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[oneran]

Damn...

Cleared the cache, uninstalled chrome and then reinstalled it, disabled flash but still have the same problem. I posted the problem to the Google support forums.

Youtube loads fine in Firefox so it's directly related to Chrome.

Disable all your extensions restart your browser and reload the page, If the page loads normally enable your extensions one by one to find the culprit (it's most likely an ad-blocker or script blocker if you have one enabled).

So ive been pulling my hair out for quite a bit over an issue I'm having with windows / my SSD.

I left my pc on while at work today to download some games (i have awful internet here )
Basically I came home and my pc wasn't showing an image. and wasn't responding, so I reset it via the power button on the pc to which it instantly shut down (which is odd if its in windows) after this booting it back up windows now completely locks up after ~10 minutes of use before hand its perfectly operable, there is nothing odd being posted in the event viewer. and ive been through a massive troubleshooting session that has lead to me having to reflash my bios :/

and my suspicions are that my SSD is screwing up some how but I have no idea how.
I'm willing to try any thing to avoid wiping my drive just because that takes so much more effort.

I posted this a bit earlier but try running a chkdsk or Disk Check if you haven't already.

You can also check with the manufacture of your ssd, they normally provide you diagnostic tools on their website.

 

[hodgy100]

Disable all your extensions restart your browser and reload the page, If the page loads normally enable your extensions one by one to find the culprit (it's most likely an ad-blocker or script blocker if you have one enabled).



I posted this a bit earlier but try running a chkdsk or Disk Check if you haven't already.

You can also check with the manufacture of your ssd, they normally provide you diagnostic tools on their website.

Yeah I ran those earlier they came back OK. No issues im going to try and just re-install windows

 

[Costia]

Damn...

Cleared the cache, uninstalled chrome and then reinstalled it, disabled flash but still have the same problem. I posted the problem to the Google support forums.

Youtube loads fine in Firefox so it's directly related to Chrome.

Try chrome canary, see if it happens there as well.

 

[hodgy100]

Nah it even freezes up during a windows install. Pretty sure my ssd is just dead will put in an order for a new one. Might even use it as a chance to get a larger one

 

[Joe]

Is there any reason my internet speed has suddenly crapped out on one device?

A month ago I upgraded to 30Mbps and my primary laptop was getting that speed but the past week it's been 5-to-15Mbps. Other devices on the same network are getting 30Mbps.

My browsing habits haven't changed and I have Windows Defender running - I don't think it's a virus/malware but I guess it's possible.

Is there a checklist of troubleshooting I can go through?

 

[Jzero]

Is there any reason my internet speed has suddenly crapped out on one device?

A month ago I upgraded to 30Mbps and my primary laptop was getting that speed but the past week it's been 5-to-15Mbps. Other devices on the same network are getting 30Mbps.

My browsing habits haven't changed and I have Windows Defender running - I don't think it's a virus/malware but I guess it's possible.

Is there a checklist of troubleshooting I can go through?

reboot the router. If you're using cable internet the speeds get lower when more people are using the service. You can also check if your router has QoS enabled and if it's giving preference to your other devices.

 

[Joe]

reboot the router. If you're using cable internet the speeds get lower when more people are using the service. You can also check if your router has QoS enabled and if it's giving preference to your other devices.

Thanks, will try that.

I have tried testing speeds during heavy and light usage and over a period of time and it's pretty consistent, 5-15 on mine, 30 on other laptops.

When I first upgraded I was getting 30 consistently, so something has happened in the past few weeks.

Also I forgo to mention that my upload speed has been great throughout. I get 10Mbps upload consistently even when my download is 5Mb sometimes.

 

[squidyj]

So I recently 'upgraded' to windows 10 and now my Guide Button on my controller cannot be used to bring up the overlay.

So I disabled gamedvr on the xbox app which didn't solve the problem
so I uninstalled the xbox app with powershell which didn't solve the problem. what in the actual fuck are you doing Windows 10?


Edit: Poking around it seems that steam gets the input if I'm not running in exclusive mode
I've tried emiting the guide button from a macro but that doesn't work either, the macro fires and any other output runs correctly but nothing sees the guide button except inputmapper.

 

[Binabik15]

My GF's laptop running Vista SP2 has been highjacked by Wartunes recently (possibly started after she shared her USB stick with one of her friends to have uni files printed). IE will constantly pop-up to the Wartunes log in site. She is using Firefox and Chrome usually, never IE.

Microsoft Security Essentials can't find it. Google search only gives me scammy sounding removal tips and a reddit thread that is only hours old and has people helpless as well.

GAF is full of resourceful IT guys, so I thought I'd ask here.

 

[Jzero]

My GF's laptop running Vista SP2 has been highjacked by Wartunes recently (possibly started after she shared her USB stick with one of her friends to have uni files printed). IE will constantly pop-up to the Wartunes log in site. She is using Firefox and Chrome usually, never IE.

Microsoft Security Essentials can't find it. Google search only gives me scammy sounding removal tips and a reddit thread that is only hours old and has people helpless as well.

GAF is full of resourceful IT guys, so I thought I'd ask here.

https://www.malwarebytes.org/mwb-download/thankyou/

 

[Saiyan-Rox]

Guys how much recourses does Truck sim at Max require? I can't run on ultra higher than 30FPS

I swear my rig always gives me an issue with FPS on games :/ I couldn't even run BL2 with physx on high without drops. Bare in mind i could be over thinking how powered my rig is.

I5 3rd gen 3570k (overclocked to 4.2)
12GB ram
GTX 980

 

[ChoklitReign]

This is a very, very serious issue - my laptop has twice shut down randomly - no shutting down screen, it's plugged in, it just dies. The first time it could have been a weird fluke - it's been on for a while, like usual, but it shut down when I was listening to music in Foobar and had Chrome open (also Airdroid but that's the only other notable program that could have remotely caused this). I booted up again and this time it lasted only 20 minutes. Is it a hardware defect or one of those recent Windows 10 bugs? I bought the laptop in July of 2015 and have had no problems since then. Should I return it?

Specs:
Lenovo Thinkpad Yoga 15
Intel Core i5 5200U
Windows 10 Professional (came with 8.1)
GeForce 840M
8GB DDR3 1600MHz
180GB SSD SATA III
(Fuck, I think the warranty was only a year old)
4 Cell Li-Polymer battery

 

[Anfang]

This is a very, very serious issue - my laptop has twice shut down randomly - no shutting down screen, it's plugged in, it just dies. The first time it could have been a weird fluke - it's been on for a while, like usual, but it shut down when I was listening to music in Foobar and had Chrome open (also Airdroid but that's the only other notable program that could have remotely caused this). I booted up again and this time it lasted only 20 minutes. Is it a hardware defect or one of those recent Windows 10 bugs? I bought the laptop in July of 2015 and have had no problems since then. Should I return it?

Specs:
Lenovo Thinkpad Yoga 15
Intel Core i5 5200U
Windows 10 Professional (came with 8.1)
GeForce 840M
8GB DDR3 1600MHz
180GB SSD SATA III
(Fuck, I think the warranty was only a year old)
4 Cell Li-Polymer battery

I would return it if I was you, as for the problem though most obvious culprit would be overheating.

 

[ChoklitReign]

Can I tell if it's overheating with a program like HWMonitor? It's always on a TV dinner table in a room temperature room; it would have to be a hardware defect.

 

[Anfang]

Can I tell if it's overheating with a program like HWMonitor? It's always on a TV dinner table in a room temperature room; it would have to be a hardware defect.

Yeap OHM would work, and it would only take the cpu fan not working to cause the issue. Still would ask for a new one though.

 

[Arsenic]

Not so much a tech problem but...

I have an old rig built in 2011 with all parts except the harddrives that I want to donate and not sell. Any idea where I can do this in NYC? I prefer to education establishments so kids and tear it up and go crazy on it without worrying.


FYI, I've already emailed my HS about it and I havent received a response.

 

[RedSwirl]

In iOS Safari View Controller no longer loads pages from any non-Safari app.

On Windows 10 whenever I come out of sleep mode the Intel HD drivers constantly crash and momentarily freeze the screen. The computer shouldn't even be using the integrated GPU since it has a dedicated one (it's a laptop), but I can't figure out how to fully switch to the dedicated GPU.

 

[Joe]

Windows 10 and WiFi issues.... Continuation from here

• Upgraded to 30Mbps internet but my laptop on wifi would never get above 20Mbps
• All other devices on same network get 30Mbps consistently
• Upgraded to Windows 10 then did a clean install to see if it would fix it but it didn't
• Hooked the laptop straight to ethernet and it gets 30Mbps consistently
• With WiFi the interet cuts out/completely hangs for about 30 seconds every 10 minutes

This is what my device manager looks like:

The specs on my machine list the WiMax version as the network adapter but there is no Windows 10 driver for that device. It automatically installed the other version which may or may not be the same device?

I've done all the Windows updates, reset the router, there is also no QoS setting enabled.

I'm wondering if it's a driver issue? Is it possible to get a generic Windows 10 driver?

Would a USB WiFi stick work?

 

[ChoklitReign]

Yeap OHM would work, and it would only take the cpu fan not working to cause the issue. Still would ask for a new one though.

I diagnosed temperatures et al. with HWMonitor and nothing looks abnormal to me. To test the CPU I ran AVG and Malwarebytes and the only things they found were two tracking cookies. It's already stayed on longer than the last time so I'm going to keep it idle until it happens again.

CPU (Core i5 5200U)
Avg temp range: 35-55 C Max: 69 C
Max clock: 2500 MHz (briefly ticked to 2700 MHz)
Idle clock: 800 MHz
Voltage range: 0.672-1.085

SSD
Avg temp range: 22-29 C Max: 31 C

Update: Been using my laptop for 24 hours with zero problems so I guess shit just happens.

 

[encephalon]

Hey guys. When I plug in my laptop to my TV via HDMI, I have no problem watching movies, listening to music, or seemingly playing other games. But when I tried to play Minecraft, my soundblaster card gave me all sorts of error messages that it might not exist and attempting to ignore it and play Minecraft just resulted in it bringing me back to the error message. So I selected "Realtek" and I have no sound.

Does anyone know why this might be? This is on Windows 10. And it seems to be just Minecraft.

 

[Duplolas]

Hey guys, I am getting huge ping spikes on my computer for no reason.

None of my roommates ever get them, just me.

The weird thing is, this has been happening to me for the past year and a half. I have moved two a new apartment in that time and it still does it!

I've scanned my computer for trojans, but nothing is there. I also just bought a brand new $80 router I researched before I bought.

I have even used gaming vpns before and they don't even work!

What is going on???

 

[cpp_is_king]

Edit: Deleted.

 

[thecosmicfly]

Having some trouble with installing Windows 10 here.

I've recently been trying to make the switch over from 32 bit to 64 bit. This is the guide I've primarily been following with some general googling in between, but for the most part it's been this step by step. I managed to upgrade my computer from Win 7 to Win 10 no trouble, and now I'm trying to perform a clean install of Windows 10 64 Bit from a USB flash drive. Have followed all the steps in the guide thus far, but when I click "Install Now" this is what I'm presented with:

Haven't got a clue what to do and there's so much confusion surrounding it from what I've searched that I don't know what to do. I redownloaded/formatted the USB flash drive again just in case it was a bad ISO but the issue is still the same.

I'll probably go out and buy a new flash drive/DVD RW tomorrow but if anyone knows of a solution right now I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Freezasaurus]

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of an issue here with Firefox. A little while ago, I started getting an issue where everytime I open up a new browser tab (even if it's just an options menu or something), I get a pop-up from Malwarebytes telling me it blocked something from "ocsp.digicert.com." Malwarebytes and the antivirus software aren't detecting any viruses but it keeps popping up every time a new page loads. I went through my cookies and deleted a ton of old stuff and cookies with names I didn't recognize, which seemed to fix things for a bit, but then the issue came back. Any ideas as to what could be causing this and how to get rid of it?

Update: Did another virus scan, and it found about 20 low-threat tracking cookies. Opened up Firefox afterward and everything seems okay for now. I only tried sites I was pretty sure weren't the source of the initial infection, (if that's what this is) and it hasn't popped up yet.

 

[RGM79]

Having some trouble with installing Windows 10 here.

I've recently been trying to make the switch over from 32 bit to 64 bit. This is the guide I've primarily been following with some general googling in between, but for the most part it's been this step by step. I managed to upgrade my computer from Win 7 to Win 10 no trouble, and now I'm trying to perform a clean install of Windows 10 64 Bit from a USB flash drive. Have followed all the steps in the guide thus far, but when I click "Install Now" this is what I'm presented with:

Haven't got a clue what to do and there's so much confusion surrounding it from what I've searched that I don't know what to do. I redownloaded/formatted the USB flash drive again just in case it was a bad ISO but the issue is still the same.

I'll probably go out and buy a new flash drive/DVD RW tomorrow but if anyone knows of a solution right now I'd really appreciate it.

What are your PC's specs? Most importantly, the motherboard model? Did you plug the USB drive into a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port?

 

[Northeastmonk]

What are your PC's specs? Most importantly, the motherboard model? Did you plug the USB drive into a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port?

I was wondering about compatibility myself, Windows should be pretty good at getting drivers. I am a tad bit confused on this entire process but I didn't have to upgrade from 32 to 64 bit.

My son's computer is a home built Windows 7 machine, about 12-18 months old, I don't recall exactly. In the last day or so, the monitor is no longer getting a dvi signal. I have tried a different cable with the same result. What do I try next?

So it doesn't work on any other machine? I'm wondering if a converter would work, is it only DVI? I would test it out on another machine and if not I'd look into getting a new monitor or possibly look to see if the model has some drivers out there in device manager or possibly you need something to get that running perhaps? I'm thinking you need to test it out on another computer first.

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of an issue here with Firefox. A little while ago, I started getting an issue where everytime I open up a new browser tab (even if it's just an options menu or something), I get a pop-up from Malwarebytes telling me it blocked something from "ocsp.digicert.com." Malwarebytes and the antivirus software aren't detecting any viruses but it keeps popping up every time a new page loads. I went through my cookies and deleted a ton of old stuff and cookies with names I didn't recognize, which seemed to fix things for a bit, but then the issue came back. Any ideas as to what could be causing this and how to get rid of it?

Update: Did another virus scan, and it found about 20 low-threat tracking cookies. Opened up Firefox afterward and everything seems okay for now. I only tried sites I was pretty sure weren't the source of the initial infection, (if that's what this is) and it hasn't popped up yet.

I'd run your antivirus in safe mode and I'd grab some utility tools, which I can't think of, basically a good antivirus software and malwarebytes. I'd look at removing this hijacking virus from your web browsers like Chrome, Firefox, etc. manually while in safe mode?

From what I'm seeing it's a bad virus. I'm a noob at tech support, but I'm learning. I have a job in IT, so I'll try to respond to the best of my knowledge. I would do some more research on this. Make sure you aren't opening up this virus to your entire system! I'd also see if you have anything that needs to be uninstalled as well, anything out of the ordinary I'd uninstall. Maybe even reinstall Firefox after you do the scan?

 

[thecosmicfly]

What are your PC's specs? Most importantly, the motherboard model? Did you plug the USB drive into a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port?

Here's the specs I posted in PCGAF when I was upgrading the memory.

Motherboard:
Manufacturer – ASUSTeK Computer INC.
Model – M5A78L-M LX V2
CPU - AMD FX(tm)-4100 Quad-Core Processor
CPU Speed - 3.60 GHz
RAM - 4.00 GB (3.25 useable)
Graphics - AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series
Gaming graphics - 2431 MB Total (1024 MB dedicated graphics memory)
HDD - 519GB Free (931GB Total)
PSU – 750W

The difference now is I have 8GB of RAM instead of 4 (Only 3.25 still useable though, obviously). The only thing I could see hardware wise preventing me from switching to 64 bit is if my CPU doesn't have PAE, SSE2, and NX.

I know it doesn't list all of them there, but every other check I've done has told me it's a x64 based processor, along with the guides I've read saying the install should automatically update any necessary drivers. I thought that during the install setup it would clearly tell me if my CPU was compatible or not, then I could comfortably go back to the drawing board, but I don't know if this is the PC's way of saying "nah can't upgrade brah" or if some other factor is going wrong for now. I know that there might be some BIOS stuff I might need to tinker with first but again I figured I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

As far as USB ports go I wouldn't know which ones are which from a glance.

Still new to understanding this USB port stuff, so a lot of these should be internal/virtual, right? I only tried the 2 front USB ports the first time around mind you, there's still 2 free ones on the back.

In any case, I'm heading to Staples in a couple of hours to pick up some DVD RW's and cheap USB flash drives. Don't mind doing it either way at this point, but what do you find is the easier and more reliable way to create bootable media on?

 

[RGM79]

Here's the specs I posted in PCGAF when I was upgrading the memory.

Motherboard:
Manufacturer – ASUSTeK Computer INC.
Model – M5A78L-M LX V2
CPU - AMD FX(tm)-4100 Quad-Core Processor
CPU Speed - 3.60 GHz
RAM - 4.00 GB (3.25 useable)
Graphics - AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series
Gaming graphics - 2431 MB Total (1024 MB dedicated graphics memory)
HDD - 519GB Free (931GB Total)
PSU – 750W

The difference now is I have 8GB of RAM instead of 4 (Only 3.25 still useable though, obviously). The only thing I could see hardware wise preventing me from switching to 64 bit is if my CPU doesn't have PAE, SSE2, and NX.

I know it doesn't list all of them there, but every other check I've done has told me it's a x64 based processor, along with the guides I've read saying the install should automatically update any necessary drivers. I thought that during the install setup it would clearly tell me if my CPU was compatible or not, then I could comfortably go back to the drawing board, but I don't know if this is the PC's way of saying "nah can't upgrade brah" or if some other factor is going wrong for now. I know that there might be some BIOS stuff I might need to tinker with first but again I figured I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

As far as USB ports go I wouldn't know which ones are which from a glance.

Still new to understanding this USB port stuff, so a lot of these should be internal/virtual, right? I only tried the 2 front USB ports the first time around mind you, there's still 2 free ones on the back.

In any case, I'm heading to Staples in a couple of hours to pick up some DVD RW's and cheap USB flash drives. Don't mind doing it either way at this point, but what do you find is the easier and more reliable way to create bootable media on?

I haven't had many issues booting from USB unless it was on a >10 year old PC, but I guess booting from DVD should be foolproof.

As for the USB ports, I'm actually asking about the physical ports. USB 3.0 ports are blue and USB 2.0 ports are black. I ask because the Windows installer doesn't necessarily work flawlessly from a USB 3.0 port. Even if it loads, it may ask for a USB 3.0 driver before continuing. Alternatively, it might be asking for SATA drivers.

Edit: I rechecked your motherboard model's official specs and it doesn't have USB 3.0 ports. It is probably be asking for SATA drivers, although it's still weird that it doesn't already support it.

Unfortunately, your motherboard is old enough that it doesn't have full Windows 10 driver support from Asus. The latest files listed for SATA drivers are under the Windows 7 section. Here's the link, click on the bottom-most category labeled "SATA". I have no idea which driver you need exactly, so you're going to have to download both the ones titled "AMD AHCI Driver" and "Asmedia 106x Driver". Extract them to separate folders and copy them to the Windows 10 USB drive. When you come across the error again, point the Windows 10 installer to the drivers contained inside those folders.

 

[Benedict]

I'm having problems with my computer getting stuck when trying to boot up.

This has started happening the last months and did not occur before.
Is there something wrong with the motherboard?
I have four external HDDS connected to USB.
If I disconnect one or two USB-cables and restart, the computer will boot into windows and I can then plug in the cables.

The computer is from 2009 but I've exchanged a lot of it's parts, except motherboard and cpu.
Motherboard: Asus P5Q PRO, P45, Socket-775, DDR2
Chassi: NZXT HUSH
PSU: Corsair Powersupply 550W
I have a extra card for four extra USB 3 ports.

 

[thecosmicfly]

I haven't had many issues booting from USB unless it was on a >10 year old PC, but I guess booting from DVD should be foolproof.

In that case I'll burn the ISO to a DVD and try that way. If it means skipping these driver issues for now then all the better. Still, I'll search and download those SATA drivers you suggested for the USB flash drive just in case the DVD route doesn't prove fruitful. Thanks for the help.

 

[RGM79]

I'm having problems with my computer getting stuck when trying to boot up.

This has started happening the last months and did not occur before.
Is there something wrong with the motherboard?
I have four external HDDS connected to USB.
If I disconnect one or two USB-cables and restart, the computer will boot into windows and I can then plug in the cables.

The computer is from 2009 but I've exchanged a lot of it's parts, except motherboard and cpu.
Motherboard: Asus P5Q PRO, P45, Socket-775, DDR2
Chassi: NZXT HUSH
PSU: Corsair Powersupply 550W
I have a extra card for four extra USB 3 ports.

It sounds like one or more of the external hard drives you have plugged in has a bootloader partition on it, and the motherboard detects it and is trying to boot from it.

With your computer on and all external drives connected, can you take a screenshot of the Disk Management window? What's important is the bottom half of the window that shows each drive and the various partitions on each drive.

In that case I'll burn the ISO to a DVD and try that way. If it means skipping these driver issues for now then all the better. Still, I'll search and download those SATA drivers you suggested for the USB flash drive just in case the DVD route doesn't prove fruitful. Thanks for the help.

Sorry, I realized I forgot to include the link to the driver downloads on the Asus website. There you go, I also edited my post to include the link.

 

[Benedict]

It sounds like one or more of the external hard drives you have plugged in has a bootloader partition on it, and the motherboard detects it and is trying to boot from it.

With your computer on and all external drives connected, can you take a screenshot of the Disk Management window? What's important is the bottom half of the window that shows each drive and the various partitions on each drive.

Thanks for your help.
Here it is, in Swedish, but I hope you understand anyway.

 

[RGM79]

Thanks for your help.
Here it is, in Swedish, but I hope you understand anyway.

Okay, nothing appears to be out of the ordinary. When the computer fails to start, is there any message or words on the screen? Is it a specific external drive that always causes the failure to start?

 

[Benedict]

Okay, nothing appears to be out of the ordinary. When the computer fails to start, is there any message or words on the screen? Is it a specific external drive that always causes the failure to start?

Nope, it just seems to wait for it to "discover" all of the connected harddrives.
I'm not sure which it is.
For a while I thought it was my USB3 card but it seems like that is not the case.
When I unplug two of the external drives it seems to work. Not sure which of them it is.
Both of them are connected to USB-ports on my monitor.
Since that was a workaround that worked before.

 

[Flandy]

Any particular reason why my freshly installed windows 10 takes so long to boot on my brand new Samsung Evo 850?
http://youtu.be/H1uePWv8wJ8

edit: Turns out it just takes longer when restarting than it does from a cold boot

 

[Freezasaurus]

I'd run your antivirus in safe mode and I'd grab some utility tools, which I can't think of, basically a good antivirus software and malwarebytes. I'd look at removing this hijacking virus from your web browsers like Chrome, Firefox, etc. manually while in safe mode?

From what I'm seeing it's a bad virus. I'm a noob at tech support, but I'm learning. I have a job in IT, so I'll try to respond to the best of my knowledge. I would do some more research on this. Make sure you aren't opening up this virus to your entire system! I'd also see if you have anything that needs to be uninstalled as well, anything out of the ordinary I'd uninstall. Maybe even reinstall Firefox after you do the scan?

Hey, thanks for the suggestions. As it turns out, it was a false-positive from Malwarebytes that only occured with Mozilla products, and it seems I wasn't the only one having the issue. They already pushed through the update to fix it. Thanks anyway, though.

 

[thecosmicfly]

Just popping in to say that I managed to complete the clean install. Was kind of worried/stressed at first because the first disc I tried to burn didn't verify properly after it was done, and was starting to think that maybe the ISO from Microsoft's website was just borked or something. Downloaded a third party burner instead and just to be sure verified it twice, both times came back with no errors. After all that the installation went so smoothly.

 

[Talents]

Nvm fixed it.

 

[Jyrii]

I have pretty old build of P6X58D-E motherboard, i7 950 processor and Asus HD5870 GPU. The GPU is connected to Onkyo amplifier via HDMI, and that is connected to TV also via HDMI. I am using 5.0 setup of speakers.

I am on 64-bit Windows 7 and have set it to use 5.0 audio. I am using the Windows 7 default driver as the Realtek one somehow didn't work for surround.

The problem is that sound is interrupted in gaming cutscenes (video) for every 20-30 seconds or so, and the sound is out of sync. This only happens with video cutscenes, in game engine cutscenes don't seem to have this problem nor the games themselves. I am not sure if this happens on all games that have video cutscenes, but the latest culprit is Murdered: Soul Suspect.

I thought Asus's TurboV might have caused it, so I uninstalled it. I also deactivated Intel TurboMode Tech in BIOS. Intel SpeedStep Tech is still enabled. The problem still consists. I am using ffdshow-codecs for video. I can try to uninstall them tonight to see if that has any effect.

Does anyone have any idea what else I could try next?

 

[Jyrii]

Bah I tried disabling both Intel SpeedStep Tech and TurboMode Tech but no effect. Uninstalling ffdshow didn't have any effect either.

Any ideas?

 

[Big Chungus]

nm found the problem

 

[Karak]

Bah I tried disabling both Intel SpeedStep Tech and TurboMode Tech but no effect. Uninstalling ffdshow didn't have any effect either.

Any ideas?

FFdshow was going to be mine.

First figure out your original questions.
Is it all games or 1? Thats a massive issue right there and needs to be the first check.

Also go into the game files and see if you can find the movie files and play them separately and verify they don't judder as single entities in Windows.

Small things:
Mae sure your config is right for the speaker settings including their hertz level
Properties then advanced when in the sound mixer bar and highlighting whatever your output stream. Its probably going to be 16bit, 44100 hz. Regardless change it around and see what happens.

 

[Rhomega Beta]

I came back from dinner to find my desktop computer turned off. When I turned it on, it says that it shut down because the battery was low. What is it talking about? The UPS? Something else? This has never happened before.

 

[Jyrii]

FFdshow was going to be mine.

First figure out your original questions.
Is it all games or 1? Thats a massive issue right there and needs to be the first check.

Also go into the game files and see if you can find the movie files and play them separately and verify they don't judder as single entities in Windows.

Small things:
Mae sure your config is right for the speaker settings including their hertz level
Properties then advanced when in the sound mixer bar and highlighting whatever your output stream. Its probably going to be 16bit, 44100 hz. Regardless change it around and see what happens.

Thanks

I actually just realized that I also have Media Player Classic - Home Cinema installed. In the past it was just executable, but now it is installed instead. I'm gonna try uninstalling both ffdshow and MPC tonight.

 

[zulux21]

hopefully this is an easy one.

anyone know a program that allows you to put a sleep timer on your computer (aka I put in two hours and my computer goes to sleep) much like a sleep timer works on a tv?

I was hoping to do it with in computer settings but no matter what I change the computer won't go to sleep while streaming video, and I want it to go to sleep so I can not waste bandwidth while I am personally sleeping >.<:

im on windows 7 and already switch the multimedia settings to allow my computer to sleep while watching videos.

 

[Rktk]

hopefully this is an easy one.

anyone know a program that allows you to put a sleep timer on your computer (aka I put in two hours and my computer goes to sleep) much like a sleep timer works on a tv?

I was hoping to do it with in computer settings but no matter what I change the computer won't go to sleep while streaming video, and I want it to go to sleep so I can not waste bandwidth while I am personally sleeping >.<:

im on windows 7 and already switch the multimedia settings to allow my computer to sleep while watching videos.

I use this, free version has timer and clock trigger.

http://tinnes.co.uk/shutdown/index.php

 

[Consul]

hopefully this is an easy one.

anyone know a program that allows you to put a sleep timer on your computer (aka I put in two hours and my computer goes to sleep) much like a sleep timer works on a tv?

I was hoping to do it with in computer settings but no matter what I change the computer won't go to sleep while streaming video, and I want it to go to sleep so I can not waste bandwidth while I am personally sleeping >.<:

im on windows 7 and already switch the multimedia settings to allow my computer to sleep while watching videos.

Let me know if this helps:

Open Notepad

Copy and paste the following:

timeout /t 7200
rundll32.exe powrprof.dll,SetSuspendState 0,1,0

Save as .bat e.g (2hoursleep.bat) and then run it before you go to sleep.

 

[Solideliquid]

I'm trying to install Windows 10 on my Late 2014 5K iMac. Boot camp copies the files to the USB on the OSX side, and then I partition the HD. It then restarts right back into OSX, I have to wait there and hold OPTION and tell it to boot into Windows. It then starts to install Windows, and I can get to the Windows desktop. At which point boot camp installs the drivers, but it gets stuck at the audio (Realtek) drivers and stays there forever. I have to restart, and then Windows starts up normally, but I don't have audio, and later, things like are not working right. For example, menu items on the START menu are scrambled and illegible.

Any ideas? I've tried reinstalling (erasing the partition) twice with the same results.


Thanks!

 

[zulux21]

I use this, free version has timer and clock trigger.

http://tinnes.co.uk/shutdown/index.php

thanks, giving this a try right now.

edit: worked like a charm.

Let me know if this helps:

Open Notepad

Copy and paste the following:

timeout /t 7200
rundll32.exe powrprof.dll,SetSuspendState 0,1,0

Save as .bat e.g (2hoursleep.bat) and then run it before you go to sleep.

that is a beautiful solution that I am tempted to use even if the first response works, thanks for the response.

 

[Zepp Twofist]

that is a beautiful solution that I am tempted to use even if the first response works, thanks for the response.

You can also just run "shutdown /s /t 7200" in a command line (or put it in a bat file like that other solution). If you want to shut down at the same time every day, you can create it as a recurring task in Task Scheduler.