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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Symphonia

Banned
Is there anyone here on NeoGAF who has experience with Elgato products and, in particular, their Game Capture HD software? I've recorded some videos and they play as expected (1080p60) on desktop, but only plays in 720p on the YouTube app for Android. I use a Samsung Galaxy S5. I know the YouTube app and S5 allow 1080p60 as other videos play, just not mine - my videos play at 720p30.

https://youtu.be/927KpWbcW60

That's a video that was recorded and rendered in 1080p60, but only plays at 720p30 on my S5, but 1080p60 on desktop. Is it just me? If not, how do I fix it?
 

RS4-

Member
Hey Tech GAF!

I found an old 1TB WD Passport Drive and I'm looking to remove all its external bits so I can use it in my PS3.

The problem is... the USB chip is HUGE, and seems to be bolted on. How do I remove it without damaging the drive? Any advice greatly appreciated.

I believe that one is soldered on, like most of the WD externals unfortunately.

Can anyone be of assistance? I have an external drive (1TB Iomega) I bought maybe 4 years ago. And it's starting to make a loud clicking noise like a failed CD drive trying to read an image, the drive is pyhsically vibrating, but my system can't read it when connected.

I plan on using HDD Regenerator but with my machine not able to read the drive I fear that won't do anything.

Your drive is close to or pretty much dead. One of my HDDs just went through the same thing a few days ago. It's hitting a bad sector and sometimes it'll click once every few mins, into multiple clicks a minute until it gets worse.

At least that's what it sounds like. I got lucky that I managed to salvage the data over a few days when the drive was actually detected.

I should've expected this to happen eventually, as a few months ago, the drive would suddenly not appear until I did a few restarts and unplug/plug it back in. You could try that, trying to remount the external and hope it gets detected.
 

Kilrogg

paid requisite penance
I wish I could help out some of you guys, but it seems I'm always the one in need of help...

Anyway, Windows 10's LAN connection detection is acting up. Basically, my ethernet connection doesn't work anymore, and it turns out my computer has been creating all these redundant Ethernet connection. It used to do that when I first set up my connection back in January, but it hadn't since... until tonight, for whatever reason. As a result, I'm forced to use WiFi for now, as it just says "no internet" when I choose Ethernet.

W22Bw70.png

I mean WTF?
 

Ashhong

Member
So I've had some fun with booting my PC lately, sometimes it just boots to a black screen and cursor, and is then stuck there. If after a hundred times it does boot it takes quite a while to get up. I've tried deleting some hard drive space, anything I can do to fix this or anything I should do once I get it back up to ensure it stays up?

Windows 10
GA-Z97X-Gaming 3
i5-4690K CPU @ 3.50GHz
8 Gigs RAM
280

Sounds like a similar issue to what I just had. Have you tried booting with a Windows Install USB and running Startup Repair? I had to do that 3 times for it to fix mine. Something to do with the boot record or something
 

Kilrogg

paid requisite penance
I wish I could help out some of you guys, but it seems I'm always the one in need of help...

Anyway, Windows 10's LAN connection detection is acting up. Basically, my ethernet connection doesn't work anymore, and it turns out my computer has been creating all these redundant Ethernet connection. It used to do that when I first set up my connection back in January, but it hadn't since... until tonight, for whatever reason. As a result, I'm forced to use WiFi for now, as it just says "no internet" when I choose Ethernet.

W22Bw70.png


I mean WTF?

Anyone wanna help? Pretty please? :(
 

Fou-Lu

Member
Ever since I updated to Windows 10 my hard drive has had excrutiatingly slow read and write speeds (1MB/s bad). Hopefully the disk isn't just dying. Any thoughts on what might cause this and how I can troubleshoot it?
 
Mic doesn't get recognized from steam.
It works under device, I see my voice, but it won't work in steam or in-game.

If your running the NVIDIA beta drivers disable the stream option and your mic should work on steam again.
I had the same problem when i updated.
 

WanderingWind

Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
So, I fucked up and bought a nice laptop with a screen that is just too small. It's got a single HDMI port. To try to remedy my mistake, that port is now connected to a monitor. I would like to add a second monitor and then dock my laptop so that I use the two monitors as dual monitors. Obviously, I would need to add an external keyboard.

