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[freshair]

Alright guys, I can't figure this out. Tinypic, or any picture hosted on tinypic, will NOT load for me, no matter what. On other computers it will, and I can successfully ping the website, and load it through a proxy, but my computer REFUSES to load them. What the fuck is wrong with this?

Thanks.

adblock?

 

[JackEtc]

adblock?

Good guess, but nope =\

 

[Hawkian]

Good guess, but nope =\

This occurs on any browser?

 

[JackEtc]

This occurs on any browser?

Yes, all of them. I have no clue why.

I can also not load 4GIFs/forGIFs. There was a reddit post with someone with the same issue as me and mentioned that they couldn't load that site, so I checked it, and I can't either. Unfortunately, the reddit post had no replies.

 

[Cloudius12]

have you tried changing your DNS? It could be worth a shot. Use Google DNS or OpenDNS.

 

[JackEtc]

have you tried changing your DNS? It could be worth a shot. Use Google DNS or OpenDNS.

No luck.

 

[smokeandmirrors]

I am looking for a good wireless keyboard which the chicklet style keys, like this:

Incidentally, this is the only one I've been able to find. I love the design, and I don't really care for the solar charging part, but is this really the only one that would suit my requirements?

 

[Jocchan]

I am looking for a good wireless keyboard which the chicklet style keys, like this:

http://i.imgur.com/xU32j.jpg[IMG]

Incidentally, this is the only one I've been able to find. I love the design, and I don't really care for the solar charging part, but is this really the only one that would suit my requirements?[/QUOTE]
Logitech Wireless Illuminated Keyboard K800?
[url]http://www.logitech.com/en-gb/keyboards/keyboard/devices/7288[/url]

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/wJdf5.jpg

I just got the wired version (like the one in the pic above) and it's awesome.

 

[Jocchan]

EDIT: never mind.

 

[Combichristoffersen]

Sup TechGAF.

My friend's dad is a Facebook user, and the chat sidebar seems to have disappeared, and I can't find any way to get it back. I've tried googling for an answer, and I've found others who have also had the sidebar disappear and revert to the old chat, but I haven't been able to find any solution to get back the new chat, and Facebook's help section is useless. Do any of you know a solution to this?

 

[clav]

Sup TechGAF.

My friend's dad is a Facebook user, and the chat sidebar seems to have disappeared, and I can't find any way to get it back. I've tried googling for an answer, and I've found others who have also had the sidebar disappear and revert to the old chat, but I haven't been able to find any solution to get back the new chat, and Facebook's help section is useless. Do any of you know a solution to this?

Delete cookies.

See if it appears.

Does this problem occur on all computers or just your dad's?

Alright guys, I can't figure this out. Tinypic, or any picture hosted on tinypic, will NOT load for me, no matter what. On other computers it will, and I can successfully ping the website, and load it through a proxy, but my computer REFUSES to load them. What the fuck is wrong with this?

Thanks.

Check HOSTS file.

Do you use any security software or suites?

Windows version?

 

[Combichristoffersen]

Delete cookies.

See if it appears.

Does this problem occur on all computers or just your dad's?

It's not my dad's, it's my friend's dad, but anyway I've tried deleting cookies and temporary internet files, but no dice. The sidebar works if I log onto Facebook with my account on his computer, but it won't work when he logs onto Facebook with his own account. Seems like it's a fairly common problem with no specific solution.

 

[clav]

It's not my dad's, it's my friend's dad, but anyway I've tried deleting cookies and temporary internet files, but no dice. The sidebar works if I log onto Facebook with my account on his computer, but it won't work when he logs onto Facebook with his own account. Seems like it's a fairly common problem with no specific solution.

http://www.facebook.com/KnownIssues?v=app_4949752878

Report the bug then via friend's dad's account. Facebook will have to fix it up.

 

[BeautifulMemory]

Please help.

