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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

RGM79

Member
Ok I have NO idea what just happened. I just plugged my new 980 TI into my computer, turn it on for the first time and I heard a static popping noise, before seeing my CD drive had started smoking. After taking that out,I realised my HDD which was on the same SATA cable isn't being detected by my comp, but my SDD is and works fine.

Earlier today I overclocked my CPU (i5 2500k from 3.3MHz to 4MHz) and it had been running fine, so on top of putting my putting graphics card in, I have no idea if this is a coincidence or somehow all related.

The burnt CD drive

ef7rYvv.jpg
First thing to suspect would be the power supply. What brand and model is it?

It could be that the new graphics card and the CPU overclock put too much strain on the PSU. What graphics card did you have in your PC before?

I'm copy pasting this from my Nvidia posting of this.

Lately, I've been randomly crashing to black on both monitors with a looping sound when playing games and also when not playing games. I kept thinking it was some sort of software issue with the drivers or with other recently updated programs, but it's not that. After working on it for about 7 hours, I found out that it may actually be the graphics card or the PSU. To fix the issue, I downclocked the GPU by about 30 MHZ on both the core and the memory, and I have not crashed, inside or outside of games, since. Would this be an issue with the graphics card or the power supply though? What would be the best course of action to take here or to possibly test the graphics card in another way? Thank you in advance.

Intel i5-3750K Stock
MSI GTX 970 4G Gaming Stock (now downclocked by 30MHZ)
16GB DDR3-1600 RAM
ASRock Z77 Professional Faility motherboard
NZXT HALE90 750W 80+ Gold PSU

The power supply should be more than enough for the PC, and I kind of doubt that a tiny 30MHz underclock was the difference that made it draw too much power. Seems like it could be an unstable factory overclock setting.

Try running a graphics card stress tester like Furmark? And do you have the latest drivers installed?
 
The power supply should be more than enough for the PC, and I kind of doubt that a tiny 30MHz underclock was the difference that made it draw too much power. Seems like it could be an unstable factory overclock setting.

Try running a graphics card stress tester like Furmark? And do you have the latest drivers installed?

I had the latest and the 2nd latest drivers and it did the same thing. I just re-seated the card as well and it seems to be running at the normal clocks without any crashes... for right now anyways.
 
Do you have a modular psu? It is possible to put the sata plug in the pci connector, and that will fry hdd and DVD drive motors but leave SSDs intact.
 

Sch1sm

Member
I have a 1TB Seagate external HDD. Would there be any downside to opening it up and putting the drive in my computer?

It's slower than even your standard HDD, but aside from that, no issue in taking it out of its USB enclosure and using it. If you're gaming with it, you'll notice the difference.
 
I'm trying to upgrade the hdd to an ssd on my old Latitude D620 but when I boot up the laptop I get a message saying there is no boot sector on hard drive. The ssd is detected in the bios and when put the DVD as the primary boot to install a new os, there is a pause then same error message. I do have an older version of bios but I can't update it because my battery is dead and it needs the battery and power wire plugged in to start the process? Is this the problem? If so, is there a way to bypass the battery requirement?
 
Hi! I'm trying to run CHKDSK on a 1TB external USB hard drive, and it's acting odd.

I run:

Code:
chkdsk /f /v E:

and it'll say:

Code:
The type of the file system is exFAT.
Volume Serial Number is 5557-91F1
Windows is verifying files and folders...
Volume label is Disk.

...and then... nothing. It just stays on "Volume label is Disk." I've waited for about an hour so far. CHKDSK /f is supposed to be fast, right?

I'm not sure if I want to get into the series of events that led to me wanting to run CHKDSK. To make a long story short, the drive was improperly unplugged from a Mac computer a couple of days ago, and it has been acting strange ever since. All of my data is readable, albeit at speeds that are noticeably slower than normal.

I suspect that the easiest solution would be to simply backup my data and reformat, but I do not currently have any other drives with enough storage space. This data IS backed up, but said backup is about a three hour drive from where I'm currently living. I won't be returning there for another three weeks, and not having access to this data in the interim would be VERY annoying.
 

Sch1sm

Member
Hi! I'm trying to run CHKDSK on a 1TB external USB hard drive, and it's acting odd.

I run:

Code:
chkdsk /f /v E:

and it'll say:

Code:
The type of the file system is exFAT.
Volume Serial Number is 5557-91F1
Windows is verifying files and folders...
Volume label is Disk.

