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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
DeathGlobe
Member
whats a recommended fan speed to set for afterburner. I feel the auto isnt cutting it I think its causing the gpu to get hotter than it should or it could be the shitty nvidia drivers I read about either way I am getting blurry textures even when browsing it makes the words have a ghost effect
Edit turns out it was this Trace free shit on my monitor
Edit turns out it was this Trace free shit on my monitor
Jane Mansfield
Banned
I have updated my laptop HP Pavilion dv6 2144nr from Windows 7 to Windows 10 back in late July, and now I'm having problems booting up Windows. Everytime I press the power button, the laptop doesn't boot up, but the led lights for the cap lock key and num lock key blink twice. The HP website indicates is a BIOS corruption failure so I need to update BIOS. In the HP driver download page, there is no BIOS update for Windows 10,but I have noticed that there is BIOS update for Windows 7.
The question is, may I use BIOS update for Windows 7 on Windows 10 ?
And in general, are BIOS updates OS dependant ?
Edit: Also, the screen goes randomly black.
The question is, may I use BIOS update for Windows 7 on Windows 10 ?
And in general, are BIOS updates OS dependant ?
Edit: Also, the screen goes randomly black.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Going by what you said, you've been running W10 since July? So yeah, it should work.
I did the same thing for my mom's laptop few months back.
Problem is, I checked the BIOS on HP support page. It is an exe file, which needs a functioning OS to execute. Which you don't.
Can you still boot into the BIOS itself?
Jane Mansfield
Banned
^ The OS is still functioning. Eventually the laptop boots up just fine. Right now, the not-booting-up-at-start is an annoyance. Also, it seems the black screens occur either while the laptop boots up or after waking it up from sleep mode.
EDIT - It worked! I updated the BIOS in Windows after it booted just fine, hoping the laptop doesn't go black screen. Now everything looks fine. Thanks for the answer. ^_^
EDIT - It worked! I updated the BIOS in Windows after it booted just fine, hoping the laptop doesn't go black screen. Now everything looks fine. Thanks for the answer. ^_^
Ok so weird problem (maybe??).
I upgraded my graphics card today to an MSI Gaming X 6GB GTX 1060 and it works beautifully despite my having to cram it into the case (the grill that i screw onto the case itself to hold in position was a bit big but it clicked in and Win10 recognizes it ok plus Witcher 3 looks gorgeous now so I assume its ok...)
Anyway i had it all up and running earlier, everything great - checking fan speeds and temps with MSI AfterBurner...but when I shut down Witcher 3 especially and goto the case its FREAKING HOT to the touch - like i had to switch the whole thing down and let it cool.
Now its possible its my case is too small and airflow is therefore severely limited now I've crammed a beastly GTX1060 into it...but thoughts?
Do I need a new case?
I like this one I'm using now as it sits comfortably under my TV Table and to go mid-tower would be a bit awkward at the moment...
Appreciate all thoughts and help.
Specs are:
Thanks!
I upgraded my graphics card today to an MSI Gaming X 6GB GTX 1060 and it works beautifully despite my having to cram it into the case (the grill that i screw onto the case itself to hold in position was a bit big but it clicked in and Win10 recognizes it ok plus Witcher 3 looks gorgeous now so I assume its ok...)
Anyway i had it all up and running earlier, everything great - checking fan speeds and temps with MSI AfterBurner...but when I shut down Witcher 3 especially and goto the case its FREAKING HOT to the touch - like i had to switch the whole thing down and let it cool.
Now its possible its my case is too small and airflow is therefore severely limited now I've crammed a beastly GTX1060 into it...but thoughts?
Do I need a new case?
I like this one I'm using now as it sits comfortably under my TV Table and to go mid-tower would be a bit awkward at the moment...
Appreciate all thoughts and help.
Specs are:
- Case: Fractal Design Node 605 Desktop Aluminium Case
- RAM: 16GB Corsair Dominator
- CPU: Intel i5 4670
- CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i Low Profile Intel CPU Cooler
- Graphics: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 Gaming X 6GB Video Card
- Mobo: MSI Z97 Gaming 5 Intel LGA 1150 ATX Motherboard
- PSU: Corsair RM750i 750W 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply
- SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD MZ-75E500
Thanks!
