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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Ok, I got a weird one here. I am very proficient with computers (I have a job in the IT sector!) and this one has baffled me for a few days and I have done some research so maybe someone has dealt with this in the past.
When I go in to the System window from control panel where it displays your computer's specs like RAM, CPU, Index Score, and so on, my memory portion says "Installed memory (RAM): 4.00GB (1.99 Usable). Now this wasn't always the case, it never use to say 1.99 usable. CPU-Z also detects that there is 4GB of memory installed, so it sees the RAM. I have tried RAM tests, Memtest and Windows own memory tester and they have shown the stick itself is fine. Apparently when I tried to run memtest again, it doesn't detect the other stick, read on for more info.
Edit: Picture of what I see for reference:
The only answer I saw online was that people said certain chipsets don't support above a certain amount of RAM, but my computer was using all 4 at the start of its life. Here is a list of my parts for reference:
OCZ Gold 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model OCZ3G1333LV4GK.NE
Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor BX80605I7870
GIGABYTE GA-P55-USB3 LGA 1156 Intel P55 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Thermaltake Toughpower XT TPX-775M 775W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified ...
EVGA 768-P3-1362-AR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) Superclocked 768MB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
Intel 320 Series SSDSA2CW120G3K5 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Edit 2: More info after doing some more work! In the BIOS, it shows both sticks there, but doesn't display the 2nd one as "active". Under the timings, this is what is shown for channel A:
This is channel B:
Now, here is a different page in the BIOS showing memory allocation. The first picture is where the modules were before I swapped them in reseating them, etc:
I swapped them to see what would happen and this is the page as of now:
My BIOS also seems to be missing the memory mapping feature, so I can't do that as some may suggest. Also, I already check the maximum memory option in boot settings under msconfig. Any help or tips appreciated.
Lastly, I recently installed new video drivers for my GTX460 and ran a Linux Live CD (Knoppix) so maybe some hardware somewhere is holding it in buffer?
Edit 3: Memtest only tests the active stick, so I can't tell for sure if it is actually working, I guess I missed that one my first passthrough doing memory tests. Windows and my BIOS see it is in fact there, it just isn't enabled. The curious thing though is it followed the module, not the slot.
When I go in to the System window from control panel where it displays your computer's specs like RAM, CPU, Index Score, and so on, my memory portion says "Installed memory (RAM): 4.00GB (1.99 Usable). Now this wasn't always the case, it never use to say 1.99 usable. CPU-Z also detects that there is 4GB of memory installed, so it sees the RAM.
Edit: Picture of what I see for reference:
The only answer I saw online was that people said certain chipsets don't support above a certain amount of RAM, but my computer was using all 4 at the start of its life. Here is a list of my parts for reference:
OCZ Gold 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model OCZ3G1333LV4GK.NE
Intel Core i7-870 Lynnfield 2.93GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor BX80605I7870
GIGABYTE GA-P55-USB3 LGA 1156 Intel P55 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Thermaltake Toughpower XT TPX-775M 775W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Certified 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified ...
EVGA 768-P3-1362-AR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) Superclocked 768MB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
Intel 320 Series SSDSA2CW120G3K5 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Edit 2: More info after doing some more work! In the BIOS, it shows both sticks there, but doesn't display the 2nd one as "active". Under the timings, this is what is shown for channel A:
This is channel B:
Now, here is a different page in the BIOS showing memory allocation. The first picture is where the modules were before I swapped them in reseating them, etc:
I swapped them to see what would happen and this is the page as of now:
My BIOS also seems to be missing the memory mapping feature, so I can't do that as some may suggest. Also, I already check the maximum memory option in boot settings under msconfig. Any help or tips appreciated.
Lastly, I recently installed new video drivers for my GTX460 and ran a Linux Live CD (Knoppix) so maybe some hardware somewhere is holding it in buffer?
Edit 3: Memtest only tests the active stick, so I can't tell for sure if it is actually working, I guess I missed that one my first passthrough doing memory tests. Windows and my BIOS see it is in fact there, it just isn't enabled. The curious thing though is it followed the module, not the slot.