...and then... nothing. It just stays on "Volume label is Disk." I've waited for about an hour so far. CHKDSK /f is supposed to be fast, right?

I'm not sure if I want to get into the series of events that led to me wanting to run CHKDSK. To make a long story short, the drive was improperly unplugged from a Mac computer a couple of days ago, and it has been acting strange ever since. All of my data is readable, albeit at speeds that are noticeably slower than normal.

I suspect that the easiest solution would be to simply backup my data and reformat, but I do not currently have any other drives with enough storage space. This data IS backed up, but said backup is about a three hour drive from where I'm currently living. I won't be returning there for another three weeks, and not having access to this data in the interim would be VERY annoying.


Try /r instead of /f, since /r does everything /f does as well as what it itself does. If that doesn't work, I'd go SMART diagnostic.
 

Sch1sm

Member
Won't that just take even longer though? Would it actually stop CHKDSK from hanging when performing /F-only tasks?

Your misconception is that /f is meant to be quick. It isn't always. It may take longer, yes. Would it work? It has for me when /f has hung. Entirely anecdotal.

Time seems to be an issue for you, otherwise I'd suggest the dism command.

Could ultimately just need time to do its thing. How long did you run chkdsk /f? Sometimes it can be longer than 20 minutes, it isn't unheard of. Give it some time before quitting - unless you've been waiting 24 hours. I'd quit at that point.
 

Lagamorph

Member
Hi all, hoping to get some assistance as this issue is shooting over my head.

I've just re-installed Windows 8.1 (64-bit) on my laptop (though it originally shipped with Windows 7 I upgraded it to Windows 8 at release, but haven't done a full reinstall since then), which is a Clevo X8100. The graphics cards in question are 2 5870m Graphics cards in Crossfire. I've installed the latest drivers from AMD and one of the cards is working fine, but the other shows up with this error in Device Manager, "This device cannot find enough free resources that it can use. (Code 12)". As a result of this I can't enable crossfire in the AMD FirePro options and only one of the cards seems useable.

This is on a brand new Windows 8.1 installation. I've re-installed a few times but consistently get the same issue.

Now, I've done a bit of googling and it looks like this may be related to IRQ usage. I switched my Device Manager to view resources by type and under the IRQ section, only one of the GPUs shows up as a PCI device. There is also a "Multimedia Video Controller" as an unknown device in the device manager, which wont install despite all of the Clevo drivers being installed. I've tried disabling this but it makes no difference.

A screenshot of the two GPUs and the Unknown device entries from device manager, http://i.imgur.com/q4kFeei.jpg

And a screenshot of the IRQ entries, http://i.imgur.com/FtfV31r.jpg

BIOS is as up to date as it can be (though still years old) due to the age of the laptop model. Any help would certainly be very much appreciated.
 

Glass

Member
First thing to suspect would be the power supply. What brand and model is it?

It could be that the new graphics card and the CPU overclock put too much strain on the PSU. What graphics card did you have in your PC before?

Thanks for the reply, I have the Corsair AX760, and this poster has picked up on what I think I did..
Do you have a modular psu? It is possible to put the sata plug in the pci connector, and that will fry hdd and DVD drive motors but leave SSDs intact.

In doing some cable management (since the AX760 is fully modular) I put the sata cable into a PCI slot absent-mindedly... As well as my CD drive getting fried, my HDD seems to be dead. So I imagine that's the answer.

Now I'm just wondering if there's a chance it could have damaged the PSU, as my 980 ti is performing terribly in games (30-80 fps in GTA V on high/ultra, 1080p, avg of 50fps in WoW on high/ultra 1080p) despite using DDU to uninstall my old graphics card drivers. I have an i5 2500k @ 3.3Mhz which although old, wouldn't be bottlenecking so hard. The weird thing is, it seems to be benchmarking absolutely fine in Valley (as far as I can tell)

A9LoV4W.png
 
Hello tech support GAF.

My system:
i5 2500k @ 4.5GHz
Gigabyte z77x-up7
8GB 1600Hz RAM
240GB Intel SSD
1TB HDD
R9 290x 1.1GHz
650W PSU w/ 54A on 12V rail
OS Windows 8.1 (fresh install back from Windows 10 preview)
Monitor LG 29um67p Ultrawide/Freesync

Problem: No sound over DisplayPort

Audio worked perfectly before moving over to Windows 10, then I could only get sound out of the headphone jack.

