Try running Display Driver Uninstaller. You had Nvidia drivers on there before and AMD drivers now, run through the uninstaller twice for both. Then reinstall the latest AMD drivers (version 15.6 beta) for your corresponding OS.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Try running Display Driver Uninstaller. You had Nvidia drivers on there before and AMD drivers now, run through the uninstaller twice for both. Then reinstall the latest AMD drivers (version 15.6 beta) for your corresponding OS.
BigJonsson
Member
It may have been avast and/or spybot and/or network services not starting?
Uninstalled avast, took spybot off the startup list and things seem to be ok for now
Gonna install MSE instead
Oh, I also have malwarebytes pro.....will that conflict with MSE?
Never EVER run 2 antivirus suites simultaneously.
Malwarebytes is not antivirus so you are safe to use both on the same machine.
Hi guys,
So lately I've been a victim of Superads. Flashing popups on every page and EVERY link I click opens multiple tabs that require multiple clicks to close.
I'm not the most tech savvy, but I've done the basics. Went to my add-ons, task manager, control panel, local appdata and removed everything I didn't recognize. Just spent 30 minutes doing a purge and still, this shit is still here raping my browser.
pls guys, can anyone give me a solution in a way anyone can understand, lol.
thanks in advance
So lately I've been a victim of Superads. Flashing popups on every page and EVERY link I click opens multiple tabs that require multiple clicks to close.
I'm not the most tech savvy, but I've done the basics. Went to my add-ons, task manager, control panel, local appdata and removed everything I didn't recognize. Just spent 30 minutes doing a purge and still, this shit is still here raping my browser.
pls guys, can anyone give me a solution in a way anyone can understand, lol.
thanks in advance
TheContact
Member
Did u run malwarebytes? Try downlosding SuperAntiSpyware. Also check your hosts file c-windows-system32-drivers-etc/hosts. Open it with notepad. Make sure there's nothing in there that looks suspicious like it telling Google to go somewhere that isn't google
Could be, or possibly something's overheating and being cut off.
Not sure about monitoring temps if a restart is happening but you could try HWMonitor and keep an eye on what it's reporting while pushing your system. You might be able to catch something if it doesn't or before it force restarts.
What're your specs, your PSU wattage and how long have you had the PSU?
If SAS doesn't do the job try running ADWCleaner after...
If you are still suffering after that I would recommend going to http://www.gegeek.com/ and do some reading up on some of the articles linked in the You're Infected, Now What? section and then looking through the Antivirus/Malware software linked at top of the left hand side folder tree.
I've been using this guy's toolkit, GEGeek Tech Toolkit, for ages. It requires a small donation but is updated all the time and can be run from a usbstick. I find it indispensable in my day to day IT troubleshooting.
SmashN'Grab
Member
I don't normally bump stuff, but this is driving me mad and I can't seem to be able to narrow it down. I've searched and searched on the internet. When I get home this evening I'll try safe mode with networking to see if there's a piece of software that's fucking things up - but I've got so little installed on my PC that I just can't see that happening.
Anyway... anyone think it's more likely software or hardware related, based on what I've posted above? Or even better - has this or anything like it ever happened to anyone here? I'd love to hear how it got solved. For example, when I mouse over my networking icon, it says the SSID no of my router and underneath it says "internet access", as if everything's fine. When I right-click and "troubleshoot" the connection, nothing is wrong. What gives?
From what you have described and the troubleshooting you have done so far my guess would be hardware issue. Next thing I would do is buy/borrow another Wifi card or usb Wifi dongle and see if that works without any issues.
SmashN'Grab
Member
Thanks for responding - I had feared it'd be hardware-related. I'm starting to think I made a poor choice of motherboard (the 3.5mm audio jack on the back does not work properly either, straight out of the box - I'm using the GPU's HDMI to carry audio to the monitor, then using the monitor's 3.5mm output to my speakers). I think it's poorly-made or something, will be the last time I buy from MSI.
