Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

Teyah says they are the same but it's true that without a comparable video we don't know for sure.

What is interesting is that sometimes it inputs the same, others not. It makes me wonder with a fighting game at 60fps I guess the input goes on say "frame 1" or "frame 2", but lower ms gives you a higher chance to fire frame 1. It isn't better every time.

he could just do the same test himself. like compare the worse stick(s) and the best one to support the claim that there will be a noticeable difference. supposedly the new Mad Catz sticks are improved in his tests:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10639470/#Comment_10639470

thread is a bit of a mess though. everyone wanting to double-down lol
 
Teyah says they are the same but it's true that without a comparable video we don't know for sure.

What is interesting is that sometimes it inputs the same, others not. It makes me wonder with a fighting game at 60fps I guess the input goes on say "frame 1" or "frame 2", but lower ms gives you a higher chance to fire frame 1. It isn't better every time.

Teyah explains it under Polling Window. The gist is the consoles are polling (accepting inputs) every frame or 16.67ms. So using that Japanese video example, if both players hit a button at the start of a frame, the console knows that both buttons are pressed at the same time as the difference between them was around ~5ms, while if both buttons are pressed at the end of the frame, the faster PCB will still register on that same frame, while the one a few ms behind would be read on the next frame.
 
Slapped together a stick out of old parts and I think its my fave to use now lol.

TE-S case
MCZ SCV TE panel (Astro City layout)
Recycled Sanwa JLF and buttons
Brook PS3/PS4 board
Custom art on the panel

Turned out to be great and the whole build was less than a hundred dollars. The Brook board is also recognized with Xinput on PC so that's nice, and we wired turbo to be the touchpad button.
 
Slapped together a stick out of old parts and I think its my fave to use now lol.

TE-S case
MCZ SCV TE panel (Astro City layout)
Recycled Sanwa JLF and buttons
Brook PS3/PS4 board
Custom art on the panel

Turned out to be great and the whole build was less than a hundred dollars. The Brook board is also recognized with Xinput on PC so that's nice, and we wired turbo to be the touchpad button.

no pic?
 
nice, im working on modding the shit out of my TE2, however I will be making this fighting edge PS4 compatible and probably getting art for it (too bad art's hobby's doesnt have the fighting edge). Stick is so good to use and Im quickly liking the Hayabusa lever.

TE2 now has custom art, plexi from art's hobbies, translucent rims, Noel plunger on X button, and I ordered an LED, bubbletop, and hollow shaft for the joystick (need to figure out how to wire it up.

I nee to get an LED board whenever mad catz finally restocks, and Im going to pain the bezel and side panels probably metallic navy
 
I have a tes+ are there templates out there if I want to create my own art? Also, will I need to buy a plexi or have one made with my art on it?
 
Supposedly the newer versions of the VLX and HRAP using the same methods as before have less input lag than the first models. Take with a grain of salt like usual.
 
I have a tes+ are there templates out there if I want to create my own art? Also, will I need to buy a plexi or have one made with my art on it?

No TES+ templates yet. Madcatz tweeted me saying it will be a few weeks. Best thing to do is wait for Art hobbies to get the template and plexi . He does an awesome job at printing whatever art you send him.
 
So I tried my first fighting game with my Venom stick (still stock parts) via SFA2 on PC with FBA. Jesus christ, cannot pull off a shoryuken to save my life. Hoping that it might be a little easier once I get the LS-40 in there.

Always struggled to pull them off before, even in the arcade... so I think I'm just too much of a scrub :/
 
So I tried my first fighting game with my Venom stick (still stock parts) via SFA2 on PC with FBA. Jesus christ, cannot pull off a shoryuken to save my life. Hoping that it might be a little easier once I get the LS-40 in there.

Always struggled to pull them off before, even in the arcade... so I think I'm just too much of a scrub :/

We talkin' bout practice! Just run some drills for muscle memory. When I switched to stick like 7-years ago it was a good month before I felt like the transition was starting to be worthwhile.

