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[Spladam]

Disabling by going into Advanced\System Agent Configuration\Graphics and setting the primary display to PCI-E, right?
After saving the keeps reverting to auto and the issue still remains :|

Yeah, that is correct.
Are you comfortable updating your BIOS on your Motherboard? Do that first and then check if it retains the PCI-E setting, then get back to me.

Edit: The board should have come with a utility for updating the Bios.

 

[Mozendo]

Yeah, that is correct.
Are you comfortable updating your BIOS on your Motherboard? Do that first and then check if it retains the PCI-E setting, then get back to me.

Edit: The board should have come with a utility for updating the Bios.

Just went from 2601 to 2702 and currently on 2801 and no dice
Guess I'll give Asus customer support a shot.

Edit: Can't contact their customer support boo.
Edit 2: Just to make sure I didn't screw something up I did another reformat same thing

 

[Lucael]

About your 970s temps, are you running stock clocks and are you running more then one display? Running more than one display increases idle temps by a good bit. I idle at 51* with two displays going.

-Edit: Never mind, the Strix has a zero decibel fan that does not activate until you hit 55-60* C. You can fix this by setting a custom fan curve in the Asus OEM software (Asus GPU Tweak), 15% idle fan speed should bring you down to about 40*C Depending on which Bios you have in the Strix the lowest you can set the idle curve might be 40%, as it is for some. If that is the case, set it at that and see if you can tolerate the fan noise, your awesome new case should do a decent job of suppressing some of the decibels.

And take your time putting that new mainboard in when you get it, check out my post in response to Martal above. Those screws are tough as they are so tiny, and lining up the board can be tedious sometimes. Patience is the key.

Hey, so I checked my GPU stats on Nvidia Inspector and found that clock speed was at maximum MHz. After checking some forums, I put the power management on my standard profile of Nvidia Inspector from maximum performance to adaptive and the GPU temperature went down to 53° on idle. About displays, I have a Sony TV on HDMI, but I usually use the "only one screen" option, switching from one to another when I'm playing.

 

[Spladam]

Hey, so I checked my GPU stats on Nvidia Inspector and found that clock speed was at maximum MHz. After checking some forums, I put the power management on my standard profile of Nvidia Inspector from maximum performance to adaptive and the GPU temperature went down to 53° on idle. About displays, I have a Sony TV on HDMI, but I usually use the "only one screen" option, switching from one to another when I'm playing.

Ok, I see what was wrong, tell me though, did you change it to maximum performance? Adaptive is always better, and the change in performance will actually be minimal, the only time the "Maximum Performance" setting is of much use is when bench marking. It seems 53* C is the cut-on temp for the Strix fan curve, you can bring that temp down more with a custom fan curve if you feel the need. MSI Afterburner is a favorite app of mine for doing that.

 

[Spladam]

Just went from 2601 to 2702 and currently on 2801 and no dice
Guess I'll give Asus customer support a shot.

Edit: Can't contact their customer support boo.
Edit 2: Just to make sure I didn't screw something up I did another reformat same thing

Ok, I take it the video cable IS plugged in through the GPU and not the adapter on the Mother board correct? The power cables for the 970 are securely set in the GPU and the GPU is firmly set into the PCI-E slots, just double checking the basics first.

 

[oneran]

Yeah, it was set as default audio device. And I did check the output levels. It seems a fairly common problem. With driver updates breaking/repairing HDMI audio at random.

When you go the Playback devices tab and select 'Test' from the context menu on the AMD HDMI Output you can see the little green level bars go up and down put no sound actually plays just as an additional little taunt.

The only other thing I can recommend is cycling through any compatible previous hdmi audio drivers:

Device Manager > AMD High Def Audio Device > Properties > Driver Tab > Update Driver > Browse My computer > Let me pick from a list

If there are any previous versions of the driver available you should try one after the other and see if your situation improves.

You can also try uninstalling the hdmi audio driver from the Driver Tab and then rebooting if you haven't already done so.

 

[Popstar]

.

 

[Martal]

Yes, normally it is safe to assume the DIMM sockets are fine, as a breach in the factory solder are almost unheard of, but failure in the RAM modules themselves would be MUCH more common by comparison.