Jezbollah
Member
Hi Mulac, I just did a google search and it could well be that your case is focused on being a HTPC unit, and doesnt have enough airflow getting to the card. I'd be inclined to take a look at a FD Define R5. Might even be worth slinging in a 120mm or 140mm noctua fan in the front of the case to feed your 1060. If you need to keep the form factor to HTPC then maybe take a look at the NODE 202. I don't think theres any real way to avoid a lot of heat if you're going to stay with HTPC cases - but the 202 does allow separate chambers for better cooling.
Jzero
Member
Your case is made of metal that's why you can feel the heat easier. If the case has extra mounting points definitely put more case fans inside. What does your table look like? Cases need a couple of inches of space on all sides and if it's inside a TV table that can be the source of the trapped heat
Thanks - got it. I'm monitoring the graphics card temps and it never goes above 70 celcius during Witcher 3 (which is the only game i'm playing at the moment so best benchmark).
There's plenty of space around it - case is sitting on the floor actually right next to a patio window...see this photo:
I guess not enough air getting to the graphics card then causing whole case to heat up - any suggestions for a similar one?
Yeah figure'd as much - will check out those two cases - like I said i just want to keep the case sitting under my tv if possible otherwise will have to sit over to the side in a mid case...
Jzero
Member
If the temperature monitor says it's fine then it's fine. Like i said, metal conducts heat way easier than plastic. Putting the case on the floor is a terrible idea though, that's where the most dust collects. Good thing you don't have a carpet.
Anyone know of any weird settings which controls screen timeout/locking settings in Windows 10 (in Group Policy or otherwise)?
Since upgrading all our company PCs/laptops to Windows 10 (as well as fresh installs), PCs are locking after idling for just 5 minutes. I'm guessing there's some legacy screen saver or power policy buried in GPO somewhere causing a conflict, but I've had no luck finding it so far.
I did spot Interactive logon: Machine inactivity limit was set to 5 minutes, but changing it didn't make a lick of difference - even after rebooting numerous client machines and forcing GPOs to sync... Also the screen saver is set to 'None' so I don't think it's that.
And to clarify, this wasn't happening with Windows 7 machines.
---
EDIT: I fixed it. Well, sort of... It was definitely screen saver shenanigans, but I swear I ran reports and searched for ages and found nothing explicitly mentioning screen saver. In the end I just created my own user policy with a 10 minute screen saver and it seems to have overridden whatever was being applied before. But the only GPO higher than the one I created is the Default Domain Policy and that 100% did not have any screen saver settings in it.
Since upgrading all our company PCs/laptops to Windows 10 (as well as fresh installs), PCs are locking after idling for just 5 minutes. I'm guessing there's some legacy screen saver or power policy buried in GPO somewhere causing a conflict, but I've had no luck finding it so far.
I did spot Interactive logon: Machine inactivity limit was set to 5 minutes, but changing it didn't make a lick of difference - even after rebooting numerous client machines and forcing GPOs to sync... Also the screen saver is set to 'None' so I don't think it's that.
And to clarify, this wasn't happening with Windows 7 machines.
---
EDIT: I fixed it. Well, sort of... It was definitely screen saver shenanigans, but I swear I ran reports and searched for ages and found nothing explicitly mentioning screen saver. In the end I just created my own user policy with a 10 minute screen saver and it seems to have overridden whatever was being applied before. But the only GPO higher than the one I created is the Default Domain Policy and that 100% did not have any screen saver settings in it.
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/35476/in-win-303-mid-tower-chassis-black
In Win 303 - this would look great in my living room - but worried about temps and airflow with the GTX1060 now...
So 3 of these bad boys should help...
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/27872/noctua-nf-a14-industrial-ppc-140mm-2000rpm-pwm-fan
What do you experts reckon?
In Win 303 - this would look great in my living room - but worried about temps and airflow with the GTX1060 now...
So 3 of these bad boys should help...
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/27872/noctua-nf-a14-industrial-ppc-140mm-2000rpm-pwm-fan
What do you experts reckon?
br0ken_shad0w
Member
Logitech's warranty is pretty great. My G602 has been acting up, emailed tech support, and they sent me a replacement right away. Didn't even have to ship my old one back.
Nostremitus
Member
Hello all.
My wife's computer has started freezing while playing Dragon Age Inquisition. She's played through the game probably a dozen times.
CTR+ALT+DEL doesn't work. It's a hard freeze.
Below are the errors reported leading up until I had to manually reboot. Note, that for some reason, they are out of sequence, chronologically...
My wife's computer has started freezing while playing Dragon Age Inquisition. She's played through the game probably a dozen times.
She really like Bioware games
CTR+ALT+DEL doesn't work. It's a hard freeze.
