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[Yukiari]

I've been trying to fix this throughout the whole week and I've had no success. I've tried editing the registry and running a few different commands and it still goes right back to the error and I have to wait for the laptop to cycle off and on repeatedly until the changes are made and i can access the desktop again. I really want to fix this without having to restore my computer if possible.

 

[Consul]

Here's one for you TechSupportGAF, if any of you would be willing to help me out.

I've got a HP Chromebook model number 14-q050na with an Atheros AR5B22. My cousin brought it round for me to fix yesterday. She reported that the wifi had randomly stopped working and in trying to fix it powerwashed the device. It's now stuck on the initial welcome setup screen where it asks you to select language, keyboard and network, but since the wifi is not working its stuck there. I put the device into recovery mode and recovered the device using recovery installation media but unfortunately i'm back to where I began. No networks are detected and "WiFi is turned off".

What do you think the best course of action is? I initially suspected it to be a software issue with network drivers or something but after recovering it I'm left thinking the internal network card actually broke and needs replacing? I've never actually experienced that before so I'm skeptical.

 

[RS4-]

Win 7 would do the same thing to me if my second monitor used a converter on the output, the NVIDIA "rigorous display detection" of course just frequently updates the detection, this may or may not be improved in the near future so you don't have to use it, but there is also the Winkey + P hotkey that brings up the quick multi monitor selection, and when I would bring my second display back up with that in the past, I would have no more problems for the rest of the session. Can't tell you why.

Updated my Nvidia drivers, the issue still persists where it just isn't detected when I actually boot into windows. Sometimes it'll show up, but more often than not, I have to do the rigorous display detection thing lol.

I don't think it's a cable problem either, or else I wouldn't even see my second display at all when I'm booting up.

But I'll test that anyway.

 

[Lionel Mandrake]

I'm trying to resolve this issue with Google and stuff, but I figured I may as well throw it out here.

I finally got some time to play the last Life is Strange, only to find the game running like absolute garbage, even at the lowest settings, despite having been able to play previous episodes at their highest with no problems. It's pretty much unplayable. Like 2 FPS. I booted up Arkham City, just because it was installed and I played it not too long ago, and I can't even navigate the start menu-- with the menu buttons taking over 5 seconds to register a press.

I don't think I've played any PC games since I upgraded to Windows 10 (From Windows 7). So, I would assume that's the cause. My GPU appears to be up-to-date driver-wise (AMD Radeon 7970 HD) and I fiddled about with some of the recommendations on Google, but so far, nothing has changed.

 

[opticalmace]

I'm trying to resolve this issue with Google and stuff, but I figured I may as well throw it out here.

I finally got some time to play the last Life is Strange, only to find the game running like absolute garbage, even at the lowest settings, despite having been able to play previous episodes at their highest with no problems. It's pretty much unplayable. Like 2 FPS. I booted up Arkham City, just because it was installed and I played it not too long ago, and I can't even navigate the start menu-- with the menu buttons taking over 5 seconds to register a press.

I don't think I've played any PC games since I upgraded to Windows 10. So, I would assume that's the cause. My GPU appears to be up-to-date driver-wise (AMD Radeon 7970 HD) and I fiddled about with some of the recommendations on Google, but so far, nothing has changed.

I would first try a clean driver install. Make sure you get rid of the old one thoroughly (try looking up Display Driver Uninstaller -- I think that's the name). And then see who else is having the same problem on Windows 10 with your video card. I'm sure you're not the only one.

But yeah, it's most likely a driver issue..

 

[Lionel Mandrake]

I would first try a clean driver install. Make sure you get rid of the old one thoroughly (try looking up Display Driver Uninstaller -- I think that's the name). And then see who else is having the same problem on Windows 10 with your video card. I'm sure you're not the only one.

But yeah, it's most likely a driver issue..