You can test all of the RAM at the same time, it might save you some time as the only time you want to test one at a time is if you get errors when testing them all at the same time, otherwise you don't have to go through the entire ordeal four times. Remember to not touch the (as best you can manage) the copper connection on the bottom of the RAM module (the part that fits into the socket) as you can easily discharge static from you body into these, and RAM is one of the most static sensitive components on a PC.

When switching cases, it is very helpful to make yourself a clean workspace and carefully remove everything one step at a time laying the components down next to you in the order you remover them with the screws for each component separated (I fold paper into a little "dish" and place each set of screws in the paper next to the components.

Obviously, removing the motherboard itself should be done with the most care, as the screws are tiny, and if you have the protective anti-static sleeve the motherboard came in, place it on that to avoid static discharge, If not, then try to place it on a surface such as wood that is not a conductor of static electricity.

When you place the components back into the new case, just reverse the order in which you removed them and everything should go in nicely. Remember if you use a screwdriver with a magnetic head be careful what you touch with the head, and always try to keep one hand on the chassis of the case to keep yourself electrically grounded.

Take your time and everything will go fine, it's not as complicated as most would make it seem (or as I make it sound Good luck.

Thanks again for you help sir! The case didn't arrive today, I was promised tomorrow. I'll leave an update on my final progress.

 

[Zoidberg Jesus]

I'm at work, and Trend Micro Office Scan keeps popping up on every NeoGAF page I go to, but not on other websites. It says it blocked a malicious URL (ht*tp://api.viglink/api/optimize (asterisk added to prevent URL link in post)) which is a verified fraud page or threat source. Is there anyway I can stop this from popping up? Please don't say "Stop browsing NeoGAF at work".

 

[MadSol]

I'm at work, and Trend Micro Office Scan keeps popping up on every NeoGAF page I go to, but not on other websites. It says it blocked a malicious URL (ht*tp://api.viglink/api/optimize (asterisk added to prevent URL link in post)) which is a verified fraud page or threat source. Is there anyway I can stop this from popping up? Please don't say "Stop browsing NeoGAF at work".

Not familiar with Trend Micro Office or it's settings, but I use the Ghostery browser add-on that blocks it before loading the page. I don't know if you have enough permissions to install it, it's pretty straight forward and you can change the alert bubble to show, the time shown, location or not to show at all.

 

[unholyrevenger72]

I'm at work, and Trend Micro Office Scan keeps popping up on every NeoGAF page I go to, but not on other websites. It says it blocked a malicious URL (ht*tp://api.viglink/api/optimize (asterisk added to prevent URL link in post)) which is a verified fraud page or threat source. Is there anyway I can stop this from popping up? Please don't say "Stop browsing NeoGAF at work".

Turn Ad-Block on?

 

[Zoidberg Jesus]

Not familiar with Trend Micro Office or it's settings, but I use the Ghostery browser add-on that blocks it before loading the page. I don't know if you have enough permissions to install it, it's pretty straight forward and you can change the alert bubble to show, the time shown, location or not to show at all.

That worked. Thanks!

 

[Lucael]

Ok, I see what was wrong, tell me though, did you change it to maximum performance? Adaptive is always better, and the change in performance will actually be minimal, the only time the "Maximum Performance" setting is of much use is when bench marking. It seems 53* C is the cut-on temp for the Strix fan curve, you can bring that temp down more with a custom fan curve if you feel the need. MSI Afterburner is a favorite app of mine for doing that.

I put the "maximum performance" some weeks ago trying to have a better performance on a specific game. Since I red somewhere that maximum performance would be better for gaming, I had that setting on the standard profile until today. I should pick better sources actually When I changed to "Adaptive", the temperature went a lot down and I must correct myself, when I boot the PC now the temperature of GPU is around 35°. The first valure I checked was just after changing the setting, so was still a bit high.

 

[jett]

So I have this old C2D kicking around, it has pretty much gone unused for over a year, except for one boot a couple of times ago, to check if it was working properly (it was). I was thinking about formatting it, re-installing windows and giving it away to my mom, but it doesn't seem to boot anymore. There's no picture on the screen, at all, not even the bios or anything. The monitor and the cable I used are fine.

There's an ATI 4670 in it, I've tried uninstalling it and connecting the display directly to the motherboard video output.
I've tried jumbling/removing the RAM memory.
I've tried unplugging every device.
I've tried removing the MB's jumper so it goes into "recovery mode."
I thought it could be the CMOS battery but it should still boot regardless, right?