Plus if and when you upgrade parts it's going to be that much easier!
 
thanks cindi for this

Already slapped some sanwa buttons in. Thing makes my TE2 feel so damn cheap in comparison. Next up is putting a PS4 PCB in, but that will have to wait until next weekend

Are you somehow dual-modding it? How do you plan to retain the touchscreen functionality? The stick doesn't have a physical start button or anything.
 
Are there any templates to create a selfmade artwork for the Venom 2 or anything else like that? I'm no good at photoshop etc and I'd like to switch the stock art. What sort of paper should I print it on at the copy shop?
 
Are you somehow dual-modding it? How do you plan to retain the touchscreen functionality? The stick doesn't have a physical start button or anything.
Im putting a brook in it (PS4/PS3 fightboard, not the universal.) The functionality that will be lost is is the button remapping and tournament mode (dont care about either). I actually just finished wiring up the 8 buttons, lever, and PS button. I have to do the touchpad and LEDs still.

The touchpad is on its own board, I have to wire that to a 5V to give it power, then wire the buttons from the touchpad like you would any other button. So its really only one added step there. The real problem is the LEDs. The touchpad has LEDs to see the buttons, you have to wire those to a 5V, but you cant wire it directly, needs a 100ohm resistor in the line, or you will blow out the LEDs. After that is the LED strips, those have red and blue color, I'm trying to see if I can wire it up so the stick is blue when 1p, and red when 2p. need to not blow them out in the process and am unsure if a resistor is needed, or if the LED ports on this board already have resistors. I believe they do but im not sure
 
Perhaps a silly question but...


I've decided to "impulse" buy a stick.

I always wanted to get one during the SF4 days and never got around to it.

Few questions.
How do the HORI RAP4 and the Madcatz SFV TE2+ compare to eachother?

And finally.. is the Madcatz TE2+ a limited run or does that just apply to the Chun-li color way that was also released around the same time?

If im in favor of modding (More so for looks than technical specs as I've never really had a fightstick and my experiences with said fightsticks are mostly arcades.) which is the better buy?

Thanks!
 
Perhaps a silly question but...


I've decided to "impulse" buy a stick.

I always wanted to get one during the SF4 days and never got around to it.

Few questions.
How do the HORI RAP4 and the Madcatz SFV TE2+ compare to eachother?

And finally.. is the Madcatz TE2+ a limited run or does that just apply to the Chun-li color way that was also released around the same time?

If im in favor of modding (More so for looks than technical specs as I've never really had a fightstick and my experiences with said fightsticks are mostly arcades.) which is the better buy?

Thanks!

Madcatz is significantly more user friendly for mods. Pretty sure you have to void the warranty to crack open a Hori for mods. Also the art on the Hori is a sticker iirc, so it requires extra effort to remove it and then ordering plexi to make new art installation easier.

In terms of function they are pretty similar as far as I know. Some people prefer Hori guts and some people prefer the Sawna guts which is what MCZ uses. But a first time stick buyer probably won't care much. Sanwa seems to be the majority favorite and was the standard in SFIV cabinets..again iirc.
 
Madcatz is significantly more user friendly for mods. Pretty sure you have to void the warranty to crack open a Hori for mods. Also the art on the Hori is a sticker iirc, so it requires extra effort to remove it and then ordering plexi to make new art installation easier.

In terms of function they are pretty similar as far as I know. Some people prefer Hori guts and some people prefer the Sawna guts which is what MCZ uses. But a first time stick buyer probably won't care much. Sanwa seems to be the majority favorite and was the standard in SFIV cabinets..again iirc.

Thanks for the quick response!

One more followup question.
Firstly, I love the idea of opening up the fightstick and not worrying about warranty.

Am I missing out on anything if I go the Tournament Edition 2 over the TE2+?

Aside from the touch pad that is.
 
Thanks for the quick response!

One more followup question.
Firstly, I love the idea of opening up the fightstick and not worrying about warranty.