I don't think I'd purchase a Wifi dongle to test it out, nor am I in a position to borrow one. I'll keep tinkering away for the next few days to see what can be done, otherwise I'll get a cat 5 cable this weekend and put the time in and be creative to make sure it's as discreet as possible (going through two doorways will be an obstacle, especially as I can't drill holes anywhere). At least with wired this patchy shit won't be an issue.
You mean the slot itself?
Depending on the case, those front USB slots are usually just a couple of cables that run off the motherboard to a hole in the plastic/metal of the case. Often when there are two or more USB going to the front they're connected with a metal plate that screws onto the inside of your case front, but it depends on the case itself and those cables & fittings usually come with it.
You could try asking your case manufacturer if they'll send/sell you a replacement, or if not, have you got an unused floppy drive or HDD bay slot on the front of your case? If so, you could get something generic like this:
Also, are these just USB 2 slots or 3? Depending on your motherboard you might need to run a USB 3 extension from the back plate rather than straight off the board.
Malwarebytes is very much an antivirus. It does have real time protection and all that jazz as well. They do have a free standalone scanner but that is only one part of the package. Running malwarebytes along with another antivirus is not a good idea.
Malwarebytes, both the free and pro, is not antivirus and happily runs alongside most common AV suites.
This is taken directly from the MBPremium Info page
"Finds what antivirus doesn't
Three proprietary technologies (signature, heuristics, and behavorial) automatically protect you and your online experience from malware that antivirus products don't detect."
SmashN'Grab
Member
Just as an update on my case - I started Windows in "safe mode with networking" yesterday evening, only to find that it could not connect to the internet in this mode. Now, it could connect to the router (and it can "see" all the neighbouring routers around me, in both safe mode and regular mode) while in safe mode, but with no internet access.
Now, all the drivers are up to date, so I don't know what's going on. When I'm in the normal (non-safe mode) Windows, my WiFi card will pick up the router's signal and connect immediately. It will also pick up my neighbour's routers, and sometimes this list of available connections will slightly change, I guess based on wavering signal strength.
However, the issue remains - I cannot connect to the internet at all. Chrome, Internet Explorer, Steam, Battle.net, Origin, etc. none of them will connect.
When I right-click on the connection and "troubleshoot", I get no issues back. It's telling me that there's no connection problems. It says things like "We've verified that you can connect to some websites, etc. etc. etc."
It has prompted me, through the troubleshooter, to input a website to see if it could connect - e.g. www.microsoft.com - which I did, and it told me that no detection issues had been found.
I really don't know what's going on. Is this hardware or software related? Like, if it's hardware, why is the WiFi signal having no trouble at all picking up signals around me? Why is it seemingly having no trouble at all connecting to my router?
If I check the status of the WiFi connection, I see IPv4 as Connected / IPv6 has No Internet Access / Media is Enabled / the connection speed wavers between ~80-115Mbps... Even the sent/received symbol at the bottom (the one with the two screens showing the connection) has tiny amounts of bytes being sent and received all the time.
Any ideas?
I'm wanting to sell my GPUs soon when I uprade, but want to make sure theyre ok.
Do Asus 560 Ti's run hot? With only chrome open my single card is sat at 45c, and gets hotter still when the 2nd card is in. My room is pretty chilled, it's definitely not room temp. Is the fan auto speed too low?
This is my comp with only one of the cards in, this is what it looked like whilst idling at 45c, albeit I have the cover on.
Is the cpu fan okay on that side? Every picture I've seen has the fan on the other side, but my ram is too damn tall to fit it that way. I'm wondering if that's effecting air flow.
Do Asus 560 Ti's run hot? With only chrome open my single card is sat at 45c, and gets hotter still when the 2nd card is in. My room is pretty chilled, it's definitely not room temp. Is the fan auto speed too low?
This is my comp with only one of the cards in, this is what it looked like whilst idling at 45c, albeit I have the cover on.
Is the cpu fan okay on that side? Every picture I've seen has the fan on the other side, but my ram is too damn tall to fit it that way. I'm wondering if that's effecting air flow.
You need to see if the pc will reliably connect to the internet when not using that particular wifi card. As you say you can't get another card/dongle to try out, can you temporarily move the pc close to the router and try it on a standard wired connection?