So I downloaded Display Driver Uninstaller. I extracted the file and tried to run it, to be prompted with a "It's recommended that you start in safe mode. Restart into safe mode?" I clicked yes and now my monitor isn't displaying anything. No splash screen or anything. Monitor says its not getting an hdmi signal.

: /

 

[Lionel Mandrake]

Anyone got any ideas? Because using my phone sucks.

 

[Consul]

So I downloaded Display Driver Uninstaller. I extracted the file and tried to run it, to be prompted with a "It's recommended that you start in safe mode. Restart into safe mode?" I clicked yes and now my monitor isn't displaying anything. No splash screen or anything. Monitor says its not getting an hdmi signal.

: /

Damn that's not good. Have you got an onboard video card with a spare graphics port on the motherboard? If so try using that for now to fix your driver issues. Also if you have a spare PCI-e x16 slot try reseating the graphics card in a different slot. It should have basic functionality even without the drivers installed so this is disconcerting.

 

[Lionel Mandrake]

Edit: So, I'm a goddamn moron.

I figured out the initial reason why everything was being fucky-- I had recently moved my PC, and when I did I replugged the HDMI slot into the motherboard default instead of my GPU. I fixed that, redownloaded drivers, now everything works fine.

 

[TyrantGuardian]

Argh, I've been getting a crapton of BSODs lately. My PC has been stable aside from the occasional voltage overclock-related crash for about 3 years now, but for whatever reason it just went completely haywire a few weeks ago.

-snip-

So, I installed my new WD Red drive and everything was working fine and dandy aside from one seemingly rogue bsod right after installing it and removing the old WD Black drive. The system ran stable for about 6 days but now the bsods are happening again. I'm at my wit's end here. The only thing left I can imagine would be a borked mobo/cpu or psu, but that seems very unlikely. Any suggestions before I just give up on this and build a new pc from scratch?

 

[Kilrogg]

Edit: So, I'm a goddamn moron.

I figured out the initial reason why everything was being fucky-- I had recently moved my PC, and when I did I replugged the HDMI slot into the motherboard default instead of my GPU. I fixed that, redownloaded drivers, now everything works fine.

In fairness to you, it's ridiculous that you'd have to worry about plugging an HDMI cable into the "right" HDMI port. If it's an HDMI port, it should work, period.

 

[haveheart]

Hey guys,

I'm not sure if this is the right place but I'm pretty desperately looking for help. If this is the wrong thread or if I should just open a new one, just delete or move this

Story first:

I've been assuming that the HDMI ports of my old Toshiba TV were defective. For about two years I couldn't manage to get a connection between my PC and my Toshiba via HDMI working. The weird thing is, it worked before and it worked for a long time (with a 5850 and with a 660). I was assuming I somehow broke the HDMI ports of the TV, dunno exactly how. That's why I sold the TV about a year ago.

Now I got myself a Sony KDL-40W705C. I thought with a new TV I wouldn't have any problems like that. Well, I have and I have no idea what the exact problem is.

Rig (WIN7 64bit):

• Phenom II X4 955, not oc
• 8 gig Ram
• 128GB SSD and 1 TB Samsung
• Gigabyte GTX 660oc 2GB
• on a ASUS M4A79T Deluxe, no onboard graphics etc (really old board)

Setups (that obviously didn't work): PC --> TV

• HDMI --> TV. No signal, all I get is a black screen. Neither the PC nor the TV does anything, no ba-dump sound, no hand-shake is happening, as if I never connected them. both the nvidia control panel and the windows display properties/monitor setting do not show a second display.

• DPtoHDMI adapter ---> HDMI ---> TV: exact same thing.

Now based on these problem I was assuming that I was maybe wrong all over thinking that it might be the HDMI and DP port of the PC/660 that are not working. So I tried connecting my PC monitor (LG 24GM77) via those ports.

Setups: PC --> PC monitor

• HDMI --> HDMI in of PC monitor: no signal, nothing.

• DPtoHDMI adapter --> HDMI --> HDMI in of PC monitor: works. Got a picture (see pics).