I tried every fix I could find via Google but none of the fixes mentioned worked for me. So, after the final version of Windows 10 preview rolled out and the issue persisted I did a fresh install of 8.1.

And the issue didn't go away.

Now I'm worried that something's wrong with my GPU, monitor, or there's a driver issue. I reinstalled the AMD drivers but it didn't fix the issue. In Catalyst, when I go to the audio tab sometimes my monitor shows up but is grayed out and sometimes it's not there at all.

Is this a Trueaudio issue or hardware related?
 

bcl0328

Member
Hello tech support GAF.

My system:
i5 2500k @ 4.5GHz
Gigabyte z77x-up7
8GB 1600Hz RAM
240GB Intel SSD
1TB HDD
R9 290x 1.1GHz
650W PSU w/ 54A on 12V rail
OS Windows 8.1 (fresh install back from Windows 10 preview)
Monitor LG 29um67p Ultrawide/Freesync

Problem: No sound over DisplayPort

Audio worked perfectly before moving over to Windows 10, then I could only get sound out of the headphone jack.

I tried every fix I could find via Google but none of the fixes mentioned worked for me. So, after the final version of Windows 10 preview rolled out and the issue persisted I did a fresh install of 8.1.

And the issue didn't go away.

Now I'm worried that something's wrong with my GPU, monitor, or there's a driver issue. I reinstalled the AMD drivers but it didn't fix the issue. In Catalyst, when I go to the audio tab sometimes my monitor shows up but is grayed out and sometimes it's not there at all.

Is this a Trueaudio issue or hardware related?

If you right click your sound panel from the taskbar -> playback devices. Right click the white space and select the option for "Show Disconnected Devices" and "Show Disabled Devices". Do you see an option there for "Digital Audio (HDMI)"? If you do, right click that device and select the option for "Set as default device".
 
If you right click your sound panel from the taskbar -> playback devices. Right click the white space and select the option for "Show Disconnected Devices" and "Show Disabled Devices". Do you see an option there for "Digital Audio (HDMI)"? If you do, right click that device and select the option for "Set as default device".

It shows LG Ultrawide as my default device. The green meter fluctuates when sound should be playing by I get nothing. Just checked and despite showing up in playback devices in Windows, it's still not showing in Catalyst.

Also, nothing is muted and my headphones are unplugged. I went through the device properties and tested on all available frequencies. Still no sound.

This is the driver event log... looks ok to me, but I don't really know what it's supposed to look like, lol.

 
Any idea why my all 4 of the fans in my friends computer would stop working? I don't have much info, but just wanted any common reasons. He says it runs up to 85c and shuts off every ten minutes or so.

Thanks TechGAF.
 

niunhuiio

Member
Hi everyone, I am a young computer newbie who built his first computer months ago and probably won't be able to answer much on this thread, but I do have questions.

Just 10 minutes ago I noticed that the power LED on my case and my glowing mouse kept flashing on and off every half second, and I could faintly hear a fan in my computer also trying to turn itself back on. Power was being cut off really fast. When I budged the ATXPWR1 cable, the computer then decided to turn back on normally. The cable wasn't loose at all when I found it, not sure what's going on, maybe the PSU is going bad.
 

MaxiLive

Member
Hi everyone, I am a young computer newbie who built his first computer months ago and probably won't be able to answer much on this thread, but I do have questions.

Just 10 minutes ago I noticed that the power LED on my case and my glowing mouse kept flashing on and off every half second, and I could faintly hear a fan in my computer also trying to turn itself back on. Power was being cut off really fast. When I budged the ATXPWR1 cable, the computer then decided to turn back on normally. The cable wasn't loose at all when I found it, not sure what's going on, maybe the PSU is going bad.

Yeah, seems like the cable might be a bit faulty? Not the connection it self but the cable going into the connection might be a bit sketchy. I recently had a PSU failed in which only a few of the cables were providing power and the rest were dead.

Now Question time!

I've been running Windows 10 for a while but recently this has started happening:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8DTiVP90G0

In the first clip the game is averaging 70-80fps but as you can see it is stuttering like crazy! If I turn Vsync on then the issue goes away. But this is happening on other games as well where I can't keep a constant 60fps so I like to have Vsync off.

Does anyone know what could be causing it and anything I could try? I've done the usual reinstall of drivers etc but no such luck :( I just have no idea what to check as it seems really odd! AS for PC performance it is fine, only using 30% CPU, HDD isn't all that busy and plenty of memory free.