Am I missing out on anything if I go the Tournament Edition 2 over the TE2+?

Aside from the touch pad that is.

Admittedly I went from pad strait to a stick from scratch so I'm not the best person to answer questions about the line. But I believe you aren't missing on anything save the touch pad, like you said. As far as I know, ease of modding, size, layout, weight etc are all more less the same.
 
Thanks for the quick response!

One more followup question.
Firstly, I love the idea of opening up the fightstick and not worrying about warranty.

Am I missing out on anything if I go the Tournament Edition 2 over the TE2+?

Aside from the touch pad that is.

TE2+ has the touchpad and the L3 R3 buttons plus slightly different button placement, but otherwise they're identical.
 
Perhaps a silly question but...


I've decided to "impulse" buy a stick.

I always wanted to get one during the SF4 days and never got around to it.

Few questions.
How do the HORI RAP4 and the Madcatz SFV TE2+ compare to eachother?

And finally.. is the Madcatz TE2+ a limited run or does that just apply to the Chun-li color way that was also released around the same time?

If im in favor of modding (More so for looks than technical specs as I've never really had a fightstick and my experiences with said fightsticks are mostly arcades.) which is the better buy?

Thanks!

Where you seeing TE2+ in-stock??? I'll impulse with you!
 
just finished my PS4 mod for the fighting edge

g3iHEas.jpg

04ZIs7j.jpg

Had to put in two resistors, one for the side LEDs, and one for the touch panel LEDs. My original plan was to wire the LED strips to player 1 and player 2 LED points so I could be blue when player 1 and red when player 2, but I couldnt seem to get it to light. SO I just added a resistor and wired the blue light straight to the 5V for always on blue.

One of the nice things I was able to do was the start/select. I mapped Start to Start, and Select to touchpad press. I didnt lose select though, I was able to use the Config button on the touchpad as select, so on PS4 I have that as share button, and on PS3 its select
 
just finished my PS4 mod for the fighting edge



Had to put in two resistors, one for the side LEDs, and one for the touch panel LEDs. My original plan was to wire the LED strips to player 1 and player 2 LED points so I could be blue when player 1 and red when player 2, but I couldnt seem to get it to light. SO I just added a resistor and wired the blue light straight to the 5V for always on blue.

One of the nice things I was able to do was the start/select. I mapped Start to Start, and Select to touchpad press. I didnt lose select though, I was able to use the Config button on the touchpad as select, so on PS4 I have that as share button, and on PS3 its select
Neato! I think the black Edge looks better than the white ones. I have a white one for the 360 and I've always wanted to swap out the LEDs for purple ones, but since I've already put a light blue bubble-top and white buttons with blue rings, I'd have to swap those too so I just said screw it, lol.

Sweet work, dude. Cool that you got even the start, select, and share buttons working. I wish I had the know-how to make those actual buttons added onto the front, like how (I think) Unkie Valle has his set up.
 
just finished my PS4 mod for the fighting edge



Had to put in two resistors, one for the side LEDs, and one for the touch panel LEDs. My original plan was to wire the LED strips to player 1 and player 2 LED points so I could be blue when player 1 and red when player 2, but I couldnt seem to get it to light. SO I just added a resistor and wired the blue light straight to the 5V for always on blue.

One of the nice things I was able to do was the start/select. I mapped Start to Start, and Select to touchpad press. I didnt lose select though, I was able to use the Config button on the touchpad as select, so on PS4 I have that as share button, and on PS3 its select

I want to do this for my fighting edge but I am not confident enough to do the wiring. I buy a HRAP PS4 to make it easier for myself but I would love to be able to use the fighting edge again and more often.
 
To be honest don't let those tests dictate your purchase decisions.

bububub I already sold my VLX ;_;

it's ok, i'm gonna get a TE2+ come tax return. Cannot wait.

Thinking about getting the ryu splitframe bag too. Had a splitframe bag for my VLX and while I never traveled anywhere with it, that thing was pure quality.
 