So, it seems that the HDMI port of my 660 is not working. That's a shame but as long as the DP works I still a have an option to connect a second display and I'm fine with that. Nevertheless, connecting the TV via the DPtoHDMI adapter and an HDMI cable does not work.

So after ruling out that all ports a broken, DP should really be the way to go. But as you can see in the pics, with the TV connected via DP I have zero options doing anything. It just doesn't get detected, no hand-shake (the Sony TV and my laptop work perfectly fine together btw, handshake took merely a second).

Things I'm looking into right now:

• My registry is a mess (pic). There are many entries for old, unused displays (Toshiba TV "TSB106", "sony" is me trying stupid things, old LG monitor). Can't manage cleaning that up, deleting the entries does not work (I took ownership). I think the only way to get this sorted out – if this is the problem's solution – is a fresh wipe and re-install of WIN7. Maybe someone can help me with this point.

• Custom resolutions. I think this could also cause these problems. Afaik, I cannot create a custom resolution for a display that is not even detected. At least I can't. Also CRU needs a display to create a new resolution for. I know I can't run the TV on 120/144hz so I'm running on 60hz and 1920x1080 atm.
• The funny thing is, when I connect my PC monitor via DPtoHDMI the nvidia control panel shows that it is using a Ultra-HD, HD, SD resultion with 59hz (pic). This is still not a HDTV resolution but I think that that's pretty close to what I am actually looking for.

• TV: Maybe there something I need to do with the TV. I have no clue about TV settings (are there advanced menues?). But I guess it's simply PnP.

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I hope there is someone who can point me in the right direction. Thank you for reading

 

[Zepp Twofist]

You didn't say if you tried it, but reinstalling the nvidia drivers with the option for cleaning the previous drivers completely should be the fist thing you try.

If that doesn't work, you could try using an active DP->HDMI adapter instead of a passive one. They do cost more, but if you are getting a signal on the DP, then they should be able to convert that signal into proper HDMI. With a passive adapter, you are relying on your GFX card to output the correct signal, which it for some reason doesn't do.

All this being said, the issue you're having is a weird one and there might be a quirky workaround that I don't know about, but google didn't come up with anything useful for me.

 

[haveheart]

You didn't say if you tried it, but reinstalling the nvidia drivers with the option for cleaning the previous drivers completely should be the fist thing you try.

If that doesn't work, you could try using an active DP->HDMI adapter instead of a passive one. They do cost more, but if you are getting a signal on the DP, then they should be able to convert that signal into proper HDMI. With a passive adapter, you are relying on your GFX card to output the correct signal, which it for some reason doesn't do.

All this being said, the issue you're having is a weird one and there might be a quirky workaround that I don't know about, but google didn't come up with anything useful for me.

Thank you!

Reinstalling the driver as you said was indeed the first thing i tried.

I've read about active adapters but this cannot be the solution. I'm not going to pay 100.- for an adapter. I'd rather buy a new graphics card.

As you said, it seems weird to me too, because I do get a signal when my pc monitor is connected via the DP adapter. However, this doesn't work with the TV...

Update:

I did a fresh re-install of Windows 7. Some things changed. I hope this will give you some hints.

When I start up the PC with the TV via DPtoHDMI plugged in I can see the Windows start up animation on the TV. And on the TV only. The PC monitor stays black.

The log in screen, however, is then displayed on the PC monitor. the TV goes back to black. That's it.

I have no clue what's happing here. This is so weird.

Windows display settings show me this:

Changing the resolution, output, cloning etc. doesn't change anything. Either the TV gets no signal or both the TV and PC monitor get no signal..... halp

 

[Mozz-eyes]

Got some internet questions, gents. Please help.

Background:

I set up a company.

I set up google apps for work and registered a domain there. I have a working email address now etc.

I set up a wordpress account to make a company website and paid to map the domain but every time I link it to the domain and try to access it ( www.anjinglobal.com ) I get a 404 message.