I get nothing. No display at all, and seemingly no activity from the hard drive, so it doesn't seem like it's booting anything either. Everything turns on and the MB, CPU and video card's fans spin. That's about all I get.

Any ideas? I'm all out. It's an intel mobo with a C2D 6320, and 3GB of ram. Nothing fancy. It worked just fine the last time I tried it.

 

[Spladam]

So I have this old C2D kicking around, it has pretty much gone unused for over a year, except for one boot a couple of times ago, to check if it was working properly (it was). I was thinking about formatting it, re-installing windows and giving it away to my mom, but it doesn't seem to boot anymore. There's no picture on the screen, at all, not even the bios or anything. The monitor and the cable I used are fine.

There's an ATI 4670 in it, I've tried uninstalling it and connecting the display directly to the motherboard video output.
I've tried jumbling/removing the RAM memory.
I've tried unplugging every device.
I've tried removing the MB's jumper so it goes into "recovery mode."
I thought it could be the CMOS battery but it should still boot regardless, right?

I get nothing. No display at all, and seemingly no activity from the hard drive, so it doesn't seem like it's booting anything either. Everything turns on and the MB, CPU and video card's fans spin. That's about all I get.

Any ideas? I'm all out. It's an intel mobo with a C2D 6320, and 3GB of ram. Nothing fancy. It worked just fine the last time I tried it.

From your question I gather you used a monitor that you currently use or have tested on another machine to confirm it works, correct?

It sounds like hard disk failure (Most all consumer hard drives have an expected life span of 5 years), make sure there is power firmly plugged into the Hard disk and drives (all the components really) which leads me to my second guess, the Power Supply Unit.
It sounds like it might be the power if it's not the hard disk. I"m not familiar with the C2d, but I imagine it's a custom factory PSU, which may or may not have an extra power cable for an extra Hard Disk or optical drive. Remove the power cable that is run from the PSU to the HD and insert one that is not being used if the PSU has one then attempt to boot it up. Keep the case open, and while holding one hand on the case chassis to ground yourself, touch the HD to feel for any activity or if it's even spinning up.

And yeah, it should boot even if the Motherboard's CMOS battery has been depleted. Just to be sure the BIOS is clean, remove the battery and use a metal screwdriver to touch the positive and ground (the metal part on the bottom of the battery insert and the metal part on the side/top) and hold the screwdriver there for 12 seconds, insert the battery and try to boot, it will use the factory BIOS backup.

 

[Mozendo]

Ok, I take it the video cable IS plugged in through the GPU and not the adapter on the Mother board correct? The power cables for the 970 are securely set in the GPU and the GPU is firmly set into the PCI-E slots, just double checking the basics first.

Okay I fixed it, apparently the Windows 7 setup disc was to blame.
I feel really silly, thanks for responding to me!

 

[Spladam]

Okay I fixed it, apparently the Windows 7 setup disc was to blame.
I feel really silly, thanks for responding to me!

Don't feel silly, a good 30% of the time it's something mundane like this, that makes us shake our heads when we realize what it is. Glad it's working.

 

[jett]

From your question I gather you used a monitor that you currently use or have tested on another machine to confirm it works, correct?

It sounds like hard disk failure (Most all consumer hard drives have an expected life span of 5 years), make sure there is power firmly plugged into the Hard disk and drives (all the components really) which leads me to my second guess, the Power Supply Unit.
It sounds like it might be the power if it's not the hard disk. I"m not familiar with the C2d, but I imagine it's a custom factory PSU, which may or may not have an extra power cable for an extra Hard Disk or optical drive. Remove the power cable that is run from the PSU to the HD and insert one that is not being used if the PSU has one then attempt to boot it up. Keep the case open, and while holding one hand on the case chassis to ground yourself, touch the HD to feel for any activity or if it's even spinning up.

And yeah, it should boot even if the Motherboard's CMOS battery has been depleted. Just to be sure the BIOS is clean, remove the battery and use a metal screwdriver to touch the positive and ground (the metal part on the bottom of the battery insert and the metal part on the side/top) and hold the screwdriver there for 12 seconds, insert the battery and try to boot, it will use the factory BIOS backup.

I tried running it every device disconnected, no dice. The PSU has been replaced several times, it's just some crap thing. I guess i'll try the CMOS battery, thanks.

 

[Spladam]

I tried running it every device disconnected, no dice. The PSU has been replaced several times, it's just some crap thing. I guess i'll try the CMOS battery, thanks.

