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[doctorblurg]

So I've had this laptop for nearly 3 1/2 years now
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152429

Just this week the battery started to not charge past 70% and I assumed that it's just getting old and I need a replacement. Unfortunately I really don't know where to turn. The MSI store doesn't seem to sell replacements as far as I can tell, and the replacements on Newegg are from a seller that has a nearly 50/50 crapshoot on if you have a good or bad experience with them. The last thing I wanna do is buy a battery that isn't meant for my laptop and damage it somehow, or buy from someone and end up with a messed up product.

If someone could link me somewhere to buy a replacement I would immensely appreciate it, I'm really not experienced with buying replacement PC parts so this all a bit overwhelming.

 

[Jyrii]

FFdshow was going to be mine.

First figure out your original questions.
Is it all games or 1? Thats a massive issue right there and needs to be the first check.

Also go into the game files and see if you can find the movie files and play them separately and verify they don't judder as single entities in Windows.

Small things:
Mae sure your config is right for the speaker settings including their hertz level
Properties then advanced when in the sound mixer bar and highlighting whatever your output stream. Its probably going to be 16bit, 44100 hz. Regardless change it around and see what happens.

Oh my god, I think I finally found the cause for the issue. Asus has this system power saving application called EPU-6 engine that controls my CPU cooler's fans. Somehow using it on auto-setting it causes the audio lag. When I set it to 'high', there was no longer any lag.

I'm going to build a new computer this year, but I am glad I can still use this old rig till then.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but I am having terrible problems running DMC: Devil May Cry. The framerate just keeps tanking like crazy no matter what graphics preset I have it on it won't go above 30fps if I am moving and if I shoot or attack it drops into the teens. I just checked and I can run TW3 at 1080 60 on high and ultra settings just fine like normal.

This is my set up...

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB SOC Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)

Edit: Just wanted to let everyone know that I figured it out. You just need to disable framerate target in CCC.

 

[Mandelbo]

Hi, I keep having a problem where my laptop BSODs after a seemingly arbitrary amount of time with the error: CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED. I thought it only happened when I used Word, but it did it again just then when I was using Atom too.

It doesn't BSOD immediately - first, all applications stop responding as well as the start menu, then after about a minute a small window appears saying "this application isn't responding. It might respond if you wait" then asks if I want to end the process, but I can't interact with the window because that isn't responding either. After another minute or so the BSOD finally happens. When the laptop reboots it throws some notifications at me telling me to turn firewall, spyware and virus protection on even though Norton antivirus appears to be running fine.

This is genuinely becoming a problem because I can no longer rely on my laptop to run correctly in lectures and such, as well as potentially losing work from it. It'd be great if I could get this fixed as soon as possible.

e: I've also tried sfc SCANNOW multiple times in cmd and powershell and it's returned no errors every time.

 

[jotun?]

Is there any way to overwrite the default fan curve on a video card?

I have an EVGA GTX 980 Ti with "Whisper Silent Cooling", which is really just the reference blower with a fan profile that prevents it from going above ~40%. So by default it stays relatively quiet, but it ends up thermal throttling itself at 80+C

Since I'd prefer to suffer a bit of fan noise rather than have the thing overheating all the time, I want to change the fan curve to be a bit more aggressive. I downloaded EVGA Precision X, which allows that, but it has problems. The fan curve I create only works when Precision X is running, and it has a tendency to randomly crash with no message, leaving the fan stuck at one speed.

I'd really like to be able to change the fan curve without having this unstable bloated program running all the time - is there any way to do that?

 

[RGM79]

Hi, I keep having a problem where my laptop BSODs after a seemingly arbitrary amount of time with the error: CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED. I thought it only happened when I used Word, but it did it again just then when I was using Atom too.

It doesn't BSOD immediately - first, all applications stop responding as well as the start menu, then after about a minute a small window appears saying "this application isn't responding. It might respond if you wait" then asks if I want to end the process, but I can't interact with the window because that isn't responding either. After another minute or so the BSOD finally happens. When the laptop reboots it throws some notifications at me telling me to turn firewall, spyware and virus protection on even though Norton antivirus appears to be running fine.

This is genuinely becoming a problem because I can no longer rely on my laptop to run correctly in lectures and such, as well as potentially losing work from it. It'd be great if I could get this fixed as soon as possible.

e: I've also tried sfc SCANNOW multiple times in cmd and powershell and it's returned no errors every time.

Try BlueScreenView to see if any more information can be gleamed from the most recent crashes. Without knowing what causes it, all I can sort of reliably recommend is that you may want to consider saving your important documents and then doing a format and reinstall of Windows. If a clean slate to start from still doesn't solve the issue, then it may be hardware related.

Is there any way to overwrite the default fan curve on a video card?

I have an EVGA GTX 980 Ti with "Whisper Silent Cooling", which is really just the reference blower with a fan profile that prevents it from going above ~40%. So by default it stays relatively quiet, but it ends up thermal throttling itself at 80+C

Since I'd prefer to suffer a bit of fan noise rather than have the thing overheating all the time, I want to change the fan curve to be a bit more aggressive. I downloaded EVGA Precision X, which allows that, but it has problems. The fan curve I create only works when Precision X is running, and it has a tendency to randomly crash with no message, leaving the fan stuck at one speed.