I'm totally new to all this and I've got a feeling I haven't set up or connected something properly.

 

[RS4-]

halp

I've been having this issue for the past two weeks or so, nothing changed, other than my PC case.

And like you, I get the "broken" monitor to display during boot, but it disappears when the log in screen pops up.

So what I do, I just go to this screen: http://i.imgur.com/5jM4uZC.png which you posted:

- turn on the undetected tv -> click 'meine anzeige...' -> first option. I don't know what it is in deutsche, but its roughly 'display detection.'

That's how I get my secondary to work. I still don't know if its a cable issue or what. Just weird since I only switched cases.

 

[haveheart]

I've been having this issue for the past two weeks or so, nothing changed, other than my PC case.

And like you, I get the "broken" monitor to display during boot, but it disappears when the log in screen pops up.

So what I do, I just go to this screen: http://i.imgur.com/5jM4uZC.png which you posted:

- turn on the undetected tv -> click 'meine anzeige...' -> first option. I don't know what it is in deutsche, but its roughly 'display detection.'

That's how I get my secondary to work. I still don't know if its a cable issue or what. Just weird since I only switched cases.

Thank you! This didn't help me but I think I've found the problem.

As a matter of fact, graphics card outputs can be active or passive. Passive outputs (in my case the DP and HDMI port) don't send any signal until they are activated by an external source. It seems that TVs etc cannot do that.

The solution seems to be active adapters. They're a little bigger than passive adapters and cost around 40€.

As I don't want to spend this amount for an adapter my workaround is using the second DVI port. DVI ports are active and always work. On the downside, I can't use my TV speakers as DVI can't transmit audio.

I did a lot of research. Maybe some of the things I wrote are not completely correct. Neverthelss, I find it pretty inappropriate of card manufacturers to build in these ports and don't state that they're not chipset driven.

I don't know if this accounts for all nvidia cards, or only for my model (Gigabyte).

 

[Zepp Twofist]

I set up a wordpress account to make a company website and paid to map the domain but every time I link it to the domain and try to access it ( www.anjinglobal.com ) I get a 404 message.

I'm totally new to all this and I've got a feeling I haven't set up or connected something properly.

If I understand you correctly, you want the google domain to point to a blog hosted at wordpress.com?

In that case, you need to both have the correct DNS settings for your domain at google, and also set up (and pay for) the ability to map your domain to your wordpress site:
https://en.support.wordpress.com/map-existing-domain/

I can't tell you the exact way to do it on the google end of things since I have never used them to host domains, but their customer support should be able to help you if you can't figure it out.

As a matter of fact, graphics card outputs can be active or passive. Passive outputs (in my case the DP and HDMI port) don't send any signal until they are activated by an external source. It seems that TVs etc cannot do that.

This doesn't seem right. HDMI specc doesn't say anything about active or passive signals. This is a shot in the dark, but have you tried a different hdmi cable? It would fit with the used to work and doesn't work anymore part of it, and if you have been using the same cable for all of this, it might be your best bet.

 

[Zoidberg Jesus]

I bought a Gigabyte laptop that came in the mail today, it has Windows 10 and a 6 cell battery. I plugged it into a surge protector, which is plugged into the wall, and left it for about 4 hours before turning it on for the first time. The battery indicator in the task bar says it's 97% charged, and the status is "plugged in, not charging". It's been that way for a couple of hours now and after multiple restarts (from installing drivers). I tried uninstalling the Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery driver and scanning for hardware changes to reinstall it, as suggested on other websites, but no change. Any advice? I'll provide more information if necessary.

Also, how long should I wait before unplugging it and running off battery? I've heard before that the recommended time is 24 hours, but I wanted to take it with me to work tomorrow at 8am, which would be about 15 hours after plugging it in. What would you suggest? Thanks in advance.