I just got my Comcast internet installed today. Things were bit shaky as the internet worked intermittently. However, right now the biggest problem is that while I do have internet, the modem would reset (and needs to be reset manually again) whenever I play online games on the PS3.

I just updated the firmware on the router, and it still happened. I am not sure if it's the router, the modem, or the line that's causing the problem.

Modem: Motorola SURFboard SB5101U

Router: Cisco-Linksys WRT54GL Wireless-G

If it makes any difference, the modem is hooked via a splitter (as the other line goes to TV cable)

Please be a bit more specific when you explain, I am new(b) to this =(

 

[clav]

Please help.

I just got my Comcast internet installed today. Things were bit shaky as the internet worked intermittently. However, right now the biggest problem is that while I do have internet, the modem would reset (and needs to be reset manually again) whenever I play online games on the PS3.

I just updated the firmware on the router, and it still happened. I am not sure if it's the router, the modem, or the line that's causing the problem.

Modem: Motorola SURFboard SB5101U

Router: Cisco-Linksys WRT54GL Wireless-G

If it makes any difference, the modem is hooked via a splitter (as the other line goes to TV cable)

Please be a bit more specific when you explain, I am new(b) to this =(

Have you tried unplugging the TV cable line from the splitter and keep the modem line untouched? You can unplug a coaxial cable simply by turning it counter-clock wise (to the left).

If that solves the problem, then the tech gave you a bad splitter. You'll need to call Comcast to get that replaced.

If you can, can you read off the wiring on the cable line? All coax cables have a set of letters beginning with RG and ending with numbers. Does yours say RG-6? In other words, did the tech give you a new line or used pre-existing wiring?

 

[CzarTim]

I got my new PC about a year ago, and it's running 64x Windows 7. Everything was working great until earlier this year when I installed an automatic Windows update. During the installation, the update froze my PC, and I had to turn it off manually. When I tried to turn it on again, Windows would not start.

After a lot of searches, I determined that I was not the only one with the problem. I did a restore from the disc and disabled automatic updates thinking Microsoft would eventually solve the problem. Recently I tried updating again (40+ updates!!!!) and the problem still exists. Google has not helped me (it's been many months and all the updates sound the same), and I'm pretty piqued at Microsoft right now. No idea what to do other than leave my PC un-updated.

 

[Jzero]

I got my new PC about a year ago, and it's running 64x Windows 7. Everything was working great until earlier this year when I installed an automatic Windows update. During the installation, the update froze my PC, and I had to turn it off manually. When I tried to turn it on again, Windows would not start.

After a lot of searches, I determined that I was not the only one with the problem. I did a restore from the disc and disabled automatic updates thinking Microsoft would eventually solve the problem. Recently I tried updating again (40+ updates!!!!) and the problem still exists. Google has not helped me (it's been many months and all the updates sound the same), and I'm pretty piqued at Microsoft right now. No idea what to do other than leave my PC un-updated.

You need to search for the update that is causing that and not install it with the rest. I had a problem where windows kept telling me that windows was not genuine even though it was, so i searched and found the update that caused this and uninstalled it. Win 7 64x also froze a couple of times when i was installing SP1 though.

 

[CzarTim]

You need to search for the update that is causing that and not install it with the rest. I had a problem where windows kept telling me that windows was not genuine even though it was, so i searched and found the update that caused this and uninstalled it. Win 7 64x also froze a couple of times when i was installing SP1 though.

Yeah, I'm going to start the tedious process of figuring out which one(s) are the problem.

 

[BeautifulMemory]

Have you tried unplugging the TV cable line from the splitter and keep the modem line untouched? You can unplug a coaxial cable simply by turning it counter-clock wise (to the left).

If that solves the problem, then the tech gave you a bad splitter. You'll need to call Comcast to get that replaced.

If you can, can you read off the wiring on the cable line? All coax cables have a set of letters beginning with RG and ending with numbers. Does yours say RG-6? In other words, did the tech give you a new line or used pre-existing wiring?

