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[DemiMatt]

***EDIT - I opened it up to try to reboot the CMOS and see if there was anything caught in the ram slots. I noticed that one of the PCI-E plugs was loose in the gfx card - it appeared to be caught on the fan which caused it not to connect properly - so I made an adjustment and got video. Dota 2 and other games are running fine and the fans no longer seem to be going into overtime. Could not having the cable plugged in all the way cause the fans to overheat? Or is that another issue all together?

Hey Gaf, something unique happened to me tonight.

I was playing Dota 2 and my display would turn black, and the computer would reboot. It did this several times even before I could change the settings in Dota 2. I thought it was an overheating issue (may still be) and I cleaned out my computer and tried to boot Dota 2 once again - same issue.

Read up online and saw that it could be a driver error so I tried to clean install the latest driver for my GTX 970 and it worked fine for a moment - then my computer crashed. As of now I am unable to get any display functionaility working on my PC. I have tried hooking it up to several monitors via various connections and nothing so far has worked. The PC seems to be on but I cannot view anything on any display.

Any idea on how I can even begin to fix this? I've had no issues with this computer since I built it, the computer is about a year old. Thanks Gaf!

Here are my specs

This is the last error message I was able to get before my PC went dark. Thank you for any help & input.

Problem signature:
Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
Locale ID: 1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode: 116
BCP1: FFFFFA800E1D12A0
BCP2: FFFFF8800509AA08
BCP3: FFFFFFFFC000009A
BCP4: 0000000000000004
OS Version: 6_1_7601
Service Pack: 1_0
Product: 768_1

Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\082116-4009-01.dmp
C:\Users\DemiMatt\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-6115-0.sysdata.xml

Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409

If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt

 

[Media]

Nevermind, I finally figured it out. Blah. Sorry to bug you guys.

 

[March of the Crabs]

So I am computer illiterate and am trying to get data off of a very old HDD in a very old desktop and then wipe the rest. However, when I was trying to remove the drive from my old desktop it seems the screws holding it in to the case are completely stripped so it's sort of stuck in there. Is there anything I can do to access data/wipe the drive while it's still stuck in the case? The desktop no longer works so I can't just boot it up.

 

[test_account]

So I am computer illiterate and am trying to get data off of a very old HDD in a very old desktop and then wipe the rest. However, when I was trying to remove the drive from my old desktop it seems the screws holding it in to the case are completely stripped so it's sort of stuck in there. Is there anything I can do to access data/wipe the drive while it's still stuck in the case? The desktop no longer works so I can't just boot it up.

Using a longer cable and connecting the harddrive directly to another PC is probably the easiest solution.

 

[Aiustis]

My MKB stop working when I log into my Windows account.
They work if I'm in safe mode.
Unplugging and replugging them in doesn't fix the issue.

 

[lilojigsaw]

***EDIT - I opened it up to try to reboot the CMOS and see if there was anything caught in the ram slots. I noticed that one of the PCI-E plugs was loose in the gfx card - it appeared to be caught on the fan which caused it not to connect properly - so I made an adjustment and got video. Dota 2 and other games are running fine and the fans no longer seem to be going into overtime. Could not having the cable plugged in all the way cause the fans to overheat? Or is that another issue all together?

Hey Gaf, something unique happened to me tonight.

I was playing Dota 2 and my display would turn black, and the computer would reboot. It did this several times even before I could change the settings in Dota 2. I thought it was an overheating issue (may still be) and I cleaned out my computer and tried to boot Dota 2 once again - same issue.

Read up online and saw that it could be a driver error so I tried to clean install the latest driver for my GTX 970 and it worked fine for a moment - then my computer crashed. As of now I am unable to get any display functionaility working on my PC. I have tried hooking it up to several monitors via various connections and nothing so far has worked. The PC seems to be on but I cannot view anything on any display.

Any idea on how I can even begin to fix this? I've had no issues with this computer since I built it, the computer is about a year old. Thanks Gaf!

Here are my specs

This is the last error message I was able to get before my PC went dark. Thank you for any help & input.