Still unable to solve this problem
Attempting to reinstall Windows using a boot disc yields a BSOD IO error so that's a no-go
The CPU fan is ok on that side, but you would usually have it on the other. Most blow air over the heatsink fins and putting it on the other would side mean the warm air from that process is then dragged straight out by that rear exhaust fan on your case. It looks like you've got a case exhaust on the top as well though, so as it is the hot air will be pulled away from the CPU and GPU by that, up and past your RAM.
What's important is testing your GPU(s) under load. Most do run a bit warmer than the CPU even while idle, but will get much warmer under load. This is to be expected.
If your monitoring software (as in your image) doesn't keep track and clearly show you what the max temp reached over time is, download HWMonitor, start it up straight away upon booting up to desktop and make a note of the current max temps for your CPU and graphics. Then run a game that you know pushes things for a while and make another note of the max temps while it's still running.
High 30s to 50°C isn't uncommon for idle GPU temps with air-cooling, and don't be too surprised if it gets to 80-90°C under load. That's fine, if a little warm. Much higher than that though and they may need a dusting of some sort.
EDIT: I don't know the exact expected fan speeds for the 560Ti or your cooler/model of card but the RPM reported in your image looks fine at a glance.
I've downloaded and ran both Malwarebytes and SAS.
They both found multiple "threats" but none of them removed Superads. It's still here after it all...
Idk what to do anymore. This thing has dug deep and planted its roots man, lol.
Ran Echelon
Neo Member
So I had a strange problem with my PC this morning, Windows wouldn't load.
The fans/drives span up as usual, motherboard logo showed as usual, same beep as usual, but then it got stuck on a black screen with a flashing cursor.
Well I had look through the bios and everything seemed normal, until I found (to my surprise) that the disk boot order had changed. It seems my ssd had been sent to the bottom of the list and the boot process was getting stuck trying to boot from a media drive.
This seems so strange, how could it get changed out of the blue like that?
There was a pretty bad thunderstorm last night and although my pc was off and plugged into a surge protector it wasn't turned off at the wall. Could that have had anything to with it?
Specs/drive info below.
The next day: Drive didn't even appear in bios. I unplugged my optical drive and plugged the ssd into that port. Seems to work for now.
The fans/drives span up as usual, motherboard logo showed as usual, same beep as usual, but then it got stuck on a black screen with a flashing cursor.
Well I had look through the bios and everything seemed normal, until I found (to my surprise) that the disk boot order had changed. It seems my ssd had been sent to the bottom of the list and the boot process was getting stuck trying to boot from a media drive.
This seems so strange, how could it get changed out of the blue like that?
There was a pretty bad thunderstorm last night and although my pc was off and plugged into a surge protector it wasn't turned off at the wall. Could that have had anything to with it?
Specs/drive info below.
The next day: Drive didn't even appear in bios. I unplugged my optical drive and plugged the ssd into that port. Seems to work for now.
I posted a few days back wondering why my gpu was running so hot on idle (55c), thanks for the help and suggestions. I just spotted this on Reddit and its (potentially) kind of huge for people running a 144mhz monitor.
Turns out it was to do with my monitors refresh rate. From Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3c38ua/attention_144hz_users/
Since changing down to 120mhz, my GPU's temp's have dropped by a whopping 15 degrees, with my clock speed right down as well. Hate to think how long its been like that.
Turns out it was to do with my monitors refresh rate. From Reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3c38ua/attention_144hz_users/
Since changing down to 120mhz, my GPU's temp's have dropped by a whopping 15 degrees, with my clock speed right down as well. Hate to think how long its been like that.
chronic_archaic
Member
Okay, so I've been running a non legitimate Windows 7 for awhile now due to hard drive partitioning issues causing me to lose the ability to boot off my recovery partition which has the OEM version on it. I want to fix the partitioning so I can get the Windows 10 upgrade. Here's what my table looks like. Anyone know how I can merge these without data loss?
http://i.imgur.com/jFVhPhK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jFVhPhK.jpg
Hours Left
Member
.
TheContact
Member
You can try downloading Sophos. It's a really thorough scan but it takes a very very long time. If that doesn't work I would back up any important data and just format windows
boiled goose
good with gravy
Hmm interesting.