Hi!


This morning it happened again where I lost the signal. And yes I have tried unplugging the coaxial cable off the modem before. I also have tried resetting both the modem and router countless times. I don't have a good answer as to the solution except that repeated and repeated attempts of doing so gets either the modem or router receiving signal again.
There has to be something going on.

This is the writing on the cable

AMPHENPOL BBS TFC-T10 CHINA 4001538 6 SERIES (ETL) us CATV 18 AWC

 

[clav]

This morning it happened again where I lost the signal. And yes I have tried unplugging the coaxial cable off the modem before.

I said TV, not the modem. You said you had a splitter that split your cable line to two, so I assumed that your TV cable and modem cable shared the same coaxial point. Is this not the case? I'm making a big deal out of nothing.

I also have tried resetting both the modem and router countless times. I don't have a good answer as to the solution except that repeated and repeated attempts of doing so gets either the modem or router receiving signal again.
There has to be something going on.

This is the writing on the cable

AMPHENPOL BBS TFC-T10 CHINA 4001538 6 SERIES (ETL) us CATV 18 AWC

The wiring is a thicker grade than RG-6, so it's new cabling.

All right let's check your signal levels via modem.

Access this link via browser: http://192.168.100.1/

Click the "Signal" tab.

I'll use this guide as a reference: http://www.dslreports.com/faq/3412

Focus on Downstream SNR and Upstream power level as these two factors can cause disconnects. If you clearly see a discrepancy, then yeah, a tech needs to help you out here (duh), but at least now you know what to look for in your signal numbers in relation to your connection quality.

Downstream Power:
You generally want between -12db and +12db. Most modems are rated from -15 to +15. Anything less or more than that and you may have quality issues.

I personally prefer to not have less than -7db. If you want to raise your signal level a bit, check my troubleshooting and splitter section.

Downstream SNR:
This number is best over 30, but you may not have any problems with down to 25. Anything less and you will probably have slow transfers, dropped connections, etc.

See my "Downstream SNR" definition for more information on this.

Upstream Power:
The lower this number is, the better. If it is above 55, you may want to see if you can reconfigure your splitters. Anything above 57 is not good and should be fixed ASAP. (This is getting pretty close to not being able to connect.)

Upstream SNR:
Anything above 29 is considered good. The higher this number is, the better. If this number is below 25 and 29, you have a minute amount of noise leaking in somewhere. If it's anything less than 25, you want to get it fixed as you may have a lot of packet loss or slow transfer rates.

I'm going to say bad splitter, but I don't have that much experience working with Cable connections as I'm more of a DSL person.

As for your router, upgrade to Tomato firmware, but we can do that later as the stock firmware on the WRT54GL is pretty stable.

 

[FerranMG]

My 3 year old laptop died on me last week.
It suddenly shut off, I guess because of heat excess.
I disassembled it, and found the fan vents clear, so it was not because of dust obstruction.
I think the fan might not touch properly the cpu or whatever, and so the heat is not expelled good enough.
When I try to boot it up, it will turn off after a few seconds/minutes, as it gets hotter.

I have a couple of questions:
1.- What are the chances of the laptop (the cpu or motherboard) being permanently damaged?
2.- What can I do to make the fan stay on its place?


And, extra question: I took the hdd off the laptop to recover some important files I needed.
Problem is, after recovering them, I put the hdd in _another_ laptop. Booted it up ok. But when I went to place the hdd from the second laptop to my laptop, I think I forgot to turn off the second laptop and now the hdd might be screwed: I got a blue screen message saying it was corrupted and what not, and it won't launch Windows.
What can I do with this hdd? Any way to recover it? Formatting it would allow me to use the hdd again (even if I lost all the data)?

Thanks a lot.

 

[clav]

I got my new PC about a year ago, and it's running 64x Windows 7. Everything was working great until earlier this year when I installed an automatic Windows update. During the installation, the update froze my PC, and I had to turn it off manually. When I tried to turn it on again, Windows would not start.

After a lot of searches, I determined that I was not the only one with the problem. I did a restore from the disc and disabled automatic updates thinking Microsoft would eventually solve the problem. Recently I tried updating again (40+ updates!!!!) and the problem still exists. Google has not helped me (it's been many months and all the updates sound the same), and I'm pretty piqued at Microsoft right now. No idea what to do other than leave my PC un-updated.

Try clean installing with Windows 7 SP1 update already installed via disk.

Microsoft actually gives out direct downloads for Windows 7 via digital river. Burn this DVD or dump it on a USB disk using the Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool.

All of these links include SP1.

Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit: http://msft.digitalrivercontent.net/win/X17-59465.iso
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit: http://msft.digitalrivercontent.net/win/X17-59186.iso
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit: http://msft.digitalrivercontent.net/win/X17-58997.iso

If you're lazy and already started downloading one, all Windows editions actually come with all content already installed as this was a feature introduced back in Vista. If you delete the ei.cfg file, then Windows setup will ask you which edition to install. Alternatively, you can use this tool: http://code.kliu.org/misc/win7utils/eicfg_removal_utility.zip

Of course you cannot delete the ei.cfg file and expect to install Windows 7 32-bit from a 64-bit disk and vice versa.

This is the English version only. If you need another language, post again.

My 3 year old laptop died on me last week.
It suddenly shut off, I guess because of heat excess.
I disassembled it, and found the fan vents clear, so it was not because of dust obstruction.
I think the fan might not touch properly the cpu or whatever, and so the heat is not expelled good enough.
When I try to boot it up, it will turn off after a few seconds/minutes, as it gets hotter.

I have a couple of questions:
1.- What are the chances of the laptop (the cpu or motherboard) being permanently damaged?
2.- What can I do to make the fan stay on its place?


And, extra question: I took the hdd off the laptop to recover some important files I needed.
Problem is, after recovering them, I put the hdd in _another_ laptop. Booted it up ok. But when I went to place the hdd from the second laptop to my laptop, I think I forgot to turn off the second laptop and now the hdd might be screwed: I got a blue screen message saying it was corrupted and what not, and it won't launch Windows.
What can I do with this hdd? Any way to recover it? Formatting it would allow me to use the hdd again (even if I lost all the data)?

Thanks a lot.

Thermal paste worn out.

1. 50/50 Depends how hot the laptop was. Did it burn you?

2. The fan is just there to allow air flow. What about the heatsink? I think you need new thermal paste. You can ask a friend who builds computers if he has any. Be sure to clean off the old thermal paste using Q-Tips and 90% rubbing alcohol.

Windows installations are rarely transferable from computer. The only time I've seen it work was Windows ME (I couldn't believe it myself). You can purchase a 2.5" enclosure of either PATA or SATA. I'm guessing yours is SATA since you said 3 years ago. Does the back of the HD include pins or are there two ports?

 

[FerranMG]

Thermal paste worn out.

1. 50/50 Depends how hot the laptop was. Did it burn you?

2. The fan is just there to allow air flow. What about the heatsink? I think you need new thermal paste. You can ask a friend who builds computers if he has any. Be sure to clean off the old thermal paste using Q-Tips and 90% rubbing alcohol.

Windows installations are rarely transferable from computer. The only time I've seen it work was Windows ME (I couldn't believe it myself). You can purchase a 2.5" enclosure of either PATA or SATA. I'm guessing yours is SATA since you said 3 years ago. Does the back of the HD include pins or are there two ports?

Yep, already bought (and used!) the 2.5'' enclosure. It's a SATA hdd.

The laptop didn't burn me, but it was quite hot.
Will try to get thermal paste from somewhere (it's not really expensive, right? I just did a quick search and it seems to be like 5€).
Thanks for the advice.


(about the transferable Windows installations, I actually put my hdd in 2 different laptops besides mine, and both of them booted up. Didn't think it was so weird. )

 

[clav]

Yep, already bought (and used!) the 2.5'' enclosure. It's a SATA hdd.

The laptop didn't burn me, but it was quite hot.
Will try to get thermal paste from somewhere (it's not really expensive, right? I just did a quick search and it seems to be like 5€).
Thanks for the advice.


(about the transferable Windows installations, I actually put my hdd in 2 different laptops besides mine, and both of them booted up. Didn't think it was so weird. )

Does the BIOS/Manufacturer logo boot screen show?

If it does, I would go out and change the thermal paste. Otherwise, forget about it. Plan a burial service for your laptop. You can probably salvage the wireless card and DVD drive and buy a DVD enclosure to create an external USB DVD drive.

Thermal pastes that I like are the Arctic-Cooling MX-4 and the OCZ Freeze.

 

[BeautifulMemory]

I said TV, not the modem. You said you had a splitter that split your cable line to two, so I assumed that your TV cable and modem cable shared the same coaxial point. Is this not the case? I'm making a big deal out of nothing.



The wiring is a thicker grade than RG-6, so it's new cabling.

All right let's check your signal levels via modem.

Access this link via browser: http://192.168.100.1/

Click the "Signal" tab.

I'll use this guide as a reference: http://www.dslreports.com/faq/3412

Focus on Downstream SNR and Upstream power level as these two factors can cause disconnects. If you clearly see a discrepancy, then yeah, a tech needs to help you out here (duh), but at least now you know what to look for in your signal numbers in relation to your connection quality.



I'm going to say bad splitter, but I don't have that much experience working with Cable connections as I'm more of a DSL person.

As for your router, upgrade to Tomato firmware, but we can do that later as the stock firmware on the WRT54GL is pretty stable.

Thank you so much forv responding, gonna check that when I get home. So you don't think it's the router at all, that's somehow incompatible with the modem ?

Ps just read the bits on TV cable. My bad. I will try that as well

 

[clav]

Thank you so much forv responding, gonna check that when I get home. So you don't think it's the router at all, that's somehow incompatible with the modem ?

I own two WRT54GLs (I assume you gave us the correct model), and they still work to this day.

 

[BeautifulMemory]

I own two WRT54GLs (I assume you gave us the correct model), and they still work to this day.

Yes that's the correct model. What about the modem? But I doubt it since it's better than the crap comcast gives out

 

[ACE 1991]

For some reason my CPU fan stays on whenever I put my PC to sleep. I've done some overclocking, (i5 2500K) so maybe this has something to do with it.

 

[Drensch]

Friend spilled coffee on her laptop. It was powered up too soon afterward. Is it fucked? I get no indication that power is flowing.

 

[CzarTim]

Thanks for the insight, claviertekky. Will do this once I have some time.

 

[Cyrillus]

So, I have an MSDNAA account set up through my college, and I've obtained a Windows 7 Pro key through it, but the download server seems to be fucked at the moment. I'd really like to get this up and running tonight so I can at least start this homework, so I'm wondering, is there any legit (or at least safe) place from which to download the iso? I've debated just torrenting an iso, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance that I get some non-retail iso. Any other options?

 

[Jzero]

So, I have an MSDNAA account set up through my college, and I've obtained a Windows 7 Pro key through it, but the download server seems to be fucked at the moment. I'd really like to get this up and running tonight so I can at least start this homework, so I'm wondering, is there any legit (or at least safe) place from which to download the iso? I've debated just torrenting an iso, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance that I get some non-retail iso. Any other options?

I got my windows 7 key from msdnaa but I can't remember where i downloaded the iso but i wouldn't torrent it if i was you since most are cracked.

 

[Mr Nightman]

So, I have an MSDNAA account set up through my college, and I've obtained a Windows 7 Pro key through it, but the download server seems to be fucked at the moment. I'd really like to get this up and running tonight so I can at least start this homework, so I'm wondering, is there any legit (or at least safe) place from which to download the iso? I've debated just torrenting an iso, but I'm not sure I want to take the chance that I get some non-retail iso. Any other options?

I got mine off of mydigital life, they have genuine 7 iso's for download via direct download links, and you just use your key. I got mine off it, and used the key I got from my school, and it worked great.

 

[Jzero]

I got mine off of mydigital life, they have genuine 7 iso's for download via direct download links, and you just use your key. I got mine off it, and used the key I got from my school, and it worked great.

there you go, this is where i got it.

 

[Cyrillus]

Thanks guys! I'm unsure if a SP1 key will work with a non-SP1 iso, but that link has torrents for the SP1 iso's, so I'll give that a shot!

 

[Jzero]

Thanks guys! I'm unsure if a SP1 key will work with a non-SP1 iso, but that link has torrents for the SP1 iso's, so I'll give that a shot!

it will i just did that like 2 weeks ago. just be sure to update as soon as you can.

 

[clav]

I got mine off of mydigital life, they have genuine 7 iso's for download via direct download links, and you just use your key. I got mine off it, and used the key I got from my school, and it worked great.

Doesn't make sense to link the non-SP1 ISOs when the SP1 integrated ISOs are out.

http://www.mydigitallife.info/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-from-digital-river/

Windows 7 RTM with no SP means more post-installation downloading and wasted time.

 

[Cyrillus]

Doesn't make sense to link the non-SP1 ISOs when the SP1 integrated ISOs are out.

http://www.mydigitallife.info/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-from-digital-river/

Windows 7 RTM with no SP means more post-installation downloading and wasted time.

It's cool, I did find the SP1 ISO's, good seeders on it still as well!

 

[Nelo Ice]

so i just did scan with malware bytes and got thi.

c:\Users\username\AppData\Local\microsoft\Windows\temporary internet files\Content.IE5\7T69TZHD\testbundle23w_1254[1].exe (Trojan.Agent) -> Quarantined and deleted successfully.

im doing another scan with mse in case but i should be in the clear right? malware bytes didnt find anything else.

 

[BeautifulMemory]

claviertekky,

I don't know how, I don't why, but I came home just now and the internet has been working flawlessly. Maybe countless calls to Comcast prompted a tech to look deeper into it. Nevertheless, before finding out about this, I bought a new DUOCSIS 3.0 modem that has the highest rating based on Comast's compatibility list. So fuck it, spent more money, but I hope this is it.

Also, I did a search on Comcast's forum, quiet a few people had the same problem with my previous modem model, which prompted me to shell out more bucks just to get a more future-proof model.

Thanks again for all of your help.

 

[clav]

claviertekky,

I don't know how, I don't why, but I came home just now and the internet has been working flawlessly. Maybe countless calls to Comcast prompted a tech to look deeper into it. Nevertheless, before finding out about this, I bought a new DUOCSIS 3.0 modem that has the highest rating based on Comast's compatibility list. So fuck it, spent more money, but I hope this is it.

Also, I did a search on Comcast's forum, quiet a few people had the same problem with my previous modem model, which prompted me to shell out more bucks just to get a more future-proof model.

Thanks again for all of your help.

Ah. All right.

Side fyi, DOCSIS 3.0 allows the cable modem to utilize a wider range of spectrums, so it allows better stability and faster speeds. It's not deployed in all areas, which is why I'm hesitant to recommend a new modem as that at least is a $100+ purchase.

Nice that you figured it out.

so i just did scan with malware bytes and got thi.



im doing another scan with mse in case but i should be in the clear right? malware bytes didnt find anything else.

If you're super paranoid, run the full scans in safe mode.

 

[Nelo Ice]

If you're super paranoid, run the full scans in safe mode.

normally i would be but i just built this computer a month ago so im hoping everything is working order.

 

[clav]

normally i would be but i just built this computer a month ago so im hoping everything is working order.

Also, check your process list from your Task Manager to see if anything weird is eating CPU cycles or any oddly named programs.

 

[Nelo Ice]

Also, check your process list from your Task Manager to see if anything weird is eating CPU cycles or any oddly named programs.

whew nothing out of the ordinary is showing up. mse is still scanning but dont see anything odd besides the usual window/nvidia/intel etc processes.

btw thanks for help, was worried for a sec that i somehow fucked up my brand new pc.

 

[RoryDropkick]

Ok, I have a question. I bought an OEM copy of Vista 64 back in the day, and upgraded to Windows 7 Ultimate through an upgrade disc. If I have that particular serial number, do I have to go through the process of installing Vista then Win 7 when I redo my box, or could I download a Win 7 Ultimate ISO from Digital River and use that to skip the middleman?

 

[Mr Nightman]

Ok, I have a question. I bought an OEM copy of Vista 64 back in the day, and upgraded to Windows 7 Ultimate through an upgrade disc. If I have that particular serial number, do I have to go through the process of installing Vista then Win 7 when I redo my box, or could I download a Win 7 Ultimate ISO from Digital River and use that to skip the middleman?

install from upgrade disc, and leave the key box empty, then reinstall over it and use the key

 

[clav]

Ok, I have a question. I bought an OEM copy of Vista 64 back in the day, and upgraded to Windows 7 Ultimate through an upgrade disc. If I have that particular serial number, do I have to go through the process of installing Vista then Win 7 when I redo my box, or could I download a Win 7 Ultimate ISO from Digital River and use that to skip the middleman?

http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media

As always, try method #1. Type the key during setup and see what happens.

If that fails, use method #2.

Method #2: Registry hack

Note: This workaround is not supported by Microsoft but my understanding is that it has a 100 percent success rate. If you are nervous that performing this workaround will lead to later complications--unlikely, but not impossible--please use Method #3, below, instead. Method #3 is supported by Microsoft.

Open regedit.exe with Start Menu Search and navigate to:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/Software/Microsoft/Windows/CurrentVersion/Setup/OOBE/

Change MediaBootInstall from "1" to "0". (Double-click it and then enter 0 in the dialog that appears.)

Close RegEdit.

Open the Start Menu again and type cmd in Start Menu search to display a shortcut to the Command Line utility. Right-click this shortcut and choose "Run as administrator." Handle the UAC prompt.

In the command line window, type: slmgr /rearm

Then tap ENTER and wait for the "Command completed successfully" dialog.

Then, close the command line window and reboot. When Windows 7 reboots, run the Activate Windows utility, type in your product key and activate windows.

If it works, you're all set. You're done. Congratulations.

If this does not work, you can try two different things:

First, ensure there are no pending Windows Updates to install. In my experience, some of these can cause this method to fail. Install them and reboot PC. Re-run the command line (with administrative privileges) noted above, reboot again, and re-attempt the activation.

As Nightman already mentioned, if it all fails:

install from upgrade disc, and leave the key box empty, then reinstall over it and use the key

 

[louis89]

Okay I have the weirdest problem.

Ping doesn't work, no matter what I try (domain names, IP addresses, everything times out).

However, I can browse the Internet and make this post. Wtf?

I came across this whilst trying to fix my actual problem - which is that every few hours, my browser will stop working and I can't access web pages (but Skype still seems to work). It will then start working again on its own after about 10 minutes or so. And I can't help but think that the two things are related.

I live in university accommodation so I don't have access to the router or anything. traceroute doesn't work either, but nslookup does. I'm on Windows 7.

 

[Fatalah]

I need an anti-virus program that can protect a thumb drive on the fly. For example, when inserting it into a virus-ridden school computer.

Is there such a thing?

 

[ACE 1991]

install from upgrade disc, and leave the key box empty, then reinstall over it and use the key

This. It's painless. I did it not 5 days ago.