Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

his issue sounds more like an issue with the stick pcb/microswitches which isn't that much cheaper than just buying a new JLF, and he is using a six year old JLF from another conversation we had so he's due for a new one anyway.

also no, the silent doesn't last any appreciable amount longer than the normal JLF
Well then, I guess I'll place my order for the replacement JLF first thing in the morning.
 
Is there a newbie buying guide? I just want a stick for PC to play Street Fighter 5 and maybe Guilty Gear Xrd for a while, I might put in 60 hours over a year. What are the mid-tier sticks I should consider? I've never really played fighting games before.
 
Is there a newbie buying guide? I just want a stick for PC to play Street Fighter 5 and maybe Guilty Gear Xrd for a while, I might put in 60 hours over a year. What are the mid-tier sticks I should consider? I've never really played fighting games before.

If you're only playing on PC, the Qanba Carbon is a great choice and regularly goes on sale for $50. At $50 it really punches above its weight class.
 
Is there a newbie buying guide? I just want a stick for PC to play Street Fighter 5 and maybe Guilty Gear Xrd for a while, I might put in 60 hours over a year. What are the mid-tier sticks I should consider? I've never really played fighting games before.
If you want a solid mid-tier stick, the Hori RAP4 Kai is a good option that won't break the bank (it's around $150, which is a bit below the usual $200 average for sticks). If you want to go lower on the price tag, there's also the Qanba Carbon that sixteen-bit suggested.
 
Almost all PS4 fighters use the skullgirls driver. I think only Injustice and GGXrd don't. Even Last Blade 2, a PSN title does.

But, barring that, you can always buy brook converters. They're great:

https://arcadeshock.com/products/brook-converter-various-configurations

Thank you for the link! I hadn't heard of these before.

DOA5LR doesn't have the skullgirls driver last time I checked, unless its been patched in there and I didn't know about it. That's one I'd love to play with my arcade stick but I have gotten used to just using the DS4.
 
Is there a newbie buying guide? I just want a stick for PC to play Street Fighter 5 and maybe Guilty Gear Xrd for a while, I might put in 60 hours over a year. What are the mid-tier sticks I should consider? I've never really played fighting games before.

If you're only playing on PC, the Qanba Carbon is a great choice and regularly goes on sale for $50. At $50 it really punches above its weight class.

The other option is check your local craiglist section and see if anybody is selling a used fightstick for cheap.
 
Anyone have any impressions of the Razer Panthera?

It's much more solid (build wise) than the Atrox on Xbox 360 and Xbox One. Reason being, the artwork is now fused to the top panel (similar to MCZ TE), thus making it structurally a more solid product as far as fitment goes.

The team also spent some extra time making sure that the cable connector is much better than previous iterations of the product.
 
It's much more solid (build wise) than the Atrox on Xbox 360 and Xbox One. Reason being, the artwork is now fused to the top panel (similar to MCZ TE), thus making it structurally a more solid product as far as fitment goes.

The team also spent some extra time making sure that the cable connector is much better than previous iterations of the product.

Thanks for the impressions. Glad it feels more solid now. I don't really change artwork so glad they decided to fuse it to improve build quality.

I saw some videos saying there is issues with PC compatibility out of the box. Is this true? Or just affecting a small amount of people? I'll most likely use it for ps4 so I guess it doesn't apply to me that much.

Qanba and razer making it so hard to hold out for the new FightingEdge.

Just but all of them :) I'll probably end up with the new qanba and razer by the time the FE comes out. Wife is going to flip.
 
Got my Christmas gift today

20161225_103202.jpg

There's a Brook UFB in there too.

 
The Sanwa stick that came with my Mad Catz TE2+ is starting to spazz out and not recognize down left inputs. I dunno if its just the way madcatz was storing these sticks or what, but now every single part of the stick (buttons, stick, pcb) seems to have crapped out on me at some point. I'm just gonna put my Hayabusa back in and learn to deal with that, since I'm sick of these things constantly failing on me.
 
The Sanwa stick that came with my Mad Catz TE2+ is starting to spazz out and not recognize down left inputs. I dunno if its just the way madcatz was storing these sticks or what, but now every single part of the stick (buttons, stick, pcb) seems to have crapped out on me at some point. I'm just gonna put my Hayabusa back in and learn to deal with that, since I'm sick of these things constantly failing on me.
Try putting in your Hayabusa. It's likely an issue with the microswitches.
 
Then yeah, your JLF is the problem. You can get a replacement for $30 (including shipping) on FocusAttack.

Uh, I've been saying from the begining it was the JLF. I think you misread my original post.

But yeah, I'm just gonna stick to Hori and Seimitsu parts from now on since they seem like they last the longest without issues.
 
Uh, I've been saying from the begining it was the JLF. I think you misread my original post.

But yeah, I'm just gonna stick to Hori and Seimitsu parts from now on since they seem like they last the longest without issues.
Eh, I'm personally not a big fan of the Hayabusa stick, but whatever works for you.
 
The Sanwa stick that came with my Mad Catz TE2+ is starting to spazz out and not recognize down left inputs. I dunno if its just the way madcatz was storing these sticks or what, but now every single part of the stick (buttons, stick, pcb) seems to have crapped out on me at some point. I'm just gonna put my Hayabusa back in and learn to deal with that, since I'm sick of these things constantly failing on me.

Hayabusa is too loose. Stick doesn't go back to neutral fast enough. It sucks for old games.
 