Any good but affordable cards you recommend?
I don't need anything super fancy, honestly anything good enough to smoothly place last gen and some current gen games would be fine.
Bumblebeetuna
Member
So I built a new PC last week. Everything seemed to work great, except the video card. I have been looking into it and posting on a couple tech support sites, no one seems to know what could be the issue. I already started an RMA with Newegg today, but thought I would ask here in case anyone had a similar issue.
The card is a Sapphire R9-280X. Basically, there are artifacts all on the screen in places, and I get constant errors. They are either system lockups that last a few seconds, screen goes black, then comes back saying AMD device driver has stopped working but recovered. Or, the screen goes black for a few seconds, comes back up to whatever I was doing, then goes black again, over and over requiring a reboot. Checking the event viewer log shows "driver amdkmdap stopped working" every time a reboot is required.
I originally built the machine with a clean 8.1 install. I thought maybe it was a Windows 8 issue, so I did a new clean 7 install, and as soon as I updated the drivers, the same issue began. I did a memtest86+ test on the RAM, it was good. The PSU seems to be working fine. The only issue is the graphics card. It's a shot in the dark if anyone has had or heard of similar issues and it'll only be a week or so before I have a new card back but just thought I'd ask.
Oh, here is the build.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($82.94 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($227.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($86.99 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 700W ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $781.21
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-08 01:02 EDT-0400
The memory is not the low profile, I could not find mine. The case is also not that exact Corsair model.
The card is a Sapphire R9-280X. Basically, there are artifacts all on the screen in places, and I get constant errors. They are either system lockups that last a few seconds, screen goes black, then comes back saying AMD device driver has stopped working but recovered. Or, the screen goes black for a few seconds, comes back up to whatever I was doing, then goes black again, over and over requiring a reboot. Checking the event viewer log shows "driver amdkmdap stopped working" every time a reboot is required.
I originally built the machine with a clean 8.1 install. I thought maybe it was a Windows 8 issue, so I did a new clean 7 install, and as soon as I updated the drivers, the same issue began. I did a memtest86+ test on the RAM, it was good. The PSU seems to be working fine. The only issue is the graphics card. It's a shot in the dark if anyone has had or heard of similar issues and it'll only be a week or so before I have a new card back but just thought I'd ask.
Oh, here is the build.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.95 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($82.94 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($227.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 300R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($86.99 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: Thermaltake TR2 700W ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $781.21
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-08 01:02 EDT-0400
The memory is not the low profile, I could not find mine. The case is also not that exact Corsair model.
Does anyone know of a device that I can connect to my wifi network and then use the wired ports to get internet access? I need internet access in a room on the far corner of the house without running a wire.
I can connect devices in the room but once you move past the entrance it drops the connection. I can't use powerline adapters.
I can connect devices in the room but once you move past the entrance it drops the connection. I can't use powerline adapters.
Hey GAF.
My mother recently got discharged from hospital overseas, she accidentally left some medical notes/discharge letters over there and a friend has used an iPhone to take some pictures for us so we can show our GP and keep him up to date. Unfortunately the image quality isn't great and when I print it out it is even worse, just a mass of blacks on grey.
Does anyone have any tips or pointers for this? I'm guessing I may have to clean the image but I am uncertain how.
Some WiFi extenders have ethernet ports.
My mother recently got discharged from hospital overseas, she accidentally left some medical notes/discharge letters over there and a friend has used an iPhone to take some pictures for us so we can show our GP and keep him up to date. Unfortunately the image quality isn't great and when I print it out it is even worse, just a mass of blacks on grey.
Does anyone have any tips or pointers for this? I'm guessing I may have to clean the image but I am uncertain how.
Some WiFi extenders have ethernet ports.
Mistake
Member
I'm running windows 8.1 and my usb HDD keeps unmounting when I write to it. My HDD will also unmount or not be accessible at random points in time. This doesn't happen on my windows 7 netbook. I could leave the drive going and have no problems, even if I put it to sleep and woke it up. I am using a usb 2.0 cable and port. Also, I've changed my usb power settings and it still happens.