Is this possible? If so, what do I need to get (besides the other monitor).
 

kennah

Member
So, I fucked up and bought a nice laptop with a screen that is just too small. It's got a single HDMI port. To try to remedy my mistake, that port is now connected to a monitor. I would like to add a second monitor and then dock my laptop so that I use the two monitors as dual monitors. Obviously, I would need to add an external keyboard.

Is this possible? If so, what do I need to get (besides the other monitor).
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX50175

My boss has one of those and says it is excellent. There are also USB vga adaptors that would do what you need.
 

oneran

Member
Anyone wanna help? Pretty please? :(

Have you tried uninstalling and re-installing your Ethernet drivers? Also are there any hidden network adapters in device manager? (view > show hidden devices)

Do you have any vpn clients or security software installed?
 

Kilrogg

paid requisite penance
Have you tried uninstalling and re-installing your Ethernet drivers? Also are there any hidden network adapters in device manager? (view > show hidden devices)

Do you have any vpn clients or security software installed?

Oneran, my man! You saved me last time, hopefully you'll save me this time too!
No pressure.

No VPN client, and I'm using W10's security system (antivirus + firewall).

There are hidden devices, mainly my Blackberry (yes I'm using a Blackberry in this day and age) cause it's paired with my computer via WiFi.

This is embarrasingly noobish of me, but how do I got about reinstalling ethernet drivers? Should I find the latest motherboard drivers for my Mobo and install them? How do I know what Ethernet drivers I need?
 

oneran

Member
Oneran, my man! You saved me last time, hopefully you'll save me this time too!
No pressure.

No VPN client, and I'm using W10's security system (antivirus + firewall).

There are hidden devices, mainly my Blackberry (yes I'm using a Blackberry in this day and age) cause it's paired with my computer via WiFi.

This is embarrasingly noobish of me, but how do I got about reinstalling ethernet drivers? Should I find the latest motherboard drivers for my Mobo and install them? How do I know what Ethernet drivers I need?

There should be a LAN section under the drivers for your board but every manufactures' site is different.
 

Kilrogg

paid requisite penance
There should be a LAN section under the drivers for your board but every manufactures' site is different.

Looks like I managed to fix it that way. ASRock's site is so crappy it's a miracle I found and downloaded the right drivers. Oneran, you're the One man (or woman, who knows).
 

Ashhong

Member
Question, I just installed a new SSD and installed Windows. The bios was set as IDE at the time. I installed a Microsoft hotfix which allowed me to change my bios setting to AHCI. Samsung magician says it is connected via AHCI, however in the bios and if I choose boot menu, it says IDE next to my drives. Is this normal?
 
Issue: Until recently I had truly free, unlimited wifi. Free to me anyway; allow me to explain. At my last job I had a company-provided iPad (4th gen, with 4G data on Verizon). As a senior'ish member of the company's tech team, they gave me the iPad and they covered the bill for the data. By the end of my time there I was streaming something for hours every day. Adhering to the company's own rules, I used the iPad tether for many work from home days or travel days. This was truly umlimited data for me, and all of it was on their dime.

Question: What is the best posible device/data/plan matrix for having that again? I know I'll need to pay for it, but what is my best (read: cheapest) option for unlimited streaming on any & all devices. If it helps to think of it as unlimited data on tethered devices, that's fine too. I'd be willing to make a lot of sacrifices to have it - even if it means to switch cell carriers, or buy a tablet and add it to the plan, or even accept the Amazon Kindle HD Fire policy (if yoy don't know what I mean, it's that Amazon's tabs are decent but to get that, you see a lot of ads to help offset the cost. It's strangely worth it). Basically I would love to hear from any data - heavy people about bow they are going about this.

TL;DR: I had unlimited data (and tethering of any device) on a company iPad 4th Gen (32gb, wifi, Verizon4GLTE, A2OGM - you name it, it had it). I had to leave the company and that sweet scenario recently. I very much miss that arrangement. I miss a lot about that job but losing unlImited data + terhering hurt bad. It has been a really tough one to get over.

Any thoughts from anyone? Thank you in advance!
TS
 
I got a Gigabyte P55K laptop from NewEgg a few weeks ago. I started noticing recently that when I plug in my earbuds into the headphone jack, there is a high pitched buzzing sound that I don't usually hear from my earbuds. I bought a different brand of earbuds, same thing.