 

[alternade]

I took the plunge last night and went from Windows 7 to 10. I like everything so far. Its a little slow but that might just be from migrating all my apps and files. The problem I have is that MPC-HC doesn't work anymore. I tried uninstalling it and reinstall, doesn't work. I'm trying to update my video cards drivers AMD Radeon HD6800 and it gets hung up on the AMD Catalyst manager install.

I'm at a loss. Can anyone help?

 

[That Dude John]

Did anyone ever figure out the nvlddmkm.sys BSOD issue on Lenovo laptops after upgrading to Win 10? I kinda just stopped playing games on it tbh.

 

[oxidax]

My PC has been acting up since yesterday.

I was playing MGSVand all of a sudden, I lost video. I tried turning my TV on and off several times but no luck. It happens every time I start a game or a benchmark. I stress tested the CPU and it doesn't crash, so I suspect its the GPU.

Anybody know how I could fix this? Do I have to RMA the GPU?

Swapped Mobo, SDD, GPU and im still having this issue.
Im about to swap the PSU but just in case that doesn't work, does anybody have any idea what it might be? This is so strange!

EDIT: The PSU was the issue.

 

[Bumblebeetuna]

Does anyone know why my router would refuse to load a certain website? Like, I can try on my PC, no dice. Ping fails 4/4 tries. I can try on my phone, nope. I can turn WiFi off, it loads right up. It's just a message board for a Madden league. I don't get it. I have logged into my router and looked for anything weird. Even lowered my router firewall to low security.. nothing.

It worked before, even just a couple days ago. But now nothing.

 

[Apt101]

Does anyone know why my router would refuse to load a certain website? Like, I can try on my PC, no dice. Ping fails 4/4 tries. I can try on my phone, nope. I can turn WiFi off, it loads right up. It's just a message board for a Madden league. I don't get it. I have logged into my router and looked for anything weird. Even lowered my router firewall to low security.. nothing.

It worked before, even just a couple days ago. But now nothing.

Windows? Start key + R to open a run dialog. Type in cmd and hit enter. Type is ipconfig /flushdns and hit enter. Then type nslookup followed by the name of the site, like nslookup neogaf.com. Does it return an IP address?

 

[oneran]

Does anyone know why my router would refuse to load a certain website? Like, I can try on my PC, no dice. Ping fails 4/4 tries. I can try on my phone, nope. I can turn WiFi off, it loads right up. It's just a message board for a Madden league. I don't get it. I have logged into my router and looked for anything weird. Even lowered my router firewall to low security.. nothing.

It worked before, even just a couple days ago. But now nothing.

Are you sure turning off the wi-fi makes the site load up or is it just the rebooting of the router (your gateway will typically reboot itself if you make significant changes).

Anyway, you may want to try using Google's Public DNS instead of your isp's and see if things improve.

 

[Bumblebeetuna]

Windows? Start key + R to open a run dialog. Type in cmd and hit enter. Type is ipconfig /flushdns and hit enter. Then type nslookup followed by the name of the site, like nslookup neogaf.com. Does it return an IP address?

Thanks, this has at least allowed me to ping the website. Yes, the nslookup returned an IP address. However I still can't get it to connect in the PC.

 

[Bumblebeetuna]

Are you sure turning off the wi-fi makes the site load up or is it just the rebooting of the router (your gateway will typically reboot itself if you make significant changes).

Anyway, you may want to try using Google's Public DNS instead of your isp's and see if things improve.

I'm on my phone right now. If I try to load the site on the phone via WiFi it just times out. If I turn WiFi off and go off my cellular data it loads fine.

 

[oneran]

I'm on my phone right now. If I try to load the site on the phone via WiFi it just times out. If I turn WiFi off and go off my cellular data it loads fine.

Sorry, I thought you meant you temporarily disabled the wi-fi on your router.

It does sound like a dns issue, if you ping the sites ip address directly does it go through?

 

[Apt101]

Thanks, this has at least allowed me to ping the website. Yes, the nslookup returned an IP address. However I still can't get it to connect in the PC.