Below are the errors reported leading up until I had to manually reboot. Note, that for some reason, they are out of sequence, chronologically...
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: Win32k
Date: 9/16/2016 11:29:42 AM
Event ID: 263
Task Category: None
Level: Warning
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
The description for Event ID 263 from source Win32k cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.
If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.
The following information was included with the event:
The specified resource type cannot be found in the image file
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Win32k" />
<EventID Qualifiers="32768">263</EventID>
<Level>3</Level>
<Task>0</Task>
<Keywords>0x80000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:29:42.967076000Z" />
<EventRecordID>9125</EventRecordID>
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data>
</Data>
<Binary>00000000010000000000000007010080000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000</Binary>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: Win32k
Date: 9/16/2016 11:29:43 AM
Event ID: 263
Task Category: None
Level: Warning
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
The description for Event ID 263 from source Win32k cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer.
If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event.
The following information was included with the event:
The specified resource type cannot be found in the image file
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Win32k" />
<EventID Qualifiers="32768">263</EventID>
<Level>3</Level>
<Task>0</Task>
<Keywords>0x80000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:29:43.509010300Z" />
<EventRecordID>9128</EventRecordID>
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data>
</Data>
<Binary>00000000010000000000000007010080000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000</Binary>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: Microsoft-Windows-TaskScheduler
Date: 9/16/2016 11:29:43 AM
Event ID: 414
Task Category: Task Misconfiguration
Level: Warning
Keywords:
User: SYSTEM
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASK\Microsoft\Windows\Workplace Join\Automatic-Workplace-Join definition. Additional Data: Error Value: %SystemRoot%\System32\AutoWorkplace.exe.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-TaskScheduler" Guid="{DE7B24EA-73C8-4A09-985D-5BDADCFA9017}" />
<EventID>414</EventID>
<Version>0</Version>
<Level>3</Level>
<Task>414</Task>
<Opcode>0</Opcode>
<Keywords>0x4000000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:29:43.797469300Z" />
<EventRecordID>9134</EventRecordID>
<Correlation />
<Execution ProcessID="584" ThreadID="1132" />
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
</System>
<EventData Name="TaskMisconfigured">
<Data Name="TaskName">NT TASK\Microsoft\Windows\Workplace Join\Automatic-Workplace-Join</Data>
<Data Name="Parameter">%SystemRoot%\System32\AutoWorkplace.exe</Data>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: Microsoft-Windows-DistributedCOM
Date: 9/16/2016 11:29:52 AM
Event ID: 10016
Task Category: None
Level: Error
Keywords: Classic
User: SYSTEM
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
{8D8F4F83-3594-4F07-8369-FC3C3CAE4919}
and APPID
{F72671A9-012C-4725-9D2F-2A4D32D65169}
to the user NT AUTHORITY\SYSTEM SID (S-1-5-18) from address LocalHost (Using LRPC) running in the application container Unavailable SID (Unavailable). This security permission can be modified using the Component Services administrative tool.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-DistributedCOM" Guid="{1B562E86-B7AA-4131-BADC-B6F3A001407E}" EventSourceName="DCOM" />
<EventID Qualifiers="0">10016</EventID>
<Version>0</Version>
<Level>2</Level>
<Task>0</Task>
<Opcode>0</Opcode>
<Keywords>0x8080000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:29:52.027226600Z" />
<EventRecordID>9140</EventRecordID>
<Correlation />
<Execution ProcessID="956" ThreadID="1004" />
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data Name="param1">application-specific</Data>
<Data Name="param2">Local</Data>
<Data Name="param3">Activation</Data>
<Data Name="param4">{8D8F4F83-3594-4F07-8369-FC3C3CAE4919}</Data>
<Data Name="param5">{F72671A9-012C-4725-9D2F-2A4D32D65169}</Data>
<Data Name="param6">NT AUTHORITY</Data>
<Data Name="param7">SYSTEM</Data>
<Data Name="param8">S-1-5-18</Data>
<Data Name="param9">LocalHost (Using LRPC)</Data>
<Data Name="param10">Unavailable</Data>
<Data Name="param11">Unavailable</Data>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: EventLog
Date: 9/16/2016 11:38:49 AM
Event ID: 6008
Task Category: None
Level: Error
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
The previous system shutdown at 11:35:43 on ‎16/‎09/‎2016 was unexpected.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="EventLog" />
<EventID Qualifiers="32768">6008</EventID>
<Level>2</Level>
<Task>0</Task>
<Keywords>0x80000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:38:49.355701500Z" />
<EventRecordID>9153</EventRecordID>
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data>11:35:43</Data>
<Data>‎16/‎09/‎2016</Data>
<Data>
</Data>
<Data>
</Data>
<Data>370</Data>
<Data>
</Data>
<Data>
</Data>
<Binary>E0070900050010000B0023002B001B02E007090005001000020023002B001B023C0000003C000000000000000000000000000000000000000100000000000000</Binary>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: Microsoft-Windows-EnhancedStorage-EhStorTcgDrv
Date: 9/16/2016 11:38:40 AM
Event ID: 10
Task Category: Driver
Level: Error
Keywords:
User: SYSTEM
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
A TCG Command has returned an error.
