Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
shaowebb
Member
Just got my dark red sanwa buttons and matching balltop in. Gonna be painting the case for an old SFIV arcade stick to match and using some enamel to seal it up nicely. Thinking about going with a nice solid color for the top. Maybe yellow or black. Keeping it simple this time. Only thing is I'm seroiously considering dropping a ps360 pcb into the thing since a PS4 and KOF 14 is happening for me soon.
Decisions to make.
Decisions to make.
IIRC there is no pre-built stick that works with all of those consoles out of the box. The closest you'll find is the Mayflash F300, which requires a PS4/360/XB1 controller to be connected to the stick itself.
If you're up for it, you can mod an existing stick with a new PCB like the Brook Universal Fighting Board. or you can also build an entirely custom stick.
However, I just found an upcoming stick which I am tentatively going to call the Mayflash V3. If this stick is real and if it's priced as competitively as the Mayflash V2, it could be a game-changer.
I'm heading off to Japan in a few weeks, and thought its a good time for me to look around for a stick for my PC. Postage from Amazon to where I live would be expensive as I live in South East Asia.
Any recommendations for a stick and where to buy from - maybe approx $100? My last stick was the Hori Fighting Stick 3 for the PS3 and it was ok, but it tended to move a lot.
Any recommendations for a stick and where to buy from - maybe approx $100? My last stick was the Hori Fighting Stick 3 for the PS3 and it was ok, but it tended to move a lot.
Rabid Dwarf 76
Member
Mak Japan in Akihabara Or the Yodobashi Camera also in Akihabara. Mak Japan carries some older limited edition sticks and lots of sanwa parts. Yodobashi carries the Mad Cats TE+, TE2, TE2+, Chun edition sticks. They also carry the latest Hori RAP 4, V kai, and silent sticks. Once again I'm talking specifically about the Akihabara branch. Not all Yodoboshi Cameras carry fight sticks.
TastyBread
Member
I got back from Japan a month ago and Yodobashi had plenty of TES+'s and Hori's but the TE2+'s were nowhere to be found. In all the shops I went into, the Hori sticks were the most common. I'm sure I missed some stores though, so look around
Allforce
Member
And to add to this, if you buy artwork and plexi from Arts Hobbies online, both the artwork sheet (it's not laminated so you can swap it out whenever) and plexi both have the holes already cut.
It's really simple, the worst part of modding your stick will be removing that laminate stick and really getting aggressive with Goo-Gone to remove all the residue so you have a nice smooth surface to lay your new art and plexi on.
So I just screw in the holes through the plexi glass and sticker art and that will be enough to secure it?
What type of paper do I use for my new artwork?
Rabid Dwarf 76
Member
I got back from Japan a month ago and Yodobashi had plenty of TES+'s and Hori's but the TE2+'s were nowhere to be found. In all the shops I went into, the Hori sticks were the most common. I'm sure I missed some stores though, so look around
Strange. Last time I went was three weeks ago and they had the SFV TE2+. The TE2+ is also available in the Mad Catz store in one of the Softmap shops in Akihabara as well.
Allforce
Member
I don't know, Art prints it. I think he lists the paper used on his website www.tek-innovations.com
It's not regular stock, it's heavier but still thin.
katsubento
Member
It's a good stick. No issues with mine.
Don't know anything about ordering sticks from arcadeshock.
ShadowSoldier89
Member
I don't know what your PCB looks like, but what I got are these 4 thingsMy buddy drew some artwork for my HRAP 4 Kai. I'm pretty happy with it. I'm thinking of adding an illuminated stick, but I need to do some research as to how to power the LED.
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/p...oducts/530-white-5-volt-3mm-joystick-led.html
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/s...aft.html?search_query=hollow+shaft&results=56
any bubble top (I went with Smoke): http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/516-seimitsu
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/a...ip-ring.html?search_query=slip+ring&results=2
Ask them to drill the balltop out, if they don't you will have to. It wasn't hard when I did it. The last item is a gyro, prevents the wires from tangling regardless of how much your stick spins
For power, you need to hook the LED to a VCC/5V on your PCB, and to a ground
Thanks for the info. I'm not sure this Sanwa shaft would be compatible with the Hayabusa stick on the HRAP4 Kai. Also, I'm guessing I don't need a resistor for the LED, correct?
ShadowSoldier89
Member
resistor is already inline on that one, which is why I recommend it. I'm pretty sure JLF shaft and hayabusa shaft are identical, though probably best to confirm that.
sixteen-bit
Member
that's a cute design and i love the color scheme
please post finished photos if you can
please post finished photos if you can
ShadowSoldier89
Member
anyone know which type of terminal the TE2 uses? I want to tap into the port that is used to the LED board. Figured it be easiest to run a wire out from a matching harness, but idk which it is. Pic for reference
I know this isn't the right thread, but just posting here for visibility. Lemme know if this is verboten to post here.
looking to sell my Hori Real Arcade Stick Pro 4 with Sanwa buttons. Looking for $130 shipped, it's in great condition.
Pics: http://imgur.com/a/UbXG3
looking to sell my Hori Real Arcade Stick Pro 4 with Sanwa buttons. Looking for $130 shipped, it's in great condition.
Pics: http://imgur.com/a/UbXG3
sixteen-bit
Member
Parts came in pretty quick. Thanks for the advice.
nice effect
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Hmm. Only time I experienced this was with the OG Madcatz Fightstick, the cheap one that was $49.99. I always assumed it was a PCB issue.
The past two months, I helped my friend make his neogeo cab playable on ps2 and xbox consoles. At first, he had two ps1 namco fightstick with red octane converters strapped on the cab, which hurt the risk immensely if one play on it for too long. I added two mc cthulhu pcbs, sanwa and new american parts.