If the power was not plugged in all the way then it could cause it to overheat if say only one or two fans was powered on since it didnt have enough power. They would then have to work overdrive to cover for the fans that were no working at the time. Now that all of them are working it sounds normal since it has full power. If you have worries still you can download a gpu monitor off the web to monitor the heat of it manually

 

[KZXcellent]

So I'm upgrading my graphics card. Going from an NVidia GT 730 to a NVidia GTX 950. Is there anything I need to know/do with it besides just replacing the card? (Never replaced PC parts before)

 

[AndyD]

So I'm upgrading my graphics card. Going from an NVidia GT 730 to a NVidia GTX 950. Is there anything I need to know/do with it besides just replacing the card? (Never replaced PC parts before)

One thing to know is that the new card needs power from the power supply and draws significantly more than the previous one. So your power supply needs to be able to feed sufficient power and have sufficient leads to do so.

 

[Zackat]

So I am having this problem on Windows 10 where my disk usage will go to 100% and basically freeze everything up. The culprit seems to be wsappx, which I am guessing is some shitty thing that I don't know how to disable. But I am not 100% sure so I come to you guys, what is causing this?

Also, my steam won't update at all. Does this have to do with the prior problem, or no? It is a small file and it just freezes and won't update. Really frustrating that I can't play or do anything.

I reset my windows 10 due to this problem and now I can't do anything.

 

[Owari]

So I was playing Overwatch and my PC just shut off. Gave me a flashing light and wouldn't boot. Unplugged it and it wouldn't boot or get any power at all. Likely a fried PSU, so I replaced it. Still nothing. Tried swapping with a new (old) compatible motherboard I had in my old PC. Now everything boots, but I have no signal. Tried plugging DVI directly into mobo with no GPU plugged in, still nada. Swapped the RAM to another slot, nada. Cleared CMOS, nada. Not even getting a boot screen but I have to hold the power button to power down which leads me to believe it is passing POST.

Going to try the old CPU and maybe the old GPU one at a time to see if that makes a difference. Ugh, what a headache. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears. I just wanna play Overwatch.

 

[snacknuts]

When using Windows 10 with multiple displays, is it possible to force a program to open on a specific screen? When I use my MacBook, I generally use Spotlight to launch applications, and they will launch on whichever screen I use to initiate the Spotlight search. On my Surface Pro 3, even if I open the Start menu on one of the secondary displays and click the icon to launch a program, it always opens it on the screen designated as primary and then I have to drag it over to one of the second displays. It's a minor annoyance, but I would like to prevent it from happening if possible.

 

[kamakazi5]

Ok, so my wife's PC just stopped turning on one day. No power, no light, nothing. Replacing the PSU did nothing so I finally got around to changing the motherboard which seemed to correct the issue. Now though I'm having an issue with the CPU overheating (>90°C with minimal use and jumping between 50°C-75°C while idling).

I re-seated and applied fresh thermal paste (arctic silver) twice with no change. So my question now is is my CPU going bad and possibly what killed my old motherboard (due to high temps)? I never used the PC so I don't know if the CPU temps were high before it died. I just happened to notice the fans going really high so I downloaded a hardware monitor program.

My other thought is that my new motherboard has an issue (it was an open box item) and is causing the overheating. I'm not sure if this is possible but the motherboard is the only new part. The CPU voltage is 1.4 which seems to be normal but I'm not sure.

Any thoughts on this? If it is the CPU going bad, can I underclock it to reduce overheating?

 

[Garou]

Ok, so my wife's PC just stopped turning on one day. No power, no light, nothing. Replacing the PSU did nothing so I finally got around to changing the motherboard which seemed to correct the issue. Now though I'm having an issue with the CPU overheating (>90°C with minimal use and jumping between 50°C-75°C while idling).

I re-seated and applied fresh thermal paste (arctic silver) twice with no change. So my question now is is my CPU going bad and possibly what killed my old motherboard (due to high temps)? I never used the PC so I don't know if the CPU temps were high before it died. I just happened to notice the fans going really high so I downloaded a hardware monitor program.

My other thought is that my new motherboard has an issue (it was an open box item) and is causing the overheating. I'm not sure if this is possible but the motherboard is the only new part. The CPU voltage is 1.4 which seems to be normal but I'm not sure.

Any thoughts on this? If it is the CPU going bad, can I underclock it to reduce overheating?

1.4V would be considered very high/too high on just about any Intel CPU made in the last 5 years.

 

[kamakazi5]

1.4V would be considered very high/too high on just about any Intel CPU made in the last 5 years.