I'm at a loss if it's happening on the PC and phone as well. I was thinking maybe it was a setting in your browser, problems stemming from a plug-in/add-on, or even blackholed in your hosts file - but those wouldn't be issues on your phone as well (well, likely not, unless you're using Chrome). Maybe try a different browser on the PC just to see what happens? Any kind of parental control options on the router?

 

[Bumblebeetuna]

There are parental control options on the router but nothing is set on it, no rules for any websites.

 

[darklin0]

Once in a while my computer seems to crash and I can't seem to find the root of the problem. When this does happen my monitor displays only one solid color: White, Brown, or Gray. Also the sound goes bad and gets stuck on the last second of sounds. The crash usually happens when I am either browsing the internet or editing files. I believe it has never happened while playing a game though, as far as my recollection goes.

I think it is either something to do with my motherboard or my graphics cards but I can't seem to find the issue through google searching.

Specs:

Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150
CPU: Intel Core i3-4160 3.6GHz Dual-Core
GPU: XFX Radeon R9 270X 2GB
RAM: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600

 

[BigMack]

A few weeks ago, I noticed I couldn't get any apps to update from the Google Play Store. Then Youtube quit working. I could browse videos and apps and read descriptions and comments. Just couldn't update/download apps or get videos to load and play.

But if I turned off wifi and used my 4g data or turned on a vpn, everything worked just fine.

I hooked my laptop up directly to my cable modem and youtube videos loaded up just fine. So I figured it was a linksys ea3500 router problem.

I ordered a new belkin n150 router. Before it got here on friday, google.com stopped loading on my phone. No other problems with any other service or site. Just google related stuff.

I got the new router setup and everything worked perfectly. Youtube vids loaded up and played just fine in the app, in a browser on my phone or laptop. It all worked great for a few days but tonight, the new router is now also not loading videos or updating apps unless I turn off the wifi or use a vpn.

So is this a google issue or my isp? I'm ready to call to them and pitch a fit but I need to know what to have them to check.

 

[Zepp Twofist]

I had a similar problem to this with one of the companies I support. The ISP had no idea what was going on, and it was only certain sites that would fail (facebook, google services), and it would usually work for a bit after restarting the modem. After trying everything else, it was eventually fixed by having the ISP replace the modem. I have no idea why it only happened to certain sites though.

 

[laserlaser]

My PC:

8.00 GB RAM
WINDOWS 7 64-bit- operating system
i5 2500K CPU @ 3.3 GHZ (4 CPUS)
GPU : amd radeon HD 6970
Graphics bus PCI 2.0 x16
Memory size 2048 MB GDDR5
Core Clock: 880 MHz
Memory Clock 1375
650W power supply

Issue: I think my card is dead. The comp. shut down on its own and is not displaying anything. I've cleaned the dust, made sure all the wires are plugged in correctly.

Questions: how do I figure out what graphics card is compatible with my mobo?
I bought a random card at BB to try it out and it only had one slot for power and didn't work.

 

[BigMack]

I had a similar problem to this with one of the companies I support. The ISP had no idea what was going on, and it was only certain sites that would fail (facebook, google services), and it would usually work for a bit after restarting the modem. After trying everything else, it was eventually fixed by having the ISP replace the modem. I have no idea why it only happened to certain sites though.

Hmm... I've tried literally every troubleshooting tip I came across. And only replacing the router fixed it. But just for a few days before it broke again. Guess I'll have to give my cable company a call then. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

[Majine]

I have an issue of the audio in my computer (to my in-ear earbuds) is too low. It's not inaudible, more than when I max every volume control, the audio level is still only medium-to-high-ish. Maxed out volume should be eardamaging high, and I don't like having this low roof.

I tried uninstalling the Realtek HD audio program, but it didn't help.

 

[Zepp Twofist]

Questions: how do I figure out what graphics card is compatible with my mobo?
I bought a random card at BB to try it out and it only had one slot for power and didn't work.