Desc: AuthenticateSession
Param1: 0x1
Param2: 0x60000001C
Param3: 0x900000006
Param4: 0x0
Status: 0x1
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-EnhancedStorage-EhStorTcgDrv" Guid="{AA3AA23B-BB6D-425A-B58C-1D7E37F5D02A}" />
<EventID>10</EventID>
<Version>0</Version>
<Level>2</Level>
<Task>1</Task>
<Opcode>57</Opcode>
<Keywords>0x8000000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:38:40.296005900Z" />
<EventRecordID>9158</EventRecordID>
<Correlation />
<Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" />
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data Name="Description">AuthenticateSession</Data>
<Data Name="Param1">0x1</Data>
<Data Name="Param2">0x60000001c</Data>
<Data Name="Param3">0x900000006</Data>
<Data Name="Param4">0x0</Data>
<Data Name="CmdStatus">0x1</Data>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: volmgr
Date: 9/16/2016 11:38:43 AM
Event ID: 46
Task Category: None
Level: Error
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
Crash dump initialization failed!
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="volmgr" />
<EventID Qualifiers="49156">46</EventID>
<Level>2</Level>
<Task>0</Task>
<Keywords>0x80000000000000</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:38:43.462793000Z" />
<EventRecordID>9163</EventRecordID>
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data>\Device\HarddiskVolume2</Data>
<Binary>0000000001000000000000002E0004C0091000000F0000C000000000000000000000000000000000</Binary>
</EventData>
</Event>
Code:
Log Name: System
Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
Date: 9/16/2016 11:38:43 AM
Event ID: 41
Task Category: (63)
Level: Critical
Keywords: (70368744177664),(2)
User: SYSTEM
Computer: Eggnog
Description:
The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
Event Xml:
<Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
<System>
<Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4}" />
<EventID>41</EventID>
<Version>4</Version>
<Level>1</Level>
<Task>63</Task>
<Opcode>0</Opcode>
<Keywords>0x8000400000000002</Keywords>
<TimeCreated SystemTime="2016-09-16T02:38:43.771595200Z" />
<EventRecordID>9166</EventRecordID>
<Correlation />
<Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" />
<Channel>System</Channel>
<Computer>Eggnog</Computer>
<Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
</System>
<EventData>
<Data Name="BugcheckCode">0</Data>
<Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0x0</Data>
<Data Name="BugcheckParameter2">0x0</Data>
<Data Name="BugcheckParameter3">0x0</Data>
<Data Name="BugcheckParameter4">0x0</Data>
<Data Name="SleepInProgress">0</Data>
<Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data>
<Data Name="BootAppStatus">0</Data>
<Data Name="Checkpoint">0</Data>
<Data Name="ConnectedStandbyInProgress">false</Data>
<Data Name="SystemSleepTransitionsToOn">0</Data>
<Data Name="CsEntryScenarioInstanceId">0</Data>
</EventData>
</Event>I recently replaced my 970 with an EVGA 1080 FTW and have been experiencing some insane coil whine. I never had any with the 970 and now with the 1080, any time I go above 100 fps it whines. I can play Witcher 3 at ultra everything 60 FPS and it is silent but if something like Divinity it at 200 an army of mosquitoes invades my case. The sound does not appear to be coming from the card itself. If I had to guess, I would say it is coming from the PSU (Corsair CX850M), the same PSU that never made a peep with my 970.
I have dealt with coil whine before on other desktops and lived with it. This however, is an unbearable, and quite frankly, worrisome volume of whine. So what does PC GAF recommend? Do I RMA the card? Blame the PSU? Put my fears and frustrations aside and deal with it?
P.S. Just cap the frames at 60 is not a long term option as I have a 144Hz monitor on the way.