Did you detect any activity from the Hard Drive? Did it feel like the drive was spinning and the read head was moving?

 

[Kilrogg]

I'm running Windows 8.1 64 bits on my office laptop, and today the Start Menu and File Explorer have started acting up.
Can't open the Start Menu, taskbar freezes and stays frozen until I open the Task manager and restart the File Explorer (but then it immediately crashes again if I try to use it). I've tried running CCleaner, but when I start cleaning it just stays stuck on "cleaning Internet Explorer temporary files" and never goes beyond that.

Also, I haven't been able to open Windows Update for a while (the settings menu just starts not responding anymore if I click on Windows Update).

I'm frankly at a loss. It's not like I've done anything weird with the machine recently. No new hardware, no new software installation, no browsing shady websites, nothing.

You guys have any idea what I should do?

 

[Spladam]

I'm running Windows 8.1 64 bits on my office laptop, and today the Start Menu and File Explorer have started acting up.
Can't open the Start Menu, taskbar freezes and stays frozen until I open the Task manager and restart the File Explorer (but then it immediately crashes again if I try to use it). I've tried running CCleaner, but when I start cleaning it just stays stuck on "cleaning Internet Explorer temporary files" and never goes beyond that.

Also, I haven't been able to open Windows Update for a while (the settings menu just starts not responding anymore if I click on Windows Update).

I'm frankly at a loss. It's not like I've done anything weird with the machine recently. No new hardware, no new software installation, no browsing shady websites, nothing.

You guys have any idea what I should do?

Do you have an up to date anti-virus program and have you done a scan? The inablility to update windows is a red flag.

 

[diggmcbadass]

Did you detect any activity from the Hard Drive? Did it feel like the drive was spinning and the read head was moving?

It should POST regardless of HDD is even connected

I tried running it every device disconnected, no dice. The PSU has been replaced several times, it's just some crap thing. I guess i'll try the CMOS battery, thanks.

I've actually seen a thin client not boot due to depleted CMOS battery before, but can't recall ever seeing the same thing for a full fledged PC. You never know though. It is within the realm of possibility, though not very common.

 

[Kilrogg]

Do you have an up to date anti-virus program and have you done a scan? The inablility to update windows is a red flag.

I have Windows Defender, though right now I tried to open it and it says that it's deactivated and that I should check if I don't have another antivirus program running. Problem is my computer is kind of a pain to navigate right now with all the taskbar/start menu shenanigans I've had for the past few hours.

What do I have to do to regain some control so that I can update/run the antivirus software?

[EDIT] Even worse: I could access the control panel just a few minutes ago, now I can't seem to be able to do that anymore. I'm screwed, aren't I?

 

[oneran]

I have Windows Defender, though right now I tried to open it and it says that it's deactivated and that I should check if I don't have another antivirus program running. Problem is my computer is kind of a pain to navigate right now with all the taskbar/start menu shenanigans I've had for the past few hours.

What do I have to do to regain some control so that I can update/run the antivirus software?

[EDIT] Even worse: I could access the control panel just a few minutes ago, now I can't seem to be able to do that anymore. I'm screwed, aren't I?

Try running the System File Checker if you can.

But at this point your probably best off just backing up any important data and re-installing the operating system. Once you have a clean install download a free av like avast and do scan of your backup just in case.

 

[Kilrogg]

Try running the System File Checker if you can.

But at this point your probably best off just backing up any important data and re-installing the operating system. Once you have a clean install download a free av like avast and do scan of your backup just in case.

Do you know any way to access the System File Checker/cmd prompt outside of using the Start Menu? I can't even start a file search.

 

[oneran]

Do you know any way to access the System File Checker/cmd prompt outside of using the Start Menu? I can't even start a file search.

Right click the desktop > New > Shortcut > Type CMD in the location > next > finish

right click cmd.exe > run as admin

 

[Kilrogg]

Right click the desktop > New > Shortcut > Type CMD in the location > next > finish

right click cmd.exe > run as admin

Thanks! Just ran the SFC. Says there are damaged files but that it couldn't repair them. There's a log file of the scan, which is super long... What to do?