Bought a couple of boxes a few weeks ago to through together some sort of makeshift display for my newest sticks and other things.


Right now I've got to say the Giant Sword is my favorite. I might buy another Brooks PCB to replace the PS360+ in the Shadaloo Vewlix. It is giving me issues on Windows 10.
 
Hayabusa is too loose. Stick doesn't go back to neutral fast enough. It sucks for old games.

What spring is closest to the JLF? I tried a 2lbs spring and it was way too much.

1lb is in the JLF I believe. 2lb is what I use in the hayabusa and it feels just right.

I tried a 2 lb with the hayabusa and it felt too stiff compared to a Sanwa, but the 1.5 lb felt much better to me with it.
 
I still struggle with Jap stick compared to Happs. I tried an octagonal gate, then the toodles circular one. The circle gate felt better, especially with a bat stick but the throw is way too much. I like my Happs but they are a little slow.

Its a pain dealing with gates when you play SFV and Marvel. I also have a Happ still that so new and stiff. Any way to loosen it?
 
I still struggle with Jap stick compared to Happs. I tried an octagonal gate, then the toodles circular one. The circle gate felt better, especially with a bat stick but the throw is way too much. I like my Happs but they are a little slow.

Its a pain dealing with gates when you play SFV and Marvel. I also have a Happ still that so new and stiff. Any way to loosen it?

just use it and evntually it will break in a bit
 
Hori should be one the ones that making that adjustments by revising their stick and making improvements.

If you say so. I prefer the ability to customize. Some people might like a looser stick. Some tighter. There is no right opinion.

The hayabusa stick and buttons are plenty popular since they're constantly sold out everywhere. You don't like it, many do.
 
I love my Hayabusa stick, but it is quite noisy. I want to buy the silent one and mod it into my non-silent HRAP4 Hayabusa.

Am I correct that the silent Hayabusa has some additional thing to solder...? Or do all stick mods require some soldering...?
 
I struggle doing qcfs on the hayabusa. Any tips?

What! Have you not been using sticks long?? Or doing qcf's since forever?? I see you don't like the Hayabusa, fair enough, but struggling to do a Hadoken seems crazy to me. I can legit do it on anything. If a Negcon worked on SF, I'd pull them off. It's in my DNA at this point.

So yeah, practice that shit.
 
The Hayabusa has become my all time fave stick tbh. First time I used one I thought it was a downgrade but I just had to get used to it. Can't stand JLF's anymore, it's all bout dat Hayabusa now (Seimitsu LS 56 are real nice too)
 
The Hayabusa has become my all time fave stick tbh. First time I used one I thought it was a downgrade but I just had to get used to it. Can't stand JLF's anymore, it's all bout dat Hayabusa now (Seimitsu LS 56 are real nice too)


LS-56 has become my all time (current) favorite. So damn good.
 
I got the LS-56, and I like it a lot, but I still have the same problem I have with all seimitsus in getting random jumps during motions. Has to be something I'm doing, I'm sure, just not sure why it's only with Seimitsus, lol.

That actually happens to me still with the LS-40 but not the LS-56. They are sensitive, no question. Guess the LS-40 has shortest engage? Dunno.
 
That actually happens to me still with the LS-40 but not the LS-56. They are sensitive, no question. Guess the LS-40 has shortest engage? Dunno.

It's a seimitsu thing for me, for sure. Not the stick's fault, just me not getting used to them, I mean. It's actually why I used sanwa (until the hayabusa), despite liking how seimitsus feel far better.
 
What! Have you not been using sticks long?? Or doing qcf's since forever?? I see you don't like the Hayabusa, fair enough, but struggling to do a Hadoken seems crazy to me. I can legit do it on anything. If a Negcon worked on SF, I'd pull them off. It's in my DNA at this point.

So yeah, practice that shit.

Of course I can but it's inconsistent. Stick has too much throw.
 
Hey folks, got a Hori RAP V Hayabusa Silent earlier this year just before SFV came out. It's the version that added an Xinput switch. I personally do like the loose stick and the buttons on it in terms of actual tactile feel, but I saw report that it might have pretty severe input lag, which makes sense because it does feel like some of my inputs don't go through as well as my Madcatz TE2 GGXrd Edition.

I did see teyah's test results on his website, but I did also notice that the RAP V seems to have had two generations, and his test result post on SRK seems to be dated from before the launch of the 2nd model that added the Xinput. Was wondering if anyone knew if tests showed any difference in input lag between the first model and the second? Or if they're basically the same and my failed inputs is just lack of practice with the stick and button feel?

It's a shame if it is indeed that bad, and I do love the tactile feel of the stick, and I know I'm in the minority on that... But I've lately just kept to my Madcatz TE2 for safety, even though I'd prefer to try and get better with my RAP if there's ever been any sort of study done on whether or not the newer model fares better from a latency standpoint.

Didn't really do my research before hand, kind of just figured since it was a wired controller, it'd essentially amount to no input latency whatsoever... So that's my bad.

EDIT: this is the exact one I ordered
 
Hey guys, I'm looking for an arcade stick for shmups and fighting games and sort of decided on the venom arcade stick. Never owned a fighting stick before. Is the Venom worth it? Also does ds4windows work in cases where a game has xinput only? And does it add lag?(I need one that has both PS4 and PC support) Also should I spend extra and get a RAP 4? I was planning on adding new buttons to the Venom and a joystick after a year or so. And the venom'll last a few years right? Sorry for all the questions, I'm new to this.
 
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