I have dealt with coil whine before on other desktops and lived with it. This however, is an unbearable, and quite frankly, worrisome volume of whine. So what does PC GAF recommend? Do I RMA the card? Blame the PSU? Put my fears and frustrations aside and deal with it?
P.S. Just cap the frames at 60 is not a long term option as I have a 144Hz monitor on the way.
Why not copy the data to a new drive before it fails?
Well, I don't exactly have a spare 3TB drive laying around. I am debating picking up some new hard drives, hence the question.
Zepp Twofist
Member
Your drive may fail. That is true for any drive at all times. Backing up the data now is a lot easier than waiting for the drive to fail, which can be in ten years or tomorrow. There is literally no way to know.
Nostremitus
Member
anyone?
Smart data MAY give you a warning, but that's not a certaincy. Still, no harm in checking.
But you should backup just in case. Possibly only what you can't redownload / recreate easily if you're short of space.
For important data, I have a copy in a raid nas, a copy in an offline hard drive (in case of power failure that destroy the plugged devices), and a copy on a hard drive at my parents'house in case of fire or burglar. At least ^_^ (usually on an online server too)
Recovering yourself is hard and often won't work. Pro has far more chances of working, but it's insanely expensive. Don't consider that option.
Getting a problem with both my windows 10 laptops, home and work, where I put them to sleep by W + L, but when I come back they crash and restart. This is not the same as the deep sleep bug, which is all I get when I google this problem, as I can get them on by just touching the keyboard. The problem is I get a 'Window - error screen' and they reboot.
Anyone else having this problem?
Anyone else having this problem?
SmashN'Grab
Member
I've had this problem ever since I returned from holidays in mid-August with my PC. At that time, I upgraded my GPU from a 760 to a 970, and also received the Windows 10 Anniversary Update. Those were the only two real changes to my machine.
Now, whenever I'm downloading to my secondary hard drive my PC freezes up after about 15-20 minutes. My main hard drive is an SSD, which Windows is installed on. I have two other hard drives that I use for games and media. One of them seems fine, the other causes the lock-up.
I don't know what's causing it! It could be related to the GPU upgrade (though the GPU seems perfectly fine when playing games so I don't think so). It could be due to the Windows Anniversary Update. It could be a problem with my RAM (though I don't have any other symptoms of faulty RAM). It could be a faulty hard drive (though I've performed a chkdsk and nothing at all was found to be wrong).
Weirdly, this is only an issue when downloading (i.e. writing to the disk). When playing games located on the hard drive or watching media on the hard drive (i.e. reading from the disk) I have absolutely no issues at all. It's only when I'm downloading something. And even then, if it's a small download there's no problem. It's when downloading a ~20gb game that the machine freezes after about 15-20 mins.
Anyone have anything similar to this? I'm not sure what's going on! I thought it could be a fault where the drive was going to sleep after 20 mins or so, but I've changed the power settings and the issue remains.
Now, whenever I'm downloading to my secondary hard drive my PC freezes up after about 15-20 minutes. My main hard drive is an SSD, which Windows is installed on. I have two other hard drives that I use for games and media. One of them seems fine, the other causes the lock-up.
I don't know what's causing it! It could be related to the GPU upgrade (though the GPU seems perfectly fine when playing games so I don't think so). It could be due to the Windows Anniversary Update. It could be a problem with my RAM (though I don't have any other symptoms of faulty RAM). It could be a faulty hard drive (though I've performed a chkdsk and nothing at all was found to be wrong).
Weirdly, this is only an issue when downloading (i.e. writing to the disk). When playing games located on the hard drive or watching media on the hard drive (i.e. reading from the disk) I have absolutely no issues at all. It's only when I'm downloading something. And even then, if it's a small download there's no problem. It's when downloading a ~20gb game that the machine freezes after about 15-20 mins.
Anyone have anything similar to this? I'm not sure what's going on! I thought it could be a fault where the drive was going to sleep after 20 mins or so, but I've changed the power settings and the issue remains.
What is your memory usage like when this occurs? Windows 10 initial update caused a memory leak for me, my motherboard has Killer Network drivers which are apparently notorious for memory leaks. A new driver eventually sorted this out. When the Anniversary update hit it came back. Reinstalling drivers fixed it.
The memory leak was specifically related to downloads, though it wouldn't fill up in 20 minutes, but that might be because I have more RAM than you. But it was tied to network activity in general.
I'd try the HDD in a friend's PC, see if it occurs there though. Things point toward the HDD if it's just the one that has the issue.
SmashN'Grab
Member
My motherboard has Killer Network drivers too. I will try to update them and see if that helps. I hadn't thought of that.