NormalFish
Banned
Hey, folks. Hoping someone can lend me a hand with a computer issue.
Specs:
ASRock P67 Pro 3 Motherboard
i5 3570k CPU Running at 4.0 GHz
XFX Radeon 7850 HD GPU
Corsair TX650 watt PSU
Basically boils down to my PC won't send my monitor a video signal. This has happened a few times recently when I leave my computer on over night (watching something on my monitor and I fall asleep), so I initially thought it was a overheating issue. Previously, power cycling my monitor and PC once or twice solved the problem, but not this time.
I have tried using both the DVI slots on my GPU, as well as using HDMI. I've tried power cycling on both the monitor and the PC multiple times. I reseated the GPU and cleaned it a bit, tried cleaning the connections on both my GPU and my cable.
Thing is, I can't figure out where the issue is. The mobo has no error code and everything boots up as it should, the GPU fans spin so it's at least getting some power, and the Monitor seems to detect when I unplug it from the motherboard. It really does seem to be that the computer refuses to send the video signal to the motherboard, and that has me so floored that I'm not sure what to do.
**well, pretty damn sure it's a dying mobo.
**And now it's booting up by itself. Picture on monitor for a second and then it blacked out (as if I had a picture, but the picture was black as opposed to the monitor not displaying anything). Pretty much positive it's a ghost. Buying new mobo.
Specs:
ASRock P67 Pro 3 Motherboard
i5 3570k CPU Running at 4.0 GHz
XFX Radeon 7850 HD GPU
Corsair TX650 watt PSU
Basically boils down to my PC won't send my monitor a video signal. This has happened a few times recently when I leave my computer on over night (watching something on my monitor and I fall asleep), so I initially thought it was a overheating issue. Previously, power cycling my monitor and PC once or twice solved the problem, but not this time.
I have tried using both the DVI slots on my GPU, as well as using HDMI. I've tried power cycling on both the monitor and the PC multiple times. I reseated the GPU and cleaned it a bit, tried cleaning the connections on both my GPU and my cable.
Thing is, I can't figure out where the issue is. The mobo has no error code and everything boots up as it should, the GPU fans spin so it's at least getting some power, and the Monitor seems to detect when I unplug it from the motherboard. It really does seem to be that the computer refuses to send the video signal to the motherboard, and that has me so floored that I'm not sure what to do.
**well, pretty damn sure it's a dying mobo.
**And now it's booting up by itself. Picture on monitor for a second and then it blacked out (as if I had a picture, but the picture was black as opposed to the monitor not displaying anything). Pretty much positive it's a ghost. Buying new mobo.
So I am getting boot errors again. The same classpnp.sys issues as before that eventually went away.
Tried startup repair and it fails with a "startuprepairoffline" error detailed here:
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...e/97d8e229-df6f-e011-8dfc-68b599b31bf5?auth=1
Tried restoring to a few weeks ago, no go. And tried putting in a Win 7 disc and it says it does not match versions, even though that's the disc I used to install Windows years ago.
I think it's time for a reformat?
Tried startup repair and it fails with a "startuprepairoffline" error detailed here:
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...e/97d8e229-df6f-e011-8dfc-68b599b31bf5?auth=1
Tried restoring to a few weeks ago, no go. And tried putting in a Win 7 disc and it says it does not match versions, even though that's the disc I used to install Windows years ago.
I think it's time for a reformat?
Saiyan-Rox
Member
Guys is it normal for a GTX980 to dtop frames from 60 ro 35-40 in borderlands 2 with the physx on high? i thought this card would be okay with it on something like borderlands.
can't seem to get a locked 60 on witcher 3 either on High with hairworks off but I figured a game like that this was normal with 1 card. even on titanfall I can't get a locked 60fps with everything all the way up. need to turn down MSAA to get it to stay at 60.
Sorry if I'm being stupid i'm still learning all the PC gaming stuff. My rig is below.