I don't think they sell graphics card that aren't compatible with your setup anymore. If it fits in the slot, you are pretty much good to go.

No picture on your screen can be any number of things other than the GFX card though. If your computer is not turning on at all (as in no fans spin) when you press the power button, then it is more likely to be the PSU or the motherboard. It's hard to tell without testing with other components, but no reaction at all (or a small tug at fans before shutting back down) is more likely to be the PSU.

 

[Foxyone]

I don't know why, but every hour or so on average my computer freezes for like 20 sec. Well, Google chrome freezes and won't let me do anything, although it will let me go to other tabs like Steam. When the freezing happens, my computer also briefly loses internet connection (enough to kick me out of online games sometimes). Any idea on what this may be?

Also, it's mostly limited to Counter Strike GO, but every like 5-10 min the game will have a nasty hitch where everything will briefly freeze and often get me killed because I can't do anything. It never happened on my laptop though, which is weird because the laptop is weaker than my desktop. Any idea on this?

 

[Omni]

Is there any reason why this would happen? I'm not running any intensive programs or anything. Laptop is just for web browsing. This occurs every few days it seems like. Slows the whole thing to a halt. Requires restart

I assume that I just don't have enough RAM. But when I restart and browse for a while, I'm barely using 50%, so I don't know why it would inflate so much when I don't do anything else.

 

[Megasoum]

Hey guys I have a weird Wifi issue with my Android Phone.

I'm not sure when it started exactly but I noticed recently that my WiFi is REALLLLY slow on my phone.

To give you an idea.

Speedtest on my PC: 65Mbps
Speedtest on my iPad: roughly 20Mbps
Speedtest on my Moto X Play (running on 5.1.1): 0.4Mbps average....

I tried rebooting the modem/router multiple times. Rebooted the phone a couple of times too. Tried forgetting the network and re-connecting. Tried disabling Wireless security on the router to test. Nothing fixed the issue. This is really annoying.

Anybody have any ideas? I tried google but couldn't really find anything that did it.

 

[decaf]

Hey Tech GAF!

I found an old 1TB WD Passport Drive and I'm looking to remove all its external bits so I can use it in my PS3.

The problem is... the USB chip is HUGE, and seems to be bolted on. How do I remove it without damaging the drive? Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

[Symphonia]

For some reason, YouTube now refuses to display 1080p60 videos on my Samsung Galaxy S5. I know the video in question is 1080p60 enabled as it displays and plays like that on my laptop and when I use YouTube on my phone via the desktop site, but the app itself just doesn't display '1080p60' on the quality selection menu. Is this an isolated incident or has anyone else run in to this?

 

[dity]

Hey everyone, I'm having a keyboard problem that's more of a minor annoyance than it is super serious.

My girlfriend uses a Surface Pro 3 with a little keyboard we got with Pokemon Typing Adventure:

The problem is that hash/sharp key to the left of the enter key. When pressed all it does it either \ or |. which is the same as the \| key to the right of the left-hand shift. Pressing shift and 3 results in # however (regular US-style keyboard).

Has anyone got any idea what input method in Windows matches that keyboard? I've tried both UK English and Irish input methods (both which use that keyboard layout) to no avail. The main language set is English (Australian), but I'm not sure if that matters much in regards to the keyboard input.

Can anyone help me out? I've been Googling for a while now to no avail.

 

[ElTopo]

Question regarding Ipad 2.

We have three Ipad 2's in the office and need to upgrade the OS from 5.0 to 9. But every time we try to update the OS it freezes. The pads are telling us that the USB cable is bad but we've tested and it works. We tried using the program reiboot but the pads don't do anything when the program is active. Not sure if the pads are covered under warranty or not. Any ideas guys? Thanks.

 

[ElTopo]

Can anyone be of assistance? I have an external drive (1TB Iomega) I bought maybe 4 years ago. And it's starting to make a loud clicking noise like a failed CD drive trying to read an image, the drive is pyhsically vibrating, but my system can't read it when connected.