Things I've tried

unplugging the power cord
unplugging any USB devices
closing the lid to turn off the screen
updating the Realtek HD Audio Driver
disabling the Realtek HD Audio Driver
disabling Dolby Digital Plus
disabling the laptop's built-in microphone
Changing the sound quality level in properties between CD, DVD, and studio quality
updating the BIOS

What should I try next? I'll provide more information if needed.
 

Ashhong

Member
Are you plugging it into the headphone jack in the back of the motherboard? How about if you use the headphone jack on the front panel of your PC?
 

ScOULaris

Member
I wish I could help out some of you guys, but it seems I'm always the one in need of help...

Anyway, Windows 10's LAN connection detection is acting up. Basically, my ethernet connection doesn't work anymore, and it turns out my computer has been creating all these redundant Ethernet connection. It used to do that when I first set up my connection back in January, but it hadn't since... until tonight, for whatever reason. As a result, I'm forced to use WiFi for now, as it just says "no internet" when I choose Ethernet.



I mean WTF?
Yep. This exact same thing happened to me just last night after upgrading to the latest build of Windows 10. After a bunch of trial and error related to driver installations, the fix just ended up being going to Device Manager and uninstalling EVERYTHING under Network Adapters. After that I scanned for hardware changes and it detected my network card and connectivity was reinstated. Not sure what in the latest update causes all of those virtual network adapters to be created, but it sure was annoying trying to fix this issue without an internet connection.
 

oneran

Member
I got a Gigabyte P55K laptop from NewEgg a few weeks ago. I started noticing recently that when I plug in my earbuds into the headphone jack, there is a high pitched buzzing sound that I don't usually hear from my earbuds. I bought a different brand of earbuds, same thing.

Things I've tried

unplugging the power cord
unplugging any USB devices
closing the lid to turn off the screen
updating the Realtek HD Audio Driver
disabling the Realtek HD Audio Driver
disabling Dolby Digital Plus
disabling the laptop's built-in microphone
Changing the sound quality level in properties between CD, DVD, and studio quality
updating the BIOS

What should I try next? I'll provide more information if needed.

Have you tried lowering the sound output in windows to 75%? Once you do check if the noise is still there or just less audible.

You may want to try blowing out the headphone jack with some compressed air to to ensure it's free from any debris.

Have you tried plugging in a pair of actual speakers (nothing fancy any $10 pair/existing pair should do) and checking if the noise is still there?

Check the Realtek HD control panel if you have one (it should be in your system tray) ensure the speaker configuration is set to headphone or 2/2.1.

But, it sounds as if you covered most of the bases here if nothing else works you may want to consider returning/rma'ing the laptop.

Hope that helps!
 
I had a freeze while playing a game and so I rebooted only to find I can no longer load the OS. It'll freeze up and boot me back the bios with "Windows 7 has experienced critical failure" and only give m the option to try again, or go into recovery mode.

http://imgur.com/a/CpGa2
 

mrboo001

Banned
Hello Gaf, I have a problem:

On Friday, someone flipped the circuit breaker to my Windows 7 PC before letting me know, so I couldn't shut it down. The power came back on and the PC started up again and went into Startup Repair, but before it could finish the breaker went again (damn Christmas lights).

So now after that happened, when I try to load into Windows 7 from shut down (I sleep in the same room as the PC and the blinking lights drive me crazy), after the BIOS screen goes I get a black screen with a few green dots, starting from the top left of the screen. I tried to boot from the Windows 7 DVD but it wouldn't boot. I pressed "Esc" before it went to boot Windows, select the DVD drive to boot from but it would still boot from the Hard Drive.

Finally in frustration I start random hitting keys on the keyboard and what do you know, I finally make it to the desktop. I don't want to shut the PC down again but I can't really sleep with it on (sleeping in another room is not an option). I doubt this is a sustainable situation... any ideas?

Thank you for your time!

EDIT: Oh one more thing... one time shortly after the 2nd time the circuit broke, I managed to get to the load into Safe Mode... but it got stuck loading a file... "classpnp.sys" I think it was. I don't know if that would help or not. Thanks again.
 

oneran

Member
I had a freeze while playing a game and so I rebooted only to find I can no longer load the OS. It'll freeze up and boot me back the bios with "Windows 7 has experienced critical failure" and only give m the option to try again, or go into recovery mode.

http://imgur.com/a/CpGa2

Finding bad clusters normally points to a failing/dying drive is your OS still unable to boot after running the chkdsk? (if not try running it again)

You may also want to check out the bootrec /fixmbr & scan os tools.