GTX980
i53570k overclocked to 4.2
12GB RAM
600w PSU
I took some shots of GPU-Z while playing
Borderlands - http://i.imgur.com/xbQlssj.png
Witcher 3 - http://i.imgur.com/3fIbAp6.png
Main page of CPU-Z http://i.imgur.com/fYvIKMt.gif
can't seem to get a locked 60 on witcher 3 either on High with hairworks off but I figured a game like that this was normal with 1 card. even on titanfall I can't get a locked 60fps with everything all the way up. need to turn down MSAA to get it to stay at 60.
Sorry if I'm being stupid i'm still learning all the PC gaming stuff. My rig is below.
GTX980
i53570k overclocked to 4.2
12GB RAM
600w PSU
I took some shots of GPU-Z while playing
Borderlands - http://i.imgur.com/xbQlssj.png
Witcher 3 - http://i.imgur.com/3fIbAp6.png
Main page of CPU-Z http://i.imgur.com/fYvIKMt.gif
Is this a good place to ask about a media centre type question?
I've got a PC, with a number of films on it.
I want to stream those, somehow, to my TV.
Plugged into my TV I've got Chromecast and a Xbox one.
Is there any way of being able to use my phone or xbox to get films from PC and play on the TV.
At the moment I'm just copying films one by one onto my phone when I need them and just using LocalCast app to play them on TV via Chromecast
I've got a PC, with a number of films on it.
I want to stream those, somehow, to my TV.
Plugged into my TV I've got Chromecast and a Xbox one.
Is there any way of being able to use my phone or xbox to get films from PC and play on the TV.
At the moment I'm just copying films one by one onto my phone when I need them and just using LocalCast app to play them on TV via Chromecast
Why is my chromecast such a piece of junk?
Half the time my phones can't find it, it'll get stuck loading something exactly at 50% and need to be unplugged as well.
Main issue is its just gone from my list as an available streaming option 5 times out of 10. Anyone had issues like this?
Half the time my phones can't find it, it'll get stuck loading something exactly at 50% and need to be unplugged as well.
Main issue is its just gone from my list as an available streaming option 5 times out of 10. Anyone had issues like this?
Only when it was loosely plugged into a TV USB port that was not giving it enough power. It would work but very weakly and lost signal non stop. So I switched to the regular power brick and it's been flawless.
Saiyan-Rox
Member
Yep I've had this happen with mine too. ened up more times than enough I had to reboot my router to fix the issues with it :/ it's been fine as of late though.
EricTheCleric
Member
My laptop suddenly stopped working without external power, it just shut down immedately whenever I removed the power cord. Battery was still recognized but charging never increased in % and stayed the same.
I did a health check on my battery following information in this link
http://www.helpwithwindows.com/Windows7/Check-your-laptop-battery-health-in-Windows-7.html
I got the following report
Design Capacity 84000
Last full charge 37995
Last full charge (%) 45
So I ordered a new battery, an OEM battery with the same part number as the one for my laptop (ASUS U36SG).
The problem now is that when I connect my laptop to power the battery light is not lighting up and when I start the laptop, Windows 7 cant detect any battery.
The computer is working now if I remove external power but I cant see any information regarding the battery since it was not detected. I guess once the charge the battery arrived with is finished that wont work as well. I have tried to remove and insert the battery a few times but that seem to do nothing.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I did a health check on my battery following information in this link
http://www.helpwithwindows.com/Windows7/Check-your-laptop-battery-health-in-Windows-7.html
I got the following report
Design Capacity 84000
Last full charge 37995
Last full charge (%) 45
So I ordered a new battery, an OEM battery with the same part number as the one for my laptop (ASUS U36SG).
The problem now is that when I connect my laptop to power the battery light is not lighting up and when I start the laptop, Windows 7 cant detect any battery.
The computer is working now if I remove external power but I cant see any information regarding the battery since it was not detected. I guess once the charge the battery arrived with is finished that wont work as well. I have tried to remove and insert the battery a few times but that seem to do nothing.
Anyone have any suggestions?
CharpyImpact
Member
So, i went to go boot up my pc this morning and found that it stopped booting with a strangely colored windows splash screen. I then reset the system and it is not showing anything on the screen at all. It appears to not be going through the boot sequence at all. It appears that everything is powered up since the fans are going and everything. I checked the monitor with another pc and it works. What are the next steps for troubleshooting this problem?