I'm not in a position to try my hard drive in another PC, unfortunately. However, I will stress-test the other hard drive with a ~20gb download from Steam to see if the issue is replicated on there.
Thanks!
lordfuzzybutt
Member
If you have a Killer Network card, update it by downloading only the driver files and update it via Device Manager. Do not download and use the suite.
Tony Iron Man Stark
Banned
I am experiencing major input lag (2-5 seconds) on my Dell XPS 15 9550 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD.
I have about 12 tabs open in Chrome and memory usage is currently 45%.
How do I get rid of this input lag? Is it Chrome extensions or anything installed onto the laptop?
Input lag isn't just affecting Chrome, but it's affecting the rest of my programs.
I have about 12 tabs open in Chrome and memory usage is currently 45%.
How do I get rid of this input lag? Is it Chrome extensions or anything installed onto the laptop?
Input lag isn't just affecting Chrome, but it's affecting the rest of my programs.
Hexa
Member
I have a really weird problem problem on my Lenovo Y580 laptop with Win10. Started after the update a couple days ago.
After I put it to sleep, when it wakes up I get to the desktop but I can't do anything. Like the mouse still works, I can move it around and things react on mous eovers and I can select things on the desktop with the blue rectangle thing. But nothing actually happens when I click anything.
For example, I can't open the start menu through clicking on it or the windows key or anything by clicking on icons. Ctrl+Alt+Del doesn't work either. The only option at that point is to hold the power button until it shuts down and start up again.
Anyone have any experience with this? Or any idea how to formulate a search string on Google for this? Any search I do comes up with stuff relating to black screens and such. lol
Cold booting takes me like 10 minutes so this is really painful. T_T
After I put it to sleep, when it wakes up I get to the desktop but I can't do anything. Like the mouse still works, I can move it around and things react on mous eovers and I can select things on the desktop with the blue rectangle thing. But nothing actually happens when I click anything.
For example, I can't open the start menu through clicking on it or the windows key or anything by clicking on icons. Ctrl+Alt+Del doesn't work either. The only option at that point is to hold the power button until it shuts down and start up again.
Anyone have any experience with this? Or any idea how to formulate a search string on Google for this? Any search I do comes up with stuff relating to black screens and such. lol
Cold booting takes me like 10 minutes so this is really painful. T_T
LurkerPrime
Member
@Brrrr noise dude: could it be a RAM issue?
When I had bad RAM, it manifested itself in random BSOD crashes that got worse over a period of months, until I finally thought to test the RAM. When it crashed, it was always a "brrrr" (like a sound repeating, maybe) then a BSOD/restart. There was no way to predict when it happened.
It actually freaked me out for a while because I'd return to my computer after having shut it off and it'd magically be on. Turns out it was BSODing during shutdown and restarting, after I had turned off the monitor and walked away from the desk in the evening.
That happened on my desktop PC with Windows 8 or maybe 8.1. It was basically like my PC couldn't wake up fully. It drove me mad for a long time, to the point that I disabled all sleep mode stuff. (I don't remember if menus still worked though. Yours might be a different issue.)
IIRC I "fixed" it by disabling the quick boot pagefile stuff in one of the system settings; I dunno where that is in Windows 10.
When I had bad RAM, it manifested itself in random BSOD crashes that got worse over a period of months, until I finally thought to test the RAM. When it crashed, it was always a "brrrr" (like a sound repeating, maybe) then a BSOD/restart. There was no way to predict when it happened.
It actually freaked me out for a while because I'd return to my computer after having shut it off and it'd magically be on. Turns out it was BSODing during shutdown and restarting, after I had turned off the monitor and walked away from the desk in the evening.
That happened on my desktop PC with Windows 8 or maybe 8.1. It was basically like my PC couldn't wake up fully. It drove me mad for a long time, to the point that I disabled all sleep mode stuff. (I don't remember if menus still worked though. Yours might be a different issue.)
IIRC I "fixed" it by disabling the quick boot pagefile stuff in one of the system settings; I dunno where that is in Windows 10.
HWmonitor is not good enough in the active moment unless you have dual monitors. You need to run something like Rivatuner and keep the OSD on screen and look at it while it happens. Maybe try to record the sound too with your phone next time. It SOUNDS to me like it's your GPU overheating and crashing, but when I've had that crash it's more of a buzz than a brrr, but it could be the same sound and we're just hearing it slightly differently. Since it only happens while gaming it's likely from something getting stressed out.