Hello Gaf, I have a problem:

On Friday, someone flipped the circuit breaker to my Windows 7 PC before letting me know, so I couldn't shut it down. The power came back on and the PC started up again and went into Startup Repair, but before it could finish the breaker went again (damn Christmas lights).

So now after that happened, when I try to load into Windows 7 from shut down (I sleep in the same room as the PC and the blinking lights drive me crazy), after the BIOS screen goes I get a black screen with a few green dots, starting from the top left of the screen. I tried to boot from the Windows 7 DVD but it wouldn't boot. I pressed "Esc" before it went to boot Windows, select the DVD drive to boot from but it would still boot from the Hard Drive.

Finally in frustration I start random hitting keys on the keyboard and what do you know, I finally make it to the desktop. I don't want to shut the PC down again but I can't really sleep with it on (sleeping in another room is not an option). I doubt this is a sustainable situation... any ideas?

Thank you for your time!

EDIT: Oh one more thing... one time shortly after the 2nd time the circuit broke, I managed to get to the load into Safe Mode... but it got stuck loading a file... "classpnp.sys" I think it was. I don't know if that would help or not. Thanks again.

Like you said your going to have to reboot eventually, and when you do you should schedule a chkdsk if you haven't already.

If you booted into windows once it most likely will again, so you probably have nothing to worry about but you may want to backup anything important just in case before you reboot.
 

mrboo001

Banned
chkdsk[/URL] if you haven't already.

If you booted into windows once it most likely will again, so you probably have nothing to worry about but you may want to backup anything important just in case before you reboot.

Thank you! I'll try it later and report back. I assume just do the test for the C Drive? Also, I have a SSD for the C Drive but from the link I don't think I have to do any special right?
 

oneran

Member
Thank you! I'll try it later and report back. I assume just do the test for the C Drive? Also, I have a SSD for the C Drive but from the link I don't think I have to do any special right?

You should do them all eventually but start with your C, and yes it's the same procedure for ssd's.


The drive is most likely dying, if you know the manufacture of your hard drive you may be able to fix your drive long enough for you to recover your data. Western digital has a program called lifeguard and seagate has seatools both of which have bootable versions you can download free from their website, there are a bunch of linux tools you can access as well such as the disk utility built into Ubuntu and gparted.

Hope for the best but prepare for the worst!
 

LegendX48

Member
I have a question (that is probably a dumb one with a very obvious answer but anyway), here's some details first: My cpu is an i7 3770k oc'ed to 4.2ghz and stable and my motherboard, MSI z-77a G45 says it does support higher ram speeds with an (oc) next to said speeds.

I recently installed new ram on my system, ddr3 16gb 2400mhz ram, and I set in the bios for the ram to function at its advertised speed and I've been having some issues. First off, when I try to wake up my pc from sleep mode it starts up and then fails and reboots and goes to a screen asking me to either revert all oc settings to their default or just go into settings and tinker around with stuff. Every time. It has even woken up completely on its own to just sit at that screen.

I later looked for some information and saw suggestions to enable my motherboard's xmp profile so I did. I ran Prime 95 both before and after doing so and everything ran perfectly stable with zero issues, excluding the fact that I had a random frame rate drop in Fallout 4 after installing the ram that I hadn't had before outside of the Corvega facility area (prior to enabling xmp, haven't checked after yet), but there were no issues and everything just worked, a tad faster even. But again, like clockwork, when I went to wake up my pc it simply refused and rebooted to the same screen asking to reset the settings or tinker more.

I'm assuming that

A) my mobo doesn't actually support the speed
B) maybe my cpu can't quite cut it?
C) ram is iffy?
D) Bios needs an update

I have yet to try lower speeds and iirc I don't think I've ever really updated my bios.

Sorry for the wall of text, this has been bugging me since I just got the ram back on Saturday.
 

Shiv47

Member
Not sure how to approach this, so here's the issue: my son's computer (PC running Windows 7) is getting very little speed from our internet connection. It's currently running about 3-5mbs, when my iMac running in the room just a few feet away is getting 80+mbs, which is close to our actual connection speed. He's trying to download stuff from Steam and getting 1mbs or less. His PC has a wireless adapter to get the signal; I just recently ran virus/malware cleanup on it, so I'm assuming that's not the issue. What else should I be looking for to try and fix this?
 