I use RealTemp and I've never seen anything above ~45C in terms of heat (during the summer, no AC), so I think that's pretty acceptable.
Specs:
i5-3570k
ASRock z77 Extreme4
G.SKILL 8GB RAM
MSI 7870 GHz
Samsung 1TB HDD
Crucial M4 64GB SSD
And now, the PSU:
SeaSonic M12II 620W
I've had it for around 2.5 years. I think I have a 5 year warranty on it still if I need to send it back.
BoosterDuck
Banned
sorry meant to ask "I need a new PC!"
Got an odd problem. I don't know if I can't explain it right or not, but google hasn't helped me.
So I'm using Windows 7 and I recently activated the ctrl-alt-del Lock Screen because my four-year-old likes to mess with my computer when I leave the room. However, half the time that I use it, the computer acts as if I suddenly started to repeatedly press the Enter key (or something). The lock screen "flashes" a few times - by which I mean it goes between the "enter your password" screen and the "password incorrect" screen about three times and then changes to "Logging In..." for anywhere between one and several minutes. After this, it finally gives the "password incorrect" message again, and after pressing "ok" it takes me back to the login screen. At that point, I can enter my password and log in.
So I'm using Windows 7 and I recently activated the ctrl-alt-del Lock Screen because my four-year-old likes to mess with my computer when I leave the room. However, half the time that I use it, the computer acts as if I suddenly started to repeatedly press the Enter key (or something). The lock screen "flashes" a few times - by which I mean it goes between the "enter your password" screen and the "password incorrect" screen about three times and then changes to "Logging In..." for anywhere between one and several minutes. After this, it finally gives the "password incorrect" message again, and after pressing "ok" it takes me back to the login screen. At that point, I can enter my password and log in.
SolidSnakeUS
Member
I'm copy pasting this from my Nvidia posting of this.
Lately, I've been randomly crashing to black on both monitors with a looping sound when playing games and also when not playing games. I kept thinking it was some sort of software issue with the drivers or with other recently updated programs, but it's not that. After working on it for about 7 hours, I found out that it may actually be the graphics card or the PSU. To fix the issue, I downclocked the GPU by about 30 MHZ on both the core and the memory, and I have not crashed, inside or outside of games, since. Would this be an issue with the graphics card or the power supply though? What would be the best course of action to take here or to possibly test the graphics card in another way? Thank you in advance.
Intel i5-3750K Stock
MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming Stock (now downclocked by 30MHZ)
16GB DDR3-1600 RAM
ASRock Z77 Professional Faility motherboard
NZXT HALE90 750W 80+ Gold PSU
Lately, I've been randomly crashing to black on both monitors with a looping sound when playing games and also when not playing games. I kept thinking it was some sort of software issue with the drivers or with other recently updated programs, but it's not that. After working on it for about 7 hours, I found out that it may actually be the graphics card or the PSU. To fix the issue, I downclocked the GPU by about 30 MHZ on both the core and the memory, and I have not crashed, inside or outside of games, since. Would this be an issue with the graphics card or the power supply though? What would be the best course of action to take here or to possibly test the graphics card in another way? Thank you in advance.
Intel i5-3750K Stock
MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming Stock (now downclocked by 30MHZ)
16GB DDR3-1600 RAM
ASRock Z77 Professional Faility motherboard
NZXT HALE90 750W 80+ Gold PSU
Ok I have NO idea what just happened. I just plugged my new 980 TI into my computer, turn it on for the first time and I heard a static popping noise, before seeing my CD drive had started smoking. After taking that out,I realised my HDD which was on the same SATA cable isn't being detected by my comp, but my SDD is and works fine.
Earlier today I overclocked my CPU (i5 2500k from 3.3MHz to 4MHz) and it had been running fine, so on top of putting my putting graphics card in, I have no idea if this is a coincidence or somehow all related.
The burnt CD drive
Earlier today I overclocked my CPU (i5 2500k from 3.3MHz to 4MHz) and it had been running fine, so on top of putting my putting graphics card in, I have no idea if this is a coincidence or somehow all related.
The burnt CD drive