unholyrevenger72
Banned
open it up and check the connections.
-
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
open it up and check the connections.
Spladam
Member
No, you're good, the tight bond made by the cooler clamps would most likely have forced any excess out, and that would not hurt you in there. Most thermal compound is not very conductive, with a few exceptions, and that is your main concern, that it does not short the CPU or Heatsink to another component, which is should not do if wiped. The paste is however, capacitive, as it's composed of dielectric material, and with that you only want to make sure you don't have a clump of it, which you have done by wiping it.
As far as temps go, extra paste does not hurt, the purpose of the paste is to fill in the little holes and imperfections you cannot see on the outer lid of the CPU and create a conductive path for heat to exchange into the heatsink, so you have that covered and more. As long as you wiped it up as best you could and the paste you wiped that did not come off is not touching any circuit trace on the Motherboard or any other metal components you're good.
Those temps under 50*C are great, and as long as you blow that case out with some compressed air and clean the heatsink every once in a while, you will have a VERY efficient PC. This means you can turn those clocks up if you want, and as long as you keep everything in the UEFI BIOS set to auto (besides the clock ratio you are increasing) it truly is easy. They have made overclocking very simple these days.
Most of all, enjoy it.
Spladam
Member
Be very very careful when opening a laptop, if you remove screws be very careful where you place them and try to place them in a line in the order you removed them, trying as best as you can to remember WHERE you removed them from.
Search on the internet first, for your make and model, and try to find any mainenace tutorials on your specific machine, as one can often do more damage than good when taking apart a laptop. Be especially vigilant with the connectiosn and ribbons between the monitor and the bottom case, and go slowly, using nonmagnetic tools when you can, and doing it in a static free work space (not on carpet).
I would most likely be to your advantage to read about the fan used on your machine and go ahead and buy a replacement for it before you even open the machine.
Thanks for clarifying everything, now I'm even more at ease with the thing! Cheers!
Hey guys, i have a downsampling issue. I don't wanna use DSR cause it adds blur, so i was trying to add custom resolutions. I have a 980 ti with a g-sync 144hz monitor. When i add a 1440p/60hz it works, but when i press ok to save the custom resolution it doesn't work. Are there some optimal timings to set?
What version of windows? and have you tried using the basic startup repair utility from his Windows installation media?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
You can adjust the blurriness when using DSR, try 15%.
He downloaded a win 7 disk, but it didn't give him the option to restore or recover, just install.
Baroquemantic
Member
Having an issue with Windows Update. Any help would be appreciated.
My mom's laptop is running Windows 7 Home Premium SP1. Important Update KB3035583 keeps failing and the error code is 80073701. I've reset the Windows Update components, but that didn't help at all. It's been a couple of months now that this update has refused to install, and from what I've read, it's related to W10, and may be the reason her laptop has yet to be updated?
Thanks in advance.
My mom's laptop is running Windows 7 Home Premium SP1. Important Update KB3035583 keeps failing and the error code is 80073701. I've reset the Windows Update components, but that didn't help at all. It's been a couple of months now that this update has refused to install, and from what I've read, it's related to W10, and may be the reason her laptop has yet to be updated?
Thanks in advance.
Is there no repair your computer option under install now?
Have you tried running the system file checker?
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/929833
If this is the only update that won't install and you just want to update to windows 10 try downloading the media creation tool.
http://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10
ah this seems like the thread I want.
so I am not an expert at ram but want to upgrade my ram in my machine as it's constantly in 60%+ usage because I run a lot of background programs (steam, RSS feed, Outlook, browser ect) even though I have 8gb in it.
I want to upgrade to 16gb, as that should solve my ram issue I have from time to time when I am playing games (I mean I can close all my background apps and it's fine but I would rather not need to)
I have a dell xps 8300, from this thread it seems that my computer has 4 x 2GB DDR3 PC3-10600 1333MHz at a 9-9-9-24 timing.
I am currently looking at either this or this or this or this
I've read that my ram runs at 1333 but if i stick some of this 1600 in there that it should just set itself to 1333 and run fine.