What would be a good voltage to change it to?

Edit: Maybe that wasn't the right question. Looking at the BIOS it seems that 1.4V is the CPU voltage which I didn't realize. Can this even be changed? Are there any numbers I should be looking at?

 

[Garou]

What would be a good voltage to change it to?

Edit: Maybe that wasn't the right question. Looking at the BIOS it seems that 1.4V is the CPU voltage which I didn't realize. Can this even be changed? Are there any numbers I should be looking at?

The default value.
Reset to optimized defaults in the bios.

 

[kamakazi5]

The default value.
Reset to optimized defaults in the bios.

I reset everything to default but it didn't do anything except change the CPU fan speed back to what it was (I had adjusted it last night to full speed).

Would updating the BIOS do anything? The one I'm on is about a year older than the most recent update.

Edit: Nevermind, didn't realize I needed to reboot. It went down to 1.089 and everything seems much more stable. Thanks for the help.

 

[Sblargh]

Is there anyway to do a kind of "soft reformat"?
Like, I want my documents to stay here, I want Windows 10 (sigh) to stay here, but I want everything else nuked from orbit.
This computer is kind of old and it is now an unholy mess of infinite tiny little shits I installed for some reason over the years.

 

[MadSol]

Is there anyway to do a kind of "soft reformat"?
Like, I want my documents to stay here, I want Windows 10 (sigh) to stay here, but I want everything else nuked from orbit.
This computer is kind of old and it is now an unholy mess of infinite tiny little shits I installed for some reason over the years.

There is a refresh option for Windows 10, I haven't used it for anything yet but here is the MS link to the info.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/17085/windows-8-restore-refresh-reset-pc

 

[Ashhong]

Does anybody know if I will see good results if I turn my PC into a wireless repeater? It's currently hooked up to a power line adapter and I want better wifi in my room. Is this a better option than an actual wifi repeater?

 

[msv]

Alright, my first foray into techsupportgaf! Got a nasty display flickering issue, I was scared at first, but I'm a bit relieved now, though I've no idea what the options are, can't find any specific information.

My system is an X4 955BE, 12GB, HD 7950 3GB, Windows 10, latest drivers. I got a new UHD TV, pretty nifty, downside is I wanted to connect it about 12-15m away from the PC at 2160p60. So I got myself a thick cable and an HDMI repeater to be sure, along with the Club3d DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter.

Tried it out and it started out ok, but I noticed some small shifting on the bottom half of the screen sometimes, sort of like a VSYNC issue, although there was no movement in the image to cause it. It was minor so I kinda ignored it for a while.

Then comes the whammy. I was watching some 2160p60 footage on youtube when all of a sudden a thick horizontal transparent black band was strobing across my screen.

First I thought - shit, the cables aren't working well, or my 7950's or the DP-HDMI adapter's output isn't strong enough. So I tried various setups, and it keeps occuring, only switching to a different resolution, and then back again will help. I tried the setup without repeater, with different cable, it even happened on 2160p30, with a 10m cable, and it all kept occuring. It only stopped when I tried 1080p60.

So I thought maybe the TV itself is damaged, cables are shite, or perhaps the input is broken? Inputs didn't make a difference, so I tried the same cables with my laptop. Unfortunately I couldn't test 2160p60, but I tested at 2160p30 and none of those issues happened. So it's probably not the TV, lucky. Then it might be the 7950, noooo!!

I was already searching for a GTX 1060 or RX 480, when the flickering happened again. But then I noticed something. The mouse cursor wasn't affected! I had thought it was a hardware error because everything flickered in the same way, even elements on top such as the task manager. So if the mouse pointer isn't affected it means it could very well be a software issue.

Since DWM manages everything except the mouse pointer, I thought - hm, I'll try to end the process, see what happens. Et voila, flickering gone!

It happens again after a while, if I watch (presumably) hardware accelerated videos or graphics. So what the hell is this? I haven't had this issue before, and searching for flickering bands doesn't turn up the same issue for me (mostly the fading in and out of the desktop from that one W10 update).

 

[FUBAR McDangles]

Hey guys, have a question about Microsoft Excel. If i have a worksheet with uncollated data on it, is there a way to mke additional worksheets and have the uncollated data autopopulate a second, third, fourth etc worksheet?