Ermac

Proudly debt free. If you need a couple bucks, just ask.
I just did a clean install in my Windows 7 machine. I'm curious which Motherboard drivers are necessary for me to download? Here's a list of them:

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3440&dl=1&RWD=0#driver

(Choose Win7 64)

The only one I've installed is the Realtek LAN driver since my internet wasn't working at first. Other than that, my computer has been working fine the past few days without installing any others. I'm assuming I need to grab the USB3.0 drivers if I want 3.0 speeds on my blue ports? Are any others necessary?
 

Samaritan

Member
Should I be concerned that Speccy can't see any information about my RAM other than its capacity?

lqRwN95.png


It can see more specific information on the RAM page, but on the summary sheet this is all that shows up.
 
I just did a clean install in my Windows 7 machine. I'm curious which Motherboard drivers are necessary for me to download? Here's a list of them:

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3440&dl=1&RWD=0#driver

(Choose Win7 64)

The only one I've installed is the Realtek LAN driver since my internet wasn't working at first. Other than that, my computer has been working fine the past few days without installing any others. I'm assuming I need to grab the USB3.0 drivers if I want 3.0 speeds on my blue ports? Are any others necessary?

Does Device Manager show anything as not having drivers installed(yellow question mark)? Ideally you'd want to have everything with the latest drivers installed but if Device Manager shows everything with drivers installed then you should be go to go. I don't think W7 even includes generic USB 3.0 drivers so you probably do need to download those driver.
 

LegendX48

Member
Just reposting a little bit about my issue since I tinkered around a bit more.

So, my pc has no sleep issues when I set my new ram to 2200mhz or 2133mhz but when I set it to it's advertised speed of 2400mhz and try to wake up my pc it fails, reboots and gives me this screen:


everything works perfectly fine and stable, even when I set it to 2400mhz. The only issue is that it simply cannot wake from sleep properly when it is @2400mhz
 
Not sure how to approach this, so here's the issue: my son's computer (PC running Windows 7) is getting very little speed from our internet connection. It's currently running about 3-5mbs, when my iMac running in the room just a few feet away is getting 80+mbs, which is close to our actual connection speed. He's trying to download stuff from Steam and getting 1mbs or less. His PC has a wireless adapter to get the signal; I just recently ran virus/malware cleanup on it, so I'm assuming that's not the issue. What else should I be looking for to try and fix this?

move the computer and try using a ethernet cable and check the speeds
 

kennah

Member
Just reposting a little bit about my issue since I tinkered around a bit more.

So, my pc has no sleep issues when I set my new ram to 2200mhz or 2133mhz but when I set it to it's advertised speed of 2400mhz and try to wake up my pc it fails, reboots and gives me this screen:



everything works perfectly fine and stable, even when I set it to 2400mhz. The only issue is that it simply cannot wake from sleep properly when it is @2400mhz
Memory controller in the CPU may not be up to task.
 

Ashhong

Member
It's a desktop and on the second floor of our house (router is on first floor), so both are a bit difficult, but if I can find a long enough cable I would like to try a direct connection.

Try a powerline adapter. I use the TP Link AV500 and get amazing speeds clear across the house
 

Vire

Member
Hey GAF could use a bit of help,

I'm working with a new client, however the previous IT manager did not leave any documentation and the server room is an absolute mess.

I need to make a network map of the patch panels and which wall outlet they lead to. What I've done previously is scan the network with an IP Scanner and then I'll get the MAC Address for each device. On halfway decent switches you can pull up a MAC Address table and it will tell you which port that device is associated with - that way I could trace it. (Ok that device is in Room A, so that correlates to this port). The problem is, this Dell PowerConnect 2724 does not support MAC Table addressing.

Is there another good way I can map this patch panel? Or would I need to unplug everything and one by one test it? (Please god no, especially since this isn't a company that can experience downtime)
 
Hey all,

Ok, does anyone know what might be the cause of a PC randomly rebooting while running Windows 7, but working perfectly fine running another OS? So far I've tried Windows XP Pro 32 and 64, Linux Debian Wheezy 64 and Mint 64 and have had no problems with any of them. The problem only occurs in Windows 7.

This is following an upgrade of the motherboard, CPU, RAM and hard drive about a year ago. The problem started back then.

I've disabled the automatic restart on system failure option, but it still reboots. Checking the logs in Event Viewer after the reboot shows errors stating "The previous system shut down at [time] on [date] was unexpected".