I have also read that it's important that the timing is the same if I want to just leave some of the old 2gb in there to make it go to 20gb of ram, but that there isn't much point unless I upgrade windows as on premium I am locked to 16gb anyways (not sure if upgrading to windows 10 would change things) and if things aren't at the same timing it can cause errors.
I was wondering if someone could help me choose the right RAM as I don't want to waste money on ram and not have it work. and as a bonus if someone could confirm that I could take the stock xps 8300 2gb ram sticks and just stick two of them in the xps 8500 (which currently has 2 4gb sticks in it) and it will be okay that would be great as if I could upgrade the ram in both of my computers in one go that would be super awesome.
thanks.
so I am not an expert at ram but want to upgrade my ram in my machine as it's constantly in 60%+ usage because I run a lot of background programs (steam, RSS feed, Outlook, browser ect) even though I have 8gb in it.
I want to upgrade to 16gb, as that should solve my ram issue I have from time to time when I am playing games (I mean I can close all my background apps and it's fine but I would rather not need to)
I have a dell xps 8300, from this thread it seems that my computer has 4 x 2GB DDR3 PC3-10600 1333MHz at a 9-9-9-24 timing.
I am currently looking at either this or this or this or this
I've read that my ram runs at 1333 but if i stick some of this 1600 in there that it should just set itself to 1333 and run fine.
I have also read that it's important that the timing is the same if I want to just leave some of the old 2gb in there to make it go to 20gb of ram, but that there isn't much point unless I upgrade windows as on premium I am locked to 16gb anyways (not sure if upgrading to windows 10 would change things) and if things aren't at the same timing it can cause errors.
I was wondering if someone could help me choose the right RAM as I don't want to waste money on ram and not have it work. and as a bonus if someone could confirm that I could take the stock xps 8300 2gb ram sticks and just stick two of them in the xps 8500 (which currently has 2 4gb sticks in it) and it will be okay that would be great as if I could upgrade the ram in both of my computers in one go that would be super awesome.
thanks.
D
Deleted member 1235
Unconfirmed Member
just block the person?
https://www.whatsapp.com/faq/en/android/21080506
edit @zulux are you sure you need more RAM? windows using 60% of your ram for open stuff isnt bD. you have 8GB of Ram so it should be being used.... otherwise it is wasted. RAM is expensive and likely 8-16 wont deliver a performance boost you expect. are you sure you need it?
there are ram checking tools, kingston website cAn install a small plugin and detect and recommend the correct stick to buy for your hardware.
crucial will scan as well
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/systemscanner
I'm noticeably bogging down at times in games unless I kill some background apps (especially chrome, chrome is such a ram whore ><
it's not an absolute must but something that would be nice.I checked the crucial scan before coming to this thread but they don't want to recommend anything over a 4gb card even though I can find plenty of people who put 8gb cards in their xps 8300.
I also think I might have some hidden program eating a decent chunk of ram as well though as through the Resource Manager im only seeing 1500mb free while adding up all my committed ram only adds up to around 4000mb which is a decent chunk that I am not sure what the ram is being used for.
ill check out the kingston website though.
edit: it seems kingston comes back with only one entry KTD-XPS730BS/4G which I suppose 4 of those would get me to 16gb, just two might be enough though (if I can match with my other ram), it's not like I need a ton more ram, really just another gig or two should be fine when playing games as I am hitting 90% or so of my ram before slow down and what not shows up.
I'm noticeably bogging down at times in games unless I kill some background apps (especially chrome, chrome is such a ram whore ><
I checked the crucial scan before coming to this thread but they don't want to recommend anything over a 4gb card even though I can find plenty of people who put 8gb cards in their xps 8300.
I also think I might have some hidden program eating a decent chunk of ram as well though as through the Resource Manager im only seeing 1500mb free while adding up all my committed ram only adds up to around 4000mb which is a decent chunk that I am not sure what the ram is being used for.
ill check out the kingston website though.
edit: it seems kingston comes back with only one entry KTD-XPS730BS/4G which I suppose 4 of those would get me to 16gb, just two might be enough though (if I can match with my other ram), it's not like I need a ton more ram, really just another gig or two should be fine when playing games as I am hitting 90% or so of my ram before slow down and what not shows up.