Example, worksheet 1 is rows of info about cars. Columns are year, make, model, etc. But its a big mess with no auto sorting.

Can we, for example, make Worksheet 2 a Ford worksheet and have any Fords in WS1 auto copy into WS2? Then have WS3 be a Chevrolet, WS4 Hyundai, etc.

Also, more worksheets that list all sedans (no matter what brand), all trucks, all vans, and so on? So some of the cars from the original unsorted worksheet would have to be copied in more than one other. If we have a Ford 2001 Van it would copy and fill into the Ford worksheet, the 2001 worksheet, and the van worksheet.

Im sure there are better programs for this, but because of who I am doing this for it pretty much has to stay in Excel. We could manually copy and paste into each sorted worksheet, but there is no way the user would be able to keep up and make sure it is sorted. Hence why it would be nice to auto fill to whatever worksheet is needed.

Secondary question, how would I be able to conditional format a color scale based on repeats? Say we have one blue Chevy Malibu, I want that standard white. But if we had two then make it yellow, three make it orange, four make it red. I can only figure out to make it a different color if it has text containing it or if it is a duplicate, not based on how many there actually are.

Thanks for the help fellas. I appreciate it.

 

[RoryDropkick]

Ok I really need some help. My wife's laptop has Windows 10 installed. She was using it normally and had it go into sleep mode one day and then had it reboot. After reboot, the computer posts, shows the bios and then goes to a blank screen, no Windows screen nothing. I have taken the HD out to see if it at least is detected on my system, and it shows that everything is there, no lost files or antyhing like that. It is a Segate HD, 500 GB purchased about 4 months ago. I don't have a recovery disk <I know, stupid> but I'm not sure what could have caused this error .


Some additional information, I'm getting an error "Media test failure, check cable" when I boot her laptop up. I go into the bios, the HD is detected. I am creating a recovery disk as we speak to see if possibly the boot record is screwed up possibly from the recent Win 10 updates.

 

[TheSeks]

What's the best file backup system in regards to pulling save data and game folders from a Windows partition to another drive?

I installed Windows 10 on a Solid State Drive and on another partition have Debian installed. GRUB wants to be installed on the first drive (which I need to wipe because I'm not sure if GRUB is going to mess with the game folders/save data there) which isn't the Solid State drive with the two OS's. Throw in I'm worried about it formatting that drive.

If I could just uninstall the Windows operating files and keep the save data and game folders to where I could relink them via the Solid State Drive to Steam and other programs that use it in the new Windows 10 installation registry, I'd be golden.

 

[Garou]

Use this: http://www.gamesave-manager.com
Put all saved files into your Dropbox/Google Drive/etc. folder, enjoy cloud-saves for everything.

 

[TheSeks]

Well, I'd like to copy the game data (the actual game) as well, but I guess I could just link those to the free-space on my 3Tb drive, format the former Windows partition, and the put all this stuff back onto that formatted drive.

What was the program that relinked/moved Steam games to another drive? I know JaseC had it, but I forget the name.

 

[Garou]

Well, I'd like to copy the game data (the actual game) as well, but I guess I could just link those to the free-space on my 3Tb drive, format the former Windows partition, and the put all this stuff back onto that formatted drive.

What was the program that relinked/moved Steam games to another drive? I know JaseC had it, but I forget the name.

Just copy/move the steamapps-folder inside the Steam-folder.

 

[TheSeks]

Alright, I'll try that tomorrow. The major pain will be getting Chrome bookmarks backed up. AFAIK I can't simply "copy-paste" the bookmark manager CTRL+A highlights to an explorer folder (didn't work for me earlier).

Once I've got my personal folder, game saves, game data, and Chrome Bookmarks backed up, I could just nuke the former Win10 partition with no worries.

 

[JaseC]

Well, I'd like to copy the game data (the actual game) as well, but I guess I could just link those to the free-space on my 3Tb drive, format the former Windows partition, and the put all this stuff back onto that formatted drive.

What was the program that relinked/moved Steam games to another drive? I know JaseC had it, but I forget the name.

There's no need to fiddle with junction points/symbolic links any more now that Steam has a "library folder" feature. Do this instead. You can also move pre-loads in much the same way.