I was wondering if it was something to do with Windows 10 running something with Vsync causing the game to get confused when it is uncapped?
 

mnbnguyen

Member
Hi everyone,

Lately my computer has been failing to install updates (started on the 15th). I looked at my updates history and some of the updates that it is attempting to install have already been installed on my machine (one from over a year ago!). I had to turn off automatic updates and downloads as it was taking up a lot of CPU. I've tried the Microsite Fixit for windows update and it didn't help much.
 

lazygecko

Member
I am freaking out right now because when I turned on my computer, the display looked like every other vertical pixel row was displaced or something. First I tried changing the resolution to see if it had anything to do with that, but upon doing thatI just got no monitor signal at all. Then I turned my computer off and on again and now everything is fine. I have no idea if this was my monitor or GPU fucking up. Before I changed the resolution, I tried turning the monitor off and on again and it displayed the splash screen without any distortion but the problem in Windows wouldn't go away. I just bought this monitor last week so of course that is my prime suspect, but I just can't be sure at this point.

This is a mockup of what it looked like:

 
I am freaking out right now because when I turned on my computer, the display looked like every other vertical pixel row was displaced or something. First I tried changing the resolution to see if it had anything to do with that, but upon doing thatI just got no monitor signal at all. Then I turned my computer off and on again and now everything is fine.

Mine used to do that a few times a while ago. Hasn't happened for months so I figured it was driver issues, but it might have been the cable or something that wasn't a 100% seated. Is you monitor gsync or do you use displayport?

I wouldn't worry unless it happens frequently.
 

lazygecko

Member
Mine used to do that a few times a while ago. Hasn't happened for months so I figured it was driver issues, but it might have been the cable or something that wasn't a 100% seated. Is you monitor gsync or do you use displayport?

I wouldn't worry unless it happens frequently.

I am using a Gsync monitor, using the standard HDMI cable that came with it. Are you saying I need some other kind of solution for Gsync?
 
I am using a Gsync monitor, using the standard HDMI cable that came with it. Are you saying I need some other kind of solution for Gsync?

No. I was just wondering if you had the same setup as mine since you had the same problem. But the cable should be displayport, not hdmi (marked with a D on the connector, and looks a lot like a hdmi cable).

In either case, I don't think there is something wrong with your monitor unless it starts happening frequently.
 

nicjac

Member
Hey guys,

I have some weird performance issues that I have been trying to solve for the last 2 days, but I have yet to make any progress.

The specs of my workstation (Dell Precision T3610) are as follows:
- Intel Xeon E5-1620 v2
- 32.0 GB of Ram
- Windows 7 Pro 64-bit
- LITEONIT LCS-256 (detected as SCSI Disk Device)
- TOSHIBA DT01ACA2 (2TB) (detected as SCSI Disk Device)
- Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM (2TB) (detected as SCSI Disk Device)

I seem to have IO issues. When tested individually, the drives seem to perform as expected (albeit slightly under benchmarks found through Google searches). But when I read files in various software packages (MATLAB in particular), I get very slow read times, double to triple of what I get at home using a less capable machine under Windows 8.1. I have done testing on both the SSD and the mechanical hard-drives.

I tried to disable services but that had no effect. Drives are set to RAID in the BIOS, even though there is no actual raid array. I thought this might be a source of error and wanted to go to AHCI instead, but I read that it wouldn't make a difference if I do not actually have a RAID array setup. Plus going from RAID to AHCI seems to be a pain without reinstalling windows?

Anyone with some ideas of what could be wrong?

Thanks!
 

ElTopo

Banned
Need a video card recommendation. Current rig:


AMD Athlon II X4 640 3.0GHz 2MB Cache FSB 4000MHz

AMD Heatsink and Fan Included

GIGABYTE GA-870A-UD3 (AMD 870, 6xSATA2,
4xDDR3)

GB (12GB) PC3 10666 DDR3 1333Mhz

1GB ATI Radeon HD5750 GDDR5 PCI-E DVI/HDMI

550watt Stock Supply

I was recommended this card: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQYYPUS/?tag=neogaf0e-20 Which has mixed reviews and is slightly too high. Yes, I know the rig isn't great but I cannot afford to buy a new rig to put together right now. If you have suggestions for what I could buy to upgrade I'm all ears. I really just want something that can run modern games at a minimum of 60FPS on low settings.
 