 

[Spladam]

It should POST regardless of HDD is even connected

True. I had a lady bring me an old Optiplex with a Core 2 in a couple years ago, the machine was from like 08-09, it wouldn't POST, the fans would still turn, but the HDD would not spin up. I figured the 12V was good enough to power to POST because the fans were spinning, but it indeed turned out to be the 12v rail on the PSU, the disk would not let the HDD spin up with low unclean 12v, I forget what it was putting out when I tested it, but I have no other way to narrow down jett's problem to the PSU. I have seen the HDD spin and machines post on bad 12v power many times, but I figured since it was from the same era, it might give me a clue. He did say he was getting no HDD activity, but wanted to be sure. I'm kinda shooting in the dark here.

Hope the battery fixes it.

 

[oneran]

Thanks! Just ran the SFC. Says there are damaged files but that it couldn't repair them. There's a log file of the scan, which is super long... What to do?

You can try using the Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth command but it doesn't always work. If it can repair the image then re-run the sfc.

But again, your probably best off just backing up any important data and re-installing the operating system.

 

[Kilrogg]

You can try using the Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth command but it doesn't always work. If it can repair the image then re-run the sfc.

That just gave me a message about the Management and maintenance tool (translating from French), a version number and an image version.

But again, your probably best off just backing up any important data and re-installing the operating system.

You mean just the OS, or should I format the whole thing?

[EDIT] Spoke too soon, it's running the maintenance tool right now.

 

[Spladam]

That just gave me a message about the Management and maintenance tool (translating from French), a version number and an image version.



You mean just the OS, or should I format the whole thing?

You can also replace the corrupted files from another copy of windows, but it's a pain in the ass and it depends on how many it found. If you open up the .log file in notepad and hit Ctrl+F and type "Cannot Repair" it will highlight all entries of corrupted files in the log that could not be repaired. You just need to re-install the OS.

Edit: cool. You can also open the elevated command prompt by pressing Winkey + X which gives you a quick selection where Command Prompt (Admin) is one of the options.

 

[oneran]

That just gave me a message about the Management and maintenance tool (translating from French), a version number and an image version.



You mean just the OS, or should I format the whole thing?

[EDIT] Spoke too soon, it's running the maintenance tool right now.

Let it run, since your using win 8 you can probably try a refresh before trying a full format and reinstall.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/restore-refresh-reset-pc

(Even though it says it won't affect your files, make sure to backup anything important just in-case)

 

[Kilrogg]

You can also replace the corrupted files from another copy of windows, but it's a pain in the ass and it depends on how many it found. If you open up the .log file in notepad and hit Ctrl+F and type "Cannot Repair" it will highlight all entries of corrupted files in the log that could not be repaired. You just need to re-install the OS.

Let it run, since your using win 8 you can probably try a refresh before trying a full format and reinstall.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/restore-refresh-reset-pc

(Even though it says it won't affect your files, make sure to backup anything important just in-case)

Gotcha, thanks. The tool has been stuck at 20% for a while, but I'm gonna let it run some more

[EDIT] Against all odds, that worked. So now I'll re-run sfc.exe, as you suggested oneran.

 

[Kilrogg]

Well, what do you know, the SFC scan worked after I ran the maintenance tool. It says it didn't find any integrity violation.

What now?

 

[oneran]

Well, what do you know, the SFC scan worked after I ran the maintenance tool. It says it didn't find any integrity violation.

What now?

From an administrative command prompt try running chkdsk /r it will prompt you to run the scan once the computer restarts type y and press enter, restart the Pc and let the scan run if everything is still messed up after you boot into windows start the refresh.

 

[Yankee Ruin X]

Hi not sure where else to post this but I could do with some help in regards to Whatsapp.

My girlfriend keeps getting absolutely hammered with calls/texts/emails from her ex. She has got a new SIM card and has changed her email address. We were wondering if once the new SIM is up and running if he will be able to get her new number through Whatsapp?

I have been looking around and can't find a definitive answer on this question. I know you can change your number associated with your Whatsapp account but we didn't want to do that and then have him discover her new number through that.

Would it be best to just make a new Whatsapp account?

 

[Spladam]

From an administrative command prompt try running chkdsk /r it will prompt you to run the scan once the computer restarts type y and press enter, restart the Pc and let the scan run if everything is still messed up after you boot into windows start the refresh.

oneran's got you covered on this, it'll just mess you up with two of us responding to you at different times, but I just remembered, on Windows 8 you can use the shortcut WinKey + X to open up the tool window that has Command Prompt (Admin) as one of the options. Good luck.