 

[Shredderi]

I wonder if you guys can help me. I built a PC for my friend and it was all going well until I installed Windows 7-64bit. After rebooting it booted into Bios even though boot priority is set to boot from the SSD the windows is installed in. Then I realized that it would boot into windows IF the installation disc was inside the PC. I reinstalled windows but didn't help. No error messages or anything either. It just boots into Bios only if there is no installation disc inside. I'm going to try again tommorrow and wanted to pry a few tips from here first.

The mobo is H110M-A.

Edit: I think the recommended way is to disconnect all other drives except the SSD when installing windows and I had all connected when I installed windows. Can't be that, though, right?

 

[Saucycarpdog]

I'm having some PC trouble, I tried cleaning and factory resetting my computer because of a driver problem. The reset failed and now my PC is stuck in this infinite booting cycle where it seems like it's constantly trying to load up windows but fails and tries again. Help please?

 

[Professor Beef]

For some reason no mouse I try to use will work on my laptop anymore. I just bought a new one, it installed, and nothing.

EDIT: never mind, ignore this. looked online, couldn't find a solution, so i'm just gonna save up for a new computer

 

[Rufus]

For some reason no mouse I try to use will work on my laptop anymore. I just bought a new one, it installed, and nothing.

EDIT: never mind, ignore this. looked online, couldn't find a solution, so i'm just gonna save up for a new computer

What have you tried?

 

[Professor Beef]

What have you tried?

- uninstalling/reinstalling both the mouse and the touchpad (the latter reinstalled fine, the former didn't)
- searching for drivers that don't exist
- booting in safe mode to see if the mouse would work (it didn't)
- testing the mouse in other USB ports, as well as testing the USB ports themselves (they work, but 2 different mice don't)

I'm already saving for a new PC as it is, this is just giving me an excuse to put more money towards it.

 

[JudgmentJay]

So I've got an incredibly peculiar and specific problem. I just built a new PC around the new Titan X and I've got a 1-frame stutter every ~3.5 seconds in all games. It's very consistent... like it's on a timer. The weird part is that it only happens if I'm fullscreen and even more weirdly, it only happens when I'm using the game mode of my Samsung JS9500 TV. On my monitor and on any other display mode on the TV, there's no stutter. Here are the things I've tried so far to no avail:

1. Different HDMI cable
2. Hooking a different display up to the same HDMI port (result was no stutter, so I ruled out a faulty port)
3. Resetting BIOS to factory default settings
4. Updating my TV's firmware
5. Reset TV settings
6. Bypassing my A/V receiver and hooking up straight to the TV
7. Reinstalling/rolling back drivers
8. Unhooking all peripherals, including my monitor
9. And finally, a fresh install of Win10 Pro x64 with only the necessary drivers, Steam, and a few games.

It's worth noting that this started today. I built the system about a week ago and had it on air cooling. I'm 99% sure there was no stutter. Yesterday I installed custom watercooling on the CPU and GPU. As soon as I loaded up DOOM today is when I noticed the stutter. If I had somehow damaged the GPU, it would stutter all the time regardless of the display/setting, right? This seems much too specific for it to be something wrong with the card itself. The fact that the stutter is an incredibly consistent "tick" makes me think some other piece of hardware is affecting the games. My initial thought was that it was something in the BIOS, but I tried everything I could think of, including resetting to default as I mentioned.

I'm not really sure what to do at this point. I opened a ticket with Nvidia, but I doubt they'll be helpful. I'm considering going back to Windows 7 and seeing if the problem exists there. I don't really expect anyone to have an answer here either, but maybe someone could point me to some tools that I could use to help identify the problem?

There's always the possibility that the TV is the problem as well...

PC specs:

Maximus Gene VIII
6700k
Titan X Pascal
32gb 3.2ghz DD4
500gb Samsung 950 Pro
Corsair RM850i

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[V1LÆM]

So I've got an incredibly peculiar and specific problem. I just built a new PC around the new Titan X and I've got a 1-frame stutter every ~3.5 seconds in all games. It's very consistent... like it's on a timer. The weird part is that it only happens if I'm fullscreen and even more weirdly, it only happens when I'm using the game mode of my Samsung JS9500 TV. On my monitor and on any other display mode on the TV, there's no stutter. Here are the things I've tried so far to no avail:

1. Different HDMI cable
2. Hooking a different display up to the same HDMI port (result was no stutter, so I ruled out a faulty port)
3. Resetting BIOS to factory default settings
4. Updating my TV's firmware
5. Reset TV settings
6. Bypassing my A/V receiver and hooking up straight to the TV
7. Reinstalling/rolling back drivers
8. Unhooking all peripherals, including my monitor
9. And finally, a fresh install of Win10 Pro x64 with only the necessary drivers, Steam, and a few games.