I'd really like to be able to change the fan curve without having this unstable bloated program running all the time - is there any way to do that?

Try MSI Afterburner or Nvidia Inspector. I know the former allows you to set fan curves, and I do not believe it is buggy, it's never crashed in my experience. I haven't used Nvidia Inspector myself but I do know it has some fan control, I'm not sure if it allows custom fan curves or if it's just a fan speed setting.

 

[adamantypants]

Google hangouts keeps installing on my Chrome every time I launch it. How can I get rid of this shit permanently?

Chrome > settings > extensions
Disable and uninstall Hangouts. If you're signed in to chrome, it will automatically reinstall every extension you've downloaded AND launch them on Chrome startup.

Hi guys! today, I need your help.

Last Summer, I lost sound on my PC. I think the problem had to do with critical system sound files being quarantined and removed by AVG. It was never resolved, and I've given up trying to fix it. Instead, I am going to buy a new motherboard. Surely, this will fix the problem (...yeah?). When discussing the problem here, a poster mentioned that I should try to get a mobo which stores its sound files some place other than where my current mobo stores them. If that makes sense. I might be misremembering as this was a very long time ago.

So... I'm in the market for a new motherboard.
Here's what I need:
-USB 3.0 support

actually that's all I need. And, if possible, for the mobo to fit the criteria above, re: sound file storage.

My current mobo is a MSI 760GM-P34 (FX)

Thank you so much for your help in advance!

EDIT:
my CPU: AMD FX 8120
my GPU: AMD Radeon HD7900

Why not try reinstalling Windows first? That's an old CPU, finding a mobo that isn't used or already on its last legs could be difficult. Getting a new mobo would require a reinstall of Windows anyway so just start there.

So I've had this laptop for nearly 3 1/2 years now
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152429

Just this week the battery started to not charge past 70% and I assumed that it's just getting old and I need a replacement. Unfortunately I really don't know where to turn. The MSI store doesn't seem to sell replacements as far as I can tell, and the replacements on Newegg are from a seller that has a nearly 50/50 crapshoot on if you have a good or bad experience with them. The last thing I wanna do is buy a battery that isn't meant for my laptop and damage it somehow, or buy from someone and end up with a messed up product.

If someone could link me somewhere to buy a replacement I would immensely appreciate it, I'm really not experienced with buying replacement PC parts so this all a bit overwhelming.

Take the battery out of the laptop and look for the part number. Some quick Googling leads me to believe that your battery is part #BTY L74. Once you find the part number, it's just a matter of finding an online retailer that sells those batteries. Since the battery won't be OEM, it probably won't work as well as a new OEM battery, but still probably better than the dying one inside your laptop right now. When I bought a battery for my aging laptop, I bought the one with the best user reviews from Amazon.

 

[Mandelbo]

Try BlueScreenView to see if any more information can be gleamed from the most recent crashes. Without knowing what causes it, all I can sort of reliably recommend is that you may want to consider saving your important documents and then doing a format and reinstall of Windows. If a clean slate to start from still doesn't solve the issue, then it may be hardware related.

Alright, downloaded that and it says that the driver that's causing the crash is "ntoskrnl.exe". This is the full log of the most recent crash:

022616-31515-01.dmp
26/02/2016 11:00:31
CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED <--- this error is the same every time
0x000000ef
ffffe000`2acd0080
00000000`00000000
00000000`00000000
00000000`00000000
ntoskrnl.exe <-- this is the same for every crash
ntoskrnl.exe+142480 <-- as is this
NT Kernel & System <-- and this
Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Microsoft Corporation 10.0.10586.103 (th2_release.160126-1819)
x64
ntoskrnl.exe+142480
C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\022616-31515-01.dmp
4
15
10586
331,348
26/02/2016 11:03:10

I don't know how helpful that'll be, but it's better than nothing.

edit: LITERALLY just had another crash, but with a different error this time: "UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION". The computer crashed in much the same way but it was apparently caused by a different driver...

022616-28812-01.dmp
26/02/2016 18:41:33
0x00000154
ffffe000`8a255000
ffffd000`21978b20
00000000`00000000
00000000`00000000
NTFS.sys
NTFS.sys+ed38 NT
File System Driver
Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Microsoft Corporation 10.0.10586.0 (th2_release.151029-1700)
x64
ntoskrnl.exe+142480
C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\022616-28812-01.dmp
4
15
10586
327,292
26/02/2016 18:43:45

 

[doctorblurg]

Take the battery out of the laptop and look for the part number. Some quick Googling leads me to believe that your battery is part #BTY L74. Once you find the part number, it's just a matter of finding an online retailer that sells those batteries. Since the battery won't be OEM, it probably won't work as well as a new OEM battery, but still probably better than the dying one inside your laptop right now. When I bought a battery for my aging laptop, I bought the one with the best user reviews from Amazon.

Thanks a ton the battery is actually a BTY-S14! I'll take a look at sellers but has anyone had any experience with Battpit or CWK?

 

[jett]

I have a weird "problem." I'm trying to check for open ports on my router using this website. But no matter which port I try, it tells me they cannot see my service, even ports I know are open and in use (as I can check them in the resource monitor). Any idea what's causing this? Maybe a setting in the router?

 

[Symphonia]

I assume if I want to upgrade my RAM, the speeds have to match up? I ask because I purchased an 8GB stick of RAM with a speed of 1600, when the RAM in my laptop is 12800S. I'd have to buy a stick of equal speed, surely?

 

[Iorv3th]

Hi guys! today, I need your help.

Last Summer, I lost sound on my PC. I think the problem had to do with critical system sound files being quarantined and removed by AVG. It was never resolved, and I've given up trying to fix it. Instead, I am going to buy a new motherboard. Surely, this will fix the problem (...yeah?). When discussing the problem here, a poster mentioned that I should try to get a mobo which stores its sound files some place other than where my current mobo stores them. If that makes sense. I might be misremembering as this was a very long time ago.

So... I'm in the market for a new motherboard.
Here's what I need:
-USB 3.0 support

actually that's all I need. And, if possible, for the mobo to fit the criteria above, re: sound file storage.

My current mobo is a MSI 760GM-P34 (FX)

Thank you so much for your help in advance!

EDIT:
my CPU: AMD FX 8120
my GPU: AMD Radeon HD7900

Replacing your motherboard isn't going to fix the issue. If it's AVG quarantining the files, as long as you know they are safe you can always add them to an exception list. However I would advise you to make sure you got the drivers from the official MSI site or realtek (whichever sound chip they have). If you just yahoo or google it you are going to get a lot of different 3rd party sites and some of them will be junk or viruses.

I've been hit with a very frustrating issue just in the last few days:

My computer will grind to a complete halt, sometimes taking a long time to switch tasks and sometimes never switching at all. Sometimes it works normally, with me being able to open and switch programs at will, but the last two days have been a nightmare.

When I check the Task Manager, it shows my disk usage at a constant 100% despite my highest program doing negligible disk reading/writing. Restarting the computer does nothing; even if I immediately open just the task manager it shows disk usage at 100% and opening programs is a battle.



Could this be a sign of a failing drive? I haven't heard any noises or seen any other evidence. I'm using Windows 8.1 and a HDD on a PC built in late 2012 for reference.

Could be, but windows 8.1 also has a feature that wasn't in 7 where it is copying and moving files around to other sectors if it detects a failing/bad spot.

Open a command prompt as administrator and run

Chkdsk /f C:

After that finishes run

Chkdsk /r C:

Here is a link to some more info that could help http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2045646/windows-100-disk-usage.html

So I've had this laptop for nearly 3 1/2 years now
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152429

Just this week the battery started to not charge past 70% and I assumed that it's just getting old and I need a replacement. Unfortunately I really don't know where to turn. The MSI store doesn't seem to sell replacements as far as I can tell, and the replacements on Newegg are from a seller that has a nearly 50/50 crapshoot on if you have a good or bad experience with them. The last thing I wanna do is buy a battery that isn't meant for my laptop and damage it somehow, or buy from someone and end up with a messed up product.

If someone could link me somewhere to buy a replacement I would immensely appreciate it, I'm really not experienced with buying replacement PC parts so this all a bit overwhelming.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/laptop

Alright, downloaded that and it says that the driver that's causing the crash is "ntoskrnl.exe". This is the full log of the most recent crash:

022616-31515-01.dmp
26/02/2016 11:00:31
CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED <--- this error is the same every time
0x000000ef
ffffe000`2acd0080
00000000`00000000
00000000`00000000
00000000`00000000
ntoskrnl.exe <-- this is the same for every crash
ntoskrnl.exe+142480 <-- as is this
NT Kernel & System <-- and this
Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Microsoft Corporation 10.0.10586.103 (th2_release.160126-1819)
x64
ntoskrnl.exe+142480
C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\022616-31515-01.dmp
4
15
10586
331,348
26/02/2016 11:03:10

I don't know how helpful that'll be, but it's better than nothing.

edit: LITERALLY just had another crash, but with a different error this time: "UNEXPECTED_STORE_EXCEPTION". The computer crashed in much the same way but it was apparently caused by a different driver...

022616-28812-01.dmp
26/02/2016 18:41:33
0x00000154
ffffe000`8a255000
ffffd000`21978b20
00000000`00000000
00000000`00000000
NTFS.sys
NTFS.sys+ed38 NT
File System Driver
Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Microsoft Corporation 10.0.10586.0 (th2_release.151029-1700)
x64
ntoskrnl.exe+142480
C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\022616-28812-01.dmp
4
15
10586
327,292
26/02/2016 18:43:45

Have you ever overclocked the system? Could also be memory related. It is storing the log file for the crash if you can find a place to post it online.

C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\022616-28812-01.dmp < ---- location of the last crash you posted.

I assume if I want to upgrade my RAM, the speeds have to match up? I ask because I purchased an 8GB stick of RAM with a speed of 1600, when the RAM in my laptop is 12800S. I'd have to buy a stick of equal speed, surely?

All depends on the motherboard. Most cases it will run the faster stick at the speed fo the slower stick. Sometimes it wont work at all. If you already bought it, test it out and see if it works, you can always return it if it doesn't.

 

[Symphonia]

I already tested it out. Windows is saying it recognises there's 12GB RAM in my laptop, a 4GB stick that cannot be replaced, and the new 8GB stick to replace the 2GB that was already in there. Yet, for some reason, it runs slower. It took between 5-10 minutes to boot up. For reference, here's the Crucial scan of my laptop, with the recommended RAM.

http://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/scanview/9193A65B31D926C3

I purchased the top one for £29.99 and got it this morning. Installed it, but nothing. For further reference, here's a photo of the two cards side by side.

It is worth mentioning also that when I opened up the compartment on my laptop and removed the 2GB slot, there were four of those chips on-board with the actual laptop.

For even further reference, here's the basic system info.

 

[Mandelbo]

Have you ever overclocked the system? Could also be memory related. It is storing the log file for the crash if you can find a place to post it online.

C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\022616-28812-01.dmp < ---- location of the last crash you posted.

Nope, I've never overclocked it. I've never touched the inside of my laptop at all, actually.

Here's a link to the log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6nJ4M2YdijgQURTMG5qUDg0bXc/view?usp=sharing

 

[Iorv3th]

I already tested it out. Windows is saying it recognises there's 12GB RAM in my laptop, a 4GB stick that cannot be replaced, and the new 8GB stick to replace the 2GB that was already in there. Yet, for some reason, it runs slower. It took between 5-10 minutes to boot up. For reference, here's the Crucial scan of my laptop, with the recommended RAM.

http://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/scanview/9193A65B31D926C3

I purchased the top one for £29.99 and got it this morning. Installed it, but nothing. For further reference, here's a photo of the two cards side by side.



It is worth mentioning also that when I opened up the compartment on my laptop and removed the 2GB slot, there were four of those chips on-board with the actual laptop.

For even further reference, here's the basic system info.

The link isn't working for me.

But I think I found the same one on amazon and it looks like everything is right, the timing etc is all the same. It's actually the exact same speed as the ram you took out too.

But it sounds like you got it to boot into windows right? You said it's showing up as 12GB but then you said you put it in and get nothing?


Also how comfortable are you going into the bios? If you can go in and check and see what speed it has your ram set to.

Nope, I've never overclocked it. I've never touched the inside of my laptop at all, actually.

Here's a link to the log: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6nJ4M2YdijgQURTMG5qUDg0bXc/view?usp=sharing

Can't look at it right now at work. Try booting into safe mode or do a cleanboot.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/929135

Also what version of windows?

 

[Symphonia]

Also how comfortable are you going into the bios? If you can go in and check and see what speed it has your ram set to.

Yeah. Crucial shows the max I can have is 12GB. So I swapped out the 2GB with the new 8GB, booted Windows, and after it finally booted. it showed up as 12GB RAM installed. Great, the RAM is there, but the speed most certainly wasn't. I swapped the RAM back around and Windows booted faster with 6GB than it did with 12GB.

How how do I get in to the BIOS?

 

[Iorv3th]

Yeah. Crucial shows the max I can have is 12GB. So I swapped out the 2GB with the new 8GB, booted Windows, and after it finally booted. it showed up as 12GB RAM installed. Great, the RAM is there, but the speed most certainly wasn't. I swapped the RAM back around and Windows booted faster with 6GB than it did with 12GB.

How how do I get in to the BIOS?

When you boot the computer press the DEL key before it boots into windows. Should load the bios. Under information or advanced maybe, should show the ram type, speed, etc. See what the speed is set to. You can manually change it here if it's set to auto.

Also that ram is able to run at 1.35v and 1.5v see what it shows up as.

Don't change anything in the bios though. Just get the information and exit out without saving until we have more info.

 

[Mandelbo]

Can't look at it right now at work. Try booting into safe mode or do a cleanboot.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/929135

Also what version of windows?

Running the latest version of Windows 10. Will take a look at cleanbooting the pc when it next bluescreens - I've noticed that it only seems to do it when I'm running chrome in addition to another program, but I have no idea if that's just coincidence or not.

 

[Iorv3th]

Running the latest version of Windows 10. Will take a look at cleanbooting the pc when it next bluescreens - I've noticed that it only seems to do it when I'm running chrome in addition to another program, but I have no idea if that's just coincidence or not.

If you did an upgrade it could be that some drivers are missing too. Another thing you can look at to find out is go into device manager and see if there are any yellow exclamation marks or question marks.

Just hit the start button and type device manager. Should show up as the top program.

 

[Mandelbo]

If you did an upgrade it could be that some drivers are missing too. Another thing you can look at to find out is go into device manager and see if there are any yellow exclamation marks or question marks.

Just hit the start button and type device manager. Should show up as the top program.

As in upgraded from an earlier version of windows? That shouldn't be the issue, my laptop came with W10 installed on it already. I'll give device manager a go when I'm next at my laptop, though.

e: Took a look at device manager, nothing seemed out of the ordinary - there were no exclamation marks on any of the drivers.

 

[Iorv3th]

As in upgraded from an earlier version of windows? That shouldn't be the issue, my laptop came with W10 installed on it already. I'll give device manager a go when I'm next at my laptop, though.

e: Took a look at device manager, nothing seemed out of the ordinary - there were no exclamation marks on any of the drivers.

Ok try the cleanboot and see if that changes anything.

 

[Symphonia]

When you boot the computer press the DEL key before it boots into windows. Should load the bios. Under information or advanced maybe, should show the ram type, speed, etc. See what the speed is set to. You can manually change it here if it's set to auto.

Also that ram is able to run at 1.35v and 1.5v see what it shows up as.

Don't change anything in the bios though. Just get the information and exit out without saving until we have more info.

OK, I did that.

That's all it comes up with, and nothing under the advanced tab.

Could you link me to the Amazon page you found?

 

[Roo]

Sorry for the rather noob question but I'd like some feedback on the matter as I only find polarizing comments about it.

What are the pros and cons of hidding your network's SSID?
I know it doesn't replace a strong password and encryptation but it seems to be effective against people looking for a quick internet access.

Yet, I found this nugget on Wikipedia

Network cloaking is a form of security through obscurity and offers no protection against even the most basic attacks against a wireless network. Furthermore, the technique of SSID hiding forces wireless clients to probe for SSIDs everywhere they go which makes them vulnerable to attackers who emulate the probed network. Client side SSID probing is far more dangerous than Base station side beaconing

Btw, just as a quick test.. On the router's config page I recently changed my password using WPA2 TSK AES etc while hidding my SSID.
All good in that front but when I typed all the details on my phone and smart TV, intentionally I selected WEP on my TV and it could connect to internet just fine. What's with that?
Shouldn't it give me an error or something because I used the wrong security protocol/certification?

 

[Zepp Twofist]

Sorry for the rather noob question but I'd like some feedback on the matter as I only find polarizing comments about it.

What are the pros and cons of hidding your network's SSID?

Cons are that it is slightly harder to add the network to your devices. Can't think of any reasonable pros. Only scenario where it increases security is if you have stupidly simple password and the guy trying to hack you is an idiot.

If your network is running WPA2 TSK AES devices that don't support that won't be able to connect. Can't say what is up with your TV. Either your router is configured wrong, or the TV overrides your manual settings when it discovers the network type.

I have a weird "problem." I'm trying to check for open ports on my router using this website. But no matter which port I try, it tells me they cannot see my service, even ports I know are open and in use (as I can check them in the resource monitor). Any idea what's causing this? Maybe a setting in the router?

Ports need to be forwarded in your router to a machine on your local network that responds to that particular port. If you are running a web server (port 80) and have forwarded it properly, this website should tell you that the port answers correctly. If you have forwarded another port for a specific application, that application needs to be running to answer requests. Basically, your config is wrong if the site doesn't tell you that a port is open, but you need to be more specific about what you are trying to do in order for anyone to help you.

 

[Megasoum]

I bought a new TV recently and decided to finally try plugging my PC into it.

Technically it's working fine but I just can't get a proper image calibration on that screen. Colors/contrast and brightness look terrible.

The TV is fine when watching actual TV or playing on consoles but the PC specifically looks really bad.

I tried the Windows tool for color calibration but it didn't give much results.

Are there any tricks to calibrate that stuff?

 

[kennah]

I bought a new TV recently and decided to finally try plugging my PC into it.

Technically it's working fine but I just can't get a proper image calibration on that screen. Colors/contrast and brightness look terrible.

The TV is fine when watching actual TV or playing on consoles but the PC specifically looks really bad.

I tried the Windows tool for color calibration but it didn't give much results.

Are there any tricks to calibrate that stuff?

TV Model number would probably help. Also look and see if there are any 'game' or 'pc' modes that would disable any sort of post processing.

 

[Megasoum]

TV Model number would probably help. Also look and see if there are any 'game' or 'pc' modes that would disable any sort of post processing.

Right, sorry.

It's a Sharp 50" Roku TV (LC-50LB371C)

There is a game mode but it doesn't change anything apparent on the image quality.

 

[Tawney Bomb]

Hey guys,

About 3 weeks ago I purchased the Arris Surfboard SB6141, installed it, had Time Warner activate it, no problems. Today at about 9AM it stopped connecting to the Internet, tried unplugging etc with no luck. Call TWC and they said it's the box, is my modem dead? It's still showing 3 flashing lights, but won't connect it the Internet.

Anything I can do? Conveniently Time Warner can lease me a modem again, but I'd rather not go that path.
Please help!

Edit: never mind. Randomly started working again after I gave up.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

Alright. Getting kind of worried here. If I leave my computer on for a bit everything just starts to slow down significantly. Anything file explorer related starts to go first and then finally even my browser just sits there and I get the loading cursor on my mouse. After a couple minutes of my computer being on if I right click on anything or if I open more than two or so layers in file explore or anything like windows update or recovery, my mouse will just give me the loading cursor until it resolves by either doing nothing or by loading for ever and then giving me the "this operation returned because the timeout period expired" message. I have tried restarting and shuting down and it will work fine for about 20 min but then slow down and eventualy freeze again.

I just built this PC last month and haven't done any sort of illegal downloading or even visited any nefarious website

Spoiler

(Not even porn lol)

I treat her like she is my baby. What is going on and how do I fix it?

 

[Roussow]

So I just got a new computer, and I'm trying to use my headset on it for communication during games. I'm using a Logitech G230 Headset, and while the mic seems to be detected, it doesn't record any sound -- the headset has sound coming through it, but the mic just doesn't work, I've tested it in the sound mixer, skype, team speak, curse, nothing works. I don't think the mic is busted either, as I tried a similar older Razer headset and I had the same issue.

 

[Rktk]

So I just got a new computer, and I'm trying to use my headset on it for communication during games. I'm using a Logitech G230 Headset, and while the mic seems to be detected, it doesn't record any sound -- the headset has sound coming through it, but the mic just doesn't work, I've tested it in the sound mixer, skype, team speak, curse, nothing works. I don't think the mic is busted either, as I tried a similar older Razer headset and I had the same issue.

Check "recording devices" by right clicking the speaker icon in the lower right tray. See what the default recording device is. Also if you are using a tower PC sometimes it defaults to the rear or front panel IO so check which one and also swap over the cables.

 

[gelf]

Have had a weird issue with my laptops display for a while. Sometimes it isn't detected and doesn't turn on at startup or on restart. I can confirm Windows starts because I can still use the laptop by connecting an external display. After numerous restarts the display will eventually come back and will work with zero issues until I next have to risk a full restart for a windows update. There is never a problem resuming from sleep mode.

Any ideas for this? I've tried reattaching the display cable and even replacing the screen entirely but no luck.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

Guys, my above issue is still persisting. Is there anyone here that can help before I head to Microsoft support? Trying to avoid that.

 

[Dhruv_hanom]

Guys, my above issue is still persisting. Is there anyone here that can help before I head to Microsoft support? Trying to avoid that.

Try checking task manager and have a look at your disk usage

I did that. What is normal? It hovers around 0-1%

Edit, Cpu hovers at around 15% though it did spike into the 90s for a split second when I opened up my downloads folder.

Edit 2, Just checked for updates and it stays around 32% usage while doing that.

yup that's normal, any processes using your cpu?

Edit: see that's above average, are there any specific processes using your cpu power?

Have had a weird issue with my laptops display for a while. Sometimes it isn't detected and doesn't turn on at startup or on restart. I can confirm Windows starts because I can still use the laptop by connecting an external display. After numerous restarts the display will eventually come back and will work with zero issues until I next have to risk a full restart for a windows update. There is never a problem resuming from sleep mode.

Any ideas for this? I've tried reattaching the display cable and even replacing the screen entirely but no luck.

I honestly have no idea, i think the best course of action would be to get it checked at a repair centre.
Since you've changed screens and external displays work the only component left is the motherboard itself(such a weird issue tbh)

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

Try checking task manager and have a look at your disk usage

I did that. What is normal? It hovers around 0-1%

Edit, Cpu hovers at around 15% though it did spike into the 90s for a split second when I opened up my downloads folder.

Edit 2, Just checked for updates and it stays around 32% usage while doing that.

Edit 3, Edge takes up the most cpu at 7.0% sometimes

 

[Zepp Twofist]

Guys, my above issue is still persisting. Is there anyone here that can help before I head to Microsoft support? Trying to avoid that.

What are your hardware temperatures at.

But symptoms point mostly to hard drive troubles. Stuff like this is usually an indication of a faulty drive, controller or cable.

 

[Dhruv_hanom]

What are your hardware temperatures at.

But symptoms point mostly to hard drive troubles. Stuff like this is usually an indication of a faulty drive, controller or cable.

Yep i was going to suggest that. Vlad try installing windows on a fresh hdd


Well since you've got an hdd, try installing windows there. I havent personally dealt with an ssd failure yet so i dont know the exact symptoms. installing windows on the hdd and plugging out the ssd should give us a clue.
Temps are all normal.

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

What are your hardware temperatures at.

But symptoms point mostly to hard drive troubles. Stuff like this is usually an indication of a faulty drive, controller or cable.

All temps seem normal to me.

Gpu temp is at 41 degrees

Gpu usage spikes like crazy from 0 to the 50s and 70s at the highest probably averaging around 35

fan speed 40

core clock hovers around 320

Memory clock 150

memory usage is at 516 consistently

Cpu1 temp is around 22

Sorry if I'm slow guys I'm feeling under the weather atm.

Edit this is my set up BTW,

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB SOC Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)

I have the operating system installed to the SSD and nothing on the hdd yet. You really think it could be my SSD?

 

[VlaudTheImpaler]

Ok so I think that I've figured out how the problem is occuring. The problem seems to manifest when taking my computer out of sleep. Sometimes it will come out of sleep ok but slow unless I leave it in sleep for a while and it gives me the log in screen. I can't seem to get past that. Regardless if I try to use my computer after coming out of sleep successfully the problem I've been having manifests itself.

However If I do a shutdown and restart then everything works completely fine until I stop and the computer goes into sleep again. Are there any downsides to setting my computer to never go to sleep? I read a while back, when I only had a surface mind you, that it was better to leave your PC on all the time or something and not do a shutdown every night but I thought that that was if you had it set to sleep.

 

[DeathGlobe]

So few days ago I noticed the entire folder of every photo me and my gf have ever taken had vanished. I have used two different recovery softwares and neither can find a trace of the file name or anything similar. Is there any other options? I came across a search result that said sometimes the permissions can hide files but I never heard of that

 

[Megasoum]

So what is the latest on doing fresh Windows 10 installs?

I upgraded my legit Win 8.1 to Win10 when the option became available but now I'm having a ton of issues with the store and all the W10 UAP stuff. I didn't mind until now cause who cares about those apps really but now that they are starting to release games, I'd love to have a store...

I'm thinking about doing a format with clean install but I remember that when W10 came out there was some weird stuff that had to be done to achieve that?

I assume I need a way to find my W10 product key somewhere and then I can download the ISO on Microsoft's site, put it on a USB and do a fresh install?

 

[Zepp Twofist]

So what is the latest on doing fresh Windows 10 installs?

I upgraded my legit Win 8.1 to Win10 when the option became available but now I'm having a ton of issues with the store and all the W10 UAP stuff. I didn't mind until now cause who cares about those apps really but now that they are starting to release games, I'd love to have a store...

I'm thinking about doing a format with clean install but I remember that when W10 came out there was some weird stuff that had to be done to achieve that?

I assume I need a way to find my W10 product key somewhere and then I can download the ISO on Microsoft's site, put it on a USB and do a fresh install?

If you have already installed and activated W10 on your current hardware, you can do a fresh install without a key.

 

[killroy87]

Hey guys, so I just installed a couple windows 10 updates, and after restart my screen now boots to black and stays there. It loads the motherboard logo (and I can access the BIOS), but anything beyond that is just black. I have NO idea what happened, and I can't get into Safe Mode or anything. I tried taking out my GPU and booting straight from the motherboard, but that's the same problem. Here's my setup.

i7-4790
R9 290
16GB RAM
ASUS B85M-E

I have ZERO idea what to do here, I have no idea why it's doing this now. Any ideas?

 

[krae_man]

I just bought a new router and it's not allowing more then one device to connect to the internet at the same time.

I downloaded Broforce today and it downloaded at the full speed of my connection but while it was downloading I couldn't even get gaf to show up on my phone or PC.

While it was downloading Broforce the "your internet connection is fine" icon on the router was yellow(problem) instead of blue(everything is fine).

I've redone all the settings multiple times. I had the same problem yesterday and I did a reset and I thought I had it fixed as I was able to stream a youtube video on my PC, Podcast on my phone and download a random PSN game all at the same time but now it's back to only letting one device connect at a time.

Device is a TP link WR940N. PC is connected wired, everything else wifi.

Any idea what is causing this?

 

[Teknoman]

So I snagged a Dell M991 CRT monitor from a thrift store for cheap today. It didnt have the original power cable, but I found a typical 3 pronged cable to plug and test it. The screen powered up with the "Check Display Cable" image just fine (not being plugged into a PC and all). However after I got home, every time I try to connect it to any VGA port, the monitor turns itself into what I guess is sleep mode (display goes off and green light turns orange).

Even when connecting a DVI adapter without plugging anything else into it, the monitor turns off. The instant you disconnect it, it comes back on. Could this be a power issue? I'd assume the cable should be ok if it powers on at all?

EDIT: Well I got it to work after a cold laptop boot, but it looks like its sorta missing red heh.

 

[PlayALLtheGames]

Been out of the Tier 1 game too long and honestly feeling kind of dumb right now.

Added a second monitor (Dell E2414H) to a setup via VGA that does 1920x1080. Monitor refuses to go above 1280x1024. Not an option. Thought I had it figured out when I noticed it was on 75hz (max res 1280x1024) but went down to 60 and same issue. Even if it's the ONLY screen being used, it will not go above 1280x1024.

First thing I think is drivers but the machine is a Lenovo X250 (not that old) with Intel 5000 graphics and I have never ever had to download drivers for a fucking monitor.

It shows as generic PnP monitor, where-as the other display, working properly, shows make and model, so I guess it probably is driver-related?

What year is it?

 

[TheChewyWaffles]

Almost started a new thread about it, but I figured I'd try here first. Ever since the recent Windows update (1511 or something?) I've been having random problems with my mouse stuttering and a beeping noise coming out of my speakers when the mouse cursor moves. At that point only a reboot seems to fix it (though I've not tried logging out).

I found a video demonstrating my exact problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuolB3uESyA

I've never had this issue until this week, and now it seems to happen several times a day depending on how much I use my computer. Anyone know what to do about this? First time it happened was while playing FarCry Primal - and I've actually seen ONE other report of the same thing (see comments):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaWUfftBQVU

edit:

Since I want to give as well as take, here's one thing I ran across in my googling:

http://community.acer.com/t5/Window...Synaptics-Driver-gives-beeps/m-p/385259#M2038

Some folks claimed this solves their problems. I certainly have RealTek audio on my ASUS mb, but I don't use it since I'm outputting via HDMI from my nVidia card.

 

[dpunk3]

So few days ago I noticed the entire folder of every photo me and my gf have ever taken had vanished. I have used two different recovery softwares and neither can find a trace of the file name or anything similar. Is there any other options? I came across a search result that said sometimes the permissions can hide files but I never heard of that

I accidentally attributed a folder to hidden once. Interesting (and insightful) mistake realized when I found the missing folder months later after switching a then unknown feature on. What version of Windows are you using?

 

[Megasoum]

Almost started a new thread about it, but I figured I'd try here first. Ever since the recent Windows update (1511 or something?) I've been having random problems with my mouse stuttering and a beeping noise coming out of my speakers when the mouse cursor moves. At that point only a reboot seems to fix it (though I've not tried logging out).

I found a video demonstrating my exact problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuolB3uESyA

I've never had this issue until this week, and now it seems to happen several times a day depending on how much I use my computer. Anyone know what to do about this? First time it happened was while playing FarCry Primal - and I've actually seen ONE other report of the same thing (see comments):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaWUfftBQVU

edit:

Since I want to give as well as take, here's one thing I ran across in my googling:

http://community.acer.com/t5/Window...Synaptics-Driver-gives-beeps/m-p/385259#M2038

Some folks claimed this solves their problems. I certainly have RealTek audio on my ASUS mb, but I don't use it since I'm outputting via HDMI from my nVidia card.

Funny, same thing happened to me yesterday when I booted Witcher 3.

It only happened once so far so I'm not too bothered but if it happens again I'll definitly be looking into one of those solution (I do use a Realtek soundcard on my mb).

 

[XAL]

So I updated to the new 10586.122 build last night, set to install updates and shut down. (All of my drivers are current btw).

I come home from work today, boot up - and I'm greeted with a black screen and a mouse pointer.

Ok...I hit control and type in my password and am able to log in (albeit slowly). Everything seems ok at first, then I try opening Chrome...Discord...Steam...Firefox from my taskbar. They open but nothing shows up, everything slows down, I get errors for unresponsive page for Chrome. Discord is a black window that I can't interact with. Firefox doesn't even show up on screen. Steam doesn't open. I check task manager, everything is running. I kill all the programs. Try opening them through not-shortcuts from C drive - same problem. Try launching them through run tool, same problems - except for firefox which launches fine. Ok...

I click the start menu, nothing opens. I hit windows key. Nothing happens.

I click the microsoft word doc on my desktop...opens fine.

Ok, so start menu and everything except Word and Excel don't work.

I try opening chrome again, after ending task for 2 of the 3 background processes for chrome I'm able to use chrome. All of the extensions I have failed, ok. I disable all extensions and try to restart chrome....same problem. OoooK.

So I think, ok, this update completely screwed everything up. Open system restore via an explorer window, select restore point made before the update was made - restore.
Computer reboots...all the same problems. Even says that I have the 10586.122 update...ok that should not be possible. Restart a few more times and on like the 4th time it starts...installing updates. OK. Same problems. More restarts, same problems.
I try restoring to an earlier restore point - 10 seconds after starting restore I get a black screen. I wait like 10 minutes. Try this again several more times, same failure.
OK. I look at my processes in task manager. Service Host: DCOM Server Process Launcher (6) is using 30-40% of my CPU at all times...huh. Google process, says to download some diagnostic tools to fix problem. Alright.

Download and run some windows diagnostic tools (admin), they say everything is fine. Try to run some diagnostic and repair tools downloaded from microsoft.com, the ones that work say everything is fine - the rest hang up when launching like everything else. Try to use run tool to launch them, still hanging up. Ok.

After punching myself in the face for a bit I somehow stumble on some windows update repair tool after pouring through random explorer windows, I run it. Says everything is fine. Run it with admin, says there is a problem with windows updater. Run tool, says the problem has been fixed.

Ok. Restart computer.

Same problems. Nothing has changed.

OOK. Try and start in safe mode, safe mode with networking. Doesn't fucking work. ALRIGHT.

I'm at the end of my rope right now I'm so close to smashing my rig.