Set it up to show GPU usage, GPU temp, CPU usage (don't need all cores, but at least 2 I would say), CPU temp, RAM usage at the minimum. See what they are like while gaming even when not crashing, and then keep it on until it does.
clay_ghost
Member
Does anyone know if a write only flash drive exists? I am talking about write only not readonly or write protect.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Never seen anything like that, but I'm curious about why you would write something you can never read again? Or do you want to prevent reading at some times only, using a switch?
Slackbladder
Member
Okay, any help here would be truly appreciated.
I have Windows 10 Anniversary Edition and I recently updated it. Seems it was a fairly large security based update. However now windows is very laggy - it takes ages to write onto notepad, pop ups don't display properly but do as soon as I hover over the taskbar and some apps are slow like Steam.
It's as if my PC is below spec but it isn't at all. Very strange and frustrating. Looked around and tried changing the paging file to manual but made no difference so I'm at a loss. Help!
I have Windows 10 Anniversary Edition and I recently updated it. Seems it was a fairly large security based update. However now windows is very laggy - it takes ages to write onto notepad, pop ups don't display properly but do as soon as I hover over the taskbar and some apps are slow like Steam.
It's as if my PC is below spec but it isn't at all. Very strange and frustrating. Looked around and tried changing the paging file to manual but made no difference so I'm at a loss. Help!
Slackbladder
Member
Okay, ignore this. I installed the latest Nvidia driver for Horizon 3 and that fixed the issue. Dunno if there was a problem with the previous driver or if Microsoft installed a different one when updating (I'm sure I turned third party updates off). Anyway, all's good.
So I just installed a new SSD and I've now noticed that my previous 500GB SSD and my 1TB HDD are set to Master Boot Record (MBR) for the partition style. Should I change them to GUID Partition Table(GPT)?
I set the new one to GPT but is it worth changing the other ones? I'd rather not have to format them :\
I set the new one to GPT but is it worth changing the other ones? I'd rather not have to format them :\
I've been getting these random spikes in CPU usage lately in some games like Warhammer 40.000: Eternal Crusade, Mad Max or Everspace. There is nothing audible coming from the PC and when looking at HWMonitor I don't see the temperatures of any of the cores go above 70*C. On the Task Manager I see its usually the games that are just shooting straight up suddenly in CPU usage but this hasn't been a problem like this before, I could for example play the Battlefield 1 beta quite flawlessly.
My CPU is a i5-3570K 3.4ghz, its been overclocked through motherboard software.
My CPU is a i5-3570K 3.4ghz, its been overclocked through motherboard software.
Just got an Asus Strix 1070 and having a weird issue. Hooked up the card via HDMI, booted up to Windows but shortly after the screen goes black. No output at all.
Rebooted and I can see the BIOS, then the Windows loading screen, then black.
So I suspect a driver issue. Rebooted to safe mode (Windows 10 makes this a pain so I had to interrupt boot 3 times to get to it) and I can see the desktop. So I uninstall all graphics drivers.
Reboot and it gets to desktop fine in proper Windows, but then after a few seconds Windows detects the card and enables the drivers again. Black screen, no output to the display.
The only way I can even use Windows is to remove the whole card and go through the integrated graphics.
Edit: Solved. It was partly the HDMI splitter box, partly a weak signal. I have the PC connected to my TV using this splitter (so I can hook up all consoles to the same input). Connected directly to the TV via the same HDMI cable and it works fine. But, there is some kind interference. The HDMI cable is very long, so I tried moving the PC next to the TV and directly connecting with a shorter HDMI cable and it's absolutely fine. I can only conclude the 1070, or this particular model, has a weaker signal output than at least my 660ti which worked in this setup. I assume weak enough it can't trigger the HDMI splitter, and weak enough that it picks up interference. Working 100% on a normal length HDMI though, I'm happy.
Rebooted and I can see the BIOS, then the Windows loading screen, then black.
So I suspect a driver issue. Rebooted to safe mode (Windows 10 makes this a pain so I had to interrupt boot 3 times to get to it) and I can see the desktop. So I uninstall all graphics drivers.
Reboot and it gets to desktop fine in proper Windows, but then after a few seconds Windows detects the card and enables the drivers again. Black screen, no output to the display.
The only way I can even use Windows is to remove the whole card and go through the integrated graphics.