It's worth noting that this started today. I built the system about a week ago and had it on air cooling. I'm 99% sure there was no stutter. Yesterday I installed custom watercooling on the CPU and GPU. As soon as I loaded up DOOM today is when I noticed the stutter. If I had somehow damaged the GPU, it would stutter all the time regardless of the display/setting, right? This seems much too specific for it to be something wrong with the card itself. The fact that the stutter is an incredibly consistent "tick" makes me think some other piece of hardware is affecting the games. My initial thought was that it was something in the BIOS, but I tried everything I could think of, including resetting to default as I mentioned.

I'm not really sure what to do at this point. I opened a ticket with Nvidia, but I doubt they'll be helpful. I'm considering going back to Windows 7 and seeing if the problem exists there. I don't really expect anyone to have an answer here either, but maybe someone could point me to some tools that I could use to help identify the problem?

There's always the possibility that the TV is the problem as well...

PC specs:

Maximus Gene VIII
6700k
Titan X Pascal
32gb 3.2ghz DD4
500gb Samsung 950 Pro
Corsair RM850i

Any help would be appreciated!

have you checked to see if there is a new BIOS version you can update to or are you up to date? here is a link to your motherboards drivers:

https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-GENE/HelpDesk_Download/

also try download ther other various drivers and see if that helps. here is the latest motherboard + chipset drivers.

motherboard: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/MAXIMUS_VIII_GENE/MAXIMUS-VIII-GENE-ASUS-1902.zip

chipset: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/MEI_Consumer_V11051189.zip

 

[JudgmentJay]

have you checked to see if there is a new BIOS version you can update to or are you up to date? here is a link to your motherboards drivers:

https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-GENE/HelpDesk_Download/

also try download ther other various drivers and see if that helps. here is the latest motherboard + chipset drivers.

motherboard: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/MAXIMUS_VIII_GENE/MAXIMUS-VIII-GENE-ASUS-1902.zip

chipset: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/MEI_Consumer_V11051189.zip

Yes, I'm using the latest BIOS/drivers for my hardware.

 

[Shredderi]

Update: Solved my problem. It was indeed fixed by reinstalling windows with only one hard drive connected at the time of installation.

 

[JudgmentJay]

I contacted Samsung and they're going to send me a new One Connect box (the little box that does the processing before sending the picture to the TV)... here's hoping that fixes the issue.

 

[Tony Iron Man Stark]

I recently bought a Dell XPS 15, but it gets hot and the fan runs loud whenever I closed the laptop. I took it out of my backpack like that.

What should I do?

 

[Fulminator]

hey guys, so there's potentially a big problem with my computer...i bought a new drawing tablet and when I went to install the drivers I got an error message that said "api-ms-win-crt-runtime-l1-1-0.dll missing", so i googled the error to try and fix it, and it told me that first I should check to see if windows is up to date.

So then I go to try and update windows, and I get another error coded, 8008005, which I then googled, and I've been trying to fix it but nothing is working for me, and I really need to use the tablet for an assignment i have due on friday. Does anyone know anything about fixing this error?

 

[Sectorseven]

Older PC says hdd S.M.A.R.T. status bad. Is this hard drive fubar?

 

[LegendX48]

I have a question that someone can hopefully answer within the next couple minutes. My dad's pc just randomly created a brand new HDD partition all by itself and we have no idea why. Any ideas? He's worried it's a virus or someone hacking his pc

 

[Kilrogg]

Why oh why does my 64-bit Win10 system with 8GB of RAM and a freshly bought GTX 970 keep telling me I'm "out of memory" when I run games like Doom, The Witcher 3 or Rust? I know they take up RAM, but I can tell by monitoring my RAM that they're not taking all of it. Even closing Firefox does nothing to fix the issue. It's infuriating.
(FYI it's probably nothing to do with my new GPU AFAIK, as I used to have those problems with my previous card too)

Any solutions? I've looked up the problem on Google and many people have had those types of issues on Win10, 8 and even 7, but some of the solutions they/I have tried haven't fixed anything at all.