In the memory tab of resource monitor how much memory shows up as Hardware Reserved in the graph?
You may also want to try downloading and running Process Explorer. Once open file > show details for all users, then sort by private bytes and then add up your total and see if you can find those hidden program(s).
as I wake up and have a single game (plus background programs running)
is what it looks like. I will look into that program though.
edit: only one I found was Akamai NetSession Interface, which freed up about 500mb of ram when I got rid of it. Looking at this stuff it looks like Chrome is just an even bigger ram whore than I originally thought ><;
Kill Your Masters
Member
So I am getting a bit fucked by Realtek right now.
Windows 10 updated the stock driver for Audio to Realtek drivers. Problem I have with that is that in playback devices, I dont see headphones as sound option anymore. Sound is fine but I usually disable the laptop speakers and the headphones still work, as I had previously two devices/icons listed there.
With realtek its just one device.
But now comes the fuckery: removing the realtek shit was a pain in the ass, but I managed it somehow (kept coming back at each restart). The problem now is I dont have any sound over the headphone jack...only if I install realtek drivers, which pretty much are shit for my system now. Anyone has any idea what I could do?
No system redtore points.
Deleted all audio drivers, rolled back, disabled automatic driver install etc.
Oh and fuck realtek.
Windows 10 updated the stock driver for Audio to Realtek drivers. Problem I have with that is that in playback devices, I dont see headphones as sound option anymore. Sound is fine but I usually disable the laptop speakers and the headphones still work, as I had previously two devices/icons listed there.
With realtek its just one device.
But now comes the fuckery: removing the realtek shit was a pain in the ass, but I managed it somehow (kept coming back at each restart). The problem now is I dont have any sound over the headphone jack...only if I install realtek drivers, which pretty much are shit for my system now. Anyone has any idea what I could do?
No system redtore points.
Deleted all audio drivers, rolled back, disabled automatic driver install etc.
Oh and fuck realtek.
Kill Your Masters
Member
Basically apart from volume adjustments there is nothing there.
What really troubles me is that rolling the driver back vreaks my headphpne jack after it worked normally before.
Edit: well now I just rolled the realtek ones back again, it works suddenly (uh thanks windows ninjas?), and somehow managed to hide the realtek update.
What really troubles me is that rolling the driver back vreaks my headphpne jack after it worked normally before.
Edit: well now I just rolled the realtek ones back again, it works suddenly (uh thanks windows ninjas?), and somehow managed to hide the realtek update.
Kill Your Masters
Member
Yeah I have but I have a gimped version it seems, only the volume stuff and virtualisation is visible as option...
And only one tab. It looks like that but with a lot less options. Anyway it seems to work for now, hopefully the next restart wont force them upon me again.
And only one tab. It looks like that but with a lot less options. Anyway it seems to work for now, hopefully the next restart wont force them upon me again.
Facism
Member
alright there fellas, got a problem that needs some help.
My GPU fan doesn't spin anymore. Well, it spins for half a second at bootup and then stops, occasionally ticking every so often like it's starting up. GPU-Z shows "fan speed %" as 32, but fan RPM is 0. Manually adjusting fan speed in afterburner does nothing.
I'm assuming the fan is fucked and needs replacing. Are there any tests i could do, barring putting it in another computer, to confirm? It still works, as i'm using the computer now, but it'll crash hard if i run any game as the temps will rocket.
I'm using a Palit GTX 660 GTX (not Ti version) and i have no idea where to start looking for replacement coolers and even if they'll fit.
Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
My GPU fan doesn't spin anymore. Well, it spins for half a second at bootup and then stops, occasionally ticking every so often like it's starting up. GPU-Z shows "fan speed %" as 32, but fan RPM is 0. Manually adjusting fan speed in afterburner does nothing.
I'm assuming the fan is fucked and needs replacing. Are there any tests i could do, barring putting it in another computer, to confirm? It still works, as i'm using the computer now, but it'll crash hard if i run any game as the temps will rocket.