I modded his ps2 so he did not have to open his cab to power his ps2 on or off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4FSbY_ZjgI
Here's what it looks like so far:
We plan to mod his xbox's power button the same way as the ps2's. Also, we'll add rj45 neutrik ports for game-pads and personal fightsticks.
I modded his ps2 so he did not have to open his cab to power his ps2 on or off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4FSbY_ZjgI
Here's what it looks like so far:
We plan to mod his xbox's power button the same way as the ps2's. Also, we'll add rj45 neutrik ports for game-pads and personal fightsticks.
sixteen-bit
Member
Those are some great looking cases.
RP from the Tekken OT
There are some arcade sticks on which for I cant perform at all EWFGs, and others which I can do them all day long with my eyes closed.
Ive tired to ask the guys that work at the arcades to tell me which brand they are using but they seem a bit reluctant to answer.
Ive noticed that on more "flimsy" sticks I perform much better than on "stiff" ones.
In my hose I use the Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 , which I find it more on the "middle", any recommendations for a more "flimsy" one?
There are some arcade sticks on which for I cant perform at all EWFGs, and others which I can do them all day long with my eyes closed.
Ive tired to ask the guys that work at the arcades to tell me which brand they are using but they seem a bit reluctant to answer.
Ive noticed that on more "flimsy" sticks I perform much better than on "stiff" ones.
In my hose I use the Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 , which I find it more on the "middle", any recommendations for a more "flimsy" one?
notworksafe
Member
Odd, I usually find the tighter sticks better for EWGF because of the fast return to neutral. The Crown models are especially nice for that.
A "loose" stick is more than likely an issue with the spring on them starting to get loose and needing to be replaced, the arcade operators are reluctant to say much because they are probably being lazy and not fixing their sticks
A "loose" stick is more than likely an issue with the spring on them starting to get loose and needing to be replaced, the arcade operators are reluctant to say much because they are probably being lazy and not fixing their sticks
Odd, I usually find the tighter sticks better for EWGF because of the fast return to neutral. The Crown models are especially nice for that.
A "loose" stick is more than likely an issue with the spring on them starting to get loose and needing to be replaced, the arcade operators are reluctant to say much because they are probably being lazy and not fixing their sticks
I know right? but really, on a stiff stick I cant perform EWGF at all.
Is there a brand that sells "loose" sticks or grade of stiffness?
notworksafe
Member
Of the major brands, I'd say Sanwa would be the "loosest". After that they just get tighter, Hori>Seimitsu>Happ>Crown.
CountBlack
Member
Having an issue with my TE2+ that I got back in February.
It's been giving me multiple inputs without having to click in the direction. Like if I'm holding Up + Forward (9) and I wiggle the stick a bit without going to another direction, it'll give me multiple inputs of 9+6. Also when holding up, without putting the stick back into neutral it can give me multiple inputs of 8 up to 4 times.
It's not that big of an issue playing street fighter, but if I wanted to play an airdasher it'd be pretty much unplayable.
I tried to go back to Amazon to see if I could get a replacement, but they said I have to go to Madcatz. Should I just send the stick in or try to get a local to fix it? And if I try to get the local to fix it does it void the warranty under madcatz?
It's been giving me multiple inputs without having to click in the direction. Like if I'm holding Up + Forward (9) and I wiggle the stick a bit without going to another direction, it'll give me multiple inputs of 9+6. Also when holding up, without putting the stick back into neutral it can give me multiple inputs of 8 up to 4 times.
It's not that big of an issue playing street fighter, but if I wanted to play an airdasher it'd be pretty much unplayable.
I tried to go back to Amazon to see if I could get a replacement, but they said I have to go to Madcatz. Should I just send the stick in or try to get a local to fix it? And if I try to get the local to fix it does it void the warranty under madcatz?
ShadowSoldier89
Member
if the JLF is the issue, you can probably get a local to fix it without voiding the warranty, if its the PCB, not much a local is going to be able to do.
I'm not sure what mad catz would look at for voided warranty, but I'm assuming its the glued on plugs seal on the PCB being broken
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Niccccce. Dem Viewlix though, the white and blue one especially. I'm actually copping the new one coming out here next week off Amazon.
sixteen-bit
Member
Vewlix really that laggy or nah?
I can't tell. I switch between a few sticks really frequently and can't feel a difference.
I use the PS4 VLX on PC mostly, though, and not sure if the tests count for playing on PC.
Hellshingu
Member
Hayabusa buttons are available at arcadeshock if anyone wants to grab some. I want to but I'm getting married next month and don't know how well it would go over with the lady.
https://arcadeshock.com/products/hori-hayabusa-matte-pushbutton-30mm
https://arcadeshock.com/products/hori-hayabusa-matte-pushbutton-30mm
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Just copped 6! Thanks for the heads up and congrats as well!!
Parts came in pretty quick. Thanks for the advice.
Super cool!
So I'm packing, had my sticks out to take that pic and didn't put them back up before going to bed. Get home last night, and one of my cats is MANIC about being fed. I got home late, so she was especially rowdy, and she's walking between my feet. I'm trying to set stuff down, and I almost step on her and have to shift my weight so I don't kill my cat, and I come down with a foot on my OG VLX. 
Hella dended the frame and panel.
Took it apart to try and straighten it out, but only made it worse, I think. Anywhere I can go that might be able to straighten out metal?
Hella dended the frame and panel.
Took it apart to try and straighten it out, but only made it worse, I think. Anywhere I can go that might be able to straighten out metal?