 

[Kilrogg]

From an administrative command prompt try running chkdsk /r it will prompt you to run the scan once the computer restarts type y and press enter, restart the Pc and let the scan run if everything is still messed up after you boot into windows start the refresh.

oneran's got you covered on this, it'll just mess you up with two of us responding to you at different times, but I just remembered, on Windows 8 you can use the shortcut WinKey + X to open up the tool window that has Command Prompt (Admin) as one of the options. Good luck.

You guys are awesome. After I did the chkdsk scan I was able to use the start menu again, and even download and install all the Windows updates. I'm gonna run various antivirus/malware/registry scans for good measure. Thank you so much.

Only thing I haven't been able to fix yet is Windows Defender. It says it's deactivated, yet I don't have any other antivirus program installed, and WD doesn't show up in the Action Center. I literally can't find anything on antiviruses in the control panel for some reason.

 

[ElTopo]

Any good resources for troubleshooting Macs? I don't have much experience with Mac's, probably going to do a lot of googling, but some kind of guide to the basics would help. I start a new helpdesk job next week.

 

[TheGamingBox]

update wont install, what can i do about it?

 

[Deleted member 325805]

You can manually update it, or just wait until they fix it, I have the same thing and I'll just wait it out.

 

[oneran]

update wont install, what can i do about it?

Mine installed fine, ensure edge is closed and not running in the background.

 

[jotun?]

Looking for ideas on how to recover some data off an SSD that's acting bit screwed up


G.Skill SATA II Sniper 120GB, FM-25S2S-120GBSR

It was once part of a RAID-0 pair that I used in my PC for a while with no issues. The RAID partition size was 210 GB.

After I replaced that pair of drives with a single larger one in my PC, I took one of the 120s and put it in my mom's PC. I set it to AHCI mode, made a fresh Windows install, and everything was peachy.

Recently, several months later, it started failing to boot. It would prompt for a system repair, then just lock up regardless of what she chose. Simply having the drive connected would even cause the Windows 7 boot CD to hang on loading up.

So I gave her the other drive from the pair with a fresh windows 10 install and brought the failing one home with me to see if I can figure out a way to recover her documents. She's still having some problems though, where the PC will sometimes power down and require some unplugging/replugging to come back up. I'm suspecting that there's a power supply issue that also caused the initial SSD problem, so we just ordered a new PSU.


Now I have the failed drive at home with me. I've tried it in two of my PCs here, with the same results in both, and both of which are different from what I saw when I tried it in my mom's PC. Now having the drive installed doesn't cause any problems with my normal Windows bootup (off a different drive).

I have my SATA controllers both set to AHCI, and I have no RAID arrays. When I go to Windows Disk Management, this single 120GB SSD is showing up as 210 (?!) GB of uninitialized (not just unpartitioned) space. Attempting to initialize it just produces a CRC error.

Does it make any kind of sense that this drive, which was most recently used as a single 120GB system drive, is showing up with its old RAID size? Any ideas on how I could possibly recover any data from it?

 

[Spladam]

Looking for ideas on how to recover some data off an SSD that's acting bit screwed up


G.Skill SATA II Sniper 120GB, FM-25S2S-120GBSR

It was once part of a RAID-0 pair that I used in my PC for a while with no issues. The RAID partition size was 210 GB.

After I replaced that pair of drives with a single larger one in my PC, I took one of the 120s and put it in my mom's PC. I set it to AHCI mode, made a fresh Windows install, and everything was peachy.

Recently, several months later, it started failing to boot. It would prompt for a system repair, then just lock up regardless of what she chose. Simply having the drive connected would even cause the Windows 7 boot CD to hang on loading up.

So I gave her the other drive from the pair with a fresh windows 10 install and brought the failing one home with me to see if I can figure out a way to recover her documents. She's still having some problems though, where the PC will sometimes power down and require some unplugging/replugging to come back up. I'm suspecting that there's a power supply issue that also caused the initial SSD problem, so we just ordered a new PSU.


Now I have the failed drive at home with me. I've tried it in two of my PCs here, with the same results in both, and both of which are different from what I saw when I tried it in my mom's PC. Now having the drive installed doesn't cause any problems with my normal Windows bootup (off a different drive).

I have my SATA controllers both set to AHCI, and I have no RAID arrays. When I go to Windows Disk Management, this single 120GB SSD is showing up as 210 (?!) GB of uninitialized (not just unpartitioned) space. Attempting to initialize it just produces a CRC error.