I plan on using HDD Regenerator but with my machine not able to read the drive I fear that won't do anything.

 

[Samaritan]

Just built a new rig (these are the specs) but I'm having trouble getting my BIOS/UEFI to see my Samsung 850 EVO SSD.

It doesn't appear at all in the list of SATA devices in BIOS. I've changed which SATA port it's in to no avail and the SATA controller is set to AHCI. My SATA DVD drive shows up just fine, but not my SSD. The strangest part is the Windows 10 installer can see it, it just can't install to it because it says my BIOS doesn't recognize it.

So what the hell is going on? Is there a setting in my UEFI that I need to enable?

EDIT: Solved

 

[Layell]

So I've had some fun with booting my PC lately, sometimes it just boots to a black screen and cursor, and is then stuck there. If after a hundred times it does boot it takes quite a while to get up. I've tried deleting some hard drive space, anything I can do to fix this or anything I should do once I get it back up to ensure it stays up?

Windows 10
GA-Z97X-Gaming 3
i5-4690K CPU @ 3.50GHz
8 Gigs RAM
280

 

[MonorailCat]

I just bought a GTX970 and it's giving me troubles.

As soon as I install any Nvidia driver (tried three versions) the driver crashes constantly even in idle mode on the desktop. The PC freezes for a few seconds and then I get the message the driver kernel was recovered. A few seconds later it begins again. Sometimes it locks completely.

It works fine in safe mode.

For the life of me I can't figure out whats wrong.

Maybe my PSU is too weak? It's a quality 400W PSU. The thing is: The problems happen even in idle mode, which shouldn't be too demanding.
Right now I am running a overclocked 6870 in the machine, which works fine. So I doubt some other parts are defective.

Any help is appreciated.

CPU: Intel i5-3350
Mobo: AsRock B75M
8 GB Ram
Windows 10

 

[Samaritan]

Everything's going almost swimmingly with my new build, save for one very aggravating issue with my BIOS/UEFI. Hoping someone here will know what to do.

After installing Windows 10, restarting my PC has become an exercise in repetition. After shut down, when I boot my computer back up, more times than not (it's literally random) my computer will not boot into the BIOS/UEFI. My PC is very much on. The light and fans on my graphics card are on, the lights on my motherboard (more on that in a moment) are on, and all my case fans are spinning up. But nothing else.

Hitting my power/reset button does nothing, so I'm forced to hold down on the power button until my entire system shuts off. At this point, hitting the power button again does nothing. Nothing turns on whatsoever, not even a fan. I'm forced to turn off my PSU and turn it back on. At this point, turning my PC back on will result in it POSTing properly. Shutting it down again, either from the BIOS or from Windows will take you back to where we started: forced to turn off the PSU and back on.

Now, sometimes, not almost, but sometimes, when it tries to turn on, the lights and fans will come on, including the light on my motherboard. I disabled this in my BIOS' settings. When it boots properly, this light is off. But I know my computer won't boot into the BIOS because the motherboard light turns on.

I went ahead and braved updating my BIOS, hoping that would fix it, and nothing. I was on revision F3 of my BIOS/UEFI and am now running F5.

This feels like a power issue, except that I used this same PSU in my old build not less than three days ago with zero issues. I've got almost 400W of overhead according to PC Part Picker as well, and once I'm in the Windows environment I have zero issues with any of my components. Everything checks out in the BIOS too.

So what's going on?

Here are my specs:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card
Case Fan: Fractal Design GP14-BK 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan
Monitor: Acer XB240H ABPR 144Hz 24.0" Monitor

EDIT: Solved

2nd EDIT: Problem showed up again; not solved

 

[Samaritan]

Managed to capture a video of what happens when it doesn't boot. Major apologies for the vertical video, I didn't even think about it until after I had uploaded it:

https://youtu.be/ApkWYW5PWnA

EDIT: Solved

2nd EDIT: Problem showed up again; not solved