 

[Venom Fox]

So I've just ordered an Asus Rog G20CB with the i7-4790 it unfortunately only comes with the GTX 950. I am going to upgrade the GPU to the RX 480 reference card (so it blows air out the back panel) but I was wondering about the dual PSU's.

Do these automatically work when I plug them in or do u have to mess with the motherboards pins? I'm seeing conflicting info on YouTube and thought this would be the best place to ask. Also is there any cases I can switch the Mobo etc too? It'll be a pain but is it doable?

Posted in the other thread too.

 

[MadSol]

Older PC says hdd S.M.A.R.T. status bad. Is this hard drive fubar?

It's getting ready to die most likely, time to back up if you haven't already.

 

[NameGenerated]

So today I booted up my PC only to find a horribly low resolution displayed.

My monitor is now being detected as a "Generic Non PnP Monitor" and it won't let the resolution go above 1024 x 768. I've spent most of the day googling, clicking on dozens of links by people with the same problem, but no solution has worked. I've uninstalled and reinstalled my GPU drivers like 3 times. Unplugged and replugged pretty much every cable, done tons of reboots, etc. My best guess right now is that something to do with the onboard monitor drivers or whatever got corrupted somehow.

One interesting thing that happened was yesterday I plugged my PS3 into the monitor via HDMI (for the first time in like over half a year at least) and it would not display. So I tried a TV and it worked fine. Maybe that has something to do with it, maybe not. I reconnected the monitor back to my PC and everything was fine, I never rebooted last night so today was the first time I booted up my PC since that weird issue.

I did install the newest nvidia drivers two days ago, but only today did this issue arise.

I'm using a GTX770 with an ASUS VS248H-P monitor via HDMI. As far as I can tell, there are no drivers to download for that model of monitor. I don't have a DVI cable, so I can't test that port right now. Another interesting thing is when I plug in the monitor directly to the motherboard, it doesn't have a signal and won't display anything.

Any help? I'd rather not like to buy a new monitor. Thanks.


EDIT: I found a DVI cable in the darkest depths of my house and it fucking works. Plugged it in and immediately the image came on in 1080p. I'm literally shaking. I can't even.

 

[WPS]

Well, google fu has failed me, so swallowing my pride and asking.

For a while now, my laptop (Dell Inspiron 5423, four years old, Windows 7) has been having an issue where it would display a garbled, colourful, static screen upon start up, and beep 8 times. The standard solution to this is to hold the d-key while powering up, at which point the computer cycles through basic colours on the screen before continuing on its merry way. However, from today, after cycling through the colours it displayed the dell logo and windows loading screen, only to revert back to static.

I personally suspect a loose connection, since the webcam, which is located above the screen, has also been playing up for some time.

I can still use the laptop itself if I plug in an external monitor, but that's not ideal. I was planning on getting a new laptop anyway, but I was hoping to wait until I start my new job and I was also planning on using my old laptop to help debug my new laptop while I finally learn how to use linux.

Are there any short term solutions which don't require replacing parts (and ideally don't require opening the thing up)?

Edit: Problem went away on its own accord. I think it wasn't turning off properly when I was trying to turn it off and on again.

 

[Shiloa]

I have a protected PDF.

I have the key code to unlock it, but I would like to be able to print the PDF but it doesn't allow me.

It's not password protected on opening, but features and contents are locked until key is entered.

Anyone know how to I can get around it? I just want to print the damn thing.

 

[RootCause]

First time building a PC. I'm trying to install the evo 212, but one of the screws is too high. :/ Everything lines up. Any help?

 

[pinsomniac]

So I just found a Sandy/Ivy Bridge (H61) motherboard. Just lying around here, brand new/sealed. ¯\_(&#12484_/¯

Is it worth picking up an LGA 1155 CPU to build this? Have enough other spare parts to complete it (minus an SSD, which I can pick up at a later time).

My main desktop still uses a 2500K, which has given me little to complain about after all these years. Just not sure whether I'd be better off hunting down another Sandy/Ivy versus a budget CPU+mobo combo.