No dump files are being created, even though the options in the System Failure section in Startup & Recovery are set to do so. The Windows Error Reporting Service is switched on.

On doing a clean install, this problem will start before I've even installed any of the motherboard drivers. Installing all the latest hardware drivers does not solve the problem.

The problem occurs regardless of what I'm doing, whether it be playing games or just browsing a website. The system can be fine for periods of a few days. Sometimes it will be fine for a week. Once it lasted for two weeks without rebooting. Upon rebooting, sometimes moving the mouse will cause it to reboot again straight away. This can sometimes happen several more times before the system will stabilise.

So far I've tried:

Clean install on 2 different drives.
Different drive cables
Different RAM
Different mice
All USB devices removed and USB disabled in BIOS - PS\2 keyboard and mouse only.
Disabling Aero
... and probably some other stuff I've forgotten, as I've been troubleshooting this problem on and off for the last year or so.

About the only things I haven't tried are putting the old CPU in the new board, and using a different power supply. However, I'm guessing it's not a power or CPU problem as it's fine when running in the other operating systems. Also, I've spent the last 2 months using this PC in Windows XP 64 with no problems.

System specs are below. Any ideas / suggestions (not involving installing Windows 10) would be most welcome!

---

Motherboard: Gigabyte 970A-DS3P (Rev 1)
CPU: AMD FX-8350 8 core 4GHz
RAM: 1 x 8GB PC3-12800 DDR3 800MHz
SSD: Sandisk U110 64GB
Graphics card: Novatech GTX 650 1024MB
PSU: Icute M 700W
Mouse: Kana SteelSeries (USB)
 
Have you tried lowering the sound output in windows to 75%? Once you do check if the noise is still there or just less audible.

I never put my volume too high. Usually I have it at about 10% percent. I've tried raising the volume and the buzzing sound stays at a consistent level.

You may want to try blowing out the headphone jack with some compressed air to to ensure it's free from any debris.

I'll have to get some compressed air and try that.

Have you tried plugging in a pair of actual speakers (nothing fancy any $10 pair/existing pair should do) and checking if the noise is still there?

I haven't tried regular speakers, but I just tried a pair of Senheiser HD 201 $25 over-ear headphones. Complete silence.

Check the Realtek HD control panel if you have one (it should be in your system tray) ensure the speaker configuration is set to headphone or 2/2.1.

The Realtek HD Audio Manager has sound output set to Stereo currently.

But, it sounds as if you covered most of the bases here if nothing else works you may want to consider returning/rma'ing the laptop.

I have thought about that, but it's only noticeable when no other sound is being played with earbuds, and it's not *too* annoying. Still, it would be better to RMA now instead of later since it would be less files to back up. I'll make a decision soon.

Hope that helps!

Thank you.
 

Kai

Member
Been having an annoying problem with Windows 10. Need some help.

I have been trying to add a 2nd account to my wifes computer (so I can have my own login). When I add either a new microsoft account or a local account - each time I try to login it says the User Profile Login Service has failed and won't load.

Now I looked up a fix and it always directs you to Regedit to fix the "corrupt user profile". The problem is since I am adding a new account trying to do this every time - it never actually generates the new account (so there is no user profile to "fix")?

Anyone think they might have a fix? Is this a common Windows 10 problem?
 
Hey guys, I upgraded my sister's 2008 Dell desktop to Windows 10 and found out it only has 2GB of RAM. Reinstalling iTunes took some time. I want to upgrade the RAM but I don't know how to tell what is compatible, can anyone tell me what to buy? I think 6GB of RAM should be fine

Dell Inspiron 530

What is currently installed according to the Service Tag
311-7244 : 2GB DDR2 SDRAM at 800MHz
Part Number XG700
Quantity 2
Description DUAL IN-LINE MEMORY MODULE, 1GB, 800, 128X64, 8, 240, 2RX8
 

PulseONE

Member
This one is a hardware issue.

I have a Toshiba Qosmio gaming laptop.

It technically works, however I have to have the laptop connected to an external display, keeping the display on the laptop itself off.

This is not because the screen doesn't work, it does. The issue is that if the screen turns on for more than a few seconds, the laptop immediately loses power.

I can confirm its not the charger or the battery, as I've replaced both. I assume the issue is the power supply inside the laptop itself, but that's something I have little experience with, any ideas?
 
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