I'm using a Palit GTX 660 GTX (not Ti version) and i have no idea where to start looking for replacement coolers and even if they'll fit.
Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
Spladam
Member
You are not alone, it seems that make and model has had some issue with that, Palit is known as PNY in North America, they also produce GPUs under the Gainward brand.
Yes, your fan has most likely locked some bearings and needs to be replaced, but I'll tell you it's not very cost effective.
That fact that you're monitoring software still thinks it's turning is fishy, if you've updated the driver recently you might want to roll your driver back to the previous and see if that changes things (it's a long shot), but be sure you use this to clean the driver that is installed out of your system.
First you want to try to contact the customer support for your GPU and check if it's still under warranty (if you registered it for a warranty).
Aftermarket coolers for your GPU will cost you $30 to $80 US, what you're looking for are something like these:
http://www.arctic.ac/us_en/accelero-mono-plus.html
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...=scplp841871&gclid=CPWi55SYmMgCFZWJaQodiZIDvQ
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186096
Coolers are expensive, and it might be to your advantage to just save for a new GPU, as you can find R9 270X and R9 280 and 280X for cheap now. You can get the R9 280 for $150 at many online electronic outlets.
If you do get an aftermarket cooler, be sure to read the compatibility list, but most are currently compatible with your GPU. They can be a pain to install as well.
If you consult this list, many of the GPUs above yours (more powerful) can be purchased in the $150 range and cheaper if you look hard.
Sigh, have a problem with Trojans/Spyware. Last time I ever use JDownloader (I was downloading some Fan Edits). This one supersedes the Google search in Chrome with Yahoo. If I open a new tab it default to a Yahoo search and even if I use Google to search, the instant I click on a link it opens a new tab in Yahoo.
I went into Chrome's settings and disabled any adware/spyware extensions and set the search to Google by default. Didn't do anything.
Ran AVG (free trial) and it claimed to have found the errors and deleted them but problem persists.
Trying AVG PC Tuneup to see if that will do anything.
Ran TDSKiller and that found nothing.
Going to try ADWCleaner and Malware Bites later.
Damn, why can't FanEdits just be uploaded to torrents like everything else?
I went into Chrome's settings and disabled any adware/spyware extensions and set the search to Google by default. Didn't do anything.
Ran AVG (free trial) and it claimed to have found the errors and deleted them but problem persists.
Trying AVG PC Tuneup to see if that will do anything.
Ran TDSKiller and that found nothing.
Going to try ADWCleaner and Malware Bites later.
Damn, why can't FanEdits just be uploaded to torrents like everything else?
Spladam
Member
Try this: RogueKiller. I use it at work, it's a powerful tool, just be careful what you tell it to clean.
Use if from a flashdrive.
Sometimes av/malware scanners will ignore semi-legitimate software that overrides vpn/search settings check your add/remove programs for any new software that you don't recognize. Look for a program like search protect or pretty much anything from lavasoft, crap that install themselves along with programs that you have to specifically opt out of are notorious for problems like this.
Uninstalled anything that was installed yesterday including Jdownloader (and to add insult to injury, the Prometheus Fan Edit I was downloading just sputtered out at 98.2% and refused to finish downloading for the entire day and still isn't downloading). Ran Roguekiller a 2nd time and that still didn't do it. Thinking of uninstalling Chrome, running Roguekiller again, then re-installing Chrome.
Schrade
Member
Akamai Netsession is a downloader for many MMOs and such. If you don't uninstall it, it runs in the background and is basically a file sharing program like BitTorrent.
Also if your using avg make sure the pup options are checked off as well
https://support.avg.com/SupportArticleView?l=en_US&urlname=What-is-Potentially-Unwanted-Program-PUP
is the thing that doing it called safe search or something like that?
as my wife's computer had that and it was a pain to remove. Ended up using a program called spyhunter to get it done.
Spladam
Member
Let this be a lesson to never NEVER install 3rd party downloaders. Just skip the file or search for a mirror. In addition, always carefully read each step of any free software's installer (you probably know this one) as they get real sneaky with the check boxes and the installation of browser home page and search apps.