Does it make any kind of sense that this drive, which was most recently used as a single 120GB system drive, is showing up with its old RAID size? Any ideas on how I could possibly recover any data from it?

I've had similar issues with Windows Disk Mangagement in the past, this is a tough one. Try viewing the disk with this and see if it works any better.

 

[Zapages]

Is google down for anyone? I can access it through my desktop (windows 7), but on my macbook pro (via Safari and Firefox) I get secure connection failed.

Some folks on reddit are reporting it too: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/3mbnd3/err_connection_closed/

EDIT: Fixed it by resetting my DNS settings on mac.

EDIT2: Never mind its not fixed.

 

[Spladam]

Is google down for anyone? I can access it through my desktop (windows 7), but on my macbook pro (via Safari and Firefox) I get secure connection failed.

Some folks on reddit are reporting it too: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/3mbnd3/err_connection_closed/

EDIT: Fixed it by resetting my DNS settings on mac.

EDIT2: Never mind its not fixed.

https://downdetector.com/status/google

You're not alone, I'm afraid you're stuck with Bing until it's fixed, sorry

-Edit: only certain parts of the world affected.

 

[Martal]

Yes, normally it is safe to assume the DIMM sockets are fine, as a breach in the factory solder are almost unheard of, but failure in the RAM modules themselves would be MUCH more common by comparison.

You can test all of the RAM at the same time, it might save you some time as the only time you want to test one at a time is if you get errors when testing them all at the same time, otherwise you don't have to go through the entire ordeal four times. Remember to not touch the (as best you can manage) the copper connection on the bottom of the RAM module (the part that fits into the socket) as you can easily discharge static from you body into these, and RAM is one of the most static sensitive components on a PC.

When switching cases, it is very helpful to make yourself a clean workspace and carefully remove everything one step at a time laying the components down next to you in the order you remover them with the screws for each component separated (I fold paper into a little "dish" and place each set of screws in the paper next to the components.

Obviously, removing the motherboard itself should be done with the most care, as the screws are tiny, and if you have the protective anti-static sleeve the motherboard came in, place it on that to avoid static discharge, If not, then try to place it on a surface such as wood that is not a conductor of static electricity.

When you place the components back into the new case, just reverse the order in which you removed them and everything should go in nicely. Remember if you use a screwdriver with a magnetic head be careful what you touch with the head, and always try to keep one hand on the chassis of the case to keep yourself electrically grounded.

Take your time and everything will go fine, it's not as complicated as most would make it seem (or as I make it sound Good luck.

Just wanted to say everything has been fine for a week now. Received my new case and a new CPU cooler (Hyper 212 EVO) today. Install was a pain, I think I used too much paste, but temps are much lower and case is much quieter. All good. Thanks again for the help!

 

[Spladam]

Just wanted to say everything has been fine for a week now. Received my new case and a new CPU cooler (Hyper 212 EVO) today. Install was a pain, I think I used too much paste, but temps are much lower and case is much quieter. All good. Thanks again for the help!

Awesome, good to hear, enjoy the gaming.

Many people use excess paste, as it takes surprisingly little. Just be wary of any that might have squeezed out the sides when you locked the 212 down.

 

[chronic_archaic]

Anyone know why a laptop fan will cease to spin and what I can do to fix it? Right now the computer is usable but only with a underclock to 800mhz per core. I used to be able to run it at 2200mhz on each core with roughly the same temps I'm getting now. The fan is not spinning at all.

 

[Martal]

Awesome, good to hear, enjoy the gaming.

Many people use excess paste, as it takes surprisingly little. Just be wary of any that might have squeezed out the sides when you locked the 212 down.

In fact that's why I was worried. I saw a little eeking out of the sides. I did my best to remove it with q-tips.

Any symptoms of excess thermal paste I should be on the look-out for?

Right now the temps are very good. The only temp that is a bit on the high side is my TMPIN0 reading which goes up to about 48 degress max and hangs around 40 degrees when idle.


PS - I live in Estonia. I know the preferred way to clean CPUs and or coolers is rubbing alcohol. But that doesn't seem to be readily available here. Aside from stuff like ArtiClean etc that is way overpriced, are there any other alternatives?

Quick update - just opened up the case to put a harddrive in. Looked fine. I'll stay vigilant.