So it seems like the squeak on my TE2+ stick isn't going away, and I'm not sure what to do. It squeaks consistently when I go down, but also seems to give some feint squeaks sometimes when going left or right. From what I've been reading, it seems to be an issue with the microswitches, though when I remove and reattach the restrictor, the squeaks go away for a while before coming back. Do I have to just replace the switches or is there a way for me to fix it?
 
If you want Hayabusa buttons + Silent you have to import this.
http://www.hori.jp/products/p4/p4_rap_vhs2/

20.000 yen? That's not such a bad price, but of course I need to account for vat and taxes too. I might want my buttons to be noisy actually. So the RAP4 with Hayabusa buttons might be good enough for me.

What do you guys prefer, silent or noisy buttons?

And is it possible to mod my RAP4 stick? I would like to have those Street Fighter symbols above as my buttons.

RAP V Hayabusa shipped from Japan. Should be here Monday.

Where did you order that one?
 
So it seems like the squeak on my TE2+ stick isn't going away, and I'm not sure what to do. It squeaks consistently when I go down, but also seems to give some feint squeaks sometimes when going left or right. From what I've been reading, it seems to be an issue with the microswitches, though when I remove and reattach the restrictor, the squeaks go away for a while before coming back. Do I have to just replace the switches or is there a way for me to fix it?

No clue, but my TE2+ does the same. Post more info if you find out, I'll do the same! I love this stick but still bittersweet or some aspects of it.
 
Looks solid. So with that PCB do you have the 8min timeout thing? I don't understand what that means or how to get around it.
The brook boards somehow got around the timeout and are 100% compatible. Not sure how they pulled it off. A PS4 firmware update did have them timing out, but it was fixed within 48 hours
I want to do this for my fighting edge but I am not confident enough to do the wiring. I buy a HRAP PS4 to make it easier for myself but I would love to be able to use the fighting edge again and more often.
If you ever feel like giving it a try I can help out. Its really not hard, and the only soldering required is a 100 OHM resistor for the LEDs, everything else just plugs right into the board
 
Quoting myself in case anyone around here can help

(long intro removed from quote)

- What are the main PCB options these days? I'm focused on PC though PS3/4 support would be nice to have, though it seems few seem to be able to do PS4 unlicensed.

- Stores shipping parts from the EU with decent prices

- "Cheaper" sticks one like the "Venom"/MC Alpha: are the buttons and stick usable before an upgrade is necessary or is it pretty much a PCB and a box with upgrades required straight-away. That's what I remember people saying about sticks such as the smaller Madcatz (Fightstick/Brawlstick) one that launched for SF4. For Xinput only games such what it looks to be SF5 for the moment, would xinput wrappers and tools such as DS4toPC work on these sticks without introducing significant lag?

Thanks to whoever takes the time to read :)
 
look at the brook PS4/3 pcb it works with PC also using xinput

Where to buy
http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/15041942/

Do you know if these adapters by-pass the 8 minute lockout thing? Furthermore, can someone explain what it is, and what gets passed the security? So far, the brook board seems to have been mentioned but I am seeing it OOS at both distrib's (ArcadeShock and Paradise). What about adapters orther than the banned Cronus?
 
Raiden V has officially released in Japan, and a North American release is coming.

Any suggestions on a X1 stick? Is there an equivalent of the HRAP EX-SE that the 360 had yet? Looking for a stick with Seimitsu parts or at least able to accomodate Seimitsu parts.

Thanks!
 
Do you know if these adapters by-pass the 8 minute lockout thing? Furthermore, can someone explain what it is, and what gets passed the security? So far, the brook board seems to have been mentioned but I am seeing it OOS at both distrib's (ArcadeShock and Paradise). What about adapters orther than the banned Cronus?
that brook board might be out of print, the universal one ($90) should be in stock, that one has xbone support
and yes they get past the 8 minute timeout, see 5 posts up, how, no one knows
 
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