From JDownloaders wiki page:
It appears Jdownloader will pass most virus scans, refer to these steps to remove it:
http://malwarefixes.com/remove-jdownloader-malware-removal/
Next time, copy the file name and search the net for it, there is almost always a mirror somewhere. It appears you'll just have to reset Chrome to factory default after you remove the Jdownloader components.
Don't appreciate the condescending tone. Not my fault that Fan Editors don't upload their stuff to public trackers and flat out tell you to use Jdownloader. And I went out of my way to look up the Fan Edits and found nothing. Plus when I installed Jdownloader I said no to downloading their spyware. Fuck me for believing that the program was legit.
Followed all of the little steps in the page you linked to. Didn't do anything. I'll try to re-run them after restarting but first I'm going to try SpyHunter.
I haven't had issues with jdownloader personally, aside from a nasty memory leak in jdownloader2 which occurs if I leave it open for more than 24 hours >.> But I wouldn't be surprised if some of the adware/spyware I find on my computer from time to time is from it.
I do want to make clear that the spyhunter I was talking about was enigmasoftware's spyhunter 4.
looks like
for me.
I don't remember all of the programs I tried trying to get rid of safe search or whatever it was called, I know I went through all of the free ones such as spybot and adaware, and a couple other programs, and even went in and deleted every file I could find for it, and deleted stuff from the registry, but that one finally snagged it. I hope it works for you as while the safe search wasn't the worst thing in the world it was still annoying.
edit:
heh, glad that you brought that up, I had run a scan recently but decided since i had it opened I might as well do it again, turns out I had gotten hit by "downloadware"
Facism
Member
cheers mate.
I took out an old broken gtx 260 and ripped the fan out of it. I connected it up to the 660gtx, powered it etc and the fan runs. some good news!
I'me toying with the idea of getting an 80mm fan and a pwm >mini connector, but i'm not sure if there'll be a problem with ampage. I can also find actual GPU fans that have the right ratings and would be mountable on the gpu with some minor DIY.
Mistake
Member
So I got a 4th gen ipod from a friend and it just has one thing that annoys me on ios 6. Sound effects and general volume are separate, which makes using something like wechat a real pain. Notifications for wechat are sound effects, but listening to voice messages are general. Is there any tweak in cydia, or something I don't know about to make it one again like ios 5? I want the global volume back.
I don't know if this is an ios 9 problem but I've never had this problem before the other day. I was using imessage with someone and it wasn't sending so I pressed "send as text message". Since that time, everything I'm sending is sent as a text message no matter what. I tried resetting my network settings, deleting the text thread and starting a new one, restoring a backup on my phone, resetting my phone, you name it. I tried this, and this, and this, all to no avail. It's frustrating beyond belief.
Spladam
Member
Good fix for your problem dude, most GPU fans share the same ratings, I like your DIY approach, it's what I would do.
Spladam
Member
My apologies, was not trying to be condescending, most of us have been in the same situation at one point or another. Hope you get this sorted out, you're definitely up against some clever adware.
The Omega Man
Member
Dear IT GAF I seek your knowledge to try to solve a weird issue at work.
There is a computer at work that the second it connects to our network, our emails stop working. Basically or server bans our IP address when this computer connects.
I have called our server provider and they said that they removed the ban from our IP address from the cphulk (shared server we don't have access to WHM only cpanel) and have white listed said IP address. And it worked fine until I connected the specific computer in question to our network and in a minute or two our emails are down again.
All our computers are mac, I checked the network and there is no ip address conflicts in the router.
I called again and they said that there's no more ban in the ip and that it has to be on our end, but I am pretty sure that it has to be server side.
- is there any other part of the server that might be blocking my IP some firewall beside the cphulk that I can tell them to check?
- also, what in the world can a simple laptop (macBook Pro) be doing that is getting us banned from our server the second it connects?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
There is a computer at work that the second it connects to our network, our emails stop working. Basically or server bans our IP address when this computer connects.