Update: I flashed my BIOS to the latest (F9) that's not a beta BIOS and now the BIOS is showing the timings page correctly for the memory stick in question, but still won't show it as available. I am leaning more towards a faulty stick of RAM now. The BIOS still doesn't have any kind of memory remap feature that I am reading about, grrrr.
Dreams-Visions
Member
Paches - I'd be more concerned about a computer with an i7, 4GB of RAM and an Nvidia 460 scoring only a 5.5 in WEI.
How's that happening, brah? 4200rpm HDD? My fucking laptop scores a 6.9.
How's that happening, brah? 4200rpm HDD? My fucking laptop scores a 6.9.
Update for anyone curious about this issue: It seems it is the RAM stick itself. I tried just booting with the one I suspected was bad and it won't display video, but the mobo lights come up, but with the known working RAM stick the machine boots up properly. I figured this was the issues since the settings in the BIOS followed the module and not the RAM slot itself.
The thing that really threw me off course was that Windows still said 4 GB was "installed", but only 2 GB was available, odd.
The thing that really threw me off course was that Windows still said 4 GB was "installed", but only 2 GB was available, odd.
fellow gaffers i need your help. I need to improve my computer somewhat cause editing RAW files in Photoshop CS5 is a bit slow for me. So i have three things I can do but I can't afford all three:
- upgrade to a faster CPU
- upgrade my ram from 4gb to 8gb
- buy a 60gb SSD.
which one should yield the best results?
My setup is AMD Phenom X4 II 620, Radeon HD 5770 Flex, 4GB PC6400
- upgrade to a faster CPU
- upgrade my ram from 4gb to 8gb
- buy a 60gb SSD.
which one should yield the best results?
My setup is AMD Phenom X4 II 620, Radeon HD 5770 Flex, 4GB PC6400
Ken said:Anyone?
Try using ImgBurn to rip it to an .ISO file, then mount the ISO in a virtual drive (Virtual CloneDrive), then try the install. That would be my first test for a point of failure. If the drive throws it out when you try to rip it to ISO, it's either the disc or the drive. Then make another ISO with a disc that you know works in the drive to confirm which it is.
Edit>I should read guder. I somehow read that as an install error. If the drive won't recognize it at all and it does on other discs, the install media is your cuplrit. Only other way is to test same said media on another PC to see if it works there.
Karak
Gold Member
Issue: Lost .exe file associations for Fruity Loops.
I woke up this morning and tried to mix music and Fruity Loops 9 when I clicked the shortcut nothing occurred. I noticed the icon had changed to a default. I went into the fruity loops folder and instead of .exe files having icons in that 1 folder. they have .dos boxes.
Scanned for viruses using Bitdefender, MS essentials, and Comodo, checked for issues with Malewarebytes and Spybot.
Nothing.
Any idea how to fix that?
I woke up this morning and tried to mix music and Fruity Loops 9 when I clicked the shortcut nothing occurred. I noticed the icon had changed to a default. I went into the fruity loops folder and instead of .exe files having icons in that 1 folder. they have .dos boxes.
Scanned for viruses using Bitdefender, MS essentials, and Comodo, checked for issues with Malewarebytes and Spybot.
Nothing.
Any idea how to fix that?
I just ordered a Lenovo ThinkPad to use for school. This will be my first Windows 7 laptop. Is there any software out there that can enable OSX-esque multitouch trackpad features on these newer systems? The only thing I'm really going to miss about having my Macbook as my primary machine is being able to use a two finger swipe to scroll down webpages.
Can anyone think of a good reason for why my internet connection dies almost EVERY Saturday night for a few hours. It's a big pain in the ass, as all are music are on played from spotify or from a NAS on our wireless Sonos. It starts working again after an hour or two.
Not sure if it's the router (cisco e3000) or the modem. Do some routers have scheduled updates/maintenance that stops the network from functioning?
The network is back up again now, so can't do any troubleshooting to discover what the source of the problem is..
Not sure if it's the router (cisco e3000) or the modem. Do some routers have scheduled updates/maintenance that stops the network from functioning?
The network is back up again now, so can't do any troubleshooting to discover what the source of the problem is..
wolfmat
Confirmed Asshole
I don't know one because I never had that problem, but the task doesn't seem that hard from a technical perspective, so I guess if you check http://www.google.com/search?q=program+for+finding+and+deleting+duplicates you should be okay.
ChoklitReign
Member
Some of my shortcuts in Windows 7 are not working. I can't dock windows with Win + arrow and I can't maximize windows by dragging them to the top. How do I fix it?
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
I have a Vista laptop here that I can't get to boot correctly. It does the standard loading bar (which does take a long time) but rather than let me choose which account I want to log into it just shows one account where it asks me to input a user name and password. I tried one of the accounts but it just says 'The Specified Domain Either Does Not Exist or Could Not Be Contacted'.
I have booted into safe mode and I actually was able to log into the account. I have a recovery disk.
I can just put a new OS on it but i'd like to avoid that if i can.
I have booted into safe mode and I actually was able to log into the account. I have a recovery disk.
I can just put a new OS on it but i'd like to avoid that if i can.
NinjaFridge said:
If you know the name of the laptop try typing:
LAPNAME\Username
Then enter the password, if this works then someone has joined it to a domain (no idea how or why but you may know) - then just right click My Computer > Properties > Somewhere on their just change Domain to Workgroup.
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
Jordan91 said:
Thought of this but it only showed up as in a workgroup when i checked via the safe mode, not sure if it would show up as in a domain.
Started working though for some reason, which is kinda annoying and kinda awesome at the same time.
N
NinjaFridge
Unconfirmed Member
Damnit, not working again. Got a quick flash of the BSOD before it rebooted again, will open it up tomorrow.
My PC has a familiar problem, but I can't make sense of it.
I had an old PC. It stopped booting, I later found out it was a PSU failure.
I got a new PC, where I transferred over only my Radeon HD 5770 and my DVD writer. It had a PSU failure.
I got the PSU replaced and got a surge protector as the problem was an overcharge in the PSU. Problem solved, right?
Yesterday morning, my PC refused to start on first boot, with very familiar symptoms. The PSU seems to be failing slowly again.
Now by power of deduction, there are only two culprits left:
The XFX Radeon HD 5770
The "TSSTCorp CDDVDW SH-203D" DVD drive
One of these two has it in for power supplies, I'd think. I've eliminated practically everything else. But it doesn't make sense to me. Can a graphics card or DVD writer really kill a power supply? I've got power to spare in this one, by the way, it's a 750W power supply.
I had an old PC. It stopped booting, I later found out it was a PSU failure.
I got a new PC, where I transferred over only my Radeon HD 5770 and my DVD writer. It had a PSU failure.
I got the PSU replaced and got a surge protector as the problem was an overcharge in the PSU. Problem solved, right?
Yesterday morning, my PC refused to start on first boot, with very familiar symptoms. The PSU seems to be failing slowly again.
Now by power of deduction, there are only two culprits left:
The XFX Radeon HD 5770
The "TSSTCorp CDDVDW SH-203D" DVD drive
One of these two has it in for power supplies, I'd think. I've eliminated practically everything else. But it doesn't make sense to me. Can a graphics card or DVD writer really kill a power supply? I've got power to spare in this one, by the way, it's a 750W power supply.
Got one driving me nuts.
Got a WD TV Live Hub recently and decided to upgrade the router as well (WD device doesn't support wireless out of the box, so went with a dual band solution to take advantage of the 5ghz streaming).
Hook up the new router and WD TV via wired and no issues seeing it, managing the shares, etc. Then hook up the wireless hub to it and get it all connected to the network, but no machines can see it, nor can it see any machines. All machines are running Win7, which coincidently couldn't see each other when connected to wireless either. Figured firewall maybe, but no luck. Did some digging on the router (DIR-825) and found a NETBIOS setting that someone recommended be on. Turning that on allowed the laptops to see each other, but not the WD TV. Not only that, I couldn't see shares on the other laptops even though I could see the physical device.
Anyone have any luck with wireless sharing that could offer some advice?
Got a WD TV Live Hub recently and decided to upgrade the router as well (WD device doesn't support wireless out of the box, so went with a dual band solution to take advantage of the 5ghz streaming).
Hook up the new router and WD TV via wired and no issues seeing it, managing the shares, etc. Then hook up the wireless hub to it and get it all connected to the network, but no machines can see it, nor can it see any machines. All machines are running Win7, which coincidently couldn't see each other when connected to wireless either. Figured firewall maybe, but no luck. Did some digging on the router (DIR-825) and found a NETBIOS setting that someone recommended be on. Turning that on allowed the laptops to see each other, but not the WD TV. Not only that, I couldn't see shares on the other laptops even though I could see the physical device.
Anyone have any luck with wireless sharing that could offer some advice?
SneakyStephan
Banned
How do I reliably monitor and control my cpu fan speed and cpu temp (phenom II x3 702 BE oc'ed to 3,2 ghz, arctic freezer 7 pro cooler)
My pc has become quite noisy recently, because I wasn't in the mood to deal with it I didn't pay attention to it.
I blamed a gpu driver update upping my idle gpu fan speed to 20 percent (from 12 before), but it turns out that that was just the new firefox update means firefox is using hardware acceleration (at least that seemed to be the problem).
Now I randomly boot up speedfan and see my cpu fan running at 2200 rpm... Which is just retarded for idle speed when it's such a massive heatsink and big fan.
I do remember turning off AMD cool n quiet (a long long time ago)aka the automatic fan throttling , but I don't remember that much extra fan noise after doing it.
Turned fan speed down to 60 percent in speedfan and now it's back to normal, where the only part I can hear of my pc is that useless pos PSU and its fan that came with my Sonata II case.
The fan is only spinning at 1300 rpm now.
My idle temp is now 39-40 degrees celcius (up from 35) which is more than decent and healthy for this OC I assume?
Since speedfan apparently only registers my cpu fan speed (not case fans or gpu fan) ,and shows a borked temp (-128 degrees) for one of my temps (it does properly detect my HDD temp though) I'm reluctant to put much trust into it for controlling my fanspeed.
I'm a total pleb when it comes to this stuff as I've never needed it up until now.
Hence my question at the top =)
My pc has become quite noisy recently, because I wasn't in the mood to deal with it I didn't pay attention to it.
I blamed a gpu driver update upping my idle gpu fan speed to 20 percent (from 12 before), but it turns out that that was just the new firefox update means firefox is using hardware acceleration (at least that seemed to be the problem).
Now I randomly boot up speedfan and see my cpu fan running at 2200 rpm... Which is just retarded for idle speed when it's such a massive heatsink and big fan.
I do remember turning off AMD cool n quiet (a long long time ago)aka the automatic fan throttling , but I don't remember that much extra fan noise after doing it.
Turned fan speed down to 60 percent in speedfan and now it's back to normal, where the only part I can hear of my pc is that useless pos PSU and its fan that came with my Sonata II case.
The fan is only spinning at 1300 rpm now.
My idle temp is now 39-40 degrees celcius (up from 35) which is more than decent and healthy for this OC I assume?
Since speedfan apparently only registers my cpu fan speed (not case fans or gpu fan) ,and shows a borked temp (-128 degrees) for one of my temps (it does properly detect my HDD temp though) I'm reluctant to put much trust into it for controlling my fanspeed.
I'm a total pleb when it comes to this stuff as I've never needed it up until now.
Hence my question at the top =)
Just recently we installed a new power supply for our Dell desktop PC after the previous one died. However ever since, 9/10 times you turn it on it boots up fine but then freezes 5-10 minutes into using it which results in it having to be shut down by holding down the power button which isn't going to do the new power supply much good at all. During this "freezing" you can still move the mouse but clicking is unresponsive. After a forced restart it seems to be fine which is what's really confusing me.
Anybody got any ideas as to why it's doing this?
Thanks.
Anybody got any ideas as to why it's doing this?
Thanks.
Befindlichkeit
Neo Member
Does anyone know how to configure the online accounts feature in Lenovo's bioexcess? I can't link it up to my email for example.
Please help me gaf!
PS, I have tried google
Please help me gaf!
PS, I have tried google
Phantast2k
Member
^
custom firmware (like Tomato) could help you.
Ahh, wtf? All of a sudden I can access some of my porn sites & nzb sites.
Chrome goes: "net::ERR_NETWORK_ACCESS_DENIED", Firefox says something similar.
- None of the websites are down
- Neither Chrome, nor Firefox is blocked by my (windows) Firewall. I even deleted and reentered the permissions.
- My ISP isn't responsible either, since the websites still don't work when enter a neighbor's network (different ISP).
- None of the programs are using proxies, however the websites do work when I enter them through a web-proxy (hidemyass).
- The "hosts" file is in its original state (no entries there)
- my router doesn't have any blocking going on either.
I'm out of ideas..
custom firmware (like Tomato) could help you.
Ahh, wtf? All of a sudden I can access some of my porn sites & nzb sites.
Chrome goes: "net::ERR_NETWORK_ACCESS_DENIED", Firefox says something similar.
- None of the websites are down
- Neither Chrome, nor Firefox is blocked by my (windows) Firewall. I even deleted and reentered the permissions.
- My ISP isn't responsible either, since the websites still don't work when enter a neighbor's network (different ISP).
- None of the programs are using proxies, however the websites do work when I enter them through a web-proxy (hidemyass).
- The "hosts" file is in its original state (no entries there)
- my router doesn't have any blocking going on either.
I'm out of ideas..
PhoenixDark
Banned
While playing SC2, my computer crashed again today. I had gone more than a month without a problem since I last changed some settings and reinstalled by drivers. After hours of attempts I finally managed to get the drivers to update to their most recent (ATI, July 2011). But I still have vertical bars on my computer screen, including in bios. I'm in safe mode right now; I can get into regular mode usually, although sometimes the computer will crash and give me a bsod about infinite loops.
Windows XP
Radeon HD 3870
Windows XP
Radeon HD 3870
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...ootable-CD-USB-Linux..-Point-and-Click-MethodCopernicus said:
What drive did you end up replacing in the CR48? An Intel 310 SSD?
Plasmid said:
Be specific. What kind of Linksys router is it? Most likely the router's RAM is too small to handle the NAT table, and it overflows, causing a crash.
In the future, buy a router that supports Tomato firmware as those routers have a big enough RAM pool to run stable.
Phantast2k said:
My guess would be that you had security software installed (i.e. Norton Security Suite, Mcafee Security Center), and you didn't use the uninstaller tool. The standard uninstaller in these programs actually do a terrible job of uninstalling and can cause weird network problems.
Give these security suite uninstaller tools a try.
Norton (Symantec): http://us.norton.com/support/kb/web...b&selected_nav=&pvid=&docurl=20080710133024EN
Mcafee: http://service.mcafee.com/FAQDocument.aspx?id=TS100507
If you didn't have any security suite software (i.e. third party all-in-one software with Antivirus, Firewall, and Spam filters), then don't bother what I just said.
PhoenixDark said:
Get a new card. It's time to let it the HD3xxx series go.
PhoenixDark
Banned
What would you suggest as a replacement? Not looking for anything fancy, I only play SC2 and WoW, with some TF2 here and there. $150 or under?
PhoenixDark
Banned
I built the computer in 2008
CPU: Core 2 Duo E7200
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115052
PSU: 600w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182032
Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157130
3 gigs of RAM
CPU: Core 2 Duo E7200
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115052
PSU: 600w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182032
Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157130
3 gigs of RAM
Do you plan on riding your setup out until the whole machine dies? It may be time to save up again if you want to do any hardcore gaming with fancy graphics in the near future (i.e. BF3) as your processor is going to be a bottleneck.
I'll assume you're going to be keeping your setup for a while (i.e. 3 more years).
In order from cheapest to most expensive for that budget (any card will be better than the one you have now):
AMD HD 5770 or 6770
AMD HD 6790
AMD HD 6850
Nvidia GTX 460 (do not purchase the SE version)
If you're thinking about upgrading to a new computer, then your upgrade options will be different as in you should consider spending a $200+ graphics card.
If you want a second opinion, post again in the "I need a new PC" thread on the gaming side. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432590
I'll assume you're going to be keeping your setup for a while (i.e. 3 more years).
In order from cheapest to most expensive for that budget (any card will be better than the one you have now):
AMD HD 5770 or 6770
AMD HD 6790
AMD HD 6850
Nvidia GTX 460 (do not purchase the SE version)
If you're thinking about upgrading to a new computer, then your upgrade options will be different as in you should consider spending a $200+ graphics card.
If you want a second opinion, post again in the "I need a new PC" thread on the gaming side. http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432590
PhoenixDark
Banned
Yea, I'm not planning on a full upgrade for some time. My case has space for like 3 fans so it stays cool, and I had been dusting it regularly until recently; so I think it will last awhile, given I don't do just about anything that's demanding; I watch videos, play SC2, do work/homework, forums, WoW, etc. I don't have any plans to get any games on the horizon; Diablo 3 might tempt me, in which case I'd upgrade sooner.
Any card from that list will be better than what you currently have.
I'll leave the decision to you as you will have to decide how much you want to spend.
I think with your setup your processor will get into the way of some things with higher end cards. For instance, I've read a benchmark recently how SC2 is extremely CPU intensive, so for a setup that has a slow processor but a high-end graphics card, SC2 ran a measly 14 fps. A setup with a newer processor ran much better with the same graphics card.
I'll leave the decision to you as you will have to decide how much you want to spend.
I think with your setup your processor will get into the way of some things with higher end cards. For instance, I've read a benchmark recently how SC2 is extremely CPU intensive, so for a setup that has a slow processor but a high-end graphics card, SC2 ran a measly 14 fps. A setup with a newer processor ran much better with the same graphics card.
Phantast2k
Member
Hey thanks! Even though I removed to latest win7 updates before completely removing Malwarebytes & rebooting I think my problems were caused by the latter.claviertekky said:
Never thought Malwarebytes would rape your system as much as those "security suites" do...goddamn
PhoenixDark
Banned
claviertekky said:
I just took my card out and dusted it. Lots of dust on its fan; while I try to dust the computer monthly, I had never taken the card out before until today. I put it back in and booted up: no lines on screen, temps are fine, and the drivers are up to date. After the first crash yesterday I rebooted and had no lines, but it crashed shortly afterward. So I'm still a bit on edge, hoping for the best.
I still plan on upgrading the GPU soon, and I think you've convinced me to get a new CPU also. Although I'm dreading having to attach another heat sink to the mobo lol; that was the hardest thing about putting this computer together (first computer I had ever built).
Cold-Steel
Member
Hey guys, I posted this in the Gaming side but I figured putting it here too would be a good idea since I'm pretty much asking for technical advice:
I don't really care about capacity either and the PS3 only uses SATA 1.5GB/s anyways so obviously I'm not sure if RPMs matter as much but cache size seems to be a very important factor when it comes to PS3 operations.
If someone knows better I'd appreciate any HDD advice I can get.
I don't really care about capacity either and the PS3 only uses SATA 1.5GB/s anyways so obviously I'm not sure if RPMs matter as much but cache size seems to be a very important factor when it comes to PS3 operations.
If someone knows better I'd appreciate any HDD advice I can get.
Cold-Steel
Member
claviertekky said:
Even if the cost difference was relatively minimal between the two, the Momentus XT would still not be worth it then?
So I just got finished with a fresh Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit install and my computer is still doing what it was before.
Basically, at random times, all the programs will stop in their tracks. It doesn't completely freeze, I can still move my mouse and even see the animations in certain programs moving (loading swirly circle in Chrome for example), but everything becomes unresponsive. The only hardware issue I can think of that could do something like this is RAM...does that sound right? I know similar things happen sometimes when secondary hard drives spin up, but this lasts much longer (over a minute sometimes). The computer eventually always gets back to operating condition.
Sound familiar to anyone?
Basically, at random times, all the programs will stop in their tracks. It doesn't completely freeze, I can still move my mouse and even see the animations in certain programs moving (loading swirly circle in Chrome for example), but everything becomes unresponsive. The only hardware issue I can think of that could do something like this is RAM...does that sound right? I know similar things happen sometimes when secondary hard drives spin up, but this lasts much longer (over a minute sometimes). The computer eventually always gets back to operating condition.
Sound familiar to anyone?
Definitely check RAM. You can easily check your RAM by running the Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool.
You can either run it via:
1) DVD/USB Installation Disk: Choose the repair option, and it'll be listed as one of the tools available after the system finds your current Windows 7 installation.
2)Start Menu: Click on the Windows logo and type 'Windows Memory Diagnostic' (without '). Tell it to run the test now which will restart your computer.
Let the test run.
You can see the status of the test if the yellow text changes from "No problems found" to "Hardware problems detected." Alternatively, if you let the test finish and boot the computer back to desktop, a dialog message will appear immediately if your RAM is bad.
Do you do any overclocking?
edit: Thought about this more. Your hard drive dying or a bad sector waiting to be relocated could also be another case.
Either:
1) Run SpeedFan, so it can analyze your SMART table values and compare them to online to see if they are normal.
2) Run HDTune, and paste a screenshot of the SMART table here. Generally, if the values are not in yellow/red color, then your hard drive is OK.
I don't like the design of the Momentus XT. It serves to boot an OS minimally faster, but you still have traditional hard drive components, and people have been complaining about firmware + HD failures about the drive, which makes it no different from a non-hybrid drive.
For your PS3, either choose option A or B.
You can either run it via:
1) DVD/USB Installation Disk: Choose the repair option, and it'll be listed as one of the tools available after the system finds your current Windows 7 installation.
2)Start Menu: Click on the Windows logo and type 'Windows Memory Diagnostic' (without '). Tell it to run the test now which will restart your computer.
Let the test run.
You can see the status of the test if the yellow text changes from "No problems found" to "Hardware problems detected." Alternatively, if you let the test finish and boot the computer back to desktop, a dialog message will appear immediately if your RAM is bad.
Do you do any overclocking?
edit: Thought about this more. Your hard drive dying or a bad sector waiting to be relocated could also be another case.
Either:
1) Run SpeedFan, so it can analyze your SMART table values and compare them to online to see if they are normal.
2) Run HDTune, and paste a screenshot of the SMART table here. Generally, if the values are not in yellow/red color, then your hard drive is OK.
Cold-Steel said:
I don't like the design of the Momentus XT. It serves to boot an OS minimally faster, but you still have traditional hard drive components, and people have been complaining about firmware + HD failures about the drive, which makes it no different from a non-hybrid drive.
For your PS3, either choose option A or B.
Thanks for the tips. The memory checked out okay according to the Windows tool.
My main HDD isn't showing any health information in HDTune. My external is (just for reference that the program is working). That means my HDD isn't SMART capable, right? It isn't terribly old, maybe 2-3 years, and a Western Digital...wouldn't SMART have been standard by then? I'll give SpeedFan a try.
Right now I am using the built in Windows drive error checker, we'll see if that pops anything up. Also simultaneously building a Newegg wishlist on my laptop
I have overclocked this system before, but haven't messed with that for over a year.
My main HDD isn't showing any health information in HDTune. My external is (just for reference that the program is working). That means my HDD isn't SMART capable, right? It isn't terribly old, maybe 2-3 years, and a Western Digital...wouldn't SMART have been standard by then? I'll give SpeedFan a try.
Right now I am using the built in Windows drive error checker, we'll see if that pops anything up. Also simultaneously building a Newegg wishlist on my laptop
I have overclocked this system before, but haven't messed with that for over a year.
claviertekky said:
Stopped working on it and went to sleep (damn internet went down), rebooted and getting Disk Boot Error...pretty sure my main hard drive is going. This is actually the same error that made me reinstall yesterday, though I was wanting to do a clean install anyway.
I have a windows 7 issue that GAF might help me solve? All of my windows aren't full size when expanded. There's always a small band/blank a the top where you can see the desktop and it wasn't like that before. It's a bit annoying. Anyone know how to fix this? I try to manually expand the windows and it doesn't work. Is that an Aero thing?
Pic to explain what I mean.
Pic to explain what I mean.
ItAintEasyBeinCheesy
it's 4th of July in my asshole
Errrr using my work computer I use google to get to GAF just so theirs nothing in the address bar, used it just now and every link I clicked on took me to the NeoGaf Urban Dictionary page. Was pretty cool.