Need a video card recommendation. Current rig:


AMD Athlon II X4 640 3.0GHz 2MB Cache FSB 4000MHz

AMD Heatsink and Fan Included

GIGABYTE GA-870A-UD3 (AMD 870, 6xSATA2,
4xDDR3)

GB (12GB) PC3 10666 DDR3 1333Mhz

1GB ATI Radeon HD5750 GDDR5 PCI-E DVI/HDMI

550watt Stock Supply

I was recommended this card: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQYYPUS/?tag=neogaf0e-20 Which has mixed reviews and is slightly too high. Yes, I know the rig isn't great but I cannot afford to buy a new rig to put together right now. If you have suggestions for what I could buy to upgrade I'm all ears. I really just want something that can run modern games at a minimum of 60FPS on low settings.

Your budget?

Either way, going with the baseline of 250$, the best card you can possibly get is this one. Same model AMD 290 but with custom cooling and OC by Gigabyte, far better than the stock cooler you listed.

But your PSU might be cutting it too close, depending on its quality. Guru3d suggested a minimum of 550W for a 290x, which is more power hungry than the 290 so you might be fine.

Otherwise, go for this 280x.
 
Willing to spend about $200 on a card. Was looking at these two:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...0446076&PID=6149513&SID=icmg8werjm00ag8y00053

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202099

The specs are very similar and the one with slightly lesser specs is quite a bit cheaper. I just want to play modern games at Medium setting at 60. I don't need Ultra.

Go for the cheaper one. They should perform relatively the same. You can always overclock it to get it run a bit faster anyway.

For future reference though. This is the official PC building thread, ask in this thread to get more answers. This tech support thread is not the right place to ask to get answers for questions like this and the one 2 posts above.
 

Shy

Member
Hi boys and girls.
I have a problem that maybe one of you fine people could help me with.

My computer blue screened for the first time in six months. Now i found out what the problem was the last time (it had to do with the nvidia 3D drivers causing problems with firefox) which i completely wiped from my system.

This time it also crashed while browsing firefox.
So, i looked at the crash dump file and from i understand (i'm not very good at reading them) the cause was my CPU cache. Does this mean my CPU is on the way out, i only got it in aug 2013. Could one of you who is much more computer literate read the crash dump file and tell me what's wrong. Please.

Here are my specs.
CPU: i7 4770K oc'd 4.1mhz @1.151v.
Motherboard: gigabyte sniper M5.
Ram: Corsair platinum 1866mhz 1.5v.
GPU: GTX TITAN 6GB.
Soundcard: Asus xonar D2X. (using 3rd part uni xonar drivers)
OS: Windows 7 home premium 64 bit.
SSD: Corsair neutron 128GB. (for my OS)
HDD: Samsung 3TB 7200RPM.

sorry if i've left anything out, if you need anymore details i'll do my best.
Thanks in advanced for any help you give me.
 

Ramma2

Member
Hi boys and girls.
I have a problem that maybe one of you fine people could help me with.

My computer blue screened for the first time in six months. Now i found out what the problem was the last time (it had to do with the nvidia 3D drivers causing problems with firefox) which i completely wiped from my system.

This time it also crashed while browsing firefox.
So, i looked at the crash dump file and from i understand (i'm not very good at reading them) the cause was my CPU cache. Does this mean my CPU is on the way out, i only got it in aug 2013. Could one of you who is much more computer literate read the crash dump file and tell me what's wrong. Please.

Here are my specs.
CPU: i7 4770K oc'd 4.1mhz @1.151v.
Motherboard: gigabyte sniper M5.
Ram: Corsair platinum 1866mhz 1.5v.
GPU: GTX TITAN 6GB.
Soundcard: Asus xonar D2X. (using 3rd part uni xonar drivers)
OS: Windows 7 home premium 64 bit.
SSD: Corsair neutron 128GB. (for my OS)
HDD: Samsung 3TB 7200RPM.

sorry if i've left anything out, if you need anymore details i'll do my best.
Thanks in advanced for any help you give me.

Hi Shy. One blue screen here and there is no big deal. It's when you start to see repeat blue screens that you should start to spend time diagnosing. I would just write this one off as a window crash and ignore unless it happens again.
 

Shy

Member
Hi Shy. One blue screen here and there is no big deal. It's when you start to see repeat blue screens that you should start to spend time diagnosing. I would just write this one off as a window crash and ignore unless it happens again.
Ok, thanks. i used to get them a lot, but that was because of the whole 3D nvidia thing.
 

Mistake

Member
I'm running windows 8.1 and my usb HDD keeps unmounting when I write to it. My HDD will also unmount or not be accessible at random points in time. This doesn't happen on my windows 7 netbook. I could leave the drive going and have no problems, even if I put it to sleep and woke it up. I am using a usb 2.0 cable and port. Also, I've changed my usb power settings and it still happens.
I figured I would update on this if anyone has the same problem. I changed my 2.0 cable to the 3.0 port and I haven't had any problems so far. I read something searching around about new motherboards not powering HDD's enough through 2.0 which seems to be the case here.
 
Ok, thanks. i used to get them a lot, but that was because of the whole 3D nvidia thing.

One thing you can possibly check is that if the temperature is too high. Use Hwinfo64 for example.

About the crashes with Nvidia drivers, use DDU to completely wipe the drivers in your computer, run CCleaner ( not really necessary ) and reinstall the latest driver version.
 

Miles X

Member
Wondering if anyone here can help me with something stupid I did trying to fix another laptop on my local network. I can't access my C drive, I've somehow changed (revoked) permissions. I logged in in safe mode on the administrator account to try and fix it but no luck, I can't change permissions from anywhere.
 
Wondering if anyone here can help me with something stupid I did trying to fix another laptop on my local network. I can't access my C drive, I've somehow changed (revoked) permissions. I logged in in safe mode on the administrator account to try and fix it but no luck, I can't change permissions from anywhere.

Which version of Windows and what exactly did you do?
 
8.1 and it was when I was messing about with permissions with stuff, I don't know exactly.

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/...e/f50b2db0-d535-4b74-b21f-eac2fed16e52?auth=1

I tried that fix the guy (Yusufat) suggests but doesn't work for me.

I haven't had the same problem before as I've always either retained ownership or been a more powerful user, so I don't have any surefire fixes.

You might try running cmd as administrator, and then do
icacls "C:\" /T /C /Q /RESET

But if you can't reset permissions in safe mode as admin, I don't think this will work any better.

Can you still access the computer remotely? If you somehow have managed to take ownership from you other computer, maybe you could be able to give it back via that computer as well? Is the C drive a network share?
 

Miles X

Member
I haven't had the same problem before as I've always either retained ownership or been a more powerful user, so I don't have any surefire fixes.

You might try running cmd as administrator, and then do
icacls "C:\" /T /C /Q /RESET

But if you can't reset permissions in safe mode as admin, I don't think this will work any better.

Can you still access the computer remotely? If you somehow have managed to take ownership from you other computer, maybe you could be able to give it back via that computer as well? Is the C drive a network share?

I did it on the computer I'm on, and it's running fine (as I'm on it now) only thing I can't do is access C drive. I will try your idea tho, thanks.
 

esms

Member
OK so, if my computer shuts down with no blue screen or error under load and then jumps into a boot loop, that's gotta be the PSU correct?

I use RealTemp and I've never seen anything above ~45C in terms of heat (during the summer, no AC), so I think that's pretty acceptable.

Specs:
i5-3570k
ASRock z77 Extreme4
G.SKILL 8GB RAM
MSI 7870 GHz
Samsung 1TB HDD
Crucial M4 64GB SSD

And now, the PSU:
SeaSonic M12II 620W

I've had it for around 2.5 years. I think I have a 5 year warranty on it still if I need to send it back.

Just following up on this. My computers been in a coma for 6 months and I'm finally getting around to fixing it. Any advice is appreciated.
 

daxy

Member
(Cross-post from I need a new PC thread)

Hey guys/gals, could use some help. Just assembled my new PC, but I'm getting the following message upon start up: reboot and select proper boot device. It's not booting into the BIOS and isn't giving me the option to do so either. The strange thing is that it will boot into BIOS just fine once I disconnect the power to my SSD (my only storage device).

What could be the problem here?

EDIT: solved, just had to spam Del.
 

MiszMasz

Member
Just following up on this. My computers been in a coma for 6 months and I'm finally getting around to fixing it. Any advice is appreciated.

PSU would be my guess too. Sounds like it's just cutting before Windows even gets to react. Do you happen to have another/a spare PSU rated high enough and of reasonable quality that you could try it with for comparison?
 

Mistake

Member
I'm on 8.1 and there is one bug that gets pretty annoying when I type and try to make corrections. The keyboard repeat rate becomes very slow. Typing is normal, but when I move the cursing thing back and forth with the arrows, it goes one letter at a time and isn't fast at all. Going to my keyboard settings makes it back to normal for a bit, but eventually happens again.
 
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