I have called our server provider and they said that they removed the ban from our IP address from the cphulk (shared server we don't have access to WHM only cpanel) and have white listed said IP address. And it worked fine until I connected the specific computer in question to our network and in a minute or two our emails are down again.
All our computers are mac, I checked the network and there is no ip address conflicts in the router.
I called again and they said that there's no more ban in the ip and that it has to be on our end, but I am pretty sure that it has to be server side.
- is there any other part of the server that might be blocking my IP some firewall beside the cphulk that I can tell them to check?
- also, what in the world can a simple laptop (macBook Pro) be doing that is getting us banned from our server the second it connects?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Seraph_Nicholas
Member
Super quick question, what's the best windows utility to burn DVDs for play on a standard DVD player?
Hi. Me again.
My PC BSOD again (i've posted in here a few times with the same problem, but only had a small dump file) but this time i have the complete memory dump file.
If one of you fine people could look at, and tell me what's wrong i would really appreciate it.
My specs
Here are my specs.
CPU: i7 4770K oc'd 4.1mhz @1.151v.
Motherboard: gigabyte sniper M5.
Ram: Corsair platinum 1866mhz 1.5v.
GPU: GTX TITAN 6GB.
Soundcard: Asus xonar D2X. (using 3rd part uni xonar drivers)
OS: Windows 10 home 64 bit.
SSD: Corsair neutron 128GB. (for my OS)
HDD: Samsung 3TB 7200RPM.
My PC BSOD again (i've posted in here a few times with the same problem, but only had a small dump file) but this time i have the complete memory dump file.
If one of you fine people could look at, and tell me what's wrong i would really appreciate it.
My specs
Here are my specs.
CPU: i7 4770K oc'd 4.1mhz @1.151v.
Motherboard: gigabyte sniper M5.
Ram: Corsair platinum 1866mhz 1.5v.
GPU: GTX TITAN 6GB.
Soundcard: Asus xonar D2X. (using 3rd part uni xonar drivers)
OS: Windows 10 home 64 bit.
SSD: Corsair neutron 128GB. (for my OS)
HDD: Samsung 3TB 7200RPM.
eddie4
Genuinely Generous
Seraph_Nicholas
Member
Awesome, thanks!
http://m.neogaf.com/showpost.php?p=173742471
Just wanted to say that I upgraded to Windows 10 and clean installed it and everything's fine now (barring a network driver BSOD that I've resolved).
It could have been a virus or driver issue, but I've never seen either of those result in a violent crash and boot loop. Guess I got a lot to learn.
Just wanted to say that I upgraded to Windows 10 and clean installed it and everything's fine now (barring a network driver BSOD that I've resolved).
It could have been a virus or driver issue, but I've never seen either of those result in a violent crash and boot loop. Guess I got a lot to learn.
Hi, sorry if this has been asked before. I was browsing some pictures in a SD card through an SD card reader on a macbook, but suddenly the drive was disconnected.
Then, I absent-mindedly pulled it off and reconnected it in hope that the drive gets connected again but as soon as I open the drive it shows as empty.
To make things worse, when I connected the card to a windows laptop the first thing I did was to choose "repair drive" when the fix dialog popped up.
I've tried to recover files with Recuva and Rest2514.exe but to no avail. The best I got was that I recoverd about 300 files (from about 4000) and all of them were zero filled files (I saw them with XVI32 and there were only zeros in the contents of the files).
Am I screwed? Are all the pictures really "zeroed" in the SD card?
I hope you can bring me some ray of hope.
Greets!
Thanks in advance!
Then, I absent-mindedly pulled it off and reconnected it in hope that the drive gets connected again but as soon as I open the drive it shows as empty.
To make things worse, when I connected the card to a windows laptop the first thing I did was to choose "repair drive" when the fix dialog popped up.
I've tried to recover files with Recuva and Rest2514.exe but to no avail. The best I got was that I recoverd about 300 files (from about 4000) and all of them were zero filled files (I saw them with XVI32 and there were only zeros in the contents of the files).
Am I screwed? Are all the pictures really "zeroed" in the SD card?
I hope you can bring me some ray of hope.
Greets!
Thanks in advance!