Edit: Solved. It was partly the HDMI splitter box, partly a weak signal. I have the PC connected to my TV using this splitter (so I can hook up all consoles to the same input). Connected directly to the TV via the same HDMI cable and it works fine. But, there is some kind interference. The HDMI cable is very long, so I tried moving the PC next to the TV and directly connecting with a shorter HDMI cable and it's absolutely fine. I can only conclude the 1070, or this particular model, has a weaker signal output than at least my 660ti which worked in this setup. I assume weak enough it can't trigger the HDMI splitter, and weak enough that it picks up interference. Working 100% on a normal length HDMI though, I'm happy.
Posted this in another desktop speaker thread, but maybe I'll have more luck here:
Can anyone tell me if I can use this Nobsound amp to drive two of these JBL TSX 10 speakers without anything blasting or overheating? And still have audible sound coming out of it?
Can anyone tell me if I can use this Nobsound amp to drive two of these JBL TSX 10 speakers without anything blasting or overheating? And still have audible sound coming out of it?
So i'm planning on modding a Skull Canyon into a handheld PC with built-in controller input. How should I go about the button input i.e. would it be better to take, say, a wired 360 controller and a mini keyboard/trackpad combo and use the parts from those to add the controller/keyboard/mouse input function, or is there a better solution? Is this simply wizardry far beyond mere mortal hands to cast?
Since week ago when I shut down my Alienware 15 notebook Windows seems to shut down (screens doesn't show anything, activity lights are off and cuts power to USB stuff, but internal keyboard and bling lighting will still stay on), but computer still stays on doing something and fans gradually spin up to medium speed. I have to hold down the power button to actually shut it down. There has been no changes to hardware or software.
Any ideas?
Edit: Figured it out. It was fast startup being off that prevented my computer from being shut down properly. Weird.
Any ideas?
Edit: Figured it out. It was fast startup being off that prevented my computer from being shut down properly. Weird.
I've done it in the past, but it will probably be tricky, especially with newer Windows (if it even works... the licence may not accept a complete hardware change).
Why not use a fresh OS in the new laptop and connect the old HDD through USB to collect stuff you need?
Ill try the USB thing first. I just want to get a few files. I don't really care about most of the stuff on there.
Just moved into a new apartment. Setup the router and most websites run very fast except some seemingly random https sites REFUSE to load. Initially i noticed on my MacBook, tested on my iPhone and my win 10 tower and it's the same story. Any ideas? I disabled the SPI Firewall in the routers setting and am using Google's DNS servers.
AlteredBeast
Fork 'em, Sparky!
Don't want to make a thread of it, but here is a question:
I want to automate a certain aspect of work that I do on the side for my clients. This involves using a website, entering data into a field and clicking enter, and then seeing what pops up. Is there a bot or something I could use and give it parameters to check, having it load a new tab for each try? It would make life incredibly easy for me if so.
I want to automate a certain aspect of work that I do on the side for my clients. This involves using a website, entering data into a field and clicking enter, and then seeing what pops up. Is there a bot or something I could use and give it parameters to check, having it load a new tab for each try? It would make life incredibly easy for me if so.
My wife solved the problem. Had to increase the MTU # in router settings. No idea why that worked but the more you know...
Alright, I haven't done the migration yet but I plan to this weekend now that I've got all my ducks in a row.
So that leaves a question: My Solid State Drive is on SATA 3 (or 4, forgetting) while my (to be wiped) Windows 10/OS and MBR drive is on SATA 1.
I want to install Linux (Debian) and Windows 10 on the Solid State. I can do that with no issues BUT: How do I get them to dual-boot consistently and coexist with LILO (or the Windows boot selector) with the non-Solid State drive being the MBR(?) Can I make Sata 3-4/the Solid State the MBR holder?
So that leaves a question: My Solid State Drive is on SATA 3 (or 4, forgetting) while my (to be wiped) Windows 10/OS and MBR drive is on SATA 1.
I want to install Linux (Debian) and Windows 10 on the Solid State. I can do that with no issues BUT: How do I get them to dual-boot consistently and coexist with LILO (or the Windows boot selector) with the non-Solid State drive being the MBR(?) Can I make Sata 3-4/the Solid State the MBR holder?
-sdp
Member
So..I had a phone that got wet and stopped working. I don't really want to fix it because it might not be worth it however when I try to view the files of the microSD card on a computer it gives me an error. The SD card still works and has the pictures because after this happened I was able to boot up the phone again one night and when I inserted the SD card the pictures were there but the next morning the phone was dead again. So is there a way to get the pictures out or is my only option fixing my phone? Would the SD card format if I insert it in my current phone or would I be able to get the files?