you can see the BT has better depth of color and black levels.
The BT also has a far more extreme curvature to the screen which I didn't realize I liked so much until I started making comparisons and PVM looked so flat and lifeless in comparison. The PVM is a bit closer to looking like an LCD than the BT which is super "CRT" looking in person.
So bottom line: if you have the opportunity to get a Panasonic BT set with RGB input, don't pass it up. They're less heavily sought by gamers than the Sony brand stuff, and people are probably willing to give them up for less money too because they weren't the "industry standard" in studio production as far as I know. That said, they're old and less common than the PVMs.
Click to enlarge.
PVM:
Panny BT:
PVM:
Panny BT:
PVM:
Panny BT:
PVM:
Panny BT:
PVM:
Panny BT:
PVM:
Panny BT:
PVM:
Panny BT:
SNES was directly connected to the PVM and then I used the PVM's RGB output to directly connect it to the Panny BT. So, if anything, the PVM had the more "pure" connection, and only the BT could have suffered any signal degradation or loss in quality, and these are still the results. If the Panasonic had better geometry, it's easily the better monitor. Heck, even though the PVM has *PERFECT* geometry and absolutely no overscan or underscan (it appears 1:1, and perfectly calibrated), the Panasonic set is still a better gaming experience.. especially when using the underscan option which makes for a slightly smaller but incredibly gorgeous picture.
The only place where the PVM really has the Panny BT beaten is in white levels. The PVM does pure white far better than the BT which makes all whites look slightly eggshell colored. But that could be due to age. These things dim over time, and the BT is over 20 years old at this point. But as you can see from my pictures which do reflect what I'm referencing, the BT's whites are still white enough not to matter and the difference is super subtle.
Black levels are also better on the BT. However, it's also slightly more susceptible to screen glare, so in a very well lit room you cannot see it. However, under very normal conditions (the room doesn't even need to be dark) you can see the BT has better depth of color and black levels.
The BT also has a far more extreme curvature to the screen which I didn't realize I liked so much until I started making comparisons and PVM looked so flat and lifeless in comparison. The PVM is a bit closer to looking like an LCD than the BT which is super "CRT" looking in person.
So bottom line: if you have the opportunity to get a Panasonic BT set with RGB input, don't pass it up. They're less heavily sought by gamers than the Sony brand stuff, and people are probably willing to give them up for less money too because they weren't the "industry standard" in studio production as far as I know. That said, they're old and less common than the PVMs.
Been following this thread since I love seeing scanlines too and I was rearranging my consoles so I thought I'd take a few pictures as I was testing some of them.
My monitor is a BVM-20F1U and pretty much everything I have running on SCART.
Also, the pics I took look dark, but I'm not sure why since I'm not a camera expert. Anyone know what Settings to put on a Nikon D3200 to get pictures to look the best? I tried some of the settings suggested from this thread, but I'm not sure I set them right.
Symphony of the Night PS1
Close up
Sonic 3 Genesis
Close up
My monitor is a BVM-20F1U and pretty much everything I have running on SCART.
Also, the pics I took look dark, but I'm not sure why since I'm not a camera expert. Anyone know what Settings to put on a Nikon D3200 to get pictures to look the best? I tried some of the settings suggested from this thread, but I'm not sure I set them right.
Symphony of the Night PS1
Close up
Sonic 3 Genesis
Close up
I believe it's the emulated SNES version with a filter applied on top of of it.
@Durante: I'm no expert but can you tell me if the following is possible?
Instead of applying a filter after the image has been displayed, emulate the screen itself before the display is done. That way you will waste a lot less power doing expensive treatment after the fact.
I believe the X-RGB Mini does something like that.
Not sure if I was clear...
D.Lo
Member
Beautiful.Been following this thread since I love seeing scanlines too and I was rearranging my consoles so I thought I'd take a few pictures as I was testing some of them.
My monitor is a BVM-20F1U and pretty much everything I have running on SCART.
Also, the pics I took look dark, but I'm not sure why since I'm not a camera expert. Anyone know what Settings to put on a Nikon D3200 to get pictures to look the best? I tried some of the settings suggested from this thread, but I'm not sure I set them right.
Symphony of the Night PS1
Close up
Sonic